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HTC Apache Audiovox PPC6700 LCD / Digitizer Replacement Instructions

All I have right now is this from someone online who said he had the instructions. If anyone has clear outlined pictures to do this, please post it.
Thank you!
"There are additional screws that need to be taken out. You have to pop off the housing on the top that covers the camera and the antenna port. there will be at least 2 more screws there. Then you will carefully have to pop off the back starting at the bottom by where the stylus is and pull that off. There is probably going to be another screw holding the board in place. It has been a few months since i have done this. Then the board comes out and you have 4 more screws these are phillips heads. That will take the back housing off of the front. Then 4 more screws to take the back plate off of the front housing."

Places i've tried to find LCD Digitizer replacement instructions for cracked LCD
The Audiovox PPC-6700 I have has a cracked screen. I got an LCD replacement, but have no detailed instructions on removing the cracked screen. Here are some useful places i've looked at to find the answer to this issue if it helps you:
http://forum.xda-developers.com ... of course why else would I post it here
http://buzzdev.net/component/option...tart,0/index.php?option=com_phorum&Itemid=125
http://forum.brighthand.com
http://www.mobiletechreview.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php

Not the best...but better than nothing....
Here are my own instructions I started... maybe someone else can expand/refine/clean this up. I'm done with this finally. Changing this is possible, but not necessarily easy. There's this tinny like sticker on the OEM LCD in the phone that's a real pain to pull off of the LCD. The pictures are terrible too...sorry...again..something= better than nothing.
In the end, it works...everything except my toggle does not click in like it used to...that's probably because of that rubber piece I did not know about. (A rubber piece fell out when I was taking it apart and I never figured out where it was supposed to go..so if anyone knows where that belongs and how it should be oriented..please post it.)
I took the stylus out.
I took the miniSD plastic blank out/ or miniSD memory card out just in case.
I took the battery cover off.
I took the battery out.
I set the camera lens in between the picture of the flower and the sun in the back.
I took the rubber piece out..there's a little probe looking thing behind it. (Probably was not necessary to take out.)
I took the back camera cover off. (Remove two Philips head screws with a PH0 head.) There are 7 notches holding it in place. [One above sun/flower adjuster, one slightly to the right above the flash hole, one above the rubber piece, one a tiny bit below the rubber piece, 2 on the insides at the bottom of the philips head screws, and one to the right of the speakerphone.]
I took the green circuit board that has camera flash behind the camera cover off. (Pops up off slot after removing one philips head screw.)
I took the camera unit off. (Do not pull up on camera, just pull the green board up off. The camera is sitting there, the board is wired like the camera flash board was plugged in, just pop it off.)
I took the cell phone antenna philips head screw off that is above where the camera was.
I took the 4 torx .050 allen head type size screws out to remove the back plastic cover of the phone off. Be very careful prying this portion apart. There are probably about 14 notches maybe that holds the back plate on. Some say to start trying to pry it apart from the antenna, but I was able to pry it apart from the bottom part of the phone on the antenna side... not where the antenna is. Be extremely careful how you pry this apart. You have to watch out for the speakerphone wires, there is a plug for what I think might be the keyboard and or LCD, the vibrating weight, and the main board itself... you don't want to scratch or sever any of these parts.
I slid the antenna off of the main board. Lift the board and gently pull up and out the black antenna.
I did not take the speakerphone off, but it looks like you have to pull the wire from the board that would still be attached to the back plate. The vibrating weight is also on the backplate.
I took the main board out of the phone. Keep the slider in mind between the IE button and the recorder button on the side of the phone. The black portion on the main board needs to line up with the actual switch you would slide up or down with your thumb on the side of the phone. When pulling the main board out, slide open the keyboard fully/halfway. Watch for a black rubber piece.
I removed the 4 philips head screws that hold the keyboard portion of the phone to the LCD portion of the phone together and lifted them apart. There is a silver/grey tape that you need to pop up the data cable and pull the tape off to completely separate the LCD portion.
I removed the 4 torx screws from behind the LCD screen and carefully took the LCD portion apart.
...ok well it's getting quite annoying to try and write everything I did after this, but it's pretty self explanatory. If it's not, you probably should not be changing your LCD in the first place anyhow. In order to release the LCD ribbon, the plastic piece at the end will need to pop up at an angle..it's kind of like a winch.
Here's a similar phone that gets taken apart if that helps you out in any way.
.........http://www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf
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re
what is the toggle you are refering to? i took mine apart to clean around the screen without any instructions, and everything still works, but the digitizer has had it, where did you get your replacement from?

