Database Info

Battery Drain in HTC touch pro after flashing with Energy ROM

HI Friends,
Can anyone suggest what needs to be done as my HTC touch pro is unable to give atleast 1 day battery backup after flashing with Energy ROM.
Can listen to music nor brwose internet for long time.literally gives me half day batter backup.But before it used to give atleast 2 days.
Solution plZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ.
Suggest a good ROM with good battery backup along with Energy kind of GUI.

What happend to you is that the rillphone version embended in the latest Energy ROM is not working proply with the radio ROM u have installed.
The solution is to install the appropiate rillphone for your radio ROM.
Search the forum for the rillphone and radio threads

MareleSef said:
What happend to you is that the rillphone version embended in the latest Energy ROM is not working proply with the radio ROM u have installed.
The solution is to install the appropiate rillphone for your radio ROM.
Search the forum for the rillphone and radio threads
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As you have said, i have installed "BS_Rilphone_1_13_25_24.cab" for the Radio i have...after the power cycle..the phone doesnt have any display after the splash screen..I think..i bricked it....

Unless your phone is unlocked. You can't flash non ralph radios

subbuaxel said:
As you have said, i have installed "BS_Rilphone_1_13_25_24.cab" for the Radio i have...after the power cycle..the phone doesnt have any display after the splash screen..I think..i bricked it....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reading goes a long way. But maybe I'm being a bit too presumptuous.
Did you by any chance actually take the time to read this section under post #6?:
BATTERY SAVING TIPS
The first few days
• There is nothing special about this ROM to make it use more power than other ROMs except that it is tweaked for performance over battery life. After things have settled down, you should get a couple of days usage out of a charge.
• Immediately after flashing, you will probably observe very poor battery performance. This is due to the charging circuit having to reset itself.
• The battery meter will not settle down and give accurate readings for a few battery cycles. Give it a few days.
• For the first few battery charging cycles, try to charge to 100% with phone off and then allow battery to drain down quite a bit before recharging. This is so the meter will calculate drain well.
Recommendations
• Make sure you followed all of the flashing instructions to the letter. Especially the part about the hard reset.
• Backlight is set to high. You might want to change that.
• 3G is on by default. Recommendation is to turn it off when you are not surfing the internet.
• Don't drain your batery all the way down until it dies. Not good for these types of batteries.
• The GPS sucks the battery dry. If you want to keep track of yourself, consider something like GPSToday that only wakes up the GPS once in a while.
• Maybe you don't really need aGPS enabled. Disable and check GPS lock times and battery drain.
• Applications that run from the storage card consume more power so install oft-used or background-type applications to main memory.
Troubleshooting
• If your radio does not match your rilphone.dll you can get crazy bad battery drainage. Use the recommended radio or spend some time working out a good combination for your phone/carrier/location/usage.
• Check to see that some application is not still running in the background. Check, do not assume. USe the full Task Manager application.
• Check to see if the screen is still on when you expect it to be off. Soft reset can fix that issue.
• Some radios work better with some carriers and locations. Asking everyone to tell you what radio to use may not give you the best answer. Be specific about your situation.
• More stuff you should see HERE
If you have tried all the above and still can't get over a day with moderate use, you may actually have a bad battery. Try getting a new one that is made by another manufacturer.

Friends,
My phone is unlocked
Please suggest if i can change the radio to latest one like this(BlackStone_Radio_1.17.25.09).the ROM that is there 1.13.25.24 is from april 2009.

goyjuss said:
Reading goes a long way. But maybe I'm being a bit too presumptuous.
Did you by any chance actually take the time to read this section under post #6?:
BATTERY SAVING TIPS
The first few days
• There is nothing special about this ROM to make it use more power than other ROMs except that it is tweaked for performance over battery life. After things have settled down, you should get a couple of days usage out of a charge.
• Immediately after flashing, you will probably observe very poor battery performance. This is due to the charging circuit having to reset itself.
• The battery meter will not settle down and give accurate readings for a few battery cycles. Give it a few days.
• For the first few battery charging cycles, try to charge to 100% with phone off and then allow battery to drain down quite a bit before recharging. This is so the meter will calculate drain well.
Recommendations
• Make sure you followed all of the flashing instructions to the letter. Especially the part about the hard reset.
• Backlight is set to high. You might want to change that.
• 3G is on by default. Recommendation is to turn it off when you are not surfing the internet.
• Don't drain your batery all the way down until it dies. Not good for these types of batteries.
• The GPS sucks the battery dry. If you want to keep track of yourself, consider something like GPSToday that only wakes up the GPS once in a while.
• Maybe you don't really need aGPS enabled. Disable and check GPS lock times and battery drain.
• Applications that run from the storage card consume more power so install oft-used or background-type applications to main memory.
Troubleshooting
• If your radio does not match your rilphone.dll you can get crazy bad battery drainage. Use the recommended radio or spend some time working out a good combination for your phone/carrier/location/usage.
• Check to see that some application is not still running in the background. Check, do not assume. USe the full Task Manager application.
• Check to see if the screen is still on when you expect it to be off. Soft reset can fix that issue.
• Some radios work better with some carriers and locations. Asking everyone to tell you what radio to use may not give you the best answer. Be specific about your situation.
• More stuff you should see HERE
If you have tried all the above and still can't get over a day with moderate use, you may actually have a bad battery. Try getting a new one that is made by another manufacturer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done read and followed each and every one of it.
And also my battery is just 2 months old.Even i tested the ROM for 10 days..but drain is same as usual.

try a differn't rom and see if the problem goes away?

D3TH METAL said:
try a differn't rom and see if the problem goes away?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Upgraded the radio to 1.14.25.35 along with the suitable rilphone cab.Will test it and will let you know.Also suggest if i can go ahead with flashing of my pro with Energy.RAPHAEL.21916.Sense2.5.Cookie.2.0.Nov.03.

subbuaxel said:
Friends,
My phone is unlocked
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Security unlocked?

DANDANA said:
Security unlocked?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes Security unlocked!

Yes, my friend.
I have the same problem.
Flashed it 2 times with 2 different versions of Energy for the last 2 months ago, but it's still the same. I have the feeling this happened after Energy got the "multiple home screen interface".
can it be draining out the bat??

subbuaxel said:
Yes Security unlocked!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
unless you bought olipro's cid unlocker, what you basically did is "unlocking" your hardspl, which is NOT what you're talking about
you basically can't flash radios of other devices in your touch pro, unless, ofcourse, you buy olipro's cid unlocker. But that doesn't really prevents the risk of bricking your phone.

Battery saving tips fine tweaked.
Use advanced config located in the tools folder of the latest energyrom...set all power management options to enabled, in the performance section file system filter should be set to 4096, system canche size to auto, file system cache enabled. Try to install programs that are used frequently to the internal memory storage rather than storage card. don't use 3g if you are not surfing. Backlight should be set to auto. After you flash any rom make sure you cycle your battery 3-5 full charge cycles before you deem it having poor battery draining.
As for radio to be safe from battery drain use same radio and rilphone.
I personally use which yields great performance and good battery
rilphone 1.14.25.35
raido 1.17.25.09
I live in chicago USA
Oh yeah...stay with energy

siralex241 said:
Use advanced config located in the tools folder of the latest energyrom...set all power management options to enabled, in the performance section file system filter should be set to 4096, system canche size to auto, file system cache enabled. Try to install programs that are used frequently to the internal memory storage rather than storage card. don't use 3g if you are not surfing. Backlight should be set to auto. After you flash any rom make sure you cycle your battery 3-5 full charge cycles before you deem it having poor battery draining.
As for radio to be safe from battery drain use same radio and rilphone.
I personally use which yields great performance and good battery
rilphone 1.14.25.35
raido 1.17.25.09
I live in chicago USA
Oh yeah...stay with energy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have flashed My pro with Radio V.1.14.25.35 with the same rilphone.Will also try the advance config and test it for a while.

The battery problem is related to the 2.0 cookie which is still in Beta. There is a patch released which used to help a little bit, but in the last 21683 build it doesn't do much.
If you want your battery to last as before, install the ROM version without 2.0Cookie. There you will get a stable CHT v.1.8.5 and the battery will perform again as it should.

fromaron said:
The battery problem is related to the 2.0 cookie which is still in Beta. There is a patch released which used to help a little bit, but in the last 21683 build it doesn't do much.
If you want your battery to last as before, install the ROM version without 2.0Cookie. There you will get a stable CHT v.1.8.5 and the battery will perform again as it should.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Friends,
Please suggest a Best and Stable ENERGY ROM for my HTC TOUCH PRO GSM with good battery backup..i will flash it and use it.
PLZZZZZZZZ

siralex241 said:
in the performance section file system filter should be set to 4096, system canche size to auto, file system cache enabled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't waste your time fiddling with the caches. Any improvements observed are just placebos. The cache settings all have to be made in the boot.rgu of the rom prior to cooking the device. Also, cachesize (which is the tweak that advanced config tries to set) is an obsolete registry key that does nothing in WM5 and later. You can only successfully change the cache sizes post cooking and flashing with WM2003 devices.

Actually it is just the energy rom, I went from tael to energy and my battery life went to less then a day on standby. Went back to tael and the issue was gone. No it's not the radio because I always install .35 radio&ril after all new rom flashes (as well as the fact I use task29). If it was the charging circuit I'd have similar battery life with tael after I flashed it back from energy. But as it sits I can go quite sometime on standby (week?) with tael right after a flash. I can understand having less battery life but less than 24 hours on standby is certainly the rom itself. That's without 3G on since for whatever reason I can't get 3G on any phone that's not an iPhone.
Rom versions I used:
Energy.RAPHAEL.21916.Sense2.5.Cookie.2.0.GTX.Nov.03
TAEL Sept17

TAEL rom is good..along with it i would prefer any other stable rom with good gui and battery backup...

how to compare a power consumption of your devices

So, for a long time reading the forum and asking a question along the way, why I have so quickly battery discharging on my phone, I came across an interesting thought: "and from what I actually compare?. someone wrote about 5% per night, someone love to confess on the tab "Journal of the battery and it shows that he is the difference between" running "and"phone on "0.5%. but what is a night (for me it's 8 hours for someone 5). which network who have (GSM or 3G)? Also, we are constantly being developed and modified ROMs and kernels, which also constantly featured the words "lowered energy consumption."
And how do you actually compared the energy consumption of the old firmware to new. usually it sounds like "on the old firmware, I charge the phone every day, and now I charge every 2 days." but we don’t know details of how actively you used options of your phone on the old version, and how use now "(for me, For example the first 3 weeks after buying the phone had lived only one days, but now 2-3 days. but not because the new firmware, but because I'm tired of constantly digging through the phone settings and install the different soft, thus discharging it).
So, our challenge is to develop an algorithm (and in the future opportunities programs), as can be correctly and objectively compare the power consumption of our devices. That at least from the transition to the firmware to the firmware, from one kernels to another to be sure that the phone will not live less than before. Search for programs of this kind I have not been successful, can someone tell me if he knows?
actually look to you for ideas, how best to develop an algorithm testing the phone, and simultaneously bring your own.
then everything will be set out with respect to the software part, because hardware is not subject to us
1. So, first of all we need to start with any initial data. Having read all the threads about power consumption, I have come to the conclusion that the original data should include the following:
- Do wipe battery stat. We fully discharge the phone till shutdown and charge it in off state. after the device is fully charged, unplug it from the charging device and do wipe batter stat from the recovery menu
- To make the calibration of the battery you need to discharge and completely charge in turned off state the device at least 3 times
Here is one of the toughest parts, considering the long battery charging our phones. charging off-state means 4 hours of losing connection. and we need to do it 4 times. One discharge-charge cycle for a complete calibration system, as I understood , is not enough.
all the widgets and programs that can perform any action to in background must be disabled.
well, and then discharges our apparatus up to 95% in quiet mode, to give the battery a little bit cool, and eliminate trouble with 99-98-97% and you can begin testing.
2. Measurement tool. I would have chosen for this purpose, program or Battery Monitor Widget (she effects on discharging battery, but it writes logs, which can be tracked over time the battery status in percentage and millivolts) or JuicePlotter (don’t have logs. We have to extract data from the graphs that it constructs). JuicePlotter showed the best result in power consumption while the CPU time drain more than BatteryMonitorWidget - here's the first interesting fact. Now I’m testing these programs repeatedly to confirm this effect
3. In order to reduce measurement error the device must be discharged at least 20% of one test. or better at 30%. then + / -1% in the testing will not be particularly significant. That why testing process will be long and tedious.
4. In order to understand the power consumption of device in general, you should at least try to understand and share the power consumption of its individual components:
5. power consumption of the screen. For this purpose you can use the widget to extend controls, where you can turn the screen on constantly. And choose any standard wallpaper with middle brightness. we need to measure how much battery discharging for 3 hours the screen on. for small, medium and very high brightness, respectively. you can check consumption on the automatic brightness too. is believed that the turning on an automatic brightness strongly discharge the device..
6. power consumption of the file system. In the good we ought to write a program that creates a file in a loop on the internal flash drive, and anything he writes and deletes the file. Repeat the loop few thousand times to the total time was about 2-3 hours. but until there is no such a program, you can simply copy the file size of 2-3 gigabytes of internal memory with a program such as ES Explorer. In this case, the screen must be enabled to minimum brightness (since we already know how much the phone is discharged from simply turn on the screen) to control the copy process and accordingly the percentage of discharge.
7. Estimation of consumption of the processor. To do this, too, we can write a program that would do any arithmetic operations within an hour of time. But here we get the maximum load, therefore the maximum power of the processor. and it is unlikely it will be different from the firmware to the firmware . But our processor is also able to reduce the frequency and consequently reduce power consumption. And here I think there is much to improve the software. Therefore, must be differences from firmware to firmware. And the best test for this, I think, show any video on device, it loads processor to 30% on average (better view a videoconcert, so there isn’t quite boring) for one hour and thus measure how much discharge our batteries from this view .
8. Estimation of Wi-fi. Then the test can serve up any file copy from PC (connected through wires to an access point, so this segment was not the brakes) to our unit. Since the maximum speed that I managed to squeeze out of the standard N on my Captivate is 0,8 MB / sec I think copying the file size of 2GB will be enough to discharge our device is not less than 20% battery. copy can be perform using the same ES Explorer
9. Rated power consumption in standby mode. here it must enable the network only GSM. turn off the wi-fi and bluetooth. the screen went off and did not touch the machine for 8 hours. Better course would be 24 hours, but I think hardly anyone will be able to perform such a test
Actually look to you for your suggestions and additions, as can be realized by comparing energy consumption of our devices.
from the general collective thoughts we can open thread with algorithm, where you can write your test results according to the algorithm ... and make any conclusions.

HOW to check your battery life ( HTC HELP CENTRE )

Today i contacted HTC Center to ask them about the battery drain issue and overheating happes after updating to ICS they didn't give me a quit good answer for all they questions but,, they give a way to check battery life ..
NOTE: if ur device dzn't pass this send it back to repair
1ST A range of 10-20 hours of battery life is normal based on individual usage patterns, you may try dialing *#*#4636#*#* to check the battery information including health and status.
To optimize the performance of the battery follow the below:
1. turn off Wireless connections (Wi-Fi, Mobile Network, Bluetooth) when not in use
2. Stop services and apps running in the background by going to menu> settings> applications> Running services> tap the service you want to close> tap stop/Close.
3. Adjust the display settings to where it uses less battery and meets your needs
Here are also some tips for you to conserve battery life if you are experiencing this issue.
? Try rebooting your phone every few hours. Rebooting your phone clears the phone internal memory and shuts down programs that may be running in the background and using battery.
? Try turning off the data connection when not in use. Data connections in the background and syncing can cause the phone to use more battery even when sleeping.
? You can set your display to brightness to auto. Allowing the phone to adjust the brightness allows for optimal viewing while conserving as much battery as possible.
IMPORTANT
You may also try the battery test, by following the instructions below:
1. Restart your device
2. Turn on Airplane Mode
3. Connect your device to the charger, and charge it fully
4. Set Screen Brightness to Max.
5. Set Screen Time out to never.
6. Dial *#*#3424#*#*, choose battery run down test, and follow the instructions.
NOTE: If the device loses more than 40% of battery in an hour, then send your device to the repair center for repair.
pplzzzz post somthing to keep the thread alive.
IF you like it HIT
THANKS​IT Manager Musa91

Sorry to burst your bubble but these step will actually reduce the battery , if your phone drains a lot and heats up you have a faulty device that's it.
If you reboot often phone consumes a lot more by loading everything AGAIN it wont save your battery at all.
Autobrightness doesn't always work , its better if you manually set it to 35%- 40%.
Turning off wireless and data will conserve battery that's like smartphone 101 , who doesn't know that?
Android and particularly ICS automatically terminates unnecessary background processes, there is no point in killing them. In fact if you do that often it will consume more battery to start them again if they are needed. Just remember to swipe away apps after you're done, ICS will take care of the rest.
As for the battery tip , after you initiate the test phone will ask you to turn airplane mode on, it will also keep the max brightness level and wont turn off the screen so there is no need to perform the steps you've posted.
posting to keep it alive lol

i didn't either convinced with there answers as i told they wasn't direct ....
this is just a test nothing else...
and about overheating and reboots it's only happen to allot of people after ICS update
i do normally after flashing any rom set the brightness to 35% ..
lol
i did the 1 hour test and my battery level get down to 74%
the battery heat was between 32.3 to 43.7 C

Pikabat said:
Sorry to burst your bubble but these step will actually reduce the battery , if your phone drains a lot and heats up you have a faulty device that's it.
If you reboot often phone consumes a lot more by loading everything AGAIN it wont save your battery at all.
Autobrightness doesn't always work , its better if you manually set it to 35%- 40%.
Turning off wireless and data will conserve battery that's like smartphone 101 , who doesn't know that?
Android and particularly ICS automatically terminates unnecessary background processes, there is no point in killing them. In fact if you do that often it will consume more battery to start them again if they are needed. Just remember to swipe away apps after you're done, ICS will take care of the rest.
As for the battery tip , after you initiate the test phone will ask you to turn airplane mode on, it will also keep the max brightness level and wont turn off the screen so there is no need to perform the steps you've posted.
posting to keep it alive lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
u keeped it a way way over life

Pikabat said:
Android and particularly ICS automatically terminates unnecessary background processes, there is no point in killing them. In fact if you do that often it will consume more battery to start them again if they are needed. Just remember to swipe away apps after you're done, ICS will take care of the rest.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I agree with you on most of the other points, this one needs a bit of explanation. Although, the memory management in ICS is far better and is a bit like what Windows Vista and 7 do, at times you do need to kill some messy programs which play with system privileges and hog battery, like the famous facebook application.
GB and ICS use in-memory program caching like Vista and Windows 7, i.e. they keep frequently running programs in RAM and use as much memory as possible (or in sane limits in case of 7) for this task. It is freed automatically if a program requires more RAM. Thats why even when a large part of memory appears to be consumed most of the times on ICS/GB and Vista/7, large program still run perfectly well. The OS is just consuming the RAM that is lying around when no program is using it. GB and ICS even introduced a "Cached Applications" view in their "Running Apps" screen to take a look at these cached apps.
This makes the killing of background processes optimized for the OS as processes which are not used for long time can be marked inactive first and then cached. These cached processes can then be removed in cases memory is required by some program.
But there are some nasty apps like the Facebook app which not only keeps processes in background, but also keeps them active and mark the services spawned from the main executable as system services hence they are not killed at all. Facebook's background upload system, the so called "push notifications" service, all these take CPU and other resources all the time and dramatically reduce the battery life. Hence killing these manually is still required.
This is my personal experience or perception or whatever.

krazy_about_technology said:
While I agree with you on most of the other points, this one needs a bit of explanation. Although, the memory management in ICS is far better and is a bit like what Windows Vista and 7 do, at times you do need to kill some messy programs which play with system privileges and hog battery, like the famous facebook application.
But there are some nasty apps like the Facebook app which not only keeps processes in background, but also keeps them active and mark the services spawned from the main executable as system services hence they are not killed at all. Facebook's background upload system, the so called "push notifications" service, all these take CPU and other resources all the time and dramatically reduce the battery life. Hence killing these manually is still required.
This is my personal experience or perception or whatever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you're saying is true but its still not accurate. As you mentioned facebook is marking its processes as system service which means it gonna try to start again automatically. As I said before there is no point in killing, also facebook made some improvements in this area. I remember that old version was using about 40mb of ram when it was idling but now it uses about 8-9mb. As for the push notifications I've disabled them so I cant comment on that but I do know that its not always working.

Pikabat said:
Sorry to burst your bubble but these step will actually reduce the battery , if your phone drains a lot and heats up you have a faulty device that's it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may as well talk to a wall.
This guy makes stuff up and posts it as fact, then begs for thanks for his posts. He claims he's an expert but doesn't know the most basic things about how Android phones work.
I mean for crying out loud....ICS is well known to add about 20% to battery life. It's one of the best features of the new version. There were countless threads about the improvement people saw when first switching to ICS a few months ago when it first started to come out. Yet this thread basically suggests that it's a known fact that ICS causes increased battery drain.
Taking his advice is somewhere between counterproductive to your goals and downright dangerous to your device depending on what he's suggesting.

Guys, please stay on topic. There is no need to call this guide "dangerous".
His points might not bring any advantage but they are not dangerous either.
Neutral discussions are okay, but please don't start attacking each other.
We are in a forum were we want to help each other and not having contests on the best guides or whatever.
I won't comment every single point made here, but both sides have their rights and wrongs.
So please keep this technical.
Personal attacks are not tolerated on XDA.

Diamondback said:
Guys, please stay on topic. There is no need to call this guide "dangerous".
His points might not bring any advantage but they are not dangerous either.
Neutral discussions are okay, but please don't start attacking each other.
We are in a forum were we want to help each other and not having contests on the best guides or whatever.
I won't comment every single point made here, but both sides have their rights and wrongs.
So please keep this technical.
Personal attacks are not tolerated on XDA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you suggest mixing and matching elements of different versions of hacked firmware, that most certainly is dangerous. (For the phone anyway)
So much can go wrong doing a thing like that.
And when someone is recomending doing that as a sollution to every new problem someone suggests without regard to ROM, current firmware, the specific problem, android version, etc etc.....that is irresponcible.
Thats what this guy is doing in several other threads. This thread isnt one of the damgerous ones. Its one of the counterproductive ones I mentioned.
Someone will screw up thier phone with this advice. Pointing this out is not insulting to 1 person. Its being helpful to hundreds.
If we just sit silently and not say anything about bad advice, we wouldnt be very good forum members.
Sent from a rebel ship by storing the message in an R2 unit. (Help me, XDA. You're my only hope)

Skipjacks said:
When you suggest mixing and matching elements of different versions of hacked firmware, that most certainly is dangerous. (For the phone anyway)
So much can go wrong doing a thing like that.
And when someone is recomending doing that as a sollution to every new problem someone suggests without regard to ROM, current firmware, the specific problem, android version, etc etc.....that is irresponcible.
Thats what this guy is doing in several other threads. This thread isnt one of the damgerous ones. Its one of the counterproductive ones I mentioned.
Someone will screw up thier phone with this advice. Pointing this out is not insulting to 1 person. Its being helpful to hundreds.
If we just sit silently and not say anything about bad advice, we wouldnt be very good forum members.
Sent from a rebel ship by storing the message in an R2 unit. (Help me, XDA. You're my only hope)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you are a 1 of two ::: either u r racism or u can't read coz this is not me invented this way of test IT's HTC HELP CENTER AS I WROTE IN THE TITLE READ well
"Today i contacted HTC Center to ask them about the battery drain issue and overheating happes after updating to ICS they didn't give me a quit good answer for all they questions but,, they give a way to check battery life .. "
and the other thread you talk about is proofed with video and photo's and cleared how to use it with the right firmware with specific ROM so stop this chasing out and don't make ur self looks like a hero we all here support each other to provide a good solution for other's so keep it that way end of discussion.

Ok final warning regarding attitude to all.
If I see any more of this there will be consequences to all.
Consider this a final warning...

Skipjacks said:
When you suggest mixing and matching elements of different versions of hacked firmware, that most certainly is dangerous. (For the phone anyway)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not true. No documented cases of it harming the Sensation. 3.12 and 3.32 are very similar. Also, with the development mode flash fix coming out any day now, even if someone bugs up their hboot or something, it'll be recoverable similar to how Samsung phones to use ODIN to completely flash back.

.......

sshede said:
it'll be recoverable similar to how Samsung phones to use ODIN to completely flash back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i completely agree with you since i experanced that myself many times when i 1st buy the sensation so many wrong flashes then it's recoverd and back to work just fine

[GUIDE] Basics For A Better Battery

{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
*If you find this Guide Thread helpful, feel free to hit the "thanks" button below!​
Getting a full day out of your battery isn't something that should be fantasized over, but rather is absolutely attainable with most phone configurations. With following this [GUIDE] you should have no trouble getting more from your Atrix 2's battery life. I will outline several "usual suspects" and "battery butchering bandits" that some may already know of, and some that you might not have ever considered. However, if you try all of these it, may ruin your Android experience because you’ll be constantly fussing with your battery; that's not what this is for. These are ALL the tips/tricks I know. Even I don’t use all of them. Using just a few of these (possibly even one or two) should be enough that you notice an increase in your battery life. So, n00bs and more knowledgeable users can both benefit from this, and for the more resident members here, we've all seen the threads like, “Please help with my battery issue”, “Does undervolting save you battery life” or “Getting horrible battery life”, so this should help give everyone some great ways to improve upon your battery's performance and lifespan between charges.
First off, let me start by telling you all to be realistic. What I mean by that is this: You Atrix 2 is meant to be used! Your Atrix 2 is more than just a phone, it is a pocket-sized computer, an arcade full of your most favorite games, it is meant to be talked on, played with, downloaded to, uploaded from, tweaked/modded/themed/rom'd and everything else that you may desire! So, again, after reading and implementing some of (or all, if you're neurotic) the things I'll outline, hopefully this will alleviate some of the questions you may have as to why your battery performance isn't everything you anticipated it to be. Though, if you think you will get days out of your battery's life by following these suggestions, you're either not using your phone for anything other than holding down a stack of papers, or you're just not being realistic. Will these suggestions help give you more from your battery? Absolutely. I know this is all (well, mostly) very elementary in effort, but overall this WILL HELP you.​
*"There are many things to consider when thinking of your battery's performance, such as: Animation Speed. Polling For Notifications. GPS, WiFi scans, Overclocking. CPU/Ram Usage, Proper Sleep, Widgets, Brightness, 2G/3G/4G Data Usage, Call Time, Text Volume, just to name a few ~THESE are the things that really affect your battery life. The bottom line is, if you truly want to save battery you are going to have to get your hands dirty... there simply isn't a "one-click" (or one-flash) solution."​
*STANDARD DISCLAIMER: I cannot be held responsible for any and all damage related to Hardware loss or Data or Software, which the user might cause while attempting these procedures. Additionally, I am taking the liberty to assume that anyone who attempts these procedures understands the potential risks involved. Though, there should be no such issues to arise from following this guide, I am still exempting myself from any liability.
---For All Users (Rooting Not Required)---
​
1) Turn Off Your Radio(s) When Not Using Them:
Radios are what connect your phone to the rest of the world. You have your general mobile connection, WiFi, data/internet connection (3G), GPS, and/or 4G. Those are listed in order from least to greatest in battery consumption. If you’re not using the radio turn it off. If you know you won’t be online for a long time, why turn 3G data on? If you’re at home, use WiFi instead of 3G. If you’re not using Google Maps why is your GPS on? You’d be amazed at how much battery life you can save just by turning off the radios that you aren’t using.
2) Vibrate Uses More Battery:
Anytime your phone vibrates a lot of battery is used. This include haptic feedback. A lot of keyboards have the option to turn off haptic feedback and I would recommend it. If you’re a heavy texter you’ll notice very quickly how much longer your phone will last. Also, if you’re in a place where you can easily hear your phone why do you need to have vibrate enabled? If you know you’ll be able to hear your phone there’s no reason for it to be buzzing too.
3) Don’t Use Task Killers:
Crazy, right? Android has it’s own task killer that’s actually very good. If programs are using too much memory your Android OS will kill it. A common misconception is that apps run in the background forever; this is not true. If an app is using too much memory (which links to battery life) it’ll be killed by your phone. That’s why if you play a game, check a message, and come back the game is still running. It’s memory usage isn’t that high. However if you put your phone down, walk away for an hour, and the game is still trying to run in the background, there’s a good chance it will be closed before you come back. Separate task managers have to constantly be running in the background which can actually use more battery than it saves. Yes, task managers can use more battery than claim to save.
4. Power Cycling:
Not sure about the real effectiveness of this charging policy, but some users have tried it and have claimed to have had good results from it. So, to begin with the phone in the on position, fully charge the battery with the phone on. Once your Atrix 2 is fully charged, unplug the charger until the led goes off. After the led goes off, plug the charger back in. When the led turns green , power off the phone. Now, with the phone fully powered off, 1) Unplug the charger. 2) Wait until led goes off. 3) Plug charger back in until the led turns green. When it turns green, unplug the charger again and go to step 1). Repeat steps 1) and 3), 10 times. This may take anywhere from 30 seconds to 30 minutes per cycle. Typically only about 1 minute though. It takes too much work for me, but I’ve done it once just to test it.
5) Don’t Use Live Wallpapers:
They look awesome, right? They also use a lot of battery (especially the more complex ones). We’ve all used live wallpapers to show off how cool our phones can be, but for daily use they can KILL your battery. Also, your animations will be a factor in diminished battery life expectancy. To adjust this, simply navigate to: Settings>Display>Animations>set to "Off or Medium". #1 when it comes to what is eating your battery, is your display. It always has been and always will be, so accept it and try to do something about it. If you don't believe me, go to your Settings>Battery> and see just how much percentages the screen takes up. But, you want to do something about this, right? This part is easy. Just lower the brightness. You can set it to a brightness that is low but you are still able to see well enough to function. Live Wallpapers fall into this category. They are cool to look at but static ones take up less RAM and also less display because they are not running all the time in the background. These screens are very bright at 100%, so tone it down.
6) Watch Your Applications:
You have to pay attention to your applications. I repeat. You have to pay attention to your apps! Especially if they run in the background. This can be anything from a harmless .99¢ game to a monster like a Live Wallpaper. The battery drain threat is twofold here because the application is running in the background but it could also be using its anonymous data collection abilities and sending that back to the Mother ship. Ever wonder why your signal bars in the status bar have arrows or other animations going back and forth when your phone is just sitting there? This is because some application is transmitting data, whether you are using it or not. There are apps in the market that monitor these situations like Watchdog Task Manager Lite or you can adjust app permissions like LBE Privacy Guard. Data transfer is #2 on the "What Kills My Battery" list.
7) Worthless Widgets:
They look cool. But widgets are nothing more than RAM and battery hungry monsters that you purposely put in your home screen. Think about it. What does a widget really do? All it really does is monitor an app that you have running. So not only is it running and taking up battery and RAM but the app that it is linked to is running in the background a la Facebook, Twitter, Google+, CNBC, MSNBC, BBC, …the list goes on and on because they want us to put THEM on our home page. What a great marketing campaign the widget is: "Hey, look at me new home screen!" "Cool. Hey what widget is that?" "Oh, it is (whatever widget)." "Nice, I’ll have to download that tonight when I get home." Right then and there, they have you and your battery. If you're serious about getting the very most out of your battery, get rid of the widgets. I know, they're hard to resist, but trust me, your Atrix 2 will be a better place if you want the most out of your battery.
8) Set Your Screen Timeout:
Some phones start with their screen timeout at 3 minutes or more. That’s completely unnecessary. While you don’t want it to be instant, you know your preferences. Set it to as low as you see fit. The sooner your screen goes off, the longer your battery life will last. I set my screen timeout to the lowest "never" -but, in doing so, every time I am done checking emails or sending a text, I kill the display with the power button to turn off the display. This takes some habitual conditioning, and if you're used to allowing your phone the responsibility of turning off the display for you, it might bode well for your battery capacity crusade to simply adjust this to the minimum. But, if if you're like me and like 'control' over your display, I recommend you still set the timeout to the lowest possible setting, in the event that you forget to manually shut the display off yourself. It's just good practice when going for battery life longevity.
9) The Charger, and What You Can Do Regarding it:
Using certain chargers causes a wakelock on your phone that prevents it from going into deep sleep. This can result in roughly 10% battery attrition, regardless of activity or screen on time. Before you try anything else, you should test each of your chargers and make sure they aren’t causing a wakelock. Though this shouldn't be of concern if you are using the stock wall charger that came when you purchased your Atrix 2, there are other aftermarket ones that you may not suspect as reasons to worry about charging your phone with. If you are not using the stock charger, and you suspect you may have a problem, or may be curious to find out: Install CPU Spy from the Play Store. Open the app to see how much time your phone spends in each CPU state. If Deep Sleep is a very small percentage, or Deep Sleep doesn’t even appear, you have a problem with your charger. Or, follow the method below to test each of your chargers:
Testing CPU Spy:
1) Plug your phone into the charger and turn the screen off. Leave it charging for about 30 seconds. (Don't do this with a fully charged phone, as I don't know how that affects the testing)
2) With the screen still off, unplug the phone from the charger.
3) Open CPU Spy, hit the menu button, and "Reset Timers". Turn the screen off.
4) Let the phone sit idle for a few minutes with the screen off.
5) Turn the phone back on and refresh the timers in CPU Spy (menu button again).
If Deep Sleep doesn’t appear in the list of CPU states, your phone is experiencing a wakelock brought on by the charger. It’s probably spent the majority of time at 192mhz or 384mhz. To further confirm this, leave your phone unplugged, restart it, leave the screen off for a few minutes, and then check CPU spy again. You should now see it going into Deep Sleep.​​
10) Your Camera Flash and Battery Don’t Get Along:
If you like using your camera LED for a flashlight realize that will absolutely MURDER your battery. In all seriousness, your flash uses battery more than any other process on your phone. Turn off the flash. Don't set it to "automatic", you should know when you will need it and when you will not. By setting it to "automatic" you're relying on the phone's light meter to determine if the flash is needed. Sometimes it is, and other times it isn't.
11) Low Cell Signal Hurts Battery
Your phone is always searching for a stronger signal…This process gets more hectic as the cell signal goes down. So if you’re at one bar your phone’s battery life will drop faster than if you’ve got full coverage. There’s not much you can do here, but if you’re in a place where your phone has little to no signal anyway, you probably won’t be making calls so you might want to just turn on airplane mode or your phone off. And with Airplane Mode, you can toggle the airplane mode on/off 3 times in a row, that will reduce your Cell Standby battery usage. It should only be necessary to do it once after flashing but if you think Cell Standby uses too much power at some stage, you could toggle again the airplane mode 3 times. This is a handy little trick, not well known, but should give you some relief with Cell Standby usage. I travel for my job, which means that at times, I do not get good reception, or bounce around between Edge/3G/4G, and each time that happens, your Atrix 2 is sucking more juice by trying to find a good signal. If you are not in a static network, meaning one that is either 3G/4G at any given time, without locating off-network tower connections, turn your radio off or switch to Airplane Mode.
12) Speaking Of Syncing…:
Check your settings to see what is syncing and when. You probably have things syncing you don’t even use (stocks, news, contacts, etc). You can turn those off and edit the other ones. I don’t need my contacts’ statuses every hour, so my facebook sync is scheduled for once a day rather than the old once an hour. Find out what you need and how often you want it, and turn the rest off. I know you are very important and you need to know what LeBron James is doing right now, or that you need to upload a picture of you and your girlfriend every time you two are at a party, drinking beer. That is fine and I applaud you for it, and will probably download the picture and Photoshop myself in your place. This is not the problem. Syncing your accounts is. That is what is causing battery drain. Do you really need to have your FB widget (see widgets section) streaming all day long? I doubt it. Kill it (not LeBron, but rather the auto-syncing). Every time you “friend” someone their numbers, contact info gets sync’d to your phone. Also, there are settings in Facebook, Twitter and Google+ that you can upload pictures instantly. Don’t do that. Once you do, it is out in the Ether-World and just swallowed a bunch of battery doing it too. Settings>Accounts and Sync>Auto-sync>uncheck it
13) Don’t Use GPS Unless You Have To:
Some apps give you the option to precisely determine your position using GPS, or make a general estimate (usually within 100 meters) based on WiFi or 3G data. While this isn’t always the best (like if you’re driving or getting navigated), try to use the 3G connection when it doesn’t really matter. The data radio uses far less battery than GPS.
14) We're Gonna Need A Bigger Boat, erm... I Mean Battery:
If still not completely convinced that you have have stellar performance from your stock Atrix 2 battery, you can always check out the Atrix 2 Accessories threads for suggestions and/or discussions on extended capacity batteries. I've never used one myself, but don't see as to why this wouldn't certainly add to your life expectancy of your battery -assuming you're choosing foregoing the suggestions above, and simply insist on having your widgets and eating them to -or your battery, for that matter. Nonetheless, there are several manufacturers that supply an aftermarket extended capacity battery for the Atrix 2, just use your pal Google to help you find one.
​
---For All Users (*Rooting Required)---
​
*FOR ROOT USERS: If you’ve rooted your phone you have a few more options. You don’t gain too many more options, but they are even more effective than the ones listed above.
Underclock Your Phone:
Just like SetCPU can overclock your phone, it can underclock it as well. Set it to underclock when the phone is sleeping or even lower the max clocking speed. This will give your CPU's scaling frequencies a lower "resting" point, and will not allow the load of the CPU to be any higher than the maximum setting you permit. I know everyone who likes to get their hands into the belly of their Atrix 2 and start tweaking it loves the idea of overclocking, but c'mon, you don't have to run your CPU at 1.3GHz all day, everyday. Scale that baby down when you don't require such a high CPU load, and trust me, your CPU and your battery will thank you. Also, along with underclocking your CPU, you can undervolt as well. This will allow (after some testing you'll need to do first to make sure you're not undervolted too low for stable CPU loads) for your Atrix 2 to run at a lower voltage consumption, and with these types of settings, you can allow your Atrix 2 to run at your desired CPU frequency scaling, but a slightly lower voltage rate. *Note: As aforementioned, some testing is required for this to be effective with both your CPU's table values, as well as how it may improve your battery's life. Also, please reference This Thread for the latest kernel/module overclocking and undervolting methods.
Wakelocks That Destroy Your Battery Life:
If you're not familiar with wakelocks, they're basically processes that run on your phone that prevent it from going into deep sleep. Deep sleep is the mode your phone should go into when you're not using it so that it can conserve battery. Some wakelocks are intentional, while others can be the result of rogue apps or system processes. If you're trying to maximize your battery life, you know this already. Some wakelocks are happy, friendly things, but many are silent leeches, sucking away your battery life while you remain blissfully unaware of what's happening. First off, you have to understand the difference between kernel wakelocks (KWL) and partial wakelocks (PWL). KWLs are wakelocks caused at the kernel or hardware level. Some of these are benign, and some of them are vampires. The only way to solve them is to change how your phone behaves. To effectively find your wakelocks, you'll need Better battery Stats It's free to us XDA users. You can get it IN THIS THREAD. More on wakelocks can be found in the post below.
Use SetCPU:
Create a special profile that forces the device to run at low clock speeds when the display is off.
Go to profiles
Check Enable
Press Add Profile
Set the following:
Condition: Screen Off
Max: 600MHz Max
Min: 300MHz Min
Governor: ondemand
Priority: 50
Press Save
On the Main tab make sure you have
Max: 1000MHz
Min: 300MHz
Governor: ondemand
Scheduler: deadline
Clean Out the Bloat:
Some of the bloatware and unnecessary applications on our Atrix 2's can drain battery. I really recommend you freeze the applications by using Root Freezer and run your Atrix 2 for a few days after you have frozen an unwanted application, and certainly before you decide to uninstall. This way you won’t accidentally uninstall something your phone needs to remain stable. Albeit, most of the custom roms that you will see here are already "de-bloated", if you're new to rooting and Android, and haven't quite decided that taking the next jump to flashing roms is for you, use Root Freezer to "freeze" applications that you suspect are bloat, until you decide to run a de-bloated ROM -and you will, eventually...
The Stock ROM Sucks:
If you’re still unrooted and on stock Gingerbread, I feel sorry for you. What the heck are you doing on this forum if you’re scared to flash a new ROM? This guide would be way too long if I tried to explain the battery improvements you might see by stepping up to the Stock ICS leak. You’ll probably see even more improvement if you flash one of the many custom ROMs in the Development section. If you’re dedicated to getting the most out of your phone, spend a weekend reading the ever-loving crap out of the stickies in the Development forum, and the [ROM] threads. Only after you have read those threads and feel like you have a good understanding, backup your phone and flash a new ROM on it. As long as you’ve backed up properly, you can flash between several ROMs and choose the one that works best for you. If you have any questions about the ROM you’re trying to flash, ask in that ROM's specific thread, don’t start out by creating a new thread in the General Section. You did do a search first, right?
Lost DIR Liability:
Let's say that you have your phone plugged into your PC and for some reason you, in a fit of rage, jerk the plug out without unmounting it first. This creates a file that is put into your LOST DIR folder on your SD card. Anytime you don't safely unmount the SD card, it will create a file in that folder. In the scheme of the SD card, it isn't too much, but I don't like having useless items free floating about. Clear them out using Root Explorer or a like Root File Explorer, and this will free up some (depending on how many times this has been done) valuable memory real estate.
Tombstones:
So you are downloading an update from the market and for some reason your phone freezes and the Force Close-Retry-Wait doesn't work out for you. You have to do a battery pull. Frustrating I know and the memory takes a hit too. Every time you have to do a battery pull because of a freeze up or something of the like, it creates a TOMBSTONE file in /data. These are useless and can be deleted. If you are flashing ROMs and are constantly having to do battery pulls b/c market crashes or an app freezes, then you are creating a Tombstone file. Here is where your file manager (with root) will help. Go into /data and scroll all the way to the bottom and open /tombstone. There should be some files in there and depending on how many there are, I could be a nice chunk of wasted memory. Just select all and delete. They are not needed. Your internal memory should go up by doing this.
Lost & Found:
Same scenario, but now go into /data/ cache or /cache and you'll see Dalvik Cache (don’t mess with this), Lost & Found and Recovery. If you tried to download an app and it got frozen for some reason and had to do a battery pull, the apk will be free floating in there, uninstalled (free floating radical). You can delete this. While it isn't in the Dalvik Cache folder, it is taking up space. Once you are able to download something completely and correctly from the market, it will populate into Dalvik Cache correctly and won't be a free radical, as I like to say.​
---For All Users (Miscellaneous)---​​​​​​
Some More Memory Clearing Tips:
Home Launcher:
If you have a 3rd party home launcher, see if it has the ability to long-press an icon to take you to its screen in the Manage Apps section. I use ADWex and if you long-press on say Market, it takes me to the same place as is I were to go to Settings>Applications>Manage Apps>Market. Instead of all that, just long-press on the icon and BAM! it takes you there. Here you can clear out your cache for the market or delete the data (if you need to do that). Or clear the cache of the XDA app because you looked at too many posts with pictures, etc.
Browsers:
These develop cache that takes up memory and space, especially the stock browser. If you use a 3rd party, you can get the settings to clear cache, cookies, passwords,…on exit. I use Dolphin, but I am pretty sure that most have something like this on them. (side note: most 3rd party browsers once exited will not run in the background unlike the stock one)
Media:
So you download a bunch of mp3's from the internet or you've clicked on some pix and saved them to your SD card. Or maybe you just felt like wiping your card and having a fresh start. Every time you reboot, you phone will scan media. No big deal, but the more you criss-cross things from PC to phone and back again, it can create a bunch of double files in your media cache on the phone. With the proper placement of .nomedia files (this prevents your media scanner from doing just that, scanning media- i.e. pix, jpegs,…Don’t place a .nomedia in your music, album art or DCIM files**bad). Every once in a while, I'll hit the Diskusage or go to Manage apps and clear the media cache. Then I got to my file manager and the DCIM->Thumbs and delete the thumbnails files (should be 2). Unmount the SD card and remount to start the media scan, pull up the Gallery and wait for the thumbs to come back (depending on how many you have, this could take awhile). By doing this you can get almost 5 mb back if you have a bunch of double scans in your media folder.​
Applications That Use Advertisements:
Try to avoid ad-supported applications, if you can. A research showed that in apps where there is adds, 70% of the power use comes from downloading and managing those adds to your screen. With just a 30 second use of an application that uses ads, it might drain your fully charged battery anywhere from 0.35% to 0.70%, which is enough to completely discharge the battery within a couple of hours if the process is repeated. This, according to a team of researchers, show that applications using advertisement support can take a high toll on your Android smartphone’s battery. The researchers analyzed how Android apps use the battery and concluded that the ad-serving processes that run in the background are responsible for heavy battery drainage. This may not seem like much, but so many applications that are free utilize advertisements and are blasted about the bottom or top of your application. I know I'll likely get ostracized for mentioning this, at least by some of the developers who rely on ad-support within their applications, but there is a way to eliminate these ads from showing themselves in your application(s). This is for BOTH rooted and un-rooted devices, as there are applications available from Google Play Store, such as AdFree Android (for ROOTED users only) or you can find one that will work on a non-rooted device. Or better yet, you could pony up the nominal dollar or two and show your own support for your favorite applications by buying the paid version, and thus eliminating the ads in that manner.​
*I will be updating this OP as I see necessary, and if anyone has useful tips that I may have missed or overlooked, please let me know. I'm aware that there are threads of this capacity floating about through XDA, but I have taken the liberty to create on specifically for our community.
Credits & Big Thanks To: Woodrube

Wakelocks Explained
Two final notes before I get started with the Wakelock Portion of this guide: Do not go wakelock hunting right after installing a new ROM or clean-wipe reinstalling your current one. New ROMs cause the phone to go nuts for a little while, as things decache and little behind-the-scenes tweaks are made. Wait one full battery cycle (100% to 0%, which you're probably doing to calibrate after a clean ROM install anyway) before trying this, or you'll drive yourself nuts. Also, remember that solving one wakelock will often create another, especially early in this process. That's normal and to be expected. God does not hate you, your ROM of choice is not crap, your phone is not glitched, and a clean install while your current ROM is still settling in will only make things worse.
So, how do you track these wakelocks down with BBS? This is a really complicated procedure, so make sure you're with me. First, open BBS. Then, see the drop down menu at the top that probably says "Other" right now? Tap it, and then you'll see "Kernel Wakelocks" and "Partial Wakelocks" below. That was obscenely difficult, right?
There are a couple of other features of BBS that we'll make extensive use of later, but there's one you need to know right now. Tap your phone's menu button to get the BBS menu up. Tap on "More". See the button that says "Set Custom Ref."? You'll need it--you'll need it a lot.
Last, but certainly not least: modifying your system in any way, including altering or deleting processes needed to resolve wakelocks, can have unpredictable results. Use caution and make backups of your apps and data, as well as nandroid backups, frequently while finding and eliminating wakelocks. Any modifications you make are done at your own risk, and I assume no responsibility for any damage you may do to your phone while cleaning out wakelocks.
With that said, we'll get started with the KWLs, as they're the trickiest to get rid of. Use the guide below to identify your wakelock, what is causing it, and how to get rid of it.
KERNEL WAKELOCKS
wlan_rx, wlan_rx_wake, wlan_wake: This is a wakelock caused by network traffic. The easy solution would be to just turn off Wifi, but be careful doing so! If an app goes to sync and it sees that Wifi is off, it will search for a mobile data connection (which causes the ConnectivityService wakelock). If it can't find a mobile data connection, it will wait and search again at its next sync interval and/or automatically sync when the phone wakes up. This wakelock can also, deceptively, be caused by the Wifi network itself as it refreshes connections or refreshes IPs.
To fix: This is a tricky little sucker to fix, as there are so many possible causes for it. Airplane mode is a safe bet--syncing apps seem to "respect" airplane mode, whereas if Wifi alone is turned off, they'll just try to find a way around. But then, of course, you lose your ability to talk on the phone. If you're particularly unlucky, your Wifi network itself will be the problem.
PowerManagerService: This is probably your #1 or #2 kernel wakelock, and you'd probably love to get rid of it at all costs, right? Hate to say it, but there's not much that can be done about this one. PowerManagerService is a KWL that serves as a "catch-all" for your PWLs. It's a placeholder, nothing more, nothing less. Don't spend much time worrying about it.
To fix: Reduce PWLs. See below.
deleted_wake_locks: Remember what I said above about force-stopping an app and deleting its cache and data before uninstalling it? This wakelock is why. It's the PowerManagerService for deleted apps. Once the app is gone, the wakelocks it caused suddenly become unknown to the system, so they get lumped in here. This number can also go up as the system "looks for" deleted apps and/or finds more wakelocks associated with them, but not dramatically.
To fix: Make sure to force close apps and wipe their cache and data before deleting. A reboot should eliminate the wakelock entirely. If it's still showing up, wipe phone cache and Dalvik.
sdio_al: This is an annoying wakelock, as there are two potential causes for it. One's easy, and one sucks. The easy one is that you've fallen victim to the charger wakelock. If your charger shows up as AC Regular Charge, there's your problem. If it's AC Fast Charge or USB Normal Charge, your wakelock is caused by your SD card. That can be an irritating fix, but the SD card version of this wakelock is typically small enough that it's not worth addressing.
To fix: Check your charger and adjust if needed. If it's the SD card, it's probably not a strong enough wakelock to be worth fixing, but if you want to fix it, you'll have to format your SD card. If formatting doesn't work, format it again, then wipe cache and Dalvik.
alarm_rtc: This is your phone's internal alarm scheduler, set to wake up your phone for sync, push, etc. Closely related to the AlarmManager PWL.
To fix: Check your apps and make sure they're only set to sync when you want them to, not for constant push or stupid-short intervals.
mmc0_detect, mmc1_detect, mmc2_detect: I'll be honest, I have no idea what causes these. Fortunately, they seem to be minimal, so I've never wasted much time worrying about them.
To fix: Good question!
vbus_present: This is a weird one. I never could quite figure out what causes it, but it seems like it's there as long as the phone's plugged it. Strange...
To fix: Check your phone. Is there a cord plugged into it? If so, does that cord lead to a source of power? Like, I don't know, an adapter plugged into a wall socket? That's your root cause. vbus_present is a completely harmless wakelock, which will appear for as long as your charger is plugged into your phone. Set a custom reference point in BBS when you unplug, and you'll note that it's magically disappeared.
There are a number of other, lesser KWLs that I'm not going to worry about here because you shouldn't worry about them either. You might occasionally see a battery cycle with very low (sub-1%) KWLs, but that's the exception and not at all the rule.
PARTIAL WAKELOCKS
PWLs are a different beast. These are almost all caused by an app (with a couple of notable exceptions). For that reason, I won't go in-depth on too many of them, as the solution is usually to delete the app causing them. There are a few notable ones, and a few apps that merit mention.
AudioOut_1: This is an evil leech of a wakelock that will drain you dry if given the chance. For being such a pain in the app, it's surprisingly easy to get rid of. This wakelock is created whenever the phone's speaker plays a sound. With 99% of sounds, it goes away almost instantly. With keypad sounds, however, it doesn't go away so quickly, and it will sit there draining your battery for as long as it goes unnoticed.
To fix: Open Settings, then select sound. Turn off key tone sounds, touch sounds, screen lock sounds and vibrate on screen tap. It'll take some getting used to, but the extra battery you'll coax out just by solving this ridiculously simple problem is more than worth it. See DoctorQMM's post (#5), linked at the end of this one, for info on additional causes of this wakelock and how to fix them.
ConnectivityService: This will appear whenever your phone is trying to connect to a mobile data network. Excessive wakelocking here suggests that your phone is having a hard time finding a network, and an even harder time staying on it.
To fix: Test out different radios and see if one's better in your area. If you're able to control your radio bands and you don't live in an LTE area, setting your phone to hunt for GSM/HSPA connections only can save you a little bit of juice here. Not much, but every drop counts, and if you're not using LTE anyway.
AlarmManager: This isn't a wakelock unto itself so much as it's a compilation of app alarms and the time they held the device awake for. Seeing the wakelock alone doesn't tell you much, but here's where one of those features of BBS that I said we'd be using comes in.
To fix: Open BBS. Tap the menu button, then "More", then "Raw Alarms". That will show you which apps are waking up your phone, and how often they're doing so. Google will have a ton of wake-ups, but they're mostly innocuous. We'll discuss some of Google's problem apps later. Email clients will also have a ton of alarms. If anything else looks out of whack, though, first check the app settings to see how often it's refreshing. If the app is set to refresh every hour but it's set off 400 alarms in the last 30 minutes, get rid of that sucker and email the dev. You can't eliminate this wakelock, and it's constantly my #1 PWL at this point, but you can minimize it.
MediaScannerService: This is a wakelock created by the system as it scans your device for music, movies, pictures, etc. Once in a while, it will randomly get hung up and hold the phone at 384 MHz for...well...until you notice and do something about it. Like AudioOut_1, this is a heavy-drain wakelock. Luckily, like AudioOut_1, it's almost always easy to fix.
To fix: Reboot. Ninety-nine times or so out of a hundred, this solves the problem. If the problem persists, go to Settings>Applications>Running then tap on "Show cached processes". Find the Media process and stop it manually to kill the wakelock. That's a short-term fix, though, as a persistent wakelock from this process most likely means you have a corrupt media file somewhere on your phone- and there are a lot of sounds, movies and images on your phone. This is one of the few wakelocks that, if it's a regular problem, justifies considering a full wipe and clean reinstall. That's not because it's doing any kind of damage to your phone, but more because sifting through every single media file on your phone to find the culprit isn't really a practical solution.
SyncLoopWakeLock: This is exactly what it sounds like; your phone is being held awake while apps sync. There are two possible causes for this: apps syncing (duh) and a bad data connection.
To fix: Open BBS. Tap the menu button, then "More", then "Raw Network Stats". This will show you which apps are using the most data, and help you narrow down possible culprits. Once you've done so, check those app settings and make sure they're not set to constantly push notifications, refresh every five minutes or anything dumb like that. If they're set correctly and still holding sync open that long, try downloading the Speed Test app off of the Play Store and test your phone's connection. If your connection is on the slow side, it's possible that the apps are struggling to sync because of your bad data connection. Try flashing different radios to see if that solves it. If the troublesome apps remain so after you've found a better radio, it's best to just delete or freeze them.
GTALK_ASYNC_CONN family: Despite its name, this wakelock doesn't seem to be directly related to Google Talk. How do I know? I haven't had Google Talk on this phone in over a month, but the wakelock still pops up from time to time. These wakelocks can be absolute destroyers of your battery if given the chance, and unfortunately, there's no known root cause for them, and no reliable way of eliminating them.
To fix: These wakelocks will often disappear within a minute or so of generating. If one becomes persistent, reboot into recovery and wipe cache and Dalvik ASAFP. That solves the problem temporarily, but it will reoccur. Thanks, Google.
NetworkLocationLocator: What a lovely name for such a lovely wakelock. It's a minor annoyance usually, nothing more. If this one is persistent, it's because you're in an area with crappy cell coverage and very few Google-mapped WiFi networks.
To fix: Why, exactly, are you leaving Network Location on all the time anyway?
SCREEN_FROZEN: Uh oh.
To fix: If this is high on your list, you've got bigger problems than a wakelock.
PWL OFFENDING APPS
We're almost done, I promise!
Down here, I'm going to list off for you apps that will cause you severe PWL migraines, and what to do about them.
A note when uninstalling Google built-ins: Google built-ins are often system packages, and deleting them can have unpredictable results. I highly recommend freezing them in Titanium Backup for several days to see how the phone runs before uninstalling them through there as well. Deleting system processes is inherently risky, and I assume no responsibility for your own decisions.
Facebook: Any social networking app will want to sync as often as it can, but you can overrule that by setting notification intervals. Thing is, Facebook doesn't respect those intervals, and wakes up the device for data exchanges pretty constantly (even though your news feed may only update every hour or so when you want it to). This app is no better than bloat, and should be treated as such when you clean house.
Alternative App: Friendcaster. It's as good a third-party Facebook client as you'll find on Android, and it only wakes up when you tell it to.
Gmail: A running theme here will be that if there's a non-Google equivalent to a Google app, you should probably kill the Google and download the alternative. Gmail is an alarm fiend, and one of the main offenders if you have an excessive SyncLoopWakeLock problem.
Alternative App: How many email clients are out there? I've had the best luck with the stock Email app, but K-9, Kaiten, MailDroid, even Enhanced Email and Touchdown for the power users are all great alternatives. Speaking of which...
Whatever email client you're using: Email clients will always be high up on the list of alarms, and that's by their nature. Keep an eye with raw network stats on how long they're connected for, and don't be afraid to experiment. I tried K-9, Kaiten and MailDroid before settling back on the stock Email app as the one that gave me the best balance of battery life and necessary features.
Alternative Apps: Download and try out different clients until you find the one that works for you. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, right?
Google Latitude: Latitude is a tracking service. As such, it tracks you. Beyond the creepiness aspect of that, it holds your phone awake pretty often while doing so. Kill it. Kill it with fire.
Alternative App: Personally, I'm not into the whole stalking thing, but I've heard that Glympse works quite well.
Google Maps: Colossal waste of space and battery. You can do better. An important note on Google Maps: this app will still wake your device up even after being frozen in Titanium Backup. I don't know how it happens, but it does. To truly solve the alarms from Google Maps, you have no choice but to uninstall it. Do so at your own risk.
Alternative Apps: I'm a fan of Waze for navigation and MapQuest for a Google Maps-ish "browseable" interface. OSMAnd is also a great alternative, but it uses a ton of internal memory because of its offline nature.
Google Play Music & Movies: Updates itself constantly and wakelocks. Even if you freeze it, it still somehow manages to tell you that there's an update available. It's the Google zombie.
Alternative App: There are literally 100+ music and/or movie players out there. I'm sure you can find one that works for you. I'm a big fan of RocketPlayer for music, and I just use the stock video app more often than not.
JuiceDefender: What's that you say? JD sets off tons of alarms and holds the device awake for more time than I'd care to discuss, largely because of its data control settings. More harm than good, in my opinion.
Alternative Apps: JuiceDefender's main goal in life is to minimize the amount of time your device is held awake. Therefore, if you've just gone through all this to clear out wakelocks, do you really need another wakelock-prone app to do what you've already done?
Skype: Occasionally, after a call, Skype will wakelock. This is not designed to happen, and is more a glitch in the app than a forced sync. Force-stopping the app and clearing its cache have solved it for me on the rare occasion that I've seen the wakelock occur.
Alternative Apps: No idea. I don't personally consider this a "replace" situation.
That's the bulk of what I've learned from clearing out wakelocks. Remember how, early on, I specified that the search engine of your choice was the third tool? Simple fact is, I haven't installed every app on the planet, so I haven't seen every PWL out there. Because of the way my phone's set up, there are KWLs that I've never seen and never will. If you've got a pesky wakelock that won't go away and it's causing noticeable battery drain, Google (or Bing, or Ask.com, or whatever) is your friend. Good luck, happy hunting, and enjoy the extra battery life you'll get just by spending a few hours over the course of a few days tracking down and killing those wakelocks.
Credits & Big Thanks To: T.J. Bender

A Little Charging Trick
If, after rooting or more likely that case after flashing a new ROM, you often have battery reporting errors, and re-calibrating the battery along with some steps I will outline for you below will ensure that your battery is getting a full charge, and the battery reporting accuracy is right on. I run my device's CPU governor in performance mode all the time, and with a CPU overclock of 1.25GHz and various tweaks, I have about a day and a half - to a day and a quarter of full run time from my battery. This is with moderate usage (calls, emailing, text, gaming, web browsing, etc.) so you should have no problems getting acceptable battery performance after following these steps, coupled with the ones I've given in the OP:
1. Take the case off your Atrix 2 (one of the latter steps involves taking the battery out from the phone while it's plugged in. Make sure your case won't stand in the way.)
2. Install Battery Calibration app from the market
3. Plug in your Atrix 2 to charge while it's on, wait till it gets to a 100%
4. When the charge is 100%, open the BatteryCalibration app and lookup what the charge is in MV while at 100%. Write it down.
My Atrix 2 was showing ~3400MV while at 100%, which is definitely not the maximum capacity.
5. Discharge your Atrix 2 completely until it shuts off.
A good way of doing this quickly is by turning on wifi, and a video player.
6. Without turning on the phone plug it into a wall charger and let it get to 100%
7. When it's at 100%, without unplugging it from the wall charger, take off the battery cover, and take the battery out.
Your phone will "reboot" and show a Missing Battery icon.
8. Without unplugging the phone from the wall charger or turning it on, put the battery back in and wait until the phone recognizes the battery.
9. Your battery should now be recognized by the phone, and showing a charge % significantly lower than 100%.
Mine showed only 5%.
10. Let it sit there charging for 2-3 hours (or more).
My phone wouldn't charge past 10%, but yours might. The numbers don't matter much as the phone is definitely getting additional charge that could have been lost while flashing ROMs, etc.
11. After 2-3 hours (or more), turn the phone on while holding the volume down button and get into CWM.
Do not disconnect it from the charger still!
12. Wipe battery stats in CWM, reboot.
Do not disconnect it from the charger still!
13. When the phone turns on, go into Battery Calibration app again and look up your MV numbers -if you were like me, they should be significantly higher than before. After this whole process I had 4351MV at 100%, comparing to 3400MV before calibration.
Do not disconnect it from the charger still!
14. Before going to sleep - Install Watchdog Task Manager Lite from the market. Go into it's preferences, set CPU threshhold to 20%, check "Include phone processes", check "Monitor phone processes", check "Display all phone processes", set system CPU threshhold to 20% as well.
Do not disconnect it from the charger still!
15. Make sure your wifi and data connections are off. Now finally unplug the phone from the charger.
Go to bed, let your phone sleep too.
16. Success! Next morning check where your battery % is at and if you followed the instructions correctly / got lucky like me, your battery life should be 90% or more.
I went to bed with 98% and woke up to 94%. So, I consider this mission a success.

