Related
We have so many wonderful roms and cooks in this forum. I would like to start testing with some help from others in this group all the current roms and their respective radios for battery life and performance. Since there are so many roms and many radios, I request the help of other users. Some testing has already been done thanks to Alltheway, and I would like to continue with his great work. I would like to use BattBench .Net for battery testing, and Spb Benchmark for performance testing. The links for each are available here-
BattBench .Net
http://classic.pocketgear.com/download.asp?product_id=14741
Spb Benchmark - free personal use (must submit email for link from Spb)
http://www.spbsoftwarehouse.com/products/benchmark/download.php?en#personal
For testing with .BattBench this guideline should be followed by all who help testing please
Airplane Mode - On(thanks for advice guys)
Bluetooth - Off
Wifi - Off
Exchange or Windows Live Syncing - Off
Brightness - Default Setting
Power - Default Setting
BattBench .Net requires you uncheck the Turn Off Backlight in Start, Settings, Backlight
There will be one test for each set for now with each compatible radio:
I am using a 1600mah battery for testing (I will calculate results for 1350 also)
Each test result will be an average of three tests of 3% battery consumption.
For Testing with Spb Benchmark this guideline should be followed for accurate testing please
All tests performed with default rom settings
Benchmark test using MAIN test group with default test settings(Follow SPB Caution Instructions)
Testing Begins TONIGHT!
You must set the phone to airplane mode to get numbers w/ battbench that will be the same numbers other users will get. W/o setting a standard, all numbers will fluctuate. By setting the phone to airplane mode, this does not disable the radio completely. It just disables reception. By doing so, you make it standardized because some users have 3G, some HSPDA, some Edge and others just standard signal. If you dont standardized the test will be location dependant which will tell noone anything.
Battery Test for Dutty's Official WM6.1 5.2.19199 UC RTM (3-19-08)
Seidio Battery(1600mah) Test with Radio 1.64.08.21:
***CURRENTLY TESTING***
WILL POST RESULTS AS THEY BECOME AVAILABLE
Performance Test for Dutty's Official WM6.1 5.2.19199 UC RTM
Saved for future Spb Benchmark test results
I personally think that changes the variables to ungodly proportions.
Testing variables
Well i guess youre right but it still sucks. So here are my testing variable possibilities:
Flight mode - Always on for radio reception reasons above
Bluetooth - Always off for same reasons as radio
Wifi - Always off for same reasons
What about these?
Beam - ?
Volume - ?
Brightness/Power settings - ?
Am I missing anything else anyone? I want to start first test A.S.A.P
myteematt said:
Well i guess youre right but it still sucks. So here are my testing variable possibilities:
Flight mode - Always on for radio reception reasons above
Bluetooth - Always off for same reasons as radio
Wifi - Always off for same reasons
What about these?
Beam - ?
Volume - ?
Brightness/Power settings - ?
Am I missing anything else anyone? I want to start first test A.S.A.P
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Beam is usually disabled from start, so I usually leave it.
VOlume I leave at the default settings as well.
Brightness/Power, same as above.
Gettin somewhere
Unless stated otherwise I am just going to use the default performance test with Spb Benchmark unless someone states otherwise. Should same standards set as above be used for this performance test also? Also what perecentage tests should be used for .battbench? 100%-75%, 100%-50% 100% - dead battery, any ideas for standardizing?
myteematt said:
Unless stated otherwise I am just going to use the default performance test with Spb Benchmark unless someone states otherwise. Should same standards set as above be used for this performance test also? Also what perecentage tests should be used for .battbench? 100%-75%, 100%-50% 100% - dead battery, any ideas for standardizing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Everything I have stated is purely for battery testing. I also like to use 100%-75%.
I don't know .battbench that well, is 100%-75% enough to determine the whole batteries lifespan to 0 or dead?
myteematt said:
I don't know .battbench that well, is 100%-75% enough to determine the whole batteries lifespan to 0 or dead?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You never want to take these ion batteries to 0%. Its not good for them. This is per GSLEON3.
Anyone feel free to test using GSM(Edge network). I will start another thread for that once results start coming in since I have around 20-30 tests to do on 3G first and Im doing this solo so far so each test takes 5-8 hours depending on results. I think there are other network types for this phone that I don't have access to in North America so thats as far as my testing can go so anyone can participate on that part.
