rugby pro loose back cover - General Questions and Answers

I dont see any seal or gasket on the back cover or in the phone should there be one to keep the water out or did mine get left out?
The screw that holds the back cover on seems loose it will turn to unlock in my pocket .if I blow on it hard enough it may turn to unlock.Are all rugby this loose?
I can push down on the back cover near the bottom side and the top side will pop out.Do you think the back cover is defective or are these just that loose ?
It will definitely not keep water out.

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HTC Apache Audiovox PPC6700 LCD / Digitizer Replacement Instructions

All I have right now is this from someone online who said he had the instructions. If anyone has clear outlined pictures to do this, please post it.
Thank you!
"There are additional screws that need to be taken out. You have to pop off the housing on the top that covers the camera and the antenna port. there will be at least 2 more screws there. Then you will carefully have to pop off the back starting at the bottom by where the stylus is and pull that off. There is probably going to be another screw holding the board in place. It has been a few months since i have done this. Then the board comes out and you have 4 more screws these are phillips heads. That will take the back housing off of the front. Then 4 more screws to take the back plate off of the front housing."
Places i've tried to find LCD Digitizer replacement instructions for cracked LCD
The Audiovox PPC-6700 I have has a cracked screen. I got an LCD replacement, but have no detailed instructions on removing the cracked screen. Here are some useful places i've looked at to find the answer to this issue if it helps you:
http://forum.xda-developers.com ... of course why else would I post it here
http://buzzdev.net/component/option...tart,0/index.php?option=com_phorum&Itemid=125
http://forum.brighthand.com
http://www.mobiletechreview.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php
Not the best...but better than nothing....
Here are my own instructions I started... maybe someone else can expand/refine/clean this up. I'm done with this finally. Changing this is possible, but not necessarily easy. There's this tinny like sticker on the OEM LCD in the phone that's a real pain to pull off of the LCD. The pictures are terrible too...sorry...again..something= better than nothing.
In the end, it works...everything except my toggle does not click in like it used to...that's probably because of that rubber piece I did not know about. (A rubber piece fell out when I was taking it apart and I never figured out where it was supposed to go..so if anyone knows where that belongs and how it should be oriented..please post it.)
I took the stylus out.
I took the miniSD plastic blank out/ or miniSD memory card out just in case.
I took the battery cover off.
I took the battery out.
I set the camera lens in between the picture of the flower and the sun in the back.
I took the rubber piece out..there's a little probe looking thing behind it. (Probably was not necessary to take out.)
I took the back camera cover off. (Remove two Philips head screws with a PH0 head.) There are 7 notches holding it in place. [One above sun/flower adjuster, one slightly to the right above the flash hole, one above the rubber piece, one a tiny bit below the rubber piece, 2 on the insides at the bottom of the philips head screws, and one to the right of the speakerphone.]
I took the green circuit board that has camera flash behind the camera cover off. (Pops up off slot after removing one philips head screw.)
I took the camera unit off. (Do not pull up on camera, just pull the green board up off. The camera is sitting there, the board is wired like the camera flash board was plugged in, just pop it off.)
I took the cell phone antenna philips head screw off that is above where the camera was.
I took the 4 torx .050 allen head type size screws out to remove the back plastic cover of the phone off. Be very careful prying this portion apart. There are probably about 14 notches maybe that holds the back plate on. Some say to start trying to pry it apart from the antenna, but I was able to pry it apart from the bottom part of the phone on the antenna side... not where the antenna is. Be extremely careful how you pry this apart. You have to watch out for the speakerphone wires, there is a plug for what I think might be the keyboard and or LCD, the vibrating weight, and the main board itself... you don't want to scratch or sever any of these parts.
I slid the antenna off of the main board. Lift the board and gently pull up and out the black antenna.
I did not take the speakerphone off, but it looks like you have to pull the wire from the board that would still be attached to the back plate. The vibrating weight is also on the backplate.
I took the main board out of the phone. Keep the slider in mind between the IE button and the recorder button on the side of the phone. The black portion on the main board needs to line up with the actual switch you would slide up or down with your thumb on the side of the phone. When pulling the main board out, slide open the keyboard fully/halfway. Watch for a black rubber piece.
I removed the 4 philips head screws that hold the keyboard portion of the phone to the LCD portion of the phone together and lifted them apart. There is a silver/grey tape that you need to pop up the data cable and pull the tape off to completely separate the LCD portion.
I removed the 4 torx screws from behind the LCD screen and carefully took the LCD portion apart.
...ok well it's getting quite annoying to try and write everything I did after this, but it's pretty self explanatory. If it's not, you probably should not be changing your LCD in the first place anyhow. In order to release the LCD ribbon, the plastic piece at the end will need to pop up at an angle..it's kind of like a winch.
Here's a similar phone that gets taken apart if that helps you out in any way.
.........http://www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf
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re
