Hi,
I was wondering if this is normal on my Touch PRO.
When I launch "Camera" app, go to settings and tap "Flash Light", the LED turns on and lights constantly until I tap it again to disable.
Accoring to manual (and common sense) it should allow the LED to make a high powered burst when shooting photo, and not just light constantly (I thought that 'torch' apps are for that).
In few words: My Touch PRO "flash light" LED works like a torch, not like flash.
Do you get this behaviour ?
Is it normal for a LED-enabled camera phone ?
Cheers
dont have a pro yet, but from what Ive read and seen on reviews its supposed to do that. It stays on then flashes when you take a picture. No need for a torch application..
hi
I get the same, when you turn the flash on the light comes on, when you take a pic it flashes gos out for 2-3 sec then turns back on.
This is normal behaviour. It was on my Hermes as well. The LED is enabled, but not at "full" extend. The light is meant so that the camera can focus when you are taking a photo in a dark environment. At the moment you make the actual photo, the LED lights up brighter for a second.
This behavior is necessary for taking pictures. The camera app assumes that if you turn on the flash, the ambient light level is low.
The flash then lights up at a medium level to help you frame the shot on the screen (that would otherwise be too dark or too noisy to see anything).
Finally, once you actually take the picture it flashes at full power to allow for a decent exposure.
I hope it helps.
Does exist any shortcut or program to turn on the flash light without starting up the Camera app for using it as a torch?
at the moment, no.
The usual suspect, VJCandela, doesn't seem to work with the Raphael just yet.
Hi all,
I've this idea. Can we turn the flash light (LED) on, during photo /video shooting?
The camera is hardly focus on the object, as the low light condition. All the photos I took were blur.
Situation 1, The current camera is:
1. Turn on the flashing mode. No LED light turn on.
2. Focus and snap photo.
3. Flashing light. (LED turn on)
4. The photo still blur, as the camera cannot focus the object at all before that.
Situation 2, If we can:
1. Turn on the LED light. Soft or Bright light (maybe in two modes?)
2. The object should be focused and snap it.
3. Light turn off.
4. Saving nice great photo.
Actually I used to have a Sony Ericsson K750, it worked perfectly as described in situation 2. Hope you guys get what I meant here.
Just wonder how do we change these? I am new to this Android.
I would love to learn how to program it.
When taking pictures in low light conditions pictures come out cmpletely black. Here is what happens:
Under lowlight condition + Flash + everything auto / default
1. Camera lights up flash
2. Picture shows up in the screen for a second with bright colors
3. Picture gets written to the memory
4. When viewing the picture is totally blacked out (underdeveloped)
When taking pictures in normal light conditions they come out ver good....
Any clue?
the camera is very slow to take pictures in low light conditions (e.g. an indoors party) it takes about 5 to 10 sec between pressing the button and the camera taking the picture.
I'm running android 5.1.1 that came with the phone (not rooted)
I tried changing settings and selecting a specific iso setting, white balance and macro instead of auto focus does make it quicker, about 3 seconds.
Any thoughts?
Here a a few tips on controlling the stock camera app in auto-mode that you may or not be aware off.
Just thought it may be of help to other owners.
We know we can control pretty much all aspects of camera in manual mode (focus, metering, ISO, WB, etc).
However, on the Xperia 5 the manual mode generates more noise in the images than the auto-mode, especially noisy in non-HDR mode whith dark environments on the photo background areas, edges and faces.
So I end up using mostly the auto-mode except to force HDR or for long-exposure shots.
In auto-mode, there are quite a few things I found frustrating compared to manual mode, but for which there are solutions:
Control scene detection: sometimes you don't want auto Backlight (HDR), Document, Food, etc. >> To temporarily disable scene detection in auto-mode, simply click on the sun icon on the left. When the icon is blue all photos are taken in standard mode: no HDR or special color processing.
1st Edit: Condition: you must use tap to focus. (If you just focus with the shutter software button, the hardware button or object tracking, scene detection won't disengage unless you actually change brightness or tint.)
Control focus: eye focus works quite well for faces. To focus on other objects, auto-mode has 3 options:
1. Auto-focus (the large green rectangle that appears when you click on shutter soft or hardware button): This tries to guess what the subject is and often leads to unpredictable results.
2. Object tracking (yellow rectangle): This is useful for moving objects. I don't use it for anything else because it typically detects and focuses on the outer edges of objects instead of the center of objects, making for blurred subjects. Also it works really bad for very small objects or when it's darker.
3. Tap to focus (blue circle): This lets you choose precisely the focus point. Much better focus results in general than method 1 or 2 above.
Control exposure: Auto-exposure is pretty good if you just point and shoot. But if you use the precise tap to focus method in auto-mode, light metering is measured on the point you clicked, and you also loose scene detection and HDR, so that's not often what you want, unless you want your black cat to turn white on the photo ! The problem is that in auto-mode there is no option in settings "Touch to adjust: Focus only" (option only available in manual mode). ...Well in fact there is a way: enable "Touch capture" in camera settings. This in fact lets you tap on screen to focus (and shoot), while still doing light-metering on the whole scene and keeping scene detection ON.
