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[Q] Charger Question

So, I've been wondering this for a while and thought I just ask. I've read about stories where people bought 3rd party chargers and had their phone malfunction. Because of this I have been worried about using any other type of charger and stick with the stock. Would it be fine to charge my Nexus 5 which a more powerful charger. For example the Nexus 7 charger? There's also a few other 3rd party chargers which seem to be much more powerful, but I was just worried that it would cause problems for the phone. Thanks in advance!

I've got a ton of Chargers laying around and they all work just fine. As long as the charger output is 5 volts you should be okay.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

0dBu said:
I've got a ton of Chargers laying around and they all work just fine. As long as the charger output is 5 volts you should be okay.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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Exactly 5 volts? The Nexus 7 charger is 5.2

PsychDrummer said:
Exactly 5 volts? The Nexus 7 charger is 5.2
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It should probably be fine. I used my Mom's Nook charger at her house the other day with no issues.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

0dBu said:
It should probably be fine. I used my Mom's Nook charger at her house the other day with no issues.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Dual-Po...5839252&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+usb+car+charger
So this one is apparently 18V...says should work though. Weird.

PsychDrummer said:
http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Dual-Po...5839252&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+usb+car+charger
So this one is apparently 18V...says should work though. Weird.
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the charger that you linked to is 18 W (aka Watts), but it is still 5V. it has a max output of 3.6A (amp). Watts = Volts x Amps.
As long as it's 5V, you should be fine. using a charger with a higher max A rating won't change anything, how much current that is actually drawn (amps) depends on the device.

jss2 said:
the charger that you linked to is 18 W (aka Watts), but it is still 5V. it has a max output of 3.6A (amp). Watts = Volts x Amps.
As long as it's 5V, you should be fine. using a charger with a higher max A rating won't change anything, how much current that is actually drawn (amps) depends on the device.
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Oh I see. Thanks!

Okay, quick electrical lesson.
Volts: This one is relatively fixed at 5 for all "USB-Powered" devices. However, virtually all electrical devices have a 10% allowable variance. So... anything from 4.5V to 5.5V should work just fine, and be considered "safe." Of course, this can be tricky since some less-than-trustworthy manufacturers (*cough*China*cough*) will include the 10% variance in the specs. So... a charger rated for 5.5V charger may actually be running at 5.8V, which is within the 10% variance for a 5.5V device, and since 5.5V is within the variance for the 5V spec, they'll just double-down, and stamp it with 5V, which is bad. Confused? Yeah, me too. Just stay away from those cheap eBay chargers, to avoid such shenanigans.
Amps (aka Current): The thing to remember here is that the draw is king. What I mean here is that the device drawing power is what's important. If your device draws 1A, then it will ALWAYS draw 1A, no matter if it's plugged into a 1A, 5A, or 1000A charger. However, it will also attempt to draw 1A if it's plugged into a 0.2A charger, which would obviously be very bad (well, unless you're TRYING to start a fire). USB devices are designed to draw 0.5A, since that's what USB 2.0 (on a computer) provides. However, many devices can draw more if plugged into a wall charger. So... you're almost always safe plugging into a computer, but your wall charger needs to be rated AT LEAST what the device expects. That can be hard to determine, so the rule of thumb is that whatever Amperage charger the device came with is the MINIMUM amperage charger you should use. However, there is no maximum, since draw is king, so go nuts in the other direction.
Watts (aka Power): Power = Voltage x Current, so Watts is nothing more than Voltage times Amperage. Thus, a 5V charger charging at 2A is 10W (5x2=10). Now that you know this, you can ignore it. Nobody but the electric company cares how many Watts your wall charger is pushing. The only, and I mean only, thing this is good for is determining the Amperage if the manufacturer doesn't provide it. So... if the only spec listed for your micro-USB charger is 12W, then you can figure out the amperage by dividing that by 5 (since all USB devices are 5V). Your 12W charger, therefore, is pushing 2.2A. See the section on Amps, since that's what's really important.

