[Q] number showing up when camera app is loaded - myTouch 4G General

Is anyone else seeing a number show up when the camera app first opens? the camera says "2685" and the FFC says "19993"
Any idea what they might mean?

i saw that too when i was testing it out. at first i thought it was the number of pictures available to shoot (this makes sense if you look at the FFC having a higher number due to it being VGA)
but im not completely sure. cool feature if its true

Yep, you're right Lockeskidney. It's the number of shots remaining. If you move over to the HD Camcorder, you'll see the number of hours/minutes remaining. Depending on the quality that you choose to shoot photos/record video, the numbers will change.

Related

Camera Result Variation

The Result is highly comparable when adjusting/playing with settings(Contrast,saturation, bright..etc.) of the camera & gives huge difference in the picture.
I've attached samples as examples.
Pic 1 is over Uni's factory settings with DayLight(ON)
Pic 2 is over Uni's adjusted/changed settings with DayLight(ON)
Pic 3 is over Uni's settings as of Pic 2, but with Contrast +3 with DayLight(ON)
I'm still testing on different settings trying to get the best result possible.
I request other users also to TEST & Post their pics according to their settings, & we'll see who HAS THE BEST PIC, in what Setting?
I realize that HTC camera isn't as clever as that of Sony Ericsson or Sharp ones. I choose EXEC because of its WM6.1 superiority. It doesn't mean that EXEC's camera is useless. I took some night photos with it and really like what it produced. The camera is slow so its effect to the traffic lights in the photos(Car's and motrobike's lights) is very amazing.

[Q] Panoramic photo-ICS-Exposure

When I take pictures of a sun scene with my Galaxy Nexus, using the panoramic mode, the light is not uniform so the picture looks horrible (See attached).
Is there an app which uses constant exposure, or something to fix this?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA
...nothing?
Info that might help
Hello! I haven't used the feature but I know from the making a panorama "rules" that you have to keep the same exposure in all 3 pictures that you plan to combine. There is huge difference in the amount of light(with and without sun) in the 3 pictures and on automatic mode the camera is trying to compensate in order to correctly expose the picture. Therefore you have to find the manual setting of the exposure and keep it the same for all 3 or any other number of pictures you take for the panorama.
Might help...let me know
It doesn´t work that way, it´s not a combination of three photos, the phone takes lots of them on a single movement, and then it builds the image. The problem is that the camera regulates the exposure automatically, there´s no manual mode.

[APP] Official LG Stock (& AOSP) Camera Update [DEODEXED][MULTI-VARIANT]

What's New:
"The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them." - xdabbeb
Instructions:
1) Do a backup in recovery, or backup the original files to be overwritten (check ZIP for names).
2) Flash.
AOSP
1) Flash.
NOTE: If these work on your variant and it's not on the list below, let us know so we can add it.
STOCK ROM
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed (Mirror)
AOSP-based ROM (EXPERIMENTAL)
DOWNLOAD - v2
DOWNLOAD - v1
AOSP-based ROM Notes
The low-light FPS increase may not be in effect.
Burst is not working (but is available and may cause issues).
The intelligent auto does not work in low-lighting.
FC occurs when switching to front-camera, or using Panorama settings.
Confirmed Variants for Stock:
F320KE11
VS98011A (VZW)
D802A
D802B
LS980 (Sprint)
D800
Confirmed Variants for AOSP-based:
D802B
D803
D800 (AT&T)
LG Optimus 2x (P990)
Confirmed ROMs for Stock:
Stock rooted on all confirmed variants.
Malladus (VZW)
Grievous (D800)
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.3):
AOSP
HeatshiverSX (AOKP)
OSE (VZW)
Carbon
PACman
PA
Slim ROM
CM10.2
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.4):
PA
Gummy (VZW)
CM11
SlimKat
LucidPhusion
Create a Flashable ZIP Backup
1) If you would like to make a ZIP backup simply download the ZIP file for the update and make a copy.
2) Download a file explorer like ES Explorer or Root Explorer.
3) Open up the update ZIP and look at all the names of the folders, those will be mimicked in your phone's system folder.
4) Check the files within the folders of the update ZIP and note all the names, these will also be mimicked in your phone.
5) Use your file explorer and copy all the mimicked files in your phone to your SD card.
6) Connect your phone to your PC.
7) Move all your files to somewhere easily accessible.
8) Open (do not extract) the update ZIP copy with 7z or WinRAR.
