I went for a run today with my Gear S3, leaving my phone at home, so in standalone mode.
Everything was going fine until I stopped and looked at the stats.
I ran short of 10 km in 1 hour 8 min.
The map shows the kilometer markers.
Yet when you look at the distance run, it says 19.02 km!
How the hell does S Health calculate the run distance?
Surely it doesn't use the gps distance!
If you export the gpx file and view it using gps viewer, the distance is correct.
Screenshots from S Health and GPX viewer attached.
Hi Guys,
I am having kind of the same problem ....
I know the distances in the Campus where I run.... I ran with only the Gear S3 on my wrist, the phone left in my car.
While I was running, I knew I had ran about 500 m, but when I looked at the clock, it only sees ~200 m... I got agravated and stopped running ....
If I export to GPX, the distance is correct, the location tracking / waypoints are ~kind off correct ...
So, the bottom line:
- it should have tracked about 500m, only tracked ~200m
- waypoints are a bit off, it shows me running through some buildings
- for the first half of my run, it shows I had 0 km/h ...
I thought maybe I should try running with only GPS, and disable Wireless location?
Unfortunately I can't post images since I am a new user
I've been using it for walks and hikes. It is paired with my Blackberry Priv (an android phone). But the values change when I walk the same route. Since it announces the One Mile point, it is different almost each time I walk the loop. Sometimes it is pretty much the same as other times and others it is definitely off by a block or so.
But I've also been tracking the same walks/hikes/bike rides with other devices and frankly, each shows a different total distance and it can vary by a quarter mile or so. The devices or methods are the Gear S3 Frontier, Nogago Tracks in my phone and a recently acquired Garmin Edge 1000 (bike computer used for walking and hiking, too). Since I don't count on any of them for a survey result, it is okay. But if you are counting on these to help you time your marathon, well, good luck. What is really interesting is that most of them show the exact same track when exported and viewed in Garmin's Mapsource or Basecamp.
Guys, thanks for the replies, but I don't think we're talking about the same thing.
I know the Gear 3 is tracking accurately enough for me, I don't really care about a few hundred meters off result for a 10 km run.
It's when you hit the stop button at the end, S Health suddenly makes a weird calculation for the total distance travelled.
The km markers on the map go nicely up to 10 km, yet it calculates a total distance of 19 km.
evilpharmacist said:
Guys, thanks for the replies, but I don't think we're talking about the same thing.
I know the Gear 3 is tracking accurately enough for me, I don't really care about a few hundred meters off result for a 10 km run.
It's when you hit the stop button at the end, S Health suddenly makes a weird calculation for the total distance travelled.
The km markers on the map go nicely up to 10 km, yet it calculates a total distance of 19 km.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Evil,
Sorry for bullying into your post. It's great your watch tracks distances accurate while running.
My problem occurs during the run, not tracking accurately while running.
At the end of my run it does not change the "final result" in any way, so my problem is a bit different, I will open a different post for mine.
Thanks,
Cosmin
No problem, cosmincebuc!
All sorts of issues with this watch it seems.
Related
Well it seems the GPS on our Captivates has been improving over time due to adjusted Jupiter files, ROM updates, improvements in some leaked builds, and now a new GLGPS Daemon port, etc, but still seeing posts by lots of folks who still have trouble achieving good results. So, while the improvement quest continues, was thinking it might be helpful to have a common scoring or grading system for people to use when reporting on their gps results.
Would appreciate any comments on the usefulness of this, or agreement or disagreement with the descriptions. Just seems to me that currently it is often difficult to know what someone means when they say their GPS is good, best its ever been, or terrible.
(Note - to be most helpful to others please post your grade/results and anything you've done that has improved the gps performance.)
It would go something like this:
Captivate GpsGrade
A Common Way to Report GPS Effectiveness
Grade = A. Description – Performance is excellent at all times and very consistent. Applications such as Maps, Copilot, Google Nav, MyTracks always perform perfectly. Tracks as recorded by MyTracks consistently show the route accurately. GPS Locks are quick – under 30 seconds, and accuracy shows 5 to 10 meters or better as measured by lbstest, or GPS Test applications. When used for navigation, there is no drifting off of the road, no lag, and no overshoot of intersections. In short – its how we would want it to be.
