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I just got a nexus one dock delivered this morning... but nothing happens when I put my phone in.
I had the desire rom so I flashed cynogen and tried and still nothing.
I am guessing its faulty but there isn't anyway for me to actually be sure is there?
I guess I will just have to contact HTC support and get it replaced!
Spinstorm said:
I just got a nexus one dock delivered this morning... but nothing happens when I put my phone in.
I had the desire rom so I flashed cynogen and tried and still nothing.
I am guessing its faulty but there isn't anyway for me to actually be sure is there?
I guess I will just have to contact HTC support and get it replaced!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When your drop it into the dock, does it show charging? You could just have a set of dirty contacts - a quick swipe with a pencil eraser is an easy way to make sure they're clean.
Are you running a N1 ROM now (Stock, Cyan, Enmother, MCR)? If so, dock it and head to settings and there should be a "dock" option there now once you've docked.
Thanks for telling me to try that.
I can't figure out what the problem is. I did get it to work by pushing the USB wire into the dock and plug connector.
That makes me think that the USB wire is damaged but it seems to not require any pressure to work fine on my HD2 (as its the same connector) so I am a bit stumped by this!
Spinstorm said:
Thanks for telling me to try that.
I can't figure out what the problem is. I did get it to work by pushing the USB wire into the dock and plug connector.
That makes me think that the USB wire is damaged but it seems to not require any pressure to work fine on my HD2 (as its the same connector) so I am a bit stumped by this!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you using the wall charger or USB charger? If it's the USB charger give it a shot with the wall charger. They say don't use the USB charger and the only reason I can think of is that the USB charger only provides .5A and that may not be enough to power the dock and charge at an acceptable voltage.
I am using the wall charger now but I am UK based so I am not using the suplied charger - rather my HD2 wall adapator and USB cable although that shouldn't effect how it works clearly.
I do wonder if the invisible shield may be causing part of the problem.
It doesn't "slide" into the dock I have to push it even though the bottom part of the phone has no protector (as I removed the shield from there) it does seem to be super temperamental to the EXACT angle and position I have it in the dock...
Spinstorm said:
I am using the wall charger now but I am UK based so I am not using the suplied charger - rather my HD2 wall adapator and USB cable although that shouldn't effect how it works clearly.
I do wonder if the invisible shield may be causing part of the problem.
It doesn't "slide" into the dock I have to push it even though the bottom part of the phone has no protector (as I removed the shield from there) it does seem to be super temperamental to the EXACT angle and position I have it in the dock...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as it's pushing 1V I don't see why there'd be any problem if it's not the "supplied" charger.
Can you tell if the phone is making good contact on the bottom? You should be able to see the pins actually depress and "disappear" as the phone pushes them down into the dock.
which dock have you got
I'd have thought the problem would be the skin blocking the three contacts ( is it a genuine dock?
Jamie
with the invisible skin I need to push the phone in a little as well. The skin makes the phone not fit as well so that may be your issue, not the dock.
jsapp said:
with the invisible skin I need to push the phone in a little as well. The skin makes the phone not fit as well so that may be your issue, not the dock.
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Click to collapse
^^^^This^^^^
I removed the protector totally and it still requires pushing into the dock and then it seems to randomly disconnect the charging for no reason after a couple of seconds.
It must be that the dock is faulty (of course it could be my phone but I can't test that out so I will assume it is the dock).
I e-mailed HTC who said if I phone them they will sort out a replacement.
They seem quite efficient so far although I haven't phoned them yet!
I have to be honest I am not impressed with the dock... sure it looks nice and the bluetooth streaming is cool but even if mine worked perfectly and charged the phone - the phone slips out if I touch it anywhere - it must be the most unsafe dock ever. Forget using the phone in the dock. It won't stay in it if you press it....
The other day I dropped my NS from about 2 feet while it was charging. Unfortunately the fall did more than scare me, and now my usb port is a bit screwed. To make the device recognise the connection (either charging or data) I have to push on the usb cable close to where it enters the phone. To be specific, an upwards force is required if the phone is lying on its back. To charge it I rest the cable on a book and put some weight on the screen to apply the required force.. It's definitely not ideal.
Does anyone have any ideas for me to try to fix it?
Sent from my Nexus S using XDA App
You would have to order the charging port and take apart the phone to install it.
http://www.globaldirectparts.com/Googel-Nexus-S-Charging-Port-p/smsng6098560.htm
You should be able to find a video that details the dissasembly. Good luck!
On my quest to make an adapter to use my Atrix Lapdock with my S4 I already destroyed an mhl adapter, and now I want to try this dock from ebay.
Has anyone had any experience with it?
