Related
Anyone know where to buy the same cable with charger plug that comes with the phone? I bought a samsung cable off amazon and it doesn't work. Thanks.
It's a standard micro-USB cable. Amazon has some non-generics made by Blackberry for a little over a dollar.
I bought the Samsung Replacement USB Data Charging Cable for Samsung SPH-M330, SCH-R100, SGH-T939, SCH-R850 and it does not work with the Charge.
I bought this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049IE70I and
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001XXUOQI
I think the second one is the one you are saying you bought...I bought 4 of them and they all work.
I know its just a normal micro usb cable, but I also would like to find a few more of the factory cables that came with the Charge. They are really nice quality. If you compare part numbers the Charge cable and charger have a newer part number than what is currently available on samsungs website. Maybe they are slowly phasing the new cable and charger in replacing the older style.
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA App
The micro USB cable I'm using now that worked with the Thunderbolt does not work with the Charge. Does anyone know of any 6ft cables they know work with the Charge? I'm also wondering if it might be the cigarette adapter that is not up to the task.
you do have to be careful because several merchants are going to see the term "Charge Cable" and think that it is meant for the Charge, however it is actually meant for "Charging only"
I have several microusb charging cables and they do not allow usb mode, however if it clearly states "for sync" it should work...
cheap generics
MyCableMart offers some great deals on cables. I bought a 6ft and a 10ft from them and both work great with my Charge.
mycablemart(dot)com/store/cart.php?c=26&m=product_list#USB
p.s. I can't post links yet
foister82 said:
you do have to be careful because several merchants are going to see the term "Charge Cable" and think that it is meant for the Charge, however it is actually meant for "Charging only"
I have several microusb charging cables and they do not allow usb mode, however if it clearly states "for sync" it should work...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1. Be careful. Any old USB to micro-USB cable will charge the phone, but you won't be reading or writing data without the proper version of the cable. I found that out the hard way after trying to get Odin to recognize the Charge with a generic cable for an hour before finally trying the OEM Samsung cable
I used my OG Motorola Droid's micro USB cable to root the other day, it worked flawlessly.
Any micro USB should work and can be bought anywhere. I used the micro USB cable from my WD Passport.
Sent from Samsung Droid Charge via XDA App
Just go with monoprice... http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10303#1030307
If you're not familiar with them- they do great quality cables (across the board) for dirt cheap...hdmi, home theater, computer etc...p.s. their LCD mounts are great and cheap too.
I'm personally trying to track down a good quality retractable micro-usb cable for use in the car...I looked at a few on amazon, but the reviews were sketchy for some issues with the connector not being long enough. Anyone have any experience?
smguy101 said:
I used my OG Motorola Droid's micro USB cable to root the other day, it worked flawlessly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 I am also using Motorola cables without any issues. Superb quality, using them for everything.
Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk
I only use the samsung cable when using odin. I read there is an extra pin for data but I might be wrong or motorola used the same data pin. I have 2 retractable cables I use, ine I keep in my bag for data transfer/charging and one in my work desk for charging only. My work Mac hates when I plug in the data cable so It's just safer to use the charge only cable if I'm not transfering data.
Apparently the Charge has a special cable with some pin that allows flashing through Odin.
Not only that, I'm pretty sure you need the correct type of cable for the correct voltage output(if you want a full and fast charge)
Hi all. I am deciding between the Charge and the Infuse for work (we have contracts with both ATT and Verizon).
I was reading about the USB cable for the Charge. Looks like I need the "special" cable to do both charging AND data as you guys are discovering.
Can anyone confirm if that is the same case for the Infuse?
Thanks
Ernie
aesalazar said:
Hi all. I am deciding between the Charge and the Infuse for work (we have contracts with both ATT and Verizon).
I was reading about the USB cable for the Charge. Looks like I need the "special" cable to do both charging AND data as you guys are discovering.
Can anyone confirm if that is the same case for the Infuse?
Thanks
Ernie
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't join AT&T over something so minor as a USB cable. Verizon's network much more reliable imo.