Grade = B. Description – GPS function often works as expected, but occasionally does not. Usually no problem seeing several satellites and get locks within 30 seconds but always under a minute. Navigation apps are usable but sometimes there is a small bit of drift and sometimes will lag or show overshooting of intersections. Tracking via MyTracks is often accurate to the route taken, but sometimes off by a bit. Locks are sometimes lost but the system usually locks on again in just a few seconds. Accuracy often around 30 meters. Its not quite what we would like, but can live with it. Might call it pretty good.
Grade = C. Description – system achieves locks but often takes 60 seconds or longer. Locks are sometimes maintained while moving, sometimes not. Erratic performance. Can sometimes get Apps like Maps and Nav to work, but often have trouble with them or the system shows being on the next road or off the road. Routes recorded by MyTracks show inaccurate performance – route shown is close to the one taken but has occasional gaps with loss of lock. Accuracy is between 30 and 50 meters. In other words, performance may be good enough for location based services to be used, but not too useful for map or navigation functions. Mediocre.
Grade = D. Description – system sometimes gets a lock but cannot maintain lock. GPS Apps are not useable do to poor performance. In GPS Test or lbstest can sometimes see a couple satellites, but trouble getting a fix. Basically the GPS Icon is flashing pretty much the entire time. Awful would describe it.
Grade = F. Description – system does not work at all – cannot get locks, and cannot use any GPS Apps such as Maps or Nav, ever. Its just horrible.
good idea.
The problem with this, is most people have no idea how to properly test anything. For this to have any meaning, all tests should be conducted as follows:
Using multiple devices - not just a Captivate but another phone as well on another run
Not holding the phone in your hand - we know this can cause signal issues
Repeatable routes (testing on the same route)
Driving - walking does not allow for fast enough position change to reveal problems
No other apps running on phone - try to reduce any type of processor or storage contention issues
1. Mount device in car mount in the front windshield - other windows may have tint that interfere with signal reception
2. Launch Google mytracks - start driving after 10 seconds (fixed time for lock - equal for all)
3. Drive route with local and highway speeds and turns
4. Repeat with another device
5. Compare MyTracks recordings
Turn-by-Turn nav is a nice way to view accuracy BUT it has no way to record measurements. Comparing devices with a tool like Googles MyTracks is the only way to show that the captivate GPS sucks or not - maybe other phones suck too in certain environments.
This same methodology should be used before and after any mods as well - otherwise it is all hearsay.
alphadog00 said:
The problem with this, is most people have no idea how to properly test anything. For this to have any meaning, all tests should be conducted as follows:
Using multiple devices - not just a Captivate but another phone as well on another run
Not holding the phone in your hand - we know this can cause signal issues
Repeatable routes (testing on the same route)
Driving - walking does not allow for fast enough position change to reveal problems
No other apps running on phone - try to reduce any type of processor or storage contention issues
1. Mount device in car mount in the front windshield - other windows may have tint that interfere with signal reception
2. Launch Google mytracks - start driving after 10 seconds (fixed time for lock - equal for all)
3. Drive route with local and highway speeds and turns
4. Repeat with another device
5. Compare MyTracks recordings
Turn-by-Turn nav is a nice way to view accuracy BUT it has no way to record measurements. Comparing devices with a tool like Googles MyTracks is the only way to show that the captivate GPS sucks or not - maybe other phones suck too in certain environments.
This same methodology should be used before and after any mods as well - otherwise it is all hearsay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are there actually people that have GPS that is consistently accurate to 10 meters or less? I can't even get a lock like that standing in one spot on a sunny day. If I don't enable wireless networks, my GPS icon will flash forever.
ChaoticKinesis said:
Are there actually people that have GPS that is consistently accurate to 10 meters or less? I can't even get a lock like that standing in one spot on a sunny day. If I don't enable wireless networks, my GPS icon will flash forever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, many of us has GPS that works fairly well. I have had my phone since launch and running the stock GPS config.... it works OK.