Let me know, looks nice.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using xda app-developers app
Be careful. I bought one of these on Amazon a while back...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4CVT7A/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
...and I realize it might not be the same exact thing, but it looks similar in construction.
About 2 weeks after I started using it, it started shorting out and sparking! I was lucky that I was right beside it when it started happening and got my phone out of it before any damage was done. The problem was with the wiring / circuitry in the base of the unit. I threw it away immediately.
So, hopefully your will work a lot better, just be careful.
scott14719 said:
Be careful. I bought one of these on Amazon a while back...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4CVT7A/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
...and I realize it might not be the same exact thing, but it looks similar in construction.
About 2 weeks after I started using it, it started shorting out and sparking! I was lucky that I was right beside it when it started happening and got my phone out of it before any damage was done. The problem was with the wiring / circuitry in the base of the unit. I threw it away immediately.
So, hopefully your will work a lot better, just be careful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info. I usually buy stuff from DX, so I'm quite used to opening and doing a good quality check for every item I buy before using it!
I got the item, it works good and the build quality is good.
BUT, when you connect an external power supply, the power to the usb host port gets disconnected and the usb lines get shorted. So you can use either the USB OR the HDMI. There are 3 relays inside the device; by disabling the top one you can do the 500ms short trick and get the HDMI + USB HOST + CHARGING features, but it takes some effort.
gip_mad said:
I got the item, it works good and the build quality is good.
BUT, when you connect an external power supply, the power to the usb host port gets disconnected and the usb lines get shorted. So you can use either the USB OR the HDMI. There are 3 relays inside the device; by disabling the top one you can do the 500ms short trick and get the HDMI + USB HOST + CHARGING features, but it takes some effort.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you able to use or make a charge only cable (only 5V and ground)? That way the USB data lines should not be affected if the charger shorts the data pins.
Or is the one of the relays shorting the data pins inside the adapter?
Sorry, maybe I didn't explain correctly. The adapter shorts the phone's usb data pins, everything else is untouched. A delay circuit is implemented too, so it looks like they tried to do the 500ms trick but failed miserably so they sold the dock as is.
has anyone got any further with this project? I have an original Samsung smart dock and have now got the hdmi converters but nothing is shown on the lapdock screen. The adaptors and lapdock work fine as I have had it connected to my sky hd box?
Hi, did you try the adapters with a TV? My adapters work well and send a (distorted) image to the lapdock..
Yes I tried them both ways as an output to a tv and also an input to a moniter
looks pretty interesting. huh
My HTC Sensation, has stopped charging altogether. I took it off charging and when i put it on 10 min later, the LED didnt light up, so i got a toothpick and tried cleaning thecharging port just in case something tiny went in and was blocking it to charge, but that didnt work. The phone was working fine until the battery died and i still cant get it to charge. Now im wondering whats broken, to all those repair specialists out there, what could be broken? I can buy a charging port from ebay, but is that it? or could it be anything else.
I was looking to upgrade soon but was waiting for some christmas deals to pop up, but my phone decided to let me down.
Any help appreciated, thanks guys
webstar1 said:
My HTC Sensation, has stopped charging altogether. I took it off charging and when i put it on 10 min later, the LED didnt light up, so i got a toothpick and tried cleaning thecharging port just in case something tiny went in and was blocking it to charge, but that didnt work. The phone was working fine until the battery died and i still cant get it to charge. Now im wondering whats broken, to all those repair specialists out there, what could be broken? I can buy a charging port from ebay, but is that it? or could it be anything else.
I was looking to upgrade soon but was waiting for some christmas deals to pop up, but my phone decided to let me down.
Any help appreciated, thanks guys
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you solved the problem by buying a new phone?, the problem could be the USB connector himself, if you are very handy you can repair it yourself...
anomalic said:
Did you solved the problem by buying a new phone?, the problem could be the USB connector himself, if you are very handy you can repair it yourself...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
maybe your battery died
I'm assuming you've got it fixed / moved on to a different phone / are using an external charger, but this thread got bumped to the top so I figured I'd chime in.
I had this problem as well. Unfortunately, the usb port is soldered on the board and not a separate unit attached via ribbon cable. The solder joint holding the port on the pcb cracked, resulting in a loose port. Over time, this lead to the pins breaking off the pcb. For a while, I was able to get it to charge by applying pressure to the usb plug. Finally, I took it apart and resoldered it, reinforcing the solder joints for the port itself. It's not too difficult if you use some flux. Just line up the pins and tack the port back on. Then rub flux over the pins and tack them with the soldering iron. No additional solder is needed or recommended-- the pins are in close proximity and it'd be easy to bridge them.
Hi there everyone,
So, i seem to be one of the lucky ones who don't need to return the recalled tablet and has it patched against the remote bricking by now...yet, the fear/respect of my battery catching on fire remains...