It's not the phone that is causing the charge only/charge and data issue it's the cable itself. Some cables are marketed as charge only cables that are not made with any wires for data. There are universal cables for data and charging that have these wires.
What I was talking about is a special pin for use with Odin. Possibly a special factory function or error checking. That's why I always use the factory cable for flashing.
FYI: The cable I bought is defective as it won't work on my friends dx2 either. I still would like to know where to get the official cable from (assuming the price is not crazy) if anyone knows.
Thanks for the info guys. Interesting about that extra pin. Also a bit of a PITA since it nice to be able to use just any cable lying around.
Ernie
I got a OTG cable not too long ago from ebay. Works great until today when it broke, the wire inside disconnected from all the twisting but I managed to fix it.
Upon repairing the cable, I hooked up two extra leads to ground and 5v. So basically I can use the usb device and charge at the same time. But that didn't work. I made sure that there is power for the usb and everything. I discovered when the phone is off it would charge though the otg cable. Doesn't work when it's on. Is there a way around this problem or a different solution to charge and use usb at the same time?
mabe if you use a diode on + wire for current to flow one way
EDIT: SCROLL DOWN TO POST #12 WHERE I SHOW YOU HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN FULL-1900 mAh CHARGER!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=43663686&postcount=12
-=========================================
Has anyone used this particular item before? Or can recommend a similar hard-wire unit that operates at 2A to 3A?
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Connectors-Adapter-Recorder/dp/B00D6B6CJI
I'm thinking about getting one for my SUV and Motorcyle to charge the S4 at normal 1900 rates like the OEM wall-charger. Get that FAST charge.
Yes, I know about cig lighter chargers. No, that is not what this thread is for.
hello did you buy it?
CZ Eddie said:
Has anyone used this particular item before? Or can recommend a similar hard-wire unit that operates at 2A to 3A?
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Connectors-Adapter-Recorder/dp/B00D6B6CJI
I'm thinking about getting one for my SUV and Motorcyle to charge the S4 at normal 1900 rates like the OEM wall-charger. Get that FAST charge.
Yes, I know about cig lighter chargers. No, that is not what this thread is for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this hardwired into my WRX:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDL-WaterPr...35?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item1c34627e83
I ran it off the clock circuit (my clock is dead anyways) but any switched 12v source will do. It charges my car integrated Nexus7 without any issues, and at the faster rate.
I have another powering a servo and an aux USB port, but unfortunately I ran so much wire to get it into the center console by the handbrake it charges at USB rates.
paolopaulpaul said:
hello did you buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet.
Caferacer said:
I have this hardwired into my WRX:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDL-WaterPr...35?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item1c34627e83
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that's a great price! Does it charge at ~1900 rates? Here is an app that will tell you the charging rate:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw&hl=en
Just bought this one for $9 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-waterpr...34?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item3a7a051922
It's a waterproof box so it'll be better on my Motorcycle. I'll let you guys know how it works out by next week sometime.
There was a thread somewhere that explained why some chargers won't do the 1900mah charge. He figured out where and what size resistors to put across the wires to enable it. I think it was in a car dock thread, I'll try and find it.
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
CZ Eddie said:
Not yet.
Wow, that's a great price! Does it charge at ~1900 rates? Here is an app that will tell you the charging rate:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw&hl=en
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That app won't show the mA on my N7 but does show it charging near the same % as a fast charger.
MonkeyTime said:
There was a thread somewhere that explained why some chargers won't do the 1900mah charge. He figured out where and what size resistors to put across the wires to enable it. I think it was in a car dock thread, I'll try and find it.
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the shorting/grounding of the data pins that activates 'fast charge' mode on some phones. Nexus 7's and my E4GT (Sprint S2) when I used it didn't require the pins to be shorted to charge faster. Mostly it was the charger (duh) and the quality/length of the cable that affected the charge speed. As well, most of the heavy 1A plus chargers short the data pins in the charger itself so you can use any cable. I believe the S4 doesn't require it as well, but don't have any data to confirm it.
