[apk][mod] Lcamera with longer exposure times for crazy night pictures - Nexus 5X Themes and Apps

Hey everyone!
As some of you might know, the nexus 5x and nexus 6p cameras have a maximum exposure time in manual mode of 1/4.3 seconds, which is a real shame. Somebody suggested that Google made this choice because of the bigger size of the pixels, nonetheless the resulting pictures in very low light are not satisfying and none of the apps on the play store overrides the limit of 1/4.3 seconds.
So, I managed to unlock longer exposure times (up to 5 seconds) on the nexus 5x camera to take some truly unbelievable night pictures. Since the sensor is the same, this app should work also on the nexus 6p and it might work even on other devices with at least android 5.0. It also probably works on the nexus 5, but doesn't appear to be working on the nexus 6.
A big thank to PkmX for developing the original app Lcamera and to CazeW for his suggestions.
Notice that the photos will be upside down, because the sensor is mounted upside down (at least in the nexus 5x). Just rotate them with your favorite photos editor. Also notice that the "screen refresh time" is the one of the exposure, so when you set an exposure of e.g. 3 seconds, the app will look like if it's stuck and refresh every 3s.
I am not responsible for any damage that your phone might report. I've been using this app for a long time and everything works fine.
You can download the .apk file and the source code at the bottom. To install the app you only need the .apk file, the source code is for developers who wish to improve the code.
Check the difference between a manual camera downloaded from the play store and my app (the pics are resized here).
Click on the images to enlarge.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
How did I do it?
I exploited the fact that the older versions of Lcamera by PkmX allowed up to 1/1.2 seconds of exposure time (probably because the nexus 5x wasn't supported yet), so I downloaded the source of lcamera 0.3 by PkmX, modified a few lines of code and compiled it.
The exposure times of my modded app are: 5s, 4s, 3s, 2s, 1.5s, 1s, 0.5s, 0.23 s, ... and so on, up to 1/120000 s (the default minimum value) and you can change them in the settings of the app.
Why not more than 5 seconds?
Because the app gets really unstable, since those exposure times are not officially "hardware" supported.
EDIT: a user suggested here that the app might be stable for even longer exposures with a longer kernel readahead.
Beware that the app can be unstable even with exposure times longer than 3 seconds: if it starts crashing, just terminate it in the settings. I usually set the exposure time back to 1/10 s every time I close the app, otherwise the following times it might just crash when entering in it.
Therefore, with this app you can get some beautiful night pictures, the drawback is that sometimes it might be unstable (because those exposures are not hardware supported).
What did I modify?
In src/pkmx/lcamera/MainActivity.scala I've modified lines 417, 419, 693 and deleted the line 1083. You can download my source code at the bottom, the original source code from github and compare them, to see in more detail which are the differences.
I've also modified the app icon with one that I've personally designed.
Thank you and have fun

The first one is Google camera and the second is from your app

TW1ST3D1NS4N3 said:
The first one is Google camera and the second is from your app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my app, tap on the magenta settings button, then on exposure and then de-select "Auto Exposure" and decrease the value of shooting time from 1/10 to something like 1-2, you will see what a difference.

Thanks for this.
Is it possible to force ISO to a lower value than 60?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

oldskuler said:
Thanks for this.
Is it possible to force ISO to a lower value than 60?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, in the app the lowest possible iso is set to 40, but the camera doesn't go below 60, so I think it's not possible. Anyway 60 is already very low and the noise shouldn't be much, so I don't know if an even lower iso would actually bring some benefits.

Good job. Some questions and tips for your code. Haven't tried the app though as my phone is getting repaired.
Why use a base of 60s? Wouldn't it have been easier to just use a 10s base instead of 60s for val exposureTime? Then you would only have needed to multiply the values by 10 in exposureTimeMap instead of 60 (and also add your values, 2 for 5s, 2.5 for 4s and so on). You also seem to be missing the base 1/60s exposure, don't know if that matters though.
Remove the line prefs.exposureTimeIndex = exposureTimeIndex() from onStop(), this will stop the manual exposure getting saved when closing the app (hence you don't need to change it back before closing).
Try replacing the line (not sure if this code will work but you probably notice what I'm trying to do)
Code:
observe { exposureTimeIndex foreach { v => text = s"60/${new DecimalFormat("#.#").format(exposureTimeMap(v))}" } }
with
Code:
observe { exposureTimeIndex foreach { v => text = if (v > 5) s"1/${new DecimalFormat("#.#").format(exposureTimeMap(v)/60)}" else s"${new DecimalFormat("#.#").format(60/exposureTimeMap(v))}s" } }
for a nicer display of the exposure times. Obviously change the value of 60 if you decide to change the base value.
EDIT: You should also be able to fix the rotation by implementing this commit in your code. Might also know how to "fix" the preview as well so the refresh rate doesn't go below a certain rate, but don't want to take away all the fun from you.

Nice, should be great for shooting auroras.

So flash the source first then install apk? Apk alone would not take a picture.

Travisdroidx2 said:
So flash the source first then install apk? Apk alone would not take a picture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Source is the sourcecode of the apk...
You don't have to flash anything,

CazeW said:
Why use a base of 60s? Wouldn't it have been easier to just use a 10s base instead of 60s for val exposureTime? Then you would only have needed to multiply the values by 10 in exposureTimeMap instead of 60 (and also add your values, 2 for 5s, 2.5 for 4s and so on). You also seem to be missing the base 1/60s exposure, don't know if that matters though.
Remove the line prefs.exposureTimeIndex = exposureTimeIndex() from onStop(), this will stop the manual exposure getting saved when closing the app (hence you don't need to change it back before closing).
Try replacing the line (not sure if this code will work but you probably notice what I'm trying to do)
Code:
observe { exposureTimeIndex foreach { v => text = s"60/${new DecimalFormat("#.#").format(exposureTimeMap(v))}" } }
with
Code:
observe { exposureTimeIndex foreach { v => text = if (v > 5) s"1/${new DecimalFormat("#.#").format(exposureTimeMap(v)/60)}" else s"${new DecimalFormat("#.#").format(60/exposureTimeMap(v))}s" } }
for a nicer display of the exposure times. Obviously change the value of 60 if you decide to change the base value.
EDIT: You should also be able to fix the rotation by implementing this commit in your code. Might also know how to "fix" the preview as well so the refresh rate doesn't go below a certain rate, but don't want to take away all the fun from you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the suggestions! Well I choose a base 60 because it is divisible by 5,4,3,2,1, so I could avoid using "double" values for the exposures and I didn't have to worry about the digit precision, but yes I've modified the code as you suggested to have a better looking exposure time in the app, with some small differences; now it's like 5 s, 4 s, ..., 1/2 s, 1/4.3 s, ... and I've also modified a bit the shorter exposures and added back the 1/60 one.
I've also deleted the line that saves the exposure preference.
I've checked the rotation commit but it is for a newer version of Lcamera, so there are many differences in the code.
Of course any suggestion on how to fix it in my app or how to change the "screen refresh rate" is welcome , as long as it doesn't imply to modify more than a few (let's say 30) lines of code, unless you want to do it yourself.
tauio111 said:
Nice, should be great for shooting auroras.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, also to shoot the night sky. Nice picture by the way!
tauio111 said:
Source is the sourcecode of the apk...
You don't have to flash anything,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly

enryea123 said:
Thank you for the suggestions! Well I choose a base 60 because it is divisible by 5,4,3,2,1, so I could avoid using "double" values for the exposures and I didn't have to worry about the digit precision, but yes I've modified the code as you suggested to have a better looking exposure time in the app, with some small differences; now it's like 5 s, 4 s, ..., 1/2 s, 1/4.3 s, ... and I've also modified a bit the shorter exposures and added back the 1/60 one.
I've also deleted the line that saves the exposure preference.
I've checked the rotation commit but it is for a newer version of Lcamera, so there are many differences in the code.
Of course any suggestion on how to fix it in my app or how to change the "screen refresh rate" is welcome , as long as it doesn't imply to modify more than a few (let's say 30) lines of code, unless you want to do it yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looked closer at the commit and you're right, would take a bit of work to implement it in the older version.
I'm not sure but this might be the part that handles the refresh rate of the screen.
Code:
val startPreview =
for { (cameraOpt, previewSurfaceOpt, previewSessionOpt, autoFocus, focusDistance, autoExposure, iso, exposureTime, metering)
<- Rx {(this.camera(), this.previewSurface(), this.previewSession(),
this.autoFocus(), this.focusDistance(),
this.autoExposure(), this.iso(), this.exposureTime(), this.metering())}
Inside that for you could put in an if that checks if this.exposureTime() is less than for example 1/5s, then use a constant of 1/5s instead of this.exposureTime().
I also might have found a way to get the newer version to be able to use slower shutter speeds. The problem I think is this code on line 699.
Code:
val validExposureTimes = Rx { lcamera().toList flatMap { camera => exposureTimes filter { camera.exposureTimeRange contains _ }} }
Which is a list of exposure times the sensor supports. Now, if we set this equal to the var exposureTimes, I think we should be able to use the longer exposure times. I don't know if straight val validExposureTimes = exposureTimes works or if you have to convert the Vector to a List first, haven't programmed in scala before. I would try this out myself if I had a phone to test it on.