P1Tater said:
You never want to take these ion batteries to 0%. Its not good for them. This is per GSLEON3.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
actually, for the batteries 0 is just as bad as 100.
Optimum range for them is 40-60
Humor
It may be true but its still funny. So its bad to use your battery to its maximum potential meaning all the way, and 40-60% is the best testing range you think? How is the average joe supposed to determine how long his battery is gonna last from full to dead than? Im still a little confused about how testing from 100%-75%, and from 75%-50% is gonna tell me the whole battery life. I guess we will have to pick the one with the highest overall score in each testing class. Any further ideas/suggestions woud be great
myteematt said:
It may be true but its still funny. So its bad to use your battery to its maximum potential meaning all the way, and 40-60% is the best testing range you think? How is the average joe supposed to determine how long his battery is gonna last from full to dead than? Im still a little confused about how testing from 100%-75%, and from 75%-50% is gonna tell me the whole battery life. I guess we will have to pick the one with the highest overall score in each testing class. Any further ideas/suggestions woud be great
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I did my battery life testing, I tested it at the default 3% five times in a row. This way I got the average instead of just performing one test. I felt this would give me better results instead of testing it once at 25%.
Sweet
I was waitin for you to jump in here good to see you. You are the reason I have decided to do this and any further advice is greatly appreciated. I will do the 3% tests as you recommend. Since this will be alot quicker I can do both 3G and GSM testing back to back and get more results that everyone will be happy with
myteematt said:
I was waitin for you to jump in here good to see you. You are the reason I have decided to do this and any further advice is greatly appreciated. I will do the 3% tests as you recommend. Since this will be alot quicker I can do both 3G and GSM testing back to back and get more results that everyone will be happy with
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also agree with P1Tater that you should actually do the testing w/ Flight Mode on. Each radio will respond different to various Wireless carriers around the world. I also think that to do some serious battery testing you would have to flash to the semi-official WM6.1 or WM6 ROM's. This way no bias is going to made on using a custom ROM. I wouldn't change the PagePool or anything to that nature.
Just some ideas that might make the testing better.
So far just from using various ROM's around the forum the ones based on the 5.2.19199 builds have the best battery life hands down.
Testing
Well now that I am taking your average of the 3% test run five times advice it will be alot quicker than before. Now that testing will be shorter I can go through all the compatible radios (7 so far) for the 6.1 series. Im starting with the newest rom obviously dutty's and working my way back to the HTC factory rom within the next few weeks. In regards to the Airplane mode can't I just run one set of tests with for example with only 3G data, and then run a second set for GSM(Edge where I am). I know it won't be as accurate as everyone wants but I am encouraging others around the world to test with me. I would gladly do all the North America testing, and I could get help from the European community to test in their own locations to get better accuracy. To me it means better results for each type of user in their own geographical area. For example I always use 3G while I travel up and down the East Coast of U.S and try to avoid GSM at all cost because of the speeds since I stream A/V alot. If I am still way off course with the whole Airplane Mode thing I apologize, I guess I need another explanation, I'm kinda slow today . I just want the tests to be as accurate as possible given everyones different situations. Thanks in advance for the great advice
signal strength greatly affects battery as does carriers and data coverage. this is why they want airplane mode. Many things can affect signal strength, and thus affect your test.
Airplane mode cuts out all of those variables.
Understood
I guess I finally get the whole airplane mode thing now, thanks. First set of results should be in by breakfast. Ill correct first post now
Seems like every time I flash an AOSP-based ROM, the signal (at least the signal icon) is showing lower than a TW-based ROM. Curious what modem version people like best and if they notice a difference between AOSP and TW ROMs in terms of reception.
So far I've tried the LK3 and MA2 modems. Both seem about the same, in terms of reception.
bradys said:
Seems like every time I flash an AOSP-based ROM, the signal (at least the signal icon) is showing lower than a TW-based ROM. Curious what modem version people like best and if they notice a difference between AOSP and TW ROMs in terms of reception.
