Thought I would share my experience so no one else repeats this. I bought a micro usb ethernet device so I can hardwire my nexus player. Connected it to nexus player and it did not work. The ethernet device had an extra power cable for it. Thinking it may need more power, I foolishly connected power cable. Now nexus player doesn't even turn on (powerlight off). I'm afraid I may have shorted the motherboard. I was able to open up nexus player using guitar pick....but don't even know what to do. Spent alot of time tinkering with it too. So sad as I am now left with an oversized hockey puck Lesson learned.
Look for black marks or brown you can also take a multimeter and check components you would want to check any smd fuses first then trace back from the USB plug. I don't imagine that killing the whole thing. Does it respond at all?
mirrin said:
Look for black marks or brown you can also take a multimeter and check components you would want to check any smd fuses first then trace back from the USB plug. I don't imagine that killing the whole thing. Does it respond at all?
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Did not see any black or brown marks. Unfortunately it does not turn on at all. I'm getting desperate and am thinking of buying a new 12v 1.5 amp adapter. Do you think that may work? Thanks for your input.
Sent from my SM-N920C using Tapatalk
I don't think so if hypothetically the Ethernet adaptor delivered voltage to the usb port on the nexus player and now with just hdmi and power plugged in it wont turn on i doubt a new ac adapter will fix anything.
You can check your current adaptor if it is broken by using a multi-meter to see if it is providing 12v.
Can you link the Ethernet adaptor you tried to use? And what ac adaptor you plugged into it.
I can think of a few things that are not what you think they are that have ac adapter sockets. But i cant think of a single Ethernet to usb adapter that takes 12v all the ones i know would be a 5v adapter at most with more running off usb power...
I would look for a replacement nexus player not just the ac adaptor... Check target or walmart first they dropped them down to 20-40 when they got discontinued i wish i had picked up a second one now... i got 2 of the game controllers one for 29 one for 10...
mirrin said:
I don't think so if hypothetically the Ethernet adaptor delivered voltage to the usb port on the nexus player and now with just hdmi and power plugged in it wont turn on i doubt a new ac adapter will fix anything.
You can check your current adaptor if it is broken by using a multi-meter to see if it is providing 12v.
Can you link the Ethernet adaptor you tried to use? And what ac adaptor you plugged into it.
I can think of a few things that are not what you think they are that have ac adapter sockets. But i cant think of a single Ethernet to usb adapter that takes 12v all the ones i know would be a 5v adapter at most with more running off usb power...
I would look for a replacement nexus player not just the ac adaptor... Check target or walmart first they dropped them down to 20-40 when they got discontinued i wish i had picked up a second one now... i got 2 of the game controllers one for 29 one for 10...
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Yeah it is not the ac adapter. I tried an equivalent 12v 1.5amp and it still didn't turn on. When plugged in if I put my ear next to nexus player....I do hear a faint hissing sound, so there is some activity going on. I went out and bought a multi-meter and did what you suggested to check components tracing back to usb. This is all new stuff to me but I found that there was 0 reading on a tiny black rectangular module that has P15 on it. I'm assuming that is the smd fuse. Not even sure where to buy a replacement one. Tried to procure one from old computer board but was unsuccessful. Will search some more online on where to buy one and learn how to solder.
The ethernet I bought was http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-Micro...851881?hash=item567e4840e9:g:QEkAAOSwvt1WRYAO I wasn't thinking and plugged a 12v 1amp into it.
Only nexus player I see being sold is on ebay. I'm being persistent on reviving this one only because I spent alot of time on it already and am stubborn....lol But I will give up when I replace the P15 module and it still doesn't work. If nothing else at least I'm learning...so thank you.
Yes the little thing labled p15 is a fuse im about 80% i think p5 is also a fuse... you should get 0 resistance on them and they should be able to pass current switch the meter to Continuity mode and if the 2 probes are connected it should make a noise put them on either side of the fuses if they dont pass current they are likely blown as for replacements dangerous method would be to replace them with a wire otherwise they should be around .50 cents each from what i could find they are self resetting type so they should reset once any residual voltage is gone.
https://smile.amazon.com/uxcell-Fem...7_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E59QBEYB3WTBT3ST0YJF
Related
So, I purchases a USB OTG cable in an attempt to try and expand the functionality of Webtop while using Nebtop. I've been unable to get any response from the phone when I plug in this cable. I've tried my wireless Logitech mouse and keyboard that worked off the bat with my TF101 using the Unifying remote they came with as well as an external TB drive.
