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Firstly, my screen does not show visuals. I can still touch the screen and make things happen, but it is just a back-lighted black screen. I have answered calls on it and such. Basically I'm returning it and getting a new one.
Since I am getting a new one, I want to see if anyone ever heard of this problem and to see what the cause of it is, for prevention purposes.
I didn't get it wet (the white sticker in the back is still white.) Though I have flashed PROven ROM to it a couple months ago (it's a great ROM by the way), but could that have messed up my screen?
I also wanted to know since I can't see the screen, would I have to, for warranty purposes, (blindly) reflash to the Stock ROM?
Thanks in advance!
Yeah, you probably oughta return it to stock configuration (good luck on that!). If you're really lucky, that might even fix the problem. Have you done a hard reset yet? Might be worth a try, although it certainly sounds like a hardware problem.
Sounds like the flex cable has gone bad
Exactly same thing happened to me this Tuesday. Luckly I backed up info to memory card using PimBackupV2.8 with remote control software on my PC. With the remote contol tool, I could see everything as if on my phone and icons are clickable.
Hard reset did not fix the issue. I then flashed the shipped official ROM and stock SPL for warranty purpose. Will send the phone to them today for repair.
mine also like that..
from vodafone also..
the things that make me panics is the phone become hotter and hotter.
asdiqa said:
mine also like that..
from vodafone also..
the things that make me panics is the phone become hotter and hotter.
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Summer is coming...
Sometimes they make updating phones too easy......
The back of my phone often gets hot I have to use the edges to hold it even though it was not a hot day and it is in my pocket.
blank screen
ya so my screen is blank white
but everything else works
i've heard something about this being a faulty "flex cable"
how can i fix this?
thanks so much for your help
how do i fix this???
did you eventually find out how to fix this/???
u ever end up fixing that? how?
thankss
Mine was still in warranty so I rang Vodafone. They sent me a special delivery envelop the following day. I sent it back to them. The following day I got a text message from them saying they got it and was working on it to fix the fault. The next day received another message saying the device was on the way back to me and I should receive it the following day.
Actually they sent me back a replacement
So.. basically.. is this a faulty flex thing?
I had the same problem for the last week until today i was about to buy another one since i dont have any warranty for this one.. I searched google and saw somebody say that just putting a business card between the keyboard and the lcd and then slide it and it works so far
hope it helps everybody
Ack! my Fuze, which I got off eBay a few months back, just went black too.
I'm not exactly sure whether it's the LCD or the flex cable, but the fact that the D-pad backlight also has become intermittent makes me think it's the cable.
So has anyone attempted the flex cable repair themselves? I see you can buy the cable for around $40 and the LCD for around $80 from Hong Kong.
Maybe this is a sign I should just get an Android device.
eelpout said:
Ack! my Fuze, which I got off eBay a few months back, just went black too.
I'm not exactly sure whether it's the LCD or the flex cable, but the fact that the D-pad backlight also has become intermittent makes me think it's the cable.
So has anyone attempted the flex cable repair themselves? I see you can buy the cable for around $40 and the LCD for around $80 from Hong Kong.
Maybe this is a sign I should just get an Android device.
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Did you end up fixing it? I have the same problem.
same thing happened to me Twice.... in my sleep overnight. I LOOOOOOOOVe my raphael but man this was the last straw
This maybe of some help for those of you with blank screens. I bought a Touch Pro on ebay that had a very dark screen, occasionally you could just make out some icons being displayed. Using Mymobiler showed that the basic system was working, as was the touchscreen. Other symptoms were that the camera would not work and the keypad lighting was intermittent. Sometimes on connection to Mymobiler a dialog box would come up saying there was an error with Microp?!?
Despite cleaning all internal connections and ensuring they were correctly and securely made the problem remained. I then noticed that the small camera used for video calls (in a socket on the main flex cable) looked very dirty and corroded. I removed the camera module and, using a fibreglass brush, cleaned the contacts on both the socket and the camera module. These were very badly corroded with verdigris.
On putting everything back together I was most surprised to find the screen was now working, as was the main camera. Unfortunately the ROM that is loaded doesn't seem to have any facility for checking the front video camera. There are still problems with sound - both the loudspeaker and the headphones seem to be dead and I have not had the opportunity to test GPS, Wifi, bluetooth, buttons, etc, however I will keep working on it.
Hope this is of help to someone.
A few days ago, I shipped my TF300 to the user who bought the unit off me through ebay. Today, upon its arrival at its destination, I received a message from the buyer telling me the unit is dead.
Before I shipped the unit, I used the factory reset function to erase my data, and upon the tablet rebooting to the welcome screen, I powered it off. As far as I am aware, the unit worked perfectly fine up to the moment that I packed it in its box and sent it away. The buyer reports no visible damage to the box or the unit itself, so I doubt that the unit was damaged in transit.
According to the buyer, the dock I shipped with it works and charges fine, and was tested on an acquaintance's tablet, both with the charger I provided as well as said acquaintance's. However, regardless of which cable and charger was used, and whether the tablet was plugged in solo or through the dock, the tablet seems to not want to charge. No charge indicator light on the power button, no apparent change in status.
My question is mainly this: is it possible that the battery or tablet as a whole had an adverse reaction to the cold temperatures during shipping (I live in Toronto, the recipient lives in Ottawa)?
If so, and even if not, what can I do, or tell the buyer to do in order to rectify the situation? All the guides here, as well as other sites say to charge longer or say to do the 'hold the power button fox X seconds' dance until something happens, but if those don't work, what do I do?
DinosaurBrutus said:
A few days ago, I shipped my TF300 to the user who bought the unit off me through ebay. Today, upon its arrival at its destination, I received a message from the buyer telling me the unit is dead.
Before I shipped the unit, I used the factory reset function to erase my data, and upon the tablet rebooting to the welcome screen, I powered it off. As far as I am aware, the unit worked perfectly fine up to the moment that I packed it in its box and sent it away. The buyer reports no visible damage to the box or the unit itself, so I doubt that the unit was damaged in transit.
According to the buyer, the dock I shipped with it works and charges fine, and was tested on an acquaintance's tablet, both with the charger I provided as well as said acquaintance's. However, regardless of which cable and charger was used, and whether the tablet was plugged in solo or through the dock, the tablet seems to not want to charge. No charge indicator light on the power button, no apparent change in status.
My question is mainly this: is it possible that the battery or tablet as a whole had an adverse reaction to the cold temperatures during shipping (I live in Toronto, the recipient lives in Ottawa)?
If so, and even if not, what can I do, or tell the buyer to do in order to rectify the situation? All the guides here, as well as other sites say to charge longer or say to do the 'hold the power button fox X seconds' dance until something happens, but if those don't work, what do I do?
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Never heard that inside temperatures would do anything to the tab. It was fully charged when you mailed it, correct? Even if it gets drained somehow, it can always get the juice from the dock/keyboard. It's possible for the battery connector to come loose. However, for such thing to happen requires quite a shock which, under normal circumstances, would not fail on this model to shatter either the digitizer or lcd, or both.
Have you ever opened the tab? If yes, do you have a way of telling if anything has been tampered with? There's a warranty seal inside. If it's broken, someone has done something to it. If it's not, you can always resort to warranty. I doubt it's a software issue where the unit doesn't react at all to charging.
The power/volume assembly is separate from the mainboard, and connected thereto by means of a white cable. It consists of two brittle amber cables that tear easily. Additionally, If the mainboard crashed, no amount of holding will help. Lastly, if the tab has been opened, and the back cover has not been reassembled properly, the power button mounted on it will fail to switch the unit on. Correctly assembled will make the button click when you gently push on it. It's fragile too, so if you do it wrong and force it, you might break it. The charging light is conducted through a plastic reflector glued onto the power button. If you put it in the wrong way, you won't see the charging indicator.
In other words, there's no substitute for getting the unit back and do the inspection yourself, unless the buyer is somehow tech savvy. Sorry to hear.
graphdarnell said:
Never heard that inside temperatures would do anything to the tab. It was fully charged when you mailed it, correct? Even if it gets drained somehow, it can always get the juice from the dock/keyboard. It's possible for the battery connector to come loose. However, for such thing to happen requires quite a shock which, under normal circumstances, would not fail on this model to shatter either the digitizer or lcd, or both.
Have you ever opened the tab? If yes, do you have a way of telling if anything has been tampered with? There's a warranty seal inside. If it's broken, someone has done something to it. If it's not, you can always resort to warranty. I doubt it's a software issue where the unit doesn't react at all to charging.
The power/volume assembly is separate from the mainboard, and connected thereto by means of a white cable. It consists of two brittle amber cables that tear easily. Additionally, If the mainboard crashed, no amount of holding will help. Lastly, if the tab has been opened, and the back cover has not been reassembled properly, the power button mounted on it will fail to switch the unit on. Correctly assembled will make the button click when you gently push on it. It's fragile too, so if you do it wrong and force it, you might break it. The charging light is conducted through a plastic reflector glued onto the power button. If you put it in the wrong way, you won't see the charging indicator.