jt3 said:
Okay, quick electrical lesson.
Volts: This one is relatively fixed at 5 for all "USB-Powered" devices. However, virtually all electrical devices have a 10% allowable variance. So... anything from 4.5V to 5.5V should work just fine, and be considered "safe." Of course, this can be tricky since some less-than-trustworthy manufacturers (*cough*China*cough*) will include the 10% variance in the specs. So... a charger rated for 5.5V charger may actually be running at 5.8V, which is within the 10% variance for a 5.5V device, and since 5.5V is within the variance for the 5V spec, they'll just double-down, and stamp it with 5V, which is bad. Confused? Yeah, me too. Just stay away from those cheap eBay chargers, to avoid such shenanigans.
Amps (aka Current): The thing to remember here is that the draw is king. What I mean here is that the device drawing power is what's important. If your device draws 1A, then it will ALWAYS draw 1A, no matter if it's plugged into a 1A, 5A, or 1000A charger. However, it will also attempt to draw 1A if it's plugged into a 0.2A charger, which would obviously be very bad (well, unless you're TRYING to start a fire). USB devices are designed to draw 0.5A, since that's what USB 2.0 (on a computer) provides. However, many devices can draw more if plugged into a wall charger. So... you're almost always safe plugging into a computer, but your wall charger needs to be rated AT LEAST what the device expects. That can be hard to determine, so the rule of thumb is that whatever Amperage charger the device came with is the MINIMUM amperage charger you should use. However, there is no maximum, since draw is king, so go nuts in the other direction.
Watts (aka Power): Power = Voltage x Current, so Watts is nothing more than Voltage times Amperage. Thus, a 5V charger charging at 2A is 10W (5x2=10). Now that you know this, you can ignore it. Nobody but the electric company cares how many Watts your wall charger is pushing. The only, and I mean only, thing this is good for is determining the Amperage if the manufacturer doesn't provide it. So... if the only spec listed for your micro-USB charger is 12W, then you can figure out the amperage by dividing that by 5 (since all USB devices are 5V). Your 12W charger, therefore, is pushing 2.2A. See the section on Amps, since that's what's really important.
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I've plugged my device into chargers before that have rated outputs of .5A-1A when the device "expects" more... so, why didn't it start a fire?

Nitemare3219 said:
I've plugged my device into chargers before that have rated outputs of .5A-1A when the device "expects" more... so, why didn't it start a fire?
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How much "more" are you talking about?

طوني تبولة said:
How much "more" are you talking about?
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The stock charger is 1.2A, correct? So given that much... a charger I have used a few times on my Nexus 4 and 5 at a friend's place only outputs .5A... so at least .7A from what our phones should be able to draw.

Nitemare3219 said:
The stock charger is 1.2A, correct? So given that much... a charger I have used a few times on my Nexus 4 and 5 at a friend's place only outputs .5A... so at least .7A from what our phones should be able to draw.
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An Android device knows that it's plugged into a wall charger, and thus can use more than 0.5A, only if the data pins are shorted together. Otherwise, it will assume it's plugged into a computer and only use 0.5A. Chargers made for android devices are usually so equipped. Apple chargers and some cheap-o chargers aren't. That's one reason why you'll see chargers with nothing more than a USB slot (no cable) specify that they're only compatible with Apple devices. Technically, they're compatible with any USB device, but not at the high charge rate.
Having said that, manufacturers can build in some safeguards. Quality chargers simply won't output more current than they're designed for. How they go about this varies. They may limit the output to their rated specs, they may blow an external breaker, or they may blow an internal fuse (usually killing the charger forever). Cheap chargers may not have such safeguards. Plus, many (if not most) phones/tablets will recognize when they're hooked up to a low-current source, and automatically switch to the low charge rate mode (0.5A).
In short, quality equipment is usually designed to be safe, with safeguards to protect against common scenarios. It's the cheap chargers that you have to worry about, because they tend to cut corners to keep the cost down. Safety provisions aren't technically necessary, and are usually the first to go.

