[Q] Dock not fully flush with tablet? - Eee Pad Transformer Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Hi - just got my dock and had a question for everyone.
When I seat the tablet in the dock it isn't fully flush on the left side (side with the power cable). The tablet sticks out a little on the front to the left of the track pad when closed - almost like it isn't fully seated (but mine is down as far as it will go). The right side seems fine.
Just curious if it is just me - these things are made independently so I can understand they might not fit together like a jigsaw puzzle...

I have to push pretty hard to get it to seat fully. Maybe it's not actually on all the way?

Scott21 said:
Hi - just got my dock and had a question for everyone.
When I seat the tablet in the dock it isn't fully flush on the left side (side with the power cable). The tablet sticks out a little on the front to the left of the track pad when closed - almost like it isn't fully seated (but mine is down as far as it will go). The right side seems fine.
Just curious if it is just me - these things are made independently so I can understand they might not fit together like a jigsaw puzzle...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
push the lock button on the dock all the way to the left. Press the dock in all the way untill it is as flat and flush as you can get it, note: it goes in further when you have the screen tilted forward in the docking port. then make sure the locking mechanism is fully to the right. Then give it an extra push while holding it at the hinge just to make sure ( don't worry, you won't break it, it's all metal).

bedoig said:
I have to push pretty hard to get it to seat fully. Maybe it's not actually on all the way?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here. It doesn't mount smoothly. One side will go all the way down and then I have to push a little harder on the other side until it goes down all the way. I don't force it, but it does require a firm push.
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the replies everyone.
I tried to really apply some pressure - it is fully seated - the margin it is off is very slight - like 1 millimeter or less - I am probably being nit picky about it. Something you wouldn't notice unless you close it and run your hand across the top to see if it is flush. Not sure if the hinge is slightly crooked...
It does take quite some effort to seat though - like everyone is saying you push it in part of the way and it takes a firm push to fully click in.

let me check carefully if I have the issue.

Related

[Project] [05/29/11] [99.90%] Custom dock for the G2/Desire Z that fits with Otterbox