I got my replacement from eBay. goldelec
The LCD had a weird rainbow thing going on in the center of it, that you can see if you look at it at the right angle and the bottom corner looks bright white when the screen is on for an extensive period of time. Again, it works...better than what I had. I did not get great instructions, but what he sold me worked fine.
The toggle i'm talking about is the button in between the call and hangup buttons on the front face of the phone. That toggle switch just does not seem connected or stiff like it used to be. I can't "click" up/down/left/right or select anything. I am convinced the rubber piece goes behind it somewhere somehow. I just have to take it apart and figure out the orientation of it.

thanks for these pics & instructions, I just replaced with a part from goldelec on ebay as well (though the auction list instructions as part of the deal, they didn't come with my shipment, so your play-by-play was invaluable)...and there's no screws left afterward! Always a good sign.

Maybe this will help some people...
http://wiki.ppcgeeks.com/index.php?title=How_To:Disassemble_your_6700

lcd replacement instructions
www.htclcd.com has a lot of good lcd replacement instructions also
as well as the LCD's

I just took apart two 6700's today (had to replace the buttons on the face and the circuit board underneath so for now I scavenged the parts from my backup phone)
anyway the phone is surprisingly easy to take apart and surprisingly straight forward.
You do not even have to organize the screws as there is ONLY 2 kinds (I like that) and its obvious when to use each as they are very different in size.
a straight head will take out the star bits if your careful (if you have one of those many different jewlers drivers kits you will find one that fits just fine)
OK cover card stylus battery out.
4 screws. 2 dark large at the bottom 2 small silver at the top of the battery cavity (the one on the top right is hidden underneath a small white sticker)
Now the "top" plastic section comes apart. (the area with the camera) make sure the camera switch is ALL THE WAY one way first it will make things easier later.
Lift from the bottom LEFT there is a tab under the black antennae casing and a tab on the right next to the speaker. Pry gently and it will "pop free" don't YANK as the speaker is attached still.
Pop the speaker out (leave it attached no reason to mess with that wee connector.)
Remove the single screw from the center of those board. NOW caution there is a square white soft "seal" around the led do not lose it.
finger tail "pop" the boards out.
Camera module same thing finger nail "pop" the module pops out but those asside.
3 more larger dark screws remove them now.
Now you need to remove the back half the the shell. Lift with force till you have a small opening and start poking at the hold downs till you can work it free. the hang point is again the black antennae housing. This was the most difficult part to remove and it was not that hard. Use care so it will look clean when you put it back together if thats important to you.
Now you see the mother board. one single screw is left silver middle right side (away from antennae)
Time to remove the main board. you need to use CARE here as its "catched" on opposing side (the usb port and ear piece ports) and the Black antenna housing.) and also atached via a short ribbon cable.
Once you have it free SLIDE out the keyboard this will give you a lot more slack to lift up the main board and tilt it sideways.
Peel the tape carefully once its free it will "pop" free using the same style connector as the camera board etc.. used.
remove and put asside.
now remove the 4 screws holding the keyboard to the phone. its free put asside (those are the only 4 that are different just LEAVE them in there holes they will stay if you don't toss it around)
now remove the 4 black screws holding the back of the keyboard housing down. Pop it free (its not hard there are poke holes made for this like flat screwdriver slots)
once you do this the ribbon will slide through the opening no worries.
now act like your breaking a glow stick and "bend" the case sides so the screen can be popped up a little.
lift the orange tape and you will see a different kind of rubbon connector. its white with a tiny black flap. use a finger nail and lift it will ROTATE 90's to vertical. the ribbon cable will now pop free.
now remove the 2 screws holding down the circuit board. remove it and the button pad (this is why you had to lift the screen a little or these won't come out.
Thats it. I did not go further than this but I do not remember it "looking" like it would be hard at all to get the screen and digitizer out.
This is all straight from memory so read ALL this first and adapt as you progress. DO not take it verbatum.
If something does not want to give ASSUME you forgot a screw and be extra diligent to find it before attempting to increase the amount of force you use though sometimes it just "needs" a wee more force.
Good Luck
I should have taken pics which I usually do when I do this again I will take detailed pics.
Ohh dolt reassembly
do everything in reverse. thats it. here are some tips for the tricky spots.
Reinserting the button pad ribbon. IE reconnect the ribbon BEFORE you put it in. its a lot easier. make sure its in all the way push the flap back down push the tape back down. Easy
Rescrewing the keyboard into the main shell. Get it roughly lined up and LOOK INSIDE one of the holes as you wiggle it around. you will see the screw hole quite clearly when it appears. insert and screw down. Do one on the other side easy as pie.
When you put the main board back in you need to make sure the VOLUME slide switch is in the MIDDLE neutral position so it it lines up with the volume slider itself IE it has to move BOTH direction misalign this and it will be jammed one way or the other. Pop it apart and try again.
When you put the final cover back on make sure the SWITCH for the camera is in the same direction as the plastic lever (the actual switch) so that they line up when you snap them together.
thats it. Really not that hard.

