Had no idea the actual image quality could be tweaked. Was browsing the LG Optimus G forums and saw this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2073013
Wow the improvement is noticeable. And with the camera being slightly disappointing on the Razr HD, any chance it could be similarly modded??
One thing that I noticed that helps is the default is 6MP 'widescreen'. Putting it on 8MP 'regualar' is still widescreen enough and seems to be less grainy.
Still trying to figure out what 'HDR' mode is.
HDR is high dynamic range. It gives the objects in the picture a glow or 'halo' effect, but works best in a well lit environment. Let me check how the XML is setup in the RAZR.
Okay I pulled the XML and the settings can definitely be improved, although whether or not it actually helps with the quality yet remains to be seen. Picture below is taken with the factory XML at 8 megapixels. I am modifying it right now and will push it to the phone, and hopefully if it doesn't result in a boot loop, take new picture with the modified XML.
http://tinypic.com/r/k3x0js/6
Okay my phone is still alive after replacing the XML file. Took picture with the same camera settings, see below. Initial findings show it doesn't seem to make a difference, so we're likely limited to the camera sensor itself. I'll leave the modified XML on my phone since it's not doing any harm. Note that the file size of the pictures are larger than the original set, which suggests that there less image compression being done and the photos are retaining as much details and definition as software allows.
http://tinypic.com/r/zu1t0g/6
Thanks for the effort, and I have the stock 4.2 camera, so does the mod stay the same?
BinarySauce said:
Thanks for the effort, and I have the stock 4.2 camera, so does the mod stay the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, pull your media_profiles.xml from /etc/, modify it and push it back. I do not advise simply copying and pasting the XML from the Optimus G thread as an improper configuration file can cause your phone to boot loop.
*sigh* I had high hopes for this thread as I have my eyes on the RAZR HD as a possible new phone, but the sub par camera is holding me back.
also make sure when modifying the XML file u use a program that won't change the character encoding (ie word or notepad). Use apps like notepad+ or notepad2
TRF-Inferno said:
Yes, pull your media_profiles.xml from /etc/, modify it and push it back. I do not advise simply copying and pasting the XML from the Optimus G thread as an improper configuration file can cause your phone to boot loop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you use the same values from the Optimus G thread? And I think you're too close, back up to the point where some text looks blurry on the original camera and try again
BinarySauce said:
Did you use the same values from the Optimus G thread? And I think you're too close, back up to the point where some text looks blurry on the original camera and try again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, used the same value. 100 is the maximum allowed value for encoding, and it's pointless to allocate past 40 MB for image processing as a 8 megapixel RAW file doesn't even get that big.
I have taken other pictures as well (Outdoors, scenery, etc.), and I really can't see a noticeable difference besides the image file being larger (~2.1 MB opposed to 1.5 MB). The camera sensor is the limitation here.
There are several image editing programs - and some free good ones - but need an app that can do some specific tasks on the Asus Transformer TF
Besides basic tweaks (crop, sharpening, brightness), need the ability to add arrows and arrowheads (in different colors) pointing to specific areas, and adding text to the corresponding colors.
Being able to organize several photos in frames (such as the program PicFrame) would be a bonus.
Know any paid programs that can do this? Help greatly appreciated!
Skitch from Evernote will do it - free and basic. I use snapseed for editing and skitch for placing annotations like arrows/markers
Before I got photoshop touch (which is excellent, btw), I used Picsart. I recommend checking it out, it's free.
I use pixlr express. Super easy to use and highly affective. Plus you can save as any file size.
Jbb3393 said:
I use pixlr express. Super easy to use and highly affective. Plus you can save as any file size.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In pixlr express when I import an image its resolution get decreased and image quality gets bad... Any idea why it's happening
- Sent from my Super Geeky Handheld Device
godofgeeks said:
In pixlr express when I import an image its resolution get decreased and image quality gets bad... Any idea why it's happening
- Sent from my Super Geeky Handheld Device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you editing high resolution photos from a camera like a dslr? I tested it on a shot from the tablet camera and the actual size of the photo (in Mb) was actually almost doubled. And I didn't notice any decrease in quality. It does ask you what size to save it as, right?
