Database Info

[Q] Where 1080p videos?

Can anyone with a Sensation post some 1080p clips on Youtube, or maybe upload an untouched version on some filehosting site? I heard they did some wizardry and drastically improved the video compared to previous offerings. Pretty please with sugar on top?

I second this

I'm just trying now, not sure what the outcome will be
I cant post links as my post count isnt high enough..
Only way I can think is going to YouTube and search my channel 'PygoReviews'

Theres a couple on my channel uploaded, then a longer one is on its way once its uploaded. Includes filming my fish, my chameleon then going outside, so different lighting perspectives.

PygoShlee said:
I'm just trying now, not sure what the outcome will be
I cant post links as my post count isnt high enough..
Only way I can think is going to YouTube and search my channel 'PygoReviews'
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search "PygoReviews" = no hits

youtube.com/user/PygoReviews

http://www.youtube.com/user/PygoReviews

Cheers
There is another video being uploaded, im off to work now but the video shall be done in about half an hour.

onxda said:
youtube.com/user/PygoReviews
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok. Thanks.
Apparently search only works if you've uploaded >2 vids. Who knew?
Channel Search
You can search for YouTube channels in the same way that you search for videos. All user channels with greater than two uploads are indexed in search results.

PygoShlee said:
I'm just trying now, not sure what the outcome will be
I cant post links as my post count isnt high enough..
Only way I can think is going to YouTube and search my channel 'PygoReviews'
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please, upload a original sample to any fileholder (megaupload.com ,etc...).
Becouse Youtube always recode video.

Yes please upload unmodified clip onto say mediafire, megaupload, oron, filesonic, rapidshare, etc. Would appreciate it.
Here's the links to the two videos pygoreviews uploaded. Thanks for uploading.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVKQDJFab2g
Sorry to say, but the indoor video does not look good at all. Lots of noise and artifacts, blur, and dropped frames. The most annoying thing for me (which it shares with the Atrix and other Motorola phones) is it can't adjust exposure smoothly, like someone playing with the dimmer in a room; the slightest tilt and change in light suddenly dims or brightens the whole picture in big steps. Very annoying to me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IOR5mGRibY
In the outdoor video, seems to suffer from the same problems as the iPhone, but seems worse. Overblown and oversaturated colors and contrast, killing detail and giving it a smeared cartoony appearance. Exposure problems are less noticeable but still a problem.
Doesn't seem much better than HTCs older phones. I think the Atrix might even be better. The iPhone4, GS1/GS2/Nexus, G2x and N8 are all better.
Here are a couple of videos from that guy that has all those youtube videos already. Sam's Tech. Makes a good comparison with the GS2 since its all from the same field, time, and wind conditions.
Sensation 720p
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VC9R35x5tEQ
Galaxy S II
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jBQPMzhXQ0
Sensation 1080p
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vP6Zjs5prW4
Galaxy S II 1080p
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDV91zfm6VU
GS2 is much smoother and more detailed, with better colors and far less exposure issues. Just really far ahead in a lot of respects. Sensation still has exposure issues. Colors/contrast are way overblown/oversaturated like the previous videos, killing detail. Framerate is not smooth, quite jerky. And no screaming foul, since they are both Youtube uploads. It is smooth sometimes, but then stumbles quite a bit on others. The weirdest thing are the colors. They shift very dramatically. The grass goes from pale green one moment (like its overcast) to yellowish and warm the next, probably because of some exposure issue as well since it changes only at certain angles. Then there's the very conspicuous patches of blue/purple that sometimes appear on the grass or strewn atop the trees. Ghoulish. The strange color artifacts and overall weird colors remind me of an old VHS tape on a jacked up tube TV, not to mention the other details.
Another issue is the audio capture. Both the GS2 and Sensation have sucky audio capture (The G2x, iPhone4, and N8 are much better), but the Sensation fares worse in this comparison since the sound of the wind is needle sharp like lightning cracking (GS2 more like thunder thud) and the guy's voice has a lot more of those sharp screechy cutoff sounds. And no idea of the technical term for this.
Video capture and quality is very high on my priority list, probably tied with screen quality for number one spot. I know some people don't give a hoot about the camera or video of a phone, but there's a ton of people who do, especially as a convergent device. If you are looking for good video capture, there are much better choices out there.

Could be worse. Check out this issue with the SGS II
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QznuN_ZUh-A&NR=1
Some sort of random pink spot in the middle of every pic/video. Apparently quite a common issue there. New firmware doesnt fix it either.
Not saying I don't agree with everything you said about the Sensations videos. Exposure looks likes its being controlled by someone with a palsy. All over the place. Disappointing really.

Wow man, just read ur posts, they are all bashing HTC Phones/ Loving SGS Phones. BTW when u have sun setting on fiels it really gives the ground a pale yellow colour so if the video shows that it isnt a bad thing also when u limit the area to just the grass it focuses in that frame and adjusts the ISO and Exposure if its set to auto. So imo showing pale yellow colour when the sun is setting is a good thing, I know my Sony Cam takes the lighting into action unlike my nexus one cam who would always try to dim the lighting to the minimum thus kicking out the colours due to lighting, About SGSII or any other phone audio being better u can just thank your fanboyism for such judging. This is the first time i heard anyone sayin Mono audio sounds better than stereo :/. The audio might not be one with studio quality fidelity quality, but still awesome for a phone video Sensation video was equally smooth, its just that the guys hands were shaking, u can't blame your wife for becoming pregnant when u forgot to use a condom. And like u said Moderators dont give a rat ****

Just putting up another of mediafire. Off to work again so will post up a link later. Its outside today, so be prepared for alot of wind noise Bloody weather.

Here you go people:
http://www.mediafire.com/?llmpx16mm5o7oye

PygoShlee said:
Here you go people:
http://www.mediafire.com/?llmpx16mm5o7oye
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looked ok and sound was alright despite wind. Now question. Does the video camera have any whitebalance options at all? There was quite a lot of washout of the colour in bright light. I would like to be able to set whitebalance to sunny perhaps to combat that kind of thing.

Bratag said:
Looked ok and sound was alright despite wind. Now question. Does the video camera have any whitebalance options at all? There was quite a lot of washout of the colour in bright light. I would like to be able to set whitebalance to sunny perhaps to combat that kind of thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I saw it in a video and just checked the manual where it's listed and gives the impression that it is available (the photo only options mention "photo only" and white balance doesn't have that comment).
PygoShlee said:
Here you go people:
http://www.mediafire.com/?llmpx16mm5o7oye
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just saw it, seems quite nice. Not as much detail as I'd like but more than decent. And definitely better than the first 720p videos for phones (those were absolute rubbish). Hey, it's even better than some "1080p" tv shows I've seen (you know the ones, where it seems the FullHD was achieved through very aggressive warpsharp algorithms).