My GPS is an A. I got a replacement and has worked perfectly since.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
ChaoticKinesis said:
Are there actually people that have GPS that is consistently accurate to 10 meters or less? I can't even get a lock like that standing in one spot on a sunny day. If I don't enable wireless networks, my GPS icon will flash forever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Results are extremely variable. Your phone sounds like mine. By trial and error I have gotten mine to an "A", but only by doing these four things 1) flashing new ROM - Assonance (5.0), 2) installing Da_g's GPS fix, 3) Removing the rear cover and just using my Bodyglove cover, and 4) when in the car plugging into car charger.
There are other solutions and reported good results from other ROMs and methods, but these are the things that work for me. I have done extensive testing with each of the four items, including MyTracks recordings, to validate the impact they each have. Good luck with yours - it IS possible to get a working system.
Mines grade b at most.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
Where can I get this Da_G fix? I'm using Assonance 5.2 and it works fairly well - about a C+ or B I guess. I tried searching XDA for the Da_G fix and couldnt find anything
PixelPerfect3 said:
Where can I get this Da_G fix? I'm using Assonance 5.2 and it works fairly well - about a C+ or B I guess. I tried searching XDA for the Da_G fix and couldnt find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can get Da_G's fix at the post below. Three options - I have been using the Google version and had good success with it.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=881941
Just got the mission smart watch. Its 100% focused on surf and show out of the box but should have different sensors such as altimeter and thermometer. Any apps out there that supports these sensors?
They definitely marketed it heavily to the surf and snow crowd, too bad it sucks as a surf watch. I got mine on pre order thinking it was going to do all the same stuff as the ripcurl search gps watch. It does not. The only thing it logs is max speed, length of session, calories burned, and total distance. You cannot get the session data off the watch and the watch only stores stats for your last session.
If you have a trace puck, you can use the watch as a remote control for the trace, so you can start and stop recording on the trace itself. When connected to the trace, you can see max speed and total distance nut no other real time data. Other than that, it adds nothing to the functionality of the trace on it's own.
Such a waste of good hardware. This device could easily compete with the ripcurl search with a proper app.
Yesterday I did a second run comparing my S3 frontier with my Polar m400. On the first run of about 13km it was a few hundred meters off.
Yesterday, on a 17km+ run it was more than a km off! Polar measured 17.65 km, S-health 16.46
So I exported the gpx file to get a better view of the tracked route but much to my surprise the data showed a route of 17.64 meters. Only 10 meters different and of course totally acceptable.
So I wonder; how can it be that S-health interprets the same data differently?
On a side note: the map S-health uses is totally unusable for a trailrunner
Which one is your favorite and best app when you go for a run?
I don't use Huawei's own app any more because you can't export data.
I used endomondo when I hade a moto 360, but the app is not optimised for huawei watch 2 and android wear 2.0.
Now I use Ghostracer and Strava.
Ghostracer here too, for both running and cycling.
Coming from a Garmin Forerunner watch, it was somewhat difficult first but now as I'm used to the app and synchronizing the data I wouldn't use anything else.
I use the Huawei app because it's interface is cleaner than Google fits. However, with the Huawei watch app on my phone, it syncs to Google fit just fine, so my data is all in one place. Endomondo was the best but as previously said, it's not optimized for aw 2.0. i only use Google fit directly for weight training.
I have also noticed that for some training apps (Strava, Ghostracer and Huawei app) it is possible to start and stop the activity with the bottom button. Thats nice! It could be that you need to have that app as a shortcut on that button for it to work.
PeterBormioli said:
Ghostracer here too, for both running and cycling.
Coming from a Garmin Forerunner watch, it was somewhat difficult first but now as I'm used to the app and synchronizing the data I wouldn't use anything else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also have a Garmin forerunner. I went for a cross country skiing race for 10 hour and I don't think Huawei Watch 2 would last that long.
I have not tested how long the battery last for training (runnning). I have tested to run for an hour with music, GPS and 4G. About 30 % left then. But with the 4G and music disabled, it should last much longer I hope. For several hours I hope.
I highly doubt the hw2 can go longer than 3-4 hours with everything running.