Thanks for the mod. Here are my results compared to Google's HDR+

CazeW said:
Looked closer at the commit and you're right, would take a bit of work to implement it in the older version.
I'm not sure but this might be the part that handles the refresh rate of the screen.
Code:
val startPreview =
for { (cameraOpt, previewSurfaceOpt, previewSessionOpt, autoFocus, focusDistance, autoExposure, iso, exposureTime, metering)
<- Rx {(this.camera(), this.previewSurface(), this.previewSession(),
this.autoFocus(), this.focusDistance(),
this.autoExposure(), this.iso(), this.exposureTime(), this.metering())}
Inside that for you could put in an if that checks if this.exposureTime() is less than for example 1/5s, then use a constant of 1/5s instead of this.exposureTime().
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I managed to set the preview to be updated every 1/10s by creating another variable "exposureTimePreview", BUT this way on the screen you don't see the actual brightness that the picture is going to have, but the one that it would have if the exposure time was actually 1/10, so it is not very handy and it's better to just leave it how it is now.
CazeW said:
I also might have found a way to get the newer version to be able to use slower shutter speeds. The problem I think is this code on line 699.
Code:
val validExposureTimes = Rx { lcamera().toList flatMap { camera => exposureTimes filter { camera.exposureTimeRange contains _ }} }
Which is a list of exposure times the sensor supports. Now, if we set this equal to the var exposureTimes, I think we should be able to use the longer exposure times. I don't know if straight val validExposureTimes = exposureTimes works or if you have to convert the Vector to a List first, haven't programmed in scala before. I would try this out myself if I had a phone to test it on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That line of code only exists in the latest source code on github, I'm using an older version, which in fact doesn't have that line (this missing line is probably the reason I could select longer exposures). I can even set exposures longer than 5 seconds, if they are between 6 and 9 the phone is likely to crash, but if they are 10s or longer the camera just seems to get crazy and some weird "moving purple shapes" are displayed on the screen.

Dark Emotion said:
Thanks for the mod. Here are my results compared to Google's HDR+
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the feedback!

enryea123 said:
Well, I managed to set the preview to be updated every 1/10s by creating another variable "exposureTimePreview", BUT this way on the screen you don't see the actual brightness that the picture is going to have, but the one that it would have if the exposure time was actually 1/10, so it is not very handy and it's better to just leave it how it is now.
That line of code only exists in the latest source code on github, I'm using an older version, which in fact doesn't have that line (this missing line is probably the reason I could select longer exposures). I can even set exposures longer than 5 seconds, if they are between 6 and 9 the phone is likely to crash, but if they are 10s or longer the camera just seems to get crazy and some weird "moving purple shapes" are displayed on the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's why I suggested to use an if, so that when the exposure time becomes unreasonably long (like 1s or more) you use a constant refresh rate which would at least help with the framing. When the exposure time is faster, you of course use that as your refresh rate.
EDIT: You could also then bump up the ISO sensitivity for the preview so that you would still see the actual brightness of the picture (or at least close to it). For example, you want to take a picture that uses ISO 100 and 1s exposure. You lock the refresh rate at 1/4s and bump the ISO for the preview to 400 to compensate for the 2 stops slower refresh rate, and you should end up with an equally bright preview as what the picture will look like. (I think this is what most cameras do.)
I know that line of code only exists in the latest source code. What I meant is that if you edit that line, you might be able to use that version for your mod.

CazeW said:
That's why I suggested to use an if, so that when the exposure time becomes unreasonably long (like 1s or more) you use a constant refresh rate which would at least help with the framing. When the exposure time is faster, you of course use that as your refresh rate.
EDIT: You could also then bump up the ISO sensitivity for the preview so that you would still see the actual brightness of the picture (or at least close to it). For example, you want to take a picture that uses ISO 100 and 1s exposure. You lock the refresh rate at 1/4s and bump the ISO for the preview to 400 to compensate for the 2 stops slower refresh rate, and you should end up with an equally bright preview as what the picture will look like. (I think this is what most cameras do.)
I know that line of code only exists in the latest source code. What I meant is that if you edit that line, you might be able to use that version for your mod.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, I didn't understand what you meant. Those are some interesting improvements, I will consider them in the future for sure (right now I don't have much free time to spend on this project).

great job well done i was waiting for this
it would be great to add timer future to this app

enryea123 said:
In my app, tap on the magenta settings button, then on exposure and then de-select "Auto Exposure" and decrease the value of shooting time from 60/1000 to something like 60/60, you will see what a difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the noob question. When turning off auto exposure you have two options to change. The s and iso, what do you recommend for both? I do not get the 60/60. Thank you for the mods. I am sure when I get it set correctly it will work great.

Travisdroidx2 said:
Sorry for the noob question. When turning off auto exposure you have two options to change. The s and iso, what do you recommend for both? I do not get the 60/60. Thank you for the mods. I am sure when I get it set correctly it will work great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's first make sure of a couple things: do you have the nexus 5x? have you downloaded the last version of my app? To make sure you did, download it again now. (you get the "60/60" only in the old app, in the new one it is written as "1 s").
The "s" is the exposure time, which is the time the shutter will stay opened to capture the light (in fact the "s" stands for seconds). The iso is the sensitivity of the camera but it is directly related to noise (higher iso = higher noise).
So, I recommend to keep the exposure time as long as possible (like 3-4-5 seconds) and lower the iso until you get the right photo brightess.

enryea123 said:
Let's first make sure of a couple things: do you have the nexus 5x? have you downloaded the last version of my app? To make sure you did, download it again now. (you get the "60/60" only in the old app, in the new one it is written as "1 s").
The "s" is the exposure time, which is the time the shutter will stay opened to capture the light (in fact the "s" stands for seconds). The iso is the sensitivity of the camera but it is directly related to noise (higher iso = higher noise).
So, I recommend to keep the exposure time as long as possible (like 3-4-5 seconds) and lower the iso until you get the right photo brightess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for explaining this. And yes I have the 5x and it is the new version of the app. Thank you for explaining this!

Related

[APP] Official LG Stock (& AOSP) Camera Update [DEODEXED][MULTI-VARIANT]

