Introduction:
If you’re reading this, I’m going to assume that you want to learn something new. I love sharing knowledge with others, so I hope you do as well. With that being said, please understand that I’m doing this in my spare time, and have no degree of any kind on this topic. What I’ve compiled here is a pretty good guide to explain and hopefully educate some of you on a highly talked about, but widely misunderstood concept of CPU architecture.
Before we begin, I need to make sure you all understand a few basic concepts of electricity. I can’t teach you new material if you don’t know the language, right?
Terminology:
Voltage
The first term is, of course, voltage. Voltage is defined as the difference in electrical potential between two points. What does that mean, I’m sure you wonder? Well, to put it simply, think of a fire hydrant. When the valve is opened to let water into a hose, from the hydrant, it rushes in all at once to the end of the hose. It sits there in the hose until the nozzle is opened to put out the fire. The force that pushes the water forward is called water pressure, and like water pressure, voltage pushes the electrical current along as well. So, we will think of voltage itself as the force or pressure being applied behind an electrical current to keep it moving.
Amperage
Next up is the term, amperes. In short this is the electrical current itself. An ampere, or amp for short, is the actual unit of measurement for the amount of electricity passing a single point in a circuit at one time. This might seem confusing, so let’s just keep it simple and think of an amp as the electrical current itself. In the fire hose example, the amperage would be the water inside the hose.
Wattage
Last up is something called a watt. Now, this one can get tricky, so stick with me. A watt literally measures the rate of energy conversion or the transfer of energy. So, essentially, the watt measures the amount of work done over time. This is where it gets tricky and a little confusing. Wattage, in the fire hose example, would be the amount of water that the fire hose can hold. This is the work, or wattage, generated by the hose while operating under a constant flow of water. Now, that’s the tricky part right there. ‘Work’ in this example isn’t a normal 9-5 job. It is, more simply put, the overall capacity of the hose. A normal household lightbulb is rated around 60 watts. This means that while it’s on, it is producing a constant amount of light. This constant amount is 60 watts, which is its peak brightness under constant current.
So, to sum these three terms up as simply as possible, think of voltage as pressure, amperage as the current, and wattage as the capacity.
Example
One final example should help with this analogy. We’ve all seen those wacky waving inflatable arm flailing tubemen before, right? If not, or if you’ve never seen Family Guy before, it’s basically a long, nylon tube that is open at both ends. One end is attached to a fan at the bottom, while the other end is left open for air to escape. When the fan at the bottom is turned on, it begins to generate wind that inflates the tube and causes it to rise off the ground and flail about in the air. In this example, the voltage is the air pressure keeping the tube floating, the wind flowing through the tube is the amperage, and the amount of wind needed to make the tube rise off the ground is called the wattage.
Undervolting:
Myth or fact?
Let’s go ahead and start off with a bang, shall we? First, let me make it clear to you that no matter what people tell you, undervolting your CPU will not magically make your battery last five days longer than it should. I’m not saying it doesn’t save battery at all, because it does. It just doesn’t save as much as you’ve probably been led to believe. On any average smartphone battery under normal conditions, you should not expect an increase of more than a few percent while undervolting.
Does this mean you should stop undervolting altogether? Not at all! Quite the contrary, actually. Undervolting is actually a very good thing for your smart phone when you do it correctly. Undervolting has one major positive effect on your CPU: it will extend the life of your processor by allowing it to do demanding things with lower heat generation. In the tube example from before, undervolting would be like reducing the fan speed as low as possible while still keeping the tube in the air. The air pressure lowers along with the wind current, or amperage. Due to the now lower amount of pressure, the amount of wind being pushed through the tube (amperage, remember?) is lowered slightly as well. This, in turn, prolongs the life of the nylon tube itself by putting less strain on it while it’s flapping around in the breeze. It’s kind of like how a flag flying in the breeze will last longer than one you fly on the back of your truck while you drive down the highway.
Summary:
Now that we’ve learned all this, what does it all mean? Well, going back to the nylon tube example, the tube itself is the CPU. So, all three properties discussed before come into play here around the nylon tube (CPU). The air pressure forces the wind up through the tube and causes the tube to raise in much the same way as the voltage from your battery causes the electrical current to flow along the circuits through the CPU. Wattage is simply the maximum amount of juice flowing from the battery keeping everything running at the same current.