[Q] sm-p905 Charging with non genuine charger

Gday All,
I realise that this topic has been mentioned in a few threads, but from what I could find, there is no definiteve fix.
Is there a way to disable this so that a non-genuine charger will work once the screen turns off, or if I was to root the device, is there then a way to do it.
Please dont flame me, I'm a total newb to android, and I dont mind admitting that.
Bit dissapointed that Samsung has sunk to this.
TIA!

Not sure what issues you are having but I have been using a few different chargers without issue. Which exact charging method are you trying to use (cable type, charger type, charger rated output voltage and amperage)?
Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk

The problem isn't that the charger is 3rd party.
The problem is that the device requires a 5.1V 2A charger or higher.
Anything lower than that is simply not powerful enough. You can find these specs in small lettering on the charger. Most cheap 3rd party launchers are 5V 1A.

CrazyManR32 said:
Gday All,
I realise that this topic has been mentioned in a few threads, but from what I could find, there is no definiteve fix.
Is there a way to disable this so that a non-genuine charger will work once the screen turns off, or if I was to root the device, is there then a way to do it.
Please dont flame me, I'm a total newb to android, and I dont mind admitting that.
Bit dissapointed that Samsung has sunk to this.
TIA!
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Click to collapse
I was one of the ones having problems with it needing to have the screen on to charge. It was a problem with the charger (yes, it was marked as a high amperage charger), changed to a different one (Anker 40W 5 port) and it's working fine.

ericbergan said:
I was one of the ones having problems with it needing to have the screen on to charge. It was a problem with the charger (yes, it was marked as a high amperage charger), changed to a different one (Anker 40W 5 port) and it's working fine.
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Huge second on the Anker. I love that charger by the way. With various devices I would get irritated with some refusing to charge on certain chargers (my BlackBerry Bold in particular). I've since switched to the Anker 5 port 40 Watt and no longer worry about which cable I'm reaching for. Every device gets the power it needs with no fuss.

muzzy996 said:
Not sure what issues you are having but I have been using a few different chargers without issue. Which exact charging method are you trying to use (cable type, charger type, charger rated output voltage and amperage)?
Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk
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Initially i was using a belkin 2 port, 2.1amp per port charger, which would start charging but stop once the screen was off.
ShadowLea said:
The problem isn't that the charger is 3rd party.
The problem is that the device requires a 5.1V 2A charger or higher.
Anything lower than that is simply not powerful enough. You can find these specs in small lettering on the charger. Most cheap 3rd party launchers are 5V 1A.
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This seems logical, but it does work when i use the genuine charger from my sgs3 which is a 5vdc 1a charger. Takes all night to charge, but charges non the less.
ericbergan said:
I was one of the ones having problems with it needing to have the screen on to charge. It was a problem with the charger (yes, it was marked as a high amperage charger), changed to a different one (Anker 40W 5 port) and it's working fine.
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Thanks for the info mate, ill see if i can get hold of one of these in australia, that being said, it appears that these are also 5v rather then the 5.3?

CrazyManR32 said:
This seems logical, but it does work when i use the genuine charger from my sgs3 which is a 5vdc 1a charger. Takes all night to charge, but charges non the less.
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That's because the retention rate of the S3's charger is higher than that of a generic cheap 3rd party one. Where the S3 charger actually delivers 0.8-1A, the cheaper ones usually average around 0.5A.
This is why charging over a usb 2.0 port without any power boosts also (usually, there have been some exceptions) doesn't work.
I usually charge mine with my Note 3 or S5 charger, as the three are all the same charger.

Need specific Car charger if anyone can help

I'm looking for a Car charger that can fast charge the V10 and also had a 1 amp output. Has anyone seen anything like this? All the dual car chargers I have seen that offer QC 2.0 have a second port that is 2 amps. I want to charge my phone and power my electronic cigarette that gets hot when using a 2 amp output.
Thanks

Get this one. Very good. Quick charge 2.0 on one then the other slot provides 2.4amp output for universal any device and even tablet could charge off it as well.

wadamean said:
Get this one. Very good. Quick charge 2.0 on one then the other slot provides 2.4amp output for universal any device and even tablet could charge off it as well.
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Did you read what I wrote? I specifically need one with a low amp second output as my electronic cigarette will not tolerate two amps.

robl45 said:
Did you read what I wrote? I specifically need one with a low amp second output as my electronic cigarette will not tolerate two amps.
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Reason why I posted it, having read very well the op, I was having same issue and got this one which surprisingly works in my car.