Jbb3393 said:
Are you editing high resolution photos from a camera like a dslr? I tested it on a shot from the tablet camera and the actual size of the photo (in Mb) was actually almost doubled. And I didn't notice any decrease in quality. It does ask you what size to save it as, right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope I am talking about 8mp images from my camera or any other normal wallpaper image.... As soon as i import it..... Resolution of that image gets low... Pixels gets distort.
- Sent from my Super Geeky Handheld Device
godofgeeks said:
Nope I am talking about 8mp images from my camera or any other normal wallpaper image.... As soon as i import it..... Resolution of that image gets low... Pixels gets distort.
- Sent from my Super Geeky Handheld Device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If we are talking about this app
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pixlr.express
Then I'm not sure really... Let me know if us find anything better
What's New:
"The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them." - xdabbeb
Instructions:
1) Do a backup in recovery, or backup the original files to be overwritten (check ZIP for names).
2) Flash.
AOSP
1) Flash.
NOTE: If these work on your variant and it's not on the list below, let us know so we can add it.
STOCK ROM
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed (Mirror)
AOSP-based ROM (EXPERIMENTAL)
DOWNLOAD - v2
DOWNLOAD - v1
AOSP-based ROM Notes
The low-light FPS increase may not be in effect.
Burst is not working (but is available and may cause issues).
The intelligent auto does not work in low-lighting.
FC occurs when switching to front-camera, or using Panorama settings.
Confirmed Variants for Stock:
F320KE11
VS98011A (VZW)
D802A
D802B
LS980 (Sprint)
D800
Confirmed Variants for AOSP-based:
D802B
D803
D800 (AT&T)
LG Optimus 2x (P990)
Confirmed ROMs for Stock:
Stock rooted on all confirmed variants.
Malladus (VZW)
Grievous (D800)
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.3):
AOSP
HeatshiverSX (AOKP)
OSE (VZW)
Carbon
PACman
PA
Slim ROM
CM10.2
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.4):
PA
Gummy (VZW)
CM11
SlimKat
LucidPhusion
Create a Flashable ZIP Backup
1) If you would like to make a ZIP backup simply download the ZIP file for the update and make a copy.
2) Download a file explorer like ES Explorer or Root Explorer.
3) Open up the update ZIP and look at all the names of the folders, those will be mimicked in your phone's system folder.
4) Check the files within the folders of the update ZIP and note all the names, these will also be mimicked in your phone.
5) Use your file explorer and copy all the mimicked files in your phone to your SD card.
6) Connect your phone to your PC.
7) Move all your files to somewhere easily accessible.
8) Open (do not extract) the update ZIP copy with 7z or WinRAR.
9) Go into each folder (except META-INF) and copy over the files from your phone to the update ZIP copy.
10) Once you are done you now have a flashable ZIP to revert back to your previous state.
Camera NOT Showing in 4.3/4.4 Fix
If the AOSP camera is not appearing in the app drawer, first stop the camera that comes with the ROM, clear that camera's data, and then disable it. Reboot the phone and the AOSP camera should now be present. If it is not, then it is likely disabled. Re-enable it and that should get it to display.
Credits: xdabbeb, sefnap, Jishnu Sur
Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??
Tried this on the Sprint version. Didn't work. First time I installed the apks my phone did a boot loop twice and updated Android. Then I copied all the files into the other locations now my camera FC.
Sent from my LG-LS980 using xda app-developers app
edangel said:
Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java
Thinking about trying this. I'll be smart and nandroid. I'll let you know in about 30 minutes. I'm att
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4
I was in the process of making some flashable additions for "my" ROM so here goes a flashable update and one to revert.
It removes and adds the necessary files.
Here's a flashable restore: http://www.adrive.com/public/bZgr7H/LGCamera_Restore.zip
If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.