what is the toggle you are refering to? i took mine apart to clean around the screen without any instructions, and everything still works, but the digitizer has had it, where did you get your replacement from?
I got my replacement from eBay. goldelec
The LCD had a weird rainbow thing going on in the center of it, that you can see if you look at it at the right angle and the bottom corner looks bright white when the screen is on for an extensive period of time. Again, it works...better than what I had. I did not get great instructions, but what he sold me worked fine.
The toggle i'm talking about is the button in between the call and hangup buttons on the front face of the phone. That toggle switch just does not seem connected or stiff like it used to be. I can't "click" up/down/left/right or select anything. I am convinced the rubber piece goes behind it somewhere somehow. I just have to take it apart and figure out the orientation of it.
thanks for these pics & instructions, I just replaced with a part from goldelec on ebay as well (though the auction list instructions as part of the deal, they didn't come with my shipment, so your play-by-play was invaluable)...and there's no screws left afterward! Always a good sign.
Maybe this will help some people...
http://wiki.ppcgeeks.com/index.php?title=How_To:Disassemble_your_6700
lcd replacement instructions
www.htclcd.com has a lot of good lcd replacement instructions also
as well as the LCD's
I just took apart two 6700's today (had to replace the buttons on the face and the circuit board underneath so for now I scavenged the parts from my backup phone)
anyway the phone is surprisingly easy to take apart and surprisingly straight forward.
You do not even have to organize the screws as there is ONLY 2 kinds (I like that) and its obvious when to use each as they are very different in size.
a straight head will take out the star bits if your careful (if you have one of those many different jewlers drivers kits you will find one that fits just fine)
OK cover card stylus battery out.
4 screws. 2 dark large at the bottom 2 small silver at the top of the battery cavity (the one on the top right is hidden underneath a small white sticker)
Now the "top" plastic section comes apart. (the area with the camera) make sure the camera switch is ALL THE WAY one way first it will make things easier later.
Lift from the bottom LEFT there is a tab under the black antennae casing and a tab on the right next to the speaker. Pry gently and it will "pop free" don't YANK as the speaker is attached still.
Pop the speaker out (leave it attached no reason to mess with that wee connector.)
Remove the single screw from the center of those board. NOW caution there is a square white soft "seal" around the led do not lose it.
finger tail "pop" the boards out.
Camera module same thing finger nail "pop" the module pops out but those asside.
3 more larger dark screws remove them now.
Now you need to remove the back half the the shell. Lift with force till you have a small opening and start poking at the hold downs till you can work it free. the hang point is again the black antennae housing. This was the most difficult part to remove and it was not that hard. Use care so it will look clean when you put it back together if thats important to you.
Now you see the mother board. one single screw is left silver middle right side (away from antennae)
Time to remove the main board. you need to use CARE here as its "catched" on opposing side (the usb port and ear piece ports) and the Black antenna housing.) and also atached via a short ribbon cable.
Once you have it free SLIDE out the keyboard this will give you a lot more slack to lift up the main board and tilt it sideways.
Peel the tape carefully once its free it will "pop" free using the same style connector as the camera board etc.. used.
remove and put asside.
now remove the 4 screws holding the keyboard to the phone. its free put asside (those are the only 4 that are different just LEAVE them in there holes they will stay if you don't toss it around)
now remove the 4 black screws holding the back of the keyboard housing down. Pop it free (its not hard there are poke holes made for this like flat screwdriver slots)
once you do this the ribbon will slide through the opening no worries.
now act like your breaking a glow stick and "bend" the case sides so the screen can be popped up a little.
lift the orange tape and you will see a different kind of rubbon connector. its white with a tiny black flap. use a finger nail and lift it will ROTATE 90's to vertical. the ribbon cable will now pop free.
now remove the 2 screws holding down the circuit board. remove it and the button pad (this is why you had to lift the screen a little or these won't come out.
Thats it. I did not go further than this but I do not remember it "looking" like it would be hard at all to get the screen and digitizer out.
This is all straight from memory so read ALL this first and adapt as you progress. DO not take it verbatum.
If something does not want to give ASSUME you forgot a screw and be extra diligent to find it before attempting to increase the amount of force you use though sometimes it just "needs" a wee more force.
Good Luck
I should have taken pics which I usually do when I do this again I will take detailed pics.
Ohh dolt reassembly
do everything in reverse. thats it. here are some tips for the tricky spots.
Reinserting the button pad ribbon. IE reconnect the ribbon BEFORE you put it in. its a lot easier. make sure its in all the way push the flap back down push the tape back down. Easy
Rescrewing the keyboard into the main shell. Get it roughly lined up and LOOK INSIDE one of the holes as you wiggle it around. you will see the screw hole quite clearly when it appears. insert and screw down. Do one on the other side easy as pie.
When you put the main board back in you need to make sure the VOLUME slide switch is in the MIDDLE neutral position so it it lines up with the volume slider itself IE it has to move BOTH direction misalign this and it will be jammed one way or the other. Pop it apart and try again.
When you put the final cover back on make sure the SWITCH for the camera is in the same direction as the plastic lever (the actual switch) so that they line up when you snap them together.
thats it. Really not that hard.