Devolution1x said:
I highly doubt the hw2 can go longer than 3-4 hours with everything running.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some time a have to test a long run or walk with just gps and heart rate (dont know if external strap or the internal drains less battery) active and se how long it lasts. No music and 4G.
spenstberg said:
Some time a have to test a long run or walk with just gps and heart rate (dont know if external strap or the internal drains less battery) active and se how long it lasts. No music and 4G.
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Click to collapse
With no music and 4g, I believe it can last maybe 8 to 10 hours. I've used only HR and GPS for an hour and the drain was only less than 10 percent. Granted I also use battery setting such as always on but no tilt.
Devolution1x said:
With no music and 4g, I believe it can last maybe 8 to 10 hours. I've used only HR and GPS for an hour and the drain was only less than 10 percent. Granted I also use battery setting such as always on but no tilt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Running for 1h today with no 4G, but google play music offline and connected bluetooth headphones. Battery went from 90% to 58%. So about 30 % down in this case.
Does ghostracer display heart rate for you on the HW2? For me it just says zero all the time. It works with other apps.
Edit: Never mind, just found out you have to enable the sensors in the watch app settings.
powerballad said:
Does ghostracer display heart rate for you on the HW2? For me it just says zero all the time. It works with other apps.
Edit: Never mind, just found out you have to enable the sensors in the watch app settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you in Ghost racer swype to the right, you have "sensors" and there you can turn on and off "Heart Rate" and other sensors. If you have an external Heart rate sensor strap you will se it here also.
If your have your phone on you (unlikely while running, but might while walking), Google Fit will get your GPS location from your phone instead of watch, saving battery.
Devolution1x said:
I use the Huawei app because it's interface is cleaner than Google fits. However, with the Huawei watch app on my phone, it syncs to Google fit just fine, so my data is all in one place. Endomondo was the best but as previously said, it's not optimized for aw 2.0. i only use Google fit directly for weight training.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use the Huawei watch 1 and i ned to sync my data to strava or garmin app so that i can get vitality points with my insurance. How do i make it so that the Huawei app sync data with strava, ghostrunner or garmin so that i can get points from my insurance? I dont want to have to buy a garmin or a fitbit watch.
khakhi said:
I use the Huawei watch 1 and i ned to sync my data to strava or garmin app so that i can get vitality points with my insurance. How do i make it so that the Huawei app sync data with strava, ghostrunner or garmin so that i can get points from my insurance? I dont want to have to buy a garmin or a fitbit watch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe you can just download the strava app directly in the play store on the watch and link it to the app on your phone.
Related question...
Devolution1x said:
I use the Huawei app because it's interface is cleaner than Google fits. However, with the Huawei watch app on my phone, it syncs to Google fit just fine, so my data is all in one place. Endomondo was the best but as previously said, it's not optimized for aw 2.0. i only use Google fit directly for weight training.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm just returned to running after knee injury. Very excited to use the Huawei Watch 2 and intrigued by the VO2Max feature. So I'm using the Huawei watch app which seems to work great. The question i have is about display while running. Next to distance is PACE. While jogging 10:30-11:00 minutes miles, the PACE is displaying anything from 3'43" to 5'45". I can't make sense of it. Its not pace per 1/4 mile or 1/2 mile... And i can't find anywhere to adjust or read about this. Appreciate any feedback!
Same question. But a little different condition.
I just got my Huawei watch 2 yesterday, and it's a BT only version.
And I just realize that it has 3 built in app for running: Huawei's workout, Google fit workout, and runtastic. Can someone explain which one is better between them?
I Found huawei app to be the best from this 3 apps. but strangely it lacks cloud backup so it's big no for me. Your data will be lost if the app would be erased and it WILL happen.
Try to reach huawei support with that matter several time but i only got laconic answers. Huawei - great hardware VERY bad software.
I still use ghostracer standalone all the time because i can connect my bluetooth heart rate monitor with it so i get more accurate readings. On android wear 7.11 i burned around 30 percent an hour with heart rate belt connected, no optical heart rate, barometer on, gps, wifi and lte all on. So i can receive urgent calls during my runs (also to lazy to turn wifi off while not needed).
I was happy with this kind of battery consumption. It was always the same, so i could count on it and i knew i needed to charge prior to my run or not needed.