Has anyone else had any experience with this? It seems logical that the phone supports host mode since the actual dock has 3 full sized USB ports.
All the information pertaining to this sort of thing I've come up with seems extremely phone specific but if there's a simple solution I'm missing thanks all the more.
ri4naire said:
So, I purchases a USB OTG cable in an attempt to try and expand the functionality of Webtop while using Nebtop. I've been unable to get any response from the phone when I plug in this cable. I've tried my wireless Logitech mouse and keyboard that worked off the bat with my TF101 using the Unifying remote they came with as well as an external TB drive.
Has anyone else had any experience with this? It seems logical that the phone supports host mode since the actual dock has 3 full sized USB ports.
All the information pertaining to this sort of thing I've come up with seems extremely phone specific but if there's a simple solution I'm missing thanks all the more.
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Click to collapse
The problem actually lies in the usb port of the phone itself. The dock was designed for this purpose, and the dock app handles most that for you, the one thing that the dock is able to do that a straight USB cable can't do, is provide enough "bus" power to use a mouse or even a USB stick directly from the phone. If you want to use a Mouse you will need to get a dock. I got mine directly from wireless.att.com, and it was only $49.00 back in Nov. when I got it. It works VERY well with webtop.
P.S. Motorola is very famous for doing things like this to force you into a dock, or to lock out certain features that everyone really wants to use.
I made my own dock by using a powered usb hub I had sitting around (it was actually the one that came with Rock Band for my Xbox 360). I did have to modify it slightly so that the 1 pin was powered from the 5V (a simple shunt from the 5V inner pin of the power supply solder joint to the solder joint of the 1 pin worked fine--although it might be wise to insert an inline fuse since it also charges your phone while plugged in).
Otherwise, the only other thing needed is coming in the form of your otg adapter that should short the 5 pin (common) with your 4 pin (ID). I did this by cracking open an extra micro usb cable and soldering a wire between the two.
So, my setup was like this:
1. Modified usb cable to short the 4 & 5 pins to let the phone know to go into host
2. Use a female A-female A usb coupler to join the usb cable to the powered hub (I got mine here from Monoprice
3. Get 5V to the 1 pin in the usb hub to provide power to your phone and for whatever is plugged into the hub.
With this, I was easily able to run a usb mouse and a wireless keyboard that had a usb dongle. Paired with a micro hdmi cable to hdmi-dvi adapter, I am able to use my office monitor and the webtop linux. I honestly haven't really used it much yet (if I found it really useful, I probably would have just paid for the dock).
The obvious easy way is to just get the dock. However, I really like being able to do this on my own and since I had this stuff already laying around. Also, the cheap prices from monoprice (I actually made $4 off of the purchase from a PayPal bill-me-later promotion).
So, you should be able to get it to work if you get power to the bus on your usb (but again, it might be safe to pass an appropriate fast-acting fuse, ferrite core, or something to protect from surges). I haven't had issue yet, but I also don't use it often...yet .
It sounds like a bit of yes and a bit of no. The OTG cable I got is microUSB to female full USB, am I going to need to modify this cable as you've described by crossing the 4th and 5th pins?
I'm thinking about ordering this "7 Port USB Squid Hub" since it has the 5v power adapter, do you think it might work?
Just one more question and thanks for all the help but should I not see any response from the phone when I plug in the cable? I read through some of the reviews for cheap cables on Amazon and apparently sometimes they're just useless.
ri4naire said:
It sounds like a bit of yes and a bit of no. The OTG cable I got is microUSB to female full USB, am I going to need to modify this cable as you've described by crossing the 4th and 5th pins?
I'm thinking about ordering this "7 Port USB Squid Hub" since it has the 5v power adapter, do you think it might work?
Just one more question and thanks for all the help but should I not see any response from the phone when I plug in the cable? I read through some of the reviews for cheap cables on Amazon and apparently sometimes they're just useless.
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Click to collapse
The OTG cable have should work. The OTG cable, to my knowledge, should already have pins 4 & 5 shorted together. I'm not completely certain, but if it's designed as an OTG, it would probably already have that done. If you have an ohmmeter/multimeter, you could try to check (it's hard to isolate the small pins, but you can try). If it's already going to the USB female (type A), you will then be able to directly attach your hub when you get it (without the need of the coupler I had to get).
When I used mine, there was no notification that said "Hey, I'm in USB Host Mode!". However, if you successfully have a mouse attached, you'll see a mouse cursor arrow on your screen.
