[Q] Help. My tf300 is dead - Transformer TF300T Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

1. I dropped the tablet from approximately 50cm above a hard surface.
2. Initially, I thought it was no big deal, so I proceed to try turning it on.
3. Something was odd; the tablet did not boot at all. It's NOT stuck on Asus logo. All I can see was black screen, completely unresponsive.
4. So I tried to hold power for 30sec, reset, hold reset for 30sec... nothing worked. :crying:
5. I figured, 'something must have gone wrong with the hardware when it dropped'.
6. Thus, I opened the tablet & carefully tried to find out what went wrong. (And I really hope I didn't break it even more in the process...)
7. And here I am stuck with no more idea.
WHAT I FOUND OUT:
LED indicator flashes twice when I press power or when I connect charger. Edit: It only flashes twice if I have charger connected. Nothing happens if it's disconnected from charger.
PC does not recognize tf300.
I have no warranty.
Please help me. Thank you!

Aqueouss said:
1. I dropped the tablet from approximately 50cm above a hard surface.
2. Initially, I thought it was no big deal, so I proceed to try turning it on.
3. Something was odd; the tablet did not boot at all. It's NOT stuck on Asus logo. All I can see was black screen, completely unresponsive.
4. So I tried to hold power for 30sec, reset, hold reset for 30sec... nothing worked. :crying:
5. I figured, 'something must have gone wrong with the hardware when it dropped'.
6. Thus, I opened the tablet & carefully tried to find out what went wrong. (And I really hope I didn't break it even more in the process...)
7. And here I am stuck with no more idea.
WHAT I FOUND OUT:
LED indicator flashes twice when I press power or when I connect charger. Edit: It only flashes twice if I have charger connected. Nothing happens if it's disconnected from charger.
PC does not recognize tf300.
I have no warranty.
Please help me. Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not much to go from, but it sounds like the battery is disconnected.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk 2

elesbb said:
Not much to go from, but it sounds like the battery is disconnected.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. I thought about that, too. But I cannot do anything because I have no idea which connector is which...
Can you anybody tell me where the disconnection might be? (location of battery related port?)

Aqueouss said:
Thank you. I thought about that, too. But I cannot do anything because I have no idea which connector is which...
Can you anybody tell me where the disconnection might be? (location of battery related port?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is a couple of things you can do, it already does not work so what the hell, it can't get any worse. Drink two shots of Grey Goose and check out these links.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Disassembling+Asus+tf300+Tablet/11794/1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8
Good Luck!!
Erik

ricco333 said:
Here is a couple of things you can do, it already does not work so what the hell, it can't get any worse. Drink two shots of Grey Goose and check out these links.
Good Luck!!
Erik
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, I fixed it!
I simply disconnected the battery connector and reconnected it, and everything magically started working again :victory:

I seem to have the same issue
elesbb said:
Not much to go from, but it sounds like the battery is disconnected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ricco333 said:
Here is a couple of things you can do, it already does not work so what the hell, it can't get any worse. Drink two shots of Grey Goose and check out these links.
links removed
Good Luck!!
Erik
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aqueouss said:
Thank you, I fixed it!
I simply disconnected the battery connector and reconnected it, and everything magically started working again :victory:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi guys, I am having a similar problem. My device won't turn on unless the charger is connected. The battery display says 94% but if I unplug it, it immediately shuts off. It is like using a laptop with no battery connected, being powered by the charger only. I think it might be the same case as the OP here?
Well, looking at the photo tutorial and the video, I am still unsure about the exact location of the battery connector. Could you point it out more clearly for me? My tablet is out of warranty and I'd like to give it a shot at DIY, but taking the least possible risks.
Thanks!!

rmvieira said:
Hi guys, I am having a similar problem. My device won't turn on unless the charger is connected. The battery display says 94% but if I unplug it, it immediately shuts off. It is like using a laptop with no battery connected, being powered by the charger only. I think it might be the same case as the OP here?
Well, looking at the photo tutorial and the video, I am still unsure about the exact location of the battery connector. Could you point it out more clearly for me? My tablet is out of warranty and I'd like to give it a shot at DIY, but taking the least possible risks.
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's located underneath the copper shield. You need to lift it off to see. The connector is visible in plain sight. Just follow the wires coming out of the battery. But if you're still under warranty and don't want to break the seal, you can resort to Asus customer service.

graphdarnell said:
It's located underneath the copper shield. You need to lift it off to see. The connector is visible in plain sight. Just follow the wires coming out of the battery. But if you're still under warranty and don't want to break the seal, you can resort to Asus customer service.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I will take a look at it tonight as it is just outside the warranty period
Hopefully this will solve the problem. I will post back when I try.

graphdarnell said:
It's located underneath the copper shield. You need to lift it off to see. The connector is visible in plain sight. Just follow the wires coming out of the battery. But if you're still under warranty and don't want to break the seal, you can resort to Asus customer service.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I tried disconnecting and re-connecting the battery connector, but it didn't work. To make things worth, the touch screen is no longer working. I am getting desperate... Can you point me in the right direction for, at least, getting the screen to work again?