So far I've tried the LK3 and MA2 modems. Both seem about the same, in terms of reception.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a slight signal degradation between TW and AOSP based ROMS. It has been mentioned in various places throughout these, and other forums, but as a quick recap:
AOSP & All other non-tw ROMS are forced to use RIL "workarounds" because Samsung owns the rights to that bit of code (more specifically, Qualcomm owns them). Due to this, data on non-tw ROMS has to take an extra step before it gets to you. Some people never notice any difference, others very little - however there are some people (myself included) that notice quite a big difference.
If you're like me, and the thought of going back to TW makes you shudder, you can try some of the other radios/modems and see if you have more luck. So far, the best radio for me (in the Phoenix area) has been VRBLK1 .... I had almost no signal using the OTA or the newest leaked radios.
Good luck!
bradys said:
Seems like every time I flash an AOSP-based ROM, the signal (at least the signal icon) is showing lower than a TW-based ROM. Curious what modem version people like best and if they notice a difference between AOSP and TW ROMs in terms of reception.
So far I've tried the LK3 and MA2 modems. Both seem about the same, in terms of reception.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're not the only one who posted this question on here. You're also like those others are unaware that your location and how well your phone handles cell reception plays a MAJOR role in the signal strength. This phone isn't the best in the signal strength department and improvements are based on your location. My previous phone had 4-5 bars in my apartment in New York compared to 3-4 on the S 3.
theresin said:
There is a slight signal degradation between TW and AOSP based ROMS. It has been mentioned in various places throughout these, and other forums, but as a quick recap:
AOSP & All other non-tw ROMS are forced to use RIL "workarounds" because Samsung owns the rights to that bit of code (more specifically, Qualcomm owns them). Due to this, data on non-tw ROMS has to take an extra step before it gets to you. Some people never notice any difference, others very little - however there are some people (myself included) that notice quite a big difference.
If you're like me, and the thought of going back to TW makes you shudder, you can try some of the other radios/modems and see if you have more luck. So far, the best radio for me (in the Phoenix area) has been VRBLK1 .... I had almost no signal using the OTA or the newest leaked radios.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great info! Thanks for doing that. I'll give VRBLK1 a run.
Anyone have a download link for VRBLK1? Its not on http://rootzwiki.com/topic/34053-modems-vrbma2-verizon-sgs3-sch-i535-recovery-flashable/
Unless I'm missing something... Haha
Sent from GS3 running CM10.1
sadf
Not sure if this will help you out
vickyz.com/vrblk1-update-verizon-galaxy-s3-4-1-1-install-jelly-bean-leaked-firmware/
As always I would back everything up on your phone using Rom Manager or whatever you like, let me know if this helps you or not.
Thanks
Although is says "I535VRLK1"
that is the one you want, I just flashed it and Baseband now says: I535VRBLK1
Just did a little test with the latest 3 modems while using Carbon Rom 1.4 and the 2/5 Anthrax CM Kernel. Results are below. Which is better?
LK1:
On Desk: -111 dbm, 29 asu
Handheld: -109 dbm, 31 asu
LK3:
On Desk: -110 dbm, 30 asu
Handheld: -106 dbm, 34 asu
MA2:
On Desk: -112 dbm, 28 asu
Handheld: -106 dbm, 34 asu
I have heard about more frequent data drops with the MA2 leak, so that concerns me a bit. Tried downloading a TW rom the other day and it kept dropping.
andybones said:
Although is says "I535VRLK1"
that is the one you want, I just flashed it and Baseband now says: I535VRBLK1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, of course! Haha I don't know why I didn't catch that. Thanks!
Sent from GS3 running CM10.1
bradys said:
Just did a little test with the latest 3 modems while using Carbon Rom 1.4 and the 2/5 Anthrax CM Kernel. Results are below. Which is better?
LK1:
On Desk: -111 dbm, 29 asu
Handheld: -109 dbm, 31 asu
LK3:
On Desk: -110 dbm, 30 asu
Handheld: -106 dbm, 34 asu
MA2:
On Desk: -112 dbm, 28 asu
Handheld: -106 dbm, 34 asu
I have heard about more frequent data drops with the MA2 leak, so that concerns me a bit. Tried downloading a TW rom the other day and it kept dropping.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I'm certainly no expert in the field of radio/data signals, but FWIW here is a bit of information that I've gathered over the last couple years while obsessing over my data speeds! Hope it's not too jumbled, It is 3:30am after all!