Have fun with it and if you can't get it to work, let me know and I'll try to explain with even more detail (perhaps with some pretty pictures) of what I did. I more or less went off of what I could glean from reading what others did.
It works great! Also, it is weird to see the mouse on this little a screen, it seems oversized.
I just plugged everything in and it worked off the bat. I'm using just two items from Amazon I got for under 12 bucks (plus, of course, the keyboard and mouse I already had for my computer). I don' think I can post links to the forums yet but the ASINs for the items if people want to do this on the super cheap are as follows:
B0043TBCDS 7 Port USB Squid Hub, a whopping $5.19
B005N55WHI Micro-B USB OTG Cable... $5.99
I chose these because of their Prime eligibility and also for their form factor so as not to cover the HDMI port, I bet it's not impossible to get these even cheaper.
While this isn't technically a replacement for the dock since I had to root the device and I have to press "Load" in Nebtop if I want to go to Webtop I'm extremely pleased with the results.
I also love that all the soft keys are available. The ones I've discovered are that right button on the mouse as well as Esc are Back, the Home key is Home, clicking the wheel as well as Ctrl, Cmd, Alt and a whole slew of others bring up the Menu, but all I can find is F5 for Search.
On another note, while the phone does charge when hooked up, a practical boon, the screen still times out despite having the "Stay awake" feature checked. This is annonying when the phone is on it's side accross the room and I have to squint to see the cursor and swipe it unlocked sideways as well as click back into Mirror Display.
I'm looking to mount my phone to the "A" pillar in my car, but I don't want cords running all over the place. I'm looking at doing an install similar to what people do with radar detectors by hooking into the fuse box inside the car (with an adapter like the one found here). This would be just for power. I understand how to wire it up theoretically (don't need to hook up the data wires, just the power and ground). I'm just looking for a mentor to make sure I do it right.
Has anyone ever done something like this using an adapter like the one I've mentioned? And what size fuse did you use for the install so you don't hurt the phone?
On a side note, I'm driving a 2006 VW Jetta, if that helps in any way.
mgs991099a said:
I'm looking to mount my phone to the "A" pillar in my car, but I don't want cords running all over the place. I'm looking at doing an install similar to what people do with radar detectors by hooking into the fuse box inside the car (with an adapter like the one found here). This would be just for power. I understand how to wire it up theoretically (don't need to hook up the data wires, just the power and ground). I'm just looking for a mentor to make sure I do it right.
Has anyone ever done something like this using an adapter like the one I've mentioned? And what size fuse did you use for the install so you don't hurt the phone?
On a side note, I'm driving a 2006 VW Jetta, if that helps in any way.
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When I bought my car it had some hard wired cable like that, plugged an old phone in to be safe and it didn't charge properly. I scrapped the idea and just got a car deck with double usb and ran the usb to my arm console.
j.kelly said:
When I bought my car it had some hard wired cable like that, plugged an old phone in to be safe and it didn't charge properly. I scrapped the idea and just got a car deck with double usb and ran the usb to my arm console.
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I'm trying to not have cables running everywhere like I currently do. I've already got an aftermarket XM radio next to my radio which uses up a cigarette light adapter already.
mgs991099a said:
I'm trying to not have cables running everywhere like I currently do. I've already got an aftermarket XM radio next to my radio which uses up a cigarette light adapter already.
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What exactly do you need help with? - There are 4 wires in the usb cord. Use red for positive wire but DO NOT connect directly to 12v. USB is 5v so connecting to anything higher WILL fry your phone. You will need to get something that converts 12VDC to 5VDC. Red wire is 5v positive and black is your negative (ground). If you wanna do it cheap and easy, go buy a usb cigarette adapter, take it apart, then take the wires going to the metal connectors and connect them to your power and ground. then just plug in your usb cord and hide the whole thing in the dash.
Hope this helps.
djspreewell17 said:
What exactly do you need help with? - There are 4 wires in the usb cord. Use red for positive wire but DO NOT connect directly to 12v. USB is 5v so connecting to anything higher WILL fry your phone. You will need to get something that converts 12VDC to 5VDC. Red wire is 5v positive and black is your negative (ground). If you wanna do it cheap and easy, go buy a usb cigarette adapter, take it apart, then take the wires going to the metal connectors and connect them to your power and ground. then just plug in your usb cord and hide the whole thing in the dash.
Hope this helps.