rmvieira said:
Well I tried disconnecting and re-connecting the battery connector, but it didn't work. To make things worth, the touch screen is no longer working. I am getting desperate... Can you point me in the right direction for, at least, getting the screen to work again?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, don't panic just yet. Try to remember if you'd done anything (flashing, loading or playing around with software) or anything had happened (tab drop etc...) before the tab started acting up. AFAIK, the TS board doesn't fail that often, but is fragile and thus prone to physical damage, especially the connectors and cables. The least movement in the wrong direction would wreck it. Pushing the cables in at the wrong angle would bend the pins beyond repair, to give you an idea. And you should've disconnected the battery or turned the service mode switch off before even touching anything.
At this point, my guess is either the battery is dead (not charging)*, or some weird software is screwing up the reading. Apparently, the main circuitry is intact since you can turn the tab on with the charger attached. If you can access recovery, and assuming you have CWM (TWRP requires touch), you can try wiping the battery stats.
Regarding the touch screen, there are a few possibilities. Check the surface of the mainboard if there's anything that's burned. Check the cables to make sure you did not displace any of them while pulling or pushing the battery connector. If you reconnect the cable or boards make they are seated correctly. Don't pull on the amber ribbons coming out of the digitizer. Last time I checked, the green part pasted to the face of the touchscreen can detach with the force you use to peel a protective screen off your tab. I kid you not. Above all, do not force a cable in, do not snap them in. They should slide in easy if you do it at the right angle. If nothing is damaged, I wouldn't worry too much about it now.
If you have access to a keyboard, you can go into the /etc/firmware/touch/ folder to see what's in there. This only shows the correct info if you're on stock rom. Then note the model of the touchscreen printed on the white sticker on the ribbons.
Again, turn the service switch off first.
* not charging could be caused by the battery itself or the chip controlling it on the mainboard. But we want to examine the obvious first.

wow this trend really old.
...just rediscovered my old asus transformer n upgraded it android 7 and gave it to my niece...
lonq story short she dropped it. and now the device dead. I opened it and reconnected the battery and still the screen looks dead.
when I connect it to the laptop, windows detects it and even shows it's charging
... did I miss something or? everything looked connected when I opened it
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Related

[Q] Need help with BRICK will donate for solution

I apologize for starting a new thread for this but I'm dying here! I have been reading all the bricked captivate tales of woe for 2 days straight and I have tried all the button combinations till my fingers feel like they are going to bleed. If somebody can help me with this mess I would gladly donate to the beer fund for their trouble.
This is my second go round with paperweight style captivate but I'm lost now. The first time I was visited by the phone-!-computer image but I had no problem getting it into download mode by removing battery,sim, and external sd then replacing battery holding down both volume buttons down (no power button) and inserting usb cable(odin one click was already running on my pc). I flashed back to stock twice with this method and no issues. The first time was to load cognition and the second time was after messing with some mods my phone started lagging horribly bad.
I guess I got a little cocky this last go round and was messing around with ninja morph(no issues there) then I loaded a market app called Galaxy S Tweaker. I made a few tweaks with the app and went to reboot, subsequently my phone will now get stuck on the white ATT boot screen.
As previously stated I have tried all variations of button combinations to no avail. The only 2 screens I see are the battery charging screen and this dreadful white AT&T screen.
Is there anything I can do to get my computer to recognize my phone and/or get into download mode.
Please and Thank You!!
Have you tried adb commands? Such as 'adb reboot download'
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=775911
Try what's at the top and report back. Should work... otherwise there's the usb jig
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
CB650 Wolf said:
Have you tried adb commands? Such as 'adb reboot download'
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am having issues trying adb. I have everything installed but I think I made an error when updating my path and overwrote the existing text so that the only thing in the path is the location of adb. I get an error every time I try to run it
ronandi said:
Try what's at the top and report back. Should work... otherwise there's the usb jig
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have tried several times I just end up going back and forth between the white screen with AT&T logo and the battery charging screen
micjenks said:
The first time I was visited by the phone-!-computer image but I had no problem getting it into download mode by removing battery,sim, and external sd then replacing battery holding down both volume buttons down (no power button) and inserting usb cable(odin one click was already running on my pc).
As previously stated I have tried all variations of button combinations to no avail. The only 2 screens I see are the battery charging screen and this dreadful white AT&T screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you did originally should work again, keep trying, if you had usb debugging enabled try the adb reboot download method. What error is adb giving you anyway?
uninstall the sdk completely. Reinstall it into a folder and do not move anything out of the folder. I keep mine in C:/Users\[user name]\sdk.
Hey there, im pretty new to Android myself and had a very similar issue :S
It seems like you have lost your three button combo, which was exactly what happened to my poor Captivate, the "USB jig" was the only method I found that could put my phone in to download mode, if you search the forums there is a pretty decent walk through on how to do it!
Basically, as long as you have some skill with a soldering iron and a micro USB cable to cut up you can do it pretty quickly. I bought the resistors from a local computer store (you need 301k resistance) and used a scalpel to cut the plastic from the end of the cable, then soldered the resistors to the 4th and 5th pins in series. Once you have done that, plug the cable in to your computer and fire up Odin, the connect your Cappy and presto, download mode!
Honestly when I saw the instructions to build the jig I was skeptical, but since I exhausted every other option first (and had already voided my warranty obviously) I decided to give it a shot and it worked like a charm!
Give it a try and let us know how it goes!
CB650 Wolf said:
uninstall the sdk completely. Reinstall it into a folder and do not move anything out of the folder. I keep mine in C:/Users\[user name]\sdk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
should I remove it from the environmental variables path first and then replace it? do I need to remove it from eclipse as well before I reinstall it?
ADB keeps telling me device not found
Try a different usb port, preferably ones at the back of the motherboard.
peachpuff said:
Try a different usb port, preferably ones at the back of the motherboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done that, initially I had to move to the back to get it to work with odin
Edit: Can anyone link me to the solder jig how to? I found the solder-less i-go thread but wanted to look at both before I head off to radio shack and potentially the liquor store depending on how this goes..... going back to my BlackBerry sounds about as appetizing as a warm bath and razor blades. I've had my Captivate for 2 weeks and I'm already spoiled on Android goodness
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=872476
This is the solder-less method, however the only difference is that in the above thread, he didn't use solder to connect the resistors, it should work exactly the same! Otherwise you can simply solder the resistors in series to the exact same spots and you are good to go
Ok well I am off to radio shack to test my luck with this. will report back with the results...... wife has already informed me there is no way in hell I am buying another one so pray for me lol
Rofl well in that case my prayers are with you! If you need any help with it feel free to PM me.
ugh I have to go back to radio shack.... one of the wires broke off while stripping it, I tried touching the resistors to it anyway but it's not working so I am going to give it another shot. If that doesn't work I ordered one from norcal einstein..... this sucks!
micjenks said:
ugh I have to go back to radio shack.... one of the wires broke off while stripping it, I tried touching the resistors to it anyway but it's not working so I am going to give it another shot. If that doesn't work I ordered one from norcal einstein..... this sucks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Although mine has never been this bad, the fear of it happening has always been in the forefront of my mind.
Your wife sounds alot like mine. In that case, much good luck coming your way from here.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
LOL I have been pushing my luck a bit lately considering I got a BlackBerry Torch in August (Piece of Sh*t). I have been developing BlackBerry themes for the last 2 years and am transitioning to Android.... gonna be hard without an operational device lol
Did you get everything to make your jig?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
I believe so.... trying to peel this damn silicone stuff off without ripping any wires off this time(got a spare igo adapter this time just in case)
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It ain't Purdy but it's B-E-A-UTIFUL!!!!!