The simple answer to the question regarding dBm "signal" numbers is this: The closer you are to a dBm of 0, the better your signal will be. For example; A dBm of -50 is BETTER/STRONGER than a dBm of -100. Unless something has gone horribly wrong, you will never see a dBm reading in the positive/above zero range - and if somehow you did, chances are it's the last thing you'd ever read on your phone before it melts/bursts into flames. (aka = impossible scenario). The "asu" reading isn't an important reading for our purposes, so I am going to ignore it.
Anything from -1 to -50 would be considered a great signal to most, from 51-80 would be considered solid, and 81-100+ would be considered poor.
However there are a few things to keep in mind:
1) The most common indicator of radio/signal issues aren't necessarily high dBm values. In a strong LTE market you shouldn't notice too many issues as long as your signal remains consistent. If you are seeing frequent, high-scale jumps in your dBm reading (IE: -51 to -100 to -41 to -78 over the span of 15 seconds) you should be concerned, as this is what will cause you to drop calls and data.
2) The difference between a dBm of -50 and -55 is not just "-5" .... I do not remember (or ever knew?) the math behind the scale, but I do know it's exponential.
3) As I am sure you have figured out, the "signal bars" on our/most devices is full of crap and shouldn't be trusted. I've had blazing download speeds on 1 bar, and I've had trouble loading simple webpages with 5 bars. I used to rely on the signal readings found in the system settings (about phone) but am now very skeptical that they are accurate. I have downloaded apps to see if I can get live readings, and have had the most luck with "Network Signal Pro". It's possible this app is inaccurate as well, but my increases and decreases in dBm (as shown in the app) have coincided with my DL/UL speeds.
For example: My current "bar" level is a 2 out of 5, my dBm (in about phone) is 104, and my dBm per the Network Signal App is 71.
The most important factor to consider is the ridiculous number of variables that can/will/do affect our signal strengths. It has been interesting (almost fun) to log my signal and speeds throughout the Phoenix metro area - and I have definitely noticed BIG differences when it comes to radios! My averages over a one week period (logged by the app I mentioned) were as follows:
VRBMA2: dBm 102 - frequent jumps in dBm and frequent, rage-inducing disconnects (several per hour)
VRBLK3 dBm 91 - less frequent jumps in dBm, almost no data drops
VRBLK1 dBm 71 - most consistent connection, fastest speeds, zero drops so far.
VRALHE dBm 84 - no data drops, but speeds seemed slower.
I hope some of this information helps you out - It was a longer reply than I had intended, but I've been going crazy over this stuff myself so I figured if I could help one person understand his S3's signal quirks, it would all be justified! Good luck finding a radio that works best for you!
Also - If I am wrong on this, or somebody has a better explanation, don't hold back - I feel this is the best way to learn something! (just don't tell my fiance that....)
:good::good:
theresin said:
Well, I'm certainly no expert in the field of radio/data signals, but FWIW here is a bit of information that I've gathered over the last couple years while obsessing over my data speeds! Hope it's not too jumbled, It is 3:30am after all!
The simple answer to the question regarding dBm "signal" numbers is this: The closer you are to a dBm of 0, the better your signal will be. For example; A dBm of -50 is BETTER/STRONGER than a dBm of -100. Unless something has gone horribly wrong, you will never see a dBm reading in the positive/above zero range - and if somehow you did, chances are it's the last thing you'd ever read on your phone before it melts/bursts into flames. (aka = impossible scenario). The "asu" reading isn't an important reading for our purposes, so I am going to ignore it.
Anything from -1 to -50 would be considered a great signal to most, from 51-80 would be considered solid, and 81-100+ would be considered poor.
However there are a few things to keep in mind:
1) The most common indicator of radio/signal issues aren't necessarily high dBm values. In a strong LTE market you shouldn't notice too many issues as long as your signal remains consistent. If you are seeing frequent, high-scale jumps in your dBm reading (IE: -51 to -100 to -41 to -78 over the span of 15 seconds) you should be concerned, as this is what will cause you to drop calls and data.
