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Hi,
I just got a TF and my earphone jack seems to have poor solder joint. I tried 3 sets of phones and all give the same result. Sometime I only have sound on the left side, I need to wiggle the connector a bit to get sound for both side. Sometime if I accidentally touches the jack, I am back to 1 single side sound. Doesn't anyone have this issue? I saw someone posting the same feedback from another forum so I just want to confirm that. Also, onto of the ASUS word at the side of the tablet there is a small scratch and many seems to have the same scratch there. I am less concern about this scratch.
I know there are thousands of people looking all over the web for a solution to their captivate's rear speaker cutting out and I am happy to report I have a solution for you! I searched all over these forums, all over google, and by the grace of God I somehow found this suggestion in a comment on a pointless YouTube video with around only a thousand views. But whatever! Here it is...
Take off the back casing of your phone (it's not too difficult; here are the instructions http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=740022)
Once you have the back all opened up you should see one lone screw remaining just to the left of the speaker
Loosen the screw
That's it!!!!!!!! The guys' comment on YouTube said he noticed the screw was in so tight that that it was bending the circuit board and messing up the connection. Which makes sense to me because earlier I noticed that pushing down on the right side of the speaker (on the opposite side of the screw) seemed to help better than pushing anywhere else.
So stop listening to all the threads that say "just push on the speaker" or "get it repaired" or "just deal with it." I had jammed stuff in behind my back cover that was so thick it started to bend the metal, but it was always just a temporary fix. No pressure was ever enough pressure to get the speaker consistently working. Who knew the answer would be less pressure? Or that it would be so simple...
Now go fix your phone and enjoy!
UPDATE: If you are still having problems, try mithileshpatel007's fix from page two of this thread. Sounds like people have had luck with his method too. He suggests repositioning the speaker ribbon. The ribbon is located on the far right and can be seen going from the bottom of the speaker housing to a small terminal that may be covered by a piece of blue tape. Everything is so tiny that it sort of all looks like one piece but what you can do is...
flip up a tiny black latch (bottom of the terminal)
reposition or remove + replace the ribbon (enters at the top of the terminal). There isn't much slack, but try to get it as far in there as possible
PLEASE BE CAREFUL! The ribbon is tiny and pretty stiff and some people have reported problems just getting their phone open, much less playing around. Remember this is a tiny device made to do big things so it's not as durable as your GameBoy Color! Handle with care.
Clarification
I should clarify. I loosened the screw till it was coming out and then tightened it VERY gently. I screwed it back in and stopped at the first feel of resistance. I did this last night and have been blasting music and getting notifications without any problem since.
Check back in a day or two. A couple hours of a fixed speaker doesn't impress me...been there done that. But I did fix mine tho.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium
Thanks for this info. My speaker just started acting up the other day. I pushed on it like others have said to, and so far it has been good for a couple of days now. If it so much as acts like it is going to do this again, I will take the above steps.
Thanks!
Check back in a day or two. A couple hours of a fixed speaker doesn't impress me...been there done that. But I did fix mine tho.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My speaker is still working great. I understand the skepticism but I wanted to put the post up right away because 1) the fix made so much sense to me, 2) my speaker was ALWAYS cutting out before I did it and NEVER cut out after, and 3) I wanted to help as many people as soon as possible because I know how maddening this problem is!
How did you fix yours? And by the way, impressing you was never my goal
Works!
Thanks for this suggestion! I've been fighting this problem for months now and the tap-tap-push method only ever fixed the problem for a few minutes. Since trying your "fix" my speaker has worked for 2 days now!
Thanks so much for this... Had mine fixed in a jiffy...
snoboarder071 said:
My speaker is still working great. I understand the skepticism but I wanted to put the post up right away because 1) the fix made so much sense to me, 2) my speaker was ALWAYS cutting out before I did it and NEVER cut out after, and 3) I wanted to help as many people as soon as possible because I know how maddening this problem is!
How did you fix yours? And by the way, impressing you was never my goal
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium
Finally!!!
no more being late for work because the alarm didn't sound!
so far so good! before the fix my captivate had sound maybe 5% of the time. hasn't cut out yet since loosening that pesky screw!
thanks!