All this nylon tube talk is only here to show you how the act of undervolting your CPU actually affects the processor itself. Yes, it does reduce stress on your CPU. Yes, it does reduce the drain on the battery. No, it will not likely produce a result that you’ve been hyped up to believe. The effects of undervolting your CPU are minimal at best, and should, in my opinion, only be used if you want your CPU to run a bit cooler under demanding tasks, such as using a heavy GPS app, like CoPilot, for a few hours, or while playing graphics intensive games for a while. Outside of that, you may gain about 30 minutes of extra run time on your battery on average (everyone’s phone is different, this is a rough average), or another couple of months of life on your CPU. Keep in mind that CPUs last many years on average under normal use, notwithstanding defects or abuse.
I’m certainly not telling you to avoid undervolting. I undervolt all my devices, including my personal computers. This post is meant to be informative since most people do this without understanding most of the concepts, while they buy into the hype generated around this. My main point is that the main reason you should undervolt is to keep the heat down on your device while you do demanding things. After all, you have a device in your hands today, most likely, that is more powerful than most desktop PCs just a few short years ago. Why wouldn’t you want to get everything out of it?
Bonus example:
Yet another example of voltage and amperage is your own cell phone charger. Most cell phone chargers now are 5V (volt), 1A (ampere/amp) chargers. This means that there are 5 volts pushing the 1 ampere electrical current to your phone over the USB cable. Wattage comes into play here in the electrical outlet. Most US electrical outlets are rated at 125 watts. Most cell phones are rated at 4-5W (watts) per hour. This means, that the outlet will still have a capacity of 120 or so watts per hour left over while your phone is charging.
How to undervolt:
The procedure for undervolting is different for each device (normally), so I’m not going to show anyone how to do it here. There are a few apps on the market that can help you do it if your kernel supports this feature. If you don’t know if your kernel supports this feature, please ask your ROM chef. Most, if not all, stock ROMs do not support this.
Apps:
The following apps will allow you to tweak your voltage settings if your kernel/ROM allow it. Root is required. There are many more on the market, but these are a few of the most popular ones.
System Tuner Pro
Set CPU
Voltage Control
IncrediControl
Reserved
Thanks for the info CFB
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
cajunflavoredbob said:
Introduction:
If you’re reading this, I’m going to assume that you want to learn something new. I love sharing knowledge with others, so I hope you do as well. With that being said, please understand that I’m doing this in my spare time, and have no degree of any kind on this topic. What I’ve compiled here is a pretty good guide to explain and hopefully educate some of you on a highly talked about, but widely misunderstood concept of CPU architecture.
Before we begin, I need to make sure you all understand a few basic concepts of electricity. I can’t teach you new material if you don’t know the language, right?
Terminology:
Voltage
The first term is, of course, voltage. Voltage is defined as the difference in electrical potential between two points. What does that mean, I’m sure you wonder? Well, to put it simply, think of a fire hydrant. When the valve is opened to let water into a hose, from the hydrant, it rushes in all at once to the end of the hose. It sits there in the hose until the nozzle is opened to put out the fire. The force that pushes the water forward is called water pressure, and like water pressure, voltage pushes the electrical current along as well. So, we will think of voltage itself as the force or pressure being applied behind an electrical current to keep it moving.
Amperage
Next up is the term, amperes. In short this is the electrical current itself. An ampere, or amp for short, is the actual unit of measurement for the amount of electricity passing a single point in a circuit at one time. This might seem confusing, so let’s just keep it simple and think of an amp as the electrical current itself. In the fire hose example, the amperage would be the water inside the hose.
Wattage
Last up is something called a watt. Now, this one can get tricky, so stick with me. A watt literally measures the rate of energy conversion or the transfer of energy. So, essentially, the watt measures the amount of work done over time. This is where it gets tricky and a little confusing. Wattage, in the fire hose example, would be the amount of water that the fire hose can hold. This is the work, or wattage, generated by the hose while operating under a constant flow of water. Now, that’s the tricky part right there. ‘Work’ in this example isn’t a normal 9-5 job. It is, more simply put, the overall capacity of the hose. A normal household lightbulb is rated around 60 watts. This means that while it’s on, it is producing a constant amount of light. This constant amount is 60 watts, which is its peak brightness under constant current.
So, to sum these three terms up as simply as possible, think of voltage as pressure, amperage as the current, and wattage as the capacity.
Example
One final example should help with this analogy. We’ve all seen those wacky waving inflatable arm flailing tubemen before, right? If not, or if you’ve never seen Family Guy before, it’s basically a long, nylon tube that is open at both ends. One end is attached to a fan at the bottom, while the other end is left open for air to escape. When the fan at the bottom is turned on, it begins to generate wind that inflates the tube and causes it to rise off the ground and flail about in the air. In this example, the voltage is the air pressure keeping the tube floating, the wind flowing through the tube is the amperage, and the amount of wind needed to make the tube rise off the ground is called the wattage.