What's New:
"The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them." - xdabbeb
Instructions:
1) Do a backup in recovery, or backup the original files to be overwritten (check ZIP for names).
2) Flash.
AOSP
1) Flash.
NOTE: If these work on your variant and it's not on the list below, let us know so we can add it.
STOCK ROM
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed (Mirror)
AOSP-based ROM (EXPERIMENTAL)
DOWNLOAD - v2
DOWNLOAD - v1
AOSP-based ROM Notes
The low-light FPS increase may not be in effect.
Burst is not working (but is available and may cause issues).
The intelligent auto does not work in low-lighting.
FC occurs when switching to front-camera, or using Panorama settings.
Confirmed Variants for Stock:
F320KE11
VS98011A (VZW)
D802A
D802B
LS980 (Sprint)
D800
Confirmed Variants for AOSP-based:
D802B
D803
D800 (AT&T)
LG Optimus 2x (P990)
Confirmed ROMs for Stock:
Stock rooted on all confirmed variants.
Malladus (VZW)
Grievous (D800)
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.3):
AOSP
HeatshiverSX (AOKP)
OSE (VZW)
Carbon
PACman
PA
Slim ROM
CM10.2
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.4):
PA
Gummy (VZW)
CM11
SlimKat
LucidPhusion
Create a Flashable ZIP Backup
1) If you would like to make a ZIP backup simply download the ZIP file for the update and make a copy.
2) Download a file explorer like ES Explorer or Root Explorer.
3) Open up the update ZIP and look at all the names of the folders, those will be mimicked in your phone's system folder.
4) Check the files within the folders of the update ZIP and note all the names, these will also be mimicked in your phone.
5) Use your file explorer and copy all the mimicked files in your phone to your SD card.
6) Connect your phone to your PC.
7) Move all your files to somewhere easily accessible.
8) Open (do not extract) the update ZIP copy with 7z or WinRAR.
9) Go into each folder (except META-INF) and copy over the files from your phone to the update ZIP copy.
10) Once you are done you now have a flashable ZIP to revert back to your previous state.
Camera NOT Showing in 4.3/4.4 Fix
If the AOSP camera is not appearing in the app drawer, first stop the camera that comes with the ROM, clear that camera's data, and then disable it. Reboot the phone and the AOSP camera should now be present. If it is not, then it is likely disabled. Re-enable it and that should get it to display.
Credits: xdabbeb, sefnap, Jishnu Sur
Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??
Tried this on the Sprint version. Didn't work. First time I installed the apks my phone did a boot loop twice and updated Android. Then I copied all the files into the other locations now my camera FC.
Sent from my LG-LS980 using xda app-developers app
edangel said:
Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java
Thinking about trying this. I'll be smart and nandroid. I'll let you know in about 30 minutes. I'm att
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4
I was in the process of making some flashable additions for "my" ROM so here goes a flashable update and one to revert.
It removes and adds the necessary files.
Here's a flashable restore: http://www.adrive.com/public/bZgr7H/LGCamera_Restore.zip
If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.
This did work for me. I over wrote all the files and changed their permissions then deleted the odex files for the gallery and camera. The video focus is not fixed so not really worth the time IMO but thanks for sharing!!
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4
I'm playing with it and I've noticed no difference. I'm still getting watercolor photos.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
great work!thx
Looks like viewfinder now is less laggy. And at last i got the menu like in all reviews, before i had a strange Verizon moded camera without pics in menu and without Auto Flash in A.I. mode.
Anyway need to test it in low light conditions in the evening.
xdabbeb said:
If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, just wanted to know if you have any comment on this particular post someone made in another thread regarding the camera:
ZigZagJoe said:
TL;DR: Use sports mode. If desperate, try forcing ISO to 800.
Did some more testing of the camera. Sports mode does indeed bias towards faster shutter speeds - usually seems to pick ISO 400 where normal/auto would have used a shutter speed two stops slower and ISO 100. If sports mode is not cutting it, set ISO 800 and hope. If you don't get it at ISO 800, you won't get it with the default camera app. Some third party apps (I tried FV-5) allow you to specify ISO 1600, but image quality will be even worse. Really, just get a real camera out or get into better lighting.
Something else I have to mention is if you are using the modified camera app, if the guy did indeed manage to modify the actual amplification levels, what he did will reduce performance in regards to capturing moving objects as it will force a slower shutter speed - not entirely sure that guy knows what he is monkeying with.
My personal theory on the slow focus in low light is its being caused by the camera dropping below 1/30th of a second shutter speeds in favor of getting a proper exposure to be able focus precisely. If this is the case, forcing it to underexpose to get a smooth preview and faster focus could result in it being unable to focus.
There is a workaround for that, though, and focusing on moving objects: use the manual focus feature LG was so kind to include and set it to infinity focus. As long as you are about 3 feet or more from the object being photographed, everything will be in focus and there will be no shutter lag.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Who is this ZigZagJoe Elite Recognized Dev?? If he thinks I'm a noob, please fix all the problems of the camera. Seems like He made the camera for the LG G2. If you did, man you are a bad engineer! !
Heatshiver said:
and provides a simple method to turn off the camera click sound.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not working in my f320k. Camera ver. 4.3.1
javahuan said:
Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks...deleting the odex files made camera working..
@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
 @KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.
Heatshiver said:
@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
@KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Image quality definitely gets worse as ISO increases - saturation and fine detail take a dive off a cliff, to say nothing of noise. Fine detail loss is then compounded by overzealous noise reduction. Quality loss is more noticeable in these cameras due to the tiny sensor.
Yes, it makes sense that sports mode would increase shutter speed, but without documentation to that effect, who knows what it might do? For all I knew it could just be applying filters and/or changing WB like the other modes seem to do. Not sure what landscape mode does, even. Probably modifies saturation. Exposure settings increasing and decreasing framerate would make sense as it'd be changing exposure by decreasing/increasing shutter speed. Only time you'd have things out of focus is if they are closer than 3 feet, which is the approximate hyperfocal length for these sensor/lens combinations. One of the only blessings of such a small sensor....
Misc data, the phone is able to capture at 1/10000 of a second if conditions permit - ie. taking a picture of a light bulb. Might be able to go a bit faster; some images has the speed recorded as 1/INT_MAX. 1/6s seems to be the minimum shutter speed.
If autofocus was made a bit more "brave", ie. bigger focus steps, it could help, at the expense of focus precision. Could possibly be gotten away with as focus doesn't need to be hyper precise on these things anyways. Trade offs no matter how you go though - you either get slow, but accurate AF, faster but less accurate AF, or fast AF that can't focus (minimum FPS raised). A bandaid fix would be to have the flash LED turn on and be used as an AF-assist lamp for focusing in low light always instead of only when flash is enabled. Of course, wouldn't help when the object isn't in range, but still an improvement.
@ZigZagJoe
Unfortunately, that's not how ISO works. An ISO increase increases noise, it does not desaturate or deteriorate fine detail. Quality is also not saturation. A person who knows about and performs color correction does not saturate a photo as it will hinder quality in post. That isn't to say that is what quality is. If saturation is how you like your pictures, that's fine, but that lends to a personal definition (albeit common) of quality, not a technical definition of quality. I would imagine it is pretty hard to determine detail loss if noise is covering it up to begin with? It would have to be drastically different for that to be apparent. Maybe you are mistaking compression artifacts for noise? Quality is about bitrates, the higher the bitrate the less compression artifacts, which means the better the detail. In either case, the ISO is not making it worse. So it is either bitrate variation you are talking about, or the post-processing system of the camera. The sensor is tiny, but that doesn't mean much other than more ISO noise than a larger sensor. If it did, then a 5DMKII would look leaps and bounds better than a 7D, but it doesn't. It is a matter of hardware. I can name two phones from last year with near-identical sized sensors, but their quality is vastly different.
I am not going to go over the modes as they do have purposes, but they will take a long time to explain. If you have used any basic cameras of the last decade you should know what they do. Manufacturers rarely deviate from these modes other than by name. Besides, the best photographers use the manual mode.
Exposure value would not just affect shutter speeds but ISO settings as well (as evident through simple testing). It should also affect aperture, but cameras on phones have a fixed aperture. However, while shutter speeds are initially changed on this phone, they stay constant. ISO then varies depending on the lighting situation. I took 4 videos of 2 locations, all at 30fps, two at +2 EV, and two at -2 EV, and each set in a light and near-black (dark) area. The results were that the light +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of compression artifacts from a bitrate of 13+MB/s. The dark +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of noise. The light -2 changed to 24fps and showed much less compression artifacts at a bitrate of 17+MB/s. The dark -2 showed almost nothing at all, but the tiny emitting lights that were shown were smooth. These were all done with this mod and no focus issues were present.
I think the true issue with auto-focus primarily stems from IOS. This is the first 13MP to have it, so it's bound to have some kinks (hence the need for an update).
The more important issue is that people all want to complain about a camera phone. And when someone like @Jishnu Sur wants to help out, people insert the comments with false or half-truth information that others take as fact. Some could argue that there is no harm if just speculating, but smarter people know better. The bottom line is that the camera is great as it is. If you want a better AF, get a real camera. But those who get a real camera, and know how to use them, already know that manual focus is the way to go.
I hope this helps clear some things up, but any further comments should be left to PM or back on the thread where this actually started as I want this to be for the updated camera. Continuing this discussion is in part the fault of @KassaNovaKaine for bringing this up instead of just using a PM, and mine for wanting to correct it.
Been testing this update, and it is a vast improvement!
I had a chance so sift through the updated libs, etc., and have made a flashable zip with all the updated files.
This probably should have its own thread, but it doesn't make sense to create more clutter. @Heatshiver, if you don't mind, could you please update the title stating that this is the F320K11E Stock Camera + libs and remove the original download (as it was incomplete) to avoid any confusion. Actually, it would probably be a good idea to quote all of this as well so people don't have to read/search through the whole thread. I don't mind that you started it, as long as you field all the support questions
I have tested this on my VS98011A and it is a marked improvement over the original. All of my comments are in relation to that version of the software/camera.
What's new:
The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them.
Instructions:
1) Do a nandroid, or see which files are being updated and manually back them up.
2) See #1. If you mess something up you'll wish you had.
3) Flash away. I tested this with TWRP on a VS98011A and it works perfectly.
4) If you have another variant, let us know here whether or not it works.
F320K11E Camera Update
*I will also send the files along to Jishnu separately for inclusion/analysis in his mod.
So, loss of detail. For an example, have a look at this comparison. Less severe in larger sensors (IE. DSLRs) and more severe in smaller sensors, you know, what phones use. To what degree detail is lost depends on the severity of processing. Noise obscuring detail = detail loss. NR processing smoothing the image = more detail loss. Safe to say, higher ISO, more detail lost.
Saturation - essentially, color purity. I'm not referring to manipulation of saturation. A washed out image lacks saturation. Yes, it is moronic to equate saturation = quality. But, my personal preference doesn't enter into this at all. Is color information lost in an ISO 3200 image when compared an ISO 100 image? Yes. To what degree depends on the sensor and processing performed. Most dedicated cameras keep it fairly well in check, but phones tend to have serious issues with saturation at higher ISOs (also, Foveon sensors).
It does depend on the sensor pedigree, though - for instance, nikon's midrange APS-C sensors handle their noise a lot better than canon's 18mp-based offerings. So for phones to have different image quality is not unexpected.
Uh, JPG artifacting is way different than noise, and we were not even talking about compression in the first place?
Modes - don't care what the other ones are for, I was simply mentioning their presence. Don't ever use them on my real camera, but don't exactly have a choice in regards to phone. I was unable to get any sort of significant difference out of sports mode when I first tried it.... rest of the modes seem to be purely post processing related, for all I know LG made sports mode the same way. Later, checking EXIF info, I did see it changing shutter speed and ISO, favoring faster shutter speeds, which is the expected behavior, it's just not got much leeway for adjustment.
If ISO isn't already maxed (you know, like it is in low-light situations), yes, exposure control could be adjusting ISO too. But in the context of preview in low light, the exposure control directly affects the preview FPS, so it can only be adjusting shutter speed as ISO is already maxed. Would expect a similar effect on video but haven't tested it. Autofocus speed is directly linked to preview FPS, which is in turn limited by shutter speed (currently).