Updates are Bolded. Scroll down to see it.
So looking around, it is obvious that there is no such thing as a dock that fits the G2/Desire Z equipped with an Otterbox. I have heard of a material called Friendly Plastic which is very malleable when prepped but when it hardens, it becomes a very strong plastic. I'm thinking of creating a custom cradle that will fit the Desire Z with the otterbox which will include a charger as well. So I'm going to be buying the material from Amazon and see if I can mold the plastic into a dock that custom fits my phone with the otterbox on.
I'll give updates as I work on this project. It might take a month or two since I am doing my Master's degree, an internship and also working on a film for school (we go into production this week [in fact equipment check out is tommorrow and we shoot thursday]). I'll try to get this thread updated as I work on it so stay tuned.
03/01/11
Ordered parts to create a custom dock. I looked around for Friendly Plastic which is extremely hard to find in California (specifically in the LA area). I found on amazon.com a similar item called Instamorph which I checked their website. It is extremely well planned and pretty much the same item but much cheaper.
http://www.instamorph.com/
Now if you delve into their site, they show you how to do it and towards the bottom of the page, there is also a "techniques" page where you can do some pretty cool stuff with the material at an advanced level:
http://www.instamorph.com/instructions/
They sell specifically via Amazon. If you spend over 25 bucks in on amazon, you might be able to get the super saver shipping, so if you plan any shopping, add this along for free shipping.
another item I bought is a Left Angle Micro USB Extender.
Now this guy is extremely rare and pretty expensive if you get it custom made.
I found a site called www.usbfirewire.com which sells various types of usb and firewire cables for an ok price. I'm saying that it is ok because it is a very unique type of cable that I am looking for therefor it seems to work best for me. This is the one I got:
http://www.usbfirewire.com/Parts/rr-mcbl-ext-xxg.html
2 things to note here: a custom made cable would cost $50, but the one I got cost me a little under 13 bucks.
Another note is that I got the 5inch length cable because I don't want to spend too much time trying to fit 3 feet of cable inside a dock of malleable plastic. I plan on utilizing as little space as humanly possible to give it the cleanest look.
Currently I have spent: $22.45 + $16.45 = $38.90
This seems like alot but it's because again, it is custom.
Once I get it, I will give more updates.
03/04/11
I just received the stuff, both of them. So I can say that they shipped really fast. I'm going to start making a test trial run of the Instamorph pellets and get used to it before I make the actual dock.
This is the Instamorph and what the pellets look like:
The 5 Inch Micro USB Extender:
2 hours later:
Lessons Learned:
1) 150 degrees Fahrenheit is a very low heat level. On my electric stove, it was around a 3 or 3.5 out of 10.
2) Do NOT, I repeat, do NOT have any of the Instamorph beads touch ANYTHING PLASTIC (this includes the otterbox, plastic cutting sheets, saran wrap, anything that you even think might be plastic). Instamorph can and will stick itself to any plastic material especially when it's closer to the 140-150 degree temperature. It is much safer when it's much much cooler. (you can find this out by touch. if it starts to resist molding, then it is probably safe to attempt an imprint, but you should test it with the smooth side of your otterbox. It will take several tries)
This is what happens when you get impatient:
3) Find a surface that is smooth (glazed surface is good).
4) Use metal equipment. Instamorph will NOT stick to metals, so using any material such as a metal spatula or a metal ruler to get hard edges. if you have a good non plastic cutting surface, you can use a knife or blade to cut it for corners and use your fingers to give it an edge.
5) find a curved edge (again non plastic) that you can mold the initial part of the plastic to get a rough shape.
6) You will constantly place the plastic back into the pot to make it soft again if you're doing alot of changes and shaping. You get on average 2 minutes of molding until it gets too hard to mess with.
1 hour later (dinner):
Ok, now that I am back from dinner:
Today I focused on creating the rough shape of the dock. I'm starting from the part that cradles the phone.
First of all, I set my stove on low. I am at 140 degrees Fahrenheit. When you boil the pellets, this is when you pull it out:
Use tongs or something to take out the mass. If you think you're a badass and want to do it with your bare hands, you are most certainly welcome to do so. Here's another look of it when it's pulled out:
I then use the backing piece as a reference. I treated this mass like play-do. I rolled it and then spread it out on the counter surface. Here I force it into a larger mass that is about 3/4 cm thick.
I waited for the mass to cool down to a semiwhite color before I take a spatula to press down on the edges to get a flat boundary. This is what it looks like when it cools down completely:
Note that you see a notch on the bottom right. This is because when you open up the silicone port for the micro USB, it is a small flap. I use this as a reference piece so that I can create a gap for the flap to slide in so it goes straight into the slot without damaging anything.
The next part is to create the side guides to help you glide the phone in when you lock it down.The first part that I worked on is the right side of the cradle which is the bottom part of the phone. Here i created a long rectangle piece. I then use the edge of my kitchen counter (which is rounded, almost circular) to create a preliminary curve. I then measured the general area of it to how high it would guide the phone.
Originally I was planning to have it go all the way up to the end of the phone but I decided it was a bad idea and cut the side down to about halfway to allow me to grab it from the top half.
Now I worked on the left side (top of the phone). Here I noticed that there is a silicone cover for the headphones, so I decided to have the guide as tall as where the silicone port is at.
Now that I have done all that, This is all extremely rough work. Once I assemble the pieces that does not have the Micro USB port, I'll be sanding them down and smoothing it out so it looks better. Here's the general look of how it will be fitted in for now.
First of all this is only the part that the back of the phone will be sliding down. I am planning to create the bottom part that will house the Micro USB cable and the back piece that will hold the backing upright as the back base.
END OF DAY 1.
I will update on a later time. I am on set from 5:30am to 5:30pm so I might have time to work on the next step, but right now I might update this thread next week depending on how much time I have. I am currently juggling an internship, class, film production, post production, and moving to a new apartment (has to be done by the end of this month) so I might not update for a while. Hopefully I can work on it soon.
Small Update: 04/05/11:
After having an extremely hard time molding the material with a spatula and the kitchen counter, I finally caved in and bought a set of clay sculpting tool. (Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SVRSRY ). I'm waiting for it to come in the mail.
Another update to this is that I switched my method for creating the dock. I decided to start from the bottom first. I created the base for the dock by creating the first layer, this is where the general layout of where the microUSB cable will be laying on. Then I worked on creating smaller pieces that fit around the first base that sculpts itself around the cable. I'll be posting some pictures sometime later when I have more time.
April 26 2011:
I should've updated this a long time ago, but my internship has finally come to an end so I had enough time to give an update.
First thing I did was make use of the tool set that I received via Amazon from the above mentioned link:
Now with the use of these tools, I start to put the dock in parts and layers.
The first thing I did was create parts of the first layer, combined them into one piece, then finally heat them in the water pot just long enough to get a small amount of the whole surface moldable without damaging the core structure.
From that I create the next layer which is the top layer:
note here that the top piece (with the weird looking hole in it is made to accommodate the silicone flap that covers the port that comes with the otterbox case.
the last piece hasn't been change too much because I'm still trying to decide if I should have a backing piece for the phone or have a "well" that holds the phone just from the bottom.
the layers will be secured through 4 small metal bolts (the ones that you get from Ikea furniture that feature adjustable shelves [the small metal bolt thingies that you can remove and adjust.])
Another thing to note with this is that when using the pottery tools, you can easily dip the tips in the hot water for 5-10 seconds to heat it up and allow custom targeted molding at parts you specifically want.
Here are some more pics of the parts as I molded them.
5/27/11
So for the past few days I've been tweaking with the design and finding methods to give it a more defined look. While I was at Ikea, I came across these handle pieces that were meant for a particular furniture. They had 90degree angles, metal, straight. So I bought that and use it as a partial mold when I shaped the edges. After working about 6 hours over the course of 2 days, I have come pretty close to what I want before I finish it with sanding and a way to put it together.
Here are the pics of what I have ended up with so far. I still need to sand it, and also figure out a way to combine the pieces without encasing the cable permanently.
Here are the two pieces separated:
This is the bottom piece on where the connector pointed upwards
This is the bottom with the cable in it
This is what the pieces will look when put together (assuming that I can find out a way to combine them together [non permanently])
This is the dock with my phone in it (notice the rubber bands. It's only a temporary measure to keep it together). And It's charging! that means the connection is secure!
This is the side view from the right side
This is the side view from the left side
top view of the dock