For those of you who do not have warranty or insurance, there is a fix for this.
I just got done with re assembling the phone after a fix I performed. It is real easy to do.
Things you need:
-A screwdriver (whatever the size is when you open the back cover, the four screws you see, that size)
-A small flat head screwdriver if you have one (not necessary but would help)
-Patience and some common sense.
Ok, to start off follow these steps http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=740022 to open the first 6 screws and then how to pop open the screen from the bezel(this is when a flat head screwdriver would be useful).
(go just to the step till the fifth picture in that thread, no need to go beyond that opening things!)
Now, you would see a screw on the left of the speaker. Now, other threads said that by loosening that screw the speaker would work. But, I did that and still had issues so I opened the phone like 4 times in total before I found out what it was. Now, notice that the speaker unit has a cable (orange colored) running into the main phone chip. It is connected there through which it functions. When you open that above mentioned thread to open the phone there is a picture showing to remove the that belt from the board. Follow that instructions, flip that tiny black clip up to remove the belt. In some cases there might be a blue sticker kind of thing on the belt, just take off that sticker. The problem seems that the belt is loosing contact which doesn't allow the speaker to get the sound input to put out sound through the speaker. So, take off the belt by flipping that switch and re insert it out there. Try to push it in properly or enough to align a white line on the belt and the chip. There is a white line to guide us there. That line should be totally straight when the belt is inserted appropriately. And now, flip that clip down and lock it. If you have loosened the screw left to the speaker, put it back in in normal force not excessive(no need to be more gentle here). You cannot leave it loose because it makes the whole unit move when it is loose eventually pulling off the belt from its place which causes the sound cut outs. The whole trick is to get the belt right in its place. So, make sure it is tight but not extra tight after you have managed to get the belt right. Put everything back together and now when you screw the last 6 screws again, the one in the top speaker corner affects the speaker unit, so don't push it too hard in. Just normal screwing. The rest should be done properly with normal force. This should solve it. I figured this out after opening the phone 4 times. And now playing songs since the past 6 hours non stop and its back in action again!
For all this, i did put in the battery and start the phone when I had opened it and tried messing around and figured out what was killing the sound, so this should be the ultimate solution to it. There is nothing else that can be affecting it now.
Most people must had faced this because they dropped their phones before which made the belt to move and hence the loose contacts inside. If not then, there are high chances that you bought it from someone or somewhere who had dropped it before!
Well that's it! Also, don't freak out in having to open the phone. You should just go to the step till the fifth picture. Which is very easily achievable!
Go, have fun with your WORKING speakers now!
I tried to open my Cappy but failed a unscrewing the middle screws...they are soo tight
My problem is that the ribbon cable between the speaker and the board is too short. No way to line that white stripe up. Got it in there as best I could and so far so good
I'm just guessing... but I would think that because this could possibly void a warranty is the only reason they don't make this a sticky, but it really should be...nice find and much appreciated. It is a common and very annoying problem and this fix really does seem to work!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using XDA App
Rear Speaker Fix - Thanks for the advice!
Just successfully disassembled my wife's phone without busting it into 1 million pieces. I loosened that screw next to the speaker, tightened just until i felt it start to grab, backed it off 1/16th of a turn, and the speaker works now. Great job on hunting down that video.
-Word of advice, The screw your loosening on the speaker housing is also the screw that holds the motherboard secure. I would recommend not removing the screw. The Captivate may self destruct if you do so.
10 out of 10 HERE! THUMBS UP!
Thanks.
______________________
Samsung Captivate i897
Firmware: Gingerbread 2.3.5
Baseband: I897UCKK4
Kernal: 2.6.35.7-I897UCKK2-CL614489
BUILD: GINGERBREAD.UCKK4
worked for me
So I attempted this fix, considering I had no sound from the speaker at all.
I managed to somehow break the black connector flap that holds the ribbon cable in off of the connector. Now the speaker has no connection whatsoever, and now I don't have the vibrate function as well. (The speaker and vibrating motor are in the same assembly.)