How to improve fit of back cover

I recently bough the extended battery pack (HTC BP E270) and I am satisfied with the new look and feel of the phone, not to mention the improved up time. One very disappointing thing however, is that the new back cover comes off very easily. Simply pulling the phone out of my pocket makes the cover fall off.
The cover is not broken in any way.
Is there a way to make the cover fit tighter so that it doesn't accidentally fall off.
Put glue under it or something I got the same problem as you, backcover to my 1800 mAh is very plastic and the bottom is not fully pressed onto the phone or what should I say.
Thanks Artie. I would however, like to be able to change the cover for the slimmer one at certain occasions. How do you remove the cover if you glued it onto the phone?
Gripenstedt said:
Thanks Artie. I would however, like to be able to change the cover for the slimmer one at certain occasions. How do you remove the cover if you glued it onto the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use double sided tape.
actually, some ordinary transparent tape might be enough to do the trick.
i don't have an extended battery myself so i don't know why exactly it doesn't fit properly, but maybe you can tighten the hold a little at some places by putting some tape on your phone near where the cover holds onto your phone.
Back Cover
blue tac my friends just a small bit in hte right place
Back Cover
blue tac my friends just a small bit in the right place
I have the same original HTC extended battery, It fits right but comes off very easy.
What is blue tac? And where to apply it?
i have the same problem...i think that double sided tape is the best way to resolve this problem...i'll try
p.brazauskas said:
What is blue tac? And where to apply it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bostic-Blue-T...y_CA?hash=item3ca579e18f&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
...or bubble-gum, if you're stingy
(i already broke one of the corner bits because of the constant slip-off)