Outdoor clips look good! but I'm worried about indoor / low light.. The samples from even the G2X looked smooth in very low light, but the Sensation clip looked to have the same awful judder that my Nexus One has..
PygoShlee, if you would be so kind, can you take a low light / indoor night time video in 720p and see if it's smooth?
(G2x clip for comparison in a dark room: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZnP23jd_A4)

I'll do it this afternoon
Sent from my HTC Sensation

PygoShlee said:
Here you go people:
http://www.mediafire.com/?llmpx16mm5o7oye
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I quite like this. Smooth when panning. Detail could be better.

Making better 3D photos with our eLGy

Hello everyone
This you must consider just some help and ideas based on my experience with 3D devices - not that I have such a great experience. I own a 3D camera, the FujiFilm RealPix 3D W1 and this phone.
You are free - and I hope that will do it, to contribute with your own ideas and photos.
First thing first... As in normal photography, not take shots against light sources, as sun and other powerfull light sources. Against the sun, lasers you could end with your camera ruined because of the too much light on the sensor - consider that it gets focused, like a magnifying glass...
Also in 3D avoid taking photos with flash. The flash is not powerfull enough and do not distribute even light for all two camera, so in some way you'll get the left photo slightly brighter than the right photo and when is all put together you might get a ghost effect.
Do not shoot on object perpendicular on the cameras because when is viewed in 3D you'll get a very annoying and disturbing effect that you'll hit your eyes and brain like a cannonball ' remember that °it is all in your head° - the 3D effect I mean.
Also do not shoot object that do "split" in half the 3D image - gives the same annoying effect.
The distance from the subject is recommanded between 2 and 5 meters. Below 2 meters you'll get your cannonball, above 5 meters the 3D effect is lost.
Also is recommanded to take photos of subjects with different depths, like flowers, because you'll get a very obvious and good 3D effect. Do not shoot a subject that fills up all the photo with one color, like a table painted in yellow.
Pay attention at parallax - a wrong adjustment and you'll get ghost pictures. If you're forced to take a photo of different subjets, on different depths in same photo, hitting the right parallax is a little harder than usual. I choose the center of the photo, in which all subjets are clear, that I crop the photo, leaving the ghost effect (which in this case is on the margins) out.
3D mostly means contours and coloured subjects, so you have to seek always some contrast between different subjects in same photos.
These are the main things I can think of right now.
Hope that you'll find them helpful. Please let me know what you think.
LE: talking to TylDurden (you'll find his query later this thread - please feel free to help if you can) I reminded of some tips that first time I forgot to mention. here they are
NEW TIP (which I forgot about it) - When you're gonna shoot in 3D mode just don't make a full press of the onscreen button, press it just a little shorter in time in order to get the real preview of the photo. In this preview you'll see how the final photo will be. And if you get some ghost image just adjust the parallax and try to get all the objects or most of them without ghost trails or sides.
Another TIP - set your screen brightness at maximum level because if you have it reduces you might not notice ghost effects
Another TIP - the focus area works better if is set on center not on border - don't ask why but I do see a difference.
And most important TIP - try, try, try. Remember every settings used to take the photos and compare same photos of the same object but with different settings and see which ones are working for you.
Thanks

Thanks for the tips, are very helpful.

Thanks for the tips.
I have learned that to get something to jump from the phone towards the viewer, you must keep an entire object within the picture.
Take ie. a picture of a face/head, it can be on 1m, just keep the entire head inside the frame. Don't come too close, it'll cause the headaches/canonball effect BigBadSheep already talked about, but 2m is way too much. 0.8m or 0.5m can work a lot! As long as you keep the object within the frame.
I stumbled upon this when my son kept his icecream close to the camera with his hand. When we watched the photo the icecream was really jumping out of it.
I have tested this a lot, by moving the object very close to the camera or partly out of the frame. Just play with it to find the best result.
3D pictures with water are very cool as well!
I have made many 3D pictures with people jumping into the water. Especially if you dare to keep the camera quite close to the action, it gives awesome effects!
Timing is very difficult with the O3D b/c there's about 1sec between pressing the button and the picture actually being taken.
I started to press the button 1sec before the expected water bomb, that works quite good! I now have about 30 very very cool pictures of my kids smashing into the water!
I'm more and more leaning towards favouring 3D pictures above 3D movies.
Shooting 3D movies is very hard and the image is shaking very easily which becomes too tiresome to watch. Filming in 3D is very difficult. Making pictures is cool though!
And if you watch them on a good passive(!) 3D TV it's even better!
(please all: never buy an active 3D TV, I have an active 3D TV myself and I use it less and less. the effect is so bad during daylight and the on/off button is very tedious, especially the switching all the time if you're moving through pictures etc. passive 3D tvs work perfect during daylight, never the strobing effect. cheap glasses. no batteries needed for glasses.
My father/sister has a passive TV and I really regret having an active TV. Surely, the 3D is good and all, but compared to the passive (LG/Philips) TV of my father/sister, passive is just the way to go.
Don't believe those who claim that active gives a full HD while passive doesn't. It's bollocks. At first b/c the strobing effect is far worse then even the supposed half Full HD effect could be. Secondly b/c both active and passive offer a half Full HD effect. Active just closes your left and right eyes half of the time while passive hids half the image from your left and right eye)

Rho'd Berth said:
Don't believe those who claim that active gives a full HD while passive doesn't. It's bollocks. At first b/c the strobing effect is far worse then even the supposed half Full HD effect could be. Secondly b/c both active and passive offer a half Full HD effect. Active just closes your left and right eyes half of the time while passive hids half the image from your left and right eye)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry but that is incorrect. I have an active shutter tv and no strobing problems at all.
As for passive and active being half quality you seem to misunderstand how they work because only passive 3D is half resolution.
Passive tv puts both images on tv together and the glasses block out half the image from each eye so right eye and left eye see half the picture.
Active tv doesn't cover each eye up as you say but instead sends the whole picture for each view to each eye very quickly rather than just hide half of it as passive does.
They don't just feed half of what's on screen to each eye but instead show the full hd image to each so you get full quality not half. It is also what causes the strobing that some people experience.
This halving of resolution on passive 3D is why some sets now go higher than 1080p so that when displayed passively the video is same resolution as an active set although most sets still don't do this.
http://hometheater.about.com/od/tel...ve-Polarized-Vs-Active-Shutter-3d-Glasses.htm
Dave
( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
Sent from my LG P920 using Tapatalk 2