1st Edit: When touch capture is ON, tapping on screen sometimes fails to focus because the picture is taken before the camera has time to focus, especially in low light. In this case you have to take the picture twice or use the timer so it has time to focus. Well this pretty much makes this "tip" useless !
2nd Edit: Sometimes the camera fails to focus if there no contrast on the clicked zone, but touch capture is not the cause. Try to tap on a zone with more contrast to improve focus success.
So in summary here is how I set for most pictures:
1. Use auto-mode (better noise-reduction than manual mode)
2. Disable object tracking (enables the more precise tap to focus).
3. Enable Touch capture (preserve HDR, multi-metering and scene detection with tap to focus. 1st Edit: when it actually manages to focus before picture is taken, basically only in good light it seems.).
In some special situations, I adjust the following:
4. Click on sun icon, 1st Edit: then tap to focus (when I want to disable scene detection / HDR)
5. Use the lamp flash (only for macro shots in very dark condition to get usable ISO/speed)
6. Use the flash (only when necessary to get usable ISO/speed or to compensate huge backlit situation)
7. Adjust brightness with slider (if I really need to tweak brightness)
All in all I find that all the above settings allow for flexible controls and good results in auto-mode.
Of course you may have a different usage and set yours completely differently.
chgr said:
Here a a few tips on controlling the stock camera app in auto-mode that you may or not be aware off.
Just thought it may be of help to other owners.
We know we can control pretty much all aspects of camera in manual mode (focus, metering, ISO, WB, etc).
However, on the Xperia 5 the manual mode generates more noise in the images than the auto-mode, especially noisy in non-HDR mode whith dark environments on the photo background areas, edges and faces.
So I end up using mostly the auto-mode except to force HDR or for long-exposure shots.
In auto-mode, there are quite a few things I found frustrating compared to manual mode, but for which there are solutions:
Control scene detection: sometimes you don't want auto Backlight (HDR), Document, Food, etc. >> To temporarily disable scene detection in auto-mode, simply click on the sun icon on the left. When the icon is blue all photos are taken in standard mode: no HDR or special color processing.
Control focus: eye focus works quite well for faces. To focus on other objects, auto-mode has 3 options:
1. Auto-focus (the large green rectangle that appears when you click on shutter soft or hardware button): This tries to guess what the subject is and often leads to unpredictable results.
2. Object tracking (yellow rectangle): This is useful for moving objects. I don't use it for anything else because it typically detects and focuses on the outer edges of objects instead of the center of objects, making for blurred subjects. Also it works really bad for very small objects or when it's darker.
3. Tap to focus (blue circle): This lets you choose precisely the focus point. Much better focus results in general than method 1 or 2 above.
Control exposure: Auto-exposure is pretty good if you just point and shoot. But if you use the precise tap to focus method in auto-mode, light metering is measured on the point you clicked, and you also loose scene detection and HDR, so that's not often what you want, unless you want your black cat to turn white on the photo ! The problem is that in auto-mode there is no option in settings "Touch to adjust: Focus only" (option only available in manual mode). ...Well in fact there is a way: enable "Touch capture" in camera settings. This in fact lets you tap on screen to focus (and shoot), while still doing light-metering on the whole scene and keeping scene detection ON.
So in summary here is how I set for most pictures:
1. Use auto-mode (better noise-reduction than manual mode)
2. Disable object tracking (enables the more precise tap to focus).
3. Enable Touch capture (preserve multi-metering and scene detection with tap to focus).
In some special situations, I adjust the following:
4. Click on sun icon (when I want to disable scene detection / HDR)
5. Use the lamp flash (only for macro shots in very dark condition to get usable ISO/speed)
6. Use the flash (only when necessary to get usable ISO/speed or to compensate huge backlit situation)
7. Adjust brightness with slider (if I really need to tweak brightness)
All in all I find that all the above settings allow for flexible controls and good results in auto-mode.
Of course you may have a different usage and set yours completely differently.
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Quite useful tips, thanks! Especially considering that camera quality appeared to be below my expectations (coming from Pixel devices, Huawei Mate 20 Pro, P30, Galaxy Note 10+). There are few complains about X5 camera system with which I can't do anything about. Firstly, quite slow camera app start up time and its overall performance compared to other devices. Secondly, focusing system is clearly inferior too. Main camera struggles to focus on objects a way too often in situations where others do it easily. Thirdly, HDR mode nearly useless (absolutely useless compared to, say, Pixel 2). Also camera has difficulties to make decent pictures in conditions different from ideal - blown out skies, crushed dark areas, overexposure problems are not something rare here. Finally, low light performance is a way below the competition. Making good pictures in low light from handheld phone is nearly impossible. Blurry mess or aqua painting effect is guaranteed. I hope that Sony will address these issues in future updates.