Just a word to the wise. (I think I had actually broken my speaker, because I could get no sound at all, even before I broke the connector.)
mithileshpatel007 said:
For those of you who do not have warranty or insurance, there is a fix for this.
I just got done with re assembling the phone after a fix I performed. It is real easy to do.
Things you need:
-A screwdriver (whatever the size is when you open the back cover, the four screws you see, that size)
-A small flat head screwdriver if you have one (not necessary but would help)
-Patience and some common sense.
Ok, to start off follow these steps http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=740022 to open the first 6 screws and then how to pop open the screen from the bezel(this is when a flat head screwdriver would be useful).
(go just to the step till the fifth picture in that thread, no need to go beyond that opening things!)
Now, you would see a screw on the left of the speaker. Now, other threads said that by loosening that screw the speaker would work. But, I did that and still had issues so I opened the phone like 4 times in total before I found out what it was. Now, notice that the speaker unit has a cable (orange colored) running into the main phone chip. It is connected there through which it functions. When you open that above mentioned thread to open the phone there is a picture showing to remove the that belt from the board. Follow that instructions, flip that tiny black clip up to remove the belt. In some cases there might be a blue sticker kind of thing on the belt, just take off that sticker. The problem seems that the belt is loosing contact which doesn't allow the speaker to get the sound input to put out sound through the speaker. So, take off the belt by flipping that switch and re insert it out there. Try to push it in properly or enough to align a white line on the belt and the chip. There is a white line to guide us there. That line should be totally straight when the belt is inserted appropriately. And now, flip that clip down and lock it. If you have loosened the screw left to the speaker, put it back in in normal force not excessive(no need to be more gentle here). You cannot leave it loose because it makes the whole unit move when it is loose eventually pulling off the belt from its place which causes the sound cut outs. The whole trick is to get the belt right in its place. So, make sure it is tight but not extra tight after you have managed to get the belt right. Put everything back together and now when you screw the last 6 screws again, the one in the top speaker corner affects the speaker unit, so don't push it too hard in. Just normal screwing. The rest should be done properly with normal force. This should solve it. I figured this out after opening the phone 4 times. And now playing songs since the past 6 hours non stop and its back in action again!
For all this, i did put in the battery and start the phone when I had opened it and tried messing around and figured out what was killing the sound, so this should be the ultimate solution to it. There is nothing else that can be affecting it now.
Most people must had faced this because they dropped their phones before which made the belt to move and hence the loose contacts inside. If not then, there are high chances that you bought it from someone or somewhere who had dropped it before!
Well that's it! Also, don't freak out in having to open the phone. You should just go to the step till the fifth picture. Which is very easily achievable!
Go, have fun with your WORKING speakers now!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This worked on mine, thank you!!!
don't know why but i can't get that battery latch to move down to get the two remaining screws
disellusional said:
don't know why but i can't get that battery latch to move down to get the two remaining screws
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
after sliding it down just lift it slightly in the middle, it flexes up and then slides down about another half inch.
It seems my Keyboard dock is falling apart. I keep it well looked after, but despite that the top is coming away from the bottom on the top right corner. Is this happening to anyone else? I can get it replaced (good old john Lewis) if it gets worse, but i haven't heard of this anywhere else.
Sent from my Xperia S using XDA Premium HD app
Mine was loose around the dock area. Would make a loud click if pressed, like something wasn't screwed tight.
Sent it back to Asus and they sent out a new one. You might as well get it replaced now
Odp: Keyboard falling apart?
You're not the only one. I noticed the same fault yesterday, also the top right part. I wonder if it can be fixed without sending back the device.
Guys - carefully peel off the top 2 rubber feet - carefully - you will see two lose screws fall out. :silly:
Tighten them up and I suspect your issue will be resolved.
I have no idea how this got through Asus Q&A but everyone seems to have the same problem.
sbdags said:
I have no idea how this got through Asus Q&A but everyone seems to have the same problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing here... No clicks, no loose screws, no friction, nothing..
I dropped my keyboard once...bent the metal around the power input. I had to pry it back into place to get the charger to go back in :crying: now it doesn't really fit together at the top left side near the dock. I'm really bummed out about it. I wonder if square trade would consider it as part of the infinity in my warranty.
