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I've got Google Wallet installed, and cards activated, but I can't seem to make it actually pay...
A couple of trips to the local McDonalds - waking up my phone and waving it over the red sensor part of their card reader does nothing... unlocking or having wallet open at the time doesn't help either.
What am I doing wrong?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
Does your phone beep to let you know the nfc receiver has picked up an rfid signal?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
Did you have the NFC box check under settings more settings. It allows information to be sent between NFC device which is necessary.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
No response at all from my phone or the terminal. Might as well have been waving my hand over it.
Does the phone need a physical "bump" instead of a wave to do its thing? I would expect this to work much the same as my proximity company ID badge.
NFC is turned on. SBeam is off (does that matter?)
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
I always touch my phone back to the spot on the card reader. Do you have a case on your phone? There is only like a half inch of play before the phone is too far away. Try it again by tapping the phone.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
yeah. i get embarrass too if wallet doesnt work. how embarrassing!
but they have nfc soda vending machines in Atlantis hotel casino in reno! i tried it there with wallet on my nexus without the embarrassment and it works!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEwHMk4qFTs
"waving it over the red sensor part"
You dont know what your doing if you "waved" it. You must hold it up to the scanner for it to recognize. Also, if you have a case, it takes longer to pick up because the case adds thickness which reduces the bandwidth NFC can utilize due to a weaker signal.
Experiences: 8 successful payments. 1 failed (Walgreens isnt there yet)
There is no red sensor where I used it. 7-11 and cumbys. It's the grey part above the debit/credit card scanner that has the nfc symbol....Walgreen's failed for me also the manager said they just recently installed.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
I've had the same exact problem as the OP. I tried mine at a local gas station where a friend works so I didn't look like a complete dunderhead and I tried it on 6 separate occasions and tried installing it several different times/ways and could never get it to work. They have the EZ Pay NFC reader above the credit card machine and every time I tried it it would not work no matter if I tapped it, took it out of the TPU case, got the cashier to hit credit, opened and unlocked the app. Nothing. It just simply refused to work. Maybe I'm just an idiot though, I just assume the EZ Pay NFC card reader would read my NFC chip in my phone. Maybe it won't. I am just at a loss. I just reset the app and went to my backup nandroid and left it along after all the attempts because I was so embarrassed.
i've only used it once thus far, i was worried it wouldn't work right since i never used NFC payments before so i had no idea how to do it......it took about 15 secs for GW to open up from a locked status on my phone then about another 20 secs for it to recognize the nfc scanner and to process a payment to mcdonalds, not bad, i had my card out in preparation though lol
Try without a case.I had no comm using NFC due to my case blocking the signal somehow. took it off and now it works every time.
Sent from my galaxy nexus using xda app-developers app
digitalsynner85 said:
i've only used it once thus far, i was worried it wouldn't work right since i never used NFC payments before so i had no idea how to do it......it took about 15 secs for GW to open up from a locked status on my phone then about another 20 secs for it to recognize the nfc scanner and to process a payment to mcdonalds, not bad, i had my card out in preparation though lol
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Click to collapse
I had thought that maybe it would take a bit for GW to notice the NFC reader but i left it there for a full 5 minutes at one point, I was running my mouth, and it never pulled up GW nor recognized the NFC reader. Also this was with the phone off. Another thing I found funny about it was that it the app would not pull up as Ready to Use until I had let it set up my Play Store credit card they have on file. I dont know if the OP is having the same exact problem as I am but it sounds exactly the same. I have also tested my NFC with my girlfriends GS3 to see if maybe I recieved a bad battery or maybe my phone was somehow faulty but it pulled the fileshare using S-Beam off without a hitch so.....
shangrila500 said:
I had thought that maybe it would take a bit for GW to notice the NFC reader but i left it there for a full 5 minutes at one point, I was running my mouth, and it never pulled up GW nor recognized the NFC reader. Also this was with the phone off. Another thing I found funny about it was that it the app would not pull up as Ready to Use until I had let it set up my Play Store credit card they have on file. I dont know if the OP is having the same exact problem as I am but it sounds exactly the same. I have also tested my NFC with my girlfriends GS3 to see if maybe I recieved a bad battery or maybe my phone was somehow faulty but it pulled the fileshare using S-Beam off without a hitch so.....
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My phone wasn't off, just locked. If the phone's off then the nfc reader is supposed to be off too. I found that just quickly opening GW right before touching it to the reader makes it happen almost instantly. At least for me already.
Beamed via NFC through the local store to the internet from my SGS3.
digitalsynner85 said:
My phone wasn't off, just locked. If the phone's off then the nfc reader is supposed to be off too. I found that just quickly opening GW right before touching it to the reader makes it happen almost instantly. At least for me already.
Beamed via NFC through the local store to the internet from my SGS3.
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Click to collapse
Sorry about the misunderstanding. When I said off o meant my screen was locked. My phone just edited that part out. I have tried it like you did also, by opening the app right before touching it to the reader. Still doesn't work. It may just be an issue with my phone. No matter how I try to use it to pay it won't work...
i've had no issues having my nfc chip being scanned but i have yet to complete a purchase successfully. i'm going to chalk it up to the terminals not being configured correctly... my other nfc functions work fine.
Some dont work for some odd reasons because the storemanager/higher ups dont know what it is so they might have disabled it for what ever reason.
I know Walgreens has scanners but does not work JUST yet, they are partners of the whole NFC movement thing.
Stores that have worked for me are.
Chevron, 7-11 ( had to tilt there scanner up), McDonalds, BJ's (like walmart), Vending Machines.
Doesnt work: Walgreens, Some Random gas station out of town
I find that if you see a LED blinking or on thats connected to the scanner, the scanner works, but if it doesnt scan right away its the case's fault or not placing it.
Source: I like to consider myself a Wallet expert haha, my thread is over in Developer Section to get wallet as well. Also all my purchases have been used using a Otterbox Defender, and take about 3-5 seconds to complete the transaction.
mine failed as well at a jack in the box drive thru. looked like a fool. haha
i took my case off, opened the app, clicked the lock in the corner, entered my pin, and held it up against the reader for a good few seconds but nothing happened. nfc was on. their reader had like 4 spots for lights and the first one was on with a solid green light so not sure, hopefully it was their reader. will try again at a 7-11 if I can get over the embarassment
LOL at you guys thinking your case is giving you a problem, most likely you are not putting the battery (where the NFC is) up to the correct part of the terminal (your phone should chime or make a noise when its recognized, just like when Android Beam comes up),
or just plain out the terminal doesn't work (not your phone), a mcdonalds and wendys in my area they have them but nothing happens and one mcd across town works perfectly fine. Just depends on the vendor.
I have the Otterbox Defender on both my S3 and Galaxy Nexus, and haven't had a problem or delay yet as long as their terminal is working correctly, and they are pretty thick cases. As long as you line it up right and they work shouldn't be a problem
NeoMagus said:
LOL at you guys thinking your case is giving you a problem, most likely you are not putting the battery (where the NFC is) up to the correct part of the terminal (your phone should chime or make a noise when its recognized, just like when Android Beam comes up),
or just plain out the terminal doesn't work (not your phone), a mcdonalds and wendys in my area they have them but nothing happens and one mcd across town works perfectly fine. Just depends on the vendor.
I have the Otterbox Defender on both my S3 and Galaxy Nexus, and haven't had a problem or delay yet as long as their terminal is working correctly, and they are pretty thick cases. As long as you line it up right and they work shouldn't be a problem
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Well said and 100% accurate. I bet the problems people are facing are user error or the terminal just doesnt work.
I've used mine on about three different occasions and it worked perfectly. But what's funny, I was in a local vzw store buying something. They have what looks like the press pass set up, tried to use it and it wouldn't go through. The girl checking me out was surprised and had no idea that you could even do that. Anyway, my point is that even though the card reader looks like it will work, if they don't have it set up it won't. Vzw's looks just like the ones at McDonald's.
Hi, I just got this watch this weekend and haven't really got a chance to experiment with these apps yet. During the little bit of time I did, I experienced the Nike+ app would lag/skip while music was playing every time I would try to look at the screen. On the other side, the S Health caused my watch to reboot twice for whatever reason.
I was wondering, what are the differences between these apps? If you use one versus the other does the information still get transferred/communicated to the S Health information or the Nike+ results such as the distance and average pace? One other question, is there a way to make the display last longer? It seems as soon as I would try to see my current run's information, the movement of my arm would cause the display to shut off before I could switch between screens, which is pretty frustrating.
Anyone else have any experience with this? Thanks.
yackeysp said:
Hi, I just got this phone this weekend and haven't really got a chance to experiment with these apps yet. During the little bit of time I did, I experienced the Nike+ app would lag/skip while music was playing every time I would try to look at the screen. On the other side, the S Health caused my watch to reboot twice for whatever reason.
I was wondering, what are the differences between these apps? If you use one versus the other does the information still get transferred/communicated to the S Health information or the Nike+ results such as the distance and average pace? One other question, is there a way to make the display last longer? It seems as soon as I would try to see my current run's information, the movement of my arm would cause the display to shut off before I could switch between screens, which is pretty frustrating.
Anyone else have any experience with this? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't experience the issues you mentioned on the apps - maybe a reboot would help?
I did suffer from poor GPS reception on both apps, though S health seemed a little better on that front (just from a couple of runs). I'm on the TMobile 3g model.
You can connect the Nike and S health apps. When you do so, S health gets a new tile reporting some stats from the Nike app. Clicking on that tile will simply open the Nike app for the full details.
I'm not aware of a way to set a longer time out for the screen. I beleive this was added to a firmware update that so far is only available in Korea, hopefully we'll also get it at some point here in the US. Not sure if changing the screen to always-on might help with the hand movement issue - I'm using the wake up gesture too, so have no experience with that, unfortunately.
Thanks for the information. I did do a reboot last night, hoping that helps.
So between the two apps, they're basically the same and it just comes down to user preference? Glad to hear they share the data. That's a good idea to always leave the watch face on, at least only while running, I just don't want to kill the battery in the first few hours. Hopefully, the firmware gets pushed to us soon, it would make that a lot easier.
Other think that really bothered me yesterday on my first run with the watch (3g, Tmo), was that I was listening music from the watch through some BT headphones, and when I pressed the home button to go to the music app to skip tracks, when I went back to the Nike+, it started again. Did not kept in the background!!!
yackeysp said:
Thanks for the information. I did do a reboot last night, hoping that helps.
So between the two apps, they're basically the same and it just comes down to user preference? Glad to hear they share the data. That's a good idea to always leave the watch face on, at least only while running, I just don't want to kill the battery in the first few hours. Hopefully, the firmware gets pushed to us soon, it would make that a lot easier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just to clarify, the data sharing is one way - you can see some data from Nike on S-health, but I don't think it works the other way round
Also, how can the data on my watch sync with my Shealth on the phone, is it possible?
bebeloneovvl said:
Also, how can the data on my watch sync with my Shealth on the phone, is it possible?
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Click to collapse
Yes, the phone app gets stats from the watch - for example step count or heart rate measures are shown on the phone app. Unfortunately I don't remember if I had to do something to make it work or if it syncs automatically, but it's definitely working
Good to know. Looks like I'll be using Nike+ to start out with. To answer bebeloneovvl, I didn't do anything in the settings and my phone synced with my watch to the step. It didn't at first but over night it did and ever since then, once it's in bt range it syncs.
I also noticed that if you're running on the treadmill, if the location/GPS is on it isn't accurate at all, but if that's turned off it's pretty close to what's on the treadmill. Seemed to for me anyways. I didn't even attempt to start either app, the S Health just automatically recognized I was running. I'll have to try the Nike+ app tomorrow.
Thanks for the answer. I did a restart and it seems to work well now. Today on my second day of running, using the watch alone, the distance was wayyyy off. My 4 mile route, that I've been running forever, on the watch measured 3.50 miles. Found that pretty odd, maybe GPS signal drops along the route?
bebeloneovvl said:
Thanks for the answer. I did a restart and it seems to work well now. Today on my second day of running, using the watch alone, the distance was wayyyy off. My 4 mile route, that I've been running forever, on the watch measured 3.50 miles. Found that pretty odd, maybe GPS signal drops along the route?
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Click to collapse
I haven't had the chance to run outside yet with mine, so I can't give you any advice on that, that does suck though... Which app did you use?
I found this thread while Googling inaccurate readings with the Nike app on Samsung Gear S2.
I've run outdoors with it 3 times so far and each time has been way off. Not only is the mileage off, but I noticed while looking at my mapped out run online afterwards that my path jumps all over the place. I ran on a track and it showed me running through the infield many times. Also, I was jogging on a 9 minute/mile pace, but the mileage breakdown showed I was running 4 to 5 minute miles then a huge lump sum of the leftover minutes went to the end of the run.
I've rebooted the watch before runs 2 and 3. I also switched GPS mode to GPS only and not 'GPS and Network'. On the 3rd run, I removed the link between Nike and S Health then ran without heartrate, music, or cheers. Still had inaccuracies.
I was in the market for a Nike watch, but when I saw the Gear S2's with built in Nike App I couldn't pass it up. I love everything else about the watch. I hope they can get these issues resolved. Mine is on the T-Mobile network.
colinzeal109 said:
I found this thread while Googling inaccurate readings with the Nike app on Samsung Gear S2.
I've run outdoors with it 3 times so far and each time has been way off. Not only is the mileage off, but I noticed while looking at my mapped out run online afterwards that my path jumps all over the place. I ran on a track and it showed me running through the infield many times. Also, I was jogging on a 9 minute/mile pace, but the mileage breakdown showed I was running 4 to 5 minute miles then a huge lump sum of the leftover minutes went to the end of the run.
I've rebooted the watch before runs 2 and 3. I also switched GPS mode to GPS only and not 'GPS and Network'. On the 3rd run, I removed the link between Nike and S Health then ran without heartrate, music, or cheers. Still had inaccuracies.
I was in the market for a Nike watch, but when I saw the Gear S2's with built in Nike App I couldn't pass it up. I love everything else about the watch. I hope they can get these issues resolved. Mine is on the T-Mobile network.
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Click to collapse
I was really hoping for better results than that... I agree, I love the watch and all the capabilities it has but that's a pretty big factor for me. I really want to keep this, but if this is consistent then it may just be going back to AT&T. We'll see how accurate mine is this weekend. I'm sorry to hear that though.
yackeysp said:
I was really hoping for better results than that... I agree, I love the watch and all the capabilities it has but that's a pretty big factor for me. I really want to keep this, but if this is consistent then it may just be going back to AT&T. We'll see how accurate mine is this weekend. I'm sorry to hear that though.
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Click to collapse
With the watch being new, I'll give them a chance to fix it. Perhaps a Nike competitor will swoop in and create a better app. In general, there's not many apps available for the watch. I'm looking forward to what the developers can come up with.
running with g2 is inacurrate
I get some issues also. my 6 km run is only 5,5 km with the g2, because at some point, i was looking at the watch and it doens not counted that half km. I will try next time to run with the watch disconected for the phone, because I suspect that it takes the possition from the phone gps, and at some point, the watch disconects from the phone, and maybe that's why it drops the signal
Please try your and give us your review.
I did some more experimenting today. I ran at a local high school 400m track (4 laps = mile).
Here's what I tried this time:
- Turned Bluetooth, WIFI, and NFC off
- Switched Location to GPS only
- I was using T-Mobile 4G network, clear blue Texas skies
- I unlinked the S Health and Nike App to try to prevent any clashing
- Closed all apps that were running
I launched the Nike app, didn't use music, heartrate, or cheers.
I jogged 8 full laps in lane 6 which should of been just over 2.1 miles but it logged me for 1.92.
My map was all over the place. I wanted to post screenshots but I'm a newb and can't until I have 10 posts here.
I don't expect it to be a perfect oval, but my cheap ZTE phone that I usually run with maps it much cleaner and a lot more accurate.
I ended that run, saved it, then ran another 8 laps in lane 2 with heartrate on this time. It says I jogged 1.8 miles instead of just over 2.
I noticed that there is no way to check the GPS signal before running. On both runs, it didn't show the map until halfway through the first lap. I wonder if that's when it started tracking my run
The phone app and Nike watches sync up and make sure you have a good GPS signal before you can run.
Another issue, although minor, I didn't see where to enter the track/road/trail or the shoes option.
I uploaded my path from Nike on imgur, but I can't post it as a link yet.
Decode this and take a look-> imgur dot com/609x3Ws
I swear I wasn't drunk during the 2 runs. I ran in the same lane on an oval track and the GPS was all over the place.
Also, I started and ended in the same spot but it's not reflected on the map. It shows I stop early.
I bought the AT&T version yesterday, mainly as a running device, but also for the smart watch perks. I ran three miles this morning and my experience was terrible.
I left my phone at home, turned off all connections on the watch except for GPS. I brought along my Garmin Forerunner that I've had for almost six years that has been reliably accurate.
It took a good 3-5 minutes for the GPS to initially lock on (I assume the location icon turning solid means it's locked on). I started down my street, which is residential houses with little tree coverage. By the time my Garmin said .40 miles, my S2 said .20 miles. So I decided to try in cycling mode, which I've seen recommended somewhere (running supposedly uses the pedometer instead of GPS for distance).
After switching to the cycling mode, distance seemed to be much more accurate but pace was being difficult. When I swiped to go to the pace screen, the GPS symbol was usually blinking and pace was blank. After a couple seconds, pace would kick in and start trying to match my current pace. Again, the Garmin does this much quicker with varying speeds.
I switched to the Nike Run app and that's just a terrible interface, even worse than the Shealth.
Not only is the GPS tracking pretty bad, but my general experience with the interface was terrible. I have the always on screen mode set to on. The screen of course goes back to ambient mode when the watch is in a certain position. Most of the time when trying to read my stats, the screen wouldn't go to the on the mode, so I would have to touch the screen or spin the dial to get it to turn on (I was also pushing my son in a stroller today, which made it more difficult). On top of that, I have to then scroll to whatever data screen I want to look at. All that screen space and they can only put one stat on each screen.
The Nike app was even worse because I can't even manually change what data I'm looking at. I have to wait for it to scroll through, which IMO, is pretty dangerous is you're running by traffic.
Overall, the experience was just terrible. It's going back to AT&T. I really wanted to like this device, but can't. It was actually great as a smart watch and I really like the look. Unfortunately, the running experience is a complete deal breaker.
Welp, I contacted Nike support Friday and thought I was on the right track, told them everything that was going on and they said their engineer was going to look into it. Yesterday they wrote me and said it's a Samsung problem. I contacted Samsungs support and they are telling me that it's Nike's problem. Samsung also said it's a 3rd party app, which it is, but there is not a way to uninstall it. It came loaded with the watch. I've tried to reinstall the Nike app before to try to fix the problem but it doesn't show up on the uninstall list.
I just love it when they pass the blame back to each other while I'm sitting here with my $350 GPS watch that doesn't work correctly.
I used the built-in S Health app and the map of my run was messed up too, so that rules out Nike's app as being the culprit.
I am sending the watch back to Samsung so they can run diagnostics on it. I'll have it back in a couple of weeks then I'll give it another shot.
GPS inaccuracy?
I just got my new Gear S2 from T-Mobile (3G version) today and did a 5KM running and some walking. I also carried my Galaxy S4 with runkeeper on it. Nike+ app on Gear S2 showed me at 4.9KM. Also as I was running I looked at the watch to see my current distance, but it wasn't updating the current distance instantly. I am very upset for this. Basically I needed a solid GPS watch with phone capability. Do you know if the GPS chip is not good enough or is it a software issue?
Ultimate Question:
Can anyone here say they've used two Samsung Gear S2/3 watches with the same phone, and been able to register both of them with the same Samsung Pay account and same bank credit-card account?
Background:
I've had Samsung Pay on my Gear S2 watch since it has been available, and it works better than I expected it to. It is obviously limited to NFC payment terminals, as the S2 has no Magnetic Secure Transmission device.
Enter the Gear S3, now with MST payment technology.
Linked it to my phone with zero issues entered my credit-card information, and was validated on Samsung Pay in less than ten minutes on the Gear S3.
At this point, my Gear S2 and the new Gear S3 are both enabled as payment devices using the same credit-card.
Take off the S3, put on the S2. Allow a few seconds for the Gear Manager to switch to the new watch. Press and hold the Samsung Pay button on the S2 and note that it is telling me that the card has been removed from my device and asks me if I'd like to add one at this time.
WTF? I go ahead and re-add the S2, call the bank, yadda yadda, and the S2 is back with my Visa enabled on it.
Yep. Now pick up the S3, and put down the S2. Allow a few seconds for the Gear Manager to switch to the new watch. Press and hold the Samsung Pay button on the S3 and note that it is telling me that the card has been removed from my device and asks me if I'd like to add one at this time.
100% reproducible.
I did this back-and-forth with the bank about 10 times last night, before someone there transferred me to the manager who asked if I could maybe spread out my token-requests over a few days.
Meanwhile my wife's S2 with Samsung Pay and the same card account is not affected by this at all - it seems that you're only allowed one Gear S watch at a time in which to have your Samsung Pay information stored, if they share a common phone. Authorize one, and as soon as you switch to the other it will de-authorize the card on that device. The bank assures me they are not doing this on their end.
My ultimate solution at this time is to have done a light-reset on my S2, powered it down, and put it on the charger until this can get straightened out. After doing that, I could get my card re-authorized on the S3 and it has been showing active for several hours now
Can anyone here say they've used two Samsung Gear S2/3 watches with the same phone, and been able to register both of them with the same Samsung Pay account and same bank credit-card account?
I have a similar experience. Switch watch on the Gear manager app and all the Samsung Pay credit cards are deleted.
It appears that credit cards can be authorised on both phone and watch but not on two watches at the same time.
Thanks for confirming. I'd hoped this was just a configuration issue on my end.
Considering one of the stand-out features of the watch(es) is the Samsung Pay functionality, I'd say this sort of renders useless that cool auto-switch capability in the Gear Manager.
I had spent over an hour on the phone with Samsung Pay support, describing the problem, and was told I'd be getting a confirmation email with a case-number for the support issue. Several days later - with the email noticibly absent from my inbox - I called again to inquire.
No solution, no case-number, no notes on my account. No record I'd ever even called.
Nice.
Samsung Pay for Gear only supports 1 watch at a time
I had a similar issue, but I am using both S3 models. I was finally able to get someone at Samsung Pay support that new about the issue. He explained that the Samsung Pay Gear app registers as it's in device for mobile payments. That device can only have one watch associated with it. So as you register and use your second watch, the first watch is deregistered.
There was a workaround available in my case. Since I have a second Galaxy phone and my S3 Frontier is the at&t model with it's own connectivity. I was able to register my classic with my normal phone and my Frontier with my other phone. The frontier doesn't need the phone to be connected when I use it for transactions, since it has it's own connectivity. It's a bad workaround, but it has worked for the last month.
With MST transactions being a big selling point of the Gear S3, I count this as a complete fail on Samsung's part. I wanted both S3 for their different styles, but I am now looking at offloading one because the user experience is not seamless between the two.
I think Samsung never considered someone would have more than one watch each with Samsung Pay on it.
Sent from my SM-N930T using Tapatalk
beauzeaux said:
There was a workaround available in my case. Since I have a second Galaxy phone and my S3 Frontier is the at&t model with it's own connectivity. I was able to register my classic with my normal phone and my Frontier with my other phone. The frontier doesn't need the phone to be connected when I use it for transactions, since it has it's own connectivity. It's a bad workaround, but it has worked for the last month.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doing a Samsung Pay transaction doesn't require connectivity. MST and NFC are hardware technologies. So both versions of the Frontier and the Classic models are S Pay capable.
Being able to pair a watch with 2 different phones is problematic. That would be the case with any Tizen or AW watch because it is a slave and master relationship. Which phones' contacts to use, which Facebook/Twitter account, which email, which messaging, etc. The solution is for watches to become independent- with standalone apps that pull directly from the servers​ (rather than going thru a phone). That is, essentially become a 1" smartphone.
Silly me, thinking that the new Gear manager's auto-switch capability would include preserving the Samsung Pay card registration on both watches.
It does not.
As a matter of fact, it disables the cards on both watches and will require you to re-authorize the cards on which ever watch you decide to use.
Yes, you're right. You can only activate credit card with one watch, not both. I've tested this very thoroughly and there's no way around this lim fact. What I've done is disable all connectivity on one watch and loaded the other one. I wear this one during the day and the other one at night. Best workaround I've found. Or you can add a second card on your second watch.
Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk
Samsung Pay doesn't work with two gear watches
I have two gear S3 watches, I can pair both to my S8 plus. The problem is setting up Samsung pay to use and work with two different Gear watches on the same phone, and use the same debit card. 1) both watches are to use the same debit cards. 2) One watch ("A") is active and linked to the phone. 3) setup the debit card on the phone for watch "A" using Samsung pay--all is fine to this point. On the watch SP works fine.
Now the problem: Turn off watch "A" and turn on watch "B", link "B" to the phone, proceed to setup SP. The first thing that happens is the previous working debit card is deleted and I,m prompted to re-setup the same debit card that was deleted. Now it's working for phone"B" just fine. Samsung Pay (SP) no longer works on phone "A" and will need to be setup again. Samsung Pay can't work with two gear S3 watches on the same phone. SP can only have one setup per phone, and each time you turn on a 2nd gear S3 watch, the exsisting SP setup is deleted. Why would anyone have a 2nd Gear S3 watch which will not be able to function correctly.
How does one setup two Gear S3 watches to work with Samsung Pay on the same phone? This is a MAJOR PROBLEM and needs to be addressed.
---------- Post added at 01:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:07 AM ----------
The only way I could get Samsung pay to work on two watches was to first link watch "A" to the phone. Setup Samsung Pay (SP) on watch "A", adding two debit cards. Then turn off "Bluetooth" on the watch, so the watch does not link with the phone anymore. You might ask why have the 2nd watch at all if it's not linked to the phone, and that is the 64 dollar question I keep asking myself.
Turn off watch "A". Turn on watch "B",proceed to setup SP in the normal way (at this point all the debit cards used for watch "A" will have be deleted). Re-install the debit cards again (this madness---nuts). Now Samsung pay will work on both watches, but one watch no longer links to the phone--no incoming calls, no text messages, no email, but you have SP working.
Samsung are you listening...... This needs to get corrected....
jag5001 said:
Yes, you're right. You can only activate credit card with one watch, not both. I've tested this very thoroughly and there's no way around this lim fact. What I've done is disable all connectivity on one watch and loaded the other one. I wear this one during the day and the other one at night. Best workaround I've found. Or you can add a second card on your second watch.
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Click to collapse
If the problem is the same card can't be used on two different watches, the simplest solution is to have your bank issue a second card linked to the same account (ie. upload your spouse's card)
Hopeful that Samsung sends an update to allow this.
afblangley said:
If the problem is the same card can't be used on two different watches, the simplest solution is to have your bank issue a second card linked to the same account (ie. upload your spouse's card)
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Click to collapse
I've tried using my wife's card. It does not work, the same results only one Samsung account, per watch at the same time.
Same issue with me, S8 with both S3 Classic and Frontier. Its not that you can't have the same card on both watches, you can't have any cards active on both watches. Whatever cards registered on one watch are immediately deleted as soon as the phone connects to the other watch.
I also tried contacting Samsung Pay support on twitter. After a long back-and-forth they simply tell me to contact samsung support instead. Seems they are not aware of this issue. They told me they do not have two S3's on hand to try and replicate this problem.
I end up not using samsung pay at all as the hassle of adding even a single card every time I switch watches is too much hassle. This is a major bummer...
Just purchased my second S3 so I can have a nice watch for off duty and a beat up one for on duty use. I'm having the same problem. Researched and found this thread for info. At least now I can stop trying to get sp to work on both watches. Thanks for the info here. Major bummer for sp..
afh3 said:
Ultimate Question:
Can anyone here say they've used two Samsung Gear S2/3 watches with the same phone, and been able to register both of them with the same Samsung Pay account and same bank credit-card account?
Background:
I've had Samsung Pay on my Gear S2 watch since it has been available, and it works better than I expected it to. It is obviously limited to NFC payment terminals, as the S2 has no Magnetic Secure Transmission device.
Enter the Gear S3, now with MST payment technology.
Linked it to my phone with zero issues entered my credit-card information, and was validated on Samsung Pay in less than ten minutes on the Gear S3.
At this point, my Gear S2 and the new Gear S3 are both enabled as payment devices using the same credit-card.
Take off the S3, put on the S2. Allow a few seconds for the Gear Manager to switch to the new watch. Press and hold the Samsung Pay button on the S2 and note that it is telling me that the card has been removed from my device and asks me if I'd like to add one at this time.
WTF? I go ahead and re-add the S2, call the bank, yadda yadda, and the S2 is back with my Visa enabled on it.
Yep. Now pick up the S3, and put down the S2. Allow a few seconds for the Gear Manager to switch to the new watch. Press and hold the Samsung Pay button on the S3 and note that it is telling me that the card has been removed from my device and asks me if I'd like to add one at this time.
100% reproducible.
I did this back-and-forth with the bank about 10 times last night, before someone there transferred me to the manager who asked if I could maybe spread out my token-requests over a few days.
Meanwhile my wife's S2 with Samsung Pay and the same card account is not affected by this at all - it seems that you're only allowed one Gear S watch at a time in which to have your Samsung Pay information stored, if they share a common phone. Authorize one, and as soon as you switch to the other it will de-authorize the card on that device. The bank assures me they are not doing this on their end.
My ultimate solution at this time is to have done a light-reset on my S2, powered it down, and put it on the charger until this can get straightened out. After doing that, I could get my card re-authorized on the S3 and it has been showing active for several hours now
Can anyone here say they've used two Samsung Gear S2/3 watches with the same phone, and been able to register both of them with the same Samsung Pay account and same bank credit-card account?
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Click to collapse
I have the S3 Classic and want to purchase the S3 Frontier, so I was wondering the same and this is the response I received from Samsung support...
"Thank you for contacting us. We appreciate the opportunity to assist you.
I understand from your inquiry you want to use Samsung Pay on both your watches.
Kindly know that Samsung Pay can work on multiple devices independently, it does not deactivate or impact in other way the other Gear, as long as your bank allows you to have multiple cards issued for the same account.
Whenever you register a card in Samsung Pay, the bank issues a virtual card tied to your account. And it does that for each registration of Samsung Pay, even if it is the same account.
This is perfectly fine, that is how the application works, as long as the bank allows multiple registrations for the same bank account."
Please post if you were able to get both working, because I would love to purchase the S3 Frontier also.
Good luck.
I suppose as long as the card numbers are different on each device, then it could work as they state.
I can tell you what does not work - registering the same card (number) on more than one watch, and having those watches paired to the same phone.
I have a classic and a frontier and they both used to work with Samsung pay registered to the same phone, however since the latest gear updates they no longer work, can only have one tied to the account... I have a new issue as well, the Classic will no longer backup to the cloud... I've been in touch with support and they're basically useless to this point... Samsung has their head in their asses...
Just got the Galaxy Sport and already have the Galaxy Watch, now I use the GW mostly, but wanted to use the sport for when out and about training/riding/with kids, so want the Samsun Pay working on that too, but nope, doesn't matter if you use different cards (from different banks no less), as soon as Pay is setup on one watch it wipes the Pay setup from the other. No matter what.
Right pain in the bum!
the_ape said:
Just got the Galaxy Sport and already have the Galaxy Watch, now I use the GW mostly, but wanted to use the sport for when out and about training/riding/with kids, so want the Samsun Pay working on that too, but nope, doesn't matter if you use different cards (from different banks no less), as soon as Pay is setup on one watch it wipes the Pay setup from the other. No matter what.
Right pain in the bum!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any new updates on this issue?
SiNJiN76 said:
Hopeful that Samsung sends an update to allow this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good luck with that, I'm still dealing with my Classic stuck in a Terms & Conditions loop going on a year, watch will NOT backup or restore properly to my account. My Frontier works perfectly but my Classic is fubared. This seems to all be tied with 1 watch per account if you ask me... How do I suspect this? It all happened when they switched to 1 watch for Samsung Pay per account.
I'm sure I'll get some haters, who think I am simply nuts but this is a REAL problem that I've got to solve.
For the last 6 years I've had a mysterious stalker and hacker, who renders most of my and my family's devices nonfunctional and breaks into my accounts and generally makes my life much harder. It has recently come to light that it isn't a hacker SINGULAR but at least 3 guys, hellbent on destroying me: my daughter's father, her uncle, who is a military hacker and their friend, who managed to ingratiate himself with me, until my daughter's father confessed, when I confronted him with evidence against him and his brother, saying he didn't mean for it to get this out of hand. Well, thanks for the heads up but it's a little late, because it IS this out of hand and the wheels of justice grind slowly.
Meanwhile, I am still hacked, even worse now, because his brother got out of the military and moved back to town and has a lot more time and access now. Calls and texts are being intercepted so frequently, that I now use Google Voice/Hangouts to communicate, knowing that nothing I say is ever private but at least people get my messages and I get their calls that way.
I'm looking for a job and I need a device that he won't be able to spy on, so I went to Best Buy and purchased a phone card and moderately priced android phone and took it home to resume my job hunt. I planned never to call any of my usual contacts with the phone but just use it for work stuff. Within hours, it was acting buggy and when I restarted it, it did not go to the regular black screen that says "your device is encrypted for security" but showed my regular background and said "please enter your password when starting android". On my note 8 and 9, that would often happen and when I went to security options, secure startup would be disabled. I checked and secure startup was still supposedly enabled. In ADB "adb shell getprop ro.crypto.state" returned "unencrypted".
I returned the phone and purchased a Google Pixel, hoping their physical security device MIGHT be more effective than Knox at protecting me from this guy. I purchased a brand new sim card and spent another 50 bucks on a phone card, from a different company.
Since my daughter's father has moved within a half-mile of me (despite having no contact with her and very little with me) 4 times now, I speculated that he was, perhaps, using a directional yagi antenna to scan my area for new device beacons and then (skip forward a few steps) find out what apps are installed on those devices, to determine if they are mine. With that in mind, I never even turned the Pixel on at my house.