9) Go into each folder (except META-INF) and copy over the files from your phone to the update ZIP copy.
10) Once you are done you now have a flashable ZIP to revert back to your previous state.
Camera NOT Showing in 4.3/4.4 Fix
If the AOSP camera is not appearing in the app drawer, first stop the camera that comes with the ROM, clear that camera's data, and then disable it. Reboot the phone and the AOSP camera should now be present. If it is not, then it is likely disabled. Re-enable it and that should get it to display.
Credits: xdabbeb, sefnap, Jishnu Sur
Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??
Tried this on the Sprint version. Didn't work. First time I installed the apks my phone did a boot loop twice and updated Android. Then I copied all the files into the other locations now my camera FC.
Sent from my LG-LS980 using xda app-developers app
edangel said:
Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java
Thinking about trying this. I'll be smart and nandroid. I'll let you know in about 30 minutes. I'm att
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4
I was in the process of making some flashable additions for "my" ROM so here goes a flashable update and one to revert.
It removes and adds the necessary files.
Here's a flashable restore: http://www.adrive.com/public/bZgr7H/LGCamera_Restore.zip
If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.
This did work for me. I over wrote all the files and changed their permissions then deleted the odex files for the gallery and camera. The video focus is not fixed so not really worth the time IMO but thanks for sharing!!
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4
I'm playing with it and I've noticed no difference. I'm still getting watercolor photos.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
great work!thx
Looks like viewfinder now is less laggy. And at last i got the menu like in all reviews, before i had a strange Verizon moded camera without pics in menu and without Auto Flash in A.I. mode.
Anyway need to test it in low light conditions in the evening.
xdabbeb said:
If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, just wanted to know if you have any comment on this particular post someone made in another thread regarding the camera:
ZigZagJoe said:
TL;DR: Use sports mode. If desperate, try forcing ISO to 800.
Did some more testing of the camera. Sports mode does indeed bias towards faster shutter speeds - usually seems to pick ISO 400 where normal/auto would have used a shutter speed two stops slower and ISO 100. If sports mode is not cutting it, set ISO 800 and hope. If you don't get it at ISO 800, you won't get it with the default camera app. Some third party apps (I tried FV-5) allow you to specify ISO 1600, but image quality will be even worse. Really, just get a real camera out or get into better lighting.
Something else I have to mention is if you are using the modified camera app, if the guy did indeed manage to modify the actual amplification levels, what he did will reduce performance in regards to capturing moving objects as it will force a slower shutter speed - not entirely sure that guy knows what he is monkeying with.
My personal theory on the slow focus in low light is its being caused by the camera dropping below 1/30th of a second shutter speeds in favor of getting a proper exposure to be able focus precisely. If this is the case, forcing it to underexpose to get a smooth preview and faster focus could result in it being unable to focus.
There is a workaround for that, though, and focusing on moving objects: use the manual focus feature LG was so kind to include and set it to infinity focus. As long as you are about 3 feet or more from the object being photographed, everything will be in focus and there will be no shutter lag.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Who is this ZigZagJoe Elite Recognized Dev?? If he thinks I'm a noob, please fix all the problems of the camera. Seems like He made the camera for the LG G2. If you did, man you are a bad engineer! !
Heatshiver said:
and provides a simple method to turn off the camera click sound.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not working in my f320k. Camera ver. 4.3.1
javahuan said:
Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks...deleting the odex files made camera working..
@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
 @KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.
Heatshiver said:
@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
@KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Image quality definitely gets worse as ISO increases - saturation and fine detail take a dive off a cliff, to say nothing of noise. Fine detail loss is then compounded by overzealous noise reduction. Quality loss is more noticeable in these cameras due to the tiny sensor.
Yes, it makes sense that sports mode would increase shutter speed, but without documentation to that effect, who knows what it might do? For all I knew it could just be applying filters and/or changing WB like the other modes seem to do. Not sure what landscape mode does, even. Probably modifies saturation. Exposure settings increasing and decreasing framerate would make sense as it'd be changing exposure by decreasing/increasing shutter speed. Only time you'd have things out of focus is if they are closer than 3 feet, which is the approximate hyperfocal length for these sensor/lens combinations. One of the only blessings of such a small sensor....
Misc data, the phone is able to capture at 1/10000 of a second if conditions permit - ie. taking a picture of a light bulb. Might be able to go a bit faster; some images has the speed recorded as 1/INT_MAX. 1/6s seems to be the minimum shutter speed.
