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Holster Charger ideas! Very cool.

I have a great idea!
There is a ton of these VPX power inverters (from Black and Decker) at my local store discounted to $3.50. The battery packs contain 2x A123 lithium batteries in series. i have taken the inverter apart when i got it home and behold, a 5 VDC voltage regulator with usb connector on a separate, removable board.There is 4 solder points that can be easily removed and the complete module will come off.
I was thinking of hacking up some form fitted "slots" whereas you put your phone in your holster and it starts charging. Just look at the attached image.
If enough people are interested I may start custom making these...

If I'm going to be building these I would want to make my own electronics to cut down on cost. Would a voltage regulator or diode/resistor setup be more efficient?
1. Input 9VDC, Zeiner Diode + resistor steps down to 5.1VDC
2. Voltage Regulator [Variable VDC] - 5VDC

Need some help with otg + charge mod

Dear XDA, i really need your help,
I am planning to make this (see thubnail)
i want to make a custom case for my htc one s. (I know it will be a little bigger but that's ok)
I want to charge my phone using a usb cable or a micro usb cable, and at the same time doing OTG. I don't know what resistor i will use yet (tips?)
Also add an extra battery. It is an old phone battery. So if i want to charge from the battery i need to stop the solar cell and guide the electricity through the 5v regulator to charge. What ya think?
I am new to modding so please comment cause i need a lot of help to make this one succeed!
Greetings, pro-one1000
sent from htc one s ville

Don't mean to be negative but I see a couple issues right of the bat. First, where are you going to get a 5 volt charger? I would guess most dc chargers are going to be 12, 24, or 36 volts. I don't think they'll run on significantly less. The solar panel is only going to output about one half of one watt. Assuming no friction loss or inefficiencies that would hardly slow your phone's discharge.
If you want to power the phone and hub I would suggest a small sealed lead acid battery. They're available in 12 volts in many sizes. Easily enough power to keep phone totally charged. Will work with cigarette lighter car chargers so you won't need to customize that part. Depending on the size it'll last a week to a month non-stop. Unfortunately, it probably won't fit in your pocket but if you carry a book bag or briefcase you could hide it there... I use a battery like this at work when I'm using a lot of phone battery and moving around too much to plug in.
Good luck with which ever route you choose!
Sent from my HTC One S using xda app-developers app

thanks
lampel said:
Don't mean to be negative but I see a couple issues right of the bat. First, where are you going to get a 5 volt charger? I would guess most dc chargers are going to be 12, 24, or 36 volts. I don't think they'll run on significantly less. The solar panel is only going to output about one half of one watt. Assuming no friction loss or inefficiencies that would hardly slow your phone's discharge.
If you want to power the phone and hub I would suggest a small sealed lead acid battery. They're available in 12 volts in many sizes. Easily enough power to keep phone totally charged. Will work with cigarette lighter car chargers so you won't need to customize that part. Depending on the size it'll last a week to a month non-stop. Unfortunately, it probably won't fit in your pocket but if you carry a book bag or briefcase you could hide it there... I use a battery like this at work when I'm using a lot of phone battery and moving around too much to plug in.
Good luck with which ever route you choose!
Sent from my HTC One S using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply!
First about the charger, i will use my 5v 1amp charger (micro usb) or an usb male to male usb cable from my pc to charge. So i'll be able to get a charger.
You're i think right about the solar panel, i need to find a better one indeed, trying to get one cheap on ebay! If i try to search for a "smal sealed lead acid battery" i get 40 dollar + big cases of batteries, could you please give a example in the form of an ebay-link?
Anyway thanks a lot and when i have ordered the parts i will try to upload the stuff!
Greetings