Undervolting:
Myth or fact?
Let’s go ahead and start off with a bang, shall we? First, let me make it clear to you that no matter what people tell you, undervolting your CPU will not magically make your battery last five days longer than it should. I’m not saying it doesn’t save battery at all, because it does. It just doesn’t save as much as you’ve probably been led to believe. On any average smartphone battery under normal conditions, you should not expect an increase of more than a few percent while undervolting.
Does this mean you should stop undervolting altogether? Not at all! Quite the contrary, actually. Undervolting is actually a very good thing for your smart phone when you do it correctly. Undervolting has one major positive effect on your CPU: it will extend the life of your processor by allowing it to do demanding things with lower heat generation. In the tube example from before, undervolting would be like reducing the fan speed as low as possible while still keeping the tube in the air. The air pressure lowers along with the wind current, or amperage. Due to the now lower amount of pressure, the amount of wind being pushed through the tube (amperage, remember?) is lowered slightly as well. This, in turn, prolongs the life of the nylon tube itself by putting less strain on it while it’s flapping around in the breeze. It’s kind of like how a flag flying in the breeze will last longer than one you fly on the back of your truck while you drive down the highway.
Summary:
Now that we’ve learned all this, what does it all mean? Well, going back to the nylon tube example, the tube itself is the CPU. So, all three properties discussed before come into play here around the nylon tube (CPU). The air pressure forces the wind up through the tube and causes the tube to raise in much the same way as the voltage from your battery causes the electrical current to flow along the circuits through the CPU. Wattage is simply the maximum amount of juice flowing from the battery keeping everything running at the same current.
All this nylon tube talk is only here to show you how the act of undervolting your CPU actually affects the processor itself. Yes, it does reduce stress on your CPU. Yes, it does reduce the drain on the battery. No, it will not likely produce a result that you’ve been hyped up to believe. The effects of undervolting your CPU are minimal at best, and should, in my opinion, only be used if you want your CPU to run a bit cooler under demanding tasks, such as using a heavy GPS app, like CoPilot, for a few hours, or while playing graphics intensive games for a while. Outside of that, you may gain about 30 minutes of extra run time on your battery on average (everyone’s phone is different, this is a rough average), or another couple of months of life on your CPU. Keep in mind that CPUs last many years on average under normal use, notwithstanding defects or abuse.
I’m certainly not telling you to avoid undervolting. I undervolt all my devices, including my personal computers. This post is meant to be informative since most people do this without understanding most of the concepts, while they buy into the hype generated around this. My main point is that the main reason you should undervolt is to keep the heat down on your device while you do demanding things. After all, you have a device in your hands today, most likely, that is more powerful than most desktop PCs just a few short years ago. Why wouldn’t you want to get everything out of it?
Bonus example:
Yet another example of voltage and amperage is your own cell phone charger. Most cell phone chargers now are 5V (volt), 1A (ampere/amp) chargers. This means that there are 5 volts pushing the 1 ampere electrical current to your phone over the USB cable. Wattage comes into play here in the electrical outlet. Most US electrical outlets are rated at 125 watts. Most cell phones are rated at 4-5W (watts) per hour. This means, that the outlet will still have a capacity of 120 or so watts per hour left over while your phone is charging.
How to undervolt:
The procedure for undervolting is different for each device (normally), so I’m not going to show anyone how to do it here. There are a few apps on the market that can help you do it if your kernel supports this feature. If you don’t know if your kernel supports this feature, please ask your ROM chef. Most, if not all, stock ROMs do not support this.
Apps:
The following apps will allow you to tweak your voltage settings if your kernel/ROM allow it. Root is required. There are many more on the market, but these are a few of the most popular ones.
System Tuner Pro
Set CPU
Voltage Control
IncrediControl
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great post but I still have a few questions - How do we know what are safe values to undervolt to and what aren't? I'm on the HTC Mecha so my issue may be slightly different.
Klonopin said:
Great post but I still have a few questions - How do we know what are safe values to undervolt to and what aren't? I'm on the HTC Mecha so my issue may be slightly different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Re-read the heading in the OP that says "How to undervolt."
Great guide for anyone wanting to learn about undervolting and CPU. So simply stated that Even an apple user could understand this. :thumbup:
AT&T SGS3
ParanoidKangDroid 1.1.0
KT747 10/28 OC'ed & UV'ed
Medical MJ Supporter
Dankest said:
Great guide for anyone wanting to learn about undervolting and CPU. So simply stated that Even an apple user could understand this. :thumbup:
AT&T SGS3
ParanoidKangDroid 1.1.0
KT747 10/28 OC'ed & UV'ed
Medical MJ Supporter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aww. That's not nice. Lol
cajunflavoredbob said:
Introduction:
If you’re reading this, I’m going to assume that you want to learn something new. I love sharing knowledge with others, so I hope you do as well. With that being said, please understand that I’m doing this in my spare time, and have no degree of any kind on this topic. What I’ve compiled here is a pretty good guide to explain and hopefully educate some of you on a highly talked about, but widely misunderstood concept of CPU architecture.
Before we begin, I need to make sure you all understand a few basic concepts of electricity. I can’t teach you new material if you don’t know the language, right?
Terminology:
Voltage
The first term is, of course, voltage. Voltage is defined as the difference in electrical potential between two points. What does that mean, I’m sure you wonder? Well, to put it simply, think of a fire hydrant. When the valve is opened to let water into a hose, from the hydrant, it rushes in all at once to the end of the hose. It sits there in the hose until the nozzle is opened to put out the fire. The force that pushes the water forward is called water pressure, and like water pressure, voltage pushes the electrical current along as well. So, we will think of voltage itself as the force or pressure being applied behind an electrical current to keep it moving.
Amperage
Next up is the term, amperes. In short this is the electrical current itself. An ampere, or amp for short, is the actual unit of measurement for the amount of electricity passing a single point in a circuit at one time. This might seem confusing, so let’s just keep it simple and think of an amp as the electrical current itself. In the fire hose example, the amperage would be the water inside the hose.
Wattage
Last up is something called a watt. Now, this one can get tricky, so stick with me. A watt literally measures the rate of energy conversion or the transfer of energy. So, essentially, the watt measures the amount of work done over time. This is where it gets tricky and a little confusing. Wattage, in the fire hose example, would be the amount of water that the fire hose can hold. This is the work, or wattage, generated by the hose while operating under a constant flow of water. Now, that’s the tricky part right there. ‘Work’ in this example isn’t a normal 9-5 job. It is, more simply put, the overall capacity of the hose. A normal household lightbulb is rated around 60 watts. This means that while it’s on, it is producing a constant amount of light. This constant amount is 60 watts, which is its peak brightness under constant current.
So, to sum these three terms up as simply as possible, think of voltage as pressure, amperage as the current, and wattage as the capacity.
Example
One final example should help with this analogy. We’ve all seen those wacky waving inflatable arm flailing tubemen before, right? If not, or if you’ve never seen Family Guy before, it’s basically a long, nylon tube that is open at both ends. One end is attached to a fan at the bottom, while the other end is left open for air to escape. When the fan at the bottom is turned on, it begins to generate wind that inflates the tube and causes it to rise off the ground and flail about in the air. In this example, the voltage is the air pressure keeping the tube floating, the wind flowing through the tube is the amperage, and the amount of wind needed to make the tube rise off the ground is called the wattage.
Undervolting:
Myth or fact?
Let’s go ahead and start off with a bang, shall we? First, let me make it clear to you that no matter what people tell you, undervolting your CPU will not magically make your battery last five days longer than it should. I’m not saying it doesn’t save battery at all, because it does. It just doesn’t save as much as you’ve probably been led to believe. On any average smartphone battery under normal conditions, you should not expect an increase of more than a few percent while undervolting.
Does this mean you should stop undervolting altogether? Not at all! Quite the contrary, actually. Undervolting is actually a very good thing for your smart phone when you do it correctly. Undervolting has one major positive effect on your CPU: it will extend the life of your processor by allowing it to do demanding things with lower heat generation. In the tube example from before, undervolting would be like reducing the fan speed as low as possible while still keeping the tube in the air. The air pressure lowers along with the wind current, or amperage. Due to the now lower amount of pressure, the amount of wind being pushed through the tube (amperage, remember?) is lowered slightly as well. This, in turn, prolongs the life of the nylon tube itself by putting less strain on it while it’s flapping around in the breeze. It’s kind of like how a flag flying in the breeze will last longer than one you fly on the back of your truck while you drive down the highway.
Summary:
Now that we’ve learned all this, what does it all mean? Well, going back to the nylon tube example, the tube itself is the CPU. So, all three properties discussed before come into play here around the nylon tube (CPU). The air pressure forces the wind up through the tube and causes the tube to raise in much the same way as the voltage from your battery causes the electrical current to flow along the circuits through the CPU. Wattage is simply the maximum amount of juice flowing from the battery keeping everything running at the same current.
All this nylon tube talk is only here to show you how the act of undervolting your CPU actually affects the processor itself. Yes, it does reduce stress on your CPU. Yes, it does reduce the drain on the battery. No, it will not likely produce a result that you’ve been hyped up to believe. The effects of undervolting your CPU are minimal at best, and should, in my opinion, only be used if you want your CPU to run a bit cooler under demanding tasks, such as using a heavy GPS app, like CoPilot, for a few hours, or while playing graphics intensive games for a while. Outside of that, you may gain about 30 minutes of extra run time on your battery on average (everyone’s phone is different, this is a rough average), or another couple of months of life on your CPU. Keep in mind that CPUs last many years on average under normal use, notwithstanding defects or abuse.
I’m certainly not telling you to avoid undervolting. I undervolt all my devices, including my personal computers. This post is meant to be informative since most people do this without understanding most of the concepts, while they buy into the hype generated around this. My main point is that the main reason you should undervolt is to keep the heat down on your device while you do demanding things. After all, you have a device in your hands today, most likely, that is more powerful than most desktop PCs just a few short years ago. Why wouldn’t you want to get everything out of it?
Bonus example:
Yet another example of voltage and amperage is your own cell phone charger. Most cell phone chargers now are 5V (volt), 1A (ampere/amp) chargers. This means that there are 5 volts pushing the 1 ampere electrical current to your phone over the USB cable. Wattage comes into play here in the electrical outlet. Most US electrical outlets are rated at 125 watts. Most cell phones are rated at 4-5W (watts) per hour. This means, that the outlet will still have a capacity of 120 or so watts per hour left over while your phone is charging.
How to undervolt:
The procedure for undervolting is different for each device (normally), so I’m not going to show anyone how to do it here. There are a few apps on the market that can help you do it if your kernel supports this feature. If you don’t know if your kernel supports this feature, please ask your ROM chef. Most, if not all, stock ROMs do not support this.
Apps:
The following apps will allow you to tweak your voltage settings if your kernel/ROM allow it. Root is required. There are many more on the market, but these are a few of the most popular ones.
System Tuner Pro
Set CPU
Voltage Control
IncrediControl
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the information!!!
Good job guys. Why don't I requote the entire passage to thank the op instead of hitting the thanks button.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Xparent ICS Tapatalk 2
hariskoirala said:
thanks for the information!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for quoting a long post like a douchebag.
Markuzy said:
Good job guys. Why don't I requote the entire passage to thank the op instead of hitting the thanks button.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Xparent ICS Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, please do. You're not cool unless you do it. /sarcasm
I don't understand those guys...
cajunflavoredbob said:
Thanks for quoting a long post like a douchebag.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He's probably post farming with useless "Thanks/me too/excellent/this is useful" posts to get the min 10 posts...
All such people should be reported.
Markuzy said:
He's probably post farming with useless "Thanks/me too/excellent/this is useful" posts to get the min 10 posts...
All such people should be reported.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably so. Those guys don't understand how easy it is to make ten useful posts.
Epic thanks for the guide its pretty easy for dummies like me to follow
nikufellow said:
Epic thanks for the guide its pretty easy for dummies like me to follow
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad you enjoyed it. I was hoping to make it as simple as possible. I'm glad it worked.
Very useful info
Thanks
Sent from my ST25i using Tapatalk 2
Really informative thread. Helped clear a lot of confusions. Wish everyone explained things this nicely.
Very nice. Thanks be clicked.
WHO DAT!!
Can you please tell a rough estimate of safe range. Or is there no danger in undervolting?
Sent from my IM-A770K using xda app-developers app
When I undervolt, I do a little at a time and make sure things are stable before trying again.. Make sure u do a nandroid and if u have any trouble, you can always boot into recovery and restore if u can't change ur voltages back to where they were stable.. Just my 2¢
From my rat infested note ii
Did you know that Samsung has a system called DVFS that basically does nothing other than cripping your phone's performance with aggressive underclocking? There's a big thread about it here, but other than that, it seems that this issue is not very well known, which is surprising considering the SGS4 is a very mainstream phone. When I discovered about it I was shocked because this system does literally nothing useful, but it makes gaming or other high end smartphone activities (heavy browsing, 3D games, heavy multitasking, etc) lag like crazy.
It shocks me that Samsung has implemented such a thing and that you cannot disable without rooting (and obviously voiding the warranty and your Knox flag), and nobody except a few XDA users noticed.
MarkMRL said:
Did you know that Samsung has a system called DVFS that basically does nothing other than cripping your phone's performance with aggressive underclocking? There's a big thread about it here, but other than that, it seems that this issue is not very well known, which is surprising considering the SGS4 is a very mainstream phone. When I discovered about it I was shocked because this system does literally nothing useful, but it makes gaming or other high end smartphone activities (heavy browsing, 3D games, heavy multitasking, etc) lag like crazy.
It shocks me that Samsung has implemented such a thing and that you cannot disable without rooting (and obviously voiding the warranty and your Knox flag), and nobody except a few XDA users noticed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You say it does nothing useful, but what does it do for battery life?
s14sh3r said:
You say it does nothing useful, but what does it do for battery life?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing? The phone already has extensive battery saving options, and it already has an underclocking option right there. Not to mention, swappable battery. Why is this thing enforced on everyone? If you use your flagship tier phone like it was an old Nokia from the nineties then it might not affect you. Since I use my phone for browsing internet, multimedia, and games, it does affect me a lot. I don't give a flying **** about one hour of additional battery when my phone slows down to a crawl. If I wanted to enable crawl mode I should have the option, the phone shouldn't decide arbitrarily when to slow down.
Also, if you really want to get into conspiracy theories, what makes you think this isn't a marketing ploy by samsung? To force users to get the S5 because the old one has such poor performance in games and stuff like that? The average smartphone user is so dumb he wouldn't realize it's all planned right in the system itself, they'd go " hurr, my phone can't run games well anymore, better go out and buy the S5, that will surely play games better, with it's multiple megapixels and cores and newer stuff I have no clue about".
MarkMRL said:
Nothing? The phone already has extensive battery saving options, and it already has an underclocking option right there. Not to mention, swappable battery. Why is this thing enforced on everyone? If you use your flagship tier phone like it was an old Nokia from the nineties then it might not affect you. Since I use my phone for browsing internet, multimedia, and games, it does affect me a lot. I don't give a flying **** about one hour of additional battery when my phone slows down to a crawl. If I wanted to enable crawl mode I should have the option, the phone shouldn't decide arbitrarily when to slow down.
Also, if you really want to get into conspiracy theories, what makes you think this isn't a marketing ploy by samsung? To force users to get the S5 because the old one has such poor performance in games and stuff like that? The average smartphone user is so dumb he wouldn't realize it's all planned right in the system itself, they'd go " hurr, my phone can't run games well anymore, better go out and buy the S5, that will surely play games better, with it's multiple megapixels and cores and newer stuff I have no clue about".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good points. I'm not arguing against you, btw, I'm not even sure how to tell if my phone is using it since I'm using Omega ROM.
s14sh3r said:
Good points. I'm not arguing against you, btw, I'm not even sure how to tell if my phone is using it since I'm using Omega ROM.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, if you play any game or if you browse a lot you'd probably notice because performance drops a lot and lag increases. I don't know what Omega Rom is, this is an issue in stock rom. Of course it doesn't affect me anymore because I have the knowledge to research this stuff and eventually find a solution (even though I obviously have no idea how the solution is made), but for the average user this should be an issue, I mean everyone should know about it, it's too shady to be ignored, this is planned obsolescence at its finest.
Also, if this was introduced to save battery, how come so many people are complaining about battery drain on Kitkat?
It's obviously a marketing strategy, and I will spread the word about it.
There's a technical paper on dvfs around which goes through some of the techniques samsung uses to optimise performance and battery use. https://events.linuxfoundation.org/images/stories/pdf/lcjp2012_ham.pdf
Sent from my unknown using Tapatalk
planetf1 said:
There's a technical paper on dvfs around which goes through some of the techniques samsung uses to optimise performance and battery use. https://events.linuxfoundation.org/images/stories/pdf/lcjp2012_ham.pdf
Sent from my unknown using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't care and I don't have the knowledge to understand anything in that document.
What I care about is:
Galaxy S4 on 4.3 and under: great performance, no issues.
Galaxy S4 on 4.4: awful performance, issues.
Other phones on 4.4: great performance, no issues.
It's no coincidence this happened only a few months before the S5 is released.
Either Samsung did something wrong with this implementation, or they did indeed do it to force users to upgrade because the older model is no longer viable for high end smartphone use.
planetf1 said:
There's a technical paper on dvfs around which goes through some of the techniques samsung uses to optimise performance and battery use. https://events.linuxfoundation.org/images/stories/pdf/lcjp2012_ham.pdf
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This has nothing to do with the user-space policies which you're complaining about.
Will deleting the twDVFS.apk be sufficient to disable this frequency scaling on my S4? Or is using the Xposed module necessary?
delete
According to some news, the so called "Game Optimizing Service" is availeable on S22 Ultra devices - which potenially controlls about 10.000 Apps of the App-Store.
Can someone confirm if it is installed / active on S22 Ultra on SD & Exynos ?
[Update: Samsung reponds] Galaxy phones appear to be throttling 10,000 Android apps, like OnePlus did
According to recent findings, Samsung is throttling thousands of common Android apps on its Galaxy devices, and without a clear reason.
9to5google.com
https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1499009797035008002
Package Disabler Pro
krogoth said:
Package Disabler Pro
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Pay for the money greedy developer.
Here's a link to my thread, i debloat Samsung firmware including GOS (Game Optimizing Service) for the best performance and battery.
[DISCONTINUED] Samsung Galaxy One UI - Optimization Guide
THIS IS A SUGGESTED CONFIGURATION FOR SAMSUNG DEVICES OUT OF SUPPORT/CLOSED I - RECOMMENDED SETTINGS To Start With - Factory Reset before starting optimisations - Factory Reset after every Major update (One UI/Android) - Remove SIM before first...
forum.xda-developers.com
I remember that Samsung used something like this in my Note 5 and S7 Edge from Android 6 to limit game performance on purpose.
I advise you all to disable this "optimization".
Reports say that the GOS cannot be disabled the old way b'cos it's now system app since One UI 4.0?
Will it help to uninstall insted of disabling?
You can't disable it in OneUI 4.x
It's part of the Kernel now.
Maybe instead of panicking and basing decisions on headlines and mob mentality you think about the reasons why this might have been done to start with?
Most of if not all of these apps will be very poorly optimised in general but especially for the hardware in the S22 series of devices - this means that left unchecked they will use more resources than they really need to, warming up the devices causing thermal throttling to kick in and draining the battery fast (as well as possibly reducing the lifespan of certain components).
This APK keeps these things in check, but for games where you really need more performance you can use gamebooster to switch to performance mode and recovery virtually all the lost power (if not all of it) - making it your choice to sacrifice heat and battery life for performance when you need it, not all the time.
Yeah, I uninstalled it via ADB but it returns after reboot.
Yeah only thing working from the sounds of it is being rooted and using a package disabler but yeah then you lose widevine currently.
I've disabled all it's permissions including "Change system setting", maybe that helps.
Also here it's mentioned that it's possible to disable the GOS for non-game apps, still waiting for answer to how though:
https://www.reddit.com/r/samsung/comments/t56kta
Lennyuk said:
Maybe instead of panicking and basing decisions on headlines and mob mentality you think about the reasons why this might have been done to start with?
Most of if not all of these apps will be very poorly optimised in general but especially for the hardware in the S22 series of devices - this means that left unchecked they will use more resources than they really need to, warming up the devices causing thermal throttling to kick in and draining the battery fast (as well as possibly reducing the lifespan of certain components).
This APK keeps these things in check, but for games where you really need more performance you can use gamebooster to switch to performance mode and recovery virtually all the lost power (if not all of it) - making it your choice to sacrifice heat and battery life for performance when you need it, not all the time.
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It is more or less the same discussion as we had with the oneplus 9 pro.
I am not seeing bad intend - but i dont't support the overall approach.
Most of theses apps are poorly optimized .... Even if so: That's none of the OS to take care of - especially not if you can't change / edit the overall parameters as a user on a "per App" Solution. I would love to see MS introduce something like this into windows....
Also the oem now actively could impact the performance of an App and the developer ist reliable anymore: "Well Samsung decided our app has to run like this, thanks for buying the pro version, but we can't help you". Wonderfull. And if Samsung has a bad day - maybe we are dropping the performance of some famous apps even more.... cause samsung would love to push the own alternative. Which includes some new advertising service... One could get creative with this stuff.
The reduction of lifespan is also a argument which is... at least questionable. I would argue that this is then poor product design or use of wrong or not fitting-quality components for the job. Makeing up "flaws" in Hardware by Software isn't really a solution to the overall problem
OK, so apparently this GOS thing is what the "Processing speed" option controls. It enables all apps to run at native speeds. I thought it just raised the clock speeds or something. Hmm..
@omnimax
not really. The thing is that the term - "Game Optimizing Service" is a bit missleading.
It is not about allowing named applications to run "native" or "unristricted". Named applications run with predefined ressourcess which aren't by any means "native". It's not about "raising" clockspeeds. It is about restriction of availeable ressourcces.
Lennyuk said:
Maybe instead of panicking and basing decisions on headlines and mob mentality you think about the reasons why this might have been done to start with?
Most of if not all of these apps will be very poorly optimised in general but especially for the hardware in the S22 series of devices - this means that left unchecked they will use more resources than they really need to, warming up the devices causing thermal throttling to kick in and draining the battery fast (as well as possibly reducing the lifespan of certain components).
This APK keeps these things in check, but for games where you really need more performance you can use gamebooster to switch to performance mode and recovery virtually all the lost power (if not all of it) - making it your choice to sacrifice heat and battery life for performance when you need it, not all the time.
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Nah, this is the same situation as OP did with OP9 series, except US SD user's cant even root and remove it completely so you're stuck at their mercy. If it was configurable, not enabled by default, only affected games and didn't phone home all the time, they might get a pass.... but the way it's implemented is pretty much the definition of malware.
Can't even opt-out
Always runs, with permissions or not.
Phones home with potentially identifying information. (EU people, check out how GDPR is handled here, it's probably not)
Makes your device slow.
The road to hell is paved on good intentions and what not...
I am really amused to see so much discussion on this here on XDA and social media as well. For 98% of the folks, as long as your phone runs smooth and gives you an all day battery life, enjoy it. Many app developers are also not saints. They may leak data and bloat code etc so OEMs need to take the matter in their hands. For avid gamers, they should probably get a gaming machine and use phones only for casual gaming. With current tech limits, gaming on phones will necessitate some tweaks to optimize performance. Apple is polished because it simply stops everything else in the background and focuses ONLY on 1 task on the foreground. And iPhones also do heat up after sometime while gaming.
linom said:
I am really amused to see so much discussion on this here on XDA and social media as well. For 98% of the folks, as long as your phone runs smooth and gives you an all day battery life, enjoy it. Many app developers are also not saints. They may leak data and bloat code etc so OEMs need to take the matter in their hands. For avid gamers, they should probably get a gaming machine and use phones only for casual gaming. With current tech limits, gaming on phones will necessitate some tweaks to optimize performance. Apple is polished because it simply stops everything else in the background and focuses ONLY on 1 task on the foreground. And iPhones also do heat up after sometime while gaming.
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It's really not the OEM's place to "take matter into their own hands". Don't push your use case on everyone else. Samsung does not know my user case, just like Apple does not know my use case, just like YOU don't know my use case. People bought this (and other, like the OP9) phone partially due to benchmark scores that should translate into performance metrics for their use case. When that's not the case, then they should be mad they got a paperweight. Check out the GOS enabled geekscore, it's basically a GS10. Why should users be happy they got a smooth UI experience when the things they actually want to do on a phone is gimped?
Your sentiment on a gaming machine... are you serious? This phone costs more than an actual mid-upper tier gaming PC. Some people like to play games on their phones, and some games are mobile only.
Again, optimizing by itself is not necessarily a bad thing. They just need to make it an opt-in experience, explain what it does clearly, let the users choose which apps to "optimize", and start letting people use their hardware like their own.
craznazn said:
It's really not the OEM's place to "take matter into their own hands". Don't push your use case on everyone else. Samsung does not know my user case, just like Apple does not know my use case, just like YOU don't know my use case. People bought this (and other, like the OP9) phone partially due to benchmark scores that should translate into performance metrics for their use case. When that's not the case, then they should be mad they got a paperweight. Check out the GOS enabled geekscore, it's basically a GS10. Why should users be happy they got a smooth UI experience when the things they actually want to do on a phone is gimped?
Your sentiment on a gaming machine... are you serious? This phone costs more than an actual mid-upper tier gaming PC. Some people like to play games on their phones, and some games are mobile only.
Again, optimizing by itself is not necessarily a bad thing. They just need to make it an opt-in experience, explain what it does clearly, let the users choose which apps to "optimize", and start letting people use their hardware like their own.
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Yeah, maybe you're right. They need to be transparent on the optimization choices.
lokto7 said:
Reports say that the GOS cannot be disabled the old way b'cos it's now system app since One UI 4.0?
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Cannot disable, adb fails...