So i have and issue, here i have attached pictures with :
1. broken connection line. Question - is this repairable ? or it can only be replaced and where? can it be soldered ?
2. broken lcd socket. as you can see in the image the socket has one line broken. does this affect a lot ? or it is not a big deal ?
waiting for reaplyes.
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i'll give it a shot for your answers -
the first one - the ripped flex cable - is not repairable - has to be replaced. As for where you can have this done - I don't really know. If you are lucky its just a cable that plugs in on both ends - if you are unlucky, its connected to something expensize on the other end and you can't just replace the cable - I don't really know, haven't taken my HOX apart. You can see the plug on the one end though - maybe get some pics of the other end of the cable? As for soldering - probably not - if it's only a single layer flex there's a small chance, but you would have to be a really good solderer to solder it. If it's a multiple layer flex cable, then there's pretty much no way.
The 2nd one - the broken lcd socket - that really depends on what ithe broken pin was used for. I'm not familar enough with the hardware inside the HOX to tell you, but there's a chance that its not needed or not used or used for something that's not important (like ambient light detection) and with it not working your phone may still work. That being said, it may also be used for something important, and without that one pin your screen won't work. Without the schematics and/or pinouts for the phone, it's hard to tell. Maybe someone here with more knowledge than I have will be able to help you with that more.
Most the ribbon cables you can purchase online. Google around. The pin broken is going to matter. Thats your main board and even if u can fibd one its going to be extremeky expensive. Start searching around for a broken one you can buy for parts or something.
Lastly, how in thee hell did you do that much damage disassembling it?? Omg lol
Sent from my SPH-L710 using xda premium
basicmods said:
i'll give it a shot for your answers -
the first one - the ripped flex cable - is not repairable - has to be replaced. As for where you can have this done - I don't really know. If you are lucky its just a cable that plugs in on both ends - if you are unlucky, its connected to something expensize on the other end and you can't just replace the cable - I don't really know, haven't taken my HOX apart. You can see the plug on the one end though - maybe get some pics of the other end of the cable? As for soldering - probably not - if it's only a single layer flex there's a small chance, but you would have to be a really good solderer to solder it. If it's a multiple layer flex cable, then there's pretty much no way.
The 2nd one - the broken lcd socket - that really depends on what ithe broken pin was used for. I'm not familar enough with the hardware inside the HOX to tell you, but there's a chance that its not needed or not used or used for something that's not important (like ambient light detection) and with it not working your phone may still work. That being said, it may also be used for something important, and without that one pin your screen won't work. Without the schematics and/or pinouts for the phone, it's hard to tell. Maybe someone here with more knowledge than I have will be able to help you with that more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well the ribbon part goes from power button, so thats why i was worried ;/. and going to light sensor, but dont know where it goes after, so it looks like one way , becouse comes out of power button, so it might be a chance of me to stick it together ?
18th.abn said:
Most the ribbon cables you can purchase online. Google around. The pin broken is going to matter. Thats your main board and even if u can fibd one its going to be extremeky expensive. Start searching around for a broken one you can buy for parts or something.
Lastly, how in thee hell did you do that much damage disassembling it?? Omg lol
Sent from my SPH-L710 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont know where to purchase this kind of cable , can you please navigate me ? its a power button cable.
as for lcd well i will try with this connection, if i will fail, i will have to wait for more spare parts from htc one x.
this damage was not made by me, i am trying to fix it.
found the cable , Power Flex Cable For HTC One X . such a litle thing , but still has a cost on it... does it look like i can stick this one together, or no chance?
Power Flex Cable For HTC One X
http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-one-x-power-flex-cable/
So guys can any one help me with search of replacing this part ? or fixing...
same website sells theese
the connector is there on the same website
/htc-one-x-lcd-screen-fpc-connector/
but this is hard to solder on...
SergioHeadAche said:
the connector is there on the same website
/htc-one-x-lcd-screen-fpc-connector/
but this is hard to solder on...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also need to replace my connector. Please let me know if you succeed to replace the connector, it doesn't seem very easy.
Regards
Jocke888
i'm needing to replace my fpc connector for the lcd too, as the little white looking tab has snapped off. any pointers on replacing this. got a new cheapo hot air rework station coming to play about with so hoping to use that to remove and replace the connector so any pointers will be handy thanks
http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-one-x-lcd-screen-fpc-connector/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuOOjIRGFWk
Lol thats my vid of when i was replacing my connector
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app
Navigation Light Flex ribbon
ok so I have a slightly different issue... I was replacing my LCD screen and everything was going perfect till I hooked the Navigation Light Flex ribbon back up and now it causes the LCD to stop working. When I disconnect the LCD works and the but the rear speaker, mic, vibrator and nav button lights do not. any ideas on what's causing the issue?
usafandersons said:
ok so I have a slightly different issue... I was replacing my LCD screen and everything was going perfect till I hooked the Navigation Light Flex ribbon back up and now it causes the LCD to stop working. When I disconnect the LCD works and the but the rear speaker, mic, vibrator and nav button lights do not. any ideas on what's causing the issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please do not post in multiple places for the same problem, it's again xda rules.
Sent from my Evita
Sounds like a short of some kind.
Sent from my One X using xda app-developers app
Related
hello i have a tg01 with dead usb...... not charging and in windows pc it says that it is malfunction..... i look at motherboard and have something missing near usb jack... who have a detalied picture af motherboard please give me one to see what's missing.... thanks
TG01 Motherboard
Here is a picture which I hope will help. Thee is also a French site which I will try and find the URL for (I have - just need to look up) which shows a step by step dissasembly which is excellent.
Good luck
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Regards,
Kevin
kevinpwhite said:
Here is a picture which I hope will help. Thee is also a French site which I will try and find the URL for (I have - just need to look up) which shows a step by step dissasembly which is excellent.
Good luck
View attachment 627214
Regards,
Kevin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here you are.... Oh la la!
http://toshiba-tg01.forumactif.com/t1205-tuto-demontage-du-toshiba-tg01
Pere said:
Here you are.... Oh la la!
http://toshiba-tg01.forumactif.com/t1205-tuto-demontage-du-toshiba-tg01
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perfect - exactly the one I was referring to.....well done and thank you, Pere
thanks you guys.... great help
Hey, it's my toshiba!
i appologise if this is a stupid question but do you think cleaning and making the motherboard and cpu and everything nice and clean and shiny and removing dust and muck or whatever will make the phone have a longer life and perform better?
chdeul said:
Hey, it's my toshiba!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi chdeul! Nice to hear from you! Great job, as you can see, I value your tutorial a lot!
Best Regards
i have problem with nfs shift hd .. the phone is unresponsive and i need to reset... when i install chainfire hd2-3d patch driver it's working but at lower framerate..... anybody have this problem?
jonnyhall1bmx1 said:
i appologise if this is a stupid question but do you think cleaning and making the motherboard and cpu and everything nice and clean and shiny and removing dust and muck or whatever will make the phone have a longer life and perform better?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A qualified yes to your question....
A buildup of dirt may in time cause unwanted electrical contact and possibly spurious behaviour. This would be more likely if there was carbon or metal dust present; unlikely in normal domestic usage.
If you do want to clean, then I would strongly recommend using a proper 'air-duster' aerosol for stuff like fluff or if necessary a proprietary electronic cleaning solvent (eg Electrolube, which can be obtained from Maplin or Radiospares or a similar supplier). Do not attempt to brush the circuit board or use things like cotton buds as there is a high risk of causing mechanical damage to components.
Hope that is of some help...
Best regards,
Kevin
could someone tell me what is this and what value it have.... that i have missing on pcb of mi tg01
Unfortunately, I dissasemble my TG01 2 days ago. If I dissasemble it apart soon, I would look.
Mine Too!
My TG01 has just started to do exactly the same thing
I have to wiggle the USB charger vigorously in the jack just to get it to charge, and it always drops the connection halfway through syncing when connected to the copmuter
I'm thinking about opening it up and taking a closer look at the connector, I just want my TG01 back to normal again Maybe I'll even try replacing the jack using some parts off ebay depends if the jack looks loose
I'll open it up some-point this weekend and take a look for you onell...
You marked left one but I can see missing part on the right....
the right piece is there but is not a good picture..... the left one is missing
This is Zener diode 1N4764A-TAP or similar cos E2 mean GLASS-e2
thank you very much.... i replace that zenner diode .... but usb still dont work.... i gess something else is fried uffff..... any ideas?
onell said:
thank you very much.... i replace that zenner diode .... but usb still dont work.... i gess something else is fried uffff..... any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My suggestion: On these days, you can find a TG01 for 100€ or less googlyng a bit.
You can also ask for a TG01 with broken screen for a bargain....
And if you only want the Motherboard, you could contact with someone needing the touch screen and share it!
good luck!
Problem is there is no FUSE in the usb charging line as is in majority handsets with usb charging and usb host.
My tg01 cannot charging using wall charger.I think its burn the charger ic and smell like burning rubber before.Anyone know which one is the charger circuit ic?.Is there charging ic is the right one on upper pics???
HTC Desire S
Purchased in Israel (eline)
P/N: 99HMN143-00
IMEI： 358967049XXXXXX
S/N： SH1AJTJXXXXX
I need to replace the display and I was thinking about buying this, however the site warns that there are two types of LCD flex cables - narrow and wide. Is there any way to know (without opening up the phone) whether I have the narrow or wide LCD flex cable ?
And if I do have to open the phone up, what is the minimum I need to do in order to determine the flex type (going by tutorials such as this,this or this)? Also, I don't have any reference, so even if I see the cable I'm not sure how I'll be able to tell whether it's the narrow or wide one ?
Thanks
It's never a good idea to publish imei numbers
Swyped from my DesireS
ben_pyett said:
It's never a good idea to publish imei numbers
Swyped from my DesireS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, but as you can see I've censored the last 6 digits (5 in the s/n)
t0x1n said:
Thanks, but as you can see I've censored the last 6 digits (5 in the s/n)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why exactly do you need to know this about the flex cable? I'm just curious...
Oops, sorry..
Swyped from my DesireS
enigmaamit said:
Why exactly do you need to know this about the flex cable? I'm just curious...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I need to buy the right display replacement according to the flex cable type. I thought that by providing the P/N, S/N and IMEI (the latter two in censored form, of course) I might provide enough information to deduce the type.
t0x1n said:
I need to buy the right display replacement according to the flex cable type. I thought that by providing the P/N, S/N and IMEI (the latter two in censored form, of course) I might provide enough information to deduce the type.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really don't know man... if i were you, i'd go to a local service centre and ask them how to determine which type of cable my phone uses... I know taht's not very helpful but that's all i could think of right now. I'll try to get more details and get back to you if i find something useful.
Sent from my PC without the XDA/Tapatalk app. Ha!!
The first of your tutorials, I believe at 2:30 you can see the flex connectors. So since you have to disassemble your phone anyway when the screen arrives, look at it as training
The question is - ok, you see the flex, how do you know if it's the "narrow" or the "wide" one, these aren't absolute terms. I suggest searching for some reference photos on the internet to be sure.
Jack_R1 said:
The first of your tutorials, I believe at 2:30 you can see the flex connectors. So since you have to disassemble your phone anyway when the screen arrives, look at it as training
The question is - ok, you see the flex, how do you know if it's the "narrow" or the "wide" one, these aren't absolute terms. I suggest searching for some reference photos on the internet to be sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, good points
I think I found a pretty good reference (gotta love eBay):
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That's great! Since you'll have to take the phone apart to replace the digitizer anyway, i suggest you do it now, and see what cable you have... and order the appropriate one accordingly.
@t0x1n
This is really a use full information. Please let me know where from u got the narrow flex LCD+digitizer set.... i have broken mine and i need to fix it as well. looking for an early reply ...
somnath.trader said:
@t0x1n
This is really a use full information. Please let me know where from u got the narrow flex LCD+digitizer set.... i have broken mine and i need to fix it as well. looking for an early reply ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@somnath.trader
I think this is the digitizer I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement...e_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item5d3db9cd39
It didn't work and I had to buy an LCD so I bought this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Screen-...-Desire-S-S510E-G12-Narrow-Flex-/310517355375
Neither worked for me, but it may be my fault for incorrect assembly, or the fault of the lab that tried to fix it.
So there is no way to know if for example my HTC Desire S have a Narrow or a Wide cable?
The only possible way to examine that is to tear the phone apart? ^^
Hmm, then i might need to buy this or something? :
General Cellphone Replacement Repair Open Tools ( +,-,T5,T6,Plastic Tools *2)
So there is no possible way by using the P/N or S/N to know if there is a Wide or Narrow cable?
Well not sure if there is a thread like this yet, but I figured I'd post it up in case anyone wants to see them
The actual reason I had yo do this was because today I went to take a picture of my little kid (he's ² months) in his bathtub and he kicked my s3 out of my hand, and into his bathtub. So I pulled it apart to dry it out'
Enjoy
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Is there a warrenty sticker anywhere on it? I noticed there isnt one covering one of the screws like I read about. I did notice there are what looks like white stickers covering some holes. I was going to take the screws and back under cover off just to have a look around but I was afraid they have some hidden shenanigans that would void my warrenty.
Just jizzed in my pants..nngghhfnfnfnfkdkd
Does it work now?
Wow, you're a lot braver than I am! Hopefully it all works!
Thanks for the post and pics. I hope it works out for you! Good luck
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
Awesome
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
nope no warranty stickers.
those little white circle stickers on the back cover, are covers for the antenna connections (similar to what you see on a wireless laptop card.)
& yes the phone is working excellent.
in regards to the little antenna connectors, i actually separated my RFID chip & antenna from my works ID (we have HID/RFID badges to let us in & out of the building)
I soldered a laptop antenna connector to the RFID antenna, end (allowing both ends of the RFID antenna to connect to the chip, but then on the 1 end there is a off shot with the wireless antenna connector) & i connected that to one of the antenna points on the phone.
before doing this i only received 1 bar with wifi in the farthest part of my back yard. not i get 2 , also i can hold my phone 4-8 inches from the works badge reader & it read (so its range increased as well) normally i would have to lay my badge on it & move it around a little bit
so win win 2 birds with 1 bullet (thats a inside joke that maybe a few will know )
i wish i was able to put the NFC chip in emulate mode so i could just emulate the work badge, but this solution turned out to be better (for now)
Good job
Obviously the nfc chip is in the battery lol I just bought a 4500mah extended battery. I wonder if there outs anyway to swap the NFC antenna to the new battery? If anyone knows , I would be happy to test it out. I guess I will have too Google it to see the possibilities!
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
dirtydroidx said:
Obviously the nfc chip is in the battery lol I just bought a 4500mah extended battery. I wonder if there outs anyway to swap the NFC antenna to the new battery? If anyone knows , I would be happy to test it out. I guess I will have too Google it to see the possibilities!
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont think the NFC is in the battery...i think only the antenna is ....at least in my Nexus 7 that is how it is.
enohand said:
nope no warranty stickers.
those little white circle stickers on the back cover, are covers for the antenna connections (similar to what you see on a wireless laptop card.)
& yes the phone is working excellent.
in regards to the little antenna connectors, i actually separated my RFID chip & antenna from my works ID (we have HID/RFID badges to let us in & out of the building)
I soldered a laptop antenna connector to the RFID antenna, end (allowing both ends of the RFID antenna to connect to the chip, but then on the 1 end there is a off shot with the wireless antenna connector) & i connected that to one of the antenna points on the phone.
before doing this i only received 1 bar with wifi in the farthest part of my back yard. not i get 2 , also i can hold my phone 4-8 inches from the works badge reader & it read (so its range increased as well) normally i would have to lay my badge on it & move it around a little bit
so win win 2 birds with 1 bullet (thats a inside joke that maybe a few will know )
i wish i was able to put the NFC chip in emulate mode so i could just emulate the work badge, but this solution turned out to be better (for now)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is something i would love to do.... Any chance you have some closeup pics of where you soldered the antenna connection for your badge?
Beemer533 said:
This is something i would love to do.... Any chance you have some closeup pics of where you soldered the antenna connection for your badge?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd love to see a mod to increase my wireless antennae range as well one bar 3G blows.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Beemer533 said:
This is something i would love to do.... Any chance you have some closeup pics of where you soldered the antenna connection for your badge?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i do not, but i basically tied into the lead coming of the RFID chip. (stock wire-----| rfid |-----wire) my mod (wire & shoot of for the wireless lead >---| rfis |------wire
pyrostic said:
I'd love to see a mod to increase my wireless antennae range as well one bar 3G blows.
it did not do anything for cellservice. it just incread the wifi range by 1 bar
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
enohand said:
nope no warranty stickers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm so we can replace parts without voiding the warrenty?
man,that charge port looks like a pain in the ass to replace...i have to replace mine, and now i'm worried
Just Crazy!! :silly:
Imatoasta said:
Hmmm so we can replace parts without voiding the warrenty?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as they don't catch it...
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
I can't wait to get mine and cool tear down, I hope I don't need to do that.
wow
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So, I just got off the phone with Asus. I accidentally broke the charging port in my infinity. It was charging and my son knocked it into the wall breaking the piece of plastic inside the charging port.I'll attach a picture to show the extent of the damage. They want roughly $240 to repair this. Maybe a little more or less. I obviously dont want (and really dont have) the money to fix it right now. And I feel like paying half the cost of the tablet to fix a small piece of plastic is insane.
Has anyone here ever broken their charging port and if so how did you fix it? If you have any suggestions at all id appreciate it. Im pretty good with electronics and was hoping that I may be able to fix it myself.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda app-developers app
I had a similar issue on my tf101. smashed the center pins on the port on the tablet. bad deal. I havent done this on the tf700 but thought I would point you in the direction i took on the tf101. I found a rplacement port at asusparts. eu and ordered it. took about 6 weeks to get it. Everything on their site is very cryptic and hard to follow. I would suggest opening it up and removing the port/board to see if there is a part number on it, then search their site for that part number. plus you can visually match it up better this way.
Hope this helps. my tf101 is in great shape now, gave it to the kids
Any luck?
So i have a TF700, one of the charger port pins are bent due to a drop. It will not charge and need to replace the port. so far i have not found the part number anywere on ASUS parts website. as anyone opened a tf700 to see if there is part number and or a way to get one. Have not had the guts to open the tablet until i can replace the part. thanks
Well fixed this, opened the tf700 and bought the ribbon cable. Works great.
Sent from my EVO using xda app-developers app
Me Too
DOC_OZ said:
Well fixed this, opened the tf700 and bought the ribbon cable. Works great.
Sent from my EVO using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you get the part? and were there any tricks to fixing it yourself?
I'm in the same boat. The way the port and cable are (badly) designed it looks too easy to break with just a little downward pressure. I'm surprised more people aren't complaining about this. I tried going through Asus ($241/non warranty repair... screw that) and local shops say they can't get the part. I have an email out to asusparts.eu to see if the fpc cable they carry is compatible and whether they can ship to CA.
There have to be more people having the same issue.
TF700 Charging Port Broken
Well , I am in the same boat.. My son tripped on the wire while charging . I am able to charge but Dock is not connecting ( When i connect the dock , nothing happens ) ... guess something is broken in the charging port.
Any pointers where can we source the port replacement ( part numbers ? ) and any instructions ?
I live in Dublin,CA are there any local repair shops i can goto (within 50 miles) ? i dont want to go to Asus ( already unlocked) and they will definitly ask for a fortune .
Ram
OK so yes I will send you a picture of what it looks like when I get off work. The nomenclature is stamped on the ribbon its-self. I bought the "correct" one from Asus and it was not at all for the 700t. I purchased another from a online seller company and it was correct. As far taking it apart not for the faint of heart, you get to test the gorilla glass out to see how strong it is. Look up ifixit, there you will find the needed teardown instruction. So far tablet is fine.
DOC_OZ said:
OK so yes I will send you a picture of what it looks like when I get off work. The nomenclature is stamped on the ribbon its-self. I bought the "correct" one from Asus and it was not at all for the 700t. I purchased another from a online seller company and it was correct. As far taking it apart not for the faint of heart, you get to test the gorilla glass out to see how strong it is. Look up ifixit, there you will find the needed teardown instruction. So far tablet is fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi DOC_OZ , Can you please let us know Part which you ordered from Asus & link and the details about "online seller company" you mentioned. I did all the search , and i am not able to find any website which sells them in US.
Thanks, Ram
nramprabhu said:
hi DOC_OZ , Can you please let us know Part which you ordered from Asus & link and the details about "online seller company" you mentioned. I did all the search , and i am not able to find any website which sells them in US.
Thanks, Ram
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like there is one right here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASUS-TF700T...794?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c94a2b12
I don't know if the price is good or not but it also looks like it has a manufacturers part number as well.
Brand: ASUS MPN: 08301-00163200
---------- Post added at 07:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:15 PM ----------
Better price. Same part number.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASUS-TF300T...870?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c6f77546
Jeff
Thanks Jeff.
Ram
Fixed the Charging Port but ....
Thanks all for your pointers and Help .
I have ordered a new Charging Port from www.asusparts.eu and somehow gathered courage to open up and replace the docking port with the help of the tutorial from www.ifixit.com
When I put the tablet together , touch screen was not working . Again took it apart , tried reconnecting the ribbons . When i put it together again , I am able to charge and touch screen also working :good::good::good:.
Then tried connecting the tablet to the keyboard dock, To my horror , tablet is not recognize the dock. But when i connect the charging cable to dock , both dock and tablet are charging ( atleast the lights are on) . :crying::crying::crying:
Ram
sorry for upping this old thread...
I had the same problem and after substituiting the charging port with a new one, now the tablet takes forever tho charge the battery.
I'm using a usb cable plugged to the amazon basic charger (output 5V, 2.1A), but neither the os nor the recovery tells wether the tablet is charging. Nevertheless, if I leave it plugged for some hours it reaches 100%. Battery drains at usual speed, just takes forever to charge. Sometimes the touchscreen is unresponsive too, regardless of the ROM I'm using.
Is there something to do?
As I search for an alternate point to actually solder to this is the best I've got so far.
In order to completed this you must have a moderate amount of soldering experience and a damn steady hand.
EASY: First solder to the easy spot which is 3-4volts when unit is off.
Use a strand of copper from a speaker wire since the gauge is thin enough you should be able to attach it rather easily
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HARD: Next what you want to do is hold the Kindle on an angle where you can access the power button and touch the other end of the copper wire to the following point. If the unit doesn't automatically turn on you may have to manually power it on carefully while touching the point.
HARDER: Solder to the point and run a switch in line for a fastboot/unbrick mod. Maybe later...
Great tut, however it seems there is much more work than to just make a fastboot cable.
sent fro my rooted kindle fire hd 7 with twerp and kinology rom installed
I didn't want to drop 9 bucks on eBay and after like 5 USB cable disassemblies I just said screw it and whooped out the iPod Pryer and multimeter
While you're in there wanna find the UART pads?
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
Hashcode said:
While you're in there wanna find the UART pads?
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have another demo unit. I'll check it out for you. But I'm pretty sure the RX TX pads shown in the picture below are what your looking for.. As for VCC you can use the 3-4v wire shown in picture 1 and ground obviously the black wire where the battery connects a few wires over from the red one.
Also I'm going to do a tutorial on how to flip a demo unit into a full blown unit/cm10 soon since that was what I was doing/did to this unit. I'll be using your files and another users files do you have any objections?
-XE
xboxexpert said:
I have another demo unit. I'll check it out for you. But I'm pretty sure the RX TX pads shown in the picture below are what your looking for.. As for VCC you can use the 3-4v wire shown in picture 1 and ground obviously the black wire where the battery connects a few wires over from the red one.
View attachment 2239522
Also I'm going to do a tutorial on how to flip a demo unit into a full blown unit/cm10 soon since that was what I was doing/did to this unit. I'll be using your files and another users files do you have any objections?
-XE
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey! Great find. Maybe I'll open mine up tonight and run some tests.
Thanks!
No objections either.
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
Hashcode said:
Hey! Great find. Maybe I'll open mine up tonight and run some tests.
Thanks!
No objections either.
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its not fun until you break it open to see how it works and make it better hardware wise. I can easily doing an inductive charging mod to this. Actually going to very soon since I'm selling my Sero 7 and keeping this smaller tablet.
-XE
There used to be a person here who had the signature "if it ain't broke, fix it"
Seems fitting for the two mods
Sent from my XT907 using xda app-developers app
mrkhigh said:
There used to be a person here who had the signature "if it ain't broke, fix it"
Seems fitting for the two mods
Sent from my XT907 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm a hardcore hardware modder. I love tearing stuff apart. If you look in my sig the inductive charger thats in the Sero 7 after it sells on ebay its coming out and going in the Kindle HD
why not just make a option in the roms?
It's easy enough to do from terminal, this is more of the oh crap I bricked it instance, I do agree, this mod is harsh, butttttt if you were wanting to crack it open anyway.....
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app
Zpik said:
why not just make a option in the roms?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is mainly for modifying the demo units sold on eBay for 1/2 the cost of normal KFires. I got a demo unit off ebay for 80 shipped and flipped it for $150 fully modded with android. I then picked up another demo unit for 70 shipped and am using it for my wife. Never spent a dime on a fastboot cable which is needed for a demo flip.
xboxexpert said:
As I search for an alternate point to actually solder to this is the best I've got so far.
In order to completed this you must have a moderate amount of soldering experience and a damn steady hand.
EASY: First solder to the easy spot which is 3-4volts when unit is off.
Use a strand of copper from a speaker wire since the gauge is thin enough you should be able to attach it rather easily
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
err, why wouldn't you just unplug the battery?
30 awg kynar wirerap wire and copious application of kapton tape barriers is the way to bridge traces, imo.
I wonder if there's a place on the Vcc rail on the output side to pull power from. it'd be better because the current way is skipping the power filtering/protection circuits for the battery and dumping straight pack potential into sensitive chip leads.
also, i'm guessing TX/RX is the uart?
Has this been tested on a bricked model? or was it only used on demo units?
Would like to know, since I bricked my KFHD7 and am currently waiting on a Fastboot cable that wont be here till, the 27th.
Just want to make sure before I crack mine open, will report if it hasn't already been reported to work on a bricked unit
sicerr said:
Has this been tested on a bricked model? or was it only used on demo units?
Would like to know, since I bricked my KFHD7 and am currently waiting on a Fastboot cable that wont be here till, the 27th.
Just want to make sure before I crack mine open, will report if it hasn't already been reported to work on a bricked unit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It works on all units.
sicerr said:
Has this been tested on a bricked model? or was it only used on demo units?
Would like to know, since I bricked my KFHD7 and am currently waiting on a Fastboot cable that wont be here till, the 27th.
Just want to make sure before I crack mine open, will report if it hasn't already been reported to work on a bricked unit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have the means to do this mod and have a spare cable. I'd go with modding a cable and recommend heat-shrink over tape(improper taping is poor strain relief). He did this mod because you can't exchange a demo unit and problems making a cable.