[Q] for those still interested in disassembly

There are two screws on the bottom of the Tf by the charging port. Then on the back there are clips all around the outer edge of the "Asus" panel. Use any non marring tool for the clips. Once all the clips are loose, the bezel around the screen comes off frome the front. It seems to bemostly plastic with a metal overlay. Then there are ten or eleven philips screws that hold the rear panel on.
Sorry no pics
So the metal bezel comes off first then followed by the plastic back panel which is held in by screws?
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
Thats correct. You can see the screws for the back after the bezel is removed.
The metal around the edge is seprate from the back plastic and the front glass. However the metal is extreemly thin and WILL bend with any kind of proping. Also once u remove it getting dust under the glass is going to happen. Also the plastic clips are very ****ty and if one bends or brakes the transformer will not click back on. Its not worth opening this thing up. If u have a issue with your unit call asus and have them fix or return to store.
cowballz69 said:
The metal around the edge is seprate from the back plastic and the front glass. However the metal is extreemly thin and WILL bend with any kind of proping. Also once u remove it getting dust under the glass is going to happen. Also the plastic clips are very ****ty and if one bends or brakes the transformer will not click back on. Its not worth opening this thing up. If u have a issue with your unit call asus and have them fix or return to store.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks to everyone who posted this information!
The only thing that bothers me about the TF is the creaking, so I was thinking about fabricating some pieces to upgrade or replace the back, bezel, or both.
couple of questions for you...
--Were you able to determine exactly where the creaking comes from? Is it just the flimsiness of the back panel or the way it all mounts together?
--Also, you mentioned dust getting under the screen after reassembling- so the glass is a completely separate component? How does it attach to the rest of the unit?
--Finally, are there any warranty/tamper seals that get broken during dissassembly?
Thanks again!
I didn't go any further than removing the bezel out of fear that I would break something or not be able to get it back together. I didn't get any dust under my screen and there wasn't a single tamper seal that i saw

screws to replace screen stuck

So i ordered a replacement screen/bezel and it came with no tools. I used a tinny screw driver my friend had and got 2 of the screws off holding it together but the other ones are stuck so tight the screw driver metal broke while trying to get enough pressure to loosen them. They are starting to strip because they are stuck is there anything i can do to get them to loosen the grip they have? i need to get them off and fix this freakin thing.
Are you positive you're using the proper size screwdriver? I've replaced the screen in both mine and my wife's phones, and they were never that tight
Sent from my -P999 using xda premium
Yes you cant get any smaller than the size i used they just wont loosen up. They are tight enough that the screws are stripping there is no give even when applying downward pressure while turning thats why the small screwdriver broke. Almost feels as if they are fuzed in.
Will heating it up with a blow dryer loosen the plastic enough to get the screws out? or will the heat cause damage to the phone.
thegoochking said:
Will heating it up with a blow dryer loosen the plastic enough to get the screws out? or will the heat cause damage to the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heating will expand everything and make it more difficult. Using a hair/blow dryer is taking too much risk.
You should take the phone to a home depot or other store which sells high quality screw drivers, such as hardened tip jeweller's screw drivers, and get one of the correct/exact size. The jeweller's screw drivers can be pressed down with the palm of one hand while the driver's bit is rotated with the other one by turning the screwdriver's shaft. A pair of pliers can be use to turn the shaft which will give more torque to, hopefully, break loose the screw. Additionally, you could carefully spray the screw head and immediate area with compressed air until it is really cold. The cold will shrink the screw and the surrounding area slightly, maybe enough to enable you to unscrew.
Here's some info: http://ask.metafilter.com/191476/How-to-Remove-Stubborn-Laptop-Screws

[Q] My nexus 4 cam lense popped out.

This morning i found a small plastic square with rounded corners on the floor. Could not for the life of me fugure out what it was. So i put it bit and pieces box. Next thing u know. I was using my phone when i felt an unusual indentation on the back of the phone when answering it.
"Ding". So now how do i get it back on. On close observation it looks like some of the tiny adhesive strip is still on the lense whilst some on the inside of the rim. Tried to re-sit it back but it just falls back out. Dont think i will try glue. I may botch it blurring the lense with my fat uncordinated fingers. So pls any suggestions?

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