[APP][2.2.3+/3.2+/4.0+] Smart Selfie - Facial Recognition Voice Guidance

Smart selfie is a FREE voice-guided photography app that use facial recognition to help you take better selfies with the back camera of your phone by giving voice prompts on how to adjust the phone, such as moving it left, right, away, up, etc so that photo participants are well centered in your photos.
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Latest Version is now 1.14. Some pretty exciting features added to make the app easier to use.
1.1.4
*Measure beta (Now gives the size of the movement for up, down, left, right.) *Measure beta now supports Eyeliner mode.
*New Camera settings added - Picture Quality and Picture Size.
*Crash fixes and optimization when taking photos.
*Moved to a new UI. Presets, Detection settings and Camera settings have been moved into the Action Bar and appear as icons.
*Minor bug fixes.
*Redid some voice guidance recordings.
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///////////////////////////////////
Normally, to use the better quality and higher resolution camera on the back of your phone to take selfies requires a lot guesswork as you cannot see front screen of your camera
You also need to clumsily click the screen to take the actual photo.
Smart selfie can identify one or multiple faces, then direct the user to move the phone position so that is is in the optimal position. It will then automatically take the photo once your camera is in position.
Another great advantage is not all android smart phones have a front camera so this app would be perfect for owners of such phones to take selfies.
Current selfie apps in the android market simply switch to the lower quality front camera as a default or they might have features that will take photos when your whistle or provide voice commands. This is a rather cumbersome way to take selfies. Some may have a library of cool photos filters and effects, but these do not actually assist in taking the actual photos.
At the time of writing ICS (4.0) is required for full functionality. With 4.0 you can automatically take photos and share them online via social networking sites or pass the photo to other apps for further enhancements.
The core functions will run at 3.2 or higher. The app will lack the ability to share photos if your OS is less than 4.0
For those running and OS between 2.2 and 3.1. You will get the full facial detection and voice guidance feature, however the photo must be taken manually once the camera is in position. (This may be changed in the future.)
Limitations of this version:
*5MP max image taken on back Camera (if your phone is capable of higher resolutions photos will be taken at 5MP)
*Detect Up to 4 people.
Requirements
Min Requirements CPU: 800mhz OS: 2.3+
Recommended Requirements CPU:Quad Core 1Ghz+ OS: 4.0+
Other Requirements: You device needs to have a back camera!!!!!!
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That aside at the moment the UI is a train-wreck, the core functionality seems to work well. Feel free to download the app, take a few selfies and provide feedback to see how it works on different devices.
In additional i would like you know how you feel about:
1) The voice guidance quality? This was taken from several recordings done on an android phone in relatively noisy conditions, I had all sort of background noises like light aeroplanes, garbage trucks, bird tweeting, clothes dryer, strong wind, traffic, and some paper rustling.
2) Do you think it app takes too long to take a selfie?
3) The limitations are they ok? This app allows better quality selfies even on new devices like Samsung galaxy 5, which sports a 2MP front camera.
4) Any other feedback/comments/tips?
Smart selfie Free is available on the google play store the package is
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.aidedesk.smartselfie
Happy Snapping !!!!
@hotspot_volcano link?
Sent from Galaxy Note 3 SM-N9005 Stock: 4.4.2 Rooted
the settings should stay between taking multiple pictures & there should be some notification once the picture got taken/
Wait a min
Do you mean a front camera or what? (actually a back camera?)
Sorry but i didnt get the concept...
starcallr said:
the settings should stay between taking multiple pictures & there should be some notification once the picture got taken/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
It did say "say cheese" and I got a picture, but no click, no "how lovely!" or other indication.
This thing is really ingenious, quite nifty, and did work even on my 600mhz single-core-clunker. Voice instructions were on the quiet side (could explain why some users missed them).
The UI could be more modern, but so simple and adequate as-is. But do make it persistent. And the option, at least, to automatically find the up-to four faces without need to ask, might be nice as well.
Selfies with only a rear camera? Got it :good:
You got a very interesting app. But it needs some pruning though. Can you put it in video mode, and user just angles the phone for a selfie, and your app takes a snap automatically when the faces are focussed. Since its a selfie, you know that the face has to be like 30% to 70% of screen area. User opens app, points the back camera at themselves, and tilts the phone in a few angles. You select the best shot automatically. Its just an idea. You would know better
additional suggestions,
apart from wat these people are saying as a suggestions, i have some of my own. but i tried this app and i find this great..only 2 aditional things:
voice guidance should be louder..and (if possible), have proper diction. i have trouble recognizing the voice guide on my phone because volume is a bit low. i tried to use an earphone while testing to take a selfie..and i had trouble when the command says "left" because the female voice's diction sounds like "lift". atleast put an option to adjust voice guide volume..or let it be controllable with volume buttons (you know which of the 2 is the best).
This app does ake decent shots after guiding you. But, please add adequate lighting sensor, or at least the ability for the voice guide to tell you to turn on flash if the lighting condition is low..something like that. i hope you get the idea.
that's all..this is an innovtive app..but as always, there's always room for improvement.
Awesome App
This app is awesome. It even works on 600 MHz phone. And selfies are great. But there should be a click sound to notify user that the picture has been taken. and moreover there should be option to delete the pic directly. Good job @hotspot_volcano :good:
Hope to see changes in next version.
Kill it! Kill it with fire!
Thanks for the feedback from starcallr and Dovidhalevi. I've implemented some of them.
Just released v1.08 after having a lot of fun getting Android v23 installed, took several hours installing and uninstalling after that to get things to compile once i figured out the missing files.
Anyway from the feedback I've made some changes.
*New detection feature: Added Face Zoom (Allows close-up, or further-away selfies.)
*Ability to change volume more easily.
*All settings remembered from previous session.
*Popup reminder showing settings shown at the start of each photo session.
*More audible photo capture sound. (The click is 10X louder now.) But I might replace the audio click with some voice prompt so it would be 3X louder still without sounding out-of place.
#to do list (over the next week)
*Unified settings. All settings appear together in one Alert Dialog. (15% done) Attached a quick layout.. tell me what you think.
*Flash available for low lighting (as for detection it may need a low light facial detection feature which may i may only put in the paid version)
*A delete feature to delete the just taken photo.
*Auto-detect orientation (25% done)
*Fix up app crash after you have successfully taken a photo on your default camera app when you try and return to Smart Selfie on Android OS 2.2 - 3.1
#planned tidbits (over then next year)
*5 or so detection features(paid version probably), most of these will need OpenCV. (The very first version of this app was in OpenCV + NDK)
*Augment Reality features, maybe hats, sunglasses, hair and stuff that would be visible on the screen and automatically placed on detected faces, and would appear in the final photo when taken
=============================
I have tested earlier versions in public places it and the audio is already boosted up ~15db on average. I did have a silly idea of a vibrate morse code which could be used in extremely noisy places. Something like a short + short vibrate for left, short + long vibrate for right. The vibrate wont affect detection as won't be detecting when the vibrations are occurring. But not going to give it a go for now. Flashlight style Flash to give directions might also work, if it doesn't give people epilepsy.
Use of a Bluetooth headset might also be possible for very noisy places.