The way I wired mine was to sacrifice a USB female port from a USB extender, and attached the power leads and shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Caferacer said:
shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yours is the second post I've seen where someone has shorted the data pins on a charging-only setup. Is there a reason for doing that?
Ehh, n/m. I remembered the "Google before you ask" mantra...
This explains it nicely:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/194362-wont-charge-over-usb-car.html
MichaelBR said:
There are some reasons why it won't work, and some ways to solve it. First, let's understand how it works:
The USB cable has four pins. The inner two pins are where the data goes through. THe outer, power.
When the USB cable is plugged in to a computer, the data pins are connected normally and the phone knows it can only draw certain amount of power
When the cable is plugged in to a charger, the two middle pins are shorted, and the phone knows that it's NOT going to be sendind/receiving data, so it can draw as much power as it can. That's why it charges faster with the charger than when plugged in to a computer
Most chargers short the two pins. Some cables have a switch to do that.
There are different cable cauges as well, with different power capacities.
Some USB chargers, notably car chargers and some low-end (i.e. not good brand) chargers that don't draw from the car/don't give the phone as much current as it needs.
So, if any of below, the phone won't charge, or won't charge fast enough. Or, worse: it may appear as charging, but actually losing battery charge!
Cable too long or incorrect gauge
Middle pins not shorted for some reason
Charger doesn't deliver enough current
And the solutions are:
Don't use cable extensions, cables that are too long. Stick with the cable that came with the phone or with the charger
Get a good car charger, that delivers the right amount of current
I imagine you just got the cable from your original wall charger and plugged it in to the car charger. If you did that, then chances are the cable is OK, and the charger is the culprit. If this is the case, then get a better charger. Check how much current that charger can deliver. Check how much current your device actually needs.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
CZ Eddie said:
Yours is the second post I've seen where someone has shorted the data pins on a charging-only setup. Is there a reason for doing that?
Ehh, n/m. I remembered the "Google before you ask" mantra...
This explains it nicely:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/194362-wont-charge-over-usb-car.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be clear, there is no indication it is *required* for the S4. Mine quick charges just fine without shorted data leads. However I did this because my friends have a variety of phones and it only took a few minutes to do.
Caferacer said:
That app won't show the mA on my N7 but does show it charging near the same % as a fast charger.
It's the shorting/grounding of the data pins that activates 'fast charge' mode on some phones. Nexus 7's and my E4GT (Sprint S2) when I used it didn't require the pins to be shorted to charge faster. Mostly it was the charger (duh) and the quality/length of the cable that affected the charge speed. As well, most of the heavy 1A plus chargers short the data pins in the charger itself so you can use any cable. I believe the S4 doesn't require it as well, but don't have any data to confirm it.
The way I wired mine was to sacrifice a USB female port from a USB extender, and attached the power leads and shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Caferacer said:
To be clear, there is no indication it is *required* for the S4. Mine quick charges just fine without shorted data leads. However I did this because my friends have a variety of phones and it only took a few minutes to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I agree with what you posted in general terms, below is the link to the thread I was talking about. He did some testing and found the pins aren't just shorted, but shorted w/ 82K resistors to get the maximum charging current.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2274321
Will it damage the phone to have a 3A charger plugged into it? Also If it does not damage would it be able to run the camera as a "blackbox" and not die? I currently have a 2a charger and when i use the black box software it dies after about an hour or so.
SUCCESS!
I got the little black box in from eBay.
Gave it a quick/test wire setup. This is NOT indicative of the end result which will be soldered & have shrink tubing, etc.
Okay, first I grabbed my stock S3 data/charge cable.
Snipped off the standard USB end.
Cut off the ends of the pin 2 & 3 wires since they were not being used anymore (data pins).
Then attached the red (power) from the S3 cable to the yellow (power) lead from the little black box. And did the same for the black (negative) leads.
Then hard wired the red & black from the little black box to my motorcycle battery terminals.
On the first test, I only got 460mAh.