This did work for me. I over wrote all the files and changed their permissions then deleted the odex files for the gallery and camera. The video focus is not fixed so not really worth the time IMO but thanks for sharing!!
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4
I'm playing with it and I've noticed no difference. I'm still getting watercolor photos.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
great work!thx
Looks like viewfinder now is less laggy. And at last i got the menu like in all reviews, before i had a strange Verizon moded camera without pics in menu and without Auto Flash in A.I. mode.
Anyway need to test it in low light conditions in the evening.
xdabbeb said:
If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, just wanted to know if you have any comment on this particular post someone made in another thread regarding the camera:
ZigZagJoe said:
TL;DR: Use sports mode. If desperate, try forcing ISO to 800.
Did some more testing of the camera. Sports mode does indeed bias towards faster shutter speeds - usually seems to pick ISO 400 where normal/auto would have used a shutter speed two stops slower and ISO 100. If sports mode is not cutting it, set ISO 800 and hope. If you don't get it at ISO 800, you won't get it with the default camera app. Some third party apps (I tried FV-5) allow you to specify ISO 1600, but image quality will be even worse. Really, just get a real camera out or get into better lighting.
Something else I have to mention is if you are using the modified camera app, if the guy did indeed manage to modify the actual amplification levels, what he did will reduce performance in regards to capturing moving objects as it will force a slower shutter speed - not entirely sure that guy knows what he is monkeying with.
My personal theory on the slow focus in low light is its being caused by the camera dropping below 1/30th of a second shutter speeds in favor of getting a proper exposure to be able focus precisely. If this is the case, forcing it to underexpose to get a smooth preview and faster focus could result in it being unable to focus.
There is a workaround for that, though, and focusing on moving objects: use the manual focus feature LG was so kind to include and set it to infinity focus. As long as you are about 3 feet or more from the object being photographed, everything will be in focus and there will be no shutter lag.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Who is this ZigZagJoe Elite Recognized Dev?? If he thinks I'm a noob, please fix all the problems of the camera. Seems like He made the camera for the LG G2. If you did, man you are a bad engineer! !
Heatshiver said:
and provides a simple method to turn off the camera click sound.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not working in my f320k. Camera ver. 4.3.1
javahuan said:
Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks...deleting the odex files made camera working..
@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
@KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.
Heatshiver said:
@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
@KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Image quality definitely gets worse as ISO increases - saturation and fine detail take a dive off a cliff, to say nothing of noise. Fine detail loss is then compounded by overzealous noise reduction. Quality loss is more noticeable in these cameras due to the tiny sensor.
Yes, it makes sense that sports mode would increase shutter speed, but without documentation to that effect, who knows what it might do? For all I knew it could just be applying filters and/or changing WB like the other modes seem to do. Not sure what landscape mode does, even. Probably modifies saturation. Exposure settings increasing and decreasing framerate would make sense as it'd be changing exposure by decreasing/increasing shutter speed. Only time you'd have things out of focus is if they are closer than 3 feet, which is the approximate hyperfocal length for these sensor/lens combinations. One of the only blessings of such a small sensor....
Misc data, the phone is able to capture at 1/10000 of a second if conditions permit - ie. taking a picture of a light bulb. Might be able to go a bit faster; some images has the speed recorded as 1/INT_MAX. 1/6s seems to be the minimum shutter speed.
If autofocus was made a bit more "brave", ie. bigger focus steps, it could help, at the expense of focus precision. Could possibly be gotten away with as focus doesn't need to be hyper precise on these things anyways. Trade offs no matter how you go though - you either get slow, but accurate AF, faster but less accurate AF, or fast AF that can't focus (minimum FPS raised). A bandaid fix would be to have the flash LED turn on and be used as an AF-assist lamp for focusing in low light always instead of only when flash is enabled. Of course, wouldn't help when the object isn't in range, but still an improvement.
