so i dropped my fuze the other day taking it out of the case and when it hit the ground the cover and battery came off and out. i put it back together to inspect the damage and didnt see anything wrong (i was outside at night in a parking lot). when i got back to my house i looked over the phone again in the light and noticed that it looked like my camera lens was all cracked. it turns out that only the square piece of glass in front of the camera was broken and i peeled it off and the camera seems to work fine without it. does anyone know if this affects the lens at all by being exposed and where i might be able to get another square glass cover??? the original one seemed to be glued down so i dont see why i couldnt glue another thin piece of glass overtop of it???
you can probably check out how thick the glass was and then cut off a small piece and glue it down with a normal glue just so it sticks... it's mostly to protect the lens,
yea it has to be 1 mm at most its really small. i'll take it to a camera shop and see if they have anything i can use to fit in where it was. thanks
i dropped my first fuze from a short distance and that little piece of glass broke around the sides. i think its just a noise filter. the camera still worked but there was alot of extra noise which almost seemed to pulse on the image. im taking better care of my replacement fuze.
did att give you a new replacement for free? i think i am just going to hold on to this one and flash it a few times until the fortress comes out sometime at the end of the summer.
so as i sit here drooling over my new inspire I have noticed that it feels like the lens has play in it or something.
am i crazy?
should I call HTC?
This is normal mine does this as well. Its just the design of the phone itself. Remember you have a year warrenty so if the camera breaks it should be covered.
Not entirely true.
While it is indeed a separate part from the actual body of the phone -- any separate part will have some play if you try hard enough -- there are instances of there being too much play, as in, when you move the phone, you can hear it rattle. It will even begin to resonant slightly when you've got a call/other audio going the the external speaker.
I returned my 1st inspire for this reason alone. The csr at the store agreed with me, that that wasn't the way the lens cover was supposed to be, swapped out my phone, no hassle (within my 30 days). The new one has no play in it.
My mom also recently got an inspire, and hers rattled *worse* than my first one did. She returned for a good on as well. There's been other stories, so I think it was a minor manufacturing deficiency with some of these phones.
You shouldn't hear it rattle or be able to jiggle it around with your finger.
It's not a crisis, and it probably won't actually fall off, but if it's lose now, chances are it will get looser before it gets tighter, as time goes on.
Sent from my Inspire using XDA Premium
Scott_S said:
Not entirely true.
While it is indeed a separate part from the actual body of the phone -- any separate part will have some play if you try hard enough -- there are instances of there being too much play, as in, when you move the phone, you can hear it rattle. It will even begin to resonant slightly when you've got a call/other audio going the the external speaker.
I returned my 1st inspire for this reason alone. The csr at the store agreed with me, that that wasn't the way the lens cover was supposed to be, swapped out my phone, no hassle (within my 30 days). The new one has no play in it.
My mom also recently got an inspire, and hers rattled *worse* than my first one did. She returned for a good on as well. There's been other stories, so I think it was a minor manufacturing deficiency with some of these phones.
You shouldn't hear it rattle or be able to jiggle it around with your finger.
It's not a crisis, and it probably won't actually fall off, but if it's lose now, chances are it will get looser before it gets tighter, as time goes on.
Sent from my Inspire using XDA Premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well mine dosnt rattle but if I try to move the lens it will move a little. I've tried out my friends inspire and it had the same thing. Also both of the display units at at&t had the camera move. And the camera is covered by warranty if it wobbles or is loose. I asked
pachkamil said:
Well mine dosnt rattle but if I try to move the lens it will move a little. I've tried out my friends inspire and it had the same thing. Also both of the display units at at&t had the camera move. And the camera is covered by warranty if it wobbles or is loose. I asked
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Click to collapse
I think a batch of the actual lens cover part was machined a little off-spec.