If autofocus was made a bit more "brave", ie. bigger focus steps, it could help, at the expense of focus precision. Could possibly be gotten away with as focus doesn't need to be hyper precise on these things anyways. Trade offs no matter how you go though - you either get slow, but accurate AF, faster but less accurate AF, or fast AF that can't focus (minimum FPS raised). A bandaid fix would be to have the flash LED turn on and be used as an AF-assist lamp for focusing in low light always instead of only when flash is enabled. Of course, wouldn't help when the object isn't in range, but still an improvement.
@ZigZagJoe
Unfortunately, that's not how ISO works. An ISO increase increases noise, it does not desaturate or deteriorate fine detail. Quality is also not saturation. A person who knows about and performs color correction does not saturate a photo as it will hinder quality in post. That isn't to say that is what quality is. If saturation is how you like your pictures, that's fine, but that lends to a personal definition (albeit common) of quality, not a technical definition of quality. I would imagine it is pretty hard to determine detail loss if noise is covering it up to begin with? It would have to be drastically different for that to be apparent. Maybe you are mistaking compression artifacts for noise? Quality is about bitrates, the higher the bitrate the less compression artifacts, which means the better the detail. In either case, the ISO is not making it worse. So it is either bitrate variation you are talking about, or the post-processing system of the camera. The sensor is tiny, but that doesn't mean much other than more ISO noise than a larger sensor. If it did, then a 5DMKII would look leaps and bounds better than a 7D, but it doesn't. It is a matter of hardware. I can name two phones from last year with near-identical sized sensors, but their quality is vastly different.
I am not going to go over the modes as they do have purposes, but they will take a long time to explain. If you have used any basic cameras of the last decade you should know what they do. Manufacturers rarely deviate from these modes other than by name. Besides, the best photographers use the manual mode.
Exposure value would not just affect shutter speeds but ISO settings as well (as evident through simple testing). It should also affect aperture, but cameras on phones have a fixed aperture. However, while shutter speeds are initially changed on this phone, they stay constant. ISO then varies depending on the lighting situation. I took 4 videos of 2 locations, all at 30fps, two at +2 EV, and two at -2 EV, and each set in a light and near-black (dark) area. The results were that the light +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of compression artifacts from a bitrate of 13+MB/s. The dark +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of noise. The light -2 changed to 24fps and showed much less compression artifacts at a bitrate of 17+MB/s. The dark -2 showed almost nothing at all, but the tiny emitting lights that were shown were smooth. These were all done with this mod and no focus issues were present.
I think the true issue with auto-focus primarily stems from IOS. This is the first 13MP to have it, so it's bound to have some kinks (hence the need for an update).
The more important issue is that people all want to complain about a camera phone. And when someone like @Jishnu Sur wants to help out, people insert the comments with false or half-truth information that others take as fact. Some could argue that there is no harm if just speculating, but smarter people know better. The bottom line is that the camera is great as it is. If you want a better AF, get a real camera. But those who get a real camera, and know how to use them, already know that manual focus is the way to go.
I hope this helps clear some things up, but any further comments should be left to PM or back on the thread where this actually started as I want this to be for the updated camera. Continuing this discussion is in part the fault of @KassaNovaKaine for bringing this up instead of just using a PM, and mine for wanting to correct it.
Been testing this update, and it is a vast improvement!
I had a chance so sift through the updated libs, etc., and have made a flashable zip with all the updated files.
This probably should have its own thread, but it doesn't make sense to create more clutter. @Heatshiver, if you don't mind, could you please update the title stating that this is the F320K11E Stock Camera + libs and remove the original download (as it was incomplete) to avoid any confusion. Actually, it would probably be a good idea to quote all of this as well so people don't have to read/search through the whole thread. I don't mind that you started it, as long as you field all the support questions
I have tested this on my VS98011A and it is a marked improvement over the original. All of my comments are in relation to that version of the software/camera.
What's new:
The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them.
Instructions:
1) Do a nandroid, or see which files are being updated and manually back them up.
2) See #1. If you mess something up you'll wish you had.
3) Flash away. I tested this with TWRP on a VS98011A and it works perfectly.
4) If you have another variant, let us know here whether or not it works.
F320K11E Camera Update
*I will also send the files along to Jishnu separately for inclusion/analysis in his mod.
So, loss of detail. For an example, have a look at this comparison. Less severe in larger sensors (IE. DSLRs) and more severe in smaller sensors, you know, what phones use. To what degree detail is lost depends on the severity of processing. Noise obscuring detail = detail loss. NR processing smoothing the image = more detail loss. Safe to say, higher ISO, more detail lost.
Saturation - essentially, color purity. I'm not referring to manipulation of saturation. A washed out image lacks saturation. Yes, it is moronic to equate saturation = quality. But, my personal preference doesn't enter into this at all. Is color information lost in an ISO 3200 image when compared an ISO 100 image? Yes. To what degree depends on the sensor and processing performed. Most dedicated cameras keep it fairly well in check, but phones tend to have serious issues with saturation at higher ISOs (also, Foveon sensors).
It does depend on the sensor pedigree, though - for instance, nikon's midrange APS-C sensors handle their noise a lot better than canon's 18mp-based offerings. So for phones to have different image quality is not unexpected.
Uh, JPG artifacting is way different than noise, and we were not even talking about compression in the first place?
Modes - don't care what the other ones are for, I was simply mentioning their presence. Don't ever use them on my real camera, but don't exactly have a choice in regards to phone. I was unable to get any sort of significant difference out of sports mode when I first tried it.... rest of the modes seem to be purely post processing related, for all I know LG made sports mode the same way. Later, checking EXIF info, I did see it changing shutter speed and ISO, favoring faster shutter speeds, which is the expected behavior, it's just not got much leeway for adjustment.
If ISO isn't already maxed (you know, like it is in low-light situations), yes, exposure control could be adjusting ISO too. But in the context of preview in low light, the exposure control directly affects the preview FPS, so it can only be adjusting shutter speed as ISO is already maxed. Would expect a similar effect on video but haven't tested it. Autofocus speed is directly linked to preview FPS, which is in turn limited by shutter speed (currently).

[APP][2.2.3+/3.2+/4.0+] Smart Selfie - Facial Recognition Voice Guidance

Smart selfie is a FREE voice-guided photography app that use facial recognition to help you take better selfies with the back camera of your phone by giving voice prompts on how to adjust the phone, such as moving it left, right, away, up, etc so that photo participants are well centered in your photos.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Latest Version is now 1.14. Some pretty exciting features added to make the app easier to use.
1.1.4
*Measure beta (Now gives the size of the movement for up, down, left, right.) *Measure beta now supports Eyeliner mode.
*New Camera settings added - Picture Quality and Picture Size.
*Crash fixes and optimization when taking photos.
*Moved to a new UI. Presets, Detection settings and Camera settings have been moved into the Action Bar and appear as icons.
*Minor bug fixes.
*Redid some voice guidance recordings.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
///////////////////////////////////
Normally, to use the better quality and higher resolution camera on the back of your phone to take selfies requires a lot guesswork as you cannot see front screen of your camera
You also need to clumsily click the screen to take the actual photo.
Smart selfie can identify one or multiple faces, then direct the user to move the phone position so that is is in the optimal position. It will then automatically take the photo once your camera is in position.
Another great advantage is not all android smart phones have a front camera so this app would be perfect for owners of such phones to take selfies.
Current selfie apps in the android market simply switch to the lower quality front camera as a default or they might have features that will take photos when your whistle or provide voice commands. This is a rather cumbersome way to take selfies. Some may have a library of cool photos filters and effects, but these do not actually assist in taking the actual photos.
At the time of writing ICS (4.0) is required for full functionality. With 4.0 you can automatically take photos and share them online via social networking sites or pass the photo to other apps for further enhancements.
The core functions will run at 3.2 or higher. The app will lack the ability to share photos if your OS is less than 4.0
For those running and OS between 2.2 and 3.1. You will get the full facial detection and voice guidance feature, however the photo must be taken manually once the camera is in position. (This may be changed in the future.)
Limitations of this version:
*5MP max image taken on back Camera (if your phone is capable of higher resolutions photos will be taken at 5MP)
*Detect Up to 4 people.
Requirements
Min Requirements CPU: 800mhz OS: 2.3+
Recommended Requirements CPU:Quad Core 1Ghz+ OS: 4.0+
Other Requirements: You device needs to have a back camera!!!!!!
///////////////////////////////////////////////
That aside at the moment the UI is a train-wreck, the core functionality seems to work well. Feel free to download the app, take a few selfies and provide feedback to see how it works on different devices.
In additional i would like you know how you feel about:
1) The voice guidance quality? This was taken from several recordings done on an android phone in relatively noisy conditions, I had all sort of background noises like light aeroplanes, garbage trucks, bird tweeting, clothes dryer, strong wind, traffic, and some paper rustling.
2) Do you think it app takes too long to take a selfie?
3) The limitations are they ok? This app allows better quality selfies even on new devices like Samsung galaxy 5, which sports a 2MP front camera.
4) Any other feedback/comments/tips?
Smart selfie Free is available on the google play store the package is
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.aidedesk.smartselfie
Happy Snapping !!!!
@hotspot_volcano link?
Sent from Galaxy Note 3 SM-N9005 Stock: 4.4.2 Rooted
the settings should stay between taking multiple pictures & there should be some notification once the picture got taken/
Wait a min
Do you mean a front camera or what? (actually a back camera?)
Sorry but i didnt get the concept...
starcallr said:
the settings should stay between taking multiple pictures & there should be some notification once the picture got taken/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
It did say "say cheese" and I got a picture, but no click, no "how lovely!" or other indication.
This thing is really ingenious, quite nifty, and did work even on my 600mhz single-core-clunker. Voice instructions were on the quiet side (could explain why some users missed them).
The UI could be more modern, but so simple and adequate as-is. But do make it persistent. And the option, at least, to automatically find the up-to four faces without need to ask, might be nice as well.
Selfies with only a rear camera? Got it :good:
You got a very interesting app. But it needs some pruning though. Can you put it in video mode, and user just angles the phone for a selfie, and your app takes a snap automatically when the faces are focussed. Since its a selfie, you know that the face has to be like 30% to 70% of screen area. User opens app, points the back camera at themselves, and tilts the phone in a few angles. You select the best shot automatically. Its just an idea. You would know better
additional suggestions,
apart from wat these people are saying as a suggestions, i have some of my own. but i tried this app and i find this great..only 2 aditional things:
voice guidance should be louder..and (if possible), have proper diction. i have trouble recognizing the voice guide on my phone because volume is a bit low. i tried to use an earphone while testing to take a selfie..and i had trouble when the command says "left" because the female voice's diction sounds like "lift". atleast put an option to adjust voice guide volume..or let it be controllable with volume buttons (you know which of the 2 is the best).
This app does ake decent shots after guiding you. But, please add adequate lighting sensor, or at least the ability for the voice guide to tell you to turn on flash if the lighting condition is low..something like that. i hope you get the idea.
that's all..this is an innovtive app..but as always, there's always room for improvement.
Awesome App
This app is awesome. It even works on 600 MHz phone. And selfies are great. But there should be a click sound to notify user that the picture has been taken. and moreover there should be option to delete the pic directly. Good job @hotspot_volcano :good:
Hope to see changes in next version.
Kill it! Kill it with fire!
Thanks for the feedback from starcallr and Dovidhalevi. I've implemented some of them.
Just released v1.08 after having a lot of fun getting Android v23 installed, took several hours installing and uninstalling after that to get things to compile once i figured out the missing files.
Anyway from the feedback I've made some changes.
*New detection feature: Added Face Zoom (Allows close-up, or further-away selfies.)
*Ability to change volume more easily.
*All settings remembered from previous session.
*Popup reminder showing settings shown at the start of each photo session.
*More audible photo capture sound. (The click is 10X louder now.) But I might replace the audio click with some voice prompt so it would be 3X louder still without sounding out-of place.
#to do list (over the next week)
*Unified settings. All settings appear together in one Alert Dialog. (15% done) Attached a quick layout.. tell me what you think.
*Flash available for low lighting (as for detection it may need a low light facial detection feature which may i may only put in the paid version)
*A delete feature to delete the just taken photo.
*Auto-detect orientation (25% done)
*Fix up app crash after you have successfully taken a photo on your default camera app when you try and return to Smart Selfie on Android OS 2.2 - 3.1
#planned tidbits (over then next year)
*5 or so detection features(paid version probably), most of these will need OpenCV. (The very first version of this app was in OpenCV + NDK)
*Augment Reality features, maybe hats, sunglasses, hair and stuff that would be visible on the screen and automatically placed on detected faces, and would appear in the final photo when taken
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I have tested earlier versions in public places it and the audio is already boosted up ~15db on average. I did have a silly idea of a vibrate morse code which could be used in extremely noisy places. Something like a short + short vibrate for left, short + long vibrate for right. The vibrate wont affect detection as won't be detecting when the vibrations are occurring. But not going to give it a go for now. Flashlight style Flash to give directions might also work, if it doesn't give people epilepsy.
Use of a Bluetooth headset might also be possible for very noisy places.
The UI is old fashion, i've been away from Android a while so Holo Light is giving me serious grief. Thinking about using Action Bar to replace the missing menu and avoid the LGPLv3 HoloEverywhere library. When i do set minimum APK.. the layouts go half sized. Anyway I'd like to concentrate on features at this stage.
There are apps like mine on Windows phone and IOS and I'd like to be the most comprehensive selfie app out there.
As for not requiring to input the right amount of people at the start. The app at the moment will center the detected faces the ask the user to move the camera away to a certain point in hope that the missing people will appear in the screen eventually? If they don't then you get stuck in a loop. But i will consider an auto (at your own risk setting)
WAY better than the previous version/
Amazing App!!
Amazing app!! Lovin it so much!! but ui need to be updated.. Other than that it's a great app for selfie!!!! Really a great job!! @hotspot_volcano
chitrank said:
Amazing app!! Lovin it so much!! but ui need to be updated.. Other than that it's a great app for selfie!!!! Really a great job!! @hotspot_volcano
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks guys the next version is going to be much better. I'm actually quite excited about the next version.
Having spent more time thinking about what to put in the next version, it will have:
*Beginners/Casual Mode (Balance Sensitivity). If you don't mind your face not being perfectly centered in the photo.You can take photos quickly with little hassle. Detected faces will always appear within the photo with no parts cropped off at the side or top of the photo no matter what setting sensitivity is selected.
You can crank it up or down depending on your selfie taking skills and you/your groups patience in taking the perfect selfie.
*A slight change to the voice guidance algorithm. Hopefully this will stop the left right loop if you start with the phone too close to your face. For best results at the moment always start with the phone about 1/2 meter from your face.
*Fix any settings that don't appear to be saved properly. (I'm getting some issues with Preview Size changes sometimes not saving as expected?)
*Delete photo feature option. (Complete, but just don't ask when Windows 7 RTPing you see the deleted ghost files on 4.4 builds?)
*Unified settings. (getting there)
*Increased volume? Most recordings was set to 90% loudness. I'll experimental with increasing them to 100%. Anyway for noisy places I highly recommended using a portable Bluetooth speaker ones that are small enough to be slipped into your pocket.
My flagship test device is the Moto G which is one of the loudest android phones in the market. With speakers pumping out ~87 dB. Most of the commands was fairly audible even in packed and noisy food-court using the default speakers found on back of the phone.
Thanks for the great feedback guys.. Made a few changes in the most recent update. Plus a few more sites decided to showcase my app taking my app over 1000 downloads, and getting myself a small amount of people to test my app to make sure it works and all.
I'm planning a media launch soon as the app is nearly getting there. Have to rewrite my promotional material which was based on the very first version.
The paid version is no where is sight. The free version features that need to be sorted and taking up a lot of time.
The next update is going to be fairly exciting. These are the planned changes.
*An amazing useability feature that makes taking selfies even easier. It will be available on the free version because it would be probably make the free version cripple-wear if i just added it to the paid version. :angel:
*Auto-detect orientation (Yes this got pushed back.. working on it)
*Flash available for low lighting (Yes this got pushed back.. working on it)
*Attempt to fix submitted bug reports.
*UI (Holo light UI - no guarantees which means probably not :silly
*Continue to update the website so people can just use google translate to read the HELP and TUTORIAL notes in their preferred language.
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binu.udaya;54334510. Can you put it in video mode said:
I'm not too familiar with the hardware side of android as far as video mode is concerned, but i was always under the impression you would get lower resolutions under video mode. Moving the camera while taking a photo will cause motion blur.
Well there are already apps out there that do this.I though they just took 3 shots in quick succession. I could probably add such a feature, but i think the photo is pretty accurate. Especially on the higher settings of Face Balance.
Just to give you idea how accurate the balance is. Just say are taking a portrait photo. Your 4.5" screen displays has a preview image that is 5cm across on the screen. If the gap between the face and the left-side of the picture is 1.5cm then the right-hand side gap between the face and the right-side of the picture can not have a difference more than 0.225cm.
I don't know how many people can get a selfie balanced to 1/4 of a cm by looking at their screen. I'm more surprised if they can get that accuracy without looking it and not get any voice guidance.
FYI the v1.08 fixed settings would have required a difference less than 0.3cm based on the above criteria. So if you managed to get a few snaps off at on the v1.08 thats how well balanced your photos are.
That is why i added the Balance sensitivity, the crazy accuracy is not required in all situations. Takes a few dozen shots before you built up the experience to take photos at that level.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1.1.3 is an amazing new update!!!!!! Manage to squeeze in a bunch of features.
Finally manage to roll out the amazing useability feature Measure. Which provides a size of the movement in addition to the direction. Unfortunately i didn't really have to the time to extend the feature to up and down.
*Presets now available. Pick and choose different presets such as using a selfie stick; propping your camera against say a book then you walk away, photos are taken automatically when your in position; taking photos from different angles such as the Baby face selfie where the camera angle gives the illusion of bigger eyes.
*Eyeliner. Allows the vertical alignment of eyes in your photo. Gives a much larger variety of selfies you can take now.
*Voice Guidance speed is now adjustable. Set it faster if your more experience in using the app or lower if your new or English is not your first language.
*Website updated. All help information is available online and translatable into your preferred language. Link added to Playstore and accessible in app.
Whats in the next version?
*Crash bug fixed hopefully. Be focusing on why there are crashes when photos are taken. Made several changes already.
*Continue to work on Measure (UP,DOWN).. will also look at Measure( closer and away)
*Pickable Photo capture resolution.
*Pickable white Balance Mode (Maybe)
*Holo Light GUI (I'll take a look.. lol)
If you haven't already please try out Smart Selfie v1.1.3 and tell me what you think now?
v 1.14 took a bit longer than my general 7 day for an update but its finally here. Holo-Layout. Some people have been asking for it since v1.03
Forcing low resolution setting on high resolution devices was a MAJOR HEADACHE. Its still has a minor bug with half-sized screen randomly appearing but that's been around since v1.03. While i just moved to Holo layout, I don't want to know anything about Android L.
Lets take a look at our planned updates for v1.1.4 and what was done.
*Continue to work on Measure (UP,DOWN).. Measure Closer and Away (No plans for now)
*Pickable Photo capture resolution.
*Holo Light GUI (I'll take a look.. lol) - Seems Action tool bar works well for all versions of supported android.
*Crash bug fixed hopefully. Be focusing on why there are crashes when photos are taken. Made several changes already. Unfortunately once i started the UI I stopped working on crash fixes so more to come.
v 1.1.5 planned features
*Pickable white Balance Mode (soon i hope)
*A Custom Share Intent. Will be better than the stock one which may have problems with setting a default ShareIntent.
*Revisit and review code that may cause crashing when taking photos.
*In-app volume that does not change your current volume setting (ie not get blasted by the noise from other apps you run after smart selfie)
*General house-tidying of text strings in the app. One step towards the NOT planned in-app multi-language support.
*Creation of shared libraries. So that the paid version can re-branched.
*Small fixes to the UI where deemed necessary.
*Some sort of auto-orientation feature.
EDIT: Managed to get my hands on a LG P500 512 MB RAM, 3.2MP, 600mhz. Updated the rom to 4.04 onto it. Manage to take a photo without crashing though it took a while to show the photo.
The background wallpaper kind of leaks through into the app but i think its just the Rom.
If anyone have a device with 256mb ram try testing it and see if it causes any crashing (due to the lack of memory)

How do I take non focused pictures?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EKvnpp9ohD4zT45DA
I have a problem with both stock cam and Gcam, both pictures in the link are taken extremely close to the "first obstacle", a flower in one and plants in the other. In the flowers picture everything else gets blurred, in the plants picture where there is no clear focus object everything looks crispy.
I have noticed this with a lot of my photos, if there is something stealing the attention the camera blurs everything else too much, I want everything in my pictures to always be crispy ... how do I do that?
I just always use normal mode without touching anything else, don´t know much about photography, I just want the blurriness gone.
@AurioDK just use tap to focus, when you are taking a photo, tap the part of the screen you want to focus. Works for the front camera too if you take some pics there
manor7777 said:
@AurioDK just use tap to focus, when you are taking a photo, tap the part of the screen you want to focus. Works for the front camera too if you take some pics there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance? The funny thing is that I don´t have this problem with indoor pictures, only outdoors.
AurioDK said:
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use Pro mode (swipe up at bottom of camera app). It will take longer to get a shot, but if you were using a dslr I would expect the same. Its the 3rd option in pro mode, a focus wheel with very nice haptic feedback.