From this point, I'd like to ask your help and suggestions as to how I can put the two pieces together to so that if anything happens, I can open it up and replace the cable again. I'm also considering the opportunity if in the far future when I happen to replace my Desire Z I can always remold the piece without doing extensive damage to the cable if it happens to survive.
My next steps are as follows:
Add a piece in the back to support the weight of the phone.
Sand and prep the surface to make it smooth.
Create a method to hold the 2 pieces together
potentially spray paint it to a specific color
Any suggestions would be great since this is my first ever project that is building a custom material.
Thanks!
5/29/11 - 99.90% completed!!!!!
After spending roughly 6 hours on it, I have managed to finish the dock!!!
The first thing I did was to drill 5 holes into the dock to place the metal pin. I started by drilling with a 1/16 drill bit as a guide. and finally followed up with a 3/16 drill bit. I drilled from the bottom piece with the 2 pieces together but stopped part of the way through the top piece because it was unnecessary to drill all the way through. This is for the metal pins to place in between the pieces.
After that I worked on just the top piece and drilled just deep enough for the pin to fit in flush.
Went back to the bottom piece to cover up the holes by using the plastic pieces that got pulled up as I drill to fill in the bottom hole and using the rounded end of one of the clay sculpting tools to jam pack it back down to the bottom to ensure a strong fit.
I then combine the 2 pieces together to see the fit. I noticed that I failed to account for the notch between the pin so I went back to the hot pot and heated up the inside surface of the bottom piece and placed the metal pins in and pushed it in so the notch sinks below the surface (with the help of a hammer [and no, don't go "HULK SMASH" on it, just tap it lightly]).
From that point, I tweaked the fit with the cable inside of it and by looking through the gap, I either added or removed plastic parts so that it finally closes completely.
After that is all done, I started with a 60 grit sand paper (with a hand sanding tool) and worked on ALL the surfaces and sanded until I got 99% of the surfaces rough
I then go back and refit the metal pins to make sure that the pieces still fit and see if I need to make tweaks (which I did since at 60grit, it takes away quite abit of plastic).
I did a little more tweaking with the plastic. Adding and removing as necessary to make it fit flush.
After all that is done, I go back and worked on all the surfaces again with a 150grit sandpaper to give it a smoother finish. and finally finished it off with a 220 grit sand paper.
A good hour and a half later of hand sanding it and sore back and arms the surface is as smooth as a 220grit sand paper can offer.
The last thing I did was reheated the hot pot to around 145 degrees Fahrenheit. I took apart the dock again and this time placed it in the hotpot for around 10 seconds. Just enough for the malleable plastic to "shrink" back into the plastic and give it a smooth finish.
After it's done, I ran the pieces through cold water to set the plastic and put the whole thing together.
Below are the pics of what I have done (again, these are thumbnails. Click on it for full size):
All the pieces completely disassembled. 5 metal pins. 2 plastic parts. Left Angle micro usb extender
Metal pins inserted into the bottom piece
Dock completely assembled
My phone on it
Plugged in!!!!
Landscape mode! (and notice that it's charging! So the cables work!)
More angles
Finally, I have one thing to ask of you guys. Should I leave the dock to look as it is or should I do something about it?
I am thinking about either spray painting it or buy a "skin" (think DecalGirl skins) and cut out the pieces to fit around it.
Tell me what you guys think and what you can think of to make it better! Thanks!
oh yeah, and I finally did something about the back piece of my otterbox when it got screwed up. I did the sandpaper treatment on it and here's what it looks like now:
Sounds interesting, looking forward to seeing your progress/results.
I'm currently in the process of ordering parts. So here's a question for everyone:
Which would be the best extension port for the dock. Standard USB, Mini USB, or Micro USB.
My plan is to mold a Micro USB male head to another adapter to give it the most commonly used female port. The idea is to plug in a cable into the dock to minimize the chance of the inner cord being damaged and moved unncessarily. (think of the docks you get off ebay that just have a male port to plug in the phone and a female port out the back end so you can plug in a cable of your choice (length, brand, etc)
Here's a poll of what your preference:
http://www.polljunkie.com/bA7AA5/Poll10601.aspx
Updated: 3/4/11
Any progress/updates?
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using XDA App
Unfortunetly, not yet. I have to get through this month first. I need to have a first cut of my film out very soon, internship, finish moving to a new apartment and deal with classes. I will be promptly resuming this project when this month is over.
Sent from my Desire Z via XDA App
small Update. Check bolded txt in OP
Updated April 26. Bolded text in OP
Updated May 27. Bolded txt in OP
mputtr said:
From this point, I'd like to ask your help and suggestions as to how I can put the two pieces together to so that if anything happens, I can open it up and replace the cable again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why not try Moulding little tabs onto one side & then a hole on the other so it kinda snaps/slides together. That way you can always reopen it at a later date
KarlosTheJackal said:
Why not try Moulding little tabs onto one side & then a hole on the other so it kinda snaps/slides together. That way you can always reopen it at a later date
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so you're saying to have one of the pieces have tabs that extends to the other piece and add a hole to kind of screw it in? Sounds like a good idea as well!
I'm a little fuzzy on the visual of it, is it possible for you to provide a visual example so I might be able to replicate it? Thanks!
Updated! 99.90% done!
does anyone have suggestions or comments on how I can improve on the dock?
The finished project looks awesome man! I think, like you said, if you added some type of black texture or skin to it that it would look fantastic and even store purchased. Great craftmanship.
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA Premium App
PatrickHuey said:
The finished project looks awesome man! I think, like you said, if you added some type of black texture or skin to it that it would look fantastic and even store purchased. Great craftmanship.
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ah, so you think a black coloring to the dock would work? I'll test that out!
I'm also thinking of maybe taking the top piece back into work and take out more of the recess/well for the phone and maybe fashion a silicone or softer piece for the phone to rest in and might look better. (that or get a sanding head bit and sand it down till it's smooth)
Would you suggest using a skin (like a sticker type material) or just spray paint the darn thing?
as usual for those who have read any of this, I would like to get suggestions on what I can do to improve upon it.
Currently I'm also researching a method on how to activate the phone's "dock" mode. As far as my research goes, some android phones have a special magnet inside of it that reacts to polarity (one polarity for car mode and the other for home dock). I also read that potentially, HTC made a special micro usb cable that has 1 additional pit that "activates" the feature. I do not really know much of this so I'm trying to figure out how to make this happen. If someone here happens to know, and it can be something I can physically manipulate, I'll modify the dock to include the manipulation.
and again, Thanks for the praise and your suggestions!
nice work and detailed instructions are always nice. I would definitely spraypaint it black. Did you form the top and bottom parts by hand? they look a litte bumpy to me.I thought about doing this for mine and integrate it into my desk.
As for the docking mode (deskclock) i use Alarm Clock Plus. It switches into dockmode when you plug it in. I think they getting the info if its docked either from the orientation of the phone and its usb connection or the poweradapter - maybe both. Maybe its the dock im using but i did't notice some special wiring oder plug.
dieterxy said:
nice work and detailed instructions are always nice. I would definitely spraypaint it black. Did you form the top and bottom parts by hand? they look a litte bumpy to me.I thought about doing this for mine and integrate it into my desk.
As for the docking mode (deskclock) i use Alarm Clock Plus. It switches into dockmode when you plug it in. I think they getting the info if its docked either from the orientation of the phone and its usb connection or the poweradapter - maybe both. Maybe its the dock im using but i did't notice some special wiring oder plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
everything is formed by hand mostly. the curved parts had to be done by hand, but I did take down alot of the uneven by sanding it down for a good hour and half.
I'm currently using Alarm Clock Extreme and it does not have the dock mode, which bums me out, but I'm supplementing it with Night Clock which is a really neat app. I also paired it up with Automate It by adding a kill app on unplug action so it's sorta kinda like dock mode.
do you have any suggestions as how I can make the surfaces smoother? Is there something that I can do or get to remove the bumps more effectively?
i would use some kind of metalblocks and put the dock between them but that only works before putting it all together. Or maybe just wrap the plastic around the metalblock so that its hollow.
I probably wont be doing anything like messing with metal material since I do not have the necessary equipment nor do I have the time and money to afford that.
But I'm thinking of potentially using a skin type material and spraypaint it + my own design for it.
I had some fun with the dremel tool at my schools workshop room so I was able to get the right depth and well for the phone to slid in.
I wonder if there is anything like silicone material that can be injected on top of the material so I can make an impression (safely) and so when it sets it actually is cushioned rather than placed on the hard plastic.
I'll see if I can post more pics if I deem that the extra sanding I did made any difference.
Any updates to this?

[Q] Is docking the Transformer causing damage?

I've noticed that when I want to dock my TF that it takes a fair amount of pressure until the unit is properly locked and seated. I was wondering if this pressure could be causing any kind of damage... but more specifically with light bleed. My last TF was dropped and sustained a mild/moderate hit on the frame which clearly caused more/worse light bleed.
So I guess my question is... does anyone know a way to properly dock the TF with little or no pressure? I'm also thinking my dock might be defective... it's a B40 serial number and the locking mechanism does seem kind of cheap/shotty...
i was wondering if sliding it around to get it docked is going to eventually scratch up the tablet...i can't always get it docked in one try....would have been nicer to have a rubber type thin seal around the dock/tablet instead of metal on metal.
Hrm, my dock has a thin layer of velvety material on the inside of the docking mechanism so it's not metal on metal/glass for me...
It's pretty inevitable that the dock will eventually leave some kind of marks. I notice on the back of my tablet, if I hold it at just the right angle to the light, I can see a small curved mark appearing where it rubs against the dock as I remove the tablet.
I'm curious -- does anybody else's dock release switch stay in the "unlocked" position with the tablet removed? Mine does, but I am pretty sure when I initially got the tablet, it would spring back to the "locked" position once the tablet was removed...
jmccarter said:
Hrm, my dock has a thin layer of velvety material on the inside of the docking mechanism so it's not metal on metal/glass for me...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine has that too (they all do), but it is still starting to leave a mark on the rear of the tablet case.
i'd rather have the velvity stuff outside the docking area...on the metal casing.
knoxploration said:
I'm curious -- does anybody else's dock release switch stay in the "unlocked" position with the tablet removed? Mine does, but I am pretty sure when I initially got the tablet, it would spring back to the "locked" position once the tablet was removed...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When undocked, my lock seems to go to what ever position it feels like. Like I said in my first post, I think the design is pretty poor (on my B40...but perhaps on all).
GetLaid said:
When undocked, my lock seems to go to what ever position it feels like. Like I said in my first post, I think the design is pretty poor (on my B40...but perhaps on all).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great, not just me then. Thanks for the confirmation...
jmccarter said:
Hrm, my dock has a thin layer of velvety material on the inside of the docking mechanism so it's not metal on metal/glass for me...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here.
Also, my tablet has a thin piece of clear plastic on the bottom where it fits into the dock. At first I thought this was part of the packaging and was going to remove it. But then I noticed there was hole for the docking port and decided to leave it in place.
jerrykur said:
Same here.
Also, my tablet has a thin piece of clear plastic on the bottom where it fits into the dock. At first I thought this was part of the packaging and was going to remove it. But then I noticed there was hole for the docking port and decided to leave it in place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh man... I removed my piece...

