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Rubber fitting loose

Hi all,
I wonder whether you have the same issue than I now have after 3 months with my Vox.
The rubber fitting of the USB connector slips out again after I stick it in. Some weeks ago it was still fine, then it started to slip out within 2 hours and now within 5 seconds.
Did anyone fix this problem already? I am close to removing it completely as it is really annoying. But then the USB port is open all the time (well, in fact this is the same now).
The rubber fitting for the storage card is also very loose meanwhile, like a bulge already. Also not nice.
Thanks for your thoughts and help. As always, much appreciated!!!
Have a lovely day
Andi

AndiP said:
Hi all,
I wonder whether you have the same issue than I now have after 3 months with my Vox.
The rubber fitting of the USB connector slips out again after I stick it in. Some weeks ago it was still fine, then it started to slip out within 2 hours and now within 5 seconds.
Did anyone fix this problem already? I am close to removing it completely as it is really annoying. But then the USB port is open all the time (well, in fact this is the same now).
The rubber fitting for the storage card is also very loose meanwhile, like a bulge already. Also not nice.
Thanks for your thoughts and help. As always, much appreciated!!!
Have a lovely day
Andi
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there,
I have removed the rubber covering the USB connector by removing the battery cover and lifting out the part which holds the rubeer in place.
The one over the SD slot is constantly loose. I have no idea for that one.
I am open for other suggestions.
Thanks and good luck.
Chongie

I ripped both the rubbers off my phone some time ago as they are a constant source of irritation

I also took mine off as they just got plain annoying after a while.

just remove it

i think everyone removed it. its a really stupid design. but there was old posts about this quite a while back. anyway, take ur battery cover off then pull on rubber upwards till it pops out. u can put it back if u ever want to sell phone

Known Issue
I believe this is a known issue that HTC used rubber for the connectors and it expands over time making it impossible to fit into their respective homes. However I recently had to send my s710 in for service and it looks like they realized this since when it came back all the connectors were made of some kind of vinyl type material. So far they fit perfectly.
Cheers

I wonder if the replacements can be ordered from HTC?

AndiP said:
Hi all,
I wonder whether you have the same issue than I now have after 3 months with my Vox.
The rubber fitting of the USB connector slips out again after I stick it in. Some weeks ago it was still fine, then it started to slip out within 2 hours and now within 5 seconds.
Did anyone fix this problem already? I am close to removing it completely as it is really annoying. But then the USB port is open all the time (well, in fact this is the same now).
The rubber fitting for the storage card is also very loose meanwhile, like a bulge already. Also not nice.
Thanks for your thoughts and help. As always, much appreciated!!!
Have a lovely day
Andi
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol mate u might find my solution awkward(though it isnt),
this is wat i did::
u get those instant glues ... wch fix in one second, like here in india we have it by name "QUICKFIX" ... get one of that and CAREFULLY apply it to the sides of the rubber thing ONLY THE PART THAT ENTERS THE USB PIN... do it in such a way that only a small film/layer is formed on the rubber such that it becomes rough and fits in without slipping out...
REMEMBER TO BE CAREFUL WEN U R DOING THIS... FOR EXTRA SAFETY, COVER THE REST OF THE PHONE WITH A CLOTH... AND MAKE SURE THAT THE GLUE HAS COMPLETELY DRIED BEFORE U FIT THE RUBBER THING IN THE PIN... IN CASE U PUT SOME EXTRA GLUE THAT HARDENS LATER AND OBSTRUCTS, THEN USE A BLADE/PIN TO SCRAP THE EXTRA PART...
ALL THE BEST

I Had the same problem, just send it to HTC technical support, and you will get replacement parts, no physical modding, cuz then they don't put new ones in. Contacted HTC and they replace them, if they see they're loose.

I pulled out my rubber too it is better that way. No harm to phone obviously you can put it back

rubber issue
I've had my 710 repaired because of a faulty mainboard. They fixed the rubbers as well.