My TF700 dock has a similar problem. The only difference is that problematic area is along the docking port. Has anyone disassembled a dock and knows whether that area is held together with screws or just some plastic tabs?
So a bought my tablet, without the dock. Being a modder/hacker/tweaker, I knew I had to root and learn the flash process specific to my device ASAP.
Horrified to find that I would lose my warranty, and that I would be on my own from that moment when I would have unlocked it an beyond.
So I hesitated... For a week... and unlocked, rooted, and flashed a couple ROMs. All is well.
Fast forward 4 months...
I started getting issues with the touch screen on my device. I was heartbroken. I knew that nobody would fix it, despite it being a hardware defect of some kind.
The issue I was having was the "Ghost Touches" which would swipe up and down rapidly and randomly on the left half of the screen.
It would happen seemingly at random, and progressively became so bad that I couldn't use my TF700 any longer.
Shelving it for a few weeks, I finally became inspired and motivated to try to fix it myself, or at least discover wtf was wrong with it.
I found that pressing on the bottom of the tablet (the sections that surround the screen itself) would actually make the problem go away, but also make half of my screen unresponsive until I screen locked/unlocked it.
That made me feel that it was software related seeing that a simple lock/unlock via the top left button would make it stop for a few seconds, but this wasn't the case despite this glaring fact.
So I knew I had to open it, and I had no resources, couldn't find any videos, no information on opening this thing was available, at least at the time.
The steps I took were:
1) Turning off the device of course.
2) Flipped it over and with a flashlight looked down into the two slots for mounting it on the dock.
2a) I peeled away the squishy stickery thingy from each slot.
2b) There are little circles, one in each, that using something sturdy, you must slide to the tablet's left. (I used a nail...)
3) Using some kind of plastic yet sturdy wedge, you must unsnap all of the clasps under the screen to free it.
3a) I used a guitar pick, starting from one of the slots on the bottom, I ran the pick around the edges of the screen after carefully forcing it between the aluminium case and the glass.
3b) With somewhat violent prying motions I was able to free all of the snaps. (You need not unsnap the top side, only the bottom, left, and right sides. If I recall correctly)
4) There's 2 ribbons, they're sneaky, one is copper colored, the other is white. The white one is the scary one.
I turned on my tablet at this point, everything worked fine, I was VERY thankful at that point.
Now I looked around on the inside of the device and noticed that the point where the copper ribbon meets the digitizer/lcd screen was dented a bit, and when I ran my finger across it, the phantom touch problem went absolutely crazy. Bingo.
I found the pressing the ribbon flat against the screen, and firmly holding it in place fixed the problem.
So with a piece of tape I found next to me, I carefully rolled the tape over the dented area of the ribbon, and firmly secured the ribbon to the back of the screen preventing it from moving at all.
Upon reassembling my device, all has worked well, though when I shake the tablet, or press on certain points (takes a fair bit of pressure, nothing you'd ever do intentionally) the "Ghost Touch" comes back, but is easily remedied by a quick lock/unlock. This happens only once or twice a week at best, and I use this tablet HEAVILY.
Sorry for the messy post, and the lack of pictures, I didn't take any, and am not doing this again until I have to.
I really hope anyone who read this can gain from it.
Regards,
~HNx
That is some good info there.
Thanks for taking the time to put that together. I'm sure this will be very useful/helpful to those with similar/same symptoms.
Good job on doing it on your own like that. :thumbup:
Sent from my ADR6400L using xda app-developers app
Wow thank you for the post very very much.
I have had the ghost touch problem ever since the start, but it only came about with the dock connected. Through trial and error i figured that the dock is pressing on the bottom of the screen when you open/close it and causes persistent ghost touch. Simple on/off screen would fix it until i adjust the dock angle again. Never had it without dock connected.
Mine is also unlocked so no warranty. Although i am planning to rma the dock as its started to make clicking noises when open/closes.
Will definitely do your fix soon. How long would you say the whole process took you the first time?