[Q] Anyone have issues with their keyboard dock?

I bought my tablet with the TF201 keyboard a while back since its identical to the TF700 keyboard. It's always connected and locked, but every once in a while i notice my external mouse, which is plugged into the usb port of the keyboard, stops working due to the fact that the keyboard magically unlocks itself from the tablet. the lock bar or whatever it's called doesn't retract though so I can never tell unless I try to slightly lift the tablet away from the keyboard and lo and behold it comes right off. I noticed this tends to happen more often when the tablet is opened about 100 or so degrees from the keyboard.
Do you think I may have a faulty keyboard or has this happened to others?
Mine locks properly, so I can at least say it's not normal.
Mine locks safely too. But I do have to push relatively hard until it "clicks" into the dock and to be extra safe I tend to slide the lock slider all the way to the right.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using xda app-developers app
+1. I've had my TF700 + dock since July 16, 2012. No issues as far as connections between them are concerned, though the tab sits a little loose. The clasps don't grab the tablet tightly anymore. There is some play about 5 degrees. Anyone knows how it can be tightened again?
airmark said:
Mine locks safely too. But I do have to push relatively hard until it "clicks" into the dock and to be extra safe I tend to slide the lock slider all the way to the right.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the weird thing though, mine clicks and locks but i can only push the slider to the mid point.
My Transformer doesn't stay tight on the dock any more, because the tiny little clip inside the tablet itself has broken on one side (I think). The result is that it seem to clip in correctly, but then I can rotate it to the right and the left clip come free without any resistance.
I've done quick searches to find people with similar problems, but haven't found anyone else yet. Doesn't look very fixable, due to the size of the small clip. Don't know if you've got the same issue, but to check, look where the dock latches onto the tablet with a good light and see if your clips are still there.
oblib__ said:
My Transformer doesn't stay tight on the dock any more, because the tiny little clip inside the tablet itself has broken on one side (I think). The result is that it seem to clip in correctly, but then I can rotate it to the right and the left clip come free without any resistance.
I've done quick searches to find people with similar problems, but haven't found anyone else yet. Doesn't look very fixable, due to the size of the small clip. Don't know if you've got the same issue, but to check, look where the dock latches onto the tablet with a good light and see if your clips are still there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Amazing... we both post on the same day... could be this is the start of an epidemic of broken platic clips inside the tablet section. Not sure if they are plastic or metal but they do look plastic and in any case clearly are not fit for purpose of docking/undocking dozens of times a day.
I sent mine back... see my post. They are blaming me! I barely had it 6 weeks and it never left my house. Never dropped. Only ocassionally used extra force to dock it because if you don't then the locking tab does not click!!!! SIGH
the only problem that i have with the dock is that the spring in the hinge has gotten loose
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using xda app-developers app
wailim_2002 said:
Amazing... we both post on the same day... could be this is the start of an epidemic of broken platic clips inside the tablet section. Not sure if they are plastic or metal but they do look plastic and in any case clearly are not fit for purpose of docking/undocking dozens of times a day.
I sent mine back... see my post. They are blaming me! I barely had it 6 weeks and it never left my house. Never dropped. Only ocassionally used extra force to dock it because if you don't then the locking tab does not click!!!! SIGH
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I posted in your thread as well -- locking pin snapped off yesterday. It is plastic, which makes it a Prime example <pun intended> of use of plastic in places that could do with metal. :S I'm going to take it up with ASUS Netherlands once my blood pressure comes within more or less normal limits.
MartyHulskemper said:
I posted in your thread as well -- locking pin snapped off yesterday. It is plastic, which makes it a Prime example <pun intended> of use of plastic in places that could do with metal. :S I'm going to take it up with ASUS Netherlands once my blood pressure comes within more or less normal limits.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We should track our own and any subsequent replies over time ... as long as it takes ... really ASUS should consider recalling these to reinforce the pins. Its highly likely some will witness their tablet fall off the dock and smash in front of their eyes... while assuming they forgot to secure it properly!
I have confirmed that It was plastic materials.
When it first happened to me about 1.5 months ago, ( at that Time, I didn't know why it was doing that)
I noticed that my Tf700 does not lock properly, doesn't make a clicking sound, doesn't hold the device in place,,,and etc.
So at that point, i decided to pull it out of the key board ( i always had it with my keyboard as it was mostly used for my university lectures)
As soon as I pulled it out, i noticed that plastic pieces about ~5mm fall out.
So as of now, my solution was to have an armour-like screen protector and skinomi carbon series (to add a bit of bulk).
It doesn't lock in, but it s enough to have friction to hold it in place a lil more nicely.
I used quite a few strips of heavy-duty doublesided tape.
choiyt317 said:
I have confirmed that It was plastic materials.
When it first happened to me about 1.5 months ago, ( at that Time, I didn't know why it was doing that)
I noticed that my Tf700 does not lock properly, doesn't make a clicking sound, doesn't hold the device in place,,,and etc.
So at that point, i decided to pull it out of the key board ( i always had it with my keyboard as it was mostly used for my university lectures)
As soon as I pulled it out, i noticed that plastic pieces about ~5mm fall out.
So as of now, my solution was to have an armour-like screen protector and skinomi carbon series (to add a bit of bulk).
It doesn't lock in, but it s enough to have friction to hold it in place a lil more nicely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, I found the piece of plastic too, which is what made me look for where it came from.
I have gotten into contact with ASUS Support in the Netherlands, and without even seeing what the issue is, they said that as far as they are concerned, it is user-induced damage and therefore not covered by warranty. I am planning of getting into contact with my lawyers and just have a talk if this is something they'd be able to crack open. I'll let you guys know the outcome of said talk.
Sent from a comfortable chair from the outer ring of Purgatory. The red guy asked me to say 'hi'.
the problem i started having with my dock is ill clip it in and close it. when i come back to it and open it up the screen doesnt want to come on even if i press the power button. if anyone knows a solution for this let me know please it would be greatly appreciated.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using xda app-developers app
With regards to the broken/insecure docking issue, I've posted a POLL in the transformer forum:
http://www.transformerforums.com/fo...snapped-off-poll-you-affected.html#post257185
I would like to see how many people are affected.
oblib__ said:
My Transformer doesn't stay tight on the dock any more, because the tiny little clip inside the tablet itself has broken on one side (I think). The result is that it seem to clip in correctly, but then I can rotate it to the right and the left clip come free without any resistance.
I've done quick searches to find people with similar problems, but haven't found anyone else yet. Doesn't look very fixable, due to the size of the small clip. Don't know if you've got the same issue, but to check, look where the dock latches onto the tablet with a good light and see if your clips are still there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you say rotate it to the right do you mean lift the right side and turn the tablet anti-clockwise and then the left clip comes free...
or do you mean lift the left side and rotate it clockwise (right) and the left clip comes free? :cyclops:
wailim_2002 said:
When you say rotate it to the right do you mean lift the right side and turn the tablet anti-clockwise and then the left clip comes free...
or do you mean lift the left side and rotate it clockwise (right) and the left clip comes free? :cyclops:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Choice 2. My left clip is broken, so the left side can lift free. Doing so causes it to rotate clockwise (right).
wailim_2002 said:
When you say rotate it to the right do you mean lift the right side and turn the tablet anti-clockwise and then the left clip comes free...
or do you mean lift the left side and rotate it clockwise (right) and the left clip comes free? :cyclops:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
oblib__ said:
Choice 2. My left clip is broken, so the left side can lift free. Doing so causes it to rotate clockwise (right).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On mine, both clips have degraded severely. However, the release from the dock is right side first.
Broken left clip here... I noticed it today. And I'm pissed. What a BIG FAIL from Asus. I won't even bother trying to get it repaired, it's unlocked anyway.
I was beginning to love this thing since I installed CleanROM Inheritence... It's was a nice and fast tab. Well, now it's a broken and fast tab. I'm thinking of selling it before it falls into pieces. It's sad because I love the size, the keyboard, Android, etc.
The right clip will probably fail soon too. What a let down...