My Touchstone charging case hack [UPDATE: Not Recommended]

IMPORTANT UPDATE: After a month of running this, I have concluded that the Palm components are not compatible with this phone. I was getting frequent reboots and eventually some instability of my phone. A couple of times my phone went temporarily dead and would not revive until I plugged it into the wall. I'm leaving this up in case others want to try it, but be aware you may be asking for trouble.
Lots of people have hacked the Palm Touchstone inductive charging setup for their phones, but I've seen nothing specific for the One XL. I used this thread by android94301 to get started. It's good for background and applies for the One X up until he starts putting it in the SIII back. Go and read the OP, as I won't repeat much of it.
I used the charging case approach because I did not want to open up my phone or make any permanent modifications to it. I wanted something simple, removable, and non-destructive. I used a TPU case because a) it's flexible enough to accomodate the charging coil and b) it's what I had. Plenty of other cases ought to work.
I would not advise attempting this project unless you're pretty handy with a soldering iron. You have to solder all the parts together or your won't get a good connection, and it's hard enough even then.
The Touchstone base will not work with a phone charging cord or the USB port in your computer because it needs more than 0.5A. It will, however, work with a tablet charger--at least it worked with my Nexus 7 charger--so if you've got a spare, you can save a few bucks and use that.
What you'll need:
-a charging back from a Pre or Pixi--I used the Pixi; be aware the Pre coil has the polarity reversed.
-a soldering iron
-some thin wire. I used two different colors to keep the polarity straight.
-some method of keeping the leads in contact with the pogo connectors.
-a multimeter to check your work. You'll want to repeatedly check whether you're getting 5V from the charging coil, because it needs to be aligned correctly with the base.
-a utility knife, wire cutters, and small needle nosed pliers
1. Start by carefully removing the coil assembly from the back. Peel the tape off, and keep the silver tape--you'll need it later. Using a sharp knife, very carefully pry the coil up from the adhesive. Pry out the four metal discs (be careful here--the Pixi back is quite flimsy, and I ended up punching the precision screwdriver I was using through the back and into my finger).
2. Once you've got everything free, place the case on the base and arrange the coil and discs so everything is in position. Check voltage with your multimeter. (Note: I ended up reversing the arrangement of the coil in the final version--it doesn't make a difference which way it goes.)
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3. On the copper tape attached to the coil, you'll see two square contacts. Solder a wire to each one. On the Pixi, the contact at the end is + and the other one is -. Note that in this photo, red is + and black is -.
4. This should take you 10 minutes, tops. Now comes the tough part. By far the hardest part of this hack was getting a good connection with the pogo contacts. I came up with a workable approach, but you may want to try something else. Whatever it is, it needs to keep pressure on the leads to keep them in contact. Simply taping the leads to the contacts does not work, however.
What you see here is a piece of circuit board cut from an old 2.5" SATA hard drive adapter. I used it to fabricate a little pogo pin board by removing all but two of the connecters with my soldering iron. I pushed the remaining two through the board a bit further after melting the solder, then soldered the leads to the pins. You may note that the wires are reversed from the previous photo--this is because I accidentally soldered them in the wrong arrangement on the board, and immediately after this realization, the black wire broke off the coil. So I just unsoldered the red one and reattached them so the board would get the correct polarity. Again, check your work throughout this process to be sure you're getting a charge at the final connection.
5. Tape or hot glue everything into place. I taped my pogo board directly onto my phone just to make it easier.
This isn't quite the final product. I'm going to move it to an opaque case, and I'm going to try shaving down the pins on the pogo board because it's a bit thicker than I'd like. Still, it all works.
hmm, your images are broken.
Or they require a dropbox account I guess.
qberty said:
hmm, your images are broken.
Or they require a dropbox account I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, that sucks.
That might explain why no one replied lol.
I've done the same thing ( buy a touchstone and a pre back)
I've gotten to the stage that the circuit board is removed from the phone back and I've soldered on 2 wires.
I'm having real difficulty trying to get a reliable connection to the pogo pins as they are so small and in a stupid place!
Would really like to see your photos to give me some inspiration but I can't. Any ideas?
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app
tinytom21 said:
I've done the same thing ( buy a touchstone and a pre back)
I've gotten to the stage that the circuit board is removed from the phone back and I've soldered on 2 wires.
I'm having real difficulty trying to get a reliable connection to the pogo pins as they are so small and in a stupid place!
Would really like to see your photos to give me some inspiration but I can't. Any ideas?
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going to try to fix the links. I thought they were working because I can see them fine, but that's probably because I'm logged into Dropbox.
Edit: I think they're fixed. Someone let me know if they're still broken.
Their fixed, I can see them clearly. A question on inductive charging... It's wireless charging right but what is it charging from? In the last picture I don't see a pad or anything
WhatTheAndroid? said:
It's wireless charging right but what is it charging from? In the last picture I don't see a pad or anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Touchstone base. It's actually quite small. Maybe 2" round and 1" high. Not much bigger than the coil in the first pic.
Someone who knows what there doing should make some of these and sell em.
Sent from my One X using xda app-developers app
dustinhayes93 said:
Someone who knows what there doing should make some of these and sell em.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It wouldn't be that hard. You can get pins that are designed for pogo contacts for next to nothing, and building a little contact board for them wouldn't be complicated. I just went with what I had because I didn't feel like waiting on another parts order.
Update:
After a week or so on this thing, I'm mostly happy but I have noticed one interesting thing. It charges fine up to around 90-05%, but it simply won't charge to full. Once it gets over 90% or so, it starts waking up every few minutes but never gets to 100%.
I think what may be going on is that the chip controlling the voltage from the induction coil is not completely optimized for this phone (which should hardly be surprising). So when it goes to trickle charge as it gets close to being full, the chip gets confused and stops the current, then kicks it back on when the phone keeps drawing on it. This causes the phone to wake up as the charges goes off and back on again. This cycle keeps repeating, thus preventing it from ever reaching full charge.
It's not a big deal for me as the difference between 100% and 95% is not that significant. Still, if you like everything to work perfectly, this may not be the mod for you.
iElvis said:
Update:
After a week or so on this thing, I'm mostly happy but I have noticed one interesting thing. It charges fine up to around 90-05%, but it simply won't charge to full. Once it gets over 90% or so, it starts waking up every few minutes but never gets to 100%.
I think what may be going on is that the chip controlling the voltage from the induction coil is not completely optimized for this phone (which should hardly be surprising). So when it goes to trickle charge as it gets close to being full, the chip gets confused and stops the current, then kicks it back on when the phone keeps drawing on it. This causes the phone to wake up as the charges goes off and back on again. This cycle keeps repeating, thus preventing it from ever reaching full charge.
It's not a big deal for me as the difference between 100% and 95% is not that significant. Still, if you like everything to work perfectly, this may not be the mod for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you see the phone flipping between charging and not charging? I wonder if that's what I was seeing when I tried it on my phone. I was always nearly fully charged. I wasn't sure if it was my phone being picky or if there was something wrong with the charger. Same thing happens in my car charger too.
Valohtar said:
Do you see the phone flipping between charging and not charging? I wonder if that's what I was seeing when I tried it on my phone. I was always nearly fully charged. I wasn't sure if it was my phone being picky or if there was something wrong with the charger. Same thing happens in my car charger too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't watched it closely enough. It just seems to wake up repeatedly while sitting next to me on my desk.
Okay no worries, I'll try it again when the battery is a bit lower and see if it responds.
So no dice on the low battery test. I guess my phone is just picky
I tried this afternoon. In fact, it rebooted when I left it on the battery screen to see what would happen. I've had this happen more than once, and I'm starting to suspect the mod is responsible. It only happens when the phone gets up to 95% or so.
I would be careful about that car charger, if it seems to be inducing issues. At least two people I know of have had their phones hard brick while on their car charger.
Ok i purchased all the necessary items, but my Coil is different from the one you have in the pics.
take a look,
so i am a bit confused.
anyone able to help
rinnycoop121 said:
Ok i purchased all the necessary items, but my Coil is different from the one you have in the pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that a Pre back? Looks like the power contacts are those two metal squares on the right.
Hi i'm sorry but it looks like the images are broken again. Can you maybe email them to me/pm or something? Really want to try this out...
This seems fairly straightforward
However, did you consider putting the coil in the actual One XL body? I have no idea how thick the coil and/or controlboard is, so I have no idea if that would even fit remotely.
It would also solve the pogopin problem, as there are some pads you can solder to (where the pogopin board is) inside the casing.
I just hate cases
piotrus22 said:
Hi i'm sorry but it looks like the images are broken again. Can you maybe email them to me/pm or something? Really want to try this out...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, I checked on another computer that's not connected to Dropbox and they're still there. Might be on your end. Anyone else not seeing them?