2) The difference between a dBm of -50 and -55 is not just "-5" .... I do not remember (or ever knew?) the math behind the scale, but I do know it's exponential.
3) As I am sure you have figured out, the "signal bars" on our/most devices is full of crap and shouldn't be trusted. I've had blazing download speeds on 1 bar, and I've had trouble loading simple webpages with 5 bars. I used to rely on the signal readings found in the system settings (about phone) but am now very skeptical that they are accurate. I have downloaded apps to see if I can get live readings, and have had the most luck with "Network Signal Pro". It's possible this app is inaccurate as well, but my increases and decreases in dBm (as shown in the app) have coincided with my DL/UL speeds.
For example: My current "bar" level is a 2 out of 5, my dBm (in about phone) is 104, and my dBm per the Network Signal App is 71.
The most important factor to consider is the ridiculous number of variables that can/will/do affect our signal strengths. It has been interesting (almost fun) to log my signal and speeds throughout the Phoenix metro area - and I have definitely noticed BIG differences when it comes to radios! My averages over a one week period (logged by the app I mentioned) were as follows:
VRBMA2: dBm 102 - frequent jumps in dBm and frequent, rage-inducing disconnects (several per hour)
VRBLK3 dBm 91 - less frequent jumps in dBm, almost no data drops
VRBLK1 dBm 71 - most consistent connection, fastest speeds, zero drops so far.
VRALHE dBm 84 - no data drops, but speeds seemed slower.
I hope some of this information helps you out - It was a longer reply than I had intended, but I've been going crazy over this stuff myself so I figured if I could help one person understand his S3's signal quirks, it would all be justified! Good luck finding a radio that works best for you!
Also - If I am wrong on this, or somebody has a better explanation, don't hold back - I feel this is the best way to learn something! (just don't tell my fiance that....)
:good::good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good explanation couldn't have said it better myself.
theresin said:
Well, I'm certainly no expert in the field of radio/data signals, but FWIW here is a bit of information that I've gathered over the last couple years while obsessing over my data speeds! Hope it's not too jumbled, It is 3:30am after all!
The simple answer to the question regarding dBm "signal" numbers is this: The closer you are to a dBm of 0, the better your signal will be. For example; A dBm of -50 is BETTER/STRONGER than a dBm of -100. Unless something has gone horribly wrong, you will never see a dBm reading in the positive/above zero range - and if somehow you did, chances are it's the last thing you'd ever read on your phone before it melts/bursts into flames. (aka = impossible scenario). The "asu" reading isn't an important reading for our purposes, so I am going to ignore it.
Anything from -1 to -50 would be considered a great signal to most, from 51-80 would be considered solid, and 81-100+ would be considered poor.
However there are a few things to keep in mind:
1) The most common indicator of radio/signal issues aren't necessarily high dBm values. In a strong LTE market you shouldn't notice too many issues as long as your signal remains consistent. If you are seeing frequent, high-scale jumps in your dBm reading (IE: -51 to -100 to -41 to -78 over the span of 15 seconds) you should be concerned, as this is what will cause you to drop calls and data.
2) The difference between a dBm of -50 and -55 is not just "-5" .... I do not remember (or ever knew?) the math behind the scale, but I do know it's exponential.
3) As I am sure you have figured out, the "signal bars" on our/most devices is full of crap and shouldn't be trusted. I've had blazing download speeds on 1 bar, and I've had trouble loading simple webpages with 5 bars. I used to rely on the signal readings found in the system settings (about phone) but am now very skeptical that they are accurate. I have downloaded apps to see if I can get live readings, and have had the most luck with "Network Signal Pro". It's possible this app is inaccurate as well, but my increases and decreases in dBm (as shown in the app) have coincided with my DL/UL speeds.
For example: My current "bar" level is a 2 out of 5, my dBm (in about phone) is 104, and my dBm per the Network Signal App is 71.
The most important factor to consider is the ridiculous number of variables that can/will/do affect our signal strengths. It has been interesting (almost fun) to log my signal and speeds throughout the Phoenix metro area - and I have definitely noticed BIG differences when it comes to radios! My averages over a one week period (logged by the app I mentioned) were as follows:
VRBMA2: dBm 102 - frequent jumps in dBm and frequent, rage-inducing disconnects (several per hour)
VRBLK3 dBm 91 - less frequent jumps in dBm, almost no data drops
VRBLK1 dBm 71 - most consistent connection, fastest speeds, zero drops so far.