Other webcam type cameras have a removable lens cover, but it and the point mates with on the camera body are threaded, so you can screw/unscrew it, which is what I *thought* might be the case with this phone, until I got tired of endlessly spinning the cover in the hope that it would eventually thread on and tighten. Just kept free-spinning, so I assume its a snap-in/press-fit type.
But yeah, you'll know it if its too loose. It will start to drive you nuts, and you'll start thinking the phone is about ready to fall into pieces.
Sent from my Inspire using XDA Premium
Yes mine too... I didn't push hard actually for obvious reasons... -_-
but definitely I felt like the glass of the camera was prone to sink in the body of the phone...I guess the lens is not hooked to the external cover of the phone... That's normal though
Hi all,
Has anyone successfully replaced the vibrator motor in their Photon Q? Mine went flaky on me for a while, now it doesn't work at all unless I shake the phone while testing it with the little "Vibrator Tester" app, so effectively it's shot. Maybe I weakened it when I did the Simcard mod because it's so close to where the Simcard chip is. I tried messing around with it yesterday with a jeweler's screwdriver, it's not shorting out, it needs a shake or a flip to get it running at all, then after stopping it won't run again on its own.
It doesn't look very easy to replace, appears to be soldered down along both sides pretty good. I figure I can't go at it with hot air or I'll destroy my Simcard mod or something else. I'd just buy another board but the Simcard mod is so darn difficult to do that I'd rather avoid redoing that!
Anyone dealt with this problem before? Thanks in advance for any tips!
Based on the lack of replies after a week it's looking like I was right about there not being a simple/known fix for the vibrator motor in the Photon Q.
I tried this process but it did nothing. I suspect the motor isn't just in need of lubrication, it's probably burnt out.
[GUIDE][TAKE APART] Fix the annoying/bad vibration
Let me ask a different question out of interest - Anyone else living with a vibrator motor that is not functioning right or at all in their Photon Q?
I haven't had a good motor in mine for years. The board I have in mine now works for about 3 times before it dies for about 10 minutes, so I get by with it. However you peaked my curiosity so I attempted to pull one off of a board I had laying around. Surprisingly it came off rather easily! There are only 2 solder points, and I really think you could just dab a little solder on the pads to raise them up and glue new vibe motor on there without needing to solder anything. I may give this a try this weekend just to see if it looks like it's replaceable. They are on eBay but I had heard you had to have a hot air solder station to do the repair. Here's a pic of the one I just removed.
Hi bmccrary,
Thanks for your reply. I was going to attempt to file the motor housing down enough to use side cutters to clip away at it to make the bottom and solder pads a little more accessible, but your picture is very encouraging, makes me think that the cutting will be unnecessary!
They have what looks to be a good fit motor and it's about 15 minutes drive away from me in Santa Clara California, but by the time I found it online it looks like they closed up shop for the US holiday weekend already, so now I have to wait 'til Tuesday.
Vibration - Micro Motor 1.5-3V
Many similar ones are available on eBay but I want it NOW! Well, Tuesday anyway.
Do you mind if I ask you a few more questions in the meantime?
- Is the motor glued down in that rectangular section or soldered?
- What did you do first, break the glue or desolder the contacts?
- Did you clip the contacts somehow before desoldering them?
- How did you break the glue without breaking the board?
All very encouraging so far... Looking forward to hearing back from you! Thanks again.
bmccrary said:
I haven't had a good motor in mine for years. The board I have in mine now works for about 3 times before it dies for about 10 minutes, so I get by with it. However you peaked my curiosity so I attempted to pull one off of a board I had laying around. Surprisingly it came off rather easily! There are only 2 solder points, and I really think you could just dab a little solder on the pads to raise them up and glue new vibe motor on there without needing to solder anything. I may give this a try this weekend just to see if it looks like it's replaceable. They are on eBay but I had heard you had to have a hot air solder station to do the repair. Here's a pic of the one I just removed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
timekiller_9 said:
Hi bmccrary,
Thanks for your reply. I was going to attempt to file the motor housing down enough to use side cutters to clip away at it to make the bottom and solder pads a little more accessible, but your picture is very encouraging, makes me think that the cutting will be unnecessary!