[Q] M8 No longer charging. Any options?

I bought the M8 six months ago and loved it to death. Nothing was wrong with the phone.
Suddenly the battery quit taking a charge from any charger plugged into it. I went to Verizon to get it resolved but the only option was to send it to a hokey cell phone repair type place who wouldn't give me a quote on the cost to fix it.
I just purchased a new charger port (the board that includes the audio out port and ribbon cable) that will be shipped next week. The phone is already apart and the offending part removed.
Figuring it could be some solder joints that got yanked loose at some point and I was already going to replace the part, I baked the old part at 385 F for 6 minutes. No luck.
Are there any other options for charging my battery? I'm talking physically charging the battery directly. Is this possible? Are there any other options for me to charge this brick until I get my replacement part? Also, is it possible the charger port isn't even my issue?
EDIT: I figure it's important to know this: The phone is completely dead. I can't get anything at all to show on the screen. No charging light. Power+Volume up for any length of time does nothing, as does power+volume up+volume down.
JMShoots said:
I bought the M8 six months ago and loved it to death. Nothing was wrong with the phone.
Suddenly the battery quit taking a charge from any charger plugged into it. I went to Verizon to get it resolved but the only option was to send it to a hokey cell phone repair type place who wouldn't give me a quote on the cost to fix it.
I just purchased a new charger port (the board that includes the audio out port and ribbon cable) that will be shipped next week. The phone is already apart and the offending part removed.
Figuring it could be some solder joints that got yanked loose at some point and I was already going to replace the part, I baked the old part at 385 F for 6 minutes. No luck.
Are there any other options for charging my battery? I'm talking physically charging the battery directly. Is this possible? Are there any other options for me to charge this brick until I get my replacement part? Also, is it possible the charger port isn't even my issue?
EDIT: I figure it's important to know this: The phone is completely dead. I can't get anything at all to show on the screen. No charging light. Power+Volume up for any length of time does nothing, as does power+volume up+volume down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Call HTC and get it fixed under warranty.
beaups said:
Call HTC and get it fixed under warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brought it to Verizon a week ago. No warranty through them because of case scratches. Do you think HTC would be any different?
JMShoots said:
Brought it to Verizon a week ago. No warranty through them because of case scratches. Do you think HTC would be any different?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably. Either way your gonna need to get it fixed.
JMShoots said:
I bought the M8 six months ago and loved it to death. Nothing was wrong with the phone.
Suddenly the battery quit taking a charge from any charger plugged into it. I went to Verizon to get it resolved but the only option was to send it to a hokey cell phone repair type place who wouldn't give me a quote on the cost to fix it.
I just purchased a new charger port (the board that includes the audio out port and ribbon cable) that will be shipped next week. The phone is already apart and the offending part removed.
Figuring it could be some solder joints that got yanked loose at some point and I was already going to replace the part, I baked the old part at 385 F for 6 minutes. No luck.
Are there any other options for charging my battery? I'm talking physically charging the battery directly. Is this possible? Are there any other options for me to charge this brick until I get my replacement part? Also, is it possible the charger port isn't even my issue?
EDIT: I figure it's important to know this: The phone is completely dead. I can't get anything at all to show on the screen. No charging light. Power+Volume up for any length of time does nothing, as does power+volume up+volume down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did it just flat out die one day or did you try charging it while it was still only to notice it not actually charging. If it's totally ran down and you fixed the port, it could take up to twenty minutes until you see the charge light.
dottat said:
Did it just flat out die one day or did you try charging it while it was still only to notice it not actually charging. If it's totally ran down and you fixed the port, it could take up to twenty minutes until you see the charge light.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was having a couple issues a little while back where it would take significant persuasion to get the thing to charge. That's why I figure it's the port. At some point the phone died and since then it hasn't charged. I left it on the charger for over 5 hours hoping to get something. Nope. I haven't replaced the port yet, the new port comes next week. If it's the port I'm all good. In the mean time, I want to know if there's any way I could get this existing junk port to work somehow.
Been without a phone for a week now. Didn't realize how much I needed it until it died.
JMShoots said:
I was having a couple issues a little while back where it would take significant persuasion to get the thing to charge. That's why I figure it's the port. At some point the phone died and since then it hasn't charged. I left it on the charger for over 5 hours hoping to get something. Nope. I haven't replaced the port yet, the new port comes next week. If it's the port I'm all good. In the mean time, I want to know if there's any way I could get this existing junk port to work somehow.
Been without a phone for a week now. Didn't realize how much I needed it until it died.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I took a good look at the teardown of this phone the other day. Did you repeat the ribbon cable once or twice? Look inside for foreign matter? I would recommend against tinkering until you have the new part. The new part is your most logical approach and will be easy to test.
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dottat said:
I took a good look at the teardown of this phone the other day. Did you repeat the ribbon cable once or twice? Look inside for foreign matter? I would recommend against tinkering until you have the new part. The new part is your most logical approach and will be easy to test.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean repeat the cable as in unlatch it, remove it, and relatch it? I did that several times in the process of trying to get the board to work. And do you mean inside as in the inside of where the ribbon cable attaches? I haven't done that but I'll be very surprised if there's anything in there. The port itself is completely clean, not bent, no corrosion.
