Hi all, Got a Desire HD and a radio control helicopter (Trex 500).
Would like to be able to look at the heli in flight with the camera (in video mode is ok) and see what speed the rotors are spinning at.
All that's required is a method of adjusting the camera shutter speed while pointing at the heli until the blades look stationary. (Maybe use the volume rocker for adjustment)
Also a little routine to put the revolution figures on screen.
The heli blades should spin at about 2700rpm but for a wider variety of helis, would like to read a range from about 1900 to 3200 rpm.
A shutter harmonic frequency could be used as I dont think the shutter can operate at these speeds.
There are units available that use this method... But the mobile phone with camera already has the hardware needed. Just need a little bit of programming, I'm guessing.
If anyone can help i'm sure there would be a lot of interest from various fields....
Feedback on the idea welcome.....
aero star
PS. Thinking of existing measuring apps available, any reason why shutter speed can't be added to give object speed calculation and result etc etc
PPS. Recording the heli in flight and then applying the Tachometer software would be ok.... might be easier to adjust the shutter speed for the video recording or playback... ???
Related
Hi all, Got a Desire HD and a radio control helicopter (Trex 500).
Would like to be able to look at the heli in flight with the camera (in video mode is ok) and see what speed the rotors are spinning at.
All that's required is a method of adjusting the camera shutter speed while pointing at the heli until the blades look stationary. (Maybe use the volume rocker for adjustment)
Also a little routine to put the revolution figures on screen.
The heli blades should spin at about 2700rpm but for a wider variety of helis, would like to read a range from about 1900 to 3200 rpm.
A shutter harmonic frequency could be used as I dont think the shutter can operate at these speeds.
There are units available that use this method... But the mobile phone with camera already has the hardware needed. Just need a little bit of programming, I'm guessing.
If anyone can help i'm sure there would be a lot of interest from various fields....
Feedback on the idea welcome.....
aero star
PS. Thinking of existing measuring apps available, any reason why shutter speed can't be added to give object speed calculation and result etc etc
PPS Recording the heli in flight and then applying the Tachometer software would be ok.... might be easier to adjust the shutter speed for the video recording... ???
Hi all, Got a Desire HD and a radio control helicopter (Trex 500).
Would like to be able to look at the heli in flight with the camera (in video mode is ok) and see what speed the rotors are spinning at.
All that's required is a method of adjusting the camera shutter speed while pointing at the heli until the blades look stationary. (Maybe use the volume rocker for adjustment)
Also a little routine to put the revolution figures on screen.
The heli blades should spin at about 2700rpm but for a wider variety of helis, would like to read a range from about 1900 to 3200 rpm.
A shutter harmonic frequency could be used as I dont think the shutter can operate at these speeds.
There are units available that use this method... But the mobile phone with camera already has the hardware needed. Just need a little bit of programming, I'm guessing.
If anyone can help i'm sure there would be a lot of interest from various fields....
Feedback on the idea welcome.....
aero star
PS. Thinking of existing measuring apps available, any reason why shutter speed can't be added to give object speed calculation and result etc etc
PPS Recording the heli in flight and then applying the Tachometer software would be ok.... might be easier to adjust the shutter speed for the video recording... ???
To measure the things like fan, you could simply add tachometer app for iOS on your iPhone. The fan blades will chop the light signal to provide the measurement. I would say very need app to have around. Search "Tachometer App for iOS"
Yo fellas, its your"rooting enthusiast SenpaiYank (lmao rooting enthusiast, as if such a thing exists)
Well, as you know, our device has a quite outdated and not so beefy (at all) SoC, the snapdragon 625. While its CPU is not tremendously ridiculously bad, the GPU quite is. This is not a prolem to people who don't care about games but a very prominent one on the other side.
With the help of this trick, tweak, whatever you decide to call it, you'll practically be able to play any game out there that you're not able to or play that same game at a higher setting than you would. The trick consists basically on lowering the screen resolution through a script, trading some of the visual quality for a noticeable night day performance boost. It's a common trick that works on other devices too and I've yet to find a game that had problems with it.