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Yeah, I started looking into it and realized that 5V /= 12V. I'm currently looking at using an old cigarette lighter adapters internals and wiring them into one of those fuse adapters (it'll convert the 12V down to 5V), then take the wires and hook them into a USB cable. I've got to do some measurements and all, so I'll respond back with some pictures of when I start the project. Should cost less than $20 and about an hour of time.
Website showing detail
Alright, I have finally done the project (just have to hook it up). This website shows all of the details. I did use an add-a-fuse instead, but it is essentially the same idea. I will be adding it into my car later today.
On my quest to make an adapter to use my Atrix Lapdock with my S4 I already destroyed an mhl adapter, and now I want to try this dock from ebay.
Has anyone had any experience with it?
Let me know, looks nice.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using xda app-developers app
Be careful. I bought one of these on Amazon a while back...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4CVT7A/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
...and I realize it might not be the same exact thing, but it looks similar in construction.
About 2 weeks after I started using it, it started shorting out and sparking! I was lucky that I was right beside it when it started happening and got my phone out of it before any damage was done. The problem was with the wiring / circuitry in the base of the unit. I threw it away immediately.
So, hopefully your will work a lot better, just be careful.
scott14719 said:
Be careful. I bought one of these on Amazon a while back...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4CVT7A/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
...and I realize it might not be the same exact thing, but it looks similar in construction.
About 2 weeks after I started using it, it started shorting out and sparking! I was lucky that I was right beside it when it started happening and got my phone out of it before any damage was done. The problem was with the wiring / circuitry in the base of the unit. I threw it away immediately.
So, hopefully your will work a lot better, just be careful.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the info. I usually buy stuff from DX, so I'm quite used to opening and doing a good quality check for every item I buy before using it!
I got the item, it works good and the build quality is good.
BUT, when you connect an external power supply, the power to the usb host port gets disconnected and the usb lines get shorted. So you can use either the USB OR the HDMI. There are 3 relays inside the device; by disabling the top one you can do the 500ms short trick and get the HDMI + USB HOST + CHARGING features, but it takes some effort.
gip_mad said:
I got the item, it works good and the build quality is good.
BUT, when you connect an external power supply, the power to the usb host port gets disconnected and the usb lines get shorted. So you can use either the USB OR the HDMI. There are 3 relays inside the device; by disabling the top one you can do the 500ms short trick and get the HDMI + USB HOST + CHARGING features, but it takes some effort.
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Are you able to use or make a charge only cable (only 5V and ground)? That way the USB data lines should not be affected if the charger shorts the data pins.
Or is the one of the relays shorting the data pins inside the adapter?
Sorry, maybe I didn't explain correctly. The adapter shorts the phone's usb data pins, everything else is untouched. A delay circuit is implemented too, so it looks like they tried to do the 500ms trick but failed miserably so they sold the dock as is.
has anyone got any further with this project? I have an original Samsung smart dock and have now got the hdmi converters but nothing is shown on the lapdock screen. The adaptors and lapdock work fine as I have had it connected to my sky hd box?
Hi, did you try the adapters with a TV? My adapters work well and send a (distorted) image to the lapdock..
Yes I tried them both ways as an output to a tv and also an input to a moniter
looks pretty interesting. huh
Hi all,
I have a Philips AS111 docking station/bluetooth speaker/charger. Worked perfectly for my SGS2, however, since I bought a new phone (Sony Xperia Z1 Compact) I'm experiencing some problems.
I bought an micro usb to magnetic connector adapter to be able to connect my phone to the dock without having to open the flaps all the time. I took it apart and it basicly splits the first and fifth pin of the micro USB connector to the pins in the magnetic connector. Unfortunately I may not link to external images...
Unfortunately, my phone does not charge when using the adapter in combination with the Philips dock. It does when using the original Sony USB charger and the adapter, so the adapter is fine.
I measured the voltage on the two pins, and it's 0V. I even tried to fool the dock by putting a 1.5kOhm resistor over several lines. Only when I put a 1.5kOhm resistor between 5V and the connector housing, the dock responded by turning on Bluetooth. Voltage went crazy, flipping between 0 and 3V, but phone still doesn't charge.
I think the sollution is to fool the dock by putting a certain resistor between certain lines or by shorting certain lines. Does anyone have a clue how to fool the dock to think there is a device connected, so it opens the +5V line?
Thank you very much!