In other words, there's no substitute for getting the unit back and do the inspection yourself, unless the buyer is somehow tech savvy. Sorry to hear.
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First off, thank you for your detailed response.
In terms of the battery levels before shipping, it was at roughly 30%, if I recall correctly. I assumed that even with a full charge, the unit would likely be drained, or close to drained, after the trip and did not make an effort to charge it beforehand.
In terms of opening the unit, I never attempted it. As far as I was aware, the tablet was in completely functional condition inside and out, and in the six or so months that I had it I never encountered any hardware or software faults.
I forgot to mention in the OP that I no longer had all of the original packaging, and shipped the tablet connected to the dock, packed in with two soft tablet sleeves. The tablet/dock combo was slightly too large for the tablet box, so I had to put it in at an angle, with a soft sleeve filling the empty space above and below the tablet within the box to secure it (I made sure it was stable before I even left for the post office). The original box was the placed into a marginally larger box, with the cable, charger head, and a stylus placed into the empty space that was left after the tablet box was inside. I assumed, maybe mistakenly, that it would be able to survive the trip like that.
If something happened to the connector on the tablet, is there any way to fix it?
DinosaurBrutus said:
First off, thank you for your detailed response.
In terms of the battery levels before shipping, it was at roughly 30%, if I recall correctly. I assumed that even with a full charge, the unit would likely be drained, or close to drained, after the trip and did not make an effort to charge it beforehand.
In terms of opening the unit, I never attempted it. As far as I was aware, the tablet was in completely functional condition inside and out, and in the six or so months that I had it I never encountered any hardware or software faults.
I forgot to mention in the OP that I no longer had all of the original packaging, and shipped the tablet connected to the dock, packed in with two soft tablet sleeves. The tablet/dock combo was slightly too large for the tablet box, so I had to put it in at an angle, with a soft sleeve filling the empty space above and below the tablet within the box to secure it (I made sure it was stable before I even left for the post office). The original box was the placed into a marginally larger box, with the cable, charger head, and a stylus placed into the empty space that was left after the tablet box was inside. I assumed, maybe mistakenly, that it would be able to survive the trip like that.
If something happened to the connector on the tablet, is there any way to fix it?
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IMO, only excessive brute force would damage the battery connector. If it is, resoldering the thing is a pain, not to mention the impossibility of getting a new one. But you don't want to get into that part just yet as it involves breaking the seal. You want to get the unit back for inspection first. If the seal is broken, there's a chance the motherboard has been worked on. If it's not, then send it to Asus while you can. A bad motherboard will cost you more than you think. I don't want to implicate foul play, but it's not like it has never happened before.
graphdarnell said:
IMO, only excessive brute force would damage the battery connector. If it is, resoldering the thing is a pain, not to mention the impossibility of getting a new one. But you don't want to get into that part just yet as it involves breaking the seal. You want to get the unit back for inspection first. If the seal is broken, there's a chance the motherboard has been worked on. If it's not, then send it to Asus while you can. A bad motherboard will cost you more than you think. I don't want to implicate foul play, but it's not like it has never happened before.
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After considering what you mentioned in your previous post, I was starting to think that there may have been some poor handling on the buyer's behalf, and if not him, then definitely Canada Post. I am absolutely use I did nothing to damage the tablet before I shipped it, and made sure to pack it in a way that would ensure a safe transit from my residence to the buyer's residence.
I think I am going to ask for pictures of the tablet connector to see if there is any obvious damage. These tablets, while still fragile, are not made of tissue paper, so if there was damage on part of the seller, I should be able to see it.
Also, how would one go about checking if the seal on the tablet had been broken?
DinosaurBrutus said:
After considering what you mentioned in your previous post, I was starting to think that there may have been some poor handling on the buyer's behalf, and if not him, then definitely Canada Post. I am absolutely use I did nothing to damage the tablet before I shipped it, and made sure to pack it in a way that would ensure a safe transit from my residence to the buyer's residence.
I think I am going to ask for pictures of the tablet connector to see if there is any obvious damage. These tablets, while still fragile, are not made of tissue paper, so if there was damage on part of the seller, I should be able to see it.
Also, how would one go about checking if the seal on the tablet had been broken?
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I wouldn't trust the buyer to do anything at this point. Then again, it's your call. Go to this THREAD for reference. In order to see the seal, you have to remove the back cover. If you don't know what you're doing, you might scratch or even crack the digitizer. If the buyer is committed to buying the piece, s/he wouldn't shy away from the transferable warranty, no matter who claims it.
Title explains all. I'm in a tight bind with money too..
I want to believe I can just reflash stock via odin and it will come back. Or is there something else I can do to make this work?