They have what looks to be a good fit motor and it's about 15 minutes drive away from me in Santa Clara California, but by the time I found it online it looks like they closed up shop for the US holiday weekend already, so now I have to wait 'til Tuesday.
Vibration - Micro Motor 1.5-3V
Many similar ones are available on eBay but I want it NOW! Well, Tuesday anyway.
Do you mind if I ask you a few more questions in the meantime?
- Is the motor glued down in that rectangular section or soldered?
- What did you do first, break the glue or desolder the contacts?
- Did you clip the contacts somehow before desoldering them?
- How did you break the glue without breaking the board?
All very encouraging so far... Looking forward to hearing back from you! Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey at least you have a place nearby! :good: I'm in TN with a bunch of cows haha, no motors around here. Ok, this is going to sound over simplified, but all I did was just took a small flat blade screwdriver and pried against the board and the weight attached to the motor shaft. It broke loose without too much force. The rectangular section is just adhesive, there is no solder. The solder joints held on until the motor was lifted 90 degrees off the board, then they just broke off the motor's contacts. However, the pads on the board are still very much intact and they did not lift at all from the board. There is only 2 small solder joints on the whole motor/board combo.
Granted, I'm sure you may want to take a little more care with yours. I didn't care what happened to mine so I just attacked it! However, I think just a little forceful but gentle prying is all that you will need. I hope yours turns out as easy as mine did!
Thanks again bmccrary. I don't think it sounds over simplified, you had to find out it if was glued or soldered somehow. I figured it would be soldered like the sim card chip is underneath, hence my thought that it would need to be clipped to avoid hot air.
Given that it's glued, I don't think there's going to be a better way than the way you went at it. The glue has to be broken through and that's it.
That place in Santa Clara ships, either directly from their site at the link above - $1.95 each + shipping, or you can buy from their eBay listing, lot of 2 for $7.95 shipped.
Vibration Micro Motor 1.5-3V - Lot of 2
I'm really excited by this particular motor design because the way the little legs protrude out a bit, I'm envisioning actually being able to solder this thing in without needing the solder to be completely "underneath" the motor.
Yourself or anyone else following this thread might want to hold off until next week when I can report back on whether or not it worked out. I'll take some photos as I go and, if it's successful, try to post some pics of each step.
bmccrary said:
Hey at least you have a place nearby! :good: I'm in TN with a bunch of cows haha, no motors around here. Ok, this is going to sound over simplified, but all I did was just took a small flat blade screwdriver and pried against the board and the weight attached to the motor shaft. It broke loose without too much force. The rectangular section is just adhesive, there is no solder. The solder joints held on until the motor was lifted 90 degrees off the board, then they just broke off the motor's contacts. However, the pads on the board are still very much intact and they did not lift at all from the board. There is only 2 small solder joints on the whole motor/board combo.
Granted, I'm sure you may want to take a little more care with yours. I didn't care what happened to mine so I just attacked it! However, I think just a little forceful but gentle prying is all that you will need. I hope yours turns out as easy as mine did!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Considering how cheap these handsets are now, why not just buy an entire new phone?
That way you'll have a ton of spare parts and a fresh chassis to continue using
gtmaster303,
Only one reason, but it's a big one. The Simcard mod.
Modifying that board to convert it from being locked on Sprint/CDMA to unlocked Simcard is, at least for me, a very difficult job. I got it done after about 3 trial boards and lots nerve racking fiddling. I'd sooner try to repair the vibrator motor on my existing board if it's at all reasonably possible.
gtmaster303 said:
Considering how cheap these handsets are now, why not just buy an entire new phone?
That way you'll have a ton of spare parts and a fresh chassis to continue using
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All I can say is that I'm looking for a way to replace the half dead vibrator motor on one of my two SIM modified Qs as well...