Then I decided to short the 2 & 3 pin wires (green & white) on the S3 cable together (attach them to each other). This gave me 1120mAh!
Next I took the tin-foil and wire braid from the S3 cable and tied them together with the negative lead on the S3 cable. This gave me 1220mAh!
Still not satisfied, I then cut down the 5' S3 cable and made it a 1.5' cable.
AND THIS RESULTED IN A FULL 1920mAh!!!! Right on.
That is exactly the same mAh as the stock S4 wall charger & cable combo give me. Very stoked about this. So now I'll do a nice clean install on the bike and then duplicate it for my car dock sometime soon. FULL CHARGE AHEAD!
Crxdc said:
Will it damage the phone to have a 3A charger plugged into it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it will be fine. The phone only draws 1900mAh. If the phone were drawing 3000mAh then there might be a problem.
All done and installed now. And working great!
Negative battery connection (I forgot to shrink tube it but will do that later).
Braided negative wire (~16 to 18awg?) running under gas tank to front of bike.
I wish I would have waited till I got black zip ties in. I hate white zip ties.
The braided wire at the right side of pic that goes up above the gas tank is the pos/neg wire lead that plus right into the phone.
2A inline fuse connecting via blade connector (sorry MC) to a previously used power-on-ignition wire.
This goes to (+) on the little black box.
Note the shrink tube over the braid over the crimp connector (wire goes to top-right of screen).
Phone sitting next to the phone dock I made out of a holster that came with my phone case.
You can see the braided/shrink tubed MicroUSB connector already plugged into the phone.
It's not showing a charge though, because the ignition key is not turned on.
Phone is inserted into stable dock (it will never fall out unless I crash hard).
Ignition is turned on and battery is charging!
And proof that it's charging at the full 1900mAh. Success!
CZ Eddie said:
All done and installed now. And working great!
Negative battery connection (I forgot to shrink tube it but will do that later).
Braided negative wire (~16 to 18awg?) running under gas tank to front of bike.
I wish I would have waited till I got black zip ties in. I hate white zip ties.
The braided wire at the right side of pic that goes up above the gas tank is the pos/neg wire lead that plus right into the phone.
2A inline fuse connecting via blade connector (sorry MC) to a previously used power-on-ignition wire.
This goes to (+) on the little black box.
Note the shrink tube over the braid over the crimp connector (wire goes to top-right of screen).
Phone sitting next to the phone dock I made out of a holster that came with my phone case.
You can see the braided/shrink tubed MicroUSB connector already plugged into the phone.
It's not showing a charge though, because the ignition key is not turned on.
Phone is inserted into stable dock (it will never fall out unless I crash hard).
Ignition is turned on and battery is charging!
And proof that it's charging at the full 1900mAh. Success!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome.
Hard wire phone charger and Bluetooth Receiver to car battery plan...
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
ebrowni said:
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks good to me. :good:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-USB-Ca...064?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51af639938
ebrowni said:
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead. I personally wouldn't wire anything directly to the battery, especially since you didn't mention an inline fuse. Find a switched 12v lead inside the car. Not only does this protect your phone, charger, and car, but it also means you don't have to run anything through the firewall, which is a pain.
You can either tie into the cig lighter wiring, or find something else (I used my clock circuit since it runs to a 10A fuse and is switched).
Caferacer said:
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead. I personally wouldn't wire anything directly to the battery, especially since you didn't mention an inline fuse. Find a switched 12v lead inside the car. Not only does this protect your phone, charger, and car, but it also means you don't have to run anything through the firewall, which is a pain.
You can either tie into the cig lighter wiring, or find something else (I used my clock circuit since it runs to a 10A fuse and is switched).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your clock circuit is switched?
I agree with the firewall being a pita, but I'm not a huge fan of tapping on to other circuits either. With nothing charging, what would be drawing any current? If there's anything, it would have to be minimal. It also allows you to charge a phone/device with the car not running, sometimes very handy (and a modification I've made before for just that reason). An inline fuse is also a must, good point!