[Q] Broken lock pins for the dock question.

My tablet was yanked while pulled in to charge and open while connected to the dock. The result is the locking pin on the left side broke off when the tablet portion hit the sofa edge. This leaves. he right locking pin as the only one to hold the tablet when it is docked. The left side is loose and can easily lift up causing the connection to the dock to separate. This happens when the combo is open or closed.
-I'd rather not get gehtto fab with tape as a means to keep the left side securely attached. Anyone who is DIY handy have any suggestions that may work better than tape?
-I've thought of buying a combo case for the tablet and keyboard dock thinking that would keep both firmly attached on the left side. Anyone who owns one of these cases, do you think the case snug enough that it may help keep the two together?
I will include two pictures to show what I mean regarding the pins.
Thanks for any suggestions.
As a matter of fact, I think I have just what you are looking for
Check out this thread around post 52
http://www.transformerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33624
berndblb said:
As a matter of fact, I think I have just what you are looking for
Check out this thread around post 52
http://www.transformerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33624
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are my hero for the morning. I will be trying this today!

[Q]tf700 loses connection with dock over and over [SOLVED]

I bought my tf700t with tf201 dock second hand some 2 months ago. Everything worked perfectly up until 2 weeks ago. The previous owner had the thing rooted (build-number: TF700 CROMi-Xenogenesis 5.2.2-10.6.1.27.5 WW DEODEX). There are lots of people on the internet with the same kind of problems on unrooted tf700's so I don't expect it to be a problem with rooting.
What happens?
- The connection between dock and tablet seems to get lost, found again, get lost again etc. within minutes.
- I have a SD-card fitted in the dock and on the bottom of the screen I get messages that tell me he has found a SD-card. Then apparently it loses it again because a few minutes later the same message pops up again and again etc.
- In the beginning (and according to other people on the web still continuing) the tablet would only recognize the dock when charging. Without being plugged in it wouldn't be recognized at all. I opened up the dock and sprayed some contactspray where the cables come out of the hinge and want to connect to the small cable plugs on the dock, That seems to at least have worked to a certain extent, tablet and dock see each other. It says the keyboard should be used but then most keys won't work nor will the trackpad. Only the top row of keys keep functioning (except only the key in the top left corner (that flips a page backwards). But then again, sometimes you can use the keyboard on the dock for a while and then it's stops again (except for the top row of keys. They always work.)
- If I charge my dock to the max and then connect it with the screen most of the time it tells you that the battery of the dock is drained. Sometimes wiggling te tablet in it's slot brings back the battery to life.
Does anybody have a (possible) solution for these problems? I would be so grateful and so would a bunch of pitiful people roaming the back alleys of the internet in the hope of salvation.
One more thing. Several complainers have swiched dock and tablets and the problem seems to be with tablet. If the tablet is ok, then you fit any keyboard. If the tablet is dodgy it won't connect properly with any dock. At least that's what I hear.
Is there anybody with the brilliant solution or a hint at least? I started writing my bestseller on this thing, but like this it's going back to the study again in stead of to a nice terrace in the sun with drinks available.
Thanks in advance for all your trouble.
It looks like the problem is solved. I took the hinge apart, tightened all screws and bolts and put it back together. That seemed to do it .
Just so people don't have to look any further, here's how you take the hinge apart:
- Take out the 2 bolts on the outside of the hinge.
- On the inside of the hinge, on 'the bottom' are 3 pieces of plastic strip or adhesive tape (one approx. 12 cm long on the left side, one approx. 4 cm on the right side and on very small piece in between of 0.5 cm). Using tweezers and/or a scalpel-like knife, carefully peel away the longest strip of plastic working from the outside inwards. You will find three screws within the first 5 cm or so. Take them out. Stop peeling, leave the plastic strip around the data connector attached and start on the other end of this plastic strip, working from right to left. You'll find a screw immediately. Take it out, leave the rest of the strip attached. The 5th screw you'll find underneath the outer end of the 4 cm strip on the right side of the hinge.
- Now you can split the hinge in 2 parts. If necessary, use a small screwdriver at the outer ends to carefully wedge the hinge apart.
- In the part that's still connected to the dock you'll find 4 screws. The outer 2 have a tendency to become loose. Tightening them 'repaired' my dock.

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