Hey kabaldan,
Come back here mid next week and I should have an update on my progress by then. I'm eager to give it a go!
The shop I've got my eye on here locally in the US would charge you a fortune to ship to Europe, but there is at least one Asian seller on eBay that's selling these same "protruding leg motors" pretty cheap w/ free shipping:
5pcs ultra-micromotor 4*5MM mini motor vibration motor rotor of motor DC 1.5- 3V
Hold off 'til next week though, I want to confirm it's a fit before anyone else takes this as a recommendation.
BTW. I'm waiting anxiously for an update from you w.r.t. Marshmallow in the "CyanogenMod 12.1 for Photon Q (Android 5.1)" thread!!
kabaldan said:
All I can say is that I'm looking for a way to replace the half dead vibrator motor on one of my two SIM modified Qs as well...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could also use Vibrating motor from old Nokia phones as replacement. Cornholio wrote about it. Somewhere in SIM card mod thread. I did this replacement 2 years ago and motor is working properly since than. I have used motor from Nokia 2610.
Thanks for the hint ---UFO---! No amount of searching I was doing was coming up with anything, but include the word Nokia in the search and the thread page comes up top in the search results!
Good News !!! SIM CARD MOD IS HERE !!! (Page 117 - discussing vibrator motor)
And he's got photos even, about half way down this page are the vibrator motor related pictures:
Photon Q Vibrator motor replacement with Nokia motor
The Nokia motor looks very close but clearly different than the Motorola Photon Q original. I have a feeling the Photon Q ones were very poor quality with a low MTBF.
I'm still going to have a look at the motor that has those protruding legs first. If it's going to be a fit, I'm going to try the prying method first. I want to avoid any further use of hot air on my Simcard modded board. Especially seeing as szegi2 says it took 400C of hot air to get it out, yikes!
More soon from me...
---UFO--- said:
You could also use Vibrating motor from old Nokia phones as replacement. Cornholio wrote about it. Somewhere in SIM card mod thread. I did this replacement 2 years ago and motor is working properly since than. I have used motor from Nokia 2610.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay folks, I replaced the vibrator motor in my Photon Q today. Not my finest hour for sure, but it's done and I think it should last me a good while anyway. I'll walk you through my experience here with some photos.
First, here's the replacement motor I bought from the links I provided in my previous posts in the thread. It's considerably longer, but there's room for it with some cutting of the inner case:
I decided based on a second look at bmccrary's photo to not go with the raw prying approach. I attempted to snip away at the rear end of the motor to gut it first. Unfortunately, instead of chopping the pins out while they were still straight and attached the the board, I bent the black plastic piece securing the pins and I broke one of the two pads. If you're going to use this approach, I now know that what you need to do is carefully chop the black plastic on the motor away from the pins without having those pins bend around very much, then you'll want to heat the pins and desolder them. Otherwise you run the risk of losing a pad like I did.
My heart sunk as I figured I'd never get the darn thing working in that condition. But I forged on anyway just incase it could possibly work somehow.
By using side cutters to snip away all the sides of the old motor, I was able to apply a soldering iron to the base of the old motor. I couldn't entirely desolder it this way, but the solder weakened as a result and the same side cutters lifted it up with very little effort after some heat was applied.
Well, I figured, in theory, I have a 50% chance of having the power pad and I'm missing the ground. So I soldered up the one pin I could, powered up the phone, and grounded the pin without a pad with a test wire. Sure enough, the motor ran when prompted to do so! And so I soldered in a ground wire to that pin on the motor. Some small mercy I lost the pad that was possible to replace without soldering a wire to the tiniest component imaginable!
The padding under the vibrator wheel needed to be chopped away a bit to allow it to spin freely. Then I used some "E6000" glue to secure the motor a bit to the circuit board along the bottom edges.
The inner case needed some trimming in order to accommodate the larger motor.