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
MonkeyTime said:
Your clock circuit is switched?
I agree with the firewall being a pita, but I'm not a huge fan of tapping on to other circuits either. With nothing charging, what would be drawing any current? If there's anything, it would have to be minimal. It also allows you to charge a phone/device with the car not running, sometimes very handy (and a modification I've made before for just that reason). An inline fuse is also a must, good point!
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, my clock circuit has a switched lead to wake up the clock as well as a hard wired lead to retain the time. Both run to the same 10A fuse.
There is a small transformer in the converter and the receiver bluetooth will stay on. They have a small energy draw which is not negligible over a long period of time. At the very least I would include a dash mounted switch to completely shut the charger and receiver off. For instance I have a bluetooth OBD adapter (Not too much unlike your bluetooth receiver) that drained a 2 year old car battery over a week I left the car sitting while I was on vacation. For day to day driving it's not a problem but my OBD adapter isn't hardwired and I can just remove it when I know the car will be sitting.
Thanks
Caferacer said:
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oooh, good point! Makes sense to me. I have never done a mod to my car's audio system so I'll be paying a professional installer. I'm so glad to have this information before I shop around at the good places here and get some offers!
Thank you!
Hi,
I would like to create list of car chargers that are able to charge N5 in AC mode.
Till now I have found only one review on Amazon on: "PowerGen Dual USB 3.1A Car charger".
Sorry, but I still can't post links.
I want to buy something that works for sure.
So, please share your real life experience...
armourer1 said:
Hi,
I would like to create list of car chargers that are able to charge N5 in AC mode.
Till now I have found only one review on Amazon on: "PowerGen Dual USB 3.1A Car charger".
Sorry, but I still can't post links.
I want to buy something that works for sure.
So, please share your real life experience...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Dual-...5839252&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+usb+car+charger is working fine, it has 2 ports one of which says it is for apple but works just fine on any device both ports charge over 2 Amps.
Ady1976
Thanks for replay,
Can you please Goto Settings -> About -> Status -> Battery Status: and verify that you see Charging (AC) ?
I am also able to charge with old Griffin charger, but it only works with "Charging (USB)" - 0.5A.
Thanks...
armourer1 said:
Ady1976
Thanks for replay,
Can you please Goto Settings -> About -> Status -> Battery Status: and verify that you see Charging (AC) ?
I am also able to charge with old Griffin charger, but it only works with "Charging (USB)" - 0.5A.
Thanks...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, yes it does say charging by (AC)
Ady1976
Thanks a lot !
Now I have one more charger to choose from -
0.5A is USB level so that's why that one doesn't work, anything that charges at 1A or over should be fine.
b1g1an said:
0.5A is USB level so that's why that one doesn't work, anything that charges at 1A or over should be fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My charger is capable of driving more than 0.5A, but the phone don't "understand' it.
Android determines that a charger is a wall charger (as opposed to a computer) by the fact that the data ports are shorted together. Apple chargers don't do this, so most chargers made for Apple products will only charge Android devices at 0.5A. Heck, almost no car chargers do, unless they were made specifically for an Android device. Here's what I did:
I ordered this Griffin car charger, mainly because of the size. It just BARELY sticks out of the car's charging plug. Then, I ordered the Nexus Wireless Charger, and used the cable it came with (minus the wall plug). Presto... Qi wireless charging in my car. The magnets hold the N5 in place nicely so it doesn't slide off the charger in my center console, and the charger I linked easily supplies the 1.8A that the Nexus Charger expects.
The catch is that this charger was designed for an Apple product, so I had to carefully pry it apart and short the center two USB pins with solder using a soldering iron (those are the data pins).
EDIT: I should point out here that the Nexus charger may work fine without shorting the pins. I didn't test it. I wanted the ability to quick charge via cable if necessary, since Qi charging is a bit slower, so I shorted the pins, but if all you're interested in is Qi charging, you may be able to get by without modifying the charger. If someone wants to test this, please let us know.
jt3
Thanks for the info. I have some kind of Griffin charger with 2 USB ports.