Aluminum locking case

Ran across this today searching for cases for the Epic. Anyone using one? Its interesting in that it locks the slider during normal use and hinges open if you want to use the keyboard.
http://www.pdair.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=10100000_10000000_11001061&products_id=31414

Now this looks like quite a nice case for functionality.
Now if they just took off the whole part in the back for the clip and form fit the corners a bit more and offered it in more colors that'd be nice.

This may be the best thing I can do for now, I have been scouring for a jelly case to slip over the epic, since I never use the keyboard

Now, if somebody has the ability to cleanly cut aluminum and wants to sell a matched set consisting of this case with a hole cut in the back for the hump on the extended battery the other guy is selling to poke through... (strokes credit card and sighs)
It's hard to tell from the pics... does the case snap onto the lower half, or does the phone just rest inside?
How firmly does it secure the phone when the case is closed? Does the power button still cause the two halves to separate a little, or are both held firmly in place from both sides?

bitbang3r said:
Now, if somebody has the ability to cleanly cut aluminum and wants to sell a matched set consisting of this case with a hole cut in the back for the hump on the extended battery the other guy is selling to poke through... (strokes credit card and sighs)
It's hard to tell from the pics... does the case snap onto the lower half, or does the phone just rest inside?
How firmly does it secure the phone when the case is closed? Does the power button still cause the two halves to separate a little, or are both held firmly in place from both sides?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are videos on you tube. The bottom looks like a very snug press fit. Top must be looser to allow for the hinge to work.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

...
I had a similar case for my old HTC Titan. I LOVED it. Being a pretty serious phone abuser, that case kept my phone together!
-Rob

I used to have a similar case for my Treo and they are extremely well made. I irregularly dropped my phone from about 5 feet in the air onto hard linoleum and it never suffered any indignities. These come in both black and silver so if you want a different color you would want the silver so you could send it out to be powder coated.
I just ordered one.

Mine came last night.
The good: locks the slider firmly closed. No wobble or "play" at all when pressing the power button. Phone easy to remove (for GameGripper purposes).
The bad: Feels terrifyingly slippery compared to the Seidio ActiveX. Obstructs "slide down" gesture for notifications.
The seemingly fatal (a big one): my "back" fake hardkey keeps randomly going berserk... but ONLY that specific one. The foam in the top half seems to be confusing the capacitive sensor.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App

Update: I've had the 'search' fake hardkey freak out a few times on me, too.
Another problem: it's definitely affecting reception. 4G and GPS barely work with the case in place.
Sigh. So close. So agonizingly close. It's awesome to not have the phone shear and jiggle apart every time I hit the power button, and the fact that it allows the phone to be easily removed for the Game Gripper without really compromising the slide-out keyboard's usability is very cool.
I'm really convinced that this case went straight from plastic prototype to mass production before anyone actually tried to use it in an area with 4G service, high humidity (presumably what's screwing up the foam and touchscreen), and who didn't just assume that the GPS was dysfunctional because Samsung sucks.
Sigh. Too expensive to throw away, and really nice in ways that ultimately don't matter because the touchscreen-button problem makes it totally unusable

The plot thickens: more touchscreen observations:
* Oddly, there's NO FOAM around the lower part of the screen where the phantom-pressed fake hardkeys are.
* Last night, it went completely berserk with phantom button presses on cue when I rubbed the latch a certain way.
This suggests that the problem's root cause might extend to the electrical conductivity of the case itself. It's strange, because I wasn't able to find reports of the same problem for users of Monaco cases for other phones (like the Droid). Lots of complaints about signal attenuation, but no reports of touchscreen problems.
I'm seriously tempted to buy some liquid electrical tape and coat the inside of the lid to see whether it helps. The problem DOES seem to go away when the lid is no longer in contact with the screen. However, if it's happening because the sensor is acting kind of like a Hall Effect sensor and the case is acting like a Faraday cage, nothing short of making the case (or at least the top lid) out of plastic is likely to fix the problem. Still, it's worth a try since I really like the case itself, and my alternative is to basically chuck it.