It sense touch 10% of the time, but it's never enough to unlock my phone or do anything with it.
Edit: the new screen worked perfectly before I did the operation. Don't know what went wrong. I didn't scratch or bend anything to my knowledge. The process took about 10 minutes and went really smooth.
kanzenmuketsu said:
Title explains all. I'm in a tight bind with money too..
I want to believe I can just reflash stock via odin and it will come back. Or is there something else I can do to make this work?
It sense touch 10% of the time, but it's never enough to unlock my phone or do anything with it.
Edit: the new screen worked perfectly before I did the operation. Don't know what went wrong. I didn't scratch or bend anything to my knowledge. The process took about 10 minutes and went really smooth.
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Hello, I repair cellphones for a living. And it depends on a lot of things. My guesses are three things. From most likely to least likely.
1. You said that everything was working fine before you changed ROMS, it could be an incompatibly issue between the screen and the software. A lot of aftermarket screens are mostly compatible with stock, a lot have compatibility with custom ROM. It could be an issue solely on the software and not related to the screen.
2. There isn't a solid connection on the LCD connector, that usually happens with during installation, sometimes if the device is set down hard or dropped knocking the connection loose.
3. It's a defective screen. It happens sometimes. It's not uncommon for a screen to appear fine but after a few hours it acts up. It could have just been a coincidence that you noticed or went defective when you flashed (not saying flashing is responsible for this scenario).
Flash back to stock and then you'll have a great chance of to see which out of the 3 are responsible. Cheers.
I repair iphones, android devices, laptops, ect.
Sent from SM-G900Pkltespr
There are only 2 flex cables on the S5 LCD. Make sure the primary (top flex) is seated correctly, then the easiest thing to check before taking the screen back off is the flex under the battery cover. You will see a little screw near the lower right of the battery with a little cover. Pull up that cover while the battery is out and make sure that cable is seated correctly. If both flex cables are seated correctly then it can only be 1 of 2 things IMHO, the screen you purchased is defective or you bent some pins on the mobo where the flex cables attach. I don't think it's a rom issue.
Hello together,
I have a Z5 (6653) that didn't start anymore and got extremely hot while charging. To be more clear: after connecting the phone to the charger the red LED turned on, then after about 10 seconds later it turned off again. From this moment on the phone's back started to get extremely hot. The source of the heat is about 1cm right and 1 cm down to the back camera (so you can say 1cm diagonal from the camera to the phone middle). Because of this I doubt it has to do with the battery as it should heat the lower two-third and not the upper third of the phone. Maybe the processor is at this place?
I tried to connect the phone in flash mode with the PC and it connected, but disconnected after a few seconds, probably because battery was empty. I repeated this procedure (connecting to charger, disconnecting, reconnecting, connecting to PC) a few days and suddenly the red LED kept on and the phone didn't get hot anymore.
So I charged the phone fully and wanted to start it, but the screen won't turn on anymore. Connecting it to the PC and the Phone drive (MTP) is displayed but empty, because you need to unlock screen. Also I hear the connecting sound of the phone and touch feedback sounds.
I tried the following things:
Xperia Companion Repair
Flashtool flashing newest ROM
Flashtool downgrading to 32.0.A.6.152_R5B (LP ROM)
Nothing helped. Well, the idea it is an hardware issue might be at hand, but maybe there is something else I can try first?
And if it is an Hardware issue, what is the cause? The Display itself? Then why was a single point at the phone back the source of heat and not a large area on the phone front?
A short summary:
Phone gets hot while connected to charger
Battery won't charge (LED indicator turns off after few seconds)
Source of heat is 1cm to the right and down to the back camera; after 2 minutes whole phone is hot and you can't recognize the source
After days of repeating the action (connect to charger, disconnect, connect to PC, connect to charger) it suddenly charged the battery and didn't get hot anymore
Display won't start anymore; still responsive
Tried Xperia Companion Software repair
flashed latest Stock ROM
flashed Lollipop Stock ROM
Phone has locked bootloader and is/was not rooted. I'm grateful for all help!
I guess its a dead screen maybe u droped it and the pins of the screens got ejected from the motherboard.. Ignoring the fact that it was empty of charge and you charged it.
From what i understand that the phone is working but there is no screen.
The best thing u can do is to check a hardware store that is capable of diagnosing the issue.
Im not helping here i know but wanted to share my thoughts..
Gd luck with that.
Thanks for this anyway. But phone didn't drop.
The fact that the phone wasn't charging and got hot instead at the beginning is very irritating. Especially that it wasn't the front but a point at the back near the camera. Is there a way to check if it's a Display issue and not a Mainboard/Processor/other Chip issue?