I have the same one and it works without any problems. Perhaps you (OP) could reply in a better way instead of being snippy, he really did give you a good suggestion of what to get.
Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

wadamean said:
Get this one. Very good. Quick charge 2.0 on one then the other slot provides 2.4amp output for universal any device and even tablet could charge off it as well.
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howdyace said:
I have the same one and it works without any problems. Perhaps you (OP) could reply in a better way instead of being snippy, he really did give you a good suggestion of what to get.
Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
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I'm sure it does work great, but i posted because I have a specific need and was hoping someone might know of a charger that could fill that need.

You won't find one. If it has QC , it will output more then 1a.
Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Look at Anker products, I have their "smart" charger. It adjusts to what is needed and supports quick change.

Regardless of smart or not, the device requiring the power will dictate how much amperage it draws unless charger or device is faulty up to the maximum available via the charger. Perhaps your ecig is very basic and is really meant to be used with a pc usb that doesn't supply more than 500mA and doesn't have the ic circuitry to cut and control it's own intake..
Like it has been mentioned for a charger to supply qc 2.0 it has to be rated at 1.8mA minimum, so most will be 2mA~
I spend a lot of time looking at chargers and havent seen any single that meets your requirements. I'd suggest getting a socket splitter and using two small chargers. One older 500-900mA and another qc 2.0.

get this one... 2.1 and 1A ports..

I wouldn't recommend anything but the cars port for the cig lighter.
Reason is, anything else that you plug that lighter into will be made partially out of plastic and will more than likely melt as the lighter heats up.

OP needs a lower output ( 1 Amp-500mA) to charge an electronic cigarette/vape mod and is not using the actual cigarette lighter. Honestly I would just advise that you remove the battery from your mod to charge because typically when mods fail it is either because a battery is being over-discharged (user error or mechanical short) or the IC circuitry fails causing the battery to vent. Charging your IMR batts in a dedicated charger tends to promote better daily use and overall extended life cycle. If you are still limited to keeping the battery installed in your mod while charging, is QC absolutely necessary? I personally have not ran into an issue topping off using a standard charger while driving.
EDIT: I thought the flux capacitor was a joke but looked it up and it actually fits your needs..
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Charging currents

How would I know what the max current is a device can support like an accessory? So for example, the stock charger that comes with the Plantronics Voyager Edge is only 500ma. What happens if I plug it into a Qualcomm QuickCharge 2.0 charger like what comes with the S6? Will it blow up? Regulate down and charge normally? Charge rapidly?

km8j said:
How would I know what the max current is a device can support like an accessory? So for example, the stock charger that comes with the Plantronics Voyager Edge is only 500ma. What happens if I plug it into a Qualcomm QuickCharge 2.0 charger like what comes with the S6? Will it blow up? Regulate down and charge normally? Charge rapidly?
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it will charge normally. it doesnt matter how big the output of the charger is. the phone will regulate it to only what it wants.
only time you will have an issue is if your charger output is too small. the phone will charge slow, and risk damage to the charger.

bweN diorD said:
it will charge normally. it doesnt matter how big the output of the charger is. the phone will regulate it to only what it wants.
only time you will have an issue is if your charger output is too small. the phone will charge slow, and risk damage to the charger.
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Does this also apply to the headset I mentioned? How would the current being too low damage the charger? USB ports and car charger are very low current in general
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

km8j said:
Does this also apply to the headset I mentioned? How would the current being too low damage the charger? USB ports and car charger are very low current in general
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
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1. yes
2. i didnt say it would damage the charger, i said there is a risk of it. thats because if its too small, the charger is working at maximum all the time.
3. usb's are regulated, not maxing out potential. im guessing car chargers do the same, however im not sure why. likely has something to do with a safe level considering the fluctuation in input voltage from the battery.