Display slanted ~30 degrees anti-clockwise after reassembling?

Help! - does anyone know what causes the display to "slant" on a Vox?
I just put a new case on my wifes Vox, and now the image shown on the display is slanting about 30 degrees anti-clockwise - a bit like the horizontal hold is off, for those that remember CRT TVs. Just occasionally, it shows correctly for a second when the display first turns on, but then goes back to slanting. Other than the slant, the display looks perfectly OK. The exact same slat shows in horizontal mode with the keyboard open.
I've tried a cold boot just in case, but it's made no difference, and I've also reassembled the case again a couple of times which has also made no difference. When I did the swap, I didn't need to disconnect the screen assembly, but did disconnect the keyboard and number pad. I don't think these connections are bad, but if they are they were the same bad each time I reassembled.
Help! Her who must be obeyed is NOT going to be happy!

Weird - can you supply a photo?
One of the connectors is surely not fitting correctly. The big flat one has to "snap" in - you can hear it if you do it right. The one form the display itself has to be inserted rather deep in the slot - this can only be done if the "lock" flap has been released. You must have done this when you removed the old display.
What did you actually disassemble when swapping cases? Is it possible that you bent a flex-cable too much and have torn it apart? Maybe as well that the connector is no more straight in the slot.

tobbbie said:
Weird - can you supply a photo?
One of the connectors is surely not fitting correctly. The big flat one has to "snap" in - you can hear it if you do it right. The one form the display itself has to be inserted rather deep in the slot - this can only be done if the "lock" flap has been released. You must have done this when you removed the old display.
What did you actually disassemble when swapping cases? Is it possible that you bent a flex-cable too much and have torn it apart? Maybe as well that the connector is no more straight in the slot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Tobbbie,
I did find that by twisting the case just so I could get the display to pop back to normal for a second or two, so I think it must be a bad connection or some dirt in one. I'll have another go at it tonight and see if I can get any further with the help of some compressed air and maybe some electric connector cleaner..
I never actually removed the cable from the display itself - I managed to get the screen and attached circuit boards transferred to the new case whilst still attached to each other.
Cheers,
G

