Hey!
Anyone knows if it's possible to connect a external microphone in the 3.5mm jack. Would be nice to be able to plug in a better microphone when recording music shows etc. Shouldnt it be possible since you can speak through the htc-headset?
I don't think that you can plug a mic in it, this jack is "way-out" only, not "in"...
At least i never tried, but i guess it's how it works (if anyone can confirm this or prove me wrong ).
It's a 4 pin 3.5mm TRRS connector. It has a mic connector built in as well as the audio and ground.
I don't know if you can get a microphone with that specific connector, look it up and see... but it would be pretty easy to make your own connector if you cannibalise a headset or something like that and then connect whatever mic you wanted to that.
Not sure about the quality, but dealextreme sku.20714 seems like to fit your description.
I bought one of these some time ago to connect my Klipsch headphones.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3-5mm-Headpho...GS-/280544944694?pt=UK_Mobiles_Accessories_RL
It is still recognised as a headset even when there are no headphones plugged into it.
So the quality for what you want is probably poor BUT it does prove that it can be done.
Perhaps one of these PLUS a good quality mic PLUS a soldering iron is the answer
On my tablet I always get a slight static hiss/background noise during and a couple seconds after the tablet plays any sound.
This seems very odd to me since it's not affected by how loud the volume is (as long as sound is on, not at 0).
I don't have this on any other outputs (HDMI/BT/USB OTG/build-in speakers, all fine)
Every headset/speaker I use outputs this from cheapo Samsung in-ears to a quite expensive 2.1 setup.
I'm used to having a bit of noise at the highest volume levels (which for ex. my Note 3 has) and consider this normal.
But this is very annoying, especially when navigating the UI as I always have to endure this hiss for a couple of seconds.
I'm not sure if it's a hard or software issue, since normally static hiss always occured to me on lower-end devices with higher volume, and if it were a software issue should it not also do this on all outputs (including digital).
I haven't come across anyone with a similar issue.
Yep, this happens for me as well on my LTE version. It also happened on the Nexus 7 2013. The noise is from interference from the other board components in close proximity to the audio chip.
jaredmorgs said:
Yep, this happens for me as well on my LTE version. It also happened on the Nexus 7 2013. The noise is from interference from the other board components in close proximity to the audio chip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I also have the LTE version.
Bleh, that's no fun and really annoying. I have never had anything from a reputable brand do this.
The next test would be to see if it does it through USB Audio or Bluetooth Audio. I have a Microsoft LifeChat 3000 headset that I have successfully connected to the tablet, which doesn't seem to have the hiss. It could be due to the impedance of the speakers of this headphone compared with my Shure SE425 IEMs that I notice it more. I also use Tri-flange tips on my IEMs which makes everything more pronounced.
jaredmorgs said:
The next test would be to see if it does it through USB Audio or Bluetooth Audio. I have a Microsoft LifeChat 3000 headset that I have successfully connected to the tablet, which doesn't seem to have the hiss. It could be due to the impedance of the speakers of this headphone compared with my Shure SE425 IEMs that I notice it more. I also use Tri-flange tips on my IEMs which makes everything more pronounced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did, My USB headset doesn't have this issue (plugged into the shield with a USB OTG cable), my 3.5 mm headphones and cheapo IEMs don't have the issue when plugged into a Sony SBH50 connected to the Shield (via Bluetooth), but they do have the issue when directly plugged into the Shield. Meh.
So that proves that it is the shielding on the 3.5mm jack.
Unfortunately, that's case closed. If it's any consolation, you get used to it after a while.
An update:
I tested with my PC's line-in input, and when I put it in any 24bit mode sound is crystal clear 24/7, I don't get any issues.
mic-in sounds garbage but that's to be expected (I can hear the tablet's internals cause distortion all the time.), it also doesn't always get detected by the tablet.
Is this of the lower impedance that the static noise gets filtered out? I'm not an audio expert.
Hi all,
I have purchased a PX5 unit made for my 2008 Mazda 6. Unfortunately, it suffers from an issue with the audio quality. Whenever the audio level is above 0, a static/interference noise can be heard, and the pitch of this sound changes when driving, similar to alternator whine.
This is relatively loud, and can be heard even when moving or when sound is at low volume. If required, I could create a recording of the noise. I have updated the MCU to the latest available version to no avail.
I am relatively confident at soldering and am willing/able to take the HU apart to make modifications if anyone has any recomendations as to what I can do? I have seen various hardware mods floating around, but nothing that conclusively seems to say it will help with my issue.
There is also a large amount of static/interference when using Bluetooth for calls, but mainly to the party not connected to the car (IE the person calling in can hear the noise). Unsure if this is related, but the noise appears to be a similar pattern and pitch.