Now, what if i simply remove the battery from the device (cut the wires, pull it out, throw it away), plug it permanently on the USB charger, connect it to the TV via HDMi and use it as a nvidia shield TV rather than a tablet...
Would the device have any issues not having the battery in?
thx
Jackill said:
Hi there everyone,
So, i seem to be one of the lucky ones who don't need to return the recalled tablet and has it patched against the remote bricking by now...yet, the fear/respect of my battery catching on fire remains...
Now, what if i simply remove the battery from the device (cut the wires, pull it out, throw it away), plug it permanently on the USB charger, connect it to the TV via HDMi and use it as a nvidia shield TV rather than a tablet...
Would the device have any issues not having the battery in?
thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm keeping my fire-hazard and have been wondering the same thing. Is there a brave soul out there willing to disconnect their battery to see what happens?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/shi...let-due-to-t3169461/post62305413#post62305413
Bogdacutu said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/shi...let-due-to-t3169461/post62305413#post62305413
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks! now, where did i put my soldering iron ?
Bogdacutu said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/shi...let-due-to-t3169461/post62305413#post62305413
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm a bit of a noob; so how do you short out the green and white terminals?
bull1295 said:
I'm a bit of a noob; so how do you short out the green and white terminals?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it would be wiser to ask the OP of that particular post @runandhide05 rather than @Bogdacutu
Well, it turns out the linked method doesn't push enough power to the shield when it starts to use power intensive applications including HDMI output. We need another method. Any ideas?
I've also had issues with this method. I have a USB cable hard wired to the board where the battery was connected. I simply stripped the shielding off the green and white wires and twisted them and wrapped them in electrical tape..I also run into the same problem. I managed to get it into console mode and its worked fine over HDMI like that, but haven't done much with it aside from using Plex to stream some Farscape to my TV. We definitely need a better method, or perhaps a better power adapter. I like the idea of wiring straight to the board, allowing us to continue to use USB OTG, but I just dont know about this kind of stuff to find a better solution.
I considered using a Quick Charger instead with a higher output...but i don't want to kill the device either.
EDIT: Okay so I've been using the Shield Tablet with a Quick Charger from CHOETECH.
I successfully started the tablet, connected to HDMI, entered Console mode, loaded up Half Life 2, EPSXE and some other games, at it hasn't died yet.
Do you have a link to the charger you used?
Prfndhatrdofman said:
I've also had issues with this method. I have a USB cable hard wired to the board where the battery was connected. I simply stripped the shielding off the green and white wires and twisted them and wrapped them in electrical tape..I also run into the same problem. I managed to get it into console mode and its worked fine over HDMI like that, but haven't done much with it aside from using Plex to stream some Farscape to my TV. We definitely need a better method, or perhaps a better power adapter. I like the idea of wiring straight to the board, allowing us to continue to use USB OTG, but I just dont know about this kind of stuff to find a better solution.
I considered using a Quick Charger instead with a higher output...but i don't want to kill the device either.
EDIT: Okay so I've been using the Shield Tablet with a Quick Charger from CHOETECH.
I successfully started the tablet, connected to HDMI, entered Console mode, loaded up Half Life 2, EPSXE and some other games, at it hasn't died yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thompsos said:
Do you have a link to the charger you used?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QTJZ3D0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
Here you go. Hopefully it doesn't light our Shield tablets on fire :-/ lol
What about attaching a smaller "safe" battery? Like one from a phone. Would you the shield properly charge it? I'm thinking of using mine for my 3d printer.
Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk
Seems as always their is a solution
Change the battery
https://youtu.be/BJfV5Dr1UTk
Prfndhatrdofman said:
I've also had issues with this method. I have a USB cable hard wired to the board where the battery was connected. I simply stripped the shielding off the green and white wires and twisted them and wrapped them in electrical tape..I also run into the same problem. I managed to get it into console mode and its worked fine over HDMI like that, but haven't done much with it aside from using Plex to stream some Farscape to my TV. We definitely need a better method, or perhaps a better power adapter. I like the idea of wiring straight to the board, allowing us to continue to use USB OTG, but I just dont know about this kind of stuff to find a better solution.
I considered using a Quick Charger instead with a higher output...but i don't want to kill the device either.
EDIT: Okay so I've been using the Shield Tablet with a Quick Charger from CHOETECH.
I successfully started the tablet, connected to HDMI, entered Console mode, loaded up Half Life 2, EPSXE and some other games, at it hasn't died yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that the Quick Charger to the board where the battery was that is letting you do all of that stuff in Console mode?
draukadirtch said:
Is that the Quick Charger to the board where the battery was that is letting you do all of that stuff in Console mode?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, but I ended up finding a replacement battery (some chinese one) and pulled the circuit board off my old battery and soldered it to the new one. It's only 3,000 mAh, but i plan on leaving it plugged in all the time anyway.