Any idea what is causing the ghosting after the fix? My thought is that it was the gorilla glass bending that was creating some interference inside of it, hope i'm wrong.
Also, since we are on the fixing it from the inside page, the clicking noises (i get slight ones if i press/squeeze by audio jack), could they be fixed with some filing. ?
And the big one, could we solder on / replace the inner sdcard chip? perhaps hack a flash/ssd in there if possible?
There are pictures of the TF700's internal components on the iFixIt web site.
I don't think you can replace a BGA chip without damaging the board.
Took me a while to get to it but i opened her up today.
Firstly i recently received my dock back from RMA because the left top corner kept opening up when i tilt the tablet and i had to press on dock to click it back together. RMA people sent it back saying "works as intended, no problems found" with an added touch of removing right side rubber protector (left and bottom still there). Thank you for that..
So i decided to take matter in my own hands and lifted the top left rubber foothold of the dock only to find the warranty "void" screw just fall out... apparently it was never screwed in. OK easy fix, touch of screwdriver and dock is now better than new. Nice quality control there ASUS.
So now excited with first fix, i got to the tablet.
The ghost touch has been plaguing me with the dock attached every time.
I had tf700 unlocked to get the extra performance due to slow flash so no warranty.
Used 2 guitar picks, managed to get the screen off no problems. Tested if it still works, fine there too.
As noted by OP, the orange ribbon causes ghost touches as you press on it.
The white ribbon was in the way so I unplugged it from the screen.
This is the trouble causing area:
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"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
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It was obviously insecurely connected to the touch screen. I tried to stuff some tinfoil to the edges to hold in better, however, upon testing my solution, had a fatal (to the screen) accident.
The white ribbon killed lcd power and I couldnt tell if device was on (which it was). Upon attempting to connect the ribbon back, some contacts touch other contacts on the connector, small electrical flash, and lcd screen is dead... :crying:
tablet still works with dock and hdmi out:
Well since screen was broken already i decided to remove it from the touch glass to further investigate the ghost touch.
This is the problem, the orange ribbon was just glued to the touch screen (pressed between 2 screens) and has no secure connection hold. perhaps the glue unglued or air bubbles get in the way or the 2 screens not hold it tightly enough. It is obviously a design fault.
Whoever decided to use this method and then use same badly secured connection area to apply force to keyboard dock to open/close the device, did poor job...
Sure it is my fault i ruined the screen but i cant help but to feel cheated from ASUS.
I loved the idea of transformer tablet and was a very loyal ASUS fan. Bought it first month it came out, used for a year already.
They advertized a premium top of the line product, use a cheap memory solution which makes customers unlock and
void warranty. And when design failures arise, well, you are on your own.
Every TF700 tablet has this "ghost touch" problem, by design. Some may be better than others. It is just a failed product execution.
Not sure what i will do with the tablet now, have mixed feelings about it.
But as a long time ASUS customer / fan, can no longer recommend their products. Their new "direction" of passing bad designs as premium products, just not what I expected.
0.02
upon further review, the lcd connection wire had some pins burned out from the short, so hopefully lcd screen is alive.
[EDIT]
WOW they sell from china for 45 dollars!! for a tiny piece of wire like that...
anyone with a broken/replacement lcd which has a working wire be willing to salvage/sell theirs?
Just as an update, I've yet to need to take my TF700 apart again. The "Ghost Touch" problem hasactually gone away entirely even with
pressure applied to the effected areas.
Further I've tracked the problem down to the tablet getting hot, very hot. As dankens points out, the glue is all that holds the ribbon in place. It's my suspicion that the glue becomes loose. The ribbon most likely shifts a bit at this point, and the problem arises.
Be careful tf700 owners, once it starts, it doesn't just go away.
dankens said:
upon further review, the lcd connection wire had some pins burned out from the short, so hopefully lcd screen is alive.
[EDIT]
WOW they sell from china for 45 dollars!! for a tiny piece of wire like that...
anyone with a broken/replacement lcd which has a working wire be willing to salvage/sell theirs?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First I'd like to apologize if my post played any role in the eventual damaging of your tablet.
I hate to see such an expensive device broken.
You said it was just some burnt out pins that are problem. I'm pretty sure that I could repair it if you havn't yet bought a new screen.
If you're interested, you can drop me an email -- [email protected]
Well, i went out and got the parts from china/ebay, i think they ship them on wales from china because it took forever!
Started off with the damn white ribbon which cost me $41 for a 4 inch piece of wire!!
LCD was still dead, so i figured it got fried as well. new LCD (no digitizer) cost another $88. After assembling (now i make sure the battery is unplugged first thing, and connected last) i could see the lcd lamp turn on but screen was black.
Next to go was the mobo (i think GPU fried as well), they dont really sell those much, cheapest one was $80 (refurbished).
connected all and viola, back to normal. cost of parts: 209, worth it? not sure.
Definitely a learning experience, damn parts cost more than the tablet itself.
Looking forward to Dell Venue 11 pro (i5 version).
dankens said:
Well, i went out and got the parts from china/ebay, i think they ship them on wales from china because it took forever!
Started off with the damn white ribbon which cost me $41 for a 4 inch piece of wire!!
LCD was still dead, so i figured it got fried as well. new LCD (no digitizer) cost another $88. After assembling (now i make sure the battery is unplugged first thing, and connected last) i could see the lcd lamp turn on but screen was black.
Next to go was the mobo (i think GPU fried as well), they dont really sell those much, cheapest one was $80 (refurbished).
connected all and viola, back to normal. cost of parts: 209, worth it? not sure.
Definitely a learning experience, damn parts cost more than the tablet itself.
Looking forward to Dell Venue 11 pro (i5 version).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For those of you who will attempt to fix the same problem reported in the OP, my 2 cents:
1. After you successfully open the tab, but BEFORE doing anything, turn off the switch in the area circled red in the attached thumbs. This will cut off all electrical current to the components and prevent accidental shorts. It's called "service switch" for that reason;
2. The information given earlier about how the ribbon was bonded to the glass was incorrect. So I deleted that part. I examined under a microscope and it appeared a chemical strip of some kind was applied to the glass for bonding. Apparently, it worked in my case since I put a piece of kapton tape where the ribbon came off the glass, More likely, it was a part of the ribbon that had no function in the operation of the touchscreen. Thus, there ain't no way one can re-bond it once the ribbon's ripped off the glass, undamaged though it might be.
It looks like I'm having the same issue, but I'm confused about where to put the tape. Should I be removing the digitizer for this? Does the tape go RIGHT WHERE the ribbon connects to the glass? Or do I simply fold the ribbon over top of the computer chips on the back of the digitizer and do it there and tape it there?
jneuffer said:
It looks like I'm having the same issue, but I'm confused about where to put the tape. Should I be removing the digitizer for this? Does the tape go RIGHT WHERE the ribbon connects to the glass? Or do I simply fold the ribbon over top of the computer chips on the back of the digitizer and do it there and tape it there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope someone can answer this. I can't figure out where to put the tape from all these posts either. I am about to embark on this journey. I have never disassembled a tablet or smartphone before. I am not that scared because I haven't really used this tablet due to all the problems I have had with it and have moved on the the Nexus 7. I would like to have it back in service though since now it is unusable due to the ghost touches.
Edit:
This might be the info I was looking for from a post above. Thanks.
"So with a piece of tape I found next to me, I carefully rolled the tape over the dented area of the ribbon, and firmly secured the ribbon to the back of the screen preventing it from moving at all."
echardcore said:
I hope someone can answer this. I can't figure out where to put the tape from all these posts either. I am about to embark on this journey. I have never disassembled a tablet or smartphone before. I am not that scared because I haven't really used this tablet due to all the problems I have had with it and have moved on the the Nexus 7. I would like to have it back in service though since now it is unusable due to the ghost touches.
Edit:
This might be the info I was looking for from a post above. Thanks.
"So with a piece of tape I found next to me, I carefully rolled the tape over the dented area of the ribbon, and firmly secured the ribbon to the back of the screen preventing it from moving at all."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I successfully opened it up and taped the white and gold wires down but the problem didnt go away. I am able to reproduce it more now though. I didnt tape the gold wire to the edge of the screen because when I pressed on that with the unit on it didn't cause the issue. I was able to make it happen while opened by touching the gold wire near where the problem spot seems to be but not on it.
Wondering if I build up a protective bump of material like tape inside so the case cant be compressed to cause the issue if that will help. I refuse to send it anywhere or purchase parts. I've spent too much time and effort on this thing. Really sucks to have a tablet that I cant use. I guess I could sell it on ebay for parts.
I'm going to keep bumping this as I discover more.
So I took it apart again trying to rig it up to work.
I found that the gold cable doesn't like being bent the way it is bent from the factory. If you straighten it out and fiddle with it, the ghost touches go away. I have been doing all my testing with the tablet powered on making sure not to disconnect anything. This way I can really get a feel for what is causing the ghost touches. If you intend on doing this look for the service switch and shut it off. Its hard to find even though its right in the middle of everything.
Cable with "33" written on it is the issue. I cut away some of the black plastic they used to keep things neat.
Pulling away the problem cable for your viewing pleasure
Tried to add some foam padding which helped with the case open.
Too much padding to close the case. Might try again with less padding.
So I ended up cracking my screen and installed a replacement last night. Everything seemed fine but I noticed, after putting it back together, that any slight bit of pressure or shock to the top causes my N5 to shut off.
I took it apart again to make sure all of the ribbons were properly connected and to take a second look and everything appears fine. I didn't have this problem prior to the replacement and I was very gentle during the tear down and reassembly so I don't the the CPU or anything on it is damaged. Other than the top being hyper sensitive the phone works perfectly.
Any ideas on what the problem is or could be?
SOLVED(sorry, I don't know how to change the title)
I just wanted to fill in anyone curious or running into this problem in the future on how I resolved the issue.
So after some time I narrowed the problem down to the second back cover (the one with the camera lens and beneath the Nexus branded cover) making contact with the motherboard. More specifically, compressing the power management IC with its aluminum cover. You want to make sure that chip is laid flush which was a PITA, for me at least, because the headphone jack and earpiece speaker wants to push it up and out. What I did was put the jack in, lay the board on top, then gradually adjusted the jack with tweezers while gently pushing the motherboard down until the board was flush, then placing the earpiece speaker in.
I then placed the second back cover on and tightened the screws until I could feel them just slightly putting pressure on the cover. I can't stress how light this pressure is as it is the key in resolving this issue. To compare it to changing your oil filter on your car; when you can feel the filter make solid contact with the block and you then turn it about another half turn to seal it; it's like that but without that half turn.
Anyway, I hope this helps anyone else unfortunate enough to both break their screen and then have their phone randomly shut down when any pressure is applied after fixing it.
hello
TCGUK said:
So I ended up cracking my screen and installed a replacement last night. Everything seemed fine but I noticed, after putting it back together, that any slight bit of pressure or shock to the top causes my N5 to shut off.
I took it apart again to make sure all of the ribbons were properly connected and to take a second look and everything appears fine. I didn't have this problem prior to the replacement and I was very gentle during the tear down and reassembly so I don't the the CPU or anything on it is damaged. Other than the top being hyper sensitive the phone works perfectly.
Any ideas on what the problem is or could be?
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hello where didu buy the screen for your new n5 ? there is any king of intrusion to do it .
thank:good:
josedecuba said:
hello where didu buy the screen for your new n5 ? there is any king of intrusion to do it .
thank:good:
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I bought mine off of eBay and it cost me $150. I could be wrong but it looked like the screen can't be separated from the frame. You might want to keep that in mind when purchasing because there are sellers that sell the screen without a frame. Tearing down the N5 was pretty simple. The hardest part for me was getting the back cover off as there are 4 (two on each side) large clips. If you end up bending the clips any, you can push them back to shape to keep the back from creaking like every Samsung I've ever owned. There's a nice guide on iFixit if you want to look at the process prior to ordering a new part.
I've read from others that you can send your phone into LG and they'll repair the screen for you. When you send it in they'll email a quote to you within a day. The price I keep seeing is $146 and I have no idea what the turn around on that is.