This issue is present both with the car running and off, and also was present on a bench power supply during testing.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Should be an easy fix. https://www.crutchfield.com/ISEO-rg...car/noise_suppressors_installation_guide.html
Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the post, but unfortunately the noise is present even when connected to a bench supply, with no additional interference from the car present. There is no amplifier in this scenario, so I am fairly confident the issue comes from the HU itself. I'm not sure if there may be something I can re-route or shield inside the unit to minimise it? I don't mind if I can't eliminate it entirely, but I would. Like to minimise the issue.
Thanks!
I found that I was able to remove one aspect of the noise by turning off the colour cycling of the front LEDs. This was causing a kind of pulsating low pitch siren type noise in the audio.
It appears that having the front LEDs on anything other than full power or completely off causes the noise to varying degrees.
I still have a fair amount of cracking/static type noises, but I was able to somewhat lower the volume and improve the quality by attaching RCA cables directly to the outputs of the BD37033 chip. I'm not entirely sure what occurs after this chip in terms of sound processing, as in was difficult to trace out on the PCB. Interestingly, this modification means that the static is produced even when the unit is booting or on mute, which didn't occur before. I found this odd, as the mute functionality (And all other functionality as far as I was able to tell) is retained.
I assume the signal goes back to the MCU before going out to the factory RCA outlets and amp.
If anyone knows more, I would lose to hear it!
I have the same issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTNJVWFpBlw&feature=youtu.be
There is a static / hissing sound when the volume is on, changing volume doesn't affect it.
I might to try to upgrade the amp chip to Pioneer PA2030A from TDA7851 to see if it will fix it...
Hi.
I have the same issue with my radio in Mazda CX-9 with Bose.
Version of the radio:
PX5 Malaysk 6.0.1 MXC89L 20170901.180527 MCU VERSION MTCD_KLD_V_2.57_1 - now I have the newest version, and the problem is still the same.
I have a lot of noise when searching for something on the radio, or connecting something under USB (at the rear panel - when I'm connecting in the front - it is OK), while listening to music quietly.
What I've done so far:
1. Upgraded to the latest version of Malaysk with of course wipe all data - nothing changed.
2. Installed: anti-interference voltage filter, it works because I can not hear feedback from the car's electrical system, the alternator is not audible anymore.
3. I wrapped the cables on the back with aluminum foil plus tape insulation - nothing changed, maybe a little less noise from the radio, but still I hear all the time.
4. I connected back to the original radio - no noise - absolute silence from the speakers
The most annoying is the increasing noise of the car during driving, I have to manually adjust the volume, which does not change anyway.
Is "the cheap" radio from China, I dont know what to do.
I think that the problem is that the radio does not work well with the Bose amplifier.
I had Mazda CX-9 without Bose, and installed cheap amp with cheap radio from China - and everything worked perfect, no noises at all ! Because the amplifier was cutting out this noise with no problem.
Here the Bose amp have huge problems with that noise, I don't know why.
This noise is nothing but the noise of data transfer over the radio, which I hear all the time once more quietly and louder, as I connect, for example, a car camera to the rear USB, this noise is unbearable.
The best solution, IMHO is to remove the Bose amplifier from the car and connect the radio to another A / B class amplifier, which is much better at reducing these disturbances.
But it is a lot of work to make the whole installation work perfectly.
Me too...
I have also got this issue with my MTCD GS unit. My car has Bose also. I have tried earthing various point/things with the head unit hanging out of the dash but no change. I have also tried disabling the WiFi & Bluetooth and again no change.
I noticed the other day when I put my headlights on and the backlights on the unit came on the noise increased slightly so there might be something in the LED thing.
Andy
Exactly same thing for me too. Cheap units..
Hi.
I'll try with:
Car Stereo Audio Wire to 4 Channel RCA High to Low Audio Level Converter Adaptor
And let you know if it is OK.
I wonder, after all, the Chinese radio has a low output to the amplifier, just through the RCA plug, it can try this connection yet.
Connect to the Bose amplifier via the RCA plugs
PRODUCT FEATURES:
4 Channel Hi/Lo Audio level converter
Converts speaker level audio to line level (RCA) output
Adjustable output level to allow input to suit various amplifiers
Also eliminates signal noise
Maximum input from speaker level: 100 Watts
The noise is even related to the touch screen on my side, touching the screen changes the hiss
Removing the Bose amp and connecting a new amp with just RCA cables has improved the issue, but not eliminated it. My next step is to remove the amplifier chip entirely and see if that makes a difference (As I am only using the low level outputs I do not need the amp chip)
kaise123 said:
Removing the Bose amp and connecting a new amp with just RCA cables has improved the issue, but not eliminated it. My next step is to remove the amplifier chip entirely and see if that makes a difference (As I am only using the low level outputs I do not need the amp chip)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried connecting via normale speaker lines, using a HLA? -> I also have a factory amp and using the RCAs got me ground issues - not present with the normal lines, so I ordered a HLA.