That night, I took the phone to a random emergency room with secure wifi, to which I know the password and proceeded to set it up. I made a new google account, as usual and installed a bunch of random apps, such as black dating apps (since I am white, I figured that, if my theory was right, it might throw them off my scent) and games I would never play and apps for banks of which I am not a member. By the first time I restarted the phone, still at the emergency room, it had the exact same problem. It purported to be encrypted but (adb later verified) it was not. Apparently, the cheap phone faired slightly better than the pixel, in this department, because the first one was reencrypted upon reset, while the Pixel was not. I never activated or inserted a sim card in the pixel and while I had my regular phone and tablet along with me, they were powered off, in the car.
I was pretty sure, after the first phone was compromised, that I was onto something with my beacon frame theory but it would not explain what happened at the emergency room, unless there is a tracking device in my car, which IS likely, because I continually find my car torn up in all sorts of ways. They even broke off the panel on the driver's door with lock and window switches and the lid of my center console and I continually find the carpet pulled away from the trim. Then again, they also put something caustic in the wiper fluid tank, which destroyed both tank and windshield, so it could also have all been done simply out of malice.
Having no better ideas, I ran a bug detector over my car and found that there IS a radio signal being emitted from somewhere around the gearshift or cd player. I took apart the area around the gearshift and found nothing. In that department, the only remaining possibility is that they've actually put something inside of the cd player itself, the screen of which quit working a while back. I have the ribbon cable to fix it, so maybe I'll get lucky when I crack it open in a bit. The signal DOES appear strongest at the CD player but it could be anything, even catalytic converters can emit radio signals.
Assuming my bug theory is wrong, does anyone have any other idea of how these guys could have discovered and hacked those phones? I've got to find a way to evade these people or I'll never have anything like a normal life, until they're finally in jail.
Wow!
I have not heard of such hacks, even when it comes to national security.
What is the motive of these three people ?
I have no clue but with there skill in not sure an iphone would fare much better
I got a new Watch 4 LTE from TMobile and I did get Google Pay set up on it, and it works, with limitations. It appears that when I tip my wrist back to place the watch near the reader, the screen shuts off and apparently, this may be preventing the NFC from working. If I contort myself the opposite direction so the screen doesn't shut off, Google pay works fine, but it's uncomfortable and just looks weird. As for Samsung Pay, I had it set up on my old watch and I told it I would be moving it to the new watch. This apparently requires an update of the watch app on the Watch 4, which consistently fails. I had a similar issue on my old watch and turning off WiFi on my phone seemed to fix it, but that's not the case here. Anyone have ideas? Can I sideload the Samsung Pay watch app through wireless ADB?
spyderveloce said:
I got a new Watch 4 LTE from TMobile and I did get Google Pay set up on it, and it works, with limitations. It appears that when I tip my wrist back to place the watch near the reader, the screen shuts off and apparently, this may be preventing the NFC from working. If I contort myself the opposite direction so the screen doesn't shut off, Google pay works fine, but it's uncomfortable and just looks weird. As for Samsung Pay, I had it set up on my old watch and I told it I would be moving it to the new watch. This apparently requires an update of the watch app on the Watch 4, which consistently fails. I had a similar issue on my old watch and turning off WiFi on my phone seemed to fix it, but that's not the case here. Anyone have ideas? Can I sideload the Samsung Pay watch app through wireless ADB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... I tried Google pay at another shop and it worked fine when the screen turned off... So I'm down to Samsung Pay. Honestly, I don't have to have it with GPay working right now, but it's gonna bug the heck outta me not being able to update it.
Are your phones rooted?
inningsdefeat500 said:
Are your phones rooted?
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Click to collapse
No. I used to root every phone I had long ago, but I stopped doing that when I started using Google Pay and Samsung Pay. These days, I don't find a lot of reason to root anyway.
spyderveloce said:
I got a new Watch 4 LTE from TMobile and I did get Google Pay set up on it, and it works, with limitations. It appears that when I tip my wrist back to place the watch near the reader, the screen shuts off and apparently, this may be preventing the NFC from working. If I contort myself the opposite direction so the screen doesn't shut off, Google pay works fine, but it's uncomfortable and just looks weird. As for Samsung Pay, I had it set up on my old watch and I told it I would be moving it to the new watch. This apparently requires an update of the watch app on the Watch 4, which consistently fails. I had a similar issue on my old watch and turning off WiFi on my phone seemed to fix it, but that's not the case here. Anyone have ideas? Can I sideload the Samsung Pay watch app through wireless ADB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I have the same issue with Google Pay. When I move my wrist to place it close to the card reader, a clock appears on top of the screen and prevents Google Pay from doing anything.. Really annoying.
I saw other people complaining about this as well on Reddit. Don't know what the solution is for now as I have already turned off the wrist gesture in the settings.
Hello, I tell you that I was able to make NFC payments work with the BBVA GO Apk in Argentina, I comment on why I think that in Latin America, it saved Chile, Brazil and Mexico, there is no application to use NFC Pay. If anyone is interested I can show them how I did. I cannot create a new thread as I am not reaching the level. Best regards Miguel.