The UI is old fashion, i've been away from Android a while so Holo Light is giving me serious grief. Thinking about using Action Bar to replace the missing menu and avoid the LGPLv3 HoloEverywhere library. When i do set minimum APK.. the layouts go half sized. Anyway I'd like to concentrate on features at this stage.
There are apps like mine on Windows phone and IOS and I'd like to be the most comprehensive selfie app out there.
As for not requiring to input the right amount of people at the start. The app at the moment will center the detected faces the ask the user to move the camera away to a certain point in hope that the missing people will appear in the screen eventually? If they don't then you get stuck in a loop. But i will consider an auto (at your own risk setting)
WAY better than the previous version/
Amazing App!!
Amazing app!! Lovin it so much!! but ui need to be updated.. Other than that it's a great app for selfie!!!! Really a great job!! @hotspot_volcano
chitrank said:
Amazing app!! Lovin it so much!! but ui need to be updated.. Other than that it's a great app for selfie!!!! Really a great job!! @hotspot_volcano
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks guys the next version is going to be much better. I'm actually quite excited about the next version.
Having spent more time thinking about what to put in the next version, it will have:
*Beginners/Casual Mode (Balance Sensitivity). If you don't mind your face not being perfectly centered in the photo.You can take photos quickly with little hassle. Detected faces will always appear within the photo with no parts cropped off at the side or top of the photo no matter what setting sensitivity is selected.
You can crank it up or down depending on your selfie taking skills and you/your groups patience in taking the perfect selfie.
*A slight change to the voice guidance algorithm. Hopefully this will stop the left right loop if you start with the phone too close to your face. For best results at the moment always start with the phone about 1/2 meter from your face.
*Fix any settings that don't appear to be saved properly. (I'm getting some issues with Preview Size changes sometimes not saving as expected?)
*Delete photo feature option. (Complete, but just don't ask when Windows 7 RTPing you see the deleted ghost files on 4.4 builds?)
*Unified settings. (getting there)
*Increased volume? Most recordings was set to 90% loudness. I'll experimental with increasing them to 100%. Anyway for noisy places I highly recommended using a portable Bluetooth speaker ones that are small enough to be slipped into your pocket.
My flagship test device is the Moto G which is one of the loudest android phones in the market. With speakers pumping out ~87 dB. Most of the commands was fairly audible even in packed and noisy food-court using the default speakers found on back of the phone.
Thanks for the great feedback guys.. Made a few changes in the most recent update. Plus a few more sites decided to showcase my app taking my app over 1000 downloads, and getting myself a small amount of people to test my app to make sure it works and all.
I'm planning a media launch soon as the app is nearly getting there. Have to rewrite my promotional material which was based on the very first version.
The paid version is no where is sight. The free version features that need to be sorted and taking up a lot of time.
The next update is going to be fairly exciting. These are the planned changes.
*An amazing useability feature that makes taking selfies even easier. It will be available on the free version because it would be probably make the free version cripple-wear if i just added it to the paid version. :angel:
*Auto-detect orientation (Yes this got pushed back.. working on it)
*Flash available for low lighting (Yes this got pushed back.. working on it)
*Attempt to fix submitted bug reports.
*UI (Holo light UI - no guarantees which means probably not :silly
*Continue to update the website so people can just use google translate to read the HELP and TUTORIAL notes in their preferred language.
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binu.udaya;54334510. Can you put it in video mode said:
I'm not too familiar with the hardware side of android as far as video mode is concerned, but i was always under the impression you would get lower resolutions under video mode. Moving the camera while taking a photo will cause motion blur.
Well there are already apps out there that do this.I though they just took 3 shots in quick succession. I could probably add such a feature, but i think the photo is pretty accurate. Especially on the higher settings of Face Balance.
Just to give you idea how accurate the balance is. Just say are taking a portrait photo. Your 4.5" screen displays has a preview image that is 5cm across on the screen. If the gap between the face and the left-side of the picture is 1.5cm then the right-hand side gap between the face and the right-side of the picture can not have a difference more than 0.225cm.
I don't know how many people can get a selfie balanced to 1/4 of a cm by looking at their screen. I'm more surprised if they can get that accuracy without looking it and not get any voice guidance.
FYI the v1.08 fixed settings would have required a difference less than 0.3cm based on the above criteria. So if you managed to get a few snaps off at on the v1.08 thats how well balanced your photos are.
That is why i added the Balance sensitivity, the crazy accuracy is not required in all situations. Takes a few dozen shots before you built up the experience to take photos at that level.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1.1.3 is an amazing new update!!!!!! Manage to squeeze in a bunch of features.
Finally manage to roll out the amazing useability feature Measure. Which provides a size of the movement in addition to the direction. Unfortunately i didn't really have to the time to extend the feature to up and down.
*Presets now available. Pick and choose different presets such as using a selfie stick; propping your camera against say a book then you walk away, photos are taken automatically when your in position; taking photos from different angles such as the Baby face selfie where the camera angle gives the illusion of bigger eyes.
*Eyeliner. Allows the vertical alignment of eyes in your photo. Gives a much larger variety of selfies you can take now.
*Voice Guidance speed is now adjustable. Set it faster if your more experience in using the app or lower if your new or English is not your first language.
*Website updated. All help information is available online and translatable into your preferred language. Link added to Playstore and accessible in app.
Whats in the next version?
*Crash bug fixed hopefully. Be focusing on why there are crashes when photos are taken. Made several changes already.
*Continue to work on Measure (UP,DOWN).. will also look at Measure( closer and away)
*Pickable Photo capture resolution.
*Pickable white Balance Mode (Maybe)
*Holo Light GUI (I'll take a look.. lol)
If you haven't already please try out Smart Selfie v1.1.3 and tell me what you think now?
v 1.14 took a bit longer than my general 7 day for an update but its finally here. Holo-Layout. Some people have been asking for it since v1.03
Forcing low resolution setting on high resolution devices was a MAJOR HEADACHE. Its still has a minor bug with half-sized screen randomly appearing but that's been around since v1.03. While i just moved to Holo layout, I don't want to know anything about Android L.
Lets take a look at our planned updates for v1.1.4 and what was done.
*Continue to work on Measure (UP,DOWN).. Measure Closer and Away (No plans for now)
*Pickable Photo capture resolution.
*Holo Light GUI (I'll take a look.. lol) - Seems Action tool bar works well for all versions of supported android.
*Crash bug fixed hopefully. Be focusing on why there are crashes when photos are taken. Made several changes already. Unfortunately once i started the UI I stopped working on crash fixes so more to come.
v 1.1.5 planned features
*Pickable white Balance Mode (soon i hope)
*A Custom Share Intent. Will be better than the stock one which may have problems with setting a default ShareIntent.
*Revisit and review code that may cause crashing when taking photos.
*In-app volume that does not change your current volume setting (ie not get blasted by the noise from other apps you run after smart selfie)
*General house-tidying of text strings in the app. One step towards the NOT planned in-app multi-language support.
*Creation of shared libraries. So that the paid version can re-branched.
*Small fixes to the UI where deemed necessary.
*Some sort of auto-orientation feature.
EDIT: Managed to get my hands on a LG P500 512 MB RAM, 3.2MP, 600mhz. Updated the rom to 4.04 onto it. Manage to take a photo without crashing though it took a while to show the photo.
The background wallpaper kind of leaks through into the app but i think its just the Rom.
If anyone have a device with 256mb ram try testing it and see if it causes any crashing (due to the lack of memory)