You can lower the output to max -15db in factory settings which I use in the meantime..
Xorit said:
Have you tried connecting via normale speaker lines, using a HLA? -> I also have a factory amp and using the RCAs got me ground issues - not present with the normal lines, so I ordered a HLA.
You can lower the output to max -15db in factory settings which I use in the meantime..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for the answer.
I reduced the decibels to -9dB and noticed that it is much better, but of course the noises are only less audible.
I'm waiting for High quality audio converter to RCA cables, and let you know and let if I have eliminated the noise completely.
DD
dranet said:
Hi, thanks for the answer.
I reduced the decibels to -9dB and noticed that it is much better, but of course the noises are only less audible.
I'm waiting for High quality audio converter to RCA cables, and let you know and let if I have eliminated the noise completely.
DD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Should recieve my HLA today and will report back aswell. I have given up on the RCA jacks from the HU though.
I found that the RCA jacks were considerably better than the speaker level outputs as far as both noise and quality go. I was already using the speker level outputs when I initially noticed the issue.
kaise123 said:
I found that the RCA jacks were considerably better than the speaker level outputs as far as both noise and quality go. I was already using the speker level outputs when I initially noticed the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. I was able to tune the the "static noise" out of my system using a 3-way electronic crossover/ line driver buy turning down its gain till the noise went away. Lost a bit of volume, but just had to turn the head unit volume up a bit more to make up for it. Not much you can do with speaker level inputs except not to use them and use external amplifiers for all your speakers.
I believe the cause of the noise is an internal isolation problem, not to sure if any isolation can be added to the inside of the unit, When the wifi was on i was getting some bad feedback as well, but i was able to tune that out as well.
Guys, I was able to install the HLA today and beside I cant bring it to clip the sound has improved regarding base.
Turned the gain little up and am now satisfied with the result.
I had a hissing noise from the start even with oem radio and this is gone aswell.
All that using the speaker lines towards oem amp.
Octane70 said:
I agree. I was able to tune the the "static noise" out of my system using a 3-way electronic crossover/ line driver buy turning down its gain till the noise went away. Lost a bit of volume, but just had to turn the head unit volume up a bit more to make up for it. Not much you can do with speaker level inputs except not to use them and use external amplifiers for all your speakers.
I believe the cause of the noise is an internal isolation problem, not to sure if any isolation can be added to the inside of the unit, When the wifi was on i was getting some bad feedback as well, but i was able to tune that out as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also believe this is related to the inside of the unit having poor power delivery and bad isolation. Unfortunately the audio is all routed on the main PCB itself so it is not easy to isolate it. I did improve things considerably by soldering directly to the output from the BD37534FV controller and then using this as my RCA output. I did try some further digging but wasn't able to trace the source of the noise back any further.
Next I am going to try adding a capacitor to the power supply, removing the built in TDAXXX amp chip and seeing if I can improve the ground connection on the unit.
Hi.
Finally, I achieved what I wanted more or less, I reduced the number of noises to a minimum, using RCA converters from high to low voltage, adjustable at the expense of the output volume, but I made up for it with the Viper4android module, making listening to music comparable to sitting in a concert hall. Cool effects can be obtained with this module.
That's enough for me, of course, the noise is still present, but it's not as bothersome as before. I do not have the effect anymore that while driving from 100 km / h up, the noise increases and the volume stays constant.
Still, unfortunately, I can not connect anything to the rear USB, because the speakers start to tweet data transmission, similar to the transmission of the modem only faster, I have a USB webcam connected to the front of the radio, unfortunately it is annoying but at least there is no noise.
Of course, to reduce the number of noises in the car completely, I would have to exchange Chinese cheap radio, for which I paid some 300USD for some better, eg from Xtrons radio, they are supposedly better done, but I would have to play with 2DIN frames and it will not be anymore perfectly fit in place of the old radio.
Thanks
DD
This is what I use:
ESX High-To-Low Level Converter ISC4
or
HIFONICS HCV4
I have a passive 3.5mm adapter (one without DAC or amp) and looking for a wired headphone. However, I cannot find detailed audio specs of OnePlus 7 Pro, especially regarding to output impedance (ohms).
VE Monk Plus is what I want to buy but since I don't know how much impedance OnePlus 7 Pro can drive, I wonder if it can drive the headphone well (able to get it loud enough). It needs about 64 ohms to work best.
Anyone has experience with high-ohm headphones? What is the upper limit I should consider an active adapter instead?
How loud they will be, it depends on many factors, not only the output of the phone. I would say, if you want really loud, don't go higher then 32Ohm's. Also, look for headphones which have higher sensitivity "XX dB/mW".
I'm not a loud listener but if a headphone requires me to crank the volume up all the time that would be pretty annoying. VE Monk Plus boasts 64 ohms and 112dB/mW. Do you think it can work well without active DAC or amp?
Thanks