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Good video for Inspire 4G screen replacement?

Has anyone seen a good take apart/repair guide for the Inspire4G. Just got digitizer replacement and cannot for the life of me figure out how to attach the ribbon cable without totally disassembling the phone. Hoping to avoid this.
If this is the wrong forum, please direct me to a better one rather than flaming me.
Thanks

Fairly certain that ifixit.com has a good teardown.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App

Thanks for the tip, but I find nothing for the DesireHD/Inspire4G there other than a total disassemble for the HD that I've already seen, but really did not help me. I just need to change to touch screen. I appreciate the try though.

Got it apart. And kinda back together. Apparently it is not a good idea to reuse the double sided tape that holds the LCD to the motherboard and the digitizer to the LCD. At least the phone works. Now, must order some proper adhesive tape and redo the whole thing.... Took me about 6 hours for whole breakdown and rebuild. Doesn't really seem to fit back together all that well though. Maybe I'll videotape my next breakdown.

Couple of questions as my phone is in need of a new digitizer too.
Did you have any other adhesive tapes in the process?
What did you use to cut the tape that held the LCD together after you baked it?
Does the phone mostly feel the same now that you have it back together, or does it feel flimsy now?
I'm disappointed that it's this difficult to replace the digitizer.

Jeffsmashkot said:
Couple of questions as my phone is in need of a new digitizer too.
Did you have any other adhesive tapes in the process?
What did you use to cut the tape that held the LCD together after you baked it?
Does the phone mostly feel the same now that you have it back together, or does it feel flimsy now?
I'm disappointed that it's this difficult to replace the digitizer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just so you know, I was a TOTAL noob in phone deconstruction. That being said, the old adhesive seemed quite sticky after i took it apart so I just reused it. Mistake number one. Once it was back together, i notice it slowly opening up like an accordion. The tape wasn't holding and the LCD, digitizer assembly started to rise up. I have since ordered some adhesive tape from the place I got the digitizer from. Definitely get the tape.
I did not bake it as in the video (i assume you watched the same one I did). I used an old spark plug gauge tool thingie to just cut through the tape. It was still really sticky so after i struggled to insert the digitizer ribbon cable, I just reused it. Don't do this. Get new tape.
I did have some plain old scotch double sided tape. I used it in one spot. Lesson: Don't use this stuff. Get new tape.
Did I mention that I think you should get new tape? All in all, it was quite laborious. I went really slowly so as not to brick it. When it was done the phone worked, but like I said the LCD raised up after a couple of minutes. The adhesive was not working anymore. At least I have gained confidence for the next take-apart. I can't believe i GOTTA go alll the way back to total break down. Aaaarrrgh.

So something like this should do the trick?
http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-sae-metric-feeler-gauge-32214.html
Thanks for the heads up... Where exactly do you recommend putting the tape? Does it just go on the black edges of the digitizer, or does it actually go on the surface of the LCD? Sorry if that's a noob question, but I haven't gotten the glass off and I want to make sure I have enough adhesive tape from the Ebay Vendor. Did you have any issues with reusing the mylar?
Sorry for the 1000 questions, I really don't want to shell out off contract prices for another phone...

Mylars were all reusable if removed carefully. I photographed every step so I would know what to put back where. Still waiting for my tape from Repairs Universe. The biggest two culprits are:
1] Tape holding back of LCD to the silver chassis frame and
2] Tape holding SIM FPC to the main board.
You might also tape the PCB cover to the upper board, mine was loose after rebuild.
That I believe that is it for the major tape requirements. Of course the digitizer needs to be taped to the LCD. I'm curious, though, the tape framing the LCD holding the digitizer seemed to have some thickness to it. Almost like foam rubber, quite thin, but thicker than regular cellophane tape.
Good luck. Let me know if you have any tips after your attempt.

Got the tape. Retried to rebuild with new OEM tape. Same result. The phone when completed expands like an accordion. The digitizer/LCD assembly does not stay stick to whatever is under it. I know when to admit defeat. Looks like I'm shelling out 500 for another phone. At least I have spare parts!

yeah i was going to do my screen myself till i seen the tear down & then called afew places around here that does screen replacements and said NO we won't touch the Inspire, i spent the money and let HTC fix it. was worth it they replaced the whole shell not just the screen ... IE lcd / digitizer / Outer case that was scratched and dented... basically a new phone with the guts out of my phone

I attempted to do this and let me just say that I too now have spare parts. I purchased a phone off of ebay. I didn't realize the no contract price went up to around 500.00 I should have gone directly to HTC. Live and learn...

I will be in possession of an HTC Inspire for testing purposes that also has a cracked screen. Not sure how bad it is but I was planning on just replacing the display for learning purposes. However it seems that it may not be worth the time spent.
If I do decide to give it a go I'll post my results here. First thing is to acquire new tape. Did you all purchase it locally or did you buy the adhesive online?

YouTube has lots of videos. Best to watch a few a see the best way. If you are scared to break it best you send it in for repair instead. Get a digitizer and screen combo.

[Q] Can LCD digitizer be separated from glass?

The screen on my Skyrocket became recently cracked. The cracks begin at the very top and make really small, tight cracks, then it spiderwebs down the front of the phone into bigger pieces of glass. Towards the top, the smaller pieces of glass have begun to fall out. It's not really dangerous, but I am kinda nervous of cutting my finger one of these times.
I've been searching on Google and Youtube to find an answer to my question, but I can't seem to find a real, definitive answer. I want to know if the glass/lens of the digitizer can be safely removed from the rest of the digitizer?
I know all the tricks of using a heat gun, and a little scraper, but I also heard that the digitizer itself is like 1mm thick and VERY delicate?
So I went ahead and bought the glass off of Ebay for like $7. Then I received the glass in the mail, and got kinda apprehensive of doing it.
Another question: If I successfully remove all the old glass, how do I secure the new lens to the digitizer? Is there some sort of glue I need, or is it friction from the chrome trim ring?

Yupp i think it can be done
Sent from my Renovate HTC

Afrojoe said:
Yupp i think it can be done
Sent from my Renovate HTC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Damn. You got that research and stuff?

demonblod said:
The screen on my Skyrocket became recently cracked. The cracks begin at the very top and make really small, tight cracks, then it spiderwebs down the front of the phone into bigger pieces of glass. Towards the top, the smaller pieces of glass have begun to fall out. It's not really dangerous, but I am kinda nervous of cutting my finger one of these times.
I've been searching on Google and Youtube to find an answer to my question, but I can't seem to find a real, definitive answer. I want to know if the glass/lens of the digitizer can be safely removed from the rest of the digitizer?
I know all the tricks of using a heat gun, and a little scraper, but I also heard that the digitizer itself is like 1mm thick and VERY delicate?
So I went ahead and bought the glass off of Ebay for like $7. Then I received the glass in the mail, and got kinda apprehensive of doing it.
Another question: If I successfully remove all the old glass, how do I secure the new lens to the digitizer? Is there some sort of glue I need, or is it friction from the chrome trim ring?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good luck man.....i tried and its a PITA!!!! Haha my dumbass ended up cracking my digitizer/LCD so i had to shell out another $130 for a new one......i hope u have better luck than me tho.....
Sent from my SGH-I727 using xda app-developers app

jyazzie110 said:
Good luck man.....i tried and its a PITA!!!! Haha my dumbass ended up cracking my digitizer/LCD so i had to shell out another $130 for a new one......i hope u have better luck than me tho.....
Sent from my SGH-I727 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's EXACTLY what I'm worried about. But I guess my screen is done for either way. It's terribly cracked and falling apart now, so it can't get much worse.

demonblod said:
That's EXACTLY what I'm worried about. But I guess my screen is done for either way. It's terribly cracked and falling apart now, so it can't get much worse.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the accessories section a guy claims to have done it and used double sided tape to put the glass back on......idk tho i heated it up so much i burned my finger wen i touched the glass and i still couldn't separate it from the digitizer.....id say just buy a new digitizer......it isnt hard to replace.....i bought the digitizer alone without the housing around it and saved about $25.....
Sent from my SGH-I727 using xda app-developers app

Nope. It didn't work. I broke it. I kept using my heatgun, but the stupid adhesive just wouldn't give up. I turned up the heat a little bit, and suddenly a section of the digitizer just blew up into a dull green color. I guess that means I fried the pixels. Even after I burned the digitizer, the adhesive was still very strong. I think this is actually impossible. In order to loosen the adhesive, you would have to achieve a temperature far past the point of damaging the digitizer.
Another concept:
I had MANY small pieces of glass. I kept thinking "I wish I had nice, big pieces of glass. Then this would go so much faster". When I did try to lift a larger chunk of glass, the combined tension of the adhesive over the whole surface area caused the piece of glass to flex and crack.
So when you try to remove a large piece of glass, it then breaks into a hundred tiny pieces of glass and you're screwed even more.

demonblod said:
Nope. It didn't work. I broke it. I kept using my heatgun, but the stupid adhesive just wouldn't give up. I turned up the heat a little bit, and suddenly a section of the digitizer just blew up into a dull green color. I guess that means I fried the pixels. Even after I burned the digitizer, the adhesive was still very strong. I think this is actually impossible. In order to loosen the adhesive, you would have to achieve a temperature far past the point of damaging the digitizer.
Another concept:
I had MANY small pieces of glass. I kept thinking "I wish I had nice, big pieces of glass. Then this would go so much faster". When I did try to lift a larger chunk of glass, the combined tension of the adhesive over the whole surface area caused the piece of glass to flex and crack.
So when you try to remove a large piece of glass, it then breaks into a hundred tiny pieces of glass and you're screwed even more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly wat happened to me.....so u gettn a new digitizer or just a whole new phone?
Sent from my SGH-I727 using xda app-developers app

Replacing the tab 2 7 digitizer

My Tab 2 7 had a swirling crack on the digitizer (touchscreen). Looked for a tutorial on how to replace it in vain. Saw the teardown at Tech Republic, but that's it. No mention anywhere that I could find about how to do it. Decided to bite the bullet and ventured to fit a new one. Successful. Wrote down a quick guide thinking it might help someone since I saw a bunch of tabs with smashed digitizers on Ebay. Some claim it's gorilla glass, which makes me kind of wonder why they shatter so readily. I know, gorilla glass only scratch-resistant, but still...
Samsung sticks the digitizer to the bezel-frame with a tough double-sided tape, similar to the kind Asus uses on its tabs. A tutorial for the Tab 2 10 shows the use of a putty knife to scrape the digitizer off its frame, which wouldn't work with the 7, as its bezel-frame almost totally covers the edge of the glass back side. On the other hand, inserting anything metal in between from the front would scuff it badly.
The LCD display was taped to the magnesium frame, but is separate from the touchscreen, which need not be removed when replacing the digitizer.
What you need to do is to follow the steps in the teardown referred to above. As Tech Republic correctly pointed out, the internal layout is quite neat, unlike some of the tabs I've had the chance to disassemble. There are many thin cables, however, and you need to proceed with patience.
You must remove all components, so that only the frame with the digitizer and LCD is left. Eventually, you'd have to employ some source of heat, be it a heat gun, a hair dryer or a heat lamp to soften or to some extent melt the adhesive of the digitizer. Leaving any electronic component in place and the heat might destroy it. You can use brute force to separate the digitizer from the frame, but you'd more likely than not damage the LCD in the process.
What I did was use a heat gun at ~500 F, held at about 1 to 2 inches from the edge of the digitizer, and went back and forth over it, one side at a time, for no more than 30 to 35 seconds. I used a blunt object to push the glass out at spots plainly visible as illustrated in the attached thumbs below, then slid a plastic tool with a flared end to pry it from the bezel along its edge. Be careful how you handle the frame, since it would get burning hot at this point. As I moved from one side to another, I wedged a guitar pick between the glass and the frame to prevent them from sticking back together. You might pulverize parts of the glass as you go along, but in general it flexes quite a bit and wouldn't shatter.
Once you get it out, you need to remove the residual tape on the frame. The digitizer I bought was lined with new tape so I didn't have use any extra adhesive. It doesn't bind as strongly as the original tape, but enough to hold everything in place.
Putting it back is just the reverse. I took the extra step of reassembling the whole thing first with just the digitizer hanging loose, plugged it in, turned the tab on to make sure it functioned correctly before bonding it to the frame.
Basically, the process is nothing new. However, just the fact that someone has done it might give confidence to other DIYers in the future. Feel free to ask if any questions.
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/cracking-open-the-samsung-galaxy-tab-2-70/6360139?

Thanks im going to give it a go. Any walkthrough tips by anyone else appreciated

Replacing the digitizer on this device is among the easiest ive seen. With no heat or taking anything off except the back I fixed one with only an isesamo

Having problems with your TGSP not sticking on the corner?

I posted this in the screen protector thread but since so many people have had this problem with TGSPs on the 6P I thought it deserved its own thread. After applying my Intelliarmor TGSP I noticed, like many others, that the lower right corner had an area that was not sticking properly. I am not sure whether this is due to a defect in the screen or the screen protector but this seems to be a common problem. After not being able to get it to stay down by using pressure overnight I decided to try to see if heat would work. I took a hair dryer and turned it on high and focused the air on the unruly corner and heated it up for about 30 seconds while making sure the phone did not get too much heat. After the TGSP was pretty warm I removed the heat and held the corner down till it was cool. Low and behold this worked to get it to stick! Not sure if it subtly allowed the screen protector to bend to the screen or if the heat allowed the adhesive to bond properly, but either way it worked and has held for the past day. If you are having this problem give it a try. Can't hurt.

I had the same issue with my nexus 5. I did the exact same thing to fix it too.
I had this issue with my nexus 6p except on the top right corner. No amount of heat and pressure fixed it. I ended up doing an rma. The screen protector went down perfect on the new phone.

There are no females in my household, nor do I know of any close friend females that is within 50km from me even tho I live in a megacity, so I have to now go to Kmart to buy a hair dryer. Damn you intelliArmor.
It's just too risky to use a candle or a lighter.

zeitgeb3r said:
There are no females in my household, nor do I know of any close friend females that is within 50km from me even tho I live in a megacity, so I have to now go to Kmart to buy a hair dryer. Damn you intelliArmor.
It's just too risky to use a candle or a lighter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like you need to get more than a hair dryer while you are out.

zeitgeb3r said:
There are no females in my household, nor do I know of any close friend females that is within 50km from me even tho I live in a megacity, so I have to now go to Kmart to buy a hair dryer. Damn you intelliArmor.
It's just too risky to use a candle or a lighter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Walmart / Lowes / Home Depot / etc sell inexpensive heat guns. More useful than a hair dryer, I'd bet. Just be aware: They get hotter than a hair dryer.

I don't have any issues with Skinomi TGSP

I tried this two days ago for about 30 seconds then another 30 seconds about 3 times total. It helped and the lift is only in the very small corner but I still see it. I will wait a couple of days to see if it gets worse. Then I'll try it again. Maybe longer time,just didn't want to burn or damage the screen with heat. Don't really want to waste my spare that I have just to fix this corner thing. Is yours lifting at all? I will request replacements from intelliarmor when they get there thinner glass I suppose. Not sure if thinner is weaker. Sounds like it would certainly be.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

grubbster said:
I posted this in the screen protector thread but since so many people have had this problem with TGSPs on the 6P I thought it deserved its own thread. After applying my Intelliarmor TGSP I noticed, like many others, that the lower right corner had an area that was not sticking properly. I am not sure whether this is due to a defect in the screen or the screen protector but this seems to be a common problem. After not being able to get it to stay down by using pressure overnight I decided to try to see if heat would work. I took a hair dryer and turned it on high and focused the air on the unruly corner and heated it up for about 30 seconds while making sure the phone did not get too much heat. After the TGSP was pretty warm I removed the heat and held the corner down till it was cool. Low and behold this worked to get it to stick! Not sure if it subtly allowed the screen protector to bend to the screen or if the heat allowed the adhesive to bond properly, but either way it worked and has held for the past day. If you are having this problem give it a try. Can't hurt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No curved screen on this device, likely that the one you received was a defective one. Sounds like a pain if you're going to have to resort to using heat to keep it down!

Question, I'm new to Tempered glass. MY TGSP is lifting in the bottom left corner. I'm going to order a new one. Anything special I need to do in taking the old one off to avoid damaging the screen? I still have it on the phone. Appreciate any advice, new to this.

living37 said:
Question, I'm new to Tempered glass. MY TGSP is lifting in the bottom left corner. I'm going to order a new one. Anything special I need to do in taking the old one off to avoid damaging the screen? I still have it on the phone. Appreciate any advice, new to this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, just lift it at one edge, it should come off easily.
I can recommend the TGSP by Orzly. Sticks very well to each corners and is pretty slim.

.vermilion said:
No, just lift it at one edge, it should come off easily.
I can recommend the TGSP by Orzly. Sticks very well to each corners and is pretty slim.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I just wanted to double check. I just ordered the Supershieldz because of free shipping and it is a 2 pack. About every TGSP I look at has good and negative comments.

After a little more than one week, the bezel lost a lot of its rotation resistance

After owning the Gear S2 Classic for a little over a week, I noticed yesterday that the bezel is now a lot easier to rotate then it used to. I am concerned that something is wrong or wearing out prematurely. I kinda liked the amount of resistance it had before. It is still functioning but the rotation clicks are less noticeable and it takes almost not effort to rotate the bezel, making it feel cheap compared to how it was initially. I am still under the 15 days return policies at Best Buy. I was wondering if anyone has noticed this kind of changes over time? For example I think I needed to grasp with two fingers to rotate before and now I can do it with just one.

I have the opposite problem. After owning the Gear S2 3G for several months, the bezel gets sticky after turning it a few times, like I'm tightening a screw. If I continue turning the bezel or reverse the direction, it becomes loose again. I put a few drops of 3-in-1 oil in the gap between the bezel and the watch, and it helped the problem. However, after a week it started feeling sticky again.

Dont you make it worser by putting oil in there? Dust can get everywhere. Dust and oil isnt really a good mixture.

Oxizee said:
Dont you make it worser by putting oil in there? Dust can get everywhere. Dust and oil isnt really a good mixture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really. 3-in-1 oil is made to lubricate moving parts and clean tools/guns. The bezel turns nicely after applying a few drops of 3-in-1 oil, but it doesn't stay that way for more than a few weeks.
Another poster pointed out the Gear S2 is water resistant to level IP68. I tried cleaning it with warm water and some dish washing liquid, but I got the same result as using the 3-in-1 oil. I guess I just need to clean the watch every few weeks.

Zagzagel said:
Not really. 3-in-1 oil is made to lubricate moving parts and clean tools/guns. The bezel turns nicely after applying a few drops of 3-in-1 oil, but it doesn't stay that way for more than a few weeks.
Another poster pointed out the Gear S2 is water resistant to level IP68. I tried cleaning it with warm water and some dish washing liquid, but I got the same result as using the 3-in-1 oil. I guess I just need to clean the watch every few weeks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was me
Given that we don't know anything about the materials or construction of the seals, I wouldn't put anything other than water -- which the watch it expressly designed to tolerate. 3-in-1 is great for lubricating metal bearings like door hinges; I wouldn't introduce it (or any other lubricant/solvent) into a mechanism sealed against water intrusion, where there will be rubber/silicone parts that might not tolerate the oil.

dwallersv said:
That was me
Given that we don't know anything about the materials or construction of the seals, I wouldn't put anything other than water -- which the watch it expressly designed to tolerate. 3-in-1 is great for lubricating metal bearings like door hinges; I wouldn't introduce it (or any other lubricant/solvent) into a mechanism sealed against water intrusion, where there will be rubber/silicone parts that might not tolerate the oil.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good point. If the waterproof seals are made of rubber or plastic, a silicone oil should be used instead of petroleum. However, I'm just going to follow your advice and use soap and water when it gets sticky.

Zagzagel said:
Good point. If the waterproof seals are made of rubber or plastic, a silicone oil should be used instead of petroleum. However, I'm just going to follow your advice and use soap and water when it gets sticky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't even use any soap either unless necessary. While soap is far less risky than an oil, if water will do the trick alone that's the best answer.
Incrementalism, my friend Use a little soap only if necessary...