Update: as an experiment, I wrapped black electrical tape around the bottom lip of the top part. It helped a lot. I think I might have also found a contributing cause: cat fur. I think wisps of cat fur might be bridging the metal case & screen and carrying static electricity to the sensor. Oddly, though, some of its *worst* back-arrow spasams have occurred with the phone laying on the desk, untouched, 3 feet away.
I'm still trying to think of a good way to plastic-coat the case without making it look bad & get a nice, even black rubbery coating on it.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App

How thin is it compared to the other plastic cases?

Very interested in getting the Monaco Aluminum Case, which is very similar to this one. My last concern, how thin is it compared to Seidio Innocase Surface?

[Project] [05/29/11] [99.90%] Custom dock for the G2/Desire Z that fits with Otterbox

Updates are Bolded. Scroll down to see it.
So looking around, it is obvious that there is no such thing as a dock that fits the G2/Desire Z equipped with an Otterbox. I have heard of a material called Friendly Plastic which is very malleable when prepped but when it hardens, it becomes a very strong plastic. I'm thinking of creating a custom cradle that will fit the Desire Z with the otterbox which will include a charger as well. So I'm going to be buying the material from Amazon and see if I can mold the plastic into a dock that custom fits my phone with the otterbox on.
I'll give updates as I work on this project. It might take a month or two since I am doing my Master's degree, an internship and also working on a film for school (we go into production this week [in fact equipment check out is tommorrow and we shoot thursday]). I'll try to get this thread updated as I work on it so stay tuned.
03/01/11
Ordered parts to create a custom dock. I looked around for Friendly Plastic which is extremely hard to find in California (specifically in the LA area). I found on amazon.com a similar item called Instamorph which I checked their website. It is extremely well planned and pretty much the same item but much cheaper.
http://www.instamorph.com/
Now if you delve into their site, they show you how to do it and towards the bottom of the page, there is also a "techniques" page where you can do some pretty cool stuff with the material at an advanced level:
http://www.instamorph.com/instructions/
They sell specifically via Amazon. If you spend over 25 bucks in on amazon, you might be able to get the super saver shipping, so if you plan any shopping, add this along for free shipping.
another item I bought is a Left Angle Micro USB Extender.
Now this guy is extremely rare and pretty expensive if you get it custom made.
I found a site called www.usbfirewire.com which sells various types of usb and firewire cables for an ok price. I'm saying that it is ok because it is a very unique type of cable that I am looking for therefor it seems to work best for me. This is the one I got:
http://www.usbfirewire.com/Parts/rr-mcbl-ext-xxg.html
2 things to note here: a custom made cable would cost $50, but the one I got cost me a little under 13 bucks.
Another note is that I got the 5inch length cable because I don't want to spend too much time trying to fit 3 feet of cable inside a dock of malleable plastic. I plan on utilizing as little space as humanly possible to give it the cleanest look.
Currently I have spent: $22.45 + $16.45 = $38.90
This seems like alot but it's because again, it is custom.
Once I get it, I will give more updates.
03/04/11
I just received the stuff, both of them. So I can say that they shipped really fast. I'm going to start making a test trial run of the Instamorph pellets and get used to it before I make the actual dock.
This is the Instamorph and what the pellets look like:
The 5 Inch Micro USB Extender:
2 hours later:
Lessons Learned:
1) 150 degrees Fahrenheit is a very low heat level. On my electric stove, it was around a 3 or 3.5 out of 10.
2) Do NOT, I repeat, do NOT have any of the Instamorph beads touch ANYTHING PLASTIC (this includes the otterbox, plastic cutting sheets, saran wrap, anything that you even think might be plastic). Instamorph can and will stick itself to any plastic material especially when it's closer to the 140-150 degree temperature. It is much safer when it's much much cooler. (you can find this out by touch. if it starts to resist molding, then it is probably safe to attempt an imprint, but you should test it with the smooth side of your otterbox. It will take several tries)
This is what happens when you get impatient:
3) Find a surface that is smooth (glazed surface is good).
4) Use metal equipment. Instamorph will NOT stick to metals, so using any material such as a metal spatula or a metal ruler to get hard edges. if you have a good non plastic cutting surface, you can use a knife or blade to cut it for corners and use your fingers to give it an edge.
5) find a curved edge (again non plastic) that you can mold the initial part of the plastic to get a rough shape.
6) You will constantly place the plastic back into the pot to make it soft again if you're doing alot of changes and shaping. You get on average 2 minutes of molding until it gets too hard to mess with.