At least in Germany are a lot of stores that aren't too competent at all. But nobody would tell you, so its very helpful to know as much as possible before going to a store.
I think it might have something to do with the gpu inside the soc? The heat might have burned something inside the mainboard (how hot was it btw, like running intensive apps or even hotter than that?) Another thing that might have happened is the display cable is loose.
I've seen some Z5's screens and they're not that easy to die.
The best thing I can suggest is that you repair it in a trusted shop that lets you observe the repair procedure directly (open the phone, take the parts out, identify the problem).
Good luck with your phone.
colorado48 said:
I think it might have something to do with the gpu inside the soc? The heat might have burned something inside the mainboard (how hot was it btw, like running intensive apps or even hotter than that?) Another thing that might have happened is the display cable is loose.
I've seen some Z5's screens and they're not that easy to die.
The best thing I can suggest is that you repair it in a trusted shop that lets you observe the repair procedure directly (open the phone, take the parts out, identify the problem).
Good luck with your phone.
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I never played any game so it is hard to compare, but I never had a phone in my hands that got this hot before. You didn't get instantly burned touching the phone but it was already inconvenient hot for your fingers/hand.
There might be some trust able stores to find, but I doubt somebody will let you observe it, not even Apple store does. If you see the trick of how to repair it easy and fast, you might do it yourself next time. And it is also a question of the price. If I can buy a used but totally unharmed Z5 for the same price, why should I let it repair?
As far as I could see in Germany repairing Display starts at 99€ for the Z5. Buying display with adhesive would start at 49€. But if they change the Display and it's still broken you have to pay for the Display and also for the mainboard i.e.
So I was using my Photon Q as usual, had a sick new CM11 install I was playing with for the last week or so, and all was good. I pulled it out of my pocket before I took a shower to check the time and nothing. The keyboard would open when slid out, and it even buzzed when i force restarted it. The backlight turns on for a few seconds when turning it on but other than that, no dice, it turns right off. HDMI out is doing nothing either. It is detected by my computer and otherwise acts like everything is normal. I didn't drop it, it was just in my pocket and a little warm, but it was really just the usual "pocket" warmth. What the **** happened? I can't even tear it open to check because one of the inner screws is stripped : (
EDIT: Can't boot into fastboot or anything manually, connections look good, this is so annoyingly random, and this is the first motorola device to just fail on me without reason...
EDIT EDIT: Died in my drawer last night, plugged it in and the green LED turned on, but shortly after it turned off and and now I am back to exactly where I was before.
Answer: So As you can see from the replies below I am most likely dealing with a broken flex cable to the front panel. I am gonna save up for an un-modded replacement and just swap motherboards. I gutted my current Photon Q and am storing all the parts in bubble wrap, with the motherboard delicately wrapped in paper (less friction, it's sim modded and those exposed copper wires just seem so fragile)
@CornholioGSM I ping you because you are the main Photon Q guys and one of the few still really active, you have seen this phone inside out, any ideas???
EDIT: I checked all the connection after tearing away plastic, it's all good looking. I don't understand wtf happened...
It's usually an issue with the flex (ribbon) cable... all I can say is make very sure that cable is still properly connected.
Good luck.
One of my Photons had a dead display while another had an apparently dead display because the broken flat cable.
Hard to say which one is the culprit w/o a close visual inspection to the flat cable, and even in that case a flat cable apparently in good shape can have one or more broken lines.
BTW a LCD panel can theoretically last for decades, while the cable has a finite number of sliding operations, so the latter is more likely to be the culprit.
Possibly your best option is to get a cheap unmodded PQ from the USA, and replace the whole screen assembly w/o further investigations. Less risk to damage something, way less time needed for the transplant, and possibly even the cheaper option.
The Solutor said:
One of my Photons had a dead display while another had an apparently dead display because the broken flat cable.
Hard to say which one is the culprit w/o a close visual inspection to the flat cable, and even in that case a flat cable apparently in good shape can have one or more broken lines.
BTW a LCD panel can theoretically last for decades, while the cable has a finite number of sliding operations, so the latter is more likely to be the culprit.
Possibly your best option is to get a cheap unmodded PQ from the USA, and replace the whole screen assembly w/o further investigations. Less risk to damage something, way less time needed for the transplant, and possibly even the cheaper option.
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Thanks, I'll probably use whatever money I get from my Nexus 5 sale for a replacement Photon Q (un modded). Mine is beat up from a recent camping trip, scratches all over, I need this anyway. Worst case I have myself a sweet new music player. For now I am using a Galaxy Nexus, which I love, but I miss the Sailfish OS support.