VRALHE dBm 84 - no data drops, but speeds seemed slower.
I hope some of this information helps you out - It was a longer reply than I had intended, but I've been going crazy over this stuff myself so I figured if I could help one person understand his S3's signal quirks, it would all be justified! Good luck finding a radio that works best for you!
Also - If I am wrong on this, or somebody has a better explanation, don't hold back - I feel this is the best way to learn something! (just don't tell my fiance that....)
:good::good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow man, great write-up! I'll give LK1 a try for a while and see how it goes. I agree that MA2 had rage-inducing disconnects in terms of using it to download large (a ROM) files.
Should be interesting to see what VZW gives us with the latest official release - MB1.
theresin said:
There is a slight signal degradation between TW and AOSP based ROMS. It has been mentioned in various places throughout these, and other forums, but as a quick recap:
AOSP & All other non-tw ROMS are forced to use RIL "workarounds" because Samsung owns the rights to that bit of code (more specifically, Qualcomm owns them). Due to this, data on non-tw ROMS has to take an extra step before it gets to you. Some people never notice any difference, others very little - however there are some people (myself included) that notice quite a big difference.
If you're like me, and the thought of going back to TW makes you shudder, you can try some of the other radios/modems and see if you have more luck. So far, the best radio for me (in the Phoenix area) has been VRBLK1 .... I had almost no signal using the OTA or the newest leaked radios.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is it about the RIL that makes it something we have to workaround? Is it that its just proprietary so we can't include the code without paying for a license? Or is it that we just don't have the code. If we don't have the code where is it located, wouldn't it be in the TW framework? If that's the case why can't we have a separate flashable zip that's installed afterwards, much like dvd support in Linux? Sorry if these questions have already been answered somewhere else, but the search on my phone isn't very good. I'm just trying to get an understanding why this is a problem.
Thank you
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
Hey guys,
I am currently on Synergy and I'm looking to go to an AOSP ROM. My phone was on 4.0.4 before it was rooted (this was a CLNR device and shipped with the old OS). VRLG7 is what I see under baseband.
My question is, would it be okay to flash a JB baseband on top of my ICS baseband without doing the VZW OTA updates?
Thanks!
kl323 said:
Hey guys,
I am currently on Synergy and I'm looking to go to an AOSP ROM. My phone was on 4.0.4 before it was rooted (this was a CLNR device and shipped with the old OS). VRLG7 is what I see under baseband.
My question is, would it be okay to flash a JB baseband on top of my ICS baseband without doing the VZW OTA updates?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there - sorry it has taken me so long to respond ... I got t-boned by an obscenely drunk woman leaving a Phoenix Coyotes game the other night and have been too busy yelling at various insurance representatives to check XDA
If you're anything like me (impatient as hell) I would imagine you've already found the answer you were looking for, but I'll answer it too:
Yes. I would flash the JB baseband and RPM of your choice and then flash into the ROM of your choice. I'm not sure if the order is important, but I wouldn't recommend booting into a 4.1 - 4.2 AOSP with the old ICS baseband. Come to think of it, I was flashing all sorts of JellyBeans before we ever got the official JB OTA.
Hope you had that figured out before I got to you!
---------- Post added at 05:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:15 AM ----------
ironmanisanemic said:
What is it about the RIL that makes it something we have to workaround? Is it that its just proprietary so we can't include the code without paying for a license? Or is it that we just don't have the code. If we don't have the code where is it located, wouldn't it be in the TW framework? If that's the case why can't we have a separate flashable zip that's installed afterwards, much like dvd support in Linux? Sorry if these questions have already been answered somewhere else, but the search on my phone isn't very good. I'm just trying to get an understanding why this is a problem.
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You hit the nail on the head. From what I've read (been following development on the SGS3 for some time) the RIL code is proprietary to Samsung, but it's trickier than that... I've also heard that Samsung wouldn't mind licensing it out but can't/won't because it was licensed to them by Qualcomm and is considered to be one of their (Qualcomm's) most prized/profitable developments. So, as long as Samsung is using Qualcomm chipsets, I wouldn't expect this to change.