I'm pretty good with soldering and the like because I did micro-pcb assembling for work a while back and other projects. I'm not scared of tearing this board apart (the charger port board, that is).
Oh, and before I forget, what is that aux clip on the left for? I have two aux cables that attach to my charger port board but on my replacement there's only one. I checked part numbers for my phone but everything I've found says it's compatible.
JMShoots said:
Do you mean repeat the cable as in unlatch it, remove it, and relatch it? I did that several times in the process of trying to get the board to work. And do you mean inside as in the inside of where the ribbon cable attaches? I haven't done that but I'll be very surprised if there's anything in there. The port itself is completely clean, not bent, no corrosion.
I'm pretty good with soldering and the like because I did micro-pcb assembling for work a while back and other projects. I'm not scared of tearing this board apart (the charger port board, that is).
Oh, and before I forget, what is that aux clip on the left for? I have two aux cables that attach to my charger port board but on my replacement there's only one. I checked part numbers for my phone but everything I've found says it's compatible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Freaking spell check got me. Yes reseat. As for debris I meant buried in the usb port itself.
The aux port question...you referring to the two mini-rf connectors?
dottat said:
Freaking spell check got me. Yes reseat. As for debris I meant buried in the usb port itself.
The aux port question...you referring to the two mini-rf connectors?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the black one. There's no clip to seat the connector into on the replacement board. I'd link you to the amazon part I purchased but I can't post links. What is the black one for?
JMShoots said:
Yes, the black one. There's no clip to seat the connector into on the replacement board. I'd link you to the amazon part I purchased but I can't post links. What is the black one for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By the colors and without digging I'm guessing WiFi. . Lemme go look up the board.
dottat said:
By the colors and without digging I'm guessing WiFi. . Lemme go look up the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, nuts. Of course it's something major. Here, I'll link the page without hyperlinking it:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6N4GF2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just by inspection all the brass pieces (if they are brass) could be salvaged and resoldered to the board I bought. The solder pads are all there, they just don't have the part on them.
JMShoots said:
Oh, nuts. Of course it's something major. Here, I'll link the page without hyperlinking it:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6N4GF2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just by inspection all the brass pieces (if they are brass) could be salvaged and resoldered to the board I bought. The solder pads are all there, they just don't have the part on them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well look at it this way... This will let you know if it's the USB port either way.
dottat said:
Well look at it this way... This will let you know if it's the USB port either way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can still cancel the order at this point. Do you know where I can get the correct port from? I've searched everywhere and short of buying overseas and receiving it next month (or later), I haven't found anything at all.
JMShoots said:
I can still cancel the order at this point. Do you know where I can get the correct port from? I've searched everywhere and short of buying overseas and receiving it next month (or later), I haven't found anything at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Out of stock here but right pic. http://www.parts4repair.com/dock-charging-flex-cable-for-htc-one-m8/
---------- Post added at 12:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 AM ----------
JMShoots said:
I can still cancel the order at this point. Do you know where I can get the correct port from? I've searched everywhere and short of buying overseas and receiving it next month (or later), I haven't found anything at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's one from Ali..... They are normally fast to ship...
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/HTC-...ng-Port-USB-Socket-Flex-Cable/2012520456.html
I would probably verify that charge works using the cable you have coming. Then move that connector over. That way you verify the port issue first.
dottat said:
Out of stock here but right pic. http://www.parts4repair.com/dock-charging-flex-cable-for-htc-one-m8/
---------- Post added at 12:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 AM ----------
Here's one from Ali..... They are normally fast to ship...
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/HTC-...ng-Port-USB-Socket-Flex-Cable/2012520456.html
I would probably verify that charge works using the cable you have coming. Then move that connector over. That way you verify the port issue first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really appreciate your help. If I can pick your brain here, do you know of any methods to test if the port is actually busted and it's not a faulty battery? That's before I get the parts, that is.
JMShoots said:
I really appreciate your help. If I can pick your brain here, do you know of any methods to test if the port is actually busted and it's not a faulty battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could remove the cable and plug it into a charger... Then see if you find 5volts of DC on ribbon end. See if power is making in through the cable.
dottat said:
You could remove the cable and plug it into a charger... Then see if you find 5volts of DC on ribbon end. See if power is making in through the cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gotcha, I'll do that. The ribbon has many cables through it. I'm assuming they alternate polarities and I can just pick one cable in the ribbon and test it against another?
JMShoots said:
Gotcha, I'll do that. The ribbon has many cables through it. I'm assuming they alternate polarities and I can just pick one cable in the ribbon and test it against another?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are gonna have to find the right two. I'm sure you can though ☺
dottat said:
You are gonna have to find the right two. I'm sure you can though ☺
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All righty. I'll give it a go. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow. Once again, I appreciate the help.