@ZigZagJoe
Unfortunately, that's not how ISO works. An ISO increase increases noise, it does not desaturate or deteriorate fine detail. Quality is also not saturation. A person who knows about and performs color correction does not saturate a photo as it will hinder quality in post. That isn't to say that is what quality is. If saturation is how you like your pictures, that's fine, but that lends to a personal definition (albeit common) of quality, not a technical definition of quality. I would imagine it is pretty hard to determine detail loss if noise is covering it up to begin with? It would have to be drastically different for that to be apparent. Maybe you are mistaking compression artifacts for noise? Quality is about bitrates, the higher the bitrate the less compression artifacts, which means the better the detail. In either case, the ISO is not making it worse. So it is either bitrate variation you are talking about, or the post-processing system of the camera. The sensor is tiny, but that doesn't mean much other than more ISO noise than a larger sensor. If it did, then a 5DMKII would look leaps and bounds better than a 7D, but it doesn't. It is a matter of hardware. I can name two phones from last year with near-identical sized sensors, but their quality is vastly different.
I am not going to go over the modes as they do have purposes, but they will take a long time to explain. If you have used any basic cameras of the last decade you should know what they do. Manufacturers rarely deviate from these modes other than by name. Besides, the best photographers use the manual mode.
Exposure value would not just affect shutter speeds but ISO settings as well (as evident through simple testing). It should also affect aperture, but cameras on phones have a fixed aperture. However, while shutter speeds are initially changed on this phone, they stay constant. ISO then varies depending on the lighting situation. I took 4 videos of 2 locations, all at 30fps, two at +2 EV, and two at -2 EV, and each set in a light and near-black (dark) area. The results were that the light +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of compression artifacts from a bitrate of 13+MB/s. The dark +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of noise. The light -2 changed to 24fps and showed much less compression artifacts at a bitrate of 17+MB/s. The dark -2 showed almost nothing at all, but the tiny emitting lights that were shown were smooth. These were all done with this mod and no focus issues were present.
I think the true issue with auto-focus primarily stems from IOS. This is the first 13MP to have it, so it's bound to have some kinks (hence the need for an update).
The more important issue is that people all want to complain about a camera phone. And when someone like @Jishnu Sur wants to help out, people insert the comments with false or half-truth information that others take as fact. Some could argue that there is no harm if just speculating, but smarter people know better. The bottom line is that the camera is great as it is. If you want a better AF, get a real camera. But those who get a real camera, and know how to use them, already know that manual focus is the way to go.
I hope this helps clear some things up, but any further comments should be left to PM or back on the thread where this actually started as I want this to be for the updated camera. Continuing this discussion is in part the fault of @KassaNovaKaine for bringing this up instead of just using a PM, and mine for wanting to correct it.
Been testing this update, and it is a vast improvement!
I had a chance so sift through the updated libs, etc., and have made a flashable zip with all the updated files.
This probably should have its own thread, but it doesn't make sense to create more clutter. @Heatshiver, if you don't mind, could you please update the title stating that this is the F320K11E Stock Camera + libs and remove the original download (as it was incomplete) to avoid any confusion. Actually, it would probably be a good idea to quote all of this as well so people don't have to read/search through the whole thread. I don't mind that you started it, as long as you field all the support questions
I have tested this on my VS98011A and it is a marked improvement over the original. All of my comments are in relation to that version of the software/camera.
What's new:
The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them.
Instructions:
1) Do a nandroid, or see which files are being updated and manually back them up.
2) See #1. If you mess something up you'll wish you had.
3) Flash away. I tested this with TWRP on a VS98011A and it works perfectly.
4) If you have another variant, let us know here whether or not it works.
F320K11E Camera Update
*I will also send the files along to Jishnu separately for inclusion/analysis in his mod.
So, loss of detail. For an example, have a look at this comparison. Less severe in larger sensors (IE. DSLRs) and more severe in smaller sensors, you know, what phones use. To what degree detail is lost depends on the severity of processing. Noise obscuring detail = detail loss. NR processing smoothing the image = more detail loss. Safe to say, higher ISO, more detail lost.