With that being said, CM has come a really, really long way towards making this a moot point. The first CM 10 releases were almost unusable because of the data issues (in my case they were unusable) - now, while I do still notice a slight difference between TW and CM, It isn't enough to consider CM a non-daily driver candidate.
Hope this answered your question!
bradys said:
Wow man, great write-up! I'll give LK1 a try for a while and see how it goes. I agree that MA2 had rage-inducing disconnects in terms of using it to download large (a ROM) files.
Should be interesting to see what VZW gives us with the latest official release - MB1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How are your results so far? I'm rocking the new OTA radio/rpm for the moment - so far so good, but then again ... I"m also running a TW ROM for the first time in a while so we'll see if that changes when I get back over to AOSP!
gonna bump an old one
What of the new bmf1 radio? Good? Bad? Aosp worthy or not? I am a long time lurker. This is my first root and custom ROM experience. I Love Aosp. Personally if I could have the stability I would run PA... but alas a run beanstown as it is TW with Aosp flavor.
Lord_Tardis said:
What of the new bmf1 radio? Good? Bad? Aosp worthy or not? I am a long time lurker. This is my first root and custom ROM experience. I Love Aosp. Personally if I could have the stability I would run PA... but alas a run beanstown as it is TW with Aosp flavor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MF1 is the recommended firmware for the 4.3 cm10.2 builds, so i would say that's the best one. I'm all for using the latest, unless otherwise told.
So does it provide better service on AOSP? Have you noticed a difference? I uped to beans 18 an aside from some subtle changes I dont see much. If anyone noticed a difference between them on Aosp shout out.
Sent from my SCH-I535
For those of you who switched from another smartphone how are the radios from LG.
I currently have an HTC One and it is passable in my workload, but nothing to write home about. I'm looking at phones now to JUMP with and the N5 is what I really really want but the terrible battery and unknown radios worry me a lot.
So how are you finding them? I don't care about speed, I care about the ability to get and hold signal. Compared to your last device is it better or worse.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
altimax98 said:
For those of you who switched from another smartphone how are the radios from LG.
I currently have an HTC One and it is passable in my workload, but nothing to write home about. I'm looking at phones now to JUMP with and the N5 is what I really really want but the terrible battery and unknown radios worry me a lot.
So how are you finding them? I don't care about speed, I care about the ability to get and hold signal. Compared to your last device is it better or worse.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
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first off, your questions dont go into the general section, they go into the q&a section.
now, whatever you read from bloggers is mostly untrue.
the battery life on the nexus 5 is actually very good. i average about 5-6 hours screen on time. also, im with tmobile in nyc, theres absolutely not a single issue with the radios for me. calls sound great, they dont drop. and data speeds are very fast, i average arounf 30mbps download and 20mbps upload speeds.
simms22 said:
first off, your questions dont go into the general section, they go into the q&a section.
now, whatever you read from bloggers is mostly untrue.
the battery life on the nexus 5 is actually very good. i average about 5-6 hours screen on time. also, im with tmobile in nyc, theres absolutely not a single issue with the radios for me. calls sound great, they dont drop. and data speeds are very fast, i average arounf 30mbps download and 20mbps upload speeds.
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I don't go on bloggers, I know what I've gotten with other devices (namely the One) and the average I've seen throughout forums. I don't believe in turning off features I use such as location reporting and such. Most I've seen with same/similar usage as I aren't getting great battery life. Top that with the fact that I work in a Studio in the middle of a building and get minimal signal as it is, I have to assume I will get lower then average battery life.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
Cellular radio is great
WiFI radio is okay not as good as my Galaxy s3 or my iPhone 5C
Hey there everyone,
Apologies in advance if this have been covered someplace, I've been searching forums and came up with nothing.
For some reason I had better reception (more bars) with Oxygen OS than CM 12, but my friend who also has his Oneplus on CM 12 who was sitting right beside me has more bars also. I don't know why that would possibly be... but I'd like the best signal I can get, is it possible to flash a modem in case something went wrong with the update?