Prfndhatrdofman said:
Yes, but I ended up finding a replacement battery (some chinese one) and pulled the circuit board off my old battery and soldered it to the new one. It's only 3,000 mAh, but i plan on leaving it plugged in all the time anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you know your Chinese battery is actually safer to use than the old one?
Especially since you plan to keep the tablet plugged all the time, which generates more heat and stresses the batteries even more...
OMA2k said:
How do you know your Chinese battery is actually safer to use than the old one?
Especially since you plan to keep the tablet plugged all the time, which generates more heat and stresses the batteries even more...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No clue. Guess we'll see what happens
I'm kinda with OMA2k - interested in getting a new battery I know I can rely on. Especially since I'm not living in a house that I own ... I'd hate to say "sorry guys ... I kinda burned down the house with something I knew had the potential."
Anyone with thoughts on getting a good replacement with a warranty or circuit protection, or whatever it is that nVidia did to ensure the safety of the new batteries?
Battery from old broken acer in shield tablet
Hello all,
just wanted to report that a bettery from my broken acer iconia a1 was succesfully transplanted into the shield.
I'll use it with a shield remote for my TV, couse Sony Apps on TV are slow as s**t
I was curious and just opened my old acer tablet for fun and saw that the specs are identical to shields( as probabably many others tablets in this size).
The acer had 4 wires ( red,black, green and yellow ) the old shield battery only plus and minus.Seems acer manages the battery directly, which i think the little peace which goers directly to the standard shield battery is doing also.(if this is right, can some bright person confirm?)
So I conected only red and black where the original battery was connected and it didnt work.
I plugged the charger and the tablet was showing the charging symbol. I pressed again and it booted
Due the fact that the old acer was laying around for a year with empty battery , the battery in shield did't hold longer than 1 Hour youtube videos.
But after some discarge and recharge the battery is getting alot better
In battery mode console mode works.Everything works.
I think its safe cause the the specs are identical.
I cant close the the back cover but i dont care, it wil be behind the tv and also used for skype
MAybe someone will make a an shield TV ROM for shield tablet
Edit:there no heat or even warming when charging, totally cool.
dylandog79 said:
Hello all,
just wanted to report that a bettery from my broken acer iconia a1 was succesfully transplanted into the shield.
I was curious and just opened my old acer tablet for fun and saw that the specs are identical to shields( as probabably many others tablets in this size).
The acer had 4 wires ( red,black, green and yellow ) the old shield battery only plus and minus.Seems acer manages the battery directly, which i think the little peace which goers directly to the standard shield battery is doing also.(if this is right, can some bright person confirm?)
So I conected only red and black where the original battery was connected and it didnt work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Acer may have managed/regulated the battery charging with the protection circuit built into the device/tablet itself (purpose of the additional 2 wires).
The Shield batteries, however, have the regulation/protection circuit built into the battery - hence only needing 2 wires (may even be the faulty part of the recalled batteries/tablets).
If the Acer battery you're using doesn't have a built-in regulation/protection circuit, then you're actually putting yourself at risk again - double check it! Lithium batteries MUST have a proper charging circuit that regulates/monitors the charging process so as not to pose a fire/explosion risk!
Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using XDA Free mobile app
An Droid said:
The Acer likely managed/regulated the battery charging with the protection circuit built into the device itself (purpose of the additional 2 wires).
I believe the Shield batteries, however, have the regulation/protection circuit built into the battery - hence only needing 2 wires (may even be the faulty part of the recalled batteries/tablets).
If the Acer battery you're using doesn't have a built-in regulation/protection circuit, then you're actually putting yourself at risk again. Lithium batteries MUST have a proper charging circuit that regulates/monitors the charging process so as not to pose a fire/explosion risk!
Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well thats the thing.We can not be sure what the real fault was with the Y01 batteries.Was it the battery it self or just the regulation/protection circuit.
For now it even shows me the temperature with acer battery in the stress test app and the temperature is the same as with the new shipped shield tablet.It's even lower with acers.
Even if the acer battery has the 2 extra connections it does not autommaticly mean that the regulating part is happening in the battery.I'm just brainstorming and dont know much about this batteries.
I would be maybe try to connect the Acer battery without the regulation/protection circuit(the little part where the original battery was attached) from shield and instead conect the other two wires directly to the wires from shield mainboard because
directly from the mainboard there also go a green and white wire, beside the red and black, which should be equal to the green and yellow from acer.
what do you think ?
I can remember that when charging the Y01 Battery it was getting quite warm.