There it is in its new home.
And finally, I little video of the new vibrator motor in action:
Replacement Vibrator Motor in Motorola Photon Q
Okay, so in the end, had I not broken the one pad, the job would have been a lot quicker and enjoyable. So I have to recommend against raw prying because you're really taking your chances with that, and if you're going with the chopping technique, you must find a way to destroy the black plastic piece holding the pins without stressing the pins to the point where the pad breaks.
Maybe someone who understands electronics better than I do wouldn't mind to explain the risk I'm running bypassing the SMD component that leads to ground on that pad I lost. I'm not sure if it's a diode, resistor, or capacitor, but a continuity check did show that pad running to something of that sort.
Thanks to everyone that provided hints!
timekiller_9 said:
Okay folks, I replaced the vibrator motor in my Photon Q today. Not my finest hour for sure, but it's done and I think it should last me a good while anyway. I'll walk you through my experience here with some photos.
First, here's the replacement motor I bought from the links I provided in my previous posts in the thread. It's considerably longer, but there's room for it with some cutting of the inner case:
I decided based on a second look at bmccrary's photo to not go with the raw prying approach. I attempted to snip away at the rear end of the motor to gut it first. Unfortunately, instead of chopping the pins out while they were still straight and attached the the board, I bent the black plastic piece securing the pins and I broke one of the two pads. If you're going to use this approach, I now know that what you need to do is carefully chop the black plastic on the motor away from the pins without having those pins bend around very much, then you'll want to heat the pins and desolder them. Otherwise you run the risk of losing a pad like I did.
My heart sunk as I figured I'd never get the darn thing working in that condition. But I forged on anyway just incase it could possibly work somehow.
By using side cutters to snip away all the sides of the old motor, I was able to apply a soldering iron to the base of the old motor. I couldn't entirely desolder it this way, but the solder weakened as a result and the same side cutters lifted it up with very little effort after some heat was applied.
Well, I figured, in theory, I have a 50% chance of having the power pad and I'm missing the ground. So I soldered up the one pin I could, powered up the phone, and grounded the pin without a pad with a test wire. Sure enough, the motor ran when prompted to do so! And so I soldered in a ground wire to that pin on the motor. Some small mercy I lost the pad that was possible to replace without soldering a wire to the tiniest component imaginable!
The padding under the vibrator wheel needed to be chopped away a bit to allow it to spin freely. Then I used some "E6000" glue to secure the motor a bit to the circuit board along the bottom edges.
The inner case needed some trimming in order to accommodate the larger motor.
There it is in its new home.
And finally, I little video of the new vibrator motor in action:
Replacement Vibrator Motor in Motorola Photon Q
Okay, so in the end, had I not broken the one pad, the job would have been a lot quicker and enjoyable. So I have to recommend against raw prying because you're really taking your chances with that, and if you're going with the chopping technique, you must find a way to destroy the black plastic piece holding the pins without stressing the pins to the point where the pad breaks.
Maybe someone who understands electronics better than I do wouldn't mind to explain the risk I'm running bypassing the SMD component that leads to ground on that pad I lost. I'm not sure if it's a diode, resistor, or capacitor, but a continuity check did show that pad running to something of that sort.
Thanks to everyone that provided hints!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel like the Photo Q is one of the very few devices that gets hardware modded by its owners. The only other phone I know is the Xt910/912 changing from razr to razr maxx
BlueEditionE6,
It's all about the physical keyboard combined with the ability to run a very resent OS release. If one of the device manufacturers would put out a half way decent new device with a physical keyboard, you'd likely see most of us stop this insanity of hardware hacking this device.
I'm glad you got the new motor installed! I'm going to go ahead and order a couple and give it a go myself. I pried from the shaft end of the motor, and it simply bent up the contacts on the motor without pulling off the pads, but maybe I was lucky. I will have to be more careful with the board I actually use!