Nobody into usb connection protocols? :crying:
Finally got it working. Eventually I needed to connect two wires together inside the device. One of them being 'CLAS1' and the other was Ground. Both could be found on the connector going to the micro usb plug of the device. Unfortunately I can not post a link to the photo I made of it.
mblox said:
Finally got it working. Eventually I needed to connect two wires together inside the device. One of them being 'CLAS1' and the other was Ground. Both could be found on the connector going to the micro usb plug of the device. Unfortunately I can not post a link to the photo I made of it.
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Hello!
I've just bought an AS111. Charges perfectly my SGS4 but it doesn't do a thing when I try connecting my SGN3 (the one with the micro-usb 3 connector) to the Philips dock. I know that the micro-usb 3 is backwards compatible but I do believe that the AS111's dock outputs too little power - or something like that, I am no expert.
I was wondering that maybe your experience could be of help to me. What do you think? If so, could you please guide me through the stuff you did to the dock? Thank you!
Anybody knows if its possible to connect usb OTG host and charge the tablet at the same time, i found out a way to enable adoptable storage on USB drives so im planning to offload my console games(borderlands, half-life,etc) to an external hard drive cause i only play them at home when im in console mode, and if it is possible anybody knows where to get one from a reliable seller?
Haha just bought an adapter on amazon.
Niii4 said:
Haha just bought an adapter on amazon.
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Does it work charge and enable usb host at the same time? The current one i have acts weird, if i leave tablet alone, usb plugged in host mode as adopted storage my k1 charges, but if i start using it, even on light usage, battery discharges even if it indicates it is charging
Haven't tried it yet. I'll let you know ASAP when I've tested it.
This thread is a little old but still applies:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...share_tid=2949321&share_fid=3793&share_type=t
USB OTG and Y cables?
Sent from my SHIELD Tablet K1 using Tapatalk
Okay, they one I've got is damaged. Gotta send it back.
The ones Exile suggested I've one of them. Though, they connect all to big female USB! So you'd need another USB cable (Big male USB to micro male USB for the tab).
I've been using this one, and it works pretty well for charging and using OTG at the same time. But it won't recognize USB devices unless the charger is plugged in, probably because it has a built-in hub.
https://www.amazon.com/Adaptor-Powe...=1474901496&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+otg+cable+hub
Thank you for the replies and suggestions, looks like the one im gettting is the same one by @primaleph
Y OTG cables do NOT work with the Shield. I tested a bunch and it's either charging or gamepad but never both simultaneously.
Niii4 said:
Y OTG cables do NOT work with the Shield. I tested a bunch and it's either charging or gamepad but never both simultaneously.
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Well actually they do, very2 slow, i hooked the OTG i bought to my charger, my tablet and my printer, then started doing some typing work while listening to some tracks on spotify max volume and at about 20% brightness,, after i finished and checked my battery it went up from 95 to 97, also tried the same with a usb attached, so for light loads it does charge but for gaming, even i lose charge when playing games such as vain glory while the tablet is directly charging so im sure its still gonna drain but probably not as fast as not charging at all, or another thing is not all OTG Y cables are configured the same me and @primaleph just got lucky with the ones we got and yours are probably the not compatible ones
A printer?
Anyhow, it doesn't show the lightning symbol if two devices like charger and gamepad are simultaneously connected. Whereas, using just one of the devices works.
Niii4 said:
A printer?
Anyhow, it doesn't show the lightning symbol if two devices like charger and gamepad are simultaneously connected. Whereas, using just one of the devices works.
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Yeah i use an app called printershare, it allows me to use printers directly via usb connection cause i still own those old printers with no wifi connection costs 10 bucks for the license though, i tried with my old usb gamepad and it also charges and gamepad works, i think you need a more powerful charger, i use a tronsmart quickcharge 3.0 with a 2nd port with a max of 6.5V 3amp output which i use to charge it in OTG mode, 5V 2amp chargers should work but sometimes the power cuts out on The devices being connected, happened to me while on a boat trip, boring 2hr ride, me and GF wanted to listen to some music but we both own over the ear headphones not those little earphones, i charge my shield with a powerbank that provides 5V 2A output, plug it in the OTG and use a usb soundcard with with two audio jacks so we both could listen and throughout the trip there are times the soundcard would lose power which was pretty annoying,
Heres a screen recording where it is charging and i attach devices one by one to my shield tablet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3miSU6FpDg
i bought this one , it work not enough quick and don t know if i did well,
i use mode 1 , plug hdd then plug charge, in video they use mode 2