Is unstability caused by hardware or software issue?

Hello, as mentioned before, sometimes I cannot wake my device. The entire screen is blank. I have to keep pressing the power button many times to turn on the device. Sometimes I have to wait for 30 minutes or more and try again before the device turns on. Few months ago, I took it to Samsung. They said that it was due to a faulty screen. They replaced a new one for me but after about 2-3 weeks, same thing happen.
Recently, for a few days, the device also rebooted by itself like crazy. This happened especially when I used the stock Camera app to take photos. Sometimes it happened when I pressed the Camera app icon. In most cases, this happened when I pressed the button to shoot photo.
Few days ago, the screen brinked a few times and rebooted by itself. Even there were about 30% battery power, at one point it reported 0%. When I plugged the device to the power supply, the problem disappeared and the device charged.
Are these things due to software issue or hardware issue? As you know, the apps update by themselves often.
Info on my device:
SM-P905
Android 4.4.2
Base version: P905XXUANA7
Kernel version: 3.4.0-2454801
[email protected]#1
Fri Aug 8 11:53:36 KST 2014
Build number: KOT49H.P905ZSUANH1
SE Android Status: Enforcing SEPF_SM-P905_4.4.2_0040 Fri Jan 30 17:13:07 2015
petercohen said:
Few days ago, the screen brinked a few times and rebooted by itself. Even there were about 30% battery power, at one point it reported 0%. When I plugged the device to the power supply, the problem disappeared and the device charged.
Are these things due to software issue or hardware issue? As you know, the apps update by themselves often.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery's capacity fluctuation, flickering screen, auto reboot, auto shut down, are common caused by cracked battery connector.
You can inspect the battery connector under magnified glass, push it slightly right or left to see if it's moving. A battery connector with cracked solders will move easily by this test.
A quick rework will take under 5 minutes to melt and add more solders to the 6 pins of battery connector. A repair shop or anyone knows how to solder can help you.
This is what this connector looks like:
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A quick test: slap hard on the back cover with your hand, your tablet will shut down immediately if the battery connector is badly cracked.
Be aware that some depot techs are technical incompetent to troubleshoot or repair a particular issue like this one.
Thanks. I performed the test you described. The tablet did not shut down immediately. I slapped it hard a few times. No shutting down. I suspect it is related to software because the issues seem to have happened in blocks of time. i.e. 1-2 days of problems. No problem. 1-2 days of problems, etc.
petercohen said:
Thanks. I performed the test you described. The tablet did not shut down immediately. I slapped it hard a few times. No shutting down. I suspect it is related to software because the issues seem to have happened in blocks of time. i.e. 1-2 days of problems. No problem. 1-2 days of problems, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The quick test I mentioned only work with badly loose battery connector, the one that can lift off easily or move if pushed. Other cases, cracked solders cause intermittent power or quick discharge or running hot battery. Your intermittent problems could be some pins have crack but not all of them.
Believe me or not, this is not software but hardware problem common seen in Galaxy Note and others, I try to point to the right direction but it's up to you to figure out.
I had no problem with my device for a few weeks. Recently, very often the device restarted when I pressed the built-in camera app. Don't you think this is a software problem?
petercohen said:
I had no problem with my device for a few weeks. Recently, very often the device restarted when I pressed the built-in camera app. Don't you think this is a software problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The easiest way to verify, back up then reset your tablet. If problem starts again with fresh system, this is not software but hardware problem.
However, flickering screen and auto reboot is not software. These problems often cause by cracked battery connector.
You need to read the " Flickering " thread to see what is the source of your problem. In this forum, it has more than 30,000 views and another forum ( Android Central ), it has more than 100,000 views. These numbers will tell, you are not the only one to have it.
I found that when the battery level is low, the device flickering and reboot by itself like crazy.
petercohen said:
I found that when the battery level is low, the device flickering and reboot by itself like crazy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the only way to convince you this is not software problem: take the back cover off when battery is low, pressing directly on the battery connector, the flickering screen will stop immediately. Another user followed my advice, applied pressure on the battery connector helped his tablet to boot.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=63123548&postcount=7
Hello, I cannot take the cover off. What is the best way to do it without damaging the device? From some online videos, it looks like there are some kind of plastic tool?
petercohen said:
Hello, I cannot take the cover off. What is the best way to do it without damaging the device? From some online videos, it looks like there are some kind of plastic tool?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pry and lift, you can take the back out easily
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeSG0hHpAG8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdctusUVv_E
Beut said:
Pry and lift, you can take the back out easily
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeSG0hHpAG8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I saw this video. Where can I get the plastic tool without ordering the battery kit?
petercohen said:
Yes I saw this video. Where can I get the plastic tool without ordering the battery kit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are too many of them on Ebay or Amazon, you should have at least one Metal Spudger because other plastic tools are prone to break after few uses, but plastic tools cause less damages to the case with no experienced users.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5Pcs-Plasti...343597?hash=item4aeb4e17ed:g:d0UAAOSwNSxVchoR
http://www.amazon.com/Mobile-Repair...47773485&sr=8-112&keywords=tablet+prying+tool
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Pcs-Repai...962745?hash=item2a45942379:g:uRIAAOSwj0NUejUP

Interesting problems - no wifi card detected, battery lasts 2-3 hours

Model: SM-P900
OS: 5.0.2
This is an interesting one I think...
Summary
On my Note Pro 12.2, wifi cannot be enabled - it says 'turning on... ' but never actually turns on. Also, battery life (2 different batteries now) is about 2-3 hours with no apps installed or used, even if the device is on standby or totally powered off.
Background
I bought a used SM-P900 from a local guy who gave it to me for a good price because he said the devices wireless stopped being able to connect to his wifi network at home.
I took it back to my place, did a factory reset, and lo and behold everything came up fine. I could connect to my wifi network, the device was very quick and nice to use, and the battery seemed to last a good long time. I used it for a couple of weeks without any problems at all, and then one day it started having problems with the wifi connection.
Wifi issue
The unit would connect to my wireless router, but it wouldn't actually transfer data. The download arrow would flicker, but the upload arrow would not. Every so often the device would drop connection entirely, then automatically reconnect after a few seconds. Reconnection would still have the same problems - the device appeared connected, but would not actually transfer data.
After poking around the forums I decided to do another factory reset (also tried deleting cache as well). This didn't fix the issue, though it did cause a new symptom - the wifi card could no longer be found at all.
Wifi Issue #2 - wifi stuck at 'enabling'
Factory reset number 2 resulted in the device being unable to turn on wifi at all. Going through the initial setup after the factory reset, the screen where you connect to your wifi network just showed 'Turning on... ' (I think that's the text. Device isn't in front of me at the moment).
After this, regardless of any steps I take, I cannot enable wireless (or bluetooth) at all. I move the sliders and the 'turning on...' message shows for a few minutes, then the slider automatically moves back to the grey off position.
And now the battery...
After this, I noticed the battery seemed to be discharging at an alarming rate. The top back of the device would also get unpleasantly hot, and the battery would discharge at around 30% per hour - even though I'd not installed any applications at all on it, let alone run anything. This was also after I'd put it into power saving mode.
Figuring I'd come back to it the next day, I charged it up until bedtime (charge around 95%), did a complete power off of the device, and then went to bed. 5 hours later I work up and... the device was totally dead. Could not power it on regardless of anything I tried.
Flat battery, no power on... so I replaced the battery.
I bought a new battery and installed it, and now the device powers on again. Battery discharge rate is fearsome - if I power it off completely, it loses about 25% per hour. Oddly enough, if I just have it on standby it loses slightly less - around 20% per hour. This is with no applications installed (default after reset).
Tinkering with it, installing battery / CPU / process explorer apps I cannot see anything that is using much in the way of system resources. Battery capacity doesn't seem to be being reported correctly (around 3800mah) and discharge rate seems to be between -1000 and -1200
Apps I used:
CPU-Z
CPU Monitor
GSam Battery Monitor
System Panel Lite
Note: I bought a wired USB network adapter so that I could install apps on the device, since wifi is totally broken.
Troubleshooting steps tried:
Clear Cache + factory reset = cannot enable wifi (cannot find card?). Battery run flat and died.
Factory reset (x 4 or 5) with new battery installed = no effect - battery life only 2-3 hours with no use. slightly worse when device is powered off completely.
re-install OS ( Used 5.0.2 Netherlands ROM from Sammobile + ODIN) = no change
re-install OS (Used 5.0.2 Switzerland + ODIN) = no change
downgrade OS (Used 4.4.2 United Kingdom + ODIN) = no change
upgraded OS (Used 5.0.2 Netherlands + ODIN) = no change
I cannot get the wifi to enable regardless of what I do (bluetooth is the same).
I cannot get the battery to stop discharging at a very high rate, regardless of what I do (disable all non-core processes, try and track down anything using significant system resources, etc)
I've got a bunch of replacement parts on the way from China (LCD cable, charging cable, sensor cable, etc) just on the off chance it's a hardware fault with something other then a motherboard component... but does anyone have any ideas? Anyone seen this type of thing before? Wifi cannot be enabled, very high power use even after factory reset and nothing installed?
Any help at all would be very much appreciated.
Donovan.
Just a follow up - I figure I might as well keep my troubleshooting notes here, in case they end up being useful to anyone else in the future.
I've been suspicious that the issue with the battery life is caused by the wifi card problem, rather then being a separate issue. I've tried to disable anything even vaguely related to the network in the OS, just to see if it was something constantly trying to connect or sync even though I had the wireless and bluetooth disabled, as well as airplane mode on.
Not much seemed to be having an effect, but I did notice a setting last night called 'sync'. Yes, I'm new to android...
anyway, disabling sync seemed to have a dramatic effect on the battery life. It's still discharging much faster then I'd expect, but now it looks like the battery will last around 7-8 hours instead of 2-3 hours that I'd been seeing. Also, the unit doesn't get as hot around the camera as it was before.
Note, this is with the device on standby OR powered off entirely, and no applications running and power saving mode enabled.
So back to the wireless problem.
Does anyone know where the wifi chip is on these things? It doesn't look like it's a socketed component, so I'm assuming it's soldered onto the motherboard... but I can't seem to find it.
