What component is this? [Q] - General Questions and Answers

Hi, I have an ATT Galaxay Note 3 that won't turn on. I repair phones so I was checking to make sure everything inside was good and I stumbled upon this. I compared it to another note 3 that was also GSM and it did have this component so I believe this is what's causing the problem. Now the issue I'm having is that I don't know what part this is and where I could find it. If anybody could shed some light and help me out it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
P.S. I'm new to the forum so if this is the wrong place to ask questions I'm sorry.

irepair18 said:
Hi, I have an ATT Galaxay Note 3 that won't turn on. I repair phones so I was checking to make sure everything inside was good and I stumbled upon this. I compared it to another note 3 that was also GSM and it did have this component so I believe this is what's causing the problem. Now the issue I'm having is that I don't know what part this is and where I could find it. If anybody could shed some light and help me out it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
P.S. I'm new to the forum so if this is the wrong place to ask questions I'm sorry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that's an smd capacitor

Where could I get one?
izzylaif said:
that's an smd capacitor
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know where I could find it?

irepair18 said:
Do you know where I could find it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ebay perhaps

irepair18 said:
Hi, I have an ATT Galaxay Note 3 that won't turn on. I repair phones so I was checking to make sure everything inside was good and I stumbled upon this. I compared it to another note 3 that was also GSM and it did have this component so I believe this is what's causing the problem. Now the issue I'm having is that I don't know what part this is and where I could find it. If anybody could shed some light and help me out it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
P.S. I'm new to the forum so if this is the wrong place to ask questions I'm sorry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sometimes In new revisions of devices they add or in this case remove components for various development reasons.
I am fairly certain that this is not what is causing the device not to boot. If it had been accidentally removed it would have done damage to the board or there would have been a piece of the capacitor still left. The only way that component could have been removed is if someone with precision desoldering kit removed it.
Can you elaborate on "won't turn on"?

Doesn't power on or show signs of life
Disgruntledbear said:
Sometimes In new revisions of devices they add or in this case remove components for various development reasons.
I am fairly certain that this is not what is causing the device not to boot. If it had been accidentally removed it would have done damage to the board or there would have been a piece of the capacitor still left. The only way that component could have been removed is if someone with precision desoldering kit removed it.
Can you elaborate on "won't turn on"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When the power button is pressed the phone does not vibrate or show any signs of life. It does not respond at all when it's connected to the computer. The power button has been replaced and it has a new battery. It does absolutely nothing when the power button is pressed. Any guesses as to what the problem might be?

irepair18 said:
When the power button is pressed the phone does not vibrate or show any signs of life. It does not respond at all when it's connected to the computer. The power button has been replaced and it has a new battery. It does absolutely nothing when the power button is pressed. Any guesses as to what the problem might be?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's possible that the device may have been hard bricked before it was given to you to repair. Since you mentioned your repair phones have you tried using JTAG to bring the device back to life.

I have not used JTAG
shimp208 said:
It's possible that the device may have been hard bricked before it was given to you to repair. Since you mentioned your repair phones have you tried using JTAG to bring the device back to life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not used JTAG bc I don't have a RIFF Box. I repair issues such as cracked screens, Water damage, and internal replacement parts and in some cases lcd connectors and battery ports. I also do a little but of software based stuff but no JTAG. Is there anyway to find out if the device is hard bricked or not?

irepair18 said:
I have not used JTAG bc I don't have a RIFF Box. I repair issues such as cracked screens, Water damage, and internal replacement parts and in some cases lcd connectors and battery ports. I also do a little but of software based stuff but no JTAG. Is there anyway to find out if the device is hard bricked or not?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the device doesn't vibrate at all, no LED, doesn't power on, can't access download mode (In your case since it's a Samsung device) or recovery, and doesn't respond at all when plugged into a computer, you made sure the battery was charged, and the device had adequate power, that usually means it's hard bricked. JTAG is likely the only option at this point.

JTAG
shimp208 said:
If the device doesn't vibrate at all, no LED, doesn't power on, can't access download mode (In your case since it's a Samsung device) or recovery, and doesn't respond at all when plugged into a computer, you made sure the battery was charged, and the device had adequate power, that usually means it's hard bricked. JTAG is likely the only option at this point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where could I find a good RIFF box and how do I use it? I know you have to solder some pins but how do you know which ones? Any knowledge on the subject would be appreciated. I have some basic knowledge on the subject but enough to start attempting these types of repairs. Thanks in advance.

irepair18 said:
Where could I find a good RIFF box and how do I use it? I know you have to solder some pins but how do you know which ones? Any knowledge on the subject would be appreciated. I have some basic knowledge on the subject but enough to start attempting these types of repairs. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A good box for JTAG is the RIFF box which you can find out where to purchase one from here. For which pins you have to solder the RIFF box has a feature which allows you to test which pins are which on the board that you need to solder. I would also highly recommend checking out this series of video tutorials, as well as this video on a HTC Wildfire S being resurrected as it gives some what of a tutorial on the process involved. Another possibility that may or may not work is a jig, what the jig does is it forces the device into download mode and you connect it to the micro usb port on the phone, you can purchase a usb jig from here.

Does it have to be activated
shimp208 said:
A good box for JTAG is the RIFF box which you can find out where to purchase one from here. For which pins you have to solder the RIFF box has a feature which allows you to test which pins are which on the board that you need to solder. I would also highly recommend checking out this series of video tutorials, as well as this video on a HTC Wildfire S being resurrected as it gives some what of a tutorial on the process involved. Another possibility that may or may not work is a jig, what the jig does is it forces the device into download mode and you connect it to the micro usb port on the phone, you can purchase a usb jig from here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I checked out some RIFF boxes and I was about to buy one when I noticed a warning about "activating" the RIFF box. Does this mean that if it isn't activated it won't work? Does the RIFF box need any updates and if so can I update without being activated?

irepair18 said:
I checked out some RIFF boxes and I was about to buy one when I noticed a warning about "activating" the RIFF box. Does this mean that if it isn't activated it won't work? Does the RIFF box need any updates and if so can I update without being activated?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not a an expert with regards to the RIFF box, but I believe it will still work without being activated but you won't be able to use many of it's features such as the official downloads on the RIFF servers and other important features. As far as updates are concerned, you should always try to use the latest RIFF box updates as each update adds support for more devices and other feature updates. More information about RIFF box licence activation can be found here.

JTAG connectors
shimp208 said:
I'm not a an expert with regards to the RIFF box, but I believe it will still work without being activated but you won't be able to use many of it's features such as the official downloads on the RIFF servers and other important features. As far as updates are concerned, you should always try to use the latest RIFF box updates as each update adds support for more devices and other feature updates. More information about RIFF box licence activation can be found here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Last question... I've also seen some connectors that claim to connect to the RIFF box and to the board. They're purpose is to avoid any soldering on the board. They just connect to the pins and to the RIFF box. Are these cables reliable? What are the pros/cons? Will I be able to use them with any phone model? I believe they're called JTAG Molex cables but I'm not sure.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/271527969827?nav=SEARCH
Here's the link to the connectors I saw. Thanks in advance for all of your help.

irepair18 said:
Last question... I've also seen some connectors that claim to connect to the RIFF box and to the board. They're purpose is to avoid any soldering on the board. They just connect to the pins and to the RIFF box. Are these cables reliable? What are the pros/cons? Will I be able to use them with any phone model? I believe they're called JTAG Molex cables but I'm not sure.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/271527969827?nav=SEARCH
Here's the link to the connectors I saw. Thanks in advance for all of your help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have no personnel experience with the molex cables. I have heard from others though that they do the job well and are reliable, and I believe you can use them on almost any model. Sorry I can't provide you with better information, I only have a little experience with JTAG.

Related

[Q] Hard brick with white LED after removing EMI shields? is it the eFuse?

Hello,
I opened up my Atrix 2 and removed the EMI shields so I could see what was really inside. After that it didn't boot up. Did I crack the eFuse chip or something? Yes I can connect it through USB as the CPU debug mode. But it doesn't boot up? And I know it isn't the battery because I hooked it up for 15 minutes to the wall with a charger with an indicator light and it still doesn't work.
Any input would be appreciated,
Thanks in advanced,
TCF38012
tcf38012 said:
Hello,
I opened up my Atrix 2 and removed the EMI shields so I could see what was really inside. After that it didn't boot up. Did I crack the eFuse chip or something? Yes I can connect it through USB as the CPU debug mode. But it doesn't boot up? And I know it isn't the battery because I hooked it up for 15 minutes to the wall with a charger with an indicator light and it still doesn't work.
Any input would be appreciated,
Thanks in advanced,
TCF38012
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You did not trip the efuse (that is only done by an electrical signal sent from the CPU itself). What you most likely did was trip a sensor when you removed the EMI sheild, that is a big no-no.. Since it is a sensor that is tripped, you can probably see the phone through USB in CPU debug. You do not have a true hardbrick. You might be able to find a new EMI shield sensor and replace it, but no guarantees that will fix it. I have seen in the past with this type of thing that this is done on purpose, so that the company knows you pulled it apart, and will not replace the phone for you, and why sometimes replacing the sensor does not fix the issue.
jimbridgman said:
You did not trip the efuse (that is only done by an electrical signal sent from the CPU itself. What you most likely did was trip a sensor when you removed the EMI sheild, that is a big no-no.. Since it is a sensor that is tripped, you can probably see the phone through USB in CPU debug. You do not have a true hardbrick. You might be able to find a new EMI shield sensor and replace it, but no guarantees that will fix it. I have seen in the past with this type of thing that this is done on purpose, so that the company knows you pulled it apart, and will not replace the phone for you, and why sometimes replacing the sensor does not fix the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks,
What will happen if i remove the sensor?
tcf38012 said:
Thanks,
What will happen if i remove the sensor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly the issue you already have, it is a required part of the circuit chain.
jimbridgman said:
Exactly the issue you already have, it is a required part of the circuit chain.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where is it located?
I can't find it
tcf38012 said:
Where is it located?
I can't find it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You won't find it, it is on the board itself, once the shield is removed, that is it, the link is broken. That is why I recommended getting a phone on ebay with a broken screen and just replacing the whole board with the emi shield still in place, and using your screen and digitizer. Motorola make these things a one shot disassemble. Think more like a grounding link to the board with a conductive gel and once the link it broken that "gel" is gone, and no more circuit for that sensor on the board to pick it up and that link to the board is permanently severed. There is a board mapping on the internet some place that shows all this, at one time it cost 1000 bucks for moto to allow the download, but I have seen people put out there, so.... you might have to dig for it, to get the exact points that you will have to re-patch, but be careful, it is not meant to be re-linked, and you can completely fry the thing if you miss or hit another point on the board.
OK,
I think it is kind of working now. After lots of useless bids on ebay and trying to order a new motherboard. I maybe finally fixed it by just simply putting some back on without superglue or anything and trying it from there.
Right now its just charging with the white LED. If you have the battery in and plug it up via usb, then it will turn on if its just charging. I just need to solder or whatever them back on to be more permenant .
thanks everybody,
TCF38012

Charging pin not working! How to replace?

Hi guys,
my phone's charging pin is not working. I am unable to connect any charger properly. It is happening with 3 chargers and a usb cable. So, I need to replace the pin. But, I have no idea where to get it done. Suggestions please?
Also, is it possible that I can fix this problem by myself (maybe it is just dirt issue)? If yes, how do I proceed with that?
Okay, so I bought new charger, got the pin changed, and still the same problem. My phone doesn't charge while it still displays "Charging". It doesn't matter whether it is connected or not. It just says "Charging". I have done two clean flash, and same issue. Heck it happens even with DDLF2. So, I am out of ideas.
Someone help me here. My phone is a brick for past 2 days now.
jitendragarg said:
Okay, so I bought new charger, got the pin changed, and still the same problem. My phone doesn't charge while it still displays "Charging". It doesn't matter whether it is connected or not. It just says "Charging". I have done two clean flash, and same issue. Heck it happens even with DDLF2. So, I am out of ideas.
Someone help me here. My phone is a brick for past 2 days now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Better consult to near service center !!!
rockydx said:
Better consult to near service center !!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No warranty now. Still, I will give it a go.
jitendragarg said:
No warranty now. Still, I will give it a go.
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Click to collapse
those idiots are charging around 7,000 rs to change motherboard at service center !!!!
holy hell. that is pretty much useless then.
If i were in your situation i would search Ebay for that part (Charging board).
And if possible with the tools including everything you need to disassemble the device.
If you're not experienced with phone repairs... Dont worry.
Check this i9003 Disassemble Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UW4T-aNkQY
The video shows that there is a Charging part.
Search for that part or dead / damaged devices.
Replace it and you're done.
If you want to go the hard way...
There are charging ports for 1$ or 2$.
If you have the proper tools its easy.
If not there are other ways. But it's very risky.
rgxHost said:
If i were in your situation i would search Ebay for that part (Charging board).
And if possible with the tools including everything you need to disassemble the device.
If you're not experienced with phone repairs... Dont worry.
Check this i9003 Disassemble Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UW4T-aNkQY
The video shows that there is a Charging part.
Search for that part or dead / damaged devices.
Replace it and you're done.
If you want to go the hard way...
There are charging ports for 1$ or 2$.
If you have the proper tools its easy.
If not there are other ways. But it's very risky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the help. I did asked mobile repair shop here, and they are expecting 100rs.(less than 2$) to replace the part. Turns out it is pretty common part and is almost always of same specifications.
Okay, so the socket/pin was not the issue. There was some water damage to the assembly itself. We tried 3 different sockets, and all resulted in same issue. But, replacing assembly itself was cheap enough. So, finally my phone is back and charging fine. :victory:
Good good and good again. Another SL didn't bite the dust.
Cheers
Sent from my GT-I9003

Damaged daughterboard connector from mainboard. Data still recoverable?

Hi all,
A follow up to my enquiry here about a badly damaged phone: forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/help/transplanting-main-board-data-recovery-t3253789.
I ordered a second Nexus 5 with the intention of transplanting the first mainboard into the second body, only to discover the first motherboard has a damaged daughterboard connector from the initial accident. The daughterboard connector/pins (?) aren't attached to the mainboard anymore. Photos here (that's the disconnected socket/connector next to the board):
cl.ly/142v473d2s17
cl.ly/33461J0K1Q2d
cl.ly/2S190F1v2M2c
In spite of the missing socket, I actually tried connecting it to the rest of the phone and powering it on anyway - no luck however. Didn't budge after holding down the power button. I can confirm that the rest of the second phone works when I plugged it all back together with it's mainboard.
Questions then - is it possible for a professional (presumably) to reconnect this and get the board back up and running? Or is my motherboard and data completely gone at this point?
I realise the solution probably won't be cheap at this stage, however I really want to recover some of the data off that phone and I'm just hoping that's in some way shape or form possible.
Thanks for any advice. Having a bad run of luck and really hoping for a bit of a holiday miracle with this now...
rflxion said:
Hi all,
A follow up to my enquiry here about a badly damaged phone: forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/help/transplanting-main-board-data-recovery-t3253789.
I ordered a second Nexus 5 with the intention of transplanting the first mainboard into the second body, only to discover the first motherboard has a damaged daughterboard connector from the initial accident. The daughterboard connector/pins (?) aren't attached to the mainboard anymore. Photos here (that's the disconnected socket/connector next to the board):
cl.ly/142v473d2s17
cl.ly/33461J0K1Q2d
cl.ly/2S190F1v2M2c
In spite of the missing socket, I actually tried connecting it to the rest of the phone and powering it on anyway - no luck however. Didn't budge after holding down the power button. I can confirm that the rest of the second phone works when I plugged it all back together with it's mainboard.
Questions then - is it possible for a professional (presumably) to reconnect this and get the board back up and running? Or is my motherboard and data completely gone at this point?
I realise the solution probably won't be cheap at this stage, however I really want to recover some of the data off that phone and I'm just hoping that's in some way shape or form possible.
Thanks for any advice. Having a bad run of luck and really hoping for a bit of a holiday miracle with this now...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
Sorry for your problems. To help yourself understand how your Nexus 5 hardware is put together you should take a look at the youTube video posted by LE55ONS "Nexus 5 Teardown" -. Just do a search for LE55ONS in YouTube. He has posted many very well made videos on how to repair smartphones.
It will show you every aspect of the hardware.
I hope that helps you
Bigbossradio said:
Hi
Sorry for your problems. To help yourself understand how your Nexus 5 hardware is put together you should take a look at the youTube video posted by LE55ONS "Nexus 5 Teardown" -. Just do a search for LE55ONS in YouTube. He has posted many very well made videos on how to repair smartphones.
It will show you every aspect of the hardware.
I hope that helps you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks but this doesn't really address what I've asked regarding the damaged connector.
I would say, in theory it should be possible to reattach that connector with the proper reflow equipment, but it rather depends on how much damage was done when it was pulled off the board. If it is just the solder that let go then not so bad, but if any of the copper pads/traces on the main board stayed attached to the connected when it got torn off then it becomes a much more difficult repair. The puzzling part is even with that connector removed you would think the main board would still be able to power up, with obviously the ports attached to the flex board not being available so that makes me wonder if perhaps other damage has been done to the main board? You could confirm this by seeing if can power up the other working Nexus with that same connector unplugged. If the other one powers up then that's a pretty strong indication you've got additional damage beyond just the torn off connector.

Question Who knows how to short the test points to enter the Qualcomm EDL flash mode

My Edge s bricked several days ago, Technical support said that there is no way to flah it back, except replace the motherboard, but the fees are high enought that you can buy a new one, so i give up, Today I disassembled the phone and tried to find the short test points to enter the EDL mode, But I don’t know which are the test points,Can anyone help look at the attached pictures, thank you.
Friendly reminder, Please don't try to relock phone like I did.
Unfortunately, I do not know what points to short in order for this to work, however I had a similar issue with my Asus Zenfone 6 and was able to resolve it using the following cable...
Amazon.com: USB C Cable, Deep Flash Cable Type C for Xiaomi Phone Models, Fast Charge Cable Open Port 9008 for BL Locks Engineering - White : Cell Phones & Accessories
Amazon.com: USB C Cable, Deep Flash Cable Type C for Xiaomi Phone Models, Fast Charge Cable Open Port 9008 for BL Locks Engineering - White : Cell Phones & Accessories
www.amazon.com
This was able to put my Zenfone into EDL mode.
Hello! the Edge S does not have any testpoint.
CCivale said:
Unfortunately, I do not know what points to short in order for this to work, however I had a similar issue with my Asus Zenfone 6 and was able to resolve it using the following cable...
Amazon.com: USB C Cable, Deep Flash Cable Type C for Xiaomi Phone Models, Fast Charge Cable Open Port 9008 for BL Locks Engineering - White : Cell Phones & Accessories
Amazon.com: USB C Cable, Deep Flash Cable Type C for Xiaomi Phone Models, Fast Charge Cable Open Port 9008 for BL Locks Engineering - White : Cell Phones & Accessories
www.amazon.com
This was able to put my Zenfone into EDL mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi CCivale, thanks for your reply, i tried the cable but no luck.
Interesting. This may or may not help...
What is EDL Mode and How to Boot your Qualcomm Android Device into it
Android phones and tablets equipped with Qualcomm chipset contain a special boot mode which could be used force-flash firmware files for the purpose of unbricking or restoring the stock ROM.
www.thecustomdroid.com
What is EDL Mode? How to Enter EDL Mode on Any Qualcomm Device
This guide will have an in-depth look at the EDL Mode on Qualcomm devices and its associated importance. Android devices are always known to be at the
www.getdroidtips.com
Electimon said:
Hello! the Edge S does not have any testpoint.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, Thanks for your clarification, maybe i have to give up software recovery, wait for the outdated cheap motherboard.
bj2020 said:
Hi, Thanks for your clarification, maybe i have to give up software recovery, wait for the outdated cheap motherboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just to be clear, did you try using the stock, factory firmware files and:
Code:
fastboot flash partition gpt.bin
fastboot flash motoboot bootloader.img
fastboot reboot-bootloader
I soft-bricked and did those three commands, then was able to flash back to stock via LMSA.
wow, I have the exact problem now for Edge S/G100 .... searching for "test point" brings me here.
I'll try the above FB commands and am still open for suggestions. Thanks...
[Help Again] - soft-bricked with LOCK bootloader
I need other suggestions\opions: * RSA failed at 50% * cannot unlock with "fastboot OEM unlock" [(bootloader) Check 'OEM unlocking' in Android Settings > Developer (bootloader) Options FAILED (remote failure)] Looking for other options: ADB...
forum.xda-developers.com
Electimon said:
Hello! the Edge S does not have any testpoint.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find that hard to believe; manufacturers love test points. They don't trash mobos over firmware... there's a way.
They aren't mark if present.
The location is likely proprietary until someone figures or leaks them out.
This is all I could find. Try asking here perhaps.
blackhawk said:
I find that hard to believe; manufacturers love test points. They don't trash mobos over firmware... there's a way.
They aren't mark if present.
The location is likely proprietary until someone figures or leaks them out.
This is all I could find. Try asking here perhaps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, on more expensive devices, the boards between EVT, DVT, PVT revisions change a lot because they can afford to. Production boards for this phone simply don't have the pins for it.
Electimon said:
Nope, on more expensive devices, the boards between EVT, DVT, PVT revisions change a lot because they can afford to. Production boards for this phone simply don't have the pins for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, well... the pin outs for that chipset are available from Qualcomm.
If there is no pin for that function on the chipset, then there's the definite answer that there's no way to do it. That's an easy way to verify it.
Otherwise it's game on...
The way to find it be to hot air the Qualcomm chipset off a trash mobo and trace out the correct pcb contact from the base of the BGA chipset (I assume it's a BGA form factor). The trace goes somewhere. While it could be s completely internal trace, I highly doubt that's the case. Even then there are still ways to get to it.
If the pin is there, there's a way...
Just depends how determined you are and you're skill level. Prototypes and repairs sometimes end up as scrap so you need to accept that reality as well. If you have a blown mobo to experiment and practice with you have nothing to lose.
blackhawk said:
Yes, well... the pin outs for that chipset are available from Qualcomm.
If there is no pin for that function on the chipset, then there's the definite answer that there's no way to do it. That's an easy way to verify it.
Otherwise it's game on...
The way to find it be to hot air the Qualcomm chipset off a trash mobo and trace out the correct pcb contact from the base of the BGA chipset (I assume it's a BGA form factor). The trace goes somewhere. While it could be s completely internal trace, I highly doubt that's the case. Even then there are still ways to get to it.
If the pin is there, there's a way...
Just depends how determined you are and you're skill level. Prototypes and repairs sometimes end up as scrap so you need to accept that reality as well. If you have a blown mobo to experiment and practice with you have nothing to lose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok but this phone costs 300 dollars, why in the world would you even think of doing anything like that lol, but if that's what you want to do then be my guest?
Electimon said:
Ok but this phone costs 300 dollars, why in the world would you even think of doing anything like that lol, but if that's what you want to do then be my guest?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Me? I have N10+'s and not about to risk trashing one as they run very well as is.
The easiest way is to just leave it stock and not be playing Android god
Lol, didn't even look at the price; that makes it easier to eat. On this misadventure we are in agreement... too many "I bricked my phone" threads here.
bj2020 said:
My Edge s bricked several days ago, Technical support said that there is no way to flah it back, except replace the motherboard, but the fees are high enought that you can buy a new one, so i give up, Today I disassembled the phone and tried to find the short test points to enter the EDL mode, But I don’t know which are the test points,Can anyone help look at the attached pictures, thank you.
Friendly reminder, Please don't try to relock phone like I did.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
about your advice do mean locking the bootloader after you unlocked it?
plz anyone plz answer me that my oneplus 9 5g has been hardbricked by me so can i fix it using edl cable??? plz answer as soon as possible.
Thank You.
To original poster: If you get Fastboot mode running which is what it looks like you were able to do, you can recover with the Motorola recovery tool. Otherwise if it shows up only as a serial device you need blankflash which I posted previously in this forum. I have bricked and unbricked my phone many times trying to get LineageOS and other things working on it since it's a little funky as a device swapping A/B stuff a lot on it's own.
Thanks
bj2020 said:
My Edge s bricked several days ago, Technical support said that there is no way to flah it back, except replace the motherboard, but the fees are high enought that you can buy a new one, so i give up, Today I disassembled the phone and tried to find the short test points to enter the EDL mode, But I don’t know which are the test points,Can anyone help look at the attached pictures, thank you.
Friendly reminder, Please don't try to relock phone like I did.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was there ever a solution made on this issue? I have the same problem
FFS, people, If you can get into Fastboot, your device is not bricked. There was absolutely no need to open up the phone and disassemble it. You have to go into Fastboot mode to use the Motrola Rescue and Smart Assistant Tool.