I had one bar of LTE in my office, and he had a consistant 2 or 3 bars, same carrier, same phone, both the newest generation of sim cards, and both phone extremely well taken care of.
Any suggestions would be amazing. Thank you in advance!
Forget about the bars, they're unreliable. There's no standard, so you're really just seeing arbitrary measurements that can change from phone to phone, ROM to ROM. The only way to accurately measure your signal strength is by going to Settings/About Phone/Status and you'll see your signal strength there measured in dBm. You must remember though, dBm is measured in negative values, so -115dBm is lower strength than -55dBm.
Transmitted via Bacon
timmaaa said:
Forget about the bars, they're unreliable. There's no standard, so you're really just seeing arbitrary measurements that can change from phone to phone, ROM to ROM. The only way to accurately measure your signal strength is by going to Settings/About Phone/Status and you'll see your signal strength there measured in dBm. You must remember though, dBm is measured in negative values, so -115dBm is lower strength than -55dBm.
Transmitted via Bacon
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So the closer to zero you are, the better reception you get (taking into consideration negative values)?
I have two U11 (I'm going to return one, or both) and I noticed significant differences in terms of battery life between them.
Running PCMark battery life test, auto-brightness OFF, brightness MAX, one phone consistently gets 4h53 of screen on time, and the other one 5h08 (from 100% to 20% battery). That's a 5% difference and it's not negligible. Phones are the same otherwise in terms of apps installed. Problem is, the phone that has the worst battery life starts apps a TINY bit faster...
So the bottom line is, phones have significant manufacturing differences.... and I don't know which one to return.
They have same firmware and all identical? are you sure? maybe some app is configurated different or something.. or one battery its more degraded
5% is close negligible. I've got two U11 and they don't perform any differently. You aren't going to get identical numbers on two different handsets running benchmarks.
Hardware parts may be more or less efficient than each other. Radios on one device may be a few percent better. Honestly just send one back and get it done with. You also forget about coy CPU variances (no two chips are the same).
Different bin could be the reason there is a slight difference.
Ivancp said:
They have same firmware and all identical? are you sure? maybe some app is configurated different or something.. or one battery its more degraded
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Hardware/ firmware / software is identical.
Galactus said:
5% is close negligible. I've got two U11 and they don't perform any differently. You aren't going to get identical numbers on two different handsets running benchmarks.
Hardware parts may be more or less efficient than each other. Radios on one device may be a few percent better. Honestly just send one back and get it done with. You also forget about coy CPU variances (no two chips are the same).
Different bin could be the reason there is a slight difference.
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Well the geekbench and 3D mark are exactly the same (like give or take 0.1%).
ppaasseeii said:
Well the geekbench and 3D mark are exactly the same (like give or take 0.1%).
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Doesn't mean a battery benchmark is going to be within 0.1% the same as when you look at Youtubers who benchmark multiple of the same device and get somewhat different Antutu benchmark results.
5% is nothing to fuss over
Galactus said:
Doesn't mean a battery benchmark is going to be within 0.1% the same as when you look at Youtubers who benchmark multiple of the same device and get somewhat different Antutu benchmark results.
5% is nothing to fuss over
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It's like starting with a battery at 100% vs starting at a battery at 95%. For the rest of the life of the phone. Kind of a big deal.
Anyways, I'm running another test now with a low screen brightness, in case one screen was brighter than the other one (at max brightness) and drained more battery, I'll keep y'all posted.
Try with all radios (wi-fi, gsm, bluetooth, nfc, gps) off, even in location settings (disable scanning nearby devices for improved accuracy), and force stop all installed apps before the test. That gives me about 10 to 15 % increase on AnTuTu score. Maybe log cpu load and speed while testing as well.
I agree 5% is not a big deal, but would definitely keep the longer standing
Edit: force stopping because you may have installed the same apps, but most background processes won't load until you first time run their app, so one of the two "identical" devices may actually be running less apps in background. Best for testing would be to factory reset both devices and not load anything into them nor change any settings except the backlight for test.
How do you use both phones in the same manner to expect same result? You text same person with both phones making sure time taken to perform the task is same for both? And different phones have different usage pattern hence the 5% difference..??
Besides....that's 15mins. I definitely consider that as negligible. A 20% difference would be something to concern yourself about.