AurioDK said:
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance? The funny thing is that I don´t have this problem with indoor pictures, only outdoors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You've got the terms reversed somewhat. What you want is everything in focus, not 'non focused'. If something is not in focus, it is blurry. You seem to be replacing the word "focus" with "crispy" which is just making up words and confusing the issue. I read the thread title to mean you want everything in the photo to be blurry (which is what it is saying in reality) which would just make it look like the camera is broken!
If your distance to the subject is very small, and the background is very far, you aren't going to be able to get both in focus. It's just the physics of how lenses/cameras work. If you change the focus point to a distant object, the subject (near object) will be blurry. You can't focus on both, if they are too far apart.
The reason you don't see this problem indoors, is due to the fact that the background is much closer. It's the distance between the subject and the background (particular outdoors, where the background tends to be much farther away) that is causing the background to blur. Find an indoor setting, with the same distance (between subject and background) and I guarantee that you will have the same result (blurry background).
The closer the objects in the photo are to each other (distance to the camera) the easier it is to get them both in focus. You can decrease the background blur, by increasing your distance to the subject (near object) but you may lose the intended composition. Using the "Pro" mode as another suggested, is also a good idea. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) and minimal optical zoom. Since both aperture and focal length (optical zoom) both affect the depth of field (which in turn determines how blurry the background will be). In fact, I can see from the photo metadata in your gallery, that the photos are taken at f/1.65, which is a very large aperture, and maximizes background blur. Force the f-stop to a larger value in "Pro" mode, and you will likely see the background blur decrease. Although distance to subject, and distance of the background are still major factors.
Also keeping in mind that changing the f-stop will also affect the shutter speed and ISO. They are all inter-dependent, and known as the "exposure triangle". So you may need to manipulate the ISO or shutter speed to achieve the desired results.
Note: Made some major edits to the post. I noticed the pics in the gallery are taken at f/1.65 (presumably on automatic settings), which may be a major factor in the background blur. Somewhat changed some of my thinking on how to get the results that are desired by the user.
AurioDK said:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EKvnpp9ohD4zT45DA
I just always use normal mode without touching anything else, don´t know much about photography, I just want the blurriness gone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I little reading on how depth of field works may answer your question and also help you take the pictures with desired results. There is an easy read at:
https://digital-photography-school.com/understanding-depth-field-beginners/
redpoint73 said:
You've got the terms reversed somewhat. What you want is everything in focus, not 'non focused'. If something is not in focus, it is blurry. You seem to be replacing the word "focus" with "crispy" which is just making up words and confusing the issue. I read the thread title to mean you want everything in the photo to be blurry (which is what it is saying in reality) which would just make it look like the camera is broken!
If your distance to the subject is very small, and the background is very far, you aren't going to be able to get both in focus. It's just the physics of how lenses/cameras work. If you change the focus point to a distant object, the subject (near object) will be blurry. You can't focus on both, if they are too far apart.
The reason you don't see this problem indoors, is due to the fact that the background is much closer. It's the distance between the subject and the background (particular outdoors, where the background tends to be much farther away) that is causing the background to blur. Find an indoor setting, with the same distance (between subject and background) and I guarantee that you will have the same result (blurry background).
The closer the objects in the photo are to each other (distance to the camera) the easier it is to get them both in focus. You can decrease the background blur, by increasing your distance to the subject (near object) but you may lose the intended composition. Using the "Pro" mode as another suggested, is also a good idea. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) and minimal optical zoom. Since both aperture and focal length (optical zoom) both affect the depth of field (which in turn determines how blurry the background will be). In fact, I can see from the photo metadata in your gallery, that the photos are taken at f/1.65, which is a very large aperture, and maximizes background blur. Force the f-stop to a larger value in "Pro" mode, and you will likely see the background blur decrease. Although distance to subject, and distance of the background are still major factors.
Also keeping in mind that changing the f-stop will also affect the shutter speed and ISO. They are all inter-dependent, and known as the "exposure triangle". So you may need to manipulate the ISO or shutter speed to achieve the desired results.
Note: Made some major edits to the post. I noticed the pics in the gallery are taken at f/1.65 (presumably on automatic settings), which may be a major factor in the background blur. Somewhat changed some of my thinking on how to get the results that are desired by the user.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found out how, your post gave me the answer. It´s as you said, I need to keep a certain distance to the closest object and the margin between an "all focus" and "object focus only" picture is very small. I played a bit with a coke bottle on a lawn to get a feeling and I think I now have it. I finally managed to get the pictures I wanted, it´s just a matter of keeping the closest object a bit further away. Thank you.

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