Related
I thought it would be nice if we cfoudl get some Q&A going about this topic.
I'd like to hear which Tornado ROMs seem to have good working A2DP, which BT stack they use (if you know), what headset/remote you're using.
I'd also like to know if anyone can give use directions for checking what stack our phone is using.
I'd also like to know your opinions on volume, hiss, etc.
If you are satisfied or unsatisfied with your volume, please include your audiogain settings for comparision:
HKLM\SOFTWARE\HTC\AUDIOGAIN
(note: audiogain settings are in hexidecimal)
Here is some info on A2DP reg tweaking, that is supposed to be relevant to the WM6 bt stack.
i.e. from the "final" or "official" released, not a beta.
[ Default Settings are as follows: ]
HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Bluetooth\A2DP\Settings\
BitPool DWORD 30
MaxSupportedBitPool DWORD 30
SampleRate
UseJointStereo DWORD 1
HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Bluetooth\AudioGateway\
Capability DWORD 37
[ Aternate Settings: ]
HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Bluetooth\A2DP\Settings\
BitPool DWORD 51
MaxSupportedBitPool DWORD 60
SampleRate DWORD 48000
UseJointStereo DWORD 0
Cant remember if i changed the one below or it was already at that value.
HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Bluetooth\AudioGateway\
Capability DWORD 60
-----------------
[ Sleuth255's WM6 optimum settings for bluetooth A2DP: ]
These are applicable to the newer releases of WM6.
Finding #1:
ADD/CHANGE the following values from the registry at HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Bluetooth\A2DP\Settings :
Name: UseJointStereo
Value (DWORD): 1
What this does is enable Joint-Stereo for the SBC codec, which is important and makes the biggest significant change to improve sound quality. (Note: In earlier versions of WM5 and WM6, Joint-Stereo was broken and resulted in a mono-output. This is not the case anymore with the newer WM6 ROMS.)
Further note: Sleuth255 found that some of his A2DP headsets could not work with JS turned on. In that case, you have to set the value to 0 to disable JS (resulting in poorer quality sound with more "hissing").
Finding #2:
REMOVE the following values from the registry at HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Bluetooth\A2DP\Settings if they are present:
- BitPool
- MaxSupportedBitPool
These values are used to manually set limits for the BT stack for the A2DP SBC codec. Previously, it was thought that these values should be set between 38 to 86. But if the values are removed, I think that the BT stack automatically chooses the best BitPool values for maximum quality. I've tried removing these values and the sound quality either improved or at least stayed the same.
[ SUMMARY ]
At this point, you should have only one value in the registry at HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Bluetooth\A2DP\Settings:
UseJointStereo = 1
Your A2DP audio should be very good at this point - almost indistinguishable from a wired headset. However, if you are still unsatisfied with the sound (you may notice some very slight "hissing" or "swishing" sounds on high frequencies of certain songs), you may want to try the optional setting below.
[ OPTIONAL ]
Finding #3:
This is optional, and a matter of preference.
ADD the following value to the registry at HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Bluetooth\A2DP\Settings:
Name: SampleRate
Value (DWORD): 48000 (decimal)
This forces the A2DP stack to send the audio to the headset at 48000Hz instead of the default 44100Hz. For some reason, I find that the 48Khz value makes the "hissing" sounds less obvious. Your findings may vary, as some people may prefer the slightly more forward sound of the original setting. But if you are game, give this a try - one thing for sure is that it definitely changes the sound quality.
To reverse the change, just remove the SampleRate value.
If you make this 3rd optional change, you should have the following values in the registry at HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Bluetooth\A2DP\Settings:
UseJointStereo = 1
SampleRate = 48000
[ Note - Quick tip on registry editing ]
Of course, every registry change needs a soft-reset to take effect. And please take the usual proper care when editing the registry or risk damaging your device.
Find that your settings dont "stick" after a reset?
Make sure you reset the phone like this: After making changes to the registry, exit your registry editor. Then push the power button of your phone (putting it into standby, with the screen off). Wait for about 10 seconds (the phone will be saving the data to disk during this time), and only after that push the reset button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like to quote my sources, but I don't have the links at this moment. I will update them later.
Varied...
My experience across four or five builds has always been mixed. My older Motorolas work fine but my newer S9s dropout periodically. Interestingly, not all builds have the same result when I use them for handsfree. Some builds give me the voice I am speaking to in mono and some in stereo. Currently I am using Nitro's build from a month ago.
I have already exchanged the S9s once, so it wasn't specific to that one headset.
Exitao - Do you have dropouts periodically? What headset do you have?
kkrull said:
My experience across four or five builds has always been mixed. My older Motorolas work fine but my newer S9s dropout periodically. Interestingly, not all builds have the same result when I use them for handsfree. Some builds give me the voice I am speaking to in mono and some in stereo. Currently I am using Nitro's build from a month ago.
I have already exchanged the S9s once, so it wasn't specific to that one headset.
Exitao - Do you have dropouts periodically? What headset do you have?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I was intending to post my personal details soon.
I am using a Sonorix C3
Standards Bluetooth Specification V2.0
RF Frequency Range 2402 ~ 2480 MHz
Profiles Supported A2DP, AVRCP, Headset, Handsfree V1.5
Transmission Power 0.25 ~ 2.5mW (Bluetooth Power Class 2)
Receiver Sensitivity < -80dBm (PER 1 %)
Distance 10m (in open space)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am using EA's Chinese "WM6 5.2.318.18120" ROM:
http://bbs.koxo.cn/thread-14687-1-1.html
Currently my headset (well, the remote dongle, really) supports stereo playback, call display and bt handsfree usage.
Reception seems very clear. Mic pickup is sensitive and noise cancellation seems to be just as sensitive (I was holding the mic in my hand and gesturing madly one day, and realised what I was doing).
My only complain is the volume. I need to muck about in the audiogain settings to increase it.
As for what bt stack I'm using, I have no clue.
If I dump the zip file from this link, http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=263735&highlight=a2dp the bta2dp.dll was last modified on april, 2006. When I look in the windows directory of my phone, it only tells me I flashed it. I guess I have to dump the ROM to find out.
There is also the problem that the WiMP in my ROM can't handle VBR files. I'll be updating to vjgrace's 3.5 ROM shortly.
edit:
No dropouts. Mostly it is a fight to manage system resources on the phone.
any ppl know how yo make when the phone ringtone can ring in bluetooth.
mean we can listen the ring tone from bluetooth.
I have been scouring the discussion board looking for tweaks to the A2DP settings. I have a custom rom but don't think anything was done to enhance the bluetooth settings. I think the sound can be much better but can't find current tweaks with the new stack. So i ask you all, if you have made tweaks to your Bluetooth Audio and are pleased with the sound, what tweaks have you made?
Thanks in Advance!
I am using motorla S9's and the top end sound is washy,tinny.
if you use advance comfig it has bluetooth settings you can adjust
are the s9s comfortable for you? i have the s9 hds and they kill my ears
They are not bad. I can get them to be just right.
I know about the configuration tool, but I am not sure where to go with certain settings? i.e. Bitpool, joint stereo etc. Right now i have bitpool at Medium and it's still kinda crappy - on the high end.
lbhocky19 said:
if you use advance comfig it has bluetooth settings you can adjust
are the s9s comfortable for you? i have the s9 hds and they kill my ears
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With S9 there is a very fine line between barely noticing they are on and utter discomfort, and it all depends on how you wear them.
Unfortunately there isn't a way to describe it, but there is a sweet spot, a position where it seems to be perfect.
Smaniac said:
With S9 there is a very fine line between barely noticing they are on and utter discomfort, and it all depends on how you wear them.
Unfortunately there isn't a way to describe it, but there is a sweet spot, a position where it seems to be perfect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i may have found the way you describe but when you have them in do they just rest in your ear or do you actually have them like in the canal like most noice isolating ones?
ive used the new zune ones and some shure ones that you really push in your ear but these i can only seem to get just barely in and you dont get the great bass unless you kinda push them which isnt practical
Bluetooth Settings
I use the following bluetooth settings-changed thru the advance config 3.3 tool
bitpool very high
Max bitpool 80
Min bitpool 30
sampling 48000
This sounds really good thru by jabra 620s
thanks for the data - I will go with those settings.
in2vnyl said:
I use the following bluetooth settings-changed thru the advance config 3.3 tool
bitpool very high
Max bitpool 80
Min bitpool 30
sampling 48000
This sounds really good thru by jabra 620s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what do you use to listen to your music? I try using the HTC player with setting way low than yours and I get tremendous skipping and songs that are "busy", for talk radio they're fine but almost every song skips. my settings are
bitpool=25
max=60
min=15
sampling=44000
no stereo
I had these problems with my apache but I figured that the Touch Pro would be quick enough for this. Could someone please point me in the right direction to not skip. thanks in advance.
with the settings very high does your phone slow down?
it always makes tf3d real laggy and such whenever i play music over stereo with high bluetooth quality
in2vnyl said:
I use the following bluetooth settings-changed thru the advance config 3.3 tool
bitpool very high
Max bitpool 80
Min bitpool 30
sampling 48000
This sounds really good thru by jabra 620s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am going to try out these settings. I just tried switching bitpool to high and no other tweaks and the sound was still pretty bad, I would almost venture to say worse than FM radio. I never had any problems with A2DP quality on my Tilt and I never touched a setting so I'm pretty disappointed. Hopefully this will fix it.
S9 Working good on Fuze
I have mine on low and no skips, not sure if very low sounded better. Maybe it will work for you
To summarize:
What is the configuration that you ultilizam in bluetooth?
The greater BITPOOL higher "quality" and lower performance of Bluetooth (signal power) right?
My device is HTC Diamond and Motorola S9 (A2DP)
What configuration i use?
one question:
Joint stereo - Yes?
PC400 said:
one question:
Joint stereo - Yes?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just try this simple settings, sounds great, no skipping at all.
Joint Stereo -> NO
reason is becos it would not be true/real stereo if we choose YES... right?
I use the following registry setting.
HKLM/Software/Microsoft/Bluetooth/A2DP/Settings
Bitpool - 76
MaxSupportedBitPool - 80
SampleRate - 48000
UseJointStereo - 0
This is what I have ended up with through trial and error, give this a go. However I think assuming joint stereo doesn't give you real stereo is simplistic and incorrect. I have had a bit of a read and it is quite complicated.
I wouldn't worry about it too much, just try both and see what you think sounds better.
All A2DP confused people must read this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=310438
I'm getting a bit frustrated with the bluetooth on my touch pro.
My current settings are
bitpool very high
Max bitpool 80
Min bitpool 30
sampling 48000
No skipping all is fine until I go walkabout and put the phone in my pocket.
Skip skip skipitty skip.
Tried other settings but still no joy.
Help........
Hi forum,
since I do so hard to find information what and how to send on can bus to my Mtcd Lm Px5 unit for Mercedes Benz A class to get any reaction I sum up the little I found up to now, so others can add.
I found some sites saying Mercedes Comfort Can (B?) uses 83.3 kbps low speed can.
Besides the lower baud rate low speed can uses another termination causing other levels on can rezessive.
While Highspeed Can uses 120 Ohm between CanHi/Lo each end, each LowSpeed Can node terminates CanHi against GND and CanLo against VCC by some resistance, the overall resistance shall be 100 Ohm but not less then 500 Ohm on a tja1055 transceiver, described in detail in follow document:
https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/supporting-information/AH0801.pdf
I can't find any boards with Low Speed Can Transceivers on the net but comparing drivers and input logic of a tja1050 HighSpeed and a tja1055 LowSpeed transceiver it is may be possible to use an tja1050 with external low speed termination as described for low speed can.
I can measure minus 10.x Volt between the unconnected CanHi and CanLo Lines of my unit matching the described low speed termination.
..
If there is somebody out there having sucessfully sent something to an unit for Mercedes Benz I will gladly do what he have done.
I now at least get Can Acks from my mtcd_lm unit sending with 83.3 kbps with an mcp2515/tj1050 without termination and nothing else at the bus, unit in deep sleep or up.
I get nothing logged in the factory settings logcan logger, don't know if the number in the upper right corner matters.
I now found all info on mbworld.org, the radio can bus is Can B / Body Can, 83 kbps low speed, spec:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1Rb8jOWwErbQ19CM3dnZmsyRlU/view
a lot of info to Mercedes Message Ids and the mbworld.org thread:
https://github.com/jumph4x/can-bus-w211.git
https://mbworld.org/forums/audio-electronics/580108-w211-can-b-hacking.html
I now can switch on and off unit with raspberry pi and mcp2515/tja1050, no termination, nothing else at bus:
sudo ip link set can0 up type can bitrate 83300 loopback off
cansend can0 000#FF
cansend can0 000#FF --> On
cansend can0 000#00 --> Off
I still get nothing with the factory settings logcan logger, will try other ids for steering wheel buttons next.
Good to know that are you looking into the issue from the HW side .Several people with Mercedes have similar issues with CanBus.
I also create a thread here > https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...t/adapter-help-mercedes-t3903165#post79005544 not so technical though.
It seems that we might need a more robust CanBus adapter and i cannot find any info where to buy one or create a custom made using raspberry or arduino. I assume you are focusing on the second ?
So I finally got fed up enough to purchase a USB-C DAC dongle to overcome the unbearable hissing noise of the inbuilt 3.5mm audio jack. The first obvious choice would be a Pixel dongle, but for some reason Apple is selling a better performing dongle. Being cheaper and available in a mortar store, it was a no brainer purchase. I can definitely say that hissing is gone and sound is crystal clear. However for yet another reason, Apple dongle is by default quite limited in power, being usable mainly by sensitive IEMs. After several attempts of various methods, I found a reliable way of removing this limit.
Ingredients needed:
1. Apple DAC dongle
2. Tasker
3. Magisk
4. AlsaMixer app (https://apkpure.com/alsamixer-root/com.skvalex.alsamixer)
Recipe:
1. Extract AlsaMixer app and locate "assets\alsa\system" folder
2. Create a Magisk module from this folder with 755/755 rights
3. Install Magisk module
4. Create a Tasker event "headphones connected", task "shell script", run as root, command "alsa_amixer -c 1 sset Headphone 120"
5. Connect Apple dongle
Voila, you suddenly moved from -40dB limit to 0db for max volume. Limit is automatically reset on each DAC re-connection, so Tasker intent is mandatory.
Verification:
1. In terminal write as root "alsa_amixer -c 1" to see the current playback limit. It obviously works only with DAC connected.
Note: this method works only for USB-C DACs, not for analog audio jack of Mi A1 phone.
Default:
Code:
# [B]alsa_amixer -c 1[/B]
Simple mixer control 'Headphone',0
Capabilities: pvolume pswitch pswitch-joined penum
Playback channels: Front Left - Front Right
Limits: Playback 0 - 120
Mono:
Front Left:[B] Playback 80 [67%] [-40.00dB][/B] [on]
Front Right:[B] Playback 80 [67%] [-40.00dB][/B] [on]
Headphones with no mic:
Code:
# [B]alsa_amixer -c 1 sset Headphone 120[/B]
Simple mixer control 'Headphone',0
Capabilities: pvolume pswitch pswitch-joined penum
Playback channels: Front Left - Front Right
Limits: Playback 0 - 120
Mono:
Front Left: [B]Playback 120 [100%] [0.00dB][/B] [on]
Front Right: [B]Playback 120 [100%] [0.00dB][/B] [on]
Headset with a mic:
Code:
# [B]alsa_amixer -c 1 sset Headset,1 120[/B]
Simple mixer control 'Headset',1
Capabilities: pvolume pswitch pswitch-joined penum
Playback channels: Front Left - Front Right
Limits: Playback 0 - 120
Mono:
Front Left: [B]Playback 120 [100%] [0.00dB][/B] [on]
Front Right: [B]Playback 120 [100%] [0.00dB][/B] [on]
--first post updated--
Why don't you use tinymix, that is included on any Android release, instead of alsa_mixer so that you don't need to install other stuff?
drizzt said:
Why don't you use tinymix, that is included on any Android release, instead of alsa_mixer so that you don't need to install other stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wasn't aware of this fact, thanks. Will check tinymix, but alsa seems to be much easier to use for this purpose (at least for me ).
Edit:tinymix is just too complex to use and control commands probably aren't 100% universal with all DACs, so I'll stay with ALSA and Tasker. If I wanted to utilize tinymix, I'd just use this app (Apple dongle requires special version) https://forum.xda-developers.com/pixel-2-xl/themes/pixel-2-usb-audio-control-t3704024
Hissing sound? Bro have you checked the internals of your phone? I did and I had a snake inside, after getting him out everything was fine
Yes, I have a very inteligent snake in there, which hisses only when I connect headphones and only during music playback + about 3 seconds once it stops. Also the snake is able to distinguish between sensitive low impedance IEMs and less sensitive bigger headphones, so it adjusts volume of its hissing accordingly. What's even more interesting, he keeps quiet when I connect an external DAC. I want to keep the snake, so I won't remove it from the phone.
Well, it's that or there's ****ty audio output circuit in the phone.
Fixes the PH-1 !
I came across your thread while looking for a fix for the Apple dongle when used with the Essential PH-1. The problem is when using a TRS headset with this specific dongle+phone combo the left and right channels are at significantly different volumes. A TRRS headset does not exhibit this issue.
TRRS reports Headset,1
TRS reports PCM,0
I renamed xbin to bin. Not sure if that is the right solution, but the tools were not showing up before. A quick Tasker task and it's all set!
Thank you so much!!
numanair said:
I came across your thread while looking for a fix for the Apple dongle when used with the Essential PH-1. The problem is when using a TRS headset with this specific dongle+phone combo the left and right channels are at significantly different volumes. A TRRS headset does not exhibit this issue.
TRRS reports Headset,1
TRS reports PCM,0
I renamed xbin to bin. Not sure if that is the right solution, but the tools were not showing up before. A quick Tasker task and it's all set!
Thank you so much!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for letting us know and I'm glad this guide helped you. Different phones can have different bin folder and also parameters for alsa-mixer, so you did the right thing.
Works on Oneplus 7 pro (Android 10). Just had to change "Headphone" to "Headset" in the alsa_amixer command.
Been trying to get a magisk module made for this on my Razer Phone 2 and it took me quite a while since I kept getting errors. I got fed up and decided to try Samsung's dongle since that surely would've been optimized for Androids, but it seems that it also had the same exact issue (go figure, Samsung practically copied Apple 100%). The Samsung dongle is the same quality as Apple's dongle for sound quality (albeit a tiny bit worse, practically unnoticeable) and also, the same volume output from the same set of earbuds at max. So back to figuring out the whole magisk module thing.
Anyways I got the issue resolved. I remade the module I had on my pc rather than doing it on the phone itself and the error magically went away, and the whole thing is working wonderfully now. Even works for the Samsung USB-C 3.5mm dongle, with a different value. 108 for the Samsung dongle rather than Apple's 120.
Thank you for posting the guide, super helpful to fix this issue for the Apple and Samsung dongles on Android in general.
Thanks for this thread. Could I use this stuff to fix my AirPods Pro with my OnePlus 7 Pro? I have to set the volume to max to hear something in the bus ;-;
cedricberger27 said:
Thanks for this thread. Could I use this stuff to fix my AirPods Pro with my OnePlus 7 Pro? I have to set the volume to max to hear something in the bus ;-;
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm afraid that it's not possible to control external amplifier connected over bluetooth (or at least I don't know about any way how to do it). USB-C dongle can be configured because Android sees it connected "internally" as a sound card. AirPods and similar have DAC ("sound card") in the earphones and phone can use only standard Bluetooth commands to send music and perform basic control. AFAIK, changing the gain parameters isn't among them.
kenvenin said:
Works on Oneplus 7 pro (Android 10). Just had to change "Headphone" to "Headset" in the alsa_amixer command.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
brother, i tried to make the module for my OnePlus 6 but can't get it to work. it will be great help if you please share your magisk module. thanks in advanced
Can someone upload this module here? Or maybe give some tutorial how to make a magisk module? I was searching for this, but I didn't find it.
Adamz274 said:
Can someone upload this module here? Or maybe give some tutorial how to make a magisk module? I was searching for this, but I didn't find it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if it's still working (I created and installed this module while on Magisk v19 and modules format changed since then), you might need to update "META-INF\com\google\android\update-binary" script with the latest version from here https://topjohnwu.github.io/Magisk/guides.html (and maybe remove "install.sh")
EU/USA Model
_mysiak_ said:
Not sure if it's still working (I created and installed this module while on Magisk v19 and modules format changed since then), you might need to update "META-INF\com\google\android\update-binary" script with the latest version from here https://topjohnwu.github.io/Magisk/guides.html (and maybe remove "install.sh")
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I misunderstood but from everything I have read, the EU version of the Apple Adapter is worse, much quieter. I thought that was in the hardware, the US version is full power.
'There are 2 versions of it, US version A2049 which could output 1v, and EU version A2155 which limited to 0.5v' from another source
https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/ecf1ud/apple_usbc_to_35mm_adapter_impressions/
Is this 'fix' able to achieve the full 1v power output on the EU Model ?
poster74 said:
Maybe I misunderstood but from everything I have read, the EU version of the Apple Adapter is worse, much quieter. I thought that was in the hardware, the US version is full power.
'There are 2 versions of it, US version A2049 which could output 1v, and EU version A2155 which limited to 0.5v' from another source
https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/ecf1ud/apple_usbc_to_35mm_adapter_impressions/
Is this 'fix' able to achieve the full 1v power output on the EU Model ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as I know it's SW limitation, affecting mostly Android phones (not sure about Apple devices, I don't own any). My phone and dongle come from the official EU distribution, so I assume that it's the EU version. The fix definitely removes the power limit. I do not have an US dongle (or measurement device), so can't compare them though. All I can say for sure it's that with sensitive IEMs the dongle is dead silent, there is no hissing noise. At the same time, and after removing the power limit, the dongle can drive AKG K240MK2 (55ohms) cans without problems. It struggles a bit with Beyerdynamic DT990pro (250ohm) - depending on the sound source, volume can (Google music) or won't be enough (most Youtube videos).
Hi,
I appreciate you dont have meter to measure output but are you saying that this fix seems to increase the volume limit significantly ? The US version is supposed 1v against EU 0.5V.
Does this fix, 'feel' that much louder ?
_mysiak_ said:
As far as I know it's SW limitation, affecting mostly Android phones (not sure about Apple devices, I don't own any). My phone and dongle come from the official EU distribution, so I assume that it's the EU version. The fix definitely removes the power limit. I do not have an US dongle (or measurement device), so can't compare them though. All I can say for sure it's that with sensitive IEMs the dongle is dead silent, there is no hissing noise. At the same time, and after removing the power limit, the dongle can drive AKG K240MK2 (55ohms) cans without problems. It struggles a bit with Beyerdynamic DT990pro (250ohm) - depending on the sound source, volume can (Google music) or won't be enough (most Youtube videos).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
techcolab said:
Hi,
I appreciate you dont have meter to measure output but are you saying that this fix seems to increase the volume limit significantly ? The US version is supposed 1v against EU 0.5V.
Does this fix, 'feel' that much louder ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it sounds significantly louder. Dongle is pretty cheap, they might even let you try it in the mortar store, so just get ready your phone and try it with your headphones. In the "worst" case you can use it with a PC (Windows 10), there it works at full power with no "hacking" needed.
I am a novice. But I need a module and good explanation on how to DIY. Can u help me PLEASE?
I am on android 10 samsung tab s7 plus rooted. Alsa installation showing error too. Will be very helpful if u make a video of it.
Hi there. After two years on a PX5 it's time to get a new HU with a PX6 chipset. My PX5 was without a DSP but the sound was really good after updating the MCU to 3.x.
So I'm looking for this kind of device
https://www.ebay.de/itm/392478816533
This one again has no built in DSP but the price is good. A PX6 with DSP (Dasaita e. g.) is about 100 bucks higher than this. But is it worth the difference?
It's gonna ne installed on a Golf MK6 with Dynaudio.
Thanks
i bought a Xtrons PX5 without DSP module and then bought the DSP chip (my board support to add this chip) and there is a big difference with audio!
Another option is to buy a unit and install the Hal9K ROM on it (it's very easy to do, 5 minute job). It comes pre-packaged with Viper4Android (an android DSP app), which will give 95% of the inbuilt DSP functionality, plus a lot more. Hal9k is free but you need to pay a one-off fee of 10 Euro for ongoing updates. Works out a lot cheaper than the premium for a DSP unit.
I have a Dasaita with DSP, but I don't use any of the DSP functionality, I do everything in Viper instead, and to my ears, it sounds fantastic. But as a disclaimer, I have never compared a unit with DSP to one without, so I have no idea on any quantifiable differences there may be
Then u dont have a advanced car speakers/amplifiers setup. When u have amps and speakers (not factory stuff) u really NEED DSP because of the fact that u need crossover points, gaining, etc for every single speaker/rca output. All fun and stuff viper this and that. But ViperFX app cannot do this, cannot create individual channels all of the sudden. This is something that needs to be hardware built in.
Im waiting on my 2nd android headunit now in 2 month. Because i ordered one (with dsp), turns out it only has some fake ass 13band eq and a front rear shifter, no sub volume/gain control, no filtering. Besides missing allot of audio settings it sounded also like utter sh#t. The voltage out of the RCA are also way to low. So i turned it back.
Now waiting on the one with Dedicated hardware DSP. So i have individual channel audio control, real 32band eq, Filter Cutoff settings per channel (low pass, high pass). My guess is that this unit would work extremely well for my purpose and audio setup (1x 2channel amp front, 1x 2channel amp rear deck, 1x monoblock subwoofers).
Honestly i dont really get it how they cannot include subwoofer volume and hz filtering on a Android Headunit. Those are like basic audio settings in like every 1 din car radio.
AddixNL said:
Then u dont have a advanced car speakers/amplifiers setup. When u have amps and speakers (not factory stuff) u really NEED DSP because of the fact that u need crossover points, gaining, etc for every single speaker/rca output. All fun and stuff viper this and that. But ViperFX app cannot do this, cannot create individual channels all of the sudden. This is something that needs to be hardware built in.
Im waiting on my 2nd android headunit now in 2 month. Because i ordered one (with dsp), turns out it only has some fake ass 13band eq and a front rear shifter, no sub volume/gain control, no filtering. Besides missing allot of audio settings it sounded also like utter sh#t. The voltage out of the RCA are also way to low. So i turned it back.
Now waiting on the one with Dedicated hardware DSP. So i have individual channel audio control, real 32band eq, Filter Cutoff settings per channel (low pass, high pass). My guess is that this unit would work extremely well for my purpose and audio setup (1x 2channel amp front, 1x 2channel amp rear deck, 1x monoblock subwoofers).
Honestly i dont really get it how they cannot include subwoofer volume and hz filtering on a Android Headunit. Those are like basic audio settings in like every 1 din car radio.
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Which unit have you ordered that has all of the DSP features that you describe? And if you have such an "advanced" setup, why wouldn't you use an external DSP unit for complete control?