I'm using "profile" scripts to achieve it so you can change it on the go. I feel that way is the most ergonomic and quick one. Just run each script with root permissions according to your need. I recommend FX file explorer. Wanna play a graphically intensive game? Switch to gaming profile. Wanna do something else besides gaming? Switch to the default one.
As I side note, the trick can be done on unrooted users too but you'll need a computer and you'll have to apply the gaming profile permanently (unless you're willing to repeat the procedure whenever you want to go back to default). I can talk about it if you guys get interested on it.
Enough blah blah, how do I do it ?1st - Grab both of them (default.sh and gaming.sh)
2nd - Install (in case you don't have it), open and type this on the Terminal Emulator app:
Code:
su
To attain root access (not sure if needed but, just in case)
Code:
wm density
To get your current screen density value at 1080p (override density field).
Lets imagine you got 432.
3rd - Choose and calculate a new resolution for your gaming profile
So now lets ge to the actual work. Our device native resolution is 1080p (1920x1080) and we want to lower that.
I lower it to 810p (not a standard lmao) which is 75% of 1080p (1440x810) as it gives me agood balance between visual quality and performance. You can go even lower to something like 50% if you're ambituous about performance. At 810p I can expect a minimum of 25% performance uplift (not FPS).
So, to get your gaming profile resolution DPI, you multiply the relative percentage of it by the default profile resolution DPI.
Code:
[COLOR="darkred"]432[/COLOR] * [COLOR="RoyalBlue"]0.75[/COLOR] = [COLOR="Blue"]324[/COLOR]
This value will be your gaming resolution DPI a.k.a. the resolution from your gaming mode script.
4th - Edit default.sh and gaming.sh, apply the new values and save the files somewhere.
default.sh script should contain the values of your default resolution, in this case, 1920x1080 and 432. Size for resolution and density for DPI.
gaming.sh script should contain the values of your gaming profile resolution, in this case, 1440x810 and 324.
VOILÁ
To make the process much much easier and quicker, I use FX file explorer and its shortcut feature so I can switch between both profiles from my home screen pretty easily. Whenever I'm not playing a demanding game Is stick to the default mode, whenever I'm playing a graphically intensive game, I switch to the gaming mode and enjoy the improvement.
Cool, cool. So, is there an actual improvement in performance or is this just one of these so called placebo tricks ?It's definately not placebo and probably the most effective way around of increasing gaming performance!
I've tried to record a test with and without the trick (and failed, it doesn't look as effective in the video but I'll leave it here anyway). Take it with not 2 but 3 grains of salt due to all the uncontrallable factors that involved the scene, the actual gain in practical use is much more noticeable. The benchmark takes place in the super duper hot (pun intended) looking and intensive game, Shadowgun Legends.
On the first video, the device is running the Extreme Kernel, without the tweak, along a CPU cap of 2.5Ghz and a GPU cap of 855Mhz (or something around that). I didn't increase it further to prevent the device from overheating (which it already practically was) and because at a higher GPU clock, I would get arctifacts (my device does not support the 922Mhz frequency).
http://sendvid.com/zi9l8q44
On the second video, the device is running a beta batch of the velocity kernel, with the tweak, along a CPU cap of 1.9Ghz and GPU cap of 672Mhz. I ran the device at a lower speed so you can see how useful the improvement can also be.
http://sendvid.com/fqum12jw
I ran the game at the high graphical setting (30 FPS max) on one of its most intesive scenarios and were at very high ambient temperatures (30C) so again, take the videos with a grain of salt. Used an external gamepad to play and used Scrcpy to record the screen (through wifi so, the quality and framerate from the recording is considerably worse than the actual one). You should also remember the 5-6 FPS strain of capturing the screen.
I also used game bench to monitor the framerate (top right corner) where the last 1 minute of each benchmark were with the screen capturing off. Once again, sorry for the bad quality of the recordings, I'll leave a screenshot of the game bench results.
Not willing to write a outro so, yeah, basically thats it
Here's another sample video, of the same game, this time at medium settings. Along the very noticeable smoother gameplay you can also notice how the GPU load goes down from 95-100 to 70-80 and it becomes less of the bottleneck on the scenario. With the gaming profile could I could actually remove the 30 fps cap and run the game at +30.