Verizon Galaxy S III (i535) Display colors wrong after glass replacement

To make a long story short, my wife dropped her Samsung Galaxy S3 i535 phone a couple weeks ago and shattered the front glass. I ordered the replacement glass on eBay and proceeded to get it installed this past week.
One of the things I noticed was that none of the repair videos adequately documented how to route and attach the button for the home keys at the bottom of the screen. I was finally able to get the old home button ribbon cable detached from the phone and pulled free from its location. I noticed that there was still quite a bit of adhesive left on the resting location for the home key pc board (located a few mm in front of the ribbon cable that connects to the lcd assembly.)
I made the mistake of thinking that the adhesive consisted of some form of double sided tape, so using a small blade and a pair of forceps I began removing the adhesive. Turns out, the adhesive was attached to a felt-like material that was covering the back of the LCD. Once removed, I noticed that the section of the screen from which the felt had been removed was slightly discolored.
I proceeded to reassemble the phone with the new glass, and it is working correctly, with one exception:
The entire screen (not just the area where the felt was removed) appears to have a greenish tint to it. This is most notable when booting the phone. The SAMSUNG logo appears as almost a neon green (My wife assures me this should be white) and the booting animation is mostly green (She assures me it was multicolored)
A couple of questions here:
Did the piece of material I removed from the back of the LCD cause this problem, or should I be looking at something else for a solution?
Is there any chance this felt-like material contained the backlighting for the LCD Screen?
If not, could just a small section of missing felt allow enough light to escape to discolor the entire screen?
Also, since I obviously can't replace the felt, would coating the expose area with some form of paint or something work to restore the proper coloring to the phone?
I am currently looking at other replacement lcd assemblies which, from what I can tell, simply involve moving the motherboard from the old phone into the new assembly, connecting it, then putting the back cover onto the phone. If I can afford spending the $100-150 that these cost, I would like to avoid it. If this is my only suitable solution at this time, I would like a definitive answer so that I can make the purchase and get her phone back to working order.
Thank You all for taking the time to read my post, I can post pictures later to elaborate on what I am describing, but my wife and I are both at work at the moment and I don't currently have her phone to take a photo of.

Pictures would be nice. However your back light shouldn't discolor your screen. My guess is you loosed a cable or something else causing the screen to discolor.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

screwyluie said:
Pictures would be nice. However your back light shouldn't discolor your screen. My guess is you loosed a cable or something else causing the screen to discolor.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will get pictures posted this afternoon. After taking a little more time to look at it earlier today, it appears that Green and Blue colors are working, I just haven't got any red.
Do you know where to find a diagram of what ribbon connectors control what aspect of the phone?

Pictures
A little late, but here are the pictures of my wife's Galaxy S III (i535)

http://goo.gl/TnXkFC
that will give you an idea of the connector for the screen. you say all you did was replace the glass? not the whole screen? I cant imagine how this would happen unless you damaged the ribbon cable when removing the glass.
unless you want to remove the glass again you'll have to take it apart from the rear, which isn't too hard really. take the back cover off, then remove all the little screws you see. that piece of plastic will come off and this is what you'll get: http://imgur.com/WwoOgMP
the red box is the connector, make sure it's seated. i'm not sure you can get all the way to the digitizer panel from the rear, but this is simple enough it's worth trying before removing the glass again.
also there are plenty of youtube videos on how to teardown the sgs3.
on a side note, task killers are bad for your phone.... use Greenify instead, or nothing at all.

(located a few mm in front of the ribbon cable that connects to the lcd assembly.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If this ribbon cable that connects to the LCD was damaged, it might be your problem.
In that case, you will need another LCD.
It's best to buy the LCD and Glass as one piece.
About $120 or more.

[Q] N5 Random Shut Downs After Screen Replacement

So I ended up cracking my screen and installed a replacement last night. Everything seemed fine but I noticed, after putting it back together, that any slight bit of pressure or shock to the top causes my N5 to shut off.
I took it apart again to make sure all of the ribbons were properly connected and to take a second look and everything appears fine. I didn't have this problem prior to the replacement and I was very gentle during the tear down and reassembly so I don't the the CPU or anything on it is damaged. Other than the top being hyper sensitive the phone works perfectly.
Any ideas on what the problem is or could be?