So, I will try to do the same - shorten data pins inside the charger.
I will post it works
Just an FYI, I was charging with a charger that listed AC mode last weekend yet it wasn't charging faster than the power was draining.
Not all the AC modes officially charge at a faster pace unfortunately. My Galaxy Nexus car dock charger though did charge it at a proper AC pace.
What took me a little while to figure out is that this issue may not be as related to the charger as it is to the cable. I tried 3 different car chargers and none of them would keep up with GPS battery drain in the car. I figured out that common to all 3 chargers that I was trying was the cable. So I bought this cable and now all 3 of the same chargers work great. I am finding that even at 1.0A you can keep up with the gps battery drain. At 1.5 amps or greater you can charge the battery in the car while using GPS full time.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0088HTYUE/ref=ya_aw_oh_pit
jalanjkcarp said:
What took me a little while to figure out is that this issue may not be as related to the charger as it is to the cable. I tried 3 different car chargers and none of them would keep up with GPS battery drain in the car. I figured out that common to all 3 chargers that I was trying was the cable. So I bought this cable and now all 3 of the same chargers work great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is because some "charge only" cables don't have data pins at all (usually, because they came with a charging dock of some sort, or were designed for devices other than Android). Remember, I said earlier that Android notices that it's on a charger when the data pins are shorted. If they're missing completely, then it will only charge at 0.5A.
My rule of thumb is to stay far - far away from charge-only cables.
I bought a "2.1A Car Charger" with a single USB port (made by PNY....Amazon for about $6 shipped)... opened it up and soldered a bridge between the middle 2 USB pins.
Previously it reported Charging (USB), now I get Charging (AC). Confirmed with a widget that showed charging amps, the number went way way up.
Presumably any of these chargers claiming high-amp output will only work with iDevices, I guess they ignore the USB standard that if the two middle pins are bridged, its a power-only connection and full power can flow.
I did test this on an HTC One X running 4.2 and it reports Charging USB though, so there is a dependency on one of the newer Android kernels (my N5 runs 4.4.2)
Edit: oh yea... with my newly modded charger, I tested turning on Bluetooth streaming audio to my car, GPS on, navigation running, screen on, 100% bright, and wifi tethering enabled, and i STILL had a net charge going.
I've just bought a Blackberry Premium In-Vehicle Charger and my N5 recognizes it as an AC charger. The phone pulls around 1A from it (it's good for up to 1.8A). This is it, though I purchased mine from a local store.
Hi..
Anyone tried wireless charging on our device using Universal Qi Wireless Charging Receiver Film??
think someone mentioned there were two unused contacts on our tablet by the power distribution board so... maybe...? i'm not risking shorting my tablet out ;x
Only via usb qi adapter
Yes i'm sure that QI usb receiver film is the safest to use. But does it gives enough power to our huge battery? Anybody test it to give us feedback?
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That is a good point. So maybe carging will take double time
msdn70 said:
Yes i'm sure that QI usb receiver film is the safest to use. But does it gives enough power to our huge battery? Anybody test it to give us feedback?
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I don't believe it will work without some modification. I picked up a great deal on a note 8, a couple of days ago, but it came without a charger. I had to juggle several different chargers and cables to find a combination that would work. I believe that the data lines need to be tied together (shorted via a resistor) & a minimum input amperage. I have a 500mA receiver I'll test tonight. I also just picked up a 1000mA reciever (made for a galaxy s5), and once I can solder on a micro usb plug I'll try it as well.
I suspect we'll need to do some modifications to get a workable usb wireless receiver going. Probably at least 1000mA and a surface mount smd resistor between the data lines.
Alternately the usb charger port is a fairly simple plugin replacement, and cheap (around $5 on ebay). It's pins are also large enough to solder some 22 or 24 gauge wire if you have a steady hand. It could be a possible solution to have wireless charging without tying up the usb port.
I'll post when I have more info.