1 hour later (dinner):
Ok, now that I am back from dinner:
Today I focused on creating the rough shape of the dock. I'm starting from the part that cradles the phone.
First of all, I set my stove on low. I am at 140 degrees Fahrenheit. When you boil the pellets, this is when you pull it out:
Use tongs or something to take out the mass. If you think you're a badass and want to do it with your bare hands, you are most certainly welcome to do so. Here's another look of it when it's pulled out:
I then use the backing piece as a reference. I treated this mass like play-do. I rolled it and then spread it out on the counter surface. Here I force it into a larger mass that is about 3/4 cm thick.
I waited for the mass to cool down to a semiwhite color before I take a spatula to press down on the edges to get a flat boundary. This is what it looks like when it cools down completely:
Note that you see a notch on the bottom right. This is because when you open up the silicone port for the micro USB, it is a small flap. I use this as a reference piece so that I can create a gap for the flap to slide in so it goes straight into the slot without damaging anything.
The next part is to create the side guides to help you glide the phone in when you lock it down.The first part that I worked on is the right side of the cradle which is the bottom part of the phone. Here i created a long rectangle piece. I then use the edge of my kitchen counter (which is rounded, almost circular) to create a preliminary curve. I then measured the general area of it to how high it would guide the phone.
Originally I was planning to have it go all the way up to the end of the phone but I decided it was a bad idea and cut the side down to about halfway to allow me to grab it from the top half.
Now I worked on the left side (top of the phone). Here I noticed that there is a silicone cover for the headphones, so I decided to have the guide as tall as where the silicone port is at.
Now that I have done all that, This is all extremely rough work. Once I assemble the pieces that does not have the Micro USB port, I'll be sanding them down and smoothing it out so it looks better. Here's the general look of how it will be fitted in for now.
First of all this is only the part that the back of the phone will be sliding down. I am planning to create the bottom part that will house the Micro USB cable and the back piece that will hold the backing upright as the back base.
END OF DAY 1.
I will update on a later time. I am on set from 5:30am to 5:30pm so I might have time to work on the next step, but right now I might update this thread next week depending on how much time I have. I am currently juggling an internship, class, film production, post production, and moving to a new apartment (has to be done by the end of this month) so I might not update for a while. Hopefully I can work on it soon.
Small Update: 04/05/11:
After having an extremely hard time molding the material with a spatula and the kitchen counter, I finally caved in and bought a set of clay sculpting tool. (Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SVRSRY ). I'm waiting for it to come in the mail.
Another update to this is that I switched my method for creating the dock. I decided to start from the bottom first. I created the base for the dock by creating the first layer, this is where the general layout of where the microUSB cable will be laying on. Then I worked on creating smaller pieces that fit around the first base that sculpts itself around the cable. I'll be posting some pictures sometime later when I have more time.
April 26 2011:
I should've updated this a long time ago, but my internship has finally come to an end so I had enough time to give an update.
First thing I did was make use of the tool set that I received via Amazon from the above mentioned link:
Now with the use of these tools, I start to put the dock in parts and layers.
The first thing I did was create parts of the first layer, combined them into one piece, then finally heat them in the water pot just long enough to get a small amount of the whole surface moldable without damaging the core structure.
From that I create the next layer which is the top layer:
note here that the top piece (with the weird looking hole in it is made to accommodate the silicone flap that covers the port that comes with the otterbox case.
the last piece hasn't been change too much because I'm still trying to decide if I should have a backing piece for the phone or have a "well" that holds the phone just from the bottom.
the layers will be secured through 4 small metal bolts (the ones that you get from Ikea furniture that feature adjustable shelves [the small metal bolt thingies that you can remove and adjust.])
Another thing to note with this is that when using the pottery tools, you can easily dip the tips in the hot water for 5-10 seconds to heat it up and allow custom targeted molding at parts you specifically want.
Here are some more pics of the parts as I molded them.
5/27/11