Software or Hardware charging problems?

My Asus Zenfone 5z suddenly stopped fast charging i know its not the charger thats the problem, ive used it on several different phones and it still works. Now comes another problem, when i charge my phone and restart it while plugged in the charging symbol doesnt appear but i know its charging but slowly via ampere app. I need to unplug then plug it again then it shows the charging symbol. My PC's and Laptops cant detect the phone but charges it. I have the bootloadeer unlocked, but when i charge my phone powered off it pops up every few seconds and the LED indicator doesnt light up. I tampered with something then it fast charges all of a sudden, i even moved the phone around to ensure that the charger isnt faulty. Then when i went to go and charge my phone is slowly charges up again.
Any help? Do i just go to a technician? its harder because its lockdown where im from. Is it my charging pin thats faulty??
Maybe cleaning it can help, use isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush or cotton swabs.
XDHx86 said:
Maybe cleaning it can help, use isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush or cotton swabs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I echo what @XDHx86 has stated. At times, your charging port can be clogged up with dirt, lint, dust, etc... Cleaning it might resolve the issue. However, be sure not to use anything but isopropyl alcohol, preferably 70%+ solution.
Could be a charger port (PBC) failure if cleaning doesn't help.
Could also be a battery failure. Check for any signs of battery swelling.
Unlikely it's software.
blackhawk said:
Could be a charger port (PBC) failure if cleaning doesn't help.
Could also be a battery failure. Check for any signs of battery swelling.
Unlikely it's software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no battery swelling, but i might go to a technician and see if they find a problem. As for now im trying everything before going. I did something, forgot what it was but it fast charged then i wiggled my charger around to see if it stops but it didn't. Tried plugging again and again but after a few hours it didn't fast charge again. Anyways what's a PBC failure?????
The charging port is mounted on a seperate printed circuit board in many phones.
blackhawk said:
The charging port is mounted on a seperate printed circuit board in many phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
know any fix? and why does my bootloader warning always pop up every few seconds when i charge my phone powered off?
sweatypeaches said:
know any fix? and why does my bootloader warning always pop up every few seconds when i charge my phone powered off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You replace the port PCB. The port PCB can effect other seemingly unrelated systems when it fails depending on the manufacturer.
What warning? It may be a firmware or hardware issue. Normally the firmware doesn't go corrupt for no reason.
Possible mobo failure.
There's also the possibility of a rootkit infection.
If running on Android 8 this becomes more likely and if so it may need to be reflashed to purge it.
Is there any other kinds of unusual behavior when running?
You need a tech who is very familiar with this make.
sweatypeaches said:
know any fix? and why does my bootloader warning always pop up every few seconds when i charge my phone powered off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You replace the port PCB. The port PCB can effect other seemingly unrelated systems when it fails depending on the manufacturer.
What warning? It may be a firmware or hardware issue. Normally the firmware doesn't go corrupt for no reason.
Possible mobo failure.
There's also the possibility of a rootkit infection.
If running on Android 8 this becomes more likely and if so it may need to be reflashed to purge it.
Is there any other kinds of unusual behavior when running?
You need a tech who is very familiar with this make.
blackhawk said:
You replace the port PCB. The port PCB can effect other seemingly unrelated systems when it fails depending on the manufacturer.
What warning? It may be a firmware or hardware issue. Normally the firmware doesn't go corrupt for no reason.
Possible mobo failure.
There's also the possibility of a rootkit infection.
If running on Android 8 this becomes more likely and if so it may need to be reflashed to purge it.
Is there any other kinds of unusual behavior when running?
You need a tech who is very familiar with this make.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
im running on Android 10. I'm talking about the warning when you power on your phone(image attached) Yes, i have some unusual behavior that's been running for the past few days such as: When i restart my phone when plugged in the LED light turns off when its powered off then turn on during the booting screen, then it will completely off once the phone is open BUT my battery percentage isn't going down. I still see it charging via ampere app. The charging symbol also doesnt show(i need to unplug then plug again for it to show) The phone still charges but very very slow.
blackhawk said:
You replace the port PCB. The port PCB can effect other seemingly unrelated systems when it fails depending on the manufacturer.
What warning? It may be a firmware or hardware issue. Normally the firmware doesn't go corrupt for no reason.
Possible mobo failure.
There's also the possibility of a rootkit infection.
If running on Android 8 this becomes more likely and if so it may need to be reflashed to purge it.
Is there any other kinds of unusual behavior when running?
You need a tech who is very familiar with this make.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and this phone was also given to me with an unlocked bootloader didn't know what it was then but i know now. I probably can fix it if its some software problem with the help of this website as I'm very familiar with PC's. Thanks for the help if ever.
sweatypeaches said:
im running on Android 10. I'm talking about the warning when you power on your phone(image attached) Yes, i have some unusual behavior that's been running for the past few days such as: When i restart my phone when plugged in the LED light turns off when its powered off then turn on during the booting screen, then it will completely off once the phone is open BUT my battery percentage isn't going down. I still see it charging via ampere app. The charging symbol also doesnt show(i need to unplug then plug again for it to show) The phone still charges but very very slow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no expert on this, but is that a normal warning if you unlock the boot loader?
I'm not advising you to lock it as that may cause other issues but doesn't having unlock increase security risks?
In any event if it does have a rootkit* a factory reset should purge it. If it has custom rom, I have zero experience with them.
I don't like using factory reset as it's best to find the root cause instead. In your case it may not help at all if the root cause is hardware. You need to observe the symptoms and use the process of elimination.
This is one of the reasons I run a stock Android, in some respects it simplifies troubleshooting.
* be careful with all downloads especially side loaded apps. Playstore downloads aren't without risk though.
Email downloads are high risk; keep it all in the cloud whenever possible.
Check the download folder regularly for odd behavior and unauthorized downloads.
sweatypeaches said:
and this phone was also given to me with an unlocked bootloader didn't know what it was then but i know now. I probably can fix it if its some software problem with the help of this website as I'm very familiar with PC's. Thanks for the help if ever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome. Sorry I couldn't help you more.
I be very careful about locking the boot loader.
Make sure you know the full implications before doing so.
You might consider flashing it to it's stock rom especially since the boot loader was unlocked when you got it.
Make sure it's functional enough to take a flash though, last thing you need now is to brick it.
If it's a hardware issue this should be corrected first.
blackhawk said:
I'm no expert on this, but is that a normal warning if you unlock the boot loader?
I'm not advising you to lock it as that may cause other issues but doesn't having unlock increase security risks?
In any event if it does have a rootkit* a factory reset should purge it. If it has custom rom, I have zero experience with them.
I don't like using factory reset as it's best to find the root cause instead. In your case it may not help at all if the root cause is hardware. You need to observe the symptoms and use the process of elimination.
This is one of the reasons I run a stock Android, in some respects it simplifies troubleshooting.
* be careful with all downloads especially side loaded apps. Playstore downloads aren't without risk though.
Email downloads are high risk; keep it all in the cloud whenever possible.
Check the download folder regularly for odd behavior and unauthorized downloads.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried factory resetting 2 times to no avail. It's a normal warning sign, its part of the booting process. But if i power off my device then charge it keep popping up every few seconds. Would a custom rom fix this? or do i just go to a technician now? Also for some reason only Type A to C chargers work. Ive tried my sibling's charger that's Type C to C and it doesn't work, but Type A to C works for them. Also my phone charges on my PC but it doesn't detect it despite having my phone on file transfer mode. I'm trying everything as it's hard to go to a technician especially during covid
blackhawk said:
You're welcome. Sorry I couldn't help you more.
I be very careful about locking the boot loader.
Make sure you know the full implications before doing so.
You might consider flashing it to it's stock rom especially since the boot loader was unlocked when you got it.
Make sure it's functional enough to take a flash though, last thing you need now is to brick it.
If it's a hardware issue this should be corrected first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, bricking it would be a bummer. I'm still researching on bootloaders and custom Roms in general. Tips on it would be great tho. And no need to be sorry. And I saw this reply late, I've replied to your previous comment.
sweatypeaches said:
Yeah, bricking it would be a bummer. I'm still researching on bootloaders and custom Roms in general. Tips on it would be great tho. And no need to be sorry. And I saw this reply late, I've replied to your previous comment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The unlocked boot loader is suspicious.
Like I said if it's hardware is stable enough to do a reflash I would. Go with the OEM rom it originally came with for now so you have a known good rom loaded... it will simplify troubleshooting.
Error on the conservative side.
Letting a good experienced tech look it over is the safest route.
Finding one may be difficult. One that's does rooting may be more helpful.
On the PC try accessing it in drive management, try the rescan drives command.
The PC not detecting it maybe a driver issue.
In hardware management try updating or rolling back the driver. Try another port.
Reboot...
Look at Event Viewer for error messages after trying to connect the device.
If it's not the PC it maybe the phone's port PCB has failed.
Inspect the phone port carefully with a good light source and magnification. Look for signs of damage, corrosion or debris.
Try gently cleaning as mentioned with anhydrous (99%) isopropyl alcohol and a soft bristle toothbrush. Allow to dry in a low humidity room before using. Isopropyl alcohol is hygroscopic so it will grab moisture out of the air to some extant plus the cooling tend to do so all well.
A blower bulb or fan helps speed drying.
blackhawk said:
The unlocked boot loader is suspicious.
Like I said if it's hardware is stable enough to do a reflash I would. Go with the OEM rom it originally came with for now so you have a known good rom loaded... it will simplify troubleshooting.
Error on the conservative side.
Letting a good experienced tech look it over is the safest route.
Finding one may be difficult. One that's does rooting may be more helpful.
On the PC try accessing it in drive management, try the rescan drives command.
The PC not detecting it maybe a driver issue.
In hardware management try updating or rolling back the driver. Try another port.
Reboot...
Look at Event Viewer for error messages after trying to connect the device.
If it's not the PC it maybe the phone's port PCB has failed.
Inspect the phone port carefully with a good light source and magnification. Look for signs of damage, corrosion or debris.
Try gently cleaning as mentioned with anhydrous (99%) isopropyl alcohol and a soft bristle toothbrush. Allow to dry in a low humidity room before using. Isopropyl alcohol is hygroscopic so it will grab moisture out of the air to some extant plus the cooling tend to do so all well.
A blower bulb or fan helps speed drying.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks very much, Ill try and do what you said but in the events thats its the port, do i go to the technicians now?
sweatypeaches said:
Thanks very much, Ill try and do what you said but in the events thats its the port, do i go to the technicians now?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If don't have the skillset it be probably the best plan. Ask about experience and pricing upfront.
If you can see the techs working and using ESD mats/wrist straps that's a good sign.
blackhawk said:
If don't have the skillset it be probably the best plan. Ask about experience and pricing upfront.
If you can see the techs working and using ESD mats/wrist straps that's a good sign.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
blackhawk said:
If don't have the skillset it be probably the best plan. Ask about experience and pricing upfront.
If you can see the techs working and using ESD mats/wrist straps that's a good sign.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it looks like this when i restart it by the way. Mind you the Charger is secured. And at the end i unplugged then plugged it again then it charges. I've tried using the phone while charging to see if it stops charging but it doesn't, so i ruled the charger out of the problem. Thanks again.
sweatypeaches said:
it looks like this when i restart it by the way. Mind you the Charger is secured. And at the end i unplugged then plugged it again then it charges. I've tried using the phone while charging to see if it stops charging but it doesn't, so i ruled the charger out of the problem. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You shouldn't need power it off to recharge.
So it won't charge unless powered off?

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