NICE JOB!!!!
Sticky... I will ask...

Nice Guide just fixed minor things and my battery is already better!
Sent from my locked MB865 on Ice Cream Sandwich.

temperature
what causes battery temperature rising ? oc? data? games?
cause i've noticed that battery drops horribly on graph when temperature increases

shardul.phatak said:
what causes battery temperature rising ? oc? data? games?
cause i've noticed that battery drops horribly on graph when temperature increases
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery temperature is a direct result of device usage. If you go to sleep at night, and are NOT charging your phone overnight, in the morning when you wake up and roll over to check xda or Facebook or whatever, the phone isn't warm, right? During the day, if you're running a browser or streaming music or just have a lot of screen time on, your phone will get warmer and warmer. It's hard to say without seeing any test results from your phone as to what is causing higher temperatures, but it's safe to say that any or all of the things you listed could be a cause. Obviously, overclocking WILL cause your phone to run warmer. Your permitting a higher CPU load value at the maximum frequency scaling, and subsequently your phone's CPU is working harder. Try some (or most) of the suggestions in this thread and see if you notice a lower temperature and battery drop as a result of the changes...

Great guide mister strider!
Motorola lied and I'm still locked mb865

Nice! Thanks for putting this together, Apex... Keep on striding, man!

Apex_Strider,
Can you tell us the final result when you applied these trick on your phone ?
Mine was not used any above, and gave me ~24hrs with heavy use, wifi on 24/24, screen on 5h using wifi. Phone for 15 mins/day, sometime movies for 2hrs.
I charged it at 22:30 PM every night.

Awesome guide. I made my lady read it. She was constantly complaining about her new atrix2's battery life. She learned quit a bit. It was easier to take this way than coming from a frustrated loved one.
You should use your skills to write a guide about how to use the report button and what help or response should be given and how to give it by non op's or those not involved in a given project for all the sudo (ha!) forum cops. (See I can't do it. My sentences are too long.) The constant correcting of anyone by everyone is getting annoying.
Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2

Nice guide Apex!! Keep up the excellent work!

Thanks guys, your appreciation of my time doing these is more appreciated than I can say. Writing has always been a passion of mine, and really the only thing I was good at in school/college- when I wasn't ingesting illicit substances by the truck load. I'm working another guide thread now, hopefully completing it by tonight or tomorrow sometime. Thinking, since I'm nowhere near "dev" status or knowledge, I might apply for Recognized Contributor. Not sure we have any here in this community, at least that's not as present here as I am. Not to slight anyone who might be one, just haven't seen any floating around in here...
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium

Apex_Strider said:
Thanks guys, your appreciation of my time doing these is more appreciated than I can say. Writing has always been a passion of mine, and really the only thing I was good at in school/college- when I wasn't ingesting illicit substances by the truck load. I'm working another guide thread now, hopefully completing it by tonight or tomorrow sometime. Thinking, since I'm nowhere near "dev" status or knowledge, I might apply for Recognized Contributor. Not sure we have any here in this community, at least that's not as present here as I am. Not to slight anyone who might be one, just haven't seen any floating around in here...
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait isn't "ingesting illicit substances" part of the college curriculum? If it is not officially it should be, cause it does, ur, um, it did help... LOL.

vinamilk said:
Apex_Strider,
Can you tell us the final result when you applied these trick on your phone ?
Mine was not used any above, and gave me ~24hrs with heavy use, wifi on 24/24, screen on 5h using wifi. Phone for 15 mins/day, sometime movies for 2hrs.
I charged it at 22:30 PM every night.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you asking for my "results", meaning my battery usgae stats (i.e.: maximum duration of battery from full charge to full discharge, screen time, etc.)? If so, I'll have to do this again, as it's been a couple of months since I had. Keep in mind, that everyone's results will vary, as it depends on so many different variables.
Also, being on WiFi will demand less from your battery than relying solely on the network connection. So, if you're 'always' on WiFi, you will get more from your battery than not. On my Atrix 2, I can get a full day or more from one full charge. Now, this is from my usage, and like I mentioned -everyone's will vary. Generally speaking, in practical use Wi-Fi isn’t any more or less friendly on your battery than cellular is. Sure there are differences, but the biggest one of all is distance. Since you’re probably a good-deal closer to your Wi-Fi WAP than you are to your cellular tower, it’s likely that your battery life will be better if you’re using Wi-Fi rather than cellular data.
The charging trick I outlined in this thread is very useful for battery reporting errors after flashing a new rom, or just is one feels like their battery isn't getting the kind of "full" charge it should. It helped me out, as well as others...

I have an extended battery that I've run through several full drain/charge cycles over the past two weeks (when I got it). However, it still doesn't register the charge % properly - it will say 5% for over a day. I used the BatteryCalibration app to no avail.
Ideas?

Ajfink said:
I have an extended battery that I've run through several full drain/charge cycles over the past two weeks (when I got it). However, it still doesn't register the charge % properly - it will say 5% for over a day. I used the BatteryCalibration app to no avail.
Ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try the battery charge trick above, without the Watchdog part -sounds like a battery reporting error. Are you using 1% battery mods?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium

Apex_Strider said:
Try the battery charge trick above, without the Watchdog part -sounds like a battery reporting error. Are you using 1% battery mods?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I'm completely stock with root.
The Battery Calibration app DOES list the appropriate mV levels, though.
I'll give it a shot.

governors, i/o schedulers ?
may be this & this could help if u want to do sum experiment :silly:

+10 awesome job again !!!!!

[BATTERY STATS] [Erasing / Calibration]

Greetings;
I've Recently seen people asking for:
"How to Calibrate their Batteries"
Wich most people answer with:
"Get this app..."
That is just the same as telling them to kill their devices. Literally...
Peope telling you to download an application without knowing what's behind the whole process, will keep you from understanding/finding your real issue(s), and most likely to brick or cause involuntary damage to your precious device(s).
Please Read Below for "Resumed Info".
(Hopefully, the most succinct as possible).
I'm not the "Top Expert" therefore If you feel I'm missing anything and you're experienced enough...
Feel free to comment, correct and complete the info I'm providing.
Let's get this started:
WARNING!
You shouldn't "Calibrate" your Battery... Unless you really need to.
Never mess with it, unless you clearly see that the battery has decreased it's duration; and you see that after several full charges the duration didn't improve.
Notes:
- Battery Stats Rebuilds Automatically; unless you have a faulty Battery.
- Calibration / Erasing Battery Stats was a heavily discussed Topic (Long time ago...)
Some people claim that it is Placebo effect, others say it's the Holy Grail for Battery Fixing...
My Opinion: You should never mess with it, unless you clearly see that the battery has decreased it's duration; and you see that after several full charges the duration didn't improve.
Stock Battery Stats = Best Duration.
(Heavily Tested Myself).
To keep into Consideration:
I Don't exclude the chance of: "Bad Custom Roms Messing it up".
I could name a few "Rom Cooks / Names" that made my devices having similar battery duration symptoms. I cannot confirm that, as it is hard to prove. If you suspect of any Custom Rom, try using Stock Rom for a while.
Also:
If you use Custom Roms (Cyanogen Based ROMS)... It is pretty normal that the duration will decrease A LOT!
Those Customs are known for Good Performance but, Huge Battery Consumption.
(No Offense to Cyanogen. As without Cyanogen there wouldn't exist so many great Customs. Horrible ones as well though...)
For Constant Rom Testers:
After all those several flashes you must probably need "new" Battery Stats.
"How to Clean the Battery Stats"
For me a Clean Flash and System Perfection is Everything, therefore I would go as following:
1) Perfom a "Clean Flash".
Note: I would Flash Stock Rom.
More factory settings applied, means tons of bugs solved - At least in most situations.
2) Get your Device Fully Charged.
I think this is not important. But I've always done this way. Every single time to prevent any uncomfortable situations.
3) Assuming you have ClockWork Mod Recovery (a.k.a: CWM);
Enter Recovery Mode; Delete "Battery Stats";
4) Reboot into System;
5) Give some good use to your device for a few days.
Note: Give Intense Use on the 1st Day.
The stats will be fully rebuilt after a week or so. Maybe more on Old/Faulty Batteries (Up to a month).
However for a Faulty Battery, it can decrease even more it's duration, instead of improving it.
Hope this helps you out.
Best Regards;
Richard