[APP][4.0.3+] Open Camera

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Open Camera is an Open Source camera app for Android that I've been working on.
Google Play: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.sourceforge.opencamera
Or install APK directly from: https://sourceforge.net/projects/opencamera/files/
Open Camera is also available on F-Droid.
Homepage: http://opencamera.org.uk/
Code: https://sourceforge.net/p/opencamera/code/
Features include:
- Option to auto-level using accelerometer so pictures are perfectly level.
- All the usual options like zoom, flash, focus modes (including a "manual" mode to only focus on touch), focus/metering areas, exposure lock, scene modes, color effects, white balance, ISO, exposure compensation, video recording.
- Options for timer and auto-repeated photo taking.
- Configurable volume keys (take picture, zoom, or change exposure compensation).
- Optional geotagging, including compass direction (GPSImgDirection, GPSImgDirectionRef).
- Option to optimise UI for left and right-handed users.
v1.47.3:
Auto-level feature (from v1.48):
I want to make Open Camera better, so bug reports and feature suggestions are most welcome (either email mark dot harman dot apps at gmail dot com, PM, at https://sourceforge.net/p/opencamera/discussion/ , or leaving a comment here).
Also a request for help: one of the challenges I've had is the wide variety of different cameras or camera drivers on different devices, and sometimes bugs happen that I can't reproduce on my devices. In particular I've had various reports of problems on Cyanogenmod. If any Android developers out there are willing to help out with investigating issues on any devices/platforms you encounter problems with, this will help Open Camera become a better camera app and I would greatly appreciate it Or simply sending me a logcat may help.
I have tried this before. It's an excellent app that takes great pictures.
I'm already using snap camera so have no need for it, but it is better than pretty much all the other apps in terms of picture quality except for a couple.
Im not too big on comparing the quality of vids and pics between camera apps, to my experience its usually around the same. However, what matters is functionality and I must say this app is really nice. Buttons with quick access to the functions, etc. Especially "exposure lock" i like!
However, it seriously falls behind on the visual part. I know that in a sense it doesn't matter but it's always a nice way to finish off a good app.
May I suggest something in style with the Samsung S5 camera app? (http://i.imgur.com/iy5w369.jpg)
Functions on the left side for easy access with left hand and then shutter button + video/photo mode button on the right.
Another little thing, how about a seperate shortcut for videomode ?
I'd suggest a feature that I only saw in snap camera and Moto X camera.
the touch to capture.
instead of only focusing on touch, focus and take the picture
Thanks for the comments, some great suggestions.
* I like the icons being along the top myself, but I'll add an option to have them go down the side for people who prefer that.
* An option for touch to capture sounds a good idea too.
Kocayine said:
Another little thing, how about a seperate shortcut for videomode ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can I clarify what you mean by this - there's an icon to switch between photo and video, or do you mean to change video resolution? Or something else?
mdwh said:
Can I clarify what you mean by this - there's an icon to switch between photo and video, or do you mean to change video resolution? Or something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, sorry, I was being unclear. I just mean in the launcher. A camera shortcut and a video shortcut.
Kocayine said:
Yeah, sorry, I was being unclear. I just mean in the launcher. A camera shortcut and a video shortcut.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That makes sense - have added it to the TODO.
Hi,
I just installing your camera and my first impression is :good:. It can detect wide resolution for my camera (16:9) where other competitor can't . For now I found bug related to save folder location, each time I open this setting app always tell path not found until I take one photo. Maybe because folder don't exists then app throw an error.
Anyway I didn't explore much this app but here some suggestion:
quick button to change resolution settings
quick button to change camera mode
Maybe HDR mode either software or hardware
Other suggestion will be added later :good:
hadi_rena said:
For now I found bug related to save folder location, each time I open this setting app always tell path not found until I take one photo. Maybe because folder don't exists then app throw an error.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oops yes, that's a bug in the new file chooser, I'll get a fix out for that.
I want to have more accessibility to other options, though need to think about how to do this (more icons means more clutter / running out of space) - possibly having a fully customised GUI, or a swipe down for more options, or other ideas are welcome.
Hardware HDR should be supported if it's offered as a scene mode by the device; doing it in software is something I may do in future.
mdwh said:
Oops yes, that's a bug in the new file chooser, I'll get a fix out for that.
I want to have more accessibility to other options, though need to think about how to do this (more icons means more clutter / running out of space) - possibly having a fully customised GUI, or a swipe down for more options, or other ideas are welcome.
Hardware HDR should be supported if it's offered as a scene mode by the device; doing it in software is something I may do in future.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I vote for swipe gesture to open more options. We can have 4 directions for swiping
Thanks for pointing out HDR mode in scene settings
Half-press to focus of the hardware button continuously triggers focus, which doesn't steadily lock.
Xperia S with 4.4 aosp.
very nice app.ty for alternate download link from playstore.(we dont all use gapps).
peace
err on the side of kindness
Really loving all the app so far, here's a few ideas/suggestions
Double tap anywhere/press and hold to auto focus + take picture (this is by far the feature i miss the most from my windows phone life, maybe im not the only one)
Option to mute annoying sounds
more and more obvious GUI feedback (like for when switching from picture<>video)
circle inside the glass square doesn't look that well imhO the start recording/take picture should lose that visible square
angle line looks like an odd part of 3x3 grid (maybe its supose to be like that? i dunno, i know zero of pro-photo taking)
as a side note, at least on my device, the zoom scale looks inverted (at 0x bar it's blue, at 4x it's invisible)
i must say i really really love the option to controle the exposure from the volume menu, great idea
great work!
mdwh said:
Oops yes, that's a bug in the new file chooser, I'll get a fix out for that.
I want to have more accessibility to other options, though need to think about how to do this (more icons means more clutter / running out of space) - possibly having a fully customised GUI, or a swipe down for more options, or other ideas are welcome.
Hardware HDR should be supported if it's offered as a scene mode by the device; doing it in software is something I may do in future.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, been using this for a few months, its one of the better camera apps, but could do with a few improvements (sorry to sound negative, I do like it!)
I d like:
An ISO shortcut, or option to add it, so you dont have to delve into the menus
Touch to focus and take a picture all in one, like Snap camera (already been suggested twice, so this seems the most popular request so far !)
Option to remove zoom slider - hardly any phone camera has optical zoom and digital zoom is 100% useless so I dont want it cluttering up the screen.
On my find 5 the camera button (the one you hit to take a shot) is surrounded by a square and it looks awful, so an option to change the style of this button would be nice (circle, square, pic of a camera, red, blue, white etc. I notice the screen shot in the first post there is no square though ?
How about a maximum no of icons you can have on the screen based on the size of the device, then user can choose what icons to have up to the maximum that can fit, so the amount of clutter is down to the user and the number of icons down to whats physically possible ?
I do like this app, but it is slow to take pictures, especially when stabilised, Snap camera isnt this slow whether youre using the stabilise feature or not, would be nice if it was quicker.
Was using the app with CM and did have some problems, using OmniROM now and dont seem to have them. Used to use Snap mostly, but that seems to have bugs on both CM and Omni, would like to remove it and 100% replace it with this.
A question about the "auto-stabilise."
Stabilization (as in Optical Image Stabilization, or OIS) generally refers to a camera shake reducing feature. Is that what this does? Your description sounds more like auto-leveling than the traditional meaning of stabilization.
I honestly have only one issue with this camera, it's damn ugly. Other than that it works beautifully on my S3 running CM11. You are using standard controls, so themes kinda mess with your work. I would suggest spending some time on a look and feel that would make your app look more modern.
What about porting it for gingerbread? (2.3+)
I really like this! I have an older armv6 version of focal but UI is very difficult to navigate. This one fills the bill.
UI suggestions:
*Universal choice of <-|+> or slider. Really do not need both visible. Do not take space for both or unselected alternative. It is those sliders that make the iPhone camera a joy to use.
*Place all those potentially per-picture options up front rather than in properties (or set their defaults in properties): ASA, white-balance, color-effect, et al. Done this way on focal and cm11s camera.
*Focus region is settable on cm11s camera (in properties but would rather see up front as well).
*Option for powerbutton capture (focus and shoot).
*Option for normal camera-icon capture (focus and shoot). Previously requested here. I am kind of confused as to what is going on right now and can be surprised to see "taking picture."
*Generally, unclutter everything which is going on the screen on top of the view. Do not need all those numbers and boxes except where directly functional such as focus region.
Might be interesting and make for quicker shoots: continuous auto focus--more likely picture is ready when I press the button. I do not think anybody is doing this at present (but nobody else is fudging angles and such either!).
Thanks for this great job, could you include the exposure time regulation? ideally to photograph lightnings.
Best regards
Enviado desde mi Nexus 4 mediante Tapatalk
Cool app from what I've seen in two minutes of tinkering or so.
I was wondering if it'd be possible to set 60 and 50 Hz anti-flickering from the app? I'm travelling in a 50Hz power region and some museum lighting gave me weird banding effects that I suspect was caused by this.