SOLVED(sorry, I don't know how to change the title)
I just wanted to fill in anyone curious or running into this problem in the future on how I resolved the issue.
So after some time I narrowed the problem down to the second back cover (the one with the camera lens and beneath the Nexus branded cover) making contact with the motherboard. More specifically, compressing the power management IC with its aluminum cover. You want to make sure that chip is laid flush which was a PITA, for me at least, because the headphone jack and earpiece speaker wants to push it up and out. What I did was put the jack in, lay the board on top, then gradually adjusted the jack with tweezers while gently pushing the motherboard down until the board was flush, then placing the earpiece speaker in.
I then placed the second back cover on and tightened the screws until I could feel them just slightly putting pressure on the cover. I can't stress how light this pressure is as it is the key in resolving this issue. To compare it to changing your oil filter on your car; when you can feel the filter make solid contact with the block and you then turn it about another half turn to seal it; it's like that but without that half turn.
Anyway, I hope this helps anyone else unfortunate enough to both break their screen and then have their phone randomly shut down when any pressure is applied after fixing it.

hello
TCGUK said:
So I ended up cracking my screen and installed a replacement last night. Everything seemed fine but I noticed, after putting it back together, that any slight bit of pressure or shock to the top causes my N5 to shut off.
I took it apart again to make sure all of the ribbons were properly connected and to take a second look and everything appears fine. I didn't have this problem prior to the replacement and I was very gentle during the tear down and reassembly so I don't the the CPU or anything on it is damaged. Other than the top being hyper sensitive the phone works perfectly.
Any ideas on what the problem is or could be?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hello where didu buy the screen for your new n5 ? there is any king of intrusion to do it .
thank:good:

josedecuba said:
hello where didu buy the screen for your new n5 ? there is any king of intrusion to do it .
thank:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought mine off of eBay and it cost me $150. I could be wrong but it looked like the screen can't be separated from the frame. You might want to keep that in mind when purchasing because there are sellers that sell the screen without a frame. Tearing down the N5 was pretty simple. The hardest part for me was getting the back cover off as there are 4 (two on each side) large clips. If you end up bending the clips any, you can push them back to shape to keep the back from creaking like every Samsung I've ever owned. There's a nice guide on iFixit if you want to look at the process prior to ordering a new part.
I've read from others that you can send your phone into LG and they'll repair the screen for you. When you send it in they'll email a quote to you within a day. The price I keep seeing is $146 and I have no idea what the turn around on that is.

Green line on Screen

Hello, Was looking for my phone for couple hours today forgot where i placed it. Guess my Son put it in his Bath toy bin and when i found it it was drenched. When i seen it i thought the worst of it the notification light was tweaking out and changing colors from blue to green. So i thought i would try turning on the screen and was completely black. took out the battery wiped out the water and turned it back on i see the green line show up on boot, then booted to the recovery mode and said could not be booted heard a sizzling and popping sound quickly removed the battery, thought my Motherboard was fried then. Put it in rice but i am a busy person i have clients that call me hourly. so i decided to open it. Grabbed my wife's high powered blow dryer and 90% rubbing alcohol and some cotton balls. Took out the main components and dried them completely, seen some corrosion on the boards maybe from previous damages? cleaned it up the best i could with the alcohol and re-dried the boards. and put it all back together and hoped for the best. I was joyed that the fact it booted completely to unlock. but i noticed a faint but annoying green line on the left side of the LCD from top to bottom same as when i noticed when i was at the recovery menu. i tapped on the side it got real thin almost unnoticeable but i'm OCD on perfection. and still find it very annoying upon concentration. Got me thinking, is it the motherboard or the LCD controlled that might be fried or damaged some how. if its the LCD thats a $200 replacement and i can live with that, but motherboard i haven't found a replacement online yet to know prices at that point i wouldn't want to shell out $800 on a new device. Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks

Any help?

When you say a green line, are we talking like a single pixel width green line all the way down the phone?
If you take a screen shot does the picture show the green line? If no you probably have a damaged LCD screen and they don't correct themselves over time.