Saturation - essentially, color purity. I'm not referring to manipulation of saturation. A washed out image lacks saturation. Yes, it is moronic to equate saturation = quality. But, my personal preference doesn't enter into this at all. Is color information lost in an ISO 3200 image when compared an ISO 100 image? Yes. To what degree depends on the sensor and processing performed. Most dedicated cameras keep it fairly well in check, but phones tend to have serious issues with saturation at higher ISOs (also, Foveon sensors).
It does depend on the sensor pedigree, though - for instance, nikon's midrange APS-C sensors handle their noise a lot better than canon's 18mp-based offerings. So for phones to have different image quality is not unexpected.
Uh, JPG artifacting is way different than noise, and we were not even talking about compression in the first place?
Modes - don't care what the other ones are for, I was simply mentioning their presence. Don't ever use them on my real camera, but don't exactly have a choice in regards to phone. I was unable to get any sort of significant difference out of sports mode when I first tried it.... rest of the modes seem to be purely post processing related, for all I know LG made sports mode the same way. Later, checking EXIF info, I did see it changing shutter speed and ISO, favoring faster shutter speeds, which is the expected behavior, it's just not got much leeway for adjustment.
If ISO isn't already maxed (you know, like it is in low-light situations), yes, exposure control could be adjusting ISO too. But in the context of preview in low light, the exposure control directly affects the preview FPS, so it can only be adjusting shutter speed as ISO is already maxed. Would expect a similar effect on video but haven't tested it. Autofocus speed is directly linked to preview FPS, which is in turn limited by shutter speed (currently).
Hi there, I have been using Nexus 5 for the last couple of months, and even though I select 8mp on the camara setting, all pictures are taken at different size. Sometimes they are 2.1mb, sometimes 3, 4 or even 5 mb. And for the front facing camera they are normally 300kb to 450 kb.
I just want to understand why the difference in each picture, if it is a setting I can adjust, an issue or what is happening... I would like to take all pictures at best quality.
Thanks!
The reason is compression.
The best quality would be in raw format but each photo would be hundreds of MBs.
To combat this photos are compressed.
The reason your photos are different sizes is purely related to how well the image you have taken can compress.
Say for instance you took a picture of a solid red square. This would compress very well because there is relatively little info needed to recreate it.
Color=red in pixels 1,1 to 8096,8096 (I know this is impossible to have a perfect picture that only picks up the single colour but it's just an example)
Compare this say with a picture of multicolored sand that has many shades.
This would not compress as well because there is a lot of data that is needed to create the image.
Color=redshade1 in pixels 1,1 677,465 7357,3633 etc...
Color=blueshade1 in pixels 1,2 3757,995 357,3376 etc...
Etc...
Now I know this isn't exactly how photo compression works but it's just trying to show how even though you are capturing the image at the same resolution, the resulting file size can vary drastically.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
Yep. Even without compression, all RAW images are not the same size. The more complex the image, the bigger it will be
-----------------------
Sent via tapatalk.
I do NOT reply to support queries over PM. Please keep support queries to the Q&A section, so that others may benefit
Thanks for the Info! everyday you learn something new at this site...
Alex240188 said:
The reason is compression.
The best quality would be in raw format but each photo would be hundreds of MBs.
To combat this photos are compressed.
The reason your photos are different sizes is purely related to how well the image you have taken can compress.
Say for instance you took a picture of a solid red square. This would compress very well because there is relatively little info needed to recreate it.
Color=red in pixels 1,1 to 8096,8096 (I know this is impossible to have a perfect picture that only picks up the single colour but it's just an example)
Compare this say with a picture of multicolored sand that has many shades.
This would not compress as well because there is a lot of data that is needed to create the image.
Color=redshade1 in pixels 1,1 677,465 7357,3633 etc...
Color=blueshade1 in pixels 1,2 3757,995 357,3376 etc...
Etc...
Now I know this isn't exactly how photo compression works but it's just trying to show how even though you are capturing the image at the same resolution, the resulting file size can vary drastically.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse