Related
I'm sure this is a noob question, but I can't find the answer on the forum.
I've seen a couple people reference automatically ending the data connections when they're idle. Can someone explain how this is done?
Is the desire to disconnect the data to save on battery life? Just curious. Thanks.
That's the main reason I want to do it...not sure about others...
I figured out two ways to do this for anyone else that's interested.
1) Using Advanced Config Tool (V3.3): Menu > More Settings > Connections. Check "Disconnect After" and set the timeout you want. This seems to work well for activesync connections (my mail is set to recieve every 5 min), but doesn't always work for on demand connections (Internet).
2) Comm Manager Pro. No instructions for this since I'm not using it (yet). But everything I've read looks like it does it.
Like I mentioned, I've got my email configured to sync every 5 minutes and I have a connection timeout of 30 seconds set in Advanced Config. This setup has drastically improved my battery life. Before this change, I got maybe 12 hours on a good day. With this timeout set, I could probably get 2 solid days. The only thing I haven't figured out is if the timeout is and idle timeout or an overall timeout. What I mean, is will the connection end after 30 seconds even if it's in use?
I'm interested in this as well, it would be even better if outlook or msn live would make a connection and disconnect after synchronizing.
I've been looking for the same solution. So far using advanced config settings will force disconnect no matter if it was idle or not. I'm looking for a solution to disconnect only when idle.
As of proof, set auto disconnect to 1 minute and using latest skype v3.0 start transferring a large file. After 1 minute data connection will be forcibly disconnected.
Any solutions for this?
Thank you.
Can someone help me find the timing setting in Advanced Config? I've looked through everything - using Energy 3.0 Rom (WM6.5) and don't see anything related to data disconnect other than under "Data Connections:" "GPRS disconnect:" and my settings are "Enable button and timer"
I don't see where the timer comes into play; don't really care if the connection gets cut off - I'd rather see a battery life improvement.....
I'm an absolute idiot. I just skimmed through the thread and didn't read the post above... *smacks forehead*
Its been posted in this very topic, and its only 5 replies long
xawen said:
I figured out two ways to do this for anyone else that's interested.
1) Using Advanced Config Tool (V3.3): Menu > More Settings > Connections. Check "Disconnect After" and set the timeout you want. This seems to work well for activesync connections (my mail is set to recieve every 5 min), but doesn't always work for on demand connections (Internet).
2) Comm Manager Pro. No instructions for this since I'm not using it (yet). But everything I've read looks like it does it.
Like I mentioned, I've got my email configured to sync every 5 minutes and I have a connection timeout of 30 seconds set in Advanced Config. This setup has drastically improved my battery life. Before this change, I got maybe 12 hours on a good day. With this timeout set, I could probably get 2 solid days. The only thing I haven't figured out is if the timeout is and idle timeout or an overall timeout. What I mean, is will the connection end after 30 seconds even if it's in use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In advanced config the settings you are looking are not located in the list on first screen, the are in separate menu as described above.
And now I'll quote myself so my question will not get burred:
[email protected] said:
I've been looking for the same solution. So far using advanced config settings will force disconnect no matter if it was idle or not. I'm looking for a solution to disconnect only when idle.
As of proof, set auto disconnect to 1 minute and using latest skype v3.0 start transferring a large file. After 1 minute data connection will be forcibly disconnected.
Any solutions for this?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
guys, found this
http://www.andrewsayshello.com/windows-mobile/auto-disconnecting-idle-data-connections-in-wm6/
hope this helps in some way
Thanks for the link, unfortunately it still disconnects even if data connection is in use.
WMLongLife can do this for you.
About the registry tweak that does this, I must warn you: it disables the ability to do voice and data simultaneously.
Chainfire said:
WMLongLife can do this for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just checked WMLongLife and it seems that program does not quiet work if one doesn't use opera or wifirouter...
Chainfire said:
About the registry tweak that does this, I must warn you: it disables the ability to do voice and data simultaneously.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is new for me...I thought that data connection cannot co-exist with phone call, period..
[email protected] said:
Just checked WMLongLife and it seems that program does not quiet work if one doesn't use opera or wifirouter...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it does require a certain way of using your phone (current test version has specific settings - you can change this in next version). Just saying.
This is new for me...I thought that data connection cannot co-exist with phone call, period..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it can, but it depends on several factors. Under ideal (and never actually occuring) conditions it can be done with 2G GSM (GPRS/EDGE). Normally, however, either GPRS/EDGE connection suspends ('pauses') during voice call, or with 2G CDMA voice call may not work at all while data connection active (depends on exact 2G CDMA network type).
With 3G GSM (UMTS/HSPA) it is quite possible (and normal) to do data and voice simultaneously, however for some reason the auto data disconnect registry tweak breaks it. I'm not quite sure why, but it does.
3G CDMA (EV-DO) behaves the same as 2G GSM with regards to simultaneous voice and data (data drops), however, EV-DO Rev. A behaves the same as 3G GSM (possible but broken by registry tweak)
Aside from this, it is also needed that your provider/network has the correct hardware to handle this. I'm not sure how common it is for this properly operating on EV-DO Rev. A, but for UMTS/HSPA early tower equipment was bugged and did not allow this. In Europe, most UMTS/HSPA towers have since been upgraded to allow simultaneous voice and data (and HTC handsets support this perfectly), but how this is in the USA I cannot say.
Hope that explains it (it is a bit messy explenation I know)
if this dowsn't work then i have no ideea what will )
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=484084
tell me if worked for you
!!!!!
I had it set to disconnect (via Diamond Tweak software) after 1 minute of activity. I did this to preserve battery life, BUT BUT BUT
With 3g on, and even with 3g disabled all day and edge on, the battery still died in 8, 12 hours (3g, edge) with the connection disabling. i use the phone for a good number of calls, text, and some data every day.
AFTER i reenabled it to NOT disconnect after every 1 minute, i pulled over 24 hours on a SINGLE charge.
am i the only one that's experienced this??
High Level Symptoms:
- I notice battery has drained very quickly in a short time even when I have not been using phone (i.e. idle with display off)
- Phone feels noticeably warm/hot even when I have not been using phone (e.g. like it does while charging)
- Issue only seems to happen when running in 4G LTE mode
- I have gathered detailed usage statistics and do not believe there are any miss-behaving apps or system processes responsible
- I have noticed issue start most often near my office (in midtown NYC)
Note: This is where I use the phone on battery the most, so it may just be sampling bias
- I can temporarily stop the rapid power burn by switching out of 4G LTE mode (i.e. to 3G mode, or disabling radio)
- I have not found a way to stop the issue in 4G LTE mode once it starts except by restarting phone
(things I tried without success: toggling airplane mode, switching to 3G and back to 4G, radio off/on, and moving to different location/tower; rapid burn starts back up again as soon as 4G LTE mode is re-enabled)
Power Burn Rate:
- Data captured using Battery Monitor Widget which I have set to sample/log battery available % and usage every minute (this is a great app!)
- Available % dropping at a rate of about 20% / hour while phone is idle w/ screen off (my normal is about 5% / hour)
- Usage shows a very flat baseline of about 1000 mW / 250 mA (normal baseline is more like 100 mW / 40 mA)
(by baseline I mean many samples are equal to that baseline value with the rest being spikes up to greater values; no observed values are less than the baseline)
Background Info:
- My phone is unrooted and running stock firmware w/ the Verizon OTA upgrade (installed ~2011-05-19)
- I have noticed this issue many times since first getting the phone (~2011-04-12), and this issue is still present even with the newest LTE radio FW in the OTA update
- I am new to Android (~2 months in) but I am diving in deep with all the amazing tools both built-in and via add-on apps; I have collected a range of data/observations from numerous sources that are detailed in this post
My hypothesis is that the LTE radio hardware is responsible for this power burn. Most likely due to a software/firmware bug, but I'm not sure how to confirm that.
I wonder how common this issue is. I remember reading other posts on the forum that sound like the same thing. For example: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1008761
Can anyone else confirm they have seen this issue? If this issue is wide spread, I think it may be a contributing factor to the wide spread reports of 4G LTE a lot of battery.
I do not think this is the only factor that causes 4G LTE to use more power than 3G. I have read the reports, and personaly seen, higher 4G LTE power consumption when in low signal areas. However, I belive that to be independant from the burn issue I am describing here. The worst case power consumption I've seen that I think was "low LTE signal" related was only about 500 mW / 130 mA. The burn issue I'm refering too consumes power at about twice that rate and happened when I had strong signal. I had three to four of four possible bars. Also, I grabbed more detailed information:
----------
Phone info
reached using "LTE OnOff" app, "Network" app, or by dialing *#*#4636#*#* -> Phone information
Signal strength: -67 dBm to -80 dBm, 3 to 4 asu
Location: BID = 39b SID = 16 NID = 4
LAT = 7fffffff LONG = 7fffffff
Network Type: CDMA + LTE/EvDo auto
I believe this is good signal (e.g. issue not due to a low signal condition)
==================
Usage Data Capture
I briefly connected to power to reset the statistics after noticing the issue had started and and captured about an hours worth of data. My understanding of the data is that the display was off for almost all the time, and no apps or system processes are listed as using any significant amount of CPU/sensors in comparison to the hour data collection window.
-----------
Battery Use
reached using Settings -> About Phone -> Battery Use, or Battery Monitor Widget -> Usage
When last unplugged for 57m 12s
Display 30%
* Time on 1m 11s
* Auto Brightness
Cell Standby 21%
* Time on 57m 12s
Phone idle 19%
* Time on 56m 1s
Foursquare 11%
* CPU total 8s
* CPU foreground 6s
* GPS 26s
* Data sent 13.59 KB
* Data received 379.93 KB
Android System 7%
* CPU total 41s
* CPU foreground 2s
* Data sent 12.09 KB
* Data received 20.27 KB
Android OS 6%
* CPU total 39s
* Data sent 20.11 KB
* Data received 136.25 KB
Pandora 6%
* CPU total 35s
* Data sent 1.83 KB
* Data received 27.16 KB
---------------
Battery History
reached using Battery Monitor Widget -> Statistics, or by dialing *#*#4636#*#* -> Battery history
since last unplugged
CPU usage
* Android System (Total time:39s)
* Pandora (Total time:35s)
* suspend (Total time:31s)
* Foursquare (Total time:7s)
... (Note: more apps listed but with smaller total times)
Sensor usage
* Android System 29m 47s
* AccuWeather.com 28m 36s
(Note: after this capture I uninstalled AccuWeather.com app and retested. It wasn't listed anymore, but power drain behavior was unaltered)
Partial wake usage
* K-9 Mail 7m14s
* Android System 5m 4s
* Seesmic 9s
... (Note: more apps listed but with smaller times)
Other Usage
* Running (27.6%)
* Screen on (2.1%)
-------------------
CPU Spy v0.3.0 beta
Note: timers reset at begining of measurement interval
Time in state
1024 MHz 4:21 7%
768 MHz 0:54 1%
368 MHz 0:35 0%
245 MHz 12:11 20%
Deep Sleep 41:34 69%
This is a typical distribution I see when the phone is mostly idle (CPU sleeping for most of the time).
=================
Variation testing
After the data capture I systematicly tried several methods to see what it took to stop the abnormal drain in 4G LTE mode. In the end only rebooting the phone did it.
Set preferred network type: "CDMA auto (PRL)" (i.e. 3G mode) -> normal power usage (5:00pm-5:18pm)
Set preferred network type: "CDMA + LTE/EvDo auto" (i.e. 4G mode) -> abnormally high power usage (5:18pm to 5:43pm)
Set airplane mode (i.e. radio off) -> very low power usage (5:43pm to 6:54pm)
Turned off airplane mode (i.e. 4G mode) -> abnormally high power usage
Set preferred network type: "LTE mode" (i.e. ONLY 4G mode) -> abnormally high power usage
Set preferred network type: "CDMA + LTE/EvDo auto" (i.e. 4G mode) -> abnormally high power usage
Moved to a new place:
Signal strength: -65 dBm 4 asu
Location: BID = 23c SID = 16 NID = 4
LAT = 7fffffff LONG = 7fffffff
-> abnormally high power usage
Phone info "Turn off radio" button -> very low power usage
Phone info "Turn on radio" button -> abnormally high power usage
Restart phone -> normal power usage
I experience the same problem. My guess is that the radio firmware gets into a bad state when you are in an area with bad coverage.
I have been in a state where disabling data didn't stp the battery drain, only entering airplane mode would stop it.
crpalmer said:
I experience the same problem. My guess is that the radio firmware gets into a bad state when you are in an area with bad coverage.
I have been in a state where disabling data didn't stp the battery drain, only
entering airplane mode would stop it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I originally thought the same thing about the issue starting while in poor coverage, but since I have seen it occur multiple times in a good coverage area I began to doubt that was the case. The extra power consumption I usually get while in poor coverage is less in magnitude, and varies much more, and goes away when I have good coverage again. This issue feels distinctly different to me.
When you say disabling data didn't stop the drain you experienced, do you mean turning off Settings -> Wireless & networks -> Mobile networks? I haven't tried playing with that option. I'll give it a try next time I see the issue too.
You said entering airplane mode would stop it. Did you have the same experience that when you turned airplane mode off that the drain started back up again until you restarted?
Thanks
Excellent post, I would venture a guess that your background is in one the sciences.
One thing I noticed you didn't try was connecting through wifi. I believe this will render the 4g radio on but not in use. If the issue persists, it could help narrow down the cause.
As far as attempting to fix it, you can factory reset it or go to verizon for a replacement.. but that doesn't do much for others with this problem.
I have been having the same issue, both on stock and BAMF 1.6. Thanks for looking so thoroughly at this problem. It appears not everyone is affected. Can someone confirm? If so, exchanging the could be the solution.
Sent from my ADR6400L using XDA App
To test your hypothesis, I'd recommend turning off LTE somehow. My suggestion for non-rooted phone:
Dial ##778#
Chose edit mode, password: 000000
You should be able to turn off LTE in Modem Settings->Preferred Mode
Please let us know your finding.
Nice work on the research!
The scenario you described happened to me yesterday.
I was in a building where I didn't get any reception at all. I noticed the phone started to warm up. By the time I got outside and the phone re-established a connection with the 4g network, it was extremely warm and the phone was at 7% life begging to be charged.
This has happened to me on two other occasions but I don't recall being in an area of zero to poor reception.
My bolt is also rooted running the BAMF Remix 1.6.
agdaniels said:
Excellent post, I would venture a guess that your background is in one the sciences.
One thing I noticed you didn't try was connecting through wifi. I believe this will render the 4g radio on but not in use. If the issue persists, it could help narrow down the cause.
As far as attempting to fix it, you can factory reset it or go to verizon for a replacement.. but that doesn't do much for others with this problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. Your guess is spot on; I did my Ph. D. in computer science.
I have not tried switching to WiFi. Next time I see the issue I will put that to the test. I find I haven't been using WiFi much with this phone since I have lower standby power consumption in 3G mode when I don't need the speed. When I do want more speed, I find here in NYC 4G LTE is actually significantly faster than either my home or work Internet connection (Cable and DSL respectively) (Crazy!). Also, here in NYC the 2.4 GHz band is VERY crowded so WiFi can slow down at times even on a good wired Internet connection. I wish this phone was 5 GHz WiFi capable to help avoid this particular issue.
My intuition is that this is a radio firmware issue so I have my doubts that a factory reset or even a replacement would fix anything. Factory reset would help if there were misbehaving apps or screwed up settings on my phone, but this seems unlikely. I'll probably need to root my phone so I can back it up before I try a factory reset. A replacement would only help if there was a hardware fault. Part of the purpose of this thread is to help gauge if many other people have this problem. The more that do, the less likely it is an abnormal HW fault with only my phone, and more likely a bug or other HW errata issue that hasn't been worked around correctly.
I think it is still too early in the game to make the call that it is not fixable in FW. I was aware that this LTE network/chipset is quite new and this phone was likely to have some rough spots at the start. Verizon/HTC/Qualcomm have only made one OTA release so far, and even that release has major bugs that were not present in the original stock FW (e.g. the frequent spontaneous rebooting when in 3G mode). Forums like this seem like great places for us users to publicly characterize issues we encounter. I hope it helps the engineers involved in making fixes and that we get updates not too far down the line.
cuguy said:
To test your hypothesis, I'd recommend turning off LTE somehow. My suggestion for non-rooted phone:
Dial ##778#
Chose edit mode, password: 000000
You should be able to turn off LTE in Modem Settings->Preferred Mode
Please let us know your finding.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the suggestion.
If you look at the last part of my post under the "Variation Testing" heading, I believe I did try a number of configurations with LTE off. Each case where LTE was off I saw normal or low power consumption. This is why I grew to suspect the LTE radio in the first place.
The technique I used for switching between 3G and 4G modes was actually the "Set prefered network type" drop down on the "Phone info" menu that can be reached using "LTE OnOff" app, "Network" app, or by dialing *#*#4636#*#* and selecting "Phone Information".
I have used the dial ##778# to get the ESPT menu before, but that was to modify the "Rev. A" setting from "eHRPD" to "Enable" as a work around to re-enable 3G EVDO during the few days of nation wide 4G LTE & 3G SVDO outage we had a month or so ago. BTW, it looks like I had by phone set to the non-stock "Enable" setting rather than "eHRPD" for the original data capture. I switched this back to "eHRPD" and I'll report if I have the issue again. I was last playing with this setting to see if had any effect on the random reboots after the OTA while on 3G, but it did not.
In the ESPT -> Modem Settings -> Preferred Mode drop down I only see the options for:
- Automatic
- HDR Only
- Digital Only
- CDMA Only (selected by default)
- CDMA HDR Only
There is also a a Preferred Mode(9k) drop down that has these options:
- Automatic
- HDR Only
- LTE Only
- HDR LTE only (selected by default)
I believe that these are settings for the voice radio and the data radio respectively. See the third page of the excellent Anandtech review of the HTC Thunderbolt: <Sorry, I am a new xda-developers forum member so it won't let me post external links yet.>
Do you have suggestions on how to set these? I am unfamiliar with the HDR acronym and haven't turned up anything that seems relevant in my Google searches.
I had another instance of the 4G LTE power burn issue today. I tried a few of the above suggestions.
I enabled WiFi and logged on to an access point. This did not stop the abnormally high power burn. Instead it went up slightly; I assume this was the extra power for the WiFi radio.
I also tried turning off Settings -> Wireless & networks -> Mobile networks. That resulted in the 4G LTE icon going away but the signal bars were still showing. I couldn't use the Internet but a SMS came through in this mode. This mode did not stop the power burn either.
The burn stopped only when I rebooted.
The reboot happened when I dialed ##778# to get the ESPT menu and switched the "Rev. A" setting from "Enable" to "eHRPD" and this time remembered to commit the changes (forgot to when I posted above). Committing the changes auto-rebooted the phone, which returned me to normal power consumption. I will report if I have the problem again now that I have confirmed I am back in the stock eHRPD mode.
Most of today I was in very good signal conditions, judging by the time the drain started, I could have been out on a errand in the neighborhood. So I can't 100% guarantee that the 4G signal was high the whole time.
Does anyone know of an app that works on the Thunderbolt that can log signal strength over time and preferably graph it too (e.g. similar to Battery Monitor Widget). I have tried to download and use a few without success including: Open Signal Maps, Network Signal Info, RF Signal Tracker, and Signal Finder. Some of these apps didn't work at all (I suspect 4G signal is reported a bit differently and this confuses some of them). Some work in general but I can't seem to get the logging I'm looking for.
Thanks!
OdinGuru said:
I originally thought the same thing about the issue starting while in poor coverage, but since I have seen it occur multiple times in a good coverage area I began to doubt that was the case. The extra power consumption I usually get while in poor coverage is less in magnitude, and varies much more, and goes away when I have good coverage again. This issue feels distinctly different to me.
When you say disabling data didn't stop the drain you experienced, do you mean turning off Settings -> Wireless & networks -> Mobile networks? I haven't tried playing with that option. I'll give it a try next time I see the issue too.
You said entering airplane mode would stop it. Did you have the same experience that when you turned airplane mode off that the drain started back up again until you restarted?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By disabling data, I was actually using the notification tools in most rooted roms. That should be equivalent to what you said.
Toggling airplane mode toggled the battery drain problem until it failed to enter airplane mode and I had to reboot.
I see the same thing
Where I live at home we only have 3G at work I have 4G. The phone will get itself into some kind of mode at work and burn through the battery in 4-5 hours. So I keep it charging on my desk all day. If I didn't, some days it wouldn't make it till lunch.
OdinGuru said:
Thank you. Your guess is spot on; I did my Ph. D. in computer science.
I have not tried switching to WiFi. Next time I see the issue I will put that to the test. I find I haven't been using WiFi much with this phone since I have lower standby power consumption in 3G mode when I don't need the speed. When I do want more speed, I find here in NYC 4G LTE is actually significantly faster than either my home or work Internet connection (Cable and DSL respectively) (Crazy!). Also, here in NYC the 2.4 GHz band is VERY crowded so WiFi can slow down at times even on a good wired Internet connection. I wish this phone was 5 GHz WiFi capable to help avoid this particular issue.
My intuition is that this is a radio firmware issue so I have my doubts that a factory reset or even a replacement would fix anything. Factory reset would help if there were misbehaving apps or screwed up settings on my phone, but this seems unlikely. I'll probably need to root my phone so I can back it up before I try a factory reset. A replacement would only help if there was a hardware fault. Part of the purpose of this thread is to help gauge if many other people have this problem. The more that do, the less likely it is an abnormal HW fault with only my phone, and more likely a bug or other HW errata issue that hasn't been worked around correctly.
I think it is still too early in the game to make the call that it is not fixable in FW. I was aware that this LTE network/chipset is quite new and this phone was likely to have some rough spots at the start. Verizon/HTC/Qualcomm have only made one OTA release so far, and even that release has major bugs that were not present in the original stock FW (e.g. the frequent spontaneous rebooting when in 3G mode). Forums like this seem like great places for us users to publicly characterize issues we encounter. I hope it helps the engineers involved in making fixes and that we get updates not too far down the line.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are absolutely correct on all three points, my main focus with the two suggestions were background data for the factory reset and faulty hardware for the replacement.
If you have the ability to disable all background data syncing while on 4g- on the application side, sense ui side, and the android side you could completely rule out software being the cause. My thoughts with this are some background service is keeping the radio active, causing the burn.
The replacement device would help to narrow down whether the issue lies on the device side, or if its more related to the towers/the way lte functions. The latter is bad news for you. My thoughts on this are that some people report no issues running lte, while others are having similar problems as you have reported; I doubt that it is faulty phone hardware, but its possible.
I share your conclusion that this is a firmware(baseband) issue. Actually going in and manipulating it would require root, a considerable understanding of how the interaction between hardware and software works, and the abilty to make tweaks and test them. I will also contact some people more knowledgable then myself and see if they want to chime in on the matter.
crpalmer said:
By disabling data, I was actually using the notification tools in most rooted roms. That should be equivalent to what you said.
Toggling airplane mode toggled the battery drain problem until it failed to enter airplane mode and I had to reboot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent idea. I then I was able to execute the test you suggested yesterday when I re-encountered the issue. I saw the exact same behavior you reported: even though I disable applications data over LTE, the drain did not stop. This is strong supporting evidence that it is not an issue with some kind of rouge app / sync settings.
Drain toggling with airplane mode is the exactly consistent with my observations as well. Sounds like we have confirmed you having the exact same burn issue.
Thank you for the feedback and confirmation.
mcargil05 said:
Where I live at home we only have 3G at work I have 4G. The phone will get itself into some kind of mode at work and burn through the battery in 4-5 hours. So I keep it charging on my desk all day. If I didn't, some days it wouldn't make it till lunch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is consistent with my observations of the burn issue. The baseline power consumption I observed is about 20% of the battery per hour while phone is idle with screen off. That would correspond to the phone burning through a full charge in 5 hours even if you didn't use it at all. Add any extra actual usage on top of that and 4-5 hours of life sounds very plausible. That assumes you have the problem right away though (the worst case).
I typically see a variable amount of time of normal consumption before the issue starts. For instance, let's say I've been running normally for 3 hours and am at 80% before the issue starts. Then I'd quickly burn through the last 80% in 4 hours or less. In that case I'd get less than 7 hours of total battery life (e.g. not making it through the day). If my normal usage had continued, it should be more like 15 hours (e.g. more than enough for a long day and needs charging every night).
There is still the question if this issue is related or not to 4G signal levels. What do you normally see in the office? Number of bars is useful, and also the more detailed dBm number can be found in Settings -> About Phone -> Network.
Thank you for your report.
agdaniels said:
You are absolutely correct on all three points, my main focus with the two suggestions were background data for the factory reset and faulty hardware for the replacement.
If you have the ability to disable all background data syncing while on 4g- on the application side, sense ui side, and the android side you could completely rule out software being the cause. My thoughts with this are some background service is keeping the radio active, causing the burn.
The replacement device would help to narrow down whether the issue lies on the device side, or if its more related to the towers/the way lte functions. The latter is bad news for you. My thoughts on this are that some people report no issues running lte, while others are having similar problems as you have reported; I doubt that it is faulty phone hardware, but its possible.
I share your conclusion that this is a firmware(baseband) issue. Actually going in and manipulating it would require root, a considerable understanding of how the interaction between hardware and software works, and the abilty to make tweaks and test them. I will also contact some people more knowledgable then myself and see if they want to chime in on the matter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the most recent test I disabled "Mobile Networks" which effectively shutdown data service. I also tested switching to WiFi which should have redirected all data away from the 4G LTE radio. Neither one of these stopped the power burn. Do you agree this is sufficient enough to rule out apps/services?
I noticed on the Phone info screen there are some counters for number of bytes sent over the radio. Next time I have the issue perhaps I'll keep track of how those change when I'm having the issue vs not.
I agree that trying replacement HW would be a useful data point to help identify if the issue is inherent or tower related. I'm not quite ready to jump through all the hoops with Verizon to do it myself yet. I'd want to root first to create a backup of my current setup first to reduce the pain of the procedure. And I'll probably give them the benefit of the doubt and wait for the next OTA to give them another shot at fixing the issue with FW.
Part of our questions would be answered if there was indeed a user out there that runs 4G LTE and can document that they do not have this issue. Does anyone out there run Battery Monitor Widget or similar and can say they have never seen the tell-tail pattern of power burn I am talking about?
I really wish Android had a built in screen capture feature. I need to get adb installed and setup on my computer so I can post examples of what the graphs look like; I think that would help other users to identify the issue as it happens so they know when to re-boot to save what is left of their battery.
I agree there is very little we as users can do to fix the issue if it is in the radio FW. As you say, it would indeed take very detailed knowledge of the HW. Also, I think it would be impossible without the radio FW source code. Although I haven't looked through the HTC released code, I would be very surprised if this was included. It wouldn't be covered under the Android or Linux open source licenses as it likely originally came from Qualcomm and is considered proprietary. Without that, we can only hope that Qualcomm/HTC/Verizon work together to get it figured out. The good news is that they all have a good business case to do so. This LTE chipset is likely to be used in several phones so they need these issues resolved before it affects their whole lineup.
Anyone know if the new Samsung Droid Charge has this issue too?
After experiencing all the same issues myself, I have noticed that this seems to have been addressed in the leaked Gingerbread radio. Might be worthwhile to repeat testing using that radio and then somehow compare code.
Sent from my ADR6400L using XDA Premium App
I would have to agree you've sufficiently ruled out software, the point about the gingerbread build not having issues is worth noting though. Can someone confirm the 2.3 release has new radio firmware? It wouldn't be difficult at all to pull it out and flash it if it does
My thunderbolt will be in hand Monday, I don't have the phd you have in c.s (mines just a bs) but I've been in the business long enough to throw some graphs together. We'll compare notes then if we don't find resolution sooner.
I experience the same problem in North Phoenix when running 4GLTE in a weak 4g signal area. It doesn't happen too often if I'm in a heavily blanketed 4g area.
EDIT. I'm running rooted. OC to usually 1400 mhz. I'm constantly being synced with the Exchange Server. My phone gets super hot when running navigation plus 4GLTE. Temperature gets up to around 110 degrees Fahrenheit.
When I notice my phone heating up, I'll switch to CDMA prl and immediately my battery temperature starts dropping to normal levels, ie. 86 degrees Fahrenheit.
At the time I was running on different radio combinations. Such as, CDMA. 6 and lte. 7 radio combo. I have recently switched to Gingerbread so more testing is needed.
Had a spare minute to look up the radio, looks like its bricking certain devices after flashing. Not completely ruling it out, maybe you can flash it, test it, then flash it back, but there is some risk involved.
Whatever the case, its reassuring to know updates are coming eventually.
Here is a link for reference:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1098363&page=70
Suggestions or questions are welcome!
Description:
Here is a simple-ish script I wrote to manage data flow on my phone. Mobile data on/off is easy enough but what most users have a hard time pulling off is when to toggle wifi on and off with minimal consumption. Using local tower states is pretty common but it's inaccurate and slow; additionally my method uses less battery life.
Room for improvement:
The only thing I would like to do in order to improve this is to have the script not disable data when downloading or streaming. This is possible but is unique per device per ROM so I can't really go into detail about how to do it. As a summary though there's a file that is written to that keeps information about bytes traffic. You just read this file to determine how much data is flowing in a specific interval and if it exceeds a certain amount then don't turn off data just yet. It's also a known issue where with some devices the 3G state change won't register when toggling manually while connected to wifi.
Features:
Wifi and 3G will disable two minutes after the screen is off so it's not constantly toggled through intermittent use.
On some phones or providers the 3G status becomes unknown when in a call or when connected to wifi; this script works around that.
Unlike most data management apps this one will remember your 3G status should you manually change it, in case you don't want 3G on at all.
Data is still checked on an hourly basis(this can be adjusted of course).
Fast and accurate wifi connecting with very minimal power drain.
Just a few things explained for those curious:
I check the phone state to ensure that 3G isn't detected as manually disabled when your provider uses 3G to place calls.
I check the screen on time because on some phones/ROMs the 3G doesn't actually register as toggled until the screen flickers back on. Because of this 3G appears to only become disabled once the screen turns back on and it can be registered as manually turning it off.
The wifi timer exist so the script won't check for a wifi too frequently.
You can adjust the hourly checks under Cycle 3G.
What version of Tasker is this developed under? Just curious, I'm running the 4.0 beta, and I just had to back out of b19 to b18 because of issues with my data management profile. I'll try yours out, it sounds a lot better than mine...
Can't seem to get this to work...tasker wont recognize the file
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
It's working great for me on 4.0b18. I still need to look at the logic being used as to what causes it to 'wake up' and connect to wireless, is it simply a delay after screen on, or are you also looking at other factors?
Tasker 1.3.3u2
My friend had problems getting his to recognize the profile as well. I'm not sure why.. It might have to be in the proper directory. You might also have to make a new profile tab for it. Hopefully rpr69 can give us some insight.
But to answer your question as to how I check Wifi...
When screen turns on I immediately try to connect to Wifi before trying 3g. 3g will still enable briefly after for phones that require it for MMS. If Wifi isn't connected after X seconds then it disables Wifi and won't try again for 10 minutes. If it does connect successfully there will be no 10 minute wait next screen on.
Added manual toggle memory to Wifi as well. I'll post the changes later and update the zip file.
Are you importing the profile, or just dropping it in a directory? The proper way is to import into a new project. In 1.3 of Tasker (from memory, it's been awhile), you need to pull down from the top of the Tasker top bar which should then give you the Projects tabs. Long press on the Home tab, and you should get an 'import' option, navigate to where you downloaded the project file on your phone and select it, and it should create a new tab for it, with the profile and tasks under it. If you had previously just manually copied the xml file into the projects directory, move it out of there or the import may fail.
Looking forward to the update!
Ok got it to work I forgot is was a project and kept trying to import only a profile. It seems great so far!!!
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To make it so it won't check wifi when you don't want it to add the following...
ProfileName - Record Wifi State
Trigger - State > Wifi Connected *
Enter Task - Set Variable %wifistate to 1 if screen ~ on
Exit Task - STOP If %ScreenOnTime + 2 > %UPS
......Set Variable %wifistate to 0 if screen ~ on
then under task "Data Types On - Type 2 P2"
very first line add - If Then > %wifistate = 1
Place a closing End If at the very bottom, and move the "Mobile Data > Set On (if %3GState = 1)" second from the bottom, just above closing.
I also just uploaded the xml file again to the main post.
Hi, so the simplest way of stating my problem is when my device is either unlocked (AKA browsing apps and whatnot with the screen on), or locked (sleeping), notifications are slow to arrive. Right now I've been testing with Skype, and Gmail, both of which are inconsistent. My OPO does not currently have a SIM card (haven't setup the plan yet), and I've tried with both LTE and Radio off (using *#*#4636#*#* on the phone info page)
Info about my OPO/Setup:
Flashed CyanogenMod 12.1 as stated in the Sultan thread before flashing Sultanxda Rom
Using Sultanxda Unofficial CyanogenMod 12.1 Sep 14, 2015 (http://forum.xda-developers.com/one...m-kernel-unofficial-cyanogenmod-12-1-t3120259)
Using AK v.020 CAF Kernel (http://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-one/orig-development/kernel-ak-t3189886)
Using StyloKing v1 Synapse profile for CAF (http://forum.xda-developers.com/one...ad-oneplus-t3163211/post62600798#post62600798)
Using build.prop mods (http://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-one/general/build-prop-tweaks-device-t3168207)
Using TK Gapps Pico (http://forum.xda-developers.com/android/software/tk-gapps-t3116347)
Using Oxygen OS Modem ONLY (http://forum.xda-developers.com/one...dio-updated-modem-radio-files-oxygen-t3072516)
Using Xposed for Lolipop (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3034811)
Using Greenify and Amplify with settings from both of these threads (http://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/guide-0-0-hour-idle-battery-drain-stock-t2973588 & http://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/guide-extreme-battery-life-t3095884)
My OPO does not currently have a SIM card (haven't setup the plan yet)
Things I've tried:
With both LTE and Radio off (using *#*#4636#*#* on the phone info page)
Older Skype versions
Push Notification Fixer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.andqlimax.pushfixer&hl=en)
Disabling Amplify by disabling the module in Xposed, and rebooting
Double checked that Greenify isn't touching Skype or anything related
I also have a Samsung Galaxy S3 that is using the stock ROM (Android 4.1.2) with root permission and a custom recovery. That is the device I've been using to test with. If I send a Skype or Gmail message from my OPO to the Galaxy, it takes 2-3 seconds EVERY TIME consistently.
If I send a Skype or Gmail message from the Galaxy to the OPO, sometimes I'll get the message within 3-5 seconds, other times it takes 1 minute+ and even a few messages don't arrive until I unlock the device and open Skype or Gmail.
When I leave Skype open, and lock my OPO, it seems to get the messages very quickly almost every time.
Also, it appears that when my phone sleeps for a certain period of time, seems inconsistent, the WiFi will disconnect - and I DO have keep WiFi on while phone is sleeping.
I've run out of ideas short of trying a full wipe and different rom/kernel/who knows what at this point...=\
Any/all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Edit/Update: Found this post (http://forum.cyanogenmod.org/topic/107023-cm12121-wifi-connectivity-issuesdrops-workaround-included/) on another forum, and that seems to have fixed it for me. Doing further testing, but so far positive results.
The delayed response is most probablye due to the Greenify/Amplify tweaks that you've made. Remove everything related to Gmail, Skype, Google Play Services from Greenify & Amplify and then test. Add back the tweaks one by one and find the culprit.
I've already tried that. Fully disabling Amplify, and double checking that I've touched nothing close to Skype or Gmail or Google Services in Greenify's settings.
As I put in the edit in my first post, I found out going to /system/etc/wifi/WCNSS_qcom_cfg.ini and changing the line
Code:
McastBcastFilter=3
to
Code:
McastBcastFilter=0
appears to have solved the issue for me.
But when I did that, I also noticed something else, and I wish I hadn't unplugged my device (AKA wiping battery data so I could show a clear screenshot of what I mean), because I saw when I was looking at the battery usage chart, all day long while I had McastBcastFilter=3, my WiFi signal was turning on and off CONSTANTLY throughout the day, and sometimes for decently long periods. Now that I've changed McastBcastFilter=0, my WiFi signal shows that it's on 24/7 in my battery screen.
I'm worried that this is going to cost me a fair bit more battery, but at the same time I need my notifications.
I found another setting in that file with this comment:
Code:
# Enable suspend or not
# 1: Enable standby, 2: Enable Deep sleep, 3: Enable Mcast/Bcast Filter
gEnableSuspend=3
Before I made any changes to this file, it was set to 3, which makes sense with the McastBcastFilter changes I made. But attempting to get some more battery life so my WiFi goes into some sort of partial power save mode for battery longevity, I'm going to try my OPO with Enable Deep Sleep on all day. We'll see how the battery fairs and if notifications are still delayed or not.
Edit: I was able to get the data from my secondary battery app so screenshots for all!
This is what my Wifi/Battery was like before I changed McastBcastFilter at all:
Code:
imgur.com/ZXmFYhI
This is after I changed it from 3 to 0:
Code:
imgur.com/H5ZlXc2
And this is what it's been like since I rebooted last night with gEnableSuspend=2 (AKA Deep Sleep):
Code:
imgur.com/2O6GuVE
Obviously when the WiFi is off, I'm not getting my notifications. >=\
(Gave the URLs CODE tags so I could link the images...)
Well so far I haven't seem to have come across any issues with leaving BcastMcast at 0 and using Deep Sleep for WiFi. I'm still getting all my notifications, and as far as I can tell the battery life is give or take about the same. Possibly a little more battery drain than with BcastMcast on, but I haven't done any sleep tests yet, just initial observations with using OPO in a daily setting.
Galaxy Samsung S7
Samsung Gear S3 watch
All updated, no outstanding software updates available.
I having the issue where 8 runs out of 10 S Health just stops tracking my distance.
Steps continue to count
Clock continues to count
The issue seems to happen when either I stop running - i.e. waiting to cross a road or when I pass under a bridge (bridge is probably 3 metres)... the watch seems to drop out. Only way is to stop and restart.
The interesting thing is if I stop and restart it works straight away - so that tells me I am within GPS signal.
The problem seems to be that if it drops out, it never can reconnect and start again. I have ran 7km, it has dropped out after 2km - yet for the rest of the other 5km - your telling me that I was never in GPS signal to pick up again ??
Can someone confirm that if I have my watch connected via Bluetooth, is the S Health app taking GPS from the watch itself or from the phone?
autonm said:
Galaxy Samsung S7
Samsung Gear S3 watch
All updated, no outstanding software updates available.
I having the issue where 8 runs out of 10 S Health just stops tracking my distance.
Steps continue to count
Clock continues to count
The issue seems to happen when either I stop running - i.e. waiting to cross a road or when I pass under a bridge (bridge is probably 3 metres)... the watch seems to drop out. Only way is to stop and restart.
The interesting thing is if I stop and restart it works straight away - so that tells me I am within GPS signal.
The problem seems to be that if it drops out, it never can reconnect and start again. I have ran 7km, it has dropped out after 2km - yet for the rest of the other 5km - your telling me that I was never in GPS signal to pick up again ??
Can someone confirm that if I have my watch connected via Bluetooth, is the S Health app taking GPS from the watch itself or from the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Deleted
I somehow but dialed I response to your post, smh sorry about that.
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
gguy1 said:
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Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that helpful insight !
autonm said:
Thanks for that helpful insight !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Deleted
I somehow but dialed I response to your post, smh sorry about that.
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
I have the same issue. I've tried: turning off auto pause, changing type from GPS only, GPS+wireless. I changed distance, adjusted guide, nothing has fixed it. Has been like this since Day 1 for me.
No issues for me. I'm normally tracking with S-Health on the watch and Strava on the phone as S-Health integration into Strava isn't very good.
I thought I read somewhere that when its paired it uses the phone GPS. Try it stand alone and see if it works.
just quick update - I ran 6km + on Sunday - following the same run / trail as I did previous when the S3 bombed out on me. This time I changed the following:
settings - connections - wifi - Off
settings - connections - location - on - methods GPS
It managed to track the entire 6km + without any issues or dropping out. I am running twice again this week and will let you know how it goes...
autonm said:
just quick update - I ran 6km + on Sunday - following the same run / trail as I did previous when the S3 bombed out on me. This time I changed the following:
settings - connections - wifi - Off
settings - connections - location - on - methods GPS
It managed to track the entire 6km + without any issues or dropping out. I am running twice again this week and will let you know how it goes...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try that tonight. I had WIFI on.
Wonder if that's the key.
ok so cancel that... had the same settings as Sunday and it failed again tonight after 0.9km
Restarted the tracking again ... failed after 0.2km ... retired again - failed after 0.5km
Something is seriously wrong with the S Health app for tracking..
Next i am going to try a factory restart and see if I can block all notifications from my phone - incase the alerts / pop ups are causing issue....
not good
I have similar issue.
Ok, so I tried the suggested idea of turning off wifi, leaving BT on and GPS only. No change.
I tried turning off wifi, turning off BT. Then using gps and it worked. HOWEVER, it was only 1 test. (Basically watch only)
More testing needed.
Same issue here. Like others, I've tried different combinations of settings (wifi on/off, gps only, auto-pause on/off, etc.). I haven't turned off the Bluetooth connection to the phone, because without notifications, what would be the point - I can buy a dedicated gps watch for less than $50.
However, here are a couple of things I have found that are consistent.
shutting down the gear app on the phone, and restarting it seems to immediately help "location"
doing a reset of the watch, and reconnecting to the phone/app seems to make the s-health record distance consistently and correctly for a few days. HOWEVER, after 3 or 4 days it will stop recording distance during a run. After that, no matter what I do, it is flaky. Sometimes it won't record distance at all, and other times it will record sporadically. After a reset, it will function correctly for 3 or 4 days, and then flake out again.
After reading several threads in several forums, it appears that this is common and Samsung has no response. I really want to like the Gear S3, but this is too much money to spend on a mediocre product.
Samsung Gear S3 works fine, The S-Health app also works fine. The only thing is the working concept is not clearly understood by some people and not well explained by Samsung itself.
If your Samsung Gear S3 has problem tracking your location or distance during cycling or walking activities, here how to solve that:
Condition 1: Your Gear S3 is paired to Phone vie Bluetooth.
In this situation your Gear S3 will rely the location information from your phone.
You do not have to change any setting in your gear S3 ( Bluetooth still on, Wireless on, Location mode GPS & wireless, autopause on)
Make sure your phone Location setting is set to "On" and at "highest accuracy" mode. It means enable all GPS, WiFi and wireless networks for location searching from your phone.
Make sure your phone is not in "Power Saving" mode, because it limits the location tracking ability from your phone.
In this way your gear S3 can track your location, map your distance, and generate the route correctly. Even autopause works correctly and precisely.
Any location tracking faulty in this situation is mostly your phone location tracking faulty.
(You can test your phone tracking problem by running with your phone and S-Health app installed on it separately from your Gear S3)
Condition 2: Your Gear S3 is disconnected from the phone (stand alone)
In case you are not sure your phone can track location correctly in certain condition or you want to save your phone battery, disconnect your Gear from the phone. (Bluetooth Off, Wirelss Off, Location On- GPS & wireless / GPS only, or just simply press flight mode)
In stand alone mode, your Gear S3 will rely on its own GPS.
In this way your gear S3 can track your location, map your distance, and generate the route correctly (without detailed maps). Even autopause works correctly and precisely. The cycling and walking data will be synced to your phone after it is connected again.
Before starting your activity, make sure Gear's GPS has found your location.
At the first time you are using "standalone" mode, Gear may need some time (around 1-3 minutes) for GPS to locate your position. The small location (balloon) icon is blinking when searching and turns solid when it has found your location. Once is done, next time you use standalone GPS mode, it will locate you quickly.
At the first time you are using "standalone" mode after switching from phone connected mode, it's a good practice to restart your watch especially if it takes too long to find your location at first.
I hope this helps. I have tested it consistently on my Gear S3 Frontier, and my phone is Samsung Galaxy S6.