I'm assuming the 5v charger you're talking about it a car charger; which means it would have an input voltage of 12 - 14 and won't run on 3.7 (and even if it could run on the lower voltage the amperage would go up dramatically draining the usable power in the battery in minutes. And I wouldn't connect anything to a USB port for two reasons: first, if you connect two batteries in parallel (red to red and black to black) and they're not identical one will usually drain the other as they try and equalize (unless you isolate them from each other). Second, I don't think most USB ports (USB 3.0 i believe has provisions to receive power) are designed to receive power on a computer and your schematic doesn't include anything to prevent back feeding power to the computer.
There are many solar chargers I've seen that would give you the output you need - I've seen them designed to trickle charge RVs, boats, cars, and motorcycles - but I think they would be way to larger for what your looking for.
And I guess I should clarify what I meant by small... Was a bad choice of words for a cell phone forum, I guess. I meant small relative to other lead acid batteries; i.e. car or boat batteries. This is similiar to what I use:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12VOLT-5AMP...US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item589ef11aed
Attached is a pic of my batteries and the adapter that gives me a cigarette lighter type receptacle. And I use a spare motorcycle float charger to keep them charged. And because they're 12 volt batteries they'll power and accessory that is designed to run in a car.
I guess I should probably have asked what is your ultimate goal? And do you carry anything where you could stash the battery?
giesse1996 said:
Thanks for your reply!
First about the charger, i will use my 5v 1amp charger (micro usb) or an usb male to male usb cable from my pc to charge. So i'll be able to get a charger.
You're i think right about the solar panel, i need to find a better one indeed, trying to get one cheap on ebay! If i try to search for a "smal sealed lead acid battery" i get 40 dollar + big cases of batteries, could you please give a example in the form of an ebay-link?
Anyway thanks a lot and when i have ordered the parts i will try to upload the stuff!
Greetings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Thanks for your reply,
After thinking I want to use a second1-5 volt boost regulator attached a small high capicity battery of 3.7 volt. (like a galaxy sIII battery or something. So if i put the switch to on the extra battery should charge with 5v my phone battery. Or i could charge my phone directly from a high efficient solar cell with 5v.
I indeed have no idea how to prevent backfleeding. Do I need diodes / light emmitting diodes for this? And indeed the batteries you mentioned are way to big. I am planning to use an old battery from an other phone with the 5v boost regulator mentioned above. Further i don't understand where you see a computer in my scheme?
Your mod ( i think i it deserves that wonderfull name) with the 12v battery is a good idea. Very handy when going out without a charge point. I usually go to school and am probably able to put the large battery in there, but as i mentioned i want to keep it a "phone case".
My ultimate goal is to make the tiniest possible case for the htc one s ville with,
- a very small usb hub 4 port for 3 female ports and inside a micro sdhc memory for more storage.
- Add the charge ability, so i don't need to take the phone out of the case to charge
- be in otg mode and charging mode at the same time (i guess the hardest challenge)
optionary:
- Add a battery so when i get the actual phone out of the case the solar cell can keep providing power to the battery
- Add a solar cell
- make it actual work with multiple switches
Really appreciate your help!
Greetings,

I misunderstood "First about the charger, i will use my 5v 1amp charger (micro usb) or an usb male to male usb cable from my pc to charge" to mean you might have a computer available to charge. I guess you just meant the cable itself. Understood.
I'm not an electronics expert by any means but yes I believe diodes will prevent the current from flowing in an undesirable direction but they won't prevent one battery from draining another. Two batteries connected in parallel can drain each other and the diode will slow that but I don't think it will eliminate it. Might be able to mitigate the affect by opening one of your switches when the auxiliary battery is not in use. When two batteries are wired in parallel they are frequently connected to an isolator that has three terminals (for a two battery setup). Terminals one and two go to batteries one and two and terminal three goes to the system it's connected to. Batteries one and two never 'see' each other and therefore cannot affect or drain each other.
Not sure I have anything else that can really help... GOOD LUCK! And post pics and details if you build a working prototype.