All Samsung tablets, wifi is built on board. A factory reset won't solve the problem, you have to change main board. A used one may be around $90 on Ebay.
Quick discharge in Galaxy Note Pro and others, mostly caused by cracked battery connector. A re solder this connector will fix the problem and it takes only under 5 minutes.
Definitely sounds like a hardware issue, particularly if both batteries experienced significant drain when in full power off state. There should be practically no drain when fully powered off and even standby drain on a fresh factory reset with sync off should be minimal.
I looked over you post on this issue in another thread (http://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-note-pro-12/help/unstability-caused-hardware-software-t3142081) and I'll pull out my inspection and soldering gear and take a good long look tonight. I'll update this thread once I've done so. Thanks for the tip!
Beut said:
All Samsung tablets, wifi is built on board. A factory reset won't solve the problem, you have to change main board. A used one may be around $90 on Ebay.
Quick discharge in Galaxy Note Pro and others, mostly caused by cracked battery connector. A re solder this connector will fix the problem and it takes only under 5 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dkaardal said:
I looked over you post on this issue in another thread (http://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-note-pro-12/help/unstability-caused-hardware-software-t3142081) and I'll pull out my inspection and soldering gear and take a good long look tonight. I'll update this thread once I've done so. Thanks for the tip!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what a Samsung Repair Center will do to fix this problem:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=59573206&postcount=100
It Works. Battery connector replaced. Smoooooth
After 2 visits to Samsung , my unit finally works fine.
Motherboard and LCD were changed first time. But issue persisted.
Second time, battery connector was replaced. Since then it has worked very very smoothly.
I doubt they actually replaced the battery connector as it takes a lot of works than just re solder the connector. Replace the connector requires the main board has to be completely removed .Re solder is simple as they only need to disconnect the battery cable and do the rework from the top of the connector.
Just a quick update. I've not had a chance to pick up some small soldering iron tips to do the resolder job, but I did take a very close look at them with a magnifying glass and they seemed fine.
Then I remembered I had a 20x loup and took another look - looked a little less fine, but reasonable. I did notice that one of the pins seemed to have a break in the solder though... which is rather odd, considering how solder flows. So I bought one of those little USB microscopes that Beut mentioned in one of his other threads and took another look. I'm still tinkering with the thing to figure out how best to use it, but I got a few pics.
The solder doesn't look all that bad... but it's definitely not perfect.
Hmm... it seems I can't post links to the pictures yet as I don't have enough posts to my name.
Trust me it looks fine but the trouble is from there, not just this tablet but others all have the same problem.
Look at the white female connector, it's also the source of problem if positive cables ( red ) and negative cables ( black ) don't make good contact
with six pins of black male connector. I see the trick of disconnect and reconnect battery cable many people do to fix intermittent power or battery quick
discharge, the problem is from loose female white battery connector.
You know how to solder so the fix is easy: put a little solder over red and black cables where they make contact with male connector.
You need a knife to cut these small plastic on the white female connector like this one:
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This is an example of bad contact, the pin of male connector is between the opening of the tip of battery cable.
Look at two on the right side, two pins sit in the middle of the opening:
I'll give that a try as soon as I can get some wee little soldering iron tips. My local electronics store (Maplin) seems to be out at the moment. Hopefully I can figure something out this weekend and at least try your fixes!
Thanks again for your help!
Just exactly the same problem I have with my gtalaxy note pro 12.2 and I am looking for the solution.
I had exactly the same problem.
In the beginning, it was just a periodic disconnect.
After I have tried everything else: Factory Reset, USSD-Codes, other ROMs, Battery exchange, it got worse, so that no WiFi/BT enable was possible anymore.
When I read this thread, I started to examine the connector, I figured out, it was loose.
Then I re-soldered all the pins. But the problem got even worse. With a microscope I found out that the solder pad of PIN 3 was broken - unrepairable (because underneath the connector).
With a little speculation and a bit of courage, I guessed where this pin should continue.
I have drawn a wire between and started the pad. It had WiFi/BT from beginning and kept it stable !
I did the soldering using magnifying glasses, a 0.4 mm soldering point. But the heat is melting the plastic connector very quickly. And even very little shaking hands are too much for precise working. This is a job I cannot recommend to anyone. Will end up in more damage than repair.
The wiring was too strong and broke the part where I soldered it onto after a little bending.
I wonder, why it happens quite often, people have this problem. Maybe its a weak design which lets pin 3 broke after touching the battery connector.
Now, knowing the root cause, let me think, it was a raising connection resistance in the beginning.
(I would like to post a picture, but its not allowed to new users)
My tablet has all the exact issues. Just looking for an update from dkaaradal. Were you able to fix it??
Thanks!

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