Ok tested the note 8 with a 500mA generic usb wireless receiver. Did not charge. Turned it off and left it on the pad for a few hours, no change in charge, Galaxy charging current shows no charging. I have a 1000mA film/tag that just arrived and I'll try it soon(ish)., but I don't expect any difference.
If the data lines need to be tied together to charge it eliminates a couple of options. The cleanest would have been popping the back off (fairly easy to open) and soldering directly to the usb board pins, since it wouldn't block the usb port, but that's out, since we can't tie the data lines together.
Using a modified generic usb film is also out unless you *never* use your usb port for anything. Some of the usb receivers do have contacts for all 5 pins (although most don't) so it could be modified to work, but you don't want to be taking the back off all the time.
So I think the best alternative (if the unmodified 1000mA reciever doesn't work) is a case, with a wireless receiver. I did that for my tab 2, and it worked ok, but I doubt I'll go through the trouble with the note 8.
Any news about Qi charging for Note 8.0 ?
I know this post is quite old, but I would like to know about your experiments on trying the 1 A module and the resistor value you wanted to test with your Note 8.
Anybody else having found a solution?
A.Sectron said:
I know this post is quite old, but I would like to know about your experiments on trying the 1 A module
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The results were the same as with the 500mA receiver (no/not charging).
A.Sectron said:
and the resistor value you wanted to test with your Note 8.
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I have not tested a resistor value, since tying the data lines together is not a viable method for an internal receiver (although I may use it for a case in the future). However it can be determined fairly easily by simply measuring your current charger/cable combination's ohms (assuming there is a value, it may simply be shorted) with your multimeter.
Thx - Good to know, you havnt given up this idea for wireless charging on Note 8.
devinpatterson said:
... tying the data lines together is not a viable method for an internal receiver (although I may use it for a case in the future).
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Some time ago I came across a solution for Note 3 on eBay. Apart from the NFC contact pins, do you believe it could be useful for Note 8? The current is around 1000 mA too and I dont mind soldering some wires parallel to the Note 8 battery connections from that slim coil package?
Does Samsung check the manufacture license detection for Qi chargers at Note 8 the same way as in Note 3 for S-View cover? I know we dont need such at Note 8, but the additional pins (I saw 5 all together on that receiver) may have a function for Kitkat and the charging circuit detecting weather the coil or the data connection is working. - Its just an idea why the simple 2 wire connection you have tried didnt charge at all.
If I have to connect the coil through USB, the whole advantage of wireless charging is nil. I would like to avoid plugging the USB in my car, the connection may not last as long as the accu could survive. - Thx for sharing your knowledge.
A.Sectron said:
Some time ago I came across a solution for Note 3 on eBay. Apart from the NFC contact pins, do you believe it could be useful for Note 8? The current is around 1000 mA too and I dont mind soldering some wires parallel to the Note 8 battery connections from that slim coil package?
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No there is nothing like an S-cover for the note 8 because it (the note 8) doesn't have a user removable back (and therefore no contacts to receive a charge even if you did remove the back). I'd strongly recommend against wiring directly to the battery.
A.Sectron said:
Does Samsung check the manufacture license detection for Qi chargers at Note 8 the same way as in Note 3 for S-View cover?
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Sorry don't know what your asking there.
A.Sectron said:
I know we dont need such at Note 8, but the additional pins (I saw 5 all together on that receiver) may have a function for Kitkat and the charging circuit detecting weather the coil or the data connection is working. - Its just an idea why the simple 2 wire connection you have tried didnt charge at all.
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Only the USB connector is relevant since the note 8 doesn't have a additional charging circuit built in (like the note 3 does for the S-cover or wireless charging back/cover). The usb works with the correct cable and charger. It's not unusual for the charger from specific manufacturers to have the data lines tied together with a few variations (directly tied together, or tied together with various resistances). The problem is we can't make those alterations internally without compromising the usb port (I believe). That is why the charging receiver film/coil will have to be in an external case connected to teh usb port. That way the appropriate alterations can be made without impacting the usb port.