Thanks again!
I'll try to order a couple extra diodes with low consuption, that plus the switches will hopefully do the job. I ordered yesterday the parts out of China, so it'll take a month to get it in my hands. Now I have more time to consider how it can be assembled all together, but if i get anything i will post it directly!! If it works i may try to make a tutorial for other people so they could also enjoy more ports on their phone!
Greetings

Dual Battery mod help :))

i am attempting to disassemble my p6800 if time permits and mod ito to accomodate another battery thingking of buying 2 new
3.7V, 5,100 mAh Li-Ion battery (SP397281A)
then fully charging them then connecting them both as the original battery is a 1s2p model and the connector has 5 wires does anyone with expertise in batteries help me to wire them up ?? thnx in advance )

geogetski666 said:
i am attempting to disassemble my p6800 if time permits and mod ito to accomodate another battery thingking of buying 2 new
3.7V, 5,100 mAh Li-Ion battery (SP397281A)
then fully charging them then connecting them both as the original battery is a 1s2p model and the connector has 5 wires does anyone with expertise in batteries help me to wire them up ?? thnx in advance )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no expert with Li-Ion batteries, but I do know you can connect two batteries in parallel to combine their capacity (Two 5100 mAh = 10,200 mAh). If you connect them in serial you will have the same capacity but double the voltage (Two 3.7v = 7.4v). When you combine them in parallel, I think you would need some kind of balancing circuit between the batteries and the device. That kind of thing is popular in the Remote Control world - as in remote control cars and planes and such. You might try asking about it in an RC forum.
However, when I look at the sticker on an OEM battery (on ebay) it is marked 1S2P. Which means the battery is already 2 cells in parallel (each 2,550 mAh). That is good news, since 1S battery combinations do not need balancing circuitry. You'd essentially be making a 1S4P. That means you need to connect all of the batteries + terminals to one bus and all the - terminals to a separate bus. You would need to do that before the Li-Ion charge-protection circuitry. So you'd have to peel apart the battery cover and see how they're wired up underneath. You _MIGHT_ be able to wire them together at the 5-wire connector, but that would be iffy, and I wouldn't risk damaging such expensive batteries and/or tablet.

Tom2112 said:
I'm no expert with Li-Ion batteries, but I do know you can connect two batteries in parallel to combine their capacity (Two 5100 mAh = 10,200 mAh). If you connect them in serial you will have the same capacity but double the voltage (Two 3.7v = 7.4v). When you combine them in parallel, I think you would need some kind of balancing circuit between the batteries and the device. That kind of thing is popular in the Remote Control world - as in remote control cars and planes and such. You might try asking about it in an RC forum.
However, when I look at the sticker on an OEM battery (on ebay) it is marked 1S2P. Which means the battery is already 2 cells in parallel (each 2,550 mAh). That is good news, since 1S battery combinations do not need balancing circuitry. You'd essentially be making a 1S4P. That means you need to connect all of the batteries + terminals to one bus and all the - terminals to a separate bus. You would need to do that before the Li-Ion charge-protection circuitry. So you'd have to peel apart the battery cover and see how they're wired up underneath. You _MIGHT_ be able to wire them together at the 5-wire connector, but that would be iffy, and I wouldn't risk damaging such expensive batteries and/or tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thnx for the reply still studying how to wire them )

geogetski666 said:
thnx for the reply still studying how to wire them )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, how did it go? Did you make it work?

Any improvement?
I have a Chinese tablet. planning to add 'mobile' battery in parallel . But i am worried about recharging them. Does the inbuilt circuit controls the recharging the battery?

"Genuine" Samsung Chargers - How to spot a fake

My Samsung charger died recently so I tried to replace it with this one from ebay. As soon as it arrived I could tell it was fake but thought I'd share what I found so that others can see what to look out for.
The main giveaways were:
Lettering is poor quality - an official charger has a very high resolution print screen and parts of the letters are not missing.
Poor build quality - the earth on does not move up and down properly.
Use of Philips screws - the official charger uses torx screws.
Quick Fast Charging - Samsung have never used this branding.
I then decided to take both chargers apart to see how different they were. I've attached the pictures, the genuine charger is on the left and the fake is on the right. It's amazing how much difference there was between the build quality. I managed to pop the back off of the fake charger with not too much force but I really had to pry open the genuine one before it eventually gave in. Once the back was off, the PCB in the fake charger slid out really quickly but I had to prise the genuine PCB out, which is why there is a bit of damage to the USB port.