Thanks for all of the detailed pictures and efforts! I'm glad putting in a new motor isn't such a scary thing to do anymore! I'll let everyone know how mine turns out. I'm also making a back cover with some bondo to cover the mugen power droid 4 battery that I installed.
bmccrary,
I think you did in fact get lucky with that board. You're as likely to pull off both pads as you are to succeed a second time with only brute force prying. My advise is to file/cut a bit until you can use side cutters to cut the black plastic piece clean through without bending it. Once you've freed up the pins you can pry the rest out if you like, though I think your new motor won't sit in place quite as nice if you have an uneven surface from breaking the top layer off.
One other thing you should know that I didn't mention - if you're using the same motor that I did - those legs on the back of the motor that create the protruding pins are just soldered on to the motor. I had one fall off on me while I was trying to solder it to the board because all that's holding the leg on there is solder! Luckily I was able to get it back on, but what a PITA on top of an already difficult problem. You might be wise to glue the new motor down first and then use tweezers to make sure that leg stays on the motor as you solder it down.
Good luck with it, let us know how you make out.
Vibration motor replacement
FWIW, I replaced the dead vibration motor in my Photon Q. Could not find the exact part but used the following part from cellphonerepairshop.com:
Original Motorola Vibrator Motor Part # 59002313001 for Sprint Photon 4G MB855
This is identical to the Photon Q motor except for a slightly longer rotor, so I had to take care to mount it slightly back on the pads so that the rotor did not hit the PCB... and cut away the plastic slightly (but not as drastically as the OP did).
Carefully wrapped motherboard in tinfoil (AFTER removing SD card and SIM [I have a SIM modded Photon Q]) and used hot air to remove and replace. Worked perfectly first time, no damage or issues. If you don't have the tools to do this yourself, your local cell phone repair shop can do it in a few minutes (assuming you already disassembled the phone). I was a little worried the hot air would damage the plastic keyboard membrane, but it was fine.
Hope this helps anyone needing to replace the vibration motor in their Photon Q.
Well after a few minutes cleaning the top speaker grill lightly with a tooth brush, anti-bacterial / disinfectant i was shocked that the thing just fell off
iStasis said:
Well after a few minutes cleaning the top speaker grill lightly with a tooth brush, anti-bacterial / disinfectant wipe i was shocked that the thing just fell off
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does anyone know if this would be fixed under warranty and if not the best way to restick it down?
I would try heating up the glue and sticking it back down.. heat gun would be best.. just be careful of how much you heat it up. Also.. in the future I wouldn't use a toothbrush. You maybe pushing dirt down into the grill. Something like silly putty might work better. I meant to add that when I get mine, I'm going to try a car/electronics attachment that came with my shark vacuum. It has tiny hose parts that might be able to suck debris out of the grill instead of pushing it down in there. I think they sell attachments like that for small shop vacs and other vacuums but I'm not sure.
DOTC said:
I would try heating up the glue and sticking it back down.. heat gun would be best.. just be careful of how much you heat it up. Also.. in the future I wouldn't use a toothbrush. You maybe pushing dirt down into the grill. Something like silly putty might work better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tip the 1st few times i used a softish toothbrush and was ok, silly putty ive seen aimed for tech stuff and more jel like would work better i think next time and had used the tooth brush before ok i just think i removed the adhesive bond when cleaning it with the wipes as the phones not been expose to any heat for it to warm up enough for the grill to slide off.
Fingers cross Razer would good will a return / repair for me as now the speaker is a bit tinny and while holding the plastic tightly to the phone its not great abover 70% volume level but looking at the speaker grill in the middle its torn away a patch. This maybe to allow the sound out as it was a neat cut in the material thats left. Still wouldnt want to superglue resin (self repair) it until razer come back and say if they will fix it for me or not.
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape-Clear/dp/B00HD27UJC
This stuff would be good.