As an owner of a 3D active
mistermentality said:
Sorry but that is incorrect. I have an active shutter tv and no strobing problems at all.
As for passive and active being half quality you seem to misunderstand how they work because only passive 3D is half resolution.
Passive tv puts both images on tv together and the glasses block out half the image from each eye so right eye and left eye see half the picture.
Active tv doesn't cover each eye up as you say but instead sends the whole picture for each view to each eye very quickly rather than just hide half of it as passive does.
They don't just feed half of what's on screen to each eye but instead show the full hd image to each so you get full quality not half. It is also what causes the strobing that some people experience.
This halving of resolution on passive 3D is why some sets now go higher than 1080p so that when displayed passively the video is same resolution as an active set although most sets still don't do this.
http://hometheater.about.com/od/tel...ve-Polarized-Vs-Active-Shutter-3d-Glasses.htm
Dave
( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
Sent from my LG P920 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I must say that still the active is the way to be, even if now there are some TV with passive 3D that makes a good picture. I own the LG 50PX950N TV set, the first with THX certified 3D. Always the LG. But, as it happens always, LG pulled out from the hat the 3D passive which is advertised as better as the active ones, from here seeing the in all company, on all branches, is the philosophy: you bought it? Thanks alot sucker! because they made these passive one 7 months after the shouted out: you've made the greatest 3D active TV ever!
But still , as stated, I think that active is still the way.
And, in another news, I would like to write about how to connect the phone to the TV in such manner that you get 3D directly out of the box. I had some time to figure this out.
First you need the HDMI 1.4 cable. Then, from the HDMI settings you must force it on 1080p (50Hz or 60 HZ - I think it makes no difference, seeing that now all TVs can make both frequencies). Leaving in automatic mode it just takes the native resolution of the screen, which is 480x800 and in this mode you wont't get the 3D effect, nor the HD videos played.
Next, about the 3D pictures, will be a tutorial on how to make them "universal", meaning being able to display them on every display, with red-cyan 3 mode.

BigBadSheep said:
Hello everyone
This you must consider just some help and ideas based on my experience with 3D devices - not that I have such a great experience. I own a 3D camera, the FujiFilm RealPix 3D W1 and this phone.
You are free - and I hope that will do it, to contribute with your own ideas and photos.
First thing first... As in normal photography, not take shots against light sources, as sun and other powerfull light sources. Against the sun, lasers you could end with your camera ruined because of the too much light on the sensor - consider that it gets focused, like a magnifying glass...
Also in 3D avoid taking photos with flash. The flash is not powerfull enough and do not distribute even light for all two camera, so in some way you'll get the left photo slightly brighter than the right photo and when is all put together you might get a ghost effect.
Do not shoot on object perpendicular on the cameras because when is viewed in 3D you'll get a very annoying and disturbing effect that you'll hit your eyes and brain like a cannonball ' remember that °it is all in your head° - the 3D effect I mean.
Also do not shoot object that do "split" in half the 3D image - gives the same annoying effect.
The distance from the subject is recommanded between 2 and 5 meters. Below 2 meters you'll get your cannonball, above 5 meters the 3D effect is lost.
Also is recommanded to take photos of subjects with different depths, like flowers, because you'll get a very obvious and good 3D effect. Do not shoot a subject that fills up all the photo with one color, like a table painted in yellow.
Pay attention at parallax - a wrong adjustment and you'll get ghost pictures. If you're forced to take a photo of different subjets, on different depths in same photo, hitting the right parallax is a little harder than usual. I choose the center of the photo, in which all subjets are clear, that I crop the photo, leaving the ghost effect (which in this case is on the margins) out.
3D mostly means contours and coloured subjects, so you have to seek always some contrast between different subjects in same photos.
These are the main things I can think of right now.
Hope that you'll find them helpful. Please let me know what you think.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also use to have the fuji 3D w1 by the way update the firmware it will improve too much, I sell it and got they W3 and it's waaaayyy better. Thanks for the tips man.
Sent from my LG-P920 using xda premium

mistermentality said:
Sorry but that is incorrect. I have an active shutter tv and no strobing problems at all.
As for passive and active being half quality you seem to misunderstand how they work because only passive 3D is half resolution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, both eyes receive half the Full HD resolution, together that's Full HD.
Passive tv puts both images on tv together and the glasses block out half the image from each eye so right eye and left eye see half the picture.
Active tv doesn't cover each eye up as you say but instead sends the whole picture for each view to each eye very quickly rather than just hide half of it as passive does.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Active shutter is closing one eye after another eye. All the time only 1 of your eyes can see the screen. The other one is closed / blackened.
The TV is showing first the left eye frame and then the right eye frame. While the left eye frame is showed, the right eye is blackened, and the other way around.
They don't just feed half of what's on screen to each eye but instead show the full hd image to each so you get full quality not half. It is also what causes the strobing that some people experience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I said, they feed the full image to each eye half of the time.
I have an active shutter tv and no strobing problems at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Watch a 3D movie in full day light and you will have strobing problems, unless your glasses cover your eyes entirely.
When ie. your left eye is blackened by the glasses, then there's still light coming in from the sides of your glasses. It's not so much the TV that's strobing but the light from other sources.
It's a fact that watching active 3D during daylight just plainly sucks.
Did you ever watch passive 3D TV? Did you ever compare? Or are you just defending your own TV, like most people do.
Like I said, I have an active 3D TV myself, a very good rated Samsung. Compared to even the cheap Philips passive 3D TV of my father my TV sucks in 3D. Not during the night if we're wathcing a good movie. Then it's ok. But the entire viewing experience is more then just the dark evening in the winter. IT's also the turning on of the glasses, the replacing the batteries, the fact that the glasses are that expensive. The fact that my Laptop 3D shutter glasses are damaged and also cost $100. The fact that the glasses are heavy, etc.
We've watching vacation pictures on a passive TV with 8 people among with 4 kids. No need to turn on the glasses for the kids and some adults. Imagine doing the same on active TV..... and then I'm not even taking the extra $600 for glasses in account.

Rho'd Berth said:
Watch a 3D movie in full day light and you will have strobing problems, unless your glasses cover your eyes entirely.
When ie. your left eye is blackened by the glasses, then there's still light coming in from the sides of your glasses. It's not so much the TV that's strobing but the light from other sources.
It's a fact that watching active 3D during daylight just plainly sucks.
Did you ever watch passive 3D TV? Did you ever compare? Or are you just defending your own TV, like most people do.
Like I said, I have an active 3D TV myself, a very good rated Samsung. Compared to even the cheap Philips passive 3D TV of my father my TV sucks in 3D. Not during the night if we're wathcing a good movie. Then it's ok. But the entire viewing experience is more then just the dark evening in the winter. IT's also the turning on of the glasses, the replacing the batteries, the fact that the glasses are that expensive. The fact that my Laptop 3D shutter glasses are damaged and also cost $100. The fact that the glasses are heavy, etc.
We've watching vacation pictures on a passive TV with 8 people among with 4 kids. No need to turn on the glasses for the kids and some adults. Imagine doing the same on active TV..... and then I'm not even taking the extra $600 for glasses in account.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have to agree with everything of the above. I also have an active 3D Samsung TV and especially during the daylight there are problems. Not to mention the extremely expensive 3D glasses.
Last weekend a friend of mine who just purchased a passive 3D LG TV (with 8 FREE glasses included) had a BBQ party of 6 people. I took some 3D videos with my O3D and played them on his TV. All 6 people at the same time could enjoy my 3D videos on his TV under broad daylight. With my TV this could be impossible.