However since the oreo update came things changed. Suddenly my watch died half way during my runs, and also the runs after that. Now i seem to burn 50 or 60 percent an hour!
I tried deleting and reinstalling the ghostracer wear app, but is still burns way more battery then before. Normal usage seems normal, also on lte. I also noticed that at least once a day i see something downloading related to google TTS.
Today i will go for another run, this time with barometer and other sensors off, lte and wifi.off to see what happens. So far im very dissapointed in the oreo update. I can barely run for an hour or so before getting into trouble, while im training for a 10 miler. Only great thing is the sleep app which is very nice.
Any other ghostracer users experience the same thing?
Does anybody know the units for pacing on Huawei's preinstalled GPS running app? I can't find documentation and it always reads out like 2'50" to 3'30" or so. Even the 3rd party GPS applications seem vague and inaccurate compared to a few Garmin watched I have (as in add 1 to 3 minutes to the pace). Any good ideas or alternative apps?
It's Miles or kilometers depends on your choice.
Don't know if i understood your question but "pace" means how much time in minutes it takes you to run 1Km (or mile)
2'30 means it takes you 2 minutes and 30 seconds to make 1Km (And it also means that you are very fast...)
Sorry if it's obvious and not what you meant.
BTW update on the health app: there is a beta version of the Huawei health app which is far better then the previous one.
Its far more reliable in terms of sync with watch (actually very good as far as i tested it) and finally eliminates the need of the Huawei wear app which is great(!)
You can erase the Huawei wear app after installing the new health app.
Looks like Huawei still care about their app. Shame its still dosent support cloud sync and exporting data. (Export data to google fit is poor and tottaly not aqurate)
Im running like 7km 3 times a week with the watch and
I think it's the best app for running out there (minus the deal breaker cloud sync issue) I used all the big running apps and the health app is my go to running app. Shows the right information in the right time, looks clean and informative and the analysis (vo2max, stride lengh etc) are great.
Hello. I recently started to ride a bike with Strava and track monitoring via watch. I have noticed poor GPS accuracy that makes strava recorded data unusable (max speed >100 kmph, twice more distance due to lost fix...).
Does anyone else observed same issues?
LEO-DLXX (LTE with no sim inserted)
WearOS 1.0
OREO
Hi,
I did not observed this issue on my watch (LTE version). I would event say it is much more acccruate than my phone. But I notice that is not the same in every zone: in some cities, it is OK ans data are usuable, and in others, the GPS is more efficient and I can see which side of the road I was.
Here are some examples of my HWatch2 GPS:
https://ibb.co/iBmcDc
https://ibb.co/fpNHDc
Although I have only used GMaps for navigation, I will say it does give very accurate notifications which has helped me a lot in turning the right turns around 99% of the time compared to relying on only voice navigation on my phone.
Same happens here!
Hi dreamnewbie, Exactly the same thing happens to me, first I thought it was because of the coat, maybe a problem of low signal or the fact of running in the city, some interference by the constructions. after several tests I get to run with short sleeves in open spaces and it's exactly the same, I record the session with the phone and it always measures better, HW2 makes like "peaks" in the route indicating that I got to run at about 40 km/h? !! I do not know if the GPS antenna is very weak or a fault after the upgrade to Wear OS. I love the Huawei propieraty app to run but it is impossible to export workouts to cloud-based services. Regards!
LEO-BX9 (no LTE)
WearOS 1.1
Nexus 6P OREO 8.1.0
Do you guys have a third party watch band? I recently changed the original watch band with a metal one. I noticed the metal interfere with the watches sensors like the compass. Also bluetooth range decreased... i guess i could influence gps reception as well. Now i have the original band installed and no problems. I have the watch for almost a year now and used it a lot for running. Never had any accuracy problems, distance and track was spot on....
I also encountered the same problem. .
What is the version of Strava you are using? Is there any solution?
If there is no way, is there any other application that can be used on the watch and synced to Strava?
ud4x said:
I also encountered the same problem. .
What is the version of Strava you are using? Is there any solution?
If there is no way, is there any other application that can be used on the watch and synced to Strava?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found out that the issue was interference with wireless bike counter - Kross KRC 319WC. After dismounting counter HW2 track recording is OK.