[GUIDE] Howto increase photo quality on Galaxy S7 & S8

Hey guys!
You may ask yourself at some point how the hell can it be that Galaxy S7/S7edge/S8 camera is so highly praised? If you are into photography and look closer at the taken pics you will most likely be disappointed.
Let's go through the critical reviews found by google:
Code:
[COLOR="Red"][B]#[/B] Oversharpened photos
[B]#[/B] Overexposed photos
[B]#[/B] Oversaturated photos
[B]#[/B] Too much noise reduction[/COLOR]
Well, you are right, at some point. Let's take a look at my sample pic:
100% crop, unedited, S7edge, stockROM, stock camera, stock settings=auto mode
Ah yes, yes, I see it: oversharpened check, too much noise reduction check, oversaturated che... wait! no. After trying to get the best out of my S7edge camera, I think the main problem is by default samsung adds too much contrast. Here is how to 'fix' the camera:
Important:
Code:
[COLOR="Red"][B]#[/B] These settings are made for S7 Flat and S7 Edge models but most likely will improve your S8/S8+ camera too. Exynos only!
[B]#[/B] Some settings require root access. Do it at your own Risk! Your warranty is void.
[B]#[/B] I'm not responsible for damage to your equipment.
[B]#[/B] Photo 'quality' is a very subjective, some people prefer keeping natural grain, some prefer cristal clear photos.
[B]#[/B] Sample photos are taken with two Galaxy S7 edge (one stock, one modified), both isocell sensor, at the same time to have the same lightning conditions.[/COLOR]
First, how it could be:
100% crop, unedited, S7edge, stockROM, Zero Camera Mod, Pro mode custom settings
Wait! 'Looks like ****, too' you think? Then this thread is not for you. Look closer and you will see this is a lot more 'natural'. The lower contrast will reveal more details, the lower sharpness won't look that 'plastic', the lower denoise will work well with it. Btw if you think the metal pipe looks now blueish... it has a blue tint in reality!
Second another example:
Before:
1/10s f/1.7 ISO320
After:
1/10s f/1.7 ISO640
Well, yeah there is a lot of noise now, but there is a lot of detail too, at this point you can reduce noise in photoshop if you like, but you cannot reveal lost details. Again, the lower contrast let's us recognize the shape of this subwoofer. You may ask, why higher ISO? I will explain later.
Third the settings:
First screenshot shows app by zeroprobe. Default settings are '5' for 'edge' and '5' for 'denoise'. If we lower each value, we lower sharpness(='edge') and lower denoising. You can try out other values (1-10) but the effect will be drastic and don't look good anymore. This app requires root and you can buy it here for S7/S7edge and here for S8.
Fourth the final touchup
... and the promised explanation for higher ISO and using auto flash: Use a polarization filter! No, not things like that:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
This will work but to be honest it adds bulk, looks ugly and you have to always carry with you. So instead use this:
Yeah, just look at ebay (or elsewhere) for some polarization filter film manufacturer. Important, don' buy anything thicker than 0,2 millimeter because this will let too little light in and buy a self-adhesive one. Normally there will be some offer kind of 100x100x0,2 millimeter film.
Yes, you cannot adjust the filter if it is 'glued' to camera lens (easily to peel off if your are not satisfied), but you don't have to! This is not our goal (we have adjusted saturation already):
Instead this is your gain:
before and after (less reflections=more details)
You can now use flash because it won't introduce ugly glare (like on someones forehead):
before and after using flash without other light source
Another notice: Every 90 degree you rotate the film before attachement, other light reflecions will be filtered (0° and 180° is the same of course). Find the one that bother you the most and apply that way (just use a tripod while testing). The polarization film has to be applied on the led flash too but 90° off the direction you chose for the camera. That way flash reflections will be filtered.
This film, even it's only 0,2 millimeter thick will reduce the light coming in and therefore the software raises ISO and will make use of flash earlier but that's good now
So , have fun!
Stock camera, stock rom
Looks really good. Please provide additional infos: Samsung or sony sensor? ISO? Shutterspeed? Edited in any way?
S7 edge exynos. Camera on auto mode and absolutely no edit. All my pics are great for me. Here's another one.
It is good that you are satisfied and not so demanding. To clarify things, your last pic for example is blurry and there are many S7 /S8 camera reviews that confirm my listing of flaws. No need to doubt my efforts by only posting pics in auto mode.
From were i can download this software
arshad.ma147 said:
From were i can download this software
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read the guide again and you will see that there are clickable texts like this which will open the link
An interesting idea with CPL filter. Won't such one go off after some time (or rotate)?
Are there more examples of CPL on\off at darker conditions, in-door, party ect?
koboltzz said:
It is good that you are satisfied and not so demanding. To clarify things, your last pic for example is blurry and there are many S7 /S8 camera reviews that confirm my listing of flaws. No need to doubt my efforts by only posting pics in auto mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tell me what you think about this one ?
I'm totally noob about photography in general that's why i always use auto mode
Burgscheinkerkdeiktraast said:
An interesting idea with CPL filter. Won't such one go off after some time (or rotate)?
Are there more examples of CPL on\off at darker conditions, in-door, party ect?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, since it's self-adhesive like every scotch tape. The mentioned second galaxy S7 (without any modification) in my guide belongs to my wife. After releasing this guide I apply the same filter on her S7. Therefore I am not able to produce before-after-shots. This 'idea' is maybe new to smartphones, but many professional photografers use flash light and lens with CPL filter, this is why wou will find example pics about filtering light reflections all over the web.
scribbclubber said:
Tell me what you think about this one ?
I'm totally noob about photography in general that's why i always use auto mode
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then just shot one photo in auto mode and the same scenery in 'pro' mode again with my settings to have a comparision. If you are a noob then leave the app by zeroprobe aside and just try 'pro' mode (follow the guide and click on the pictures). Your last pic looks good enough (since S7 camera hardware is superb) but at same time heavily postprocessed by samsung which leads to a overall artificially look (too much contrast, too sharp).
Okey. Is it known more - less how much ISO higher is with film on? Is it drastic change?
Burgscheinkerkdeiktraast said:
Okey. Is it known more - less how much ISO higher is with film on? Is it drastic change?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, in comparision one level higher (for example without polarization filter ISO 160, with polarization fiter ISO 200 =one step)
Come somebody please suggest me some polarization fiter and where to by in Germany?
Thank you!
DirkStorck said:
Come somebody please suggest me some polarization fiter and where to by in Germany?
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem, as I wrote, simply search in ebay. Result is here.
koboltzz said:
No problem, as I wrote, simply search in ebay. Result is here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you!
Hi koboltzz, thanks for your post!
I also experienced that, especially in darker conditions, the standard image processing of my S7 makes it look a bit blurry and poor in details. I will definitely check out the zero camera mod. About the polarization filter... Isn't it a bit of a problem when switching between portrait and landscape mode? Each angle the picture is recorded in will filter different light. So, I imagine I would be stuck in using e.g. landscape mode because I like the filter effect and when using portrait my pictures are darker (or noisier because higher ISO) without the desired effect?
Attaching the filter on the flash with 90 degree rotation basically adds up the filters in both directions, doesn't it? This sounds like a great strategy.
Your example pictures with the tiles clearly show how all these reflections are eliminated. But the picture gets pretty noise. I guess it is the combination of higher ISO, and less post processing? This starts looking a bit too noisy for my taste.
I know what you mean about switching between portrait and landscape mode but I can calm you down Since the filter effect on daylight applies only to light reflections in a specific angle to the lens, there exist no problems taking pictures from people or buildings in portrait or landscape. Anyway the best way is to leave the resolution at 12 MP 4:3 therefore you have always a almost quadratic picture which you can crop 16:9 afterwards. So you can decide which is the 'right' rotation before taking the picture and won't have any disadvantage.
Keep in mind, 'darker' is visually not what the filter is doing and the effect on iso is negliable since it's only one step higher (the camera app rounds, means if shimmering between ISO 613 and ISO 635 the user still sees "A 640"). Attaching the filter on the flash will turn the direction of emitted lightwave by 90° and that way the filter on the lens is able to filter the reflections (which are again turned by 90°).
SeltsamerHerr said:
But the picture gets pretty noise. I guess it is the combination of higher ISO, and less post processing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope...well.... yes, the tiles picture without reflections is noisier because the camera was already modified as described in first post therefore I've reduced noisereduction from 5 to 4
Brilliant app! (Use low Edge/DeNoise settings.)
Just rooted and installed zeroprobe's app. It's unbelievable—congratulations! The smeared noise-reduction was driving me crazy; I'd say that my S7 Edge can now hold its own with some of my reasonably expensive M43 and APS cameras. Advice: set the Edge and DeNoise at fairly low numbers: I use 3 and 2. Then, if needs be, sharpen and adjust noise in Lightroom or Photoshop. If you want to get quite nerdy about this: apply deconvolution sharpening in Lightroom (with sharpening detail set to 100, or close); then process the image in Silver Efex Pro: you'll get a stunning monochrome file.
Sharpening can go higher; I wouldn't set the DeNoise any higher than 2, or you start losing detail.
From what I can tell, the same sharpness and noise settings are applied in both Auto and Pro mode. I get great results with either. Thus far I haven't fooled around with any of the other parameters—I think it's probably unnecessary, as long as you're willing to do a bit of processing after the fact.