Rho'd Berth said:
No, both eyes receive half the Full HD resolution, together that's Full HD.
Active shutter is closing one eye after another eye. All the time only 1 of your eyes can see the screen. The other one is closed / blackened.
The TV is showing first the left eye frame and then the right eye frame. While the left eye frame is showed, the right eye is blackened, and the other way around.
That's what I said, they feed the full image to each eye half of the time.
Watch a 3D movie in full day light and you will have strobing problems, unless your glasses cover your eyes entirely.
When ie. your left eye is blackened by the glasses, then there's still light coming in from the sides of your glasses. It's not so much the TV that's strobing but the light from other sources.
It's a fact that watching active 3D during daylight just plainly sucks.
Did you ever watch passive 3D TV? Did you ever compare? Or are you just defending your own TV, like most people do.
Like I said, I have an active 3D TV myself, a very good rated Samsung. Compared to even the cheap Philips passive 3D TV of my father my TV sucks in 3D. Not during the night if we're wathcing a good movie. Then it's ok. But the entire viewing experience is more then just the dark evening in the winter. IT's also the turning on of the glasses, the replacing the batteries, the fact that the glasses are that expensive. The fact that my Laptop 3D shutter glasses are damaged and also cost $100. The fact that the glasses are heavy, etc.
We've watching vacation pictures on a passive TV with 8 people among with 4 kids. No need to turn on the glasses for the kids and some adults. Imagine doing the same on active TV..... and then I'm not even taking the extra $600 for glasses in account.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As you just pointed out the active glasses send the full image to each eye alternating between left and right but both eyes do still see full hd in both eyes because the two images are at full resolution.
They do not half the resolution at all, and if you have an active tv you can see that yourself because you will see both images at the same time but full res. Now do that on a passive set and you'll notice the difference.
As for expensive glasses, you can buy them for under fifteen pound in uk and rechargeables are only twenty something pound and neither are heavy, I watched the olympics for three hours no problem at all last night.
I do need to explain regarding strobing, I was referring to the 3D image not strobing.
You are right that light sources will flicker, but I don't watch much 3D tv during the day so for me it isn't an issue as I prefer watching films with the lights off but yes you are right on that.
This review of both at http://m.cnet.com/news/active-3d-vs-passive-3d-whats-better/57437344?ds=1 does a good job of explaining what I mean even though the author prefers passive they do admit active has higher resolution.
In a few years I will probably get a passive set as by then 4K passive sets will be higher res than current active ones but for now I prefer a higher resolution image but each format has benefits.
Dave
( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
Sent from my LG P920 using Tapatalk 2

Dave,
So you admit that there is strobing of light (not the TV) that is annoying. You're just saying that it doesn't matter b/c you don't watch TV during daylight anyway. So let's keep it honest: there is a problem, and you can't watch 3D movies during the summer and much of the spring.
They do not half the resolution at all, and if you have an active tv you can see that yourself because you will see both images at the same time but full res. Now do that on a passive set and you'll notice the difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And again you claim that you see Full HD to both eyes at the same time.
No, that's not true, all the time 1 of your eyes is covered. Never do you see a Full HD image to both your eyes at the same time.
I'm not saying that passive is better a picturing a Full HD image, it's just using a different technique.
Passive 3D: Both your eyes get half a Full HD image all the time
Active 3D: Both your eyes get a Full HD image half the time
In my opinion the quality is very very good on both active and passive 3D.
The reason I favour passive is b/c of the:
- strobing during daylight
- annoying expensive glasses
And so far everybody who has experienced both Passive and Active 3D TV agrees with me.
Only people who read up the theory and never saw a passive 3D TV disagree.
Robert
mistermentality said:
As you just pointed out the active glasses send the full image to each eye alternating between left and right but both eyes do still see full hd in both eyes because the two images are at full resolution.
They do not half the resolution at all, and if you have an active tv you can see that yourself because you will see both images at the same time but full res. Now do that on a passive set and you'll notice the difference.
As for expensive glasses, you can buy them for under fifteen pound in uk and rechargeables are only twenty something pound and neither are heavy, I watched the olympics for three hours no problem at all last night.
I do need to explain regarding strobing, I was referring to the 3D image not strobing.
You are right that light sources will flicker, but I don't watch much 3D tv during the day so for me it isn't an issue as I prefer watching films with the lights off but yes you are right on that.
This review of both at http://m.cnet.com/news/active-3d-vs-passive-3d-whats-better/57437344?ds=1 does a good job of explaining what I mean even though the author prefers passive they do admit active has higher resolution.
In a few years I will probably get a passive set as by then 4K passive sets will be higher res than current active ones but for now I prefer a higher resolution image but each format has benefits.
Dave
( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
Sent from my LG P920 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

No matter which one of the 3D types is better the full HD resolution shouldn't be the main factor for choosing your 3D TV, at least for the majority of the people. That's because the average human eye could fully spot the 1080p only when it's very close to the TV.
For example, with an 40-inch TV, you need to sit closer than 5 feet (1.5 meters) for the full HD resolution to become apparent. How many people watch TV that close?
Check the chart here:
http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter/

I have 42" lg tv and i can definitely see the difference between 720p and 1080p from 2,5m or so. Clearly see it for example in ps3 xmb is in 1080p vs xbox dash which is always in 720p just upscaled. Or when playing sacred 2(one of the few games that run in full hd) in xbox try to set 1080p play and then set 720p and it will look like **** compared to 1080p. So full hd matters. Not to mention difference in movies.
Sent from my LG-P920 using xda app-developers app

xtrustkillx said:
I have 42" lg tv and i can definitely see the difference between 720p and 1080p from 2,5m or so.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not surprising considering your TV size and the your viewing distance. If you look at the chart, for 42" TV the 2.5m you're sitting it's actually the upper limit for distinguishing between 720p and 1080p (the actual range is 1.6-2.5m for a 42" TV). But if you sit 3-4m away, you can't distinguish between 720p and 1080p.
And that's for a normal 2D picture which uses as a source sharp graphics and fonts of PS3 games. If you watch instead 3D video the differences between 1080p and 720p are even less apparent considering the slightly darker image and the glasses.

Rho'd Berth said:
Dave,
So you admit that there is strobing of light (not the TV) that is annoying. You're just saying that it doesn't matter b/c you don't watch TV during daylight anyway. So let's keep it honest: there is a problem, and you can't watch 3D movies during the summer and much of the spring.
And again you claim that you see Full HD to both eyes at the same time.
No, that's not true, all the time 1 of your eyes is covered. Never do you see a Full HD image to both your eyes at the same time.
I'm not saying that passive is better a picturing a Full HD image, it's just using a different technique.
Passive 3D: Both your eyes get half a Full HD image all the time
Active 3D: Both your eyes get a Full HD image half the time
In my opinion the quality is very very good on both active and passive 3D.
The reason I favour passive is b/c of the:
- strobing during daylight
- annoying expensive glasses
And so far everybody who has experienced both Passive and Active 3D TV agrees with me.
Only people who read up the theory and never saw a passive 3D TV disagree.
Robert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ive posted two links which explain clearly that active gives full hd to each eye and passive does not.
I could post a hundred but you will still insist I'm mistaken or lying.
If you can't see that a full hd image to each eye (your eye combines both hd images to make one 3D image so it is a full hd 3D image) is better than half hd I then nothing I say and no links I post will convince you and this thread will just become a kind of back and forth argument that goes nowhere so I will agree to disagree.
And yes passive is better except for resolution, as I explained when you said strobing I was referring to what a lot of people do when saying that which is that the tv image strobes and disagreeing about that.
So yes passive is good but it is still correct that for resolution per eye active remains better for now. That doesn't make active better in general of course but in that specific area it does.
And of course people will still argue that I'm incorrect or have never seen passive 3D etc so I'm going to agree that we can disagree.
Dave
( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
Sent from my LG P920 using Tapatalk 2
---------- Post added at 10:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:41 AM ----------
botson71 said:
No matter which one of the 3D types is better the full HD resolution shouldn't be the main factor for choosing your 3D TV, at least for the majority of the people. That's because the average human eye could fully spot the 1080p only when it's very close to the TV.
For example, with an 40-inch TV, you need to sit closer than 5 feet (1.5 meters) for the full HD resolution to become apparent. How many people watch TV that close?
Check the chart here:
http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. I chose active for the higher picture resolution primarily as I watch most of my films in the dark so any flickering of daylight isn't a problem for me. And because I like the tv of course.
Dave
( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
Sent from my LG P920 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks for the 3D Photo tips. I don't do a whole lot of 3D Photography since I suck at it, maybe these tips will change that and I'll get back into it.
Also just to chime in on the whole Active vs Passive debate I have a 23" LG Passive set and even a passive set with glasses I have a hell of a time finding the sweet spot. I thought a set with glasses wouldn't have that problem like our phones do. Obviously our phones have a parralax barrier and that's why you have to find the sweet spot but with my LG set and Passive glasses I still have to nail a vertical sweet spot. I can't be too high or too low. This also effects how close I can sit to the set. If I sit too far away than I will get ghosting on either the top or the bottom of the screen. I can shift myself higher or lower and make one of them go away but the only way to fix them both is to simply move myself closer to the screen. My friend has an Active set and we never have any of these issues with his set. It's in his basement and is pitch black in broad daylight so he's never had to worry about bright daylight. The cheap glasses of the Passive set are nice but the sweet spot is such a hassle.
Maybe someone can point out what I'm doing wrong and I can have a much better 3D experience with my Passive set.

Well...glad to be helpful
TylDurden said:
Thanks for the 3D Photo tips. I don't do a whole lot of 3D Photography since I suck at it, maybe these tips will change that and I'll get back into it.
Also just to chime in on the whole Active vs Passive debate I have a 23" LG Passive set and even a passive set with glasses I have a hell of a time finding the sweet spot. I thought a set with glasses wouldn't have that problem like our phones do. Obviously our phones have a parralax barrier and that's why you have to find the sweet spot but with my LG set and Passive glasses I still have to nail a vertical sweet spot. I can't be too high or too low. This also effects how close I can sit to the set. If I sit too far away than I will get ghosting on either the top or the bottom of the screen. I can shift myself higher or lower and make one of them go away but the only way to fix them both is to simply move myself closer to the screen. My friend has an Active set and we never have any of these issues with his set. It's in his basement and is pitch black in broad daylight so he's never had to worry about bright daylight. The cheap glasses of the Passive set are nice but the sweet spot is such a hassle.
Maybe someone can point out what I'm doing wrong and I can have a much better 3D experience with my Passive set.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But again I'll be talking from personal experience. Before I buy my TV set - a 50 inches LG PX950N, I was searching on all forums for every kind of info. And at that moment I've reached the conclusion, and is also recommended, that in order to enjoy a real 3D effect your TV set has to be 40 inches or bigger, especially for passive, which at that moment - I'm talking March 2012, wasn't so much accepted. And because my living room isn't big enough I went for a 50 inches Plasma TV set for three reasons - 3D effect (with all those criterias to obey to - size and active) but also that the TV must give full satisfaction in 2D mode HiDef and SD. And the third one as I had this offer - TV set and 3D camera (and here's another story to tell) I bought all just for 1000 euros (plus 40 euros for SD HC card for the 3D camera). Overall a good affair.
Now what can I tell in your case: maybe isn't you that don't get the perfect photo maybe it's just the size of your 3D TV set. And surely it's the passive mode which still is not a real option.
NEW TIP (which I forgot about it) - When you're gonna shoot in 3D mode just don't make a full press of the onscreen button, press it just a little shorter in time in order to get the real preview of the photo. In this preview you'll see how the final photo will be. And if you get some ghost image just adjust the parallax and try to get all the objects or most of them without ghost trails or sides.
Another TIP - set your screen brightness at maximum level because if you have it reduces you might not notice ghost effects
Another TIP - the focus area works better if is set on center not on border - don't ask why but I do see a difference.
And most important TIP - try, try, try. Remember every settings used to take the photos and compare same photos of the same object but with different settings and see which ones are working for you.
Thanks guys for reading and replying to my posts.

You are right
botson71 said:
No matter which one of the 3D types is better the full HD resolution shouldn't be the main factor for choosing your 3D TV, at least for the majority of the people. That's because the average human eye could fully spot the 1080p only when it's very close to the TV.
For example, with an 40-inch TV, you need to sit closer than 5 feet (1.5 meters) for the full HD resolution to become apparent. How many people watch TV that close?
Check the chart here:
http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But just to make fun out of it - the human brain, let me say that I can spot the 1080p from very far away, and I'm talking something like 5 meters - my living room is long 6,7 m and 4 m wide, and when I'm eating between me and TV (50 inches plasma TV set) is this distance. And I notice better 3D effect than my wife. But my wife is seeing more colors - mixtures, shades and variations than I do. So go figure how we're set in my house.

Great thread. Worth a bump for those like me who are new here.
Sent from my LG-SU870 using xda app-developers app

[PHOTOS] Share your pictures - ImageBam a good site for full-size upload

Share your Galaxy S4 photos and videos here - now with PocketNow Camera guide!
This thread is dedicated to user photos, videos and discussion, ImageBam and DropBox is recommended for full-size photo sharing. I also gathered a bunch of samples made by reviewers and divided those into two categories, Exynos 5 Octa (I9500, I9502, SHV-E300S) and Snapdragon 600 (I9505, SPH-L720 etc.) as there are minor differences such as a little more detail and less saturation on the Exnos 5 version.
- use Sport Mode or higher ISO to capture fast motion
- tap on focus and release upon the right moment for fast shutter response
- use Night Mode in dark for brighter results (needs steady hands)
- take multiple images or use burst mode and choose the best result later
- set volume keys for comfortable zooming
- hold the phone with two hands for steady shots, index fingers on top left and right, thumbs on bottom (left on volume keys), middle fingers parallel on the sides (landscape)
- hold the phone steady after shutter sound for a few seconds to make sure there is no shake upon capture
- use voice command function so there is no shake coming from tap
- use rich tone (HDR) mode when there's big brightness difference in the foreground and background or when the sky burns out
- do NOT use HDR when you want to capture high contrast images or when the sky is not burnt out, your result will be washed out
- use flash in daylight when there's strong light behind people
- geotag your photos to save location (drains battery)
- please, for the love of god, don't shoot videos in portrait mode
Samples taken with the Exynos Octa version (includng this post):
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=39803805&postcount=29 Daylight outside and in hotel
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=39809588&postcount=31 Night shots in various ISO modes
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=39853177&postcount=43 Daylight and some insides
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=39879818&postcount=44 Sunset and night
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=39915727&postcount=49 Daylight and macro
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=39988910&postcount=56 Panorama shots (Exynos, Snapdragon)
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40001853&postcount=62 Various conditions
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40096363&postcount=69 Studio shots
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40140757&postcount=73 Food macros
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40200900&postcount=74 Various shots
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40250108&postcount=80 Photos and videos
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40359369&postcount=93 Thai indoors and low-lights
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40424324&postcount=101 Indoors and outdoors in good conditions
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40542257&postcount=113 Bad weather, night
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40701266&postcount=172 Hong Kong at night
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40725770&postcount=175 Panoramas
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40805475&postcount=197 Korean samples
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40956057&postcount=248 HDR, night shots, inside
Samples taken with the Snapdragon 600 version:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=39751521&postcount=9 Daylight, sunset and low-light shots
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=39887623&postcount=48 HDR vs. normal
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40310570&postcount=89 Drama shot mode
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40336531&postcount=92 Day and night
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40384077&postcount=98 Daytime
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40457560&postcount=103 Daytime, panorama on retail version
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40661953&postcount=152 US version samples, daytime. nighttime, indoors
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40688873&postcount=169 US samples, outdoors
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40725770&postcount=175 Panoramas
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=40765409&postcount=184 More US samples

Nice samples.
S4 photo quality is more than enough for me.

Re: [PHOTOS] The Galaxy S4 user photos and camera discussion thread
Pictures look far superior than what the Sony Xperia Z can produce!
Sent from my C6603 using xda app-developers app

scott2121210 said:
Pictures look far superior than what the Sony Xperia Z can produce!
Sent from my C6603 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which is very strange as the Oppo Find 5 (also Sony Exmor RS, and like the S4, F2,2) also beats the Xperia Z in details, noise amount, post-processing (or lack of it)... I suspect most troubles are coming from the IP57 certified F2.4 lens, which is different to Sony's original IU135F3-Z (Exmore RS sensor + F2.2 lens).

BoneXDA said:
Which is very strange as the Oppo Find 5 (also Sony Exmor RS, and like the S4, F2,2) also beats the Xperia Z in details, noise amount, post-processing (or lack of it)... I suspect most troubles are coming from the IP57 certified F2.4 lens, which is different to Sony's original IU135F3-Z (Exmore RS sensor + F2.2 lens).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sony applies overcompression algorithms to its camera modules.
As a result the final picture has small size and low details.
Xperia Z is around 3 mb maximum.

very good
they look very good.....:good:

WOW they looks great! Very happy with suit. Can't wait to get my hands on this BIG.little beauty

i know someone already got S4 and send me a recorded video with it
here's the properties of the video if it could help

Snapdragon 600 samples:
http://www.phonearena.com/reviews/Samsung-Galaxy-S4-Review_id3280/page/3
http://www.phonearena.com/news/Samsung-Galaxy-S-4-camera-samples-vs-iPhone-5_id40873#7-Galaxy-S-4
http://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_galaxy_s4_vs_htc_one-review-913p8.php
http://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_galaxy_s4-review-910p6.php
Strong light, medium light, low light, flash, low light face shot, low light late afternoon:

I'll bite if Samsung gives me a Galaxy S4 - Aluminum Edition. Don't care about removable battery or storage. Why can't Samsung give options? The plastic build is probably the biggest complaint people have for all Samsung phones. They do make niche metal phones (e.g. Samsung Wave, Omnia) and plenty in the past, so its not a matter of lack of experience. They are luring me back in with Adobe RGB mode. Now how about a metal version? If its the problem of yields, you can make it a slight premium and sell it online only. Everyone else who doesn't care about the plastic build can be happy with their GS4, while those of us who want a premium metal phone can eat our cake too!

Re: [PHOTOS] The Galaxy S4 user photos and camera discussion thread
The reason for the lack of aluminum build is simple and Samsung has explained this is in the past. The HTC One takes 200 minutes to machine the aluminum for one device, now think about the amount of devices Samsung Ships, requiring 200 minutes for a device is simply not a viable option for Samsung. If they did produce an aluminum body device, expect there to be plenty of shortages.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium

Re: [PHOTOS] The Galaxy S4 user photos and camera discussion thread
Camera is one the biggest improvements for me to move from note 2 to s4.
sent from: The New S-Pen

Those photos look really good. My s3 had a horrible camera. noise Noise everywhere. The s4 seems to have gotten rid of that "feature"!

Very good photo's

katamari201 said:
I'll bite if Samsung gives me a Galaxy S4 - Aluminum Edition. Don't care about removable battery or storage. Why can't Samsung give options? The plastic build is probably the biggest complaint people have for all Samsung phones. They do make niche metal phones (e.g. Samsung Wave, Omnia) and plenty in the past, so its not a matter of lack of experience. They are luring me back in with Adobe RGB mode. Now how about a metal version? If its the problem of yields, you can make it a slight premium and sell it online only. Everyone else who doesn't care about the plastic build can be happy with their GS4, while those of us who want a premium metal phone can eat our cake too!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The "premium metal build" of the HTC One failed the AndroidAuthority drop test losing the top front part on the smallest drop which cannot be clicked just glued back, and was heavily dented with a broken screen on the highest drop. It also got the worst repairability score of all times by ifixit cause the glued body is impossible to open without effectively destroying the back panel, so if the smallest issue appears or your battery dies, it's weeks in repair and easily a $100 once warranty's over.
In comparison the latest Samsung flagship AA tested passed all 3 drops with small scratches and no broken parts, and the battery which sooner or later loses half the power or dies, is 5 seconds to replace. Mind too that the polycarbonate Lumia 920 is the toughest flagship out there, so while aluminum looks nice, it is ABSOLUTELY NOT an advantage in terms of build and far less practical cause you give things up you'll miss when trouble kicks in. Plus you'll put the metal beauty in an ugly case on day one. Slip metal body doesn't make premium requirements.

katamari201 said:
I'll bite if Samsung gives me a Galaxy S4 - Aluminum Edition. Don't care about removable battery or storage. Why can't Samsung give options? The plastic build is probably the biggest complaint people have for all Samsung phones. They do make niche metal phones (e.g. Samsung Wave, Omnia) and plenty in the past, so its not a matter of lack of experience. They are luring me back in with Adobe RGB mode. Now how about a metal version? If its the problem of yields, you can make it a slight premium and sell it online only. Everyone else who doesn't care about the plastic build can be happy with their GS4, while those of us who want a premium metal phone can eat our cake too!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why ranting all over the place, your post is way out of topic and just inappropriate for this thread. There are in fact other threads for such complaints. This is Android world of options bro, if Samsung device doesn't meet your needs, I think you will be better with other competing devices.
Thanks.
@OP, sorry for the off topic.

Re: [PHOTOS] The Galaxy S4 user photos and camera discussion thread
Could someone here advise re camera please.
I originally had a 3gs and now had a GS2 since release and prefer android but I have missed some things from apple.
1. When I make a video from video camera for what ever length and I want to email or mms it it would say video too long and then let you trim it to an acceptable size file to send. So far I cannot see any android phone that does this including SGS4 ? The htc one does have a clever trim option and was wondering what gs4 has as still on the fence
Forgot the other thing ?
Custom Stock Rom 4.1 Eternity
Brilliantly Stock

Re: [PHOTOS] The Galaxy S4 user photos and camera discussion thread
I found it here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23nQyOpixiU&feature=youtube_gdata_player
but am hoping samsung can do this too ? Anyone know as my wife has s3 I have s2 and they don't have this feature
Custom Stock Rom 4.1 Eternity
Brilliantly Stock

the Vid rec On GS4 seems suck
lets hope the final version will be better
http://www.gsmarena.com/vidcmp.php3?idType=3&idPhone1=5125&idPhone2=3621&idPhone3=4238
http://www.gsmarena.com/vidcmp.php3?idType=3&idPhone1=5125&idPhone2=5204&idPhone3=4238

nice !!

Didn't like S7 Edge at all.

I have used LG G3 for 2 years then after 1 week of Lg G4 usage found out its battery is thrash ordered myself a 2017 barcoded Samsung G935F.
7.0 Nougat update completed.
Pros:
Good battery endurance.
Does not overheat easily.
Thin and light.
Cons:
Impossible to type while laying in bed or armchair bcs there is no palmguard so you keep pressing home or back button during typing.
Camera isnt better than a g3 or g4 as quality wise.
Fingerprint does not work perfectly.
There is no sound volume slider in drop down menu this sucks as hell.
Most apps and websites are not edge screen compatible so you end up sliding page left or right to read.
Does not have hardware for remote controlling.
Flashlight isnt bright enough.
I am open to suggestions as long as they are meaningful.

fatihso said:
I have used LG G3 for 2 years then after 1 week of Lg G4 usage found out its battery is thrash ordered myself a 2017 barcoded Samsung G935F.
7.0 Nougat update completed.
Pros:
Good battery endurance.
Does not overheat easily.
Thin and light.
Cons:
Impossible to type while laying in bed or armchair bcs there is no palmguard so you keep pressing home or back button during typing.
Camera isnt better than a g3 or g4 as quality wise.
Fingerprint does not work perfectly.
There is no sound volume slider in drop down menu this sucks as hell.
Most apps and websites are not edge screen compatible so you end up sliding page left or right to read.
Does not have hardware for remote controlling.
Flashlight isnt bright enough.
I am open to suggestions as long as they are meaningful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry but post lost credibility if ur trying to say a g3 or g4 camera is better then the S7..(laughing out loud)..I'm not a huge S7 fan either but the camera is lightyears ahead of a g3/4..
Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

Palmguard-Good case will greatly help.
I found fingerprint sensor to work well as long as I set it up properly.(follow the instructions letter to letter and do not change the angle during setup)
Sound volume slider is always there for me or did I misunderstood you?? carrier firmware??
Not sure what you mean by not edge compatible. Website and apps work the same way as any flat screen with just a little distortion on the edge but doesn't affect any usability since it's still visible and readable.
Flashlight have 5 level of brightness and level 5 are super bright I start to worry it will burn. Maybe you're on level 1.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

electech13 said:
Sorry but post lost credibility if ur trying to say a g3 or g4 camera is better then the S7..(laughing out loud)..I'm not a huge S7 fan either but the camera is lightyears ahead of a g3/4..
Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. I have recorded (default settings, did not touch anything) my sister and dad next to sofa and with G4 and S7 in a row and then streamed video to UHD TV, both looked same except S7 was zoomed in so I disabled stabilizator in options and streamed again. It was same quality. Lights, colors everything.
NonXtreme said:
Palmguard-Good case will greatly help.
I found fingerprint sensor to work well as long as I set it up properly.(follow the instructions letter to letter and do not change the angle during setup)
Sound volume slider is always there for me or did I misunderstood you?? carrier firmware??
Not sure what you mean by not edge compatible. Website and apps work the same way as any flat screen with just a little distortion on the edge but doesn't affect any usability since it's still visible and readable.
Flashlight have 5 level of brightness and level 5 are super bright I start to worry it will burn. Maybe you're on level 1.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply.
Fingerprint reader is too fast to judge I guess, I had to re-apply adding finger process several times to make it working more properly.
When I surf the web, some websites' texts are starting from the very edge screen (left) so I can't read first letters of comments or titles. Not sure how to fix that or those websites need to fix it. This does not happen in apps like Youtube or Facebook, must be optimized already.
Sound slider it is shown when I use hardware sound buttons but I would love to see it also next to brightness slider when I drag down the top menu like in LG. I am not allowed to post an image url yet.
This model isn't customized by any carrier and more like an international unit. Only samsung apps are pre-installed.
I didn't know there was levels for brightness, I will check it out and thank you for that. Hope that level is auto applied also to Flashlight shortcut when I enable it.
My biggest problem is to be able to use phone while laying in bed, holding phone on air and typing, some of my hand have to touch hardware buttons and its not solved yet.
I think I need a case to have more space for holding phone on air and type properly.
Thank you guys for your comments. I have searched the web and did not find much about these worries so I had to make a thread.

you know nothing john snow

@fatihso
Sorry. Respectfully Disagree with you..
I`m using this device for almost one year. I don`t have these isssues (specially regarding camera). I`m happy with this device.

+ for the volume slider in notifications! I have it on my ipad but I have to press a physical button on my phone.

I think he's not wrong on that camera part. Believe me I love this phone and its camera. I had a 6P and Note 4 before. Even though I was sure the S7 captured much better pics, lately when I compared 6P and S7, I found the 6P doing better at post processing with HDR mode. S7 oversharpens images and it looks quite horrible sometimes, specially portraits.
And about the clarity thing, yeah 12 megapixels vs 16 megapixels. It shows when zoomed in. But overall S7 camera is much better than other smartphones (taking in consideration video, low light, pro mode etc).
I think in daylight the G4 may take better pics cos of higher resolution (visible when viewed on a bigger screen). Not sure because haven't used a G4 before.

G4 pro mode doesn't compare with s7 edge...try take a pic at midnight with G4 In pro mode at 30s and one with s7 edge at 10s..see who takes it better...LG?

Obvious troll is obvious.

I have this phone for over one year now,its a great phone,but I would like to make my observation about the camera quality too:
its a great camera for scenes for sure, but for human faces, from a bit distance, will blow them out of proportion due to its large pixels letting in too much light in bright conditions.
And also I miss the volume control from the drop down menu without pressing the hardware keys.
everything else is great and I love it a lot.

I have s7 edge for a year now.
Your cons are funny
1) It is possible, maybe you have small hands, that thing doesnt happens to me.
2) Camera is ok, comparing it to g3 is...idk it's silly.
3) If you set up 4x fingerprints 2x left 2x right, make sure you swipe it in all directions. Mine works much better than on marshmallow, 99% of the time.
4) In dropdown menu, you have ringtone, media, notifications and system tones. Where is a problem there?
5) I am using UC browser, no problems in web surfing.
6) IC port missing, the only one annoying thing for me, cant use it as a remote control sometimes.
7) You have free edge app where you can adjust level of flashlight.
The biggest problem for me is the battery after one year. It's capacity is much smaller, and SOT isn't as good when I bought it.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

OMG troll kiddie
camera not good LOL

I love the phone but I will admit the camera is no where near as good as my g4.
But I do prefer the s7 edge because it doesn't bootloop. Lol.
Only joking . Apart from the camera the s7 edge is better in every way .

NonXtreme said:
Palmguard-Good case will greatly help.
I found fingerprint sensor to work well as long as I set it up properly.(follow the instructions letter to letter and do not change the angle during setup)
Sound volume slider is always there for me or did I misunderstood you?? carrier firmware??
Not sure what you mean by not edge compatible. Website and apps work the same way as any flat screen with just a little distortion on the edge but doesn't affect any usability since it's still visible and readable.
Flashlight have 5 level of brightness and level 5 are super bright I start to worry it will burn. Maybe you're on level 1.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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On the finger print sensor, I set both thumbs and both index fingers with multiple angles so I can unlock the phone without having to line up my fingers every time. Other than wet or dirty fingers I haven't had any issues at all. I'm even going to set my touch screen bike gloves as a finger print so I can unlock it when I ride too.

Thank you for replies guys,
It's been like 5 days and I am getting used to the phone. I still don't have any case or alike.
I still have problem typing while on bed. It's not going to be solved without a case to stop my hand touching bottom of the phone while typing in air. My hands are big.
Camera, it has a good camera but in my 1st post I mentioned I recorded a video and then streamed it to TV and I didn't see any difference so it was based on that. I didn't see its worse or better, it felt the same output.
I still would love a volume slider in drop down menu without pressing hardware button. Helps alot if your phone is on table and during watching videos/playing games, you won't need to hold phone and press volume button. Also double tap to lock/unlock phone. I tried some apps but they felt like draining battery after giving them administrative permissions to monitor system.
Anyway, thanks again for your comments.

You had it for 5 days. Man you aren't allowed to speak anything, please.... Use Nova Launcher, standard launcher is annoying. There you can use double tap to lock the phone. And for using it in bed, you just don't know how to.
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vojopd said:
And for using it in bed, you just don't know how to.
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Maybe he should play with something else than his phone in bed to get some experience.

S7 edge has one for the best camera in any smartphone, G3 G4 aren't even near

gabytzubc said:
G4 pro mode doesn't compare with s7 edge...try take a pic at midnight with G4 In pro mode at 30s and one with s7 edge at 10s..see who takes it better...LG
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The s7 camera is decent but it's clearly optimised for low light with a 1.7 aperture where it is superb.
It's all about compromising and Samsung has probably quite rightly assumed that most folks will snap their sprogs and pets often in less than ideal conditions.
As an enthsiast I have taken some great shots and provided links before but I admit that 12mp on a fixed lens camera may be inadequate if you want to crop or print a little larger. Samsungs own S6 resolves better in good light thanks to 16 mp.
I haven't read up about the S8 camera yet but it uses algorithm to supposedly improve.
That's not enough for me so I see if the Note 8 brings something useful to the table (not just camera wise) to make me upgrade. If not its the next iphone or the S9.
Very happy with the S7 otherwise in every respect.

Screen banding/distortion in dark videos

I just got my pixel 2 today, and I noticed that when I watch a dark video where there are some lighter sections in a black area, the lighter sections appear totally blown out/distorted.
For example, in the following video, the black curtain behind the stage has lighter sections that appear distorted on my phone. They almost look pixelated. This video looks terrible on the pixel 2:
(Note: make sure to see the video to the highest resolution)
https://youtu.be/H-5gWJYzCMw
Is this happening to anyone else, or did I just get a bad panel? If I watch that video on my Nexus 5x, it looks fine.

That's a very poorly encoded highly compressed video. There are huge artefacts clearly visible on my QHD calibrated monitor. I think you should find some newer videos to better judge the screen.

Minos20vt said:
That's a very poorly encoded highly compressed video. There are huge artefacts clearly visible on my QHD calibrated monitor. I think you should find some newer videos to better judge the screen.
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I knew it wasn't the highest quality video (although it is awesome), I was just shocked how much better it looked on my other devices. The reason I played it first was because it was at the top of my recently played list, but I should have known it wasn't a good example. Thanks for testing it on another monitor.
I can see the same kind of thing on certain scenes in the new The Last Jedi trailer, but since the quality is a lot higher, it is barely noticable. I really have to look to see it, which seems acceptable to me. https://youtu.be/Q0CbN8sfihY

jonnale said:
I knew it wasn't the highest quality video (although it is awesome), I was just shocked how much better it looked on my other devices. The reason I played it first was because it was at the top of my recently played list, but I should have known it wasn't a good example. Thanks for testing it on another monitor.
I can see the same kind of thing on certain scenes in the new The Last Jedi trailer, but since the quality is a lot higher, it is barely noticable. I really have to look to see it, which seems acceptable to me. https://youtu.be/Q0CbN8sfihY
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If you want to check for banding, don't use a video. Use solid colours... Feel free to use the ones here: http://www.nullabletype.co.uk/static/styles/blah.html . No need to install anything, just go to them in a browser and scroll to see different colours and grey scales. If you screen isn't uniform, they'll be visible. I'd check in a dark room with various screen brightness levels.
I currently don't have any gradient ones to try with, but you can probably find some greyscale/colour gradients to play with online.

https://www.reddit.com/r/GooglePixel/comments/77cax8/pixel_2_black_crush_issue_pic_xpost_from/