So for the past few days I've been tweaking with the design and finding methods to give it a more defined look. While I was at Ikea, I came across these handle pieces that were meant for a particular furniture. They had 90degree angles, metal, straight. So I bought that and use it as a partial mold when I shaped the edges. After working about 6 hours over the course of 2 days, I have come pretty close to what I want before I finish it with sanding and a way to put it together.
Here are the pics of what I have ended up with so far. I still need to sand it, and also figure out a way to combine the pieces without encasing the cable permanently.
Here are the two pieces separated:
This is the bottom piece on where the connector pointed upwards
This is the bottom with the cable in it
This is what the pieces will look when put together (assuming that I can find out a way to combine them together [non permanently])
This is the dock with my phone in it (notice the rubber bands. It's only a temporary measure to keep it together). And It's charging! that means the connection is secure!
This is the side view from the right side
This is the side view from the left side
top view of the dock
From this point, I'd like to ask your help and suggestions as to how I can put the two pieces together to so that if anything happens, I can open it up and replace the cable again. I'm also considering the opportunity if in the far future when I happen to replace my Desire Z I can always remold the piece without doing extensive damage to the cable if it happens to survive.
My next steps are as follows:
Add a piece in the back to support the weight of the phone.
Sand and prep the surface to make it smooth.
Create a method to hold the 2 pieces together
potentially spray paint it to a specific color
Any suggestions would be great since this is my first ever project that is building a custom material.
Thanks!
5/29/11 - 99.90% completed!!!!!
After spending roughly 6 hours on it, I have managed to finish the dock!!!
The first thing I did was to drill 5 holes into the dock to place the metal pin. I started by drilling with a 1/16 drill bit as a guide. and finally followed up with a 3/16 drill bit. I drilled from the bottom piece with the 2 pieces together but stopped part of the way through the top piece because it was unnecessary to drill all the way through. This is for the metal pins to place in between the pieces.
After that I worked on just the top piece and drilled just deep enough for the pin to fit in flush.
Went back to the bottom piece to cover up the holes by using the plastic pieces that got pulled up as I drill to fill in the bottom hole and using the rounded end of one of the clay sculpting tools to jam pack it back down to the bottom to ensure a strong fit.
I then combine the 2 pieces together to see the fit. I noticed that I failed to account for the notch between the pin so I went back to the hot pot and heated up the inside surface of the bottom piece and placed the metal pins in and pushed it in so the notch sinks below the surface (with the help of a hammer [and no, don't go "HULK SMASH" on it, just tap it lightly]).
From that point, I tweaked the fit with the cable inside of it and by looking through the gap, I either added or removed plastic parts so that it finally closes completely.
After that is all done, I started with a 60 grit sand paper (with a hand sanding tool) and worked on ALL the surfaces and sanded until I got 99% of the surfaces rough
I then go back and refit the metal pins to make sure that the pieces still fit and see if I need to make tweaks (which I did since at 60grit, it takes away quite abit of plastic).
I did a little more tweaking with the plastic. Adding and removing as necessary to make it fit flush.
After all that is done, I go back and worked on all the surfaces again with a 150grit sandpaper to give it a smoother finish. and finally finished it off with a 220 grit sand paper.
A good hour and a half later of hand sanding it and sore back and arms the surface is as smooth as a 220grit sand paper can offer.
The last thing I did was reheated the hot pot to around 145 degrees Fahrenheit. I took apart the dock again and this time placed it in the hotpot for around 10 seconds. Just enough for the malleable plastic to "shrink" back into the plastic and give it a smooth finish.
After it's done, I ran the pieces through cold water to set the plastic and put the whole thing together.
Below are the pics of what I have done (again, these are thumbnails. Click on it for full size):
All the pieces completely disassembled. 5 metal pins. 2 plastic parts. Left Angle micro usb extender
Metal pins inserted into the bottom piece
Dock completely assembled
My phone on it
Plugged in!!!!
Landscape mode! (and notice that it's charging! So the cables work!)
More angles
Finally, I have one thing to ask of you guys. Should I leave the dock to look as it is or should I do something about it?
I am thinking about either spray painting it or buy a "skin" (think DecalGirl skins) and cut out the pieces to fit around it.
Tell me what you guys think and what you can think of to make it better! Thanks!
oh yeah, and I finally did something about the back piece of my otterbox when it got screwed up. I did the sandpaper treatment on it and here's what it looks like now:

Sounds interesting, looking forward to seeing your progress/results.

I'm currently in the process of ordering parts. So here's a question for everyone:
Which would be the best extension port for the dock. Standard USB, Mini USB, or Micro USB.
My plan is to mold a Micro USB male head to another adapter to give it the most commonly used female port. The idea is to plug in a cable into the dock to minimize the chance of the inner cord being damaged and moved unncessarily. (think of the docks you get off ebay that just have a male port to plug in the phone and a female port out the back end so you can plug in a cable of your choice (length, brand, etc)
Here's a poll of what your preference:
http://www.polljunkie.com/bA7AA5/Poll10601.aspx

Updated: 3/4/11

Any progress/updates?
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using XDA App

Unfortunetly, not yet. I have to get through this month first. I need to have a first cut of my film out very soon, internship, finish moving to a new apartment and deal with classes. I will be promptly resuming this project when this month is over.
Sent from my Desire Z via XDA App

small Update. Check bolded txt in OP

Updated April 26. Bolded text in OP

Updated May 27. Bolded txt in OP

mputtr said:
From this point, I'd like to ask your help and suggestions as to how I can put the two pieces together to so that if anything happens, I can open it up and replace the cable again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why not try Moulding little tabs onto one side & then a hole on the other so it kinda snaps/slides together. That way you can always reopen it at a later date

KarlosTheJackal said:
Why not try Moulding little tabs onto one side & then a hole on the other so it kinda snaps/slides together. That way you can always reopen it at a later date
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so you're saying to have one of the pieces have tabs that extends to the other piece and add a hole to kind of screw it in? Sounds like a good idea as well!
I'm a little fuzzy on the visual of it, is it possible for you to provide a visual example so I might be able to replicate it? Thanks!

Updated! 99.90% done!

does anyone have suggestions or comments on how I can improve on the dock?

The finished project looks awesome man! I think, like you said, if you added some type of black texture or skin to it that it would look fantastic and even store purchased. Great craftmanship.
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA Premium App

PatrickHuey said:
The finished project looks awesome man! I think, like you said, if you added some type of black texture or skin to it that it would look fantastic and even store purchased. Great craftmanship.
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ah, so you think a black coloring to the dock would work? I'll test that out!
I'm also thinking of maybe taking the top piece back into work and take out more of the recess/well for the phone and maybe fashion a silicone or softer piece for the phone to rest in and might look better. (that or get a sanding head bit and sand it down till it's smooth)
Would you suggest using a skin (like a sticker type material) or just spray paint the darn thing?
as usual for those who have read any of this, I would like to get suggestions on what I can do to improve upon it.
Currently I'm also researching a method on how to activate the phone's "dock" mode. As far as my research goes, some android phones have a special magnet inside of it that reacts to polarity (one polarity for car mode and the other for home dock). I also read that potentially, HTC made a special micro usb cable that has 1 additional pit that "activates" the feature. I do not really know much of this so I'm trying to figure out how to make this happen. If someone here happens to know, and it can be something I can physically manipulate, I'll modify the dock to include the manipulation.
and again, Thanks for the praise and your suggestions!

nice work and detailed instructions are always nice. I would definitely spraypaint it black. Did you form the top and bottom parts by hand? they look a litte bumpy to me.I thought about doing this for mine and integrate it into my desk.
As for the docking mode (deskclock) i use Alarm Clock Plus. It switches into dockmode when you plug it in. I think they getting the info if its docked either from the orientation of the phone and its usb connection or the poweradapter - maybe both. Maybe its the dock im using but i did't notice some special wiring oder plug.

dieterxy said:
nice work and detailed instructions are always nice. I would definitely spraypaint it black. Did you form the top and bottom parts by hand? they look a litte bumpy to me.I thought about doing this for mine and integrate it into my desk.
As for the docking mode (deskclock) i use Alarm Clock Plus. It switches into dockmode when you plug it in. I think they getting the info if its docked either from the orientation of the phone and its usb connection or the poweradapter - maybe both. Maybe its the dock im using but i did't notice some special wiring oder plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
everything is formed by hand mostly. the curved parts had to be done by hand, but I did take down alot of the uneven by sanding it down for a good hour and half.
I'm currently using Alarm Clock Extreme and it does not have the dock mode, which bums me out, but I'm supplementing it with Night Clock which is a really neat app. I also paired it up with Automate It by adding a kill app on unplug action so it's sorta kinda like dock mode.
do you have any suggestions as how I can make the surfaces smoother? Is there something that I can do or get to remove the bumps more effectively?

i would use some kind of metalblocks and put the dock between them but that only works before putting it all together. Or maybe just wrap the plastic around the metalblock so that its hollow.

I probably wont be doing anything like messing with metal material since I do not have the necessary equipment nor do I have the time and money to afford that.
But I'm thinking of potentially using a skin type material and spraypaint it + my own design for it.
I had some fun with the dremel tool at my schools workshop room so I was able to get the right depth and well for the phone to slid in.
I wonder if there is anything like silicone material that can be injected on top of the material so I can make an impression (safely) and so when it sets it actually is cushioned rather than placed on the hard plastic.
I'll see if I can post more pics if I deem that the extra sanding I did made any difference.

Any updates to this?

Clingo Vent Mount - pics/first impression

alright, so i bought the clingo vent mount from london drugs today (19.99), pretty easy install. the thing sticks like crazy, if i put it full on back-to-back then i need to be very careful taking it off or else it will pull the battery cover a bit. my fix is to put it only on the right side of the phone, ie only using 3/4 of the sticky pad. this way it also leaves the speaker vent open. if you already have a case on the phone then i can see it working out even better.
overall the build quality is decent for plastic, the ball bearing feels solid and is enclosed by a metal ring so it wont get loose easy. the pad itself has a crazy grip, i dont think any amount of shock or potholes can dislodge the phone.
best part of this mount is that it doesnt require any fittings, as long as it still sticks i can see myself using it with a few other devices including GS3 when it comes out. and yes, it can be rotated horizontally for navigation use.

Question Mekede/Navifly HeadUnits. What's in the box?! (UNIVERSAL MODEL 7682)

Hey,
I tried asking the seller this (official Mekede store), but I don't think they understood my question well and never responded to me after the first time.
I need to know what exactly the universal model comes with... It's loads cheaper outright and cuts the shipping price in half since they won't need to ship a huge trim piece along with it.
I already ordered a PAC CAN interface, so I don't believe I would need theirs. (Unless it's the only one that will interface with the built in software?)
I'm not sure if it even comes with a harness at all. That's fine if it doesn't.. I can order their universal power harness along with the unit.
However the universal power harness doesn't have the 3.5mm jack/plug that the PAC sends it's SWC commands through. So I don't know how that would work.
As far as the mounting and trim piece go...Does it at least come with a universal type bracket (s) to screw into the side of the case, and then screw into the dash mounts?
If it doesn't, I can fab something up, but I'd like to know what I'm working with.
The trim piece/bezel, I just plan to take a rotary tool and steady hand to my factory piece. Their trim piece would require me to cut it up anyway since it doesn't fully match my vehicle (theirs is Chrysler, and mine is dodge)
I hope these come off as coherent questions. Anyone, please, let me know.. what comes with in the box, and how will I interface to the SWC?

I think I answered one of my questions. The steering wheel control on the adapter is just two wires going into a headphone plug/jack (can't remember which)
I can just cut the connector off, or sacrifice/buy and old female/male connector to connect to the wiring harness from the radio.
I ordered the unit, so I'll find out in a few weeks the answers to the rest of my questions

Follow up.
I got the package. A little underwhelmed. I thought I was ordering a Mekede M600, but got the M500 instead. Whatever. It was only $220 before taxes and shipping.
It took them a week to actually get it into dhls hands. After that, it only took DHL 3 days to get it to me from China. Fairly impressed at that.
The contents are exactly what's pictured in the ad, nothing more. Only the wires to plug in the back. I ordered the "universal ISO" harness along with the unit, otherwise it may not have come with anything. That was $1.50 I think.
That's okay. I've got a PAC Audio can interface in plan to connect it to, so the standard 15 wire plug should suffice.
The unit is not actually a double din chassis. I was hoping a little too hard on that. I guess I let the pictures fool me.
Whatever. I've gotta work with what I've got. No turning back now.
A bit disappointed that they don't even include the screws that go into the back of the unit that are needed to mount it to a bracket. I'll have to figure out what size those are at some point soon.
I haven't even tried to power it on yet.
The unit did come with a plastic "screen protector" on it. Not really meant to be a protector, but the typical plastic you'll find covering new screens. It has a tab on the side to pull it off. You know what I'm talking about.
Good thing it has it, because it came out of the box scratched up. Hopefully the screen itself isn't scratched.
I spent the last few hours pondering on how I'm going to mount it up and how I'm going to fit it into my factory bezel. Do I want it flush mounted or do I take the easy way out?
IDK but I'm thinking flush mount.
I asked the seller for any kind of blueprint or CAD drawing of the back of the radio with the mounting holes. I'm sure they'll totally understand my request and definitely send that right over
I'm the meantime, while I'm holding my breath for that response, I went ahead and hastily drew it up.
I crudely reverse engineered the back of the radio with a tape measure and calipers. Then I measured my opening in the vehicle and got that hole placement in the cold dark with a tape measure . I'm sure my first prototype won't exactly be perfect, but hopefully i can work with it.
I'll cut it on the laser tomorrow and see how where I can go from there

Hi, just to say as a noob I found this helpful and interesting, if you can update on how it's going that would be great

Anything you want to know, just ask
This it the unit installed.
I made a custom bracket and then had to make a custom "frame" to clamp onto the cars trim piece so that I could route out the opening with a Dremel and carbide bit

That's my journey. I ended up with 3 more revisions of the mounting bracket.
Had to shrink the length down a little because it fit too tightly ... Added a notch at the top so the connector for the hazard lights would clear.
Also I reverse engineered the face of the radio and the bolt pattern on the back with some calipers and a tape measure. The seller wasn't about to give me cad or dimensions

watson540 said:
That's my journey. I ended up with 3 more revisions of the mounting bracket.
Had to shrink the length down a little because it fit too tightly ... Added a notch at the top so the connector for the hazard lights would clear.
Also I reverse engineered the face of the radio and the bolt pattern on the back with some calipers and a tape measure. The seller wasn't about to give me cad or dimensions
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Hey man, what size was the mounting screws for the head unit? The mekede store doesn't tell me anything lol.

Simmonsj17 said:
Hey man, what size was the mounting screws for the head unit? The mekede store doesn't tell me anything lol.
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I believe it was m5?
It's been a while