GCam Port for Essential PH-1 [Based on different devs]

Alright some of you have seen my contributions in the magisk thread by aer0zer0 but i seem to update it a lot and seem to spam the thread up, so i decided to make a seperate thread where i can post updates and edits.
//:
Q:Reason for using this over arnovas and cstarks gcams?
A:These settings are made especially for essentials IMX 258 and use more vibrant colors as seen in samples, plus the noise settings are manually tweaked by me and keep getting better as i tinker with them more, as well as the gcams provided by arnova and cstark use custom set blacklevel fix which is not an good idea, tolyan's uses dynamic black level which adjusts the tint values by ISO settings as said when checking the Fix Black level option.
://
Grab my compiled version with preset here- 5.3 https://mega.nz/#!qk4ggYqC!Pb3gY6DW0KNYd6huvbEvIARIGhdRrJckLZYBPnZ8q9I
6.1 Preset build based on MGC_6.1.021_V1d-Advances_test2.apkhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1QV88P65dzBAy7wJTlozei24owB8mzA5U/view?usp=sharing
Old method below
we are using tolyans builds
https://www.celsoazevedo.com/files/android/google-camera/dev-tolyan009/
1: Advanced Settings
//: Final JPG quality hdr+ = 100%
//: Resampling method = Raisr
//: Fix Black Level = on
//: Enable Motion = on
//: Max BlackLevel offset = 25 or 50
2: Noise Reduction -> tuning back cam
Rev 0.23 - October 9th
//: Tuning master switch = ON
• Apply custom sensor noise model = ON
• Custom sensor noise offset a = 3000
• Custom sensor noise offset b = 22500 (default)
• Custom sensor noise scale a = 2117875
• Custom sensor noise scale b = 113625
//: Apply custom denoise params = ON
• Custom luma denoise at high ISO values = 1.5
• Custom luma denoise at average ISO values = 2
• Custom luma denoise at low ISO values = 0.4
• Custom chroma denoise at high ISO values = 40
• Custom chroma denoise at average ISO values = 10
• Custom chroma denoise at low ISO values = 2.55
• Custom denoise revert factor at high ISO values = 0
• Custom denoise revert factor at average ISO values = 0.05
• Custom denoise revert factor at low ISO values = 0.05
3: Back to Advanced Settings -> Saturation
//: Highlight Saturation: 1.2
//: Shadow Saturation: 2.0
Samples: https://imgur.com/a/O9hYlBh
Noise settings differences: https://i.imgur.com/ICn5fmi.jpg
We need more people like you. Thanks!
I appreciate you, thanks .
praise be to the @TheIronLefty
aer0zer0 said:
praise be to the @TheIronLefty
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not til i make the apk recompiler work
Slow Motion does not appear to be working with this. Crashes app.
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Spey said:
Slow Motion does not appear to be working with this. Crashes app.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still need the magisk mod, but you can turn it off.
We should use HDR+ enhanced right?
aer0zer0 said:
Still need the magisk mod, but you can turn it off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thx 4 reply.
Will keep using SloMo on GoogleCamera-Pixel2Mod-Arnova8G2-V8.1.apk for time being. Was hoping to find 240fps (120fps only on this Arnova).
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
HaloTechnology said:
We should use HDR+ enhanced right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both work just fine.
Huh, this might make me finally install Magisk.
Just for your information, you might have missed that, another developer going by the name of ArtZ did something similar, just for a regular apk (https://www.celsoazevedo.com/files/android/google-camera/dev-artz/). He developed for the LG G6 which shares the IMX 258 with the PH-1 and very much focused on color reproduction. I've been using his latest apk since its release and always returned to it when testing other ones in between since the color reproduction is much better in HDR+ enhanced compared to other apks, his settings might be of interest to you as well in your development.
Edit: after testing tolyans build with your settings I'm definitely impressed by the speed and noise settings, but color reproduction is still significantly better with the black level settings introduced by ArtZ. The color shift can best be seen when taking a low light picture with HDR+ and HDR+ enhanced, the latter will often have a green tint. ArtZ talked a bit about his settings in this post: https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75432324&postcount=1568. Integrating a PH-1 specific color fix into a Gcam apk could very well be worth the work.
Skirr said:
Huh, this might make me finally install Magisk.
Just for your information, you might have missed that, another developer going by the name of ArtZ did something similar, just for a regular apk (https://www.celsoazevedo.com/files/android/google-camera/dev-artz/). He developed for the LG G6 which shares the IMX 258 with the PH-1 and very much focused on color reproduction. I've been using his latest apk since its release and always returned to it when testing other ones in between since the color reproduction is much better in HDR+ enhanced compared to other apks, his settings might be of interest to you as well in your development.
Edit: after testing tolyans build with your settings I'm definitely impressed by the speed and noise settings, but color reproduction is still significantly better with the black level settings introduced by ArtZ. The color shift can best be seen when taking a low light picture with HDR+ and HDR+ enhanced, the latter will often have a green tint. ArtZ talked a bit about his settings in this post: https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75432324&postcount=1568. Integrating a PH-1 specific color fix into a Gcam apk could very well be worth the work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My settings are based of Artz's, in my testing i never got green or magenta tint on my settings, however i did have those issues when u used to use ArtZ's last builds
Skirr said:
Huh, this might make me finally install Magisk.
Just for your information, you might have missed that, another developer going by the name of ArtZ did something similar, just for a regular apk (https://www.celsoazevedo.com/files/android/google-camera/dev-artz/). He developed for the LG G6 which shares the IMX 258 with the PH-1 and very much focused on color reproduction. I've been using his latest apk since its release and always returned to it when testing other ones in between since the color reproduction is much better in HDR+ enhanced compared to other apks, his settings might be of interest to you as well in your development.
Edit: after testing tolyans build with your settings I'm definitely impressed by the speed and noise settings, but color reproduction is still significantly better with the black level settings introduced by ArtZ. The color shift can best be seen when taking a low light picture with HDR+ and HDR+ enhanced, the latter will often have a green tint. ArtZ talked a bit about his settings in this post: https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75432324&postcount=1568. Integrating a PH-1 specific color fix into a Gcam apk could very well be worth the work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you don't care about slomo or hevc, you don't need magisk
TheIronLefty said:
My settings are based of Artz's, in my testing i never got green or magenta tint on my settings, however i did have those issues when u used to use ArtZ's last builds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The settings you describe though do only cover chroma and luminance noise handling, right? There are no IMX 258 specific black level offsett settings (aside from activating "Fix Black Level") applied like the ones ArtZ describes:
Release (default is 64.0 for all)
0x427F70A4 # 63.86f
0x427FB852 # 63.93f
0x427FB852 # 63.93f
0x428047AE # 64.14f
(Decimals are very important. There's visible differences using for instance 63.85 instead of 63.86!!!)
I haven't found that option in tolyans build, but I remember some apks would let you change these 4 values in 0.1 intervals. I tried the upper values in a few of those builds a while ago but they never gave the same result compared to the ArtZ apk, probably because ArtZ directly integrated them in the build including the second digit.
I'll try to whip up a quick comparison album this evening between the Essential cam, ArtZ v3.0 Taimen and the tolyan build with your settings to illustrate what I mean with respect to the green tint.
In the meantime, here is an older album I created this February with a few different ports, including the ArtZ v3.1 (which, oddly enough, is older than the v3.0). You can cleary see how most ports handle HDR+ (which i dubbed ZSL in the image descriptions back then) similarily but differentiate heavily when using HDR+ enhanced (HDR+ in the image description): https://photos.app.goo.gl/iGKAjwAD6PbUrgia2
aer0zer0 said:
If you don't care about slomo or hevc, you don't need magisk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're right of course, I initially misread and thought the settings described by TheIronLefty were part of a specific magisk gcam module, not "just" settings for tolyans build.
Skirr said:
The settings you describe though do only cover chroma and luminance noise handling, right? There are no IMX 258 specific black level offsett settings (aside from activating "Fix Black Level") applied like the ones ArtZ describes:
Release (default is 64.0 for all)
0x427F70A4 # 63.86f
0x427FB852 # 63.93f
0x427FB852 # 63.93f
0x428047AE # 64.14f
(Decimals are very important. There's visible differences using for instance 63.85 instead of 63.86!!!)
I haven't found that option in tolyans build, but I remember some apks would let you change these 4 values in 0.1 intervals. I tried the upper values in a few of those builds a while ago but they never gave the same result compared to the ArtZ apk, probably because ArtZ directly integrated them in the build including the second digit.
I'll try to whip up a quick comparison album this evening between the Essential cam, ArtZ v3.0 Taimen and the tolyan build with your settings to illustrate what I mean with respect to the green tint.
In the meantime, here is an older album I created this February with a few different ports, including the ArtZ v3.1 (which, oddly enough, is older than the v3.0). You can cleary see how most ports handle HDR+ (which i dubbed ZSL in the image descriptions back then) similarily but differentiate heavily when using HDR+ enhanced (HDR+ in the image description).
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I tried using those settings on arthurs build, i even discussed about it in magisk thread, but i never got the same results too. Besides i cant really do anything about integrating it, since i dont know how to work with java.
@TheIronLefty, looks like colour noise reduction is a bit overdone in your sample. Very apparent on the depth of field scale on the old lens.
When I try to install tolyans build, it says "update existing application" and I am unable to install it... Any fixes?
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NummerEinsNerd said:
When I try to install tolyans build, it says "update existing application" and I am unable to install it... Any fixes?
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Uninstall any other custom GCAM application and try again.
Genghis1227 said:
Uninstall any other custom GCAM application and try again.
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I have already done that, still won't work :/
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aer0zer0 said:
Still need the magisk mod, but you can turn it off.
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which magisk mod do I need to activate slow mo on pie?

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