Cheers i did compile a post and closed the wrong tab went away from my desk. Im waiting for someone in Razer to agree to the repair under warranty but if not ill be getting some tape hopefully i can find some thin and strong enough to go between the plastic thats come off and the non sticky adhevsive tape thats still there. Im not 100% sure if i should tape around the little square cut out or not. i was thinking small path between the left edge and camera/sensor and then a small bit to e right between camera and the torn away patch and then the last strip to the right of the pacth. its odd the patch is thereand its alot thiner than the rest of it.
Applying some pressure to the patch part i can only assume its the speaker as when covering it up the phones quiter. just unsure why its a patch? when playing last night with the bit that fell off theres some vibration so thinking where the patch is i just secure it down with the tape where i can.
Also may get a screen protector to remove the lip between the screen height compared to the plastic that fell off as this is not smooth and is a little sharp. - I may flag this with razer as a design flaw which could have lead to the problem as if it was sunken down it wouldnt have moved out of place
Something like this almost seems better. https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-C...&sr=8-4&keywords=cleaning+gel#customerReviews
Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards
Maybe these vids from JerryRigEverything can help you out.
Good luck!
Sent from my HTC U12+ using XDA Labs
https://tinyurl.com/htcu12
Just replaced mine
majomathes said:
Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just replaced mine yesterday and it was more difficult than any other one I've done in the past. Anyway I never found one single video on YouTube that showed the screen removal and pretty much had to play it by ear. There are a few videos that show the disassembly of the U12+ and each stops before removing the screen. My advice is to remove everything from the frame, I managed to piece together enough from the videos to know there are 15 screws to remove, one video said 14 but there's one more that's hidden until you've gotten under the motherboard holding the front facing cameras. Knowing I wanted to keep it simple I didn't remove all of the antenna wires, there's one at the bottom that's under the speaker cover that I left attached so I only disconnected it from the motherboard. Then the other I only disconnected near the vibrator, leaving it connected at the motherboard, so each piece had one wire that stayed connected. Meanwhile you'll have to undo every other plug on the device and with a little persuasion everything fell out. (Don't attempt to remove the button/pressure sensing strips along the sides!) Once you are down to the frame, and for me the ear piece speaker, I used a heat gun to soften the bond between the glass and the frame. It doesn't loosen up very easily, they are really bonded together. I got most of it and then began to chip away at the broken glass. You'll want a good heat gun for this part. I had to set mine to 300F to really get it to loosen up and then work mm by mm around the edge getting all of the glass and glue out of the track. This probably took me a half hour or more. I used E6000 glue but only because I would have had to order B7000 or any other recommended glue. E6000 is a good glue but just because many of the other videos I watched used B7000 I would have liked to use it too.
To install the new screen I used a syringe filled with my glue to follow the small glue track around the edge of the frame. Don't worry about squeeze out because this glue is very forgiving and wipes away easily with IPA Alcohol and a rag. I followed the old glue placement, adding a little extra near the bottom corners and a dab around the ear piece speaker holes. Then it's just reversing the process to assemble the electronics. Now here is another word of warning, the plugs are so small and some are not easy to align but be sure they snap into place and are flat when installed. I made the mistake of not getting the display plug flat and had to do a partial disassembly to correct the issue.
I didn't glue the back on but think I might today just to try and achieve the waterproof level the phone shipped with. You may have to glue yours but I had previously broken the back and already replaced it and the replacement came with a double sided adhesive strip that was still pretty sticky. If I remember correctly the original back was glued on and probably wouldn't have stuck if I had tried to just replace the back as I did.
One other note. After being disassembled and pulling the battery my finger print scanner didn't want to work. In fact it didn't even show up in the menu when I went looking for it but restarting the phone again caused it to show up. My advantage with the double sided adhesive was I was able to test everything and use the phone for a full day before committing to gluing the back on. Now that I know everything is working, the phone is charging and it all seems good I can glue the back on.
Best of luck