IMO the easiest way to check charger without disassembly it is:
- Checking the letter for typo/the ink are too bold/ you can feel the letter with your finger then it's a fake one
- Check for the USB contacts, official charger usually gold plated
- Check for weight, fake charger use fewer component => fewer weight
- Official charger did have a circuitry built in to make it work with Fast Charging capability device, meanwhile the fake charger are not, obviously it will not able to do the Fast Charging
For the electrical safety:
- On the fake charger, the secondary (USB) are not having enough clearance to the mains side (240v), this could leads to your phone get fried if there is a high voltage spike in the mains causing it to arcs over and you could risk the life of yourself if you're touching the metal parts on the phone, you can clearly see the 8th image of the official charger having a plastic separation between the secondary side and primary side to prevent such arcing occurs.
- Transformer of official charger use 2 layer insulation (magnet wire with a rubber sleeve, you can see the secondary winding of official charger coming out in 9th picture with red and white wire) for the secondary side meanwhile on the fake charger just a bare magnet wire so you're risking yourself if the secondary winding somehow touched the primary winding because of the insulation is so thin, it will broke off because of heat during use.
- Official charger use proper, big class Y capacitor (the cyan color thingy) meanwhile the fake charger use a smaller one, if this thing get fault and shorted then your phone will get direct contact with the mains side.

sandpox said:
IMO the easiest way to check charger without disassembly it is:
- Checking the letter for typo/the ink are too bold/ you can feel the letter with your finger then it's a fake one
- Check for the USB contacts, official charger usually gold plated
- Check for weight, fake charger use fewer component => fewer weight
- Official charger did have a circuitry built in to make it work with Fast Charging capability device, meanwhile the fake charger are not, obviously it will not able to do the Fast Charging
For the electrical safety:
- On the fake charger, the secondary (USB) are not having enough clearance to the mains side (240v), this could leads to your phone get fried if there is a high voltage spike in the mains causing it to arcs over and you could risk the life of yourself if you're touching the metal parts on the phone, you can clearly see the 8th image of the official charger having a plastic separation between the secondary side and primary side to prevent such arcing occurs.
- Transformer of official charger use 2 layer insulation (magnet wire with a rubber sleeve, you can see the secondary winding of official charger coming out in 9th picture with red and white wire) for the secondary side meanwhile on the fake charger just a bare magnet wire so you're risking yourself if the secondary winding somehow touched the primary winding because of the insulation is so thin, it will broke off because of heat during use.
- Official charger use proper, big class Y capacitor (the cyan color thingy) meanwhile the fake charger use a smaller one, if this thing get fault and shorted then your phone will get direct contact with the mains side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually there are fake chargers that do adaptative charging. I got one, but the differences i found is that it gets really hot muy hotter than the original, and it makes a little buzz sound while chraging.

Running K1 without battery?

The ST8 battery on my K1 is now bloated and the back cover is popping off. Looks pretty shady and does not qualify for a recall.
Instead of replacing the battery with third party li-ion cells, which is what most people would do, I want to run my K1 without a battery going forward and only draw power while plugged in via the native USB connection. I don't use my K1 on the go anymore and don't want to deal with the longevity issue of li-ion batteries.
Anyone use their K1 without a battery?
Apparently the battery charge board must be kept as the bootloader checks to see if the stock battery is there otherwise it shuts down and doesn't boot?
I've read somewhere that people have soldered a resistor in lieu of the battery across the terminals of the battery charge board to fool the circuitry? But that seems shady as it will keep drawing power across the resistor as the charge board tries to charge it all the time and draw power across the resistor constantly.
What about using a combination of resistors and capacitors in series and in parallel to mimic the RC circuit equivalent of the battery?
Or some circuit that fools the voltmeter on the battery charging board into thinking the terminals have reached full 3.8V and to stop charging?
I'm only just looking into this today and still pretty green on all things internal about the K1. What options are there to run the K1 without the battery?

there are not really any provisions to do what your talking you are going to need to do some creative things i am thinking about open back and using 14440 cells in parallel. you will need to provide 3.7-4.2v to the charge circuit of the original battery the cell connected to it doesn't need be a cell it could be regulated power from another source. But IMHO 3d printer plus 5-6 AA sized li-mn batteries in parrallel.