Hmm... So what about using a non-QC 2.0 charger (such as some that Anker make) on devices that support QC 2.0? Is there some safety issue or will it just charge slightly slower?

km8j said:
Hmm... So what about using a non-QC 2.0 charger (such as some that Anker make) on devices that support QC 2.0? Is there some safety issue or will it just charge slightly slower?
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sorry, i dont know about those.
maybe you misunderstood before, i cant think of any common instance where there would be a safety issue.
as unlikely as it is that you will ever burn up a charger (or device for that matter), the only thing that will happen is some small electronic parts will go bad. not some huge fire or whatever. sure on the device there could be a nice exploding fire, but there about always from defect and also extremely rare. it happens maybe 1 or 2 times a year, and its gets posted everywhere, then people think its an epidemic and start asking all these unnecessary questions. im sure the yearly device sales are in the hundreds of millions work wide. if a couple a year blow up, well s happens.

Warp charger advice

Can anyone let me know the risks, if any, of using the OP7 pro warp charger with other devices? I live in the UK if the voltage in matters.
I wanted to have one charger to charge my OP7pro, Sabatt e12 earphones and Nintendo Switch (undocked).
Anything I should think of? I don't know anything about voltages or fast charging. The headphones say to use a charger that is 5v/1a or "risk damaging".
Can anyone advise?
Thanks

Warp charge is 5v/6a, but whatever device you are charging should limit the voltage and amps. But ultimately yes you could damage your earphones.

It depends. Like Konfuzion has said, every device should have overvoltage protection or something, even earbuds. But it will be better (more safe) to use regular 5V/1A charger instead your Warp charger.

If your device use 5V as a power source, there shouldn't be any problem to use the Warp Charger. I've already used it to charge a Nintendo 2DS and Bluetooth devices and it charges normally, because is the device who control the power consumption (and therefore, the current)

Thanks. I figured because the instructions of the earbuds were specific that it might be a bigger risk.
Thanks. Appreciate the replies. Can I get any cables that would limit the charge? I ask because it would be easier to carry two cables and one plug than 2 plugs. Sorry if that is a stupid question. I know nothing about voltages and fast charging...which should be obvious by now ?

thetonyclifton said:
Can anyone let me know the risks, if any, of using the OP7 pro warp charger with other devices? I live in the UK if the voltage in matters.
I wanted to have one charger to charge my OP7pro, Sabatt e12 earphones and Nintendo Switch (undocked).
Anything I should think of? I don't know anything about voltages or fast charging. The headphones say to use a charger that is 5v/1a or "risk damaging".
Can anyone advise?
Thanks
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The old dash chargers I believe had some technology that negotiated with the phone before it put out the full amps, I'm pretty sure the warp chargers/cables have that too. When you plug your phone in, you will notice it doesn't warp charge immediately, it charges normally for a second then warp charges, so any device plugged in that can't negotiate with the charger should cap out at 2a,which is where the device your charging's protection comes in. You should be fine
Edit: be careful with your switch though, they are known to brick with 3rd party charges (google/youtube that) but it might have just been crappy 3rd party chargers, I don't have a switch to test

thetonyclifton said:
Thanks. I figured because the instructions of the earbuds were specific that it might be a bigger risk.
Thanks. Appreciate the replies. Can I get any cables that would limit the charge? I ask because it would be easier to carry two cables and one plug than 2 plugs. Sorry if that is a stupid question. I know nothing about voltages and fast charging...which should be obvious by now
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Actually, no. If you use a crappy cable, you could get (at least) the cable on fire (It won't happen, but technically is posible if you made your own cable with a very very thin conductor).
As I said before, is the device who limit the current at charging. In the case of the dash/warp charger, the cable has "a little extra" that allow the high current, and that is why you can't use any cable to get the dash/warp experience (if you want more info, read https://www.reddit.com/r/oneplus/comments/928iqn/whats_the_difference_between_dash_charge_cables/ )