Before:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hwPg9KCwc6yLyt919
After:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zDm4wkTHuAjQ7PA5A
When it comes to smartphone photography, the most challenging shots are always going to be night shots. Situations with limited light most often result is grainy unusable photos for devices with weaker cameras. The Kirin 970’s AI chip helps to solve this issue with “Handheld Super Night Mode”.
One way to achieve better night shots is to set your phone on a tripod and let your camera use a longer exposure and higher ISO. This is a bit inconvenient as most people obviously wont be walking around with tripods. To solve this issue, Honor uses the Kirin 970 to add “Handheld Super Night Mode” to their phones. This mode lets you take better night shots without having to setup any equipment.
Handheld Super Night Mode works by using powerful AI algorithms, and the quick processing ability of its Kirin 970. There are several techniques used to enhance your night time photos.
AI Detection of Handheld State
One of the key factors of Handheld Super Night Mode is how the phone uses the AI chipset to detect any hand-held jitter of the phone. To realize accurate and efficient detection, the AI system collected and analyzed tens of thousands of data records reflecting different types of photographers and their camera and tripod usage methods, designing a machine learning logic to understand their habits. As a result of implementing this massive amount of data, the Kirin 970 is able to detect when Handheld super night mode is needed in 0.2 seconds. Using this data, the average users is now able to take better night shots without having to use a tripod.
AI Photometric Measurement
The AI photometric measurement system controls the camera’s light intake. After you tap the shutter button, The AI will automatically set the exposure and number of frames based on the lighting scenario, brightness of the preview image, distribution of light sources, and jitter.
AI Image Stabilization
After all of your frames are captured from your night shot, they are merged into a single image. It is common that surring this process, night shots often turn out blurry. To avoid this, before the synthesizing process takes place, the AI the clearest frames and discards any of the bad ones. The clearest frames are used as the standard for the image, while the other frames that the AI has not discarded are automatically aligned. The AI-powered Kirin 970 chip detects feature points within each frame, matching these points and aligning them to to produce the cleanest image possible.
Image synthesis
The final step in Super Night Mode is image synthesis. For this step, customized algorithms have been computed for the AI system to increase the number of short-exposure frames in bright areas to avoid overexposure and the number of long-exposure frames in dark areas to improve detail retention. Frame differences are detected pixel by pixel. If differences are large, AI determines that alignment failed around the edges and conducts correction and repair to ensure the edge regions are still crisp and sharp enough after synthesis. Noise reduction is performed on multiple frames, thereby improving the image’s signal-to-noise ratio, and achieving a clearer, cleaner, and brighter night shot.
Check out photo samples using walking night mode here.
I recently purchased an A-12 and want to take photos of the moon but they are very grainy, blurred.
Can anyone advise me me on the correct settings to use ?
Thanks in advance.......
So I watched a YT video on the subject, the guy said when you increase the ISO setting you should increase the shutter speed as well.
When I go into Pro mode I can only see 3 buttons - ISO, WB and another that has a slider from -2 ~ +2, I think it's something to do with brightness.
How do I adjust the shutter speed ?
Thanks in advance.....
In general, as long as you are able to set ISO you don't need to worry about shutter speed, it is adjusted automatically according to the scene brightness. Just set ISO to a smaller value and you'll have low noise and low shutter speeds, which, or course, cause the moving things to blur much more, so either a tripod or 4-axis optical stabilization is compulsory for sharp low-shutter-speed/long-exposure pictures. A12 does not have any optical stabilization at all, so you have to use a tripod. Also I recommend to set the exposure adjustment (it's the +/- slider) to a lower value to bring up details on the moon, otherwise it can look totally white.
uluruman said:
In general, as long as you are able to set ISO you don't need to worry about shutter speed, it is adjusted automatically according to the scene brightness. Just set ISO to a smaller value and you'll have low noise and low shutter speeds, which, or course, cause the moving things to blur much more, so either a tripod or 4-axis optical stabilization is compulsory for sharp low-shutter-speed/long-exposure pictures. A12 does not have any optical stabilization at all, so you have to use a tripod. Also I recommend to set the exposure adjustment (it's the +/- slider) to a lower value to bring up details on the moon, otherwise it can look totally white.
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Thanks very much uluruman, I will try that......
why you buy a lowcost device for that?