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HTC Apache Audiovox PPC6700 LCD / Digitizer Replacement Instructions

All I have right now is this from someone online who said he had the instructions. If anyone has clear outlined pictures to do this, please post it.
Thank you!
"There are additional screws that need to be taken out. You have to pop off the housing on the top that covers the camera and the antenna port. there will be at least 2 more screws there. Then you will carefully have to pop off the back starting at the bottom by where the stylus is and pull that off. There is probably going to be another screw holding the board in place. It has been a few months since i have done this. Then the board comes out and you have 4 more screws these are phillips heads. That will take the back housing off of the front. Then 4 more screws to take the back plate off of the front housing."

Places i've tried to find LCD Digitizer replacement instructions for cracked LCD
The Audiovox PPC-6700 I have has a cracked screen. I got an LCD replacement, but have no detailed instructions on removing the cracked screen. Here are some useful places i've looked at to find the answer to this issue if it helps you:
http://forum.xda-developers.com ... of course why else would I post it here
http://buzzdev.net/component/option...tart,0/index.php?option=com_phorum&Itemid=125
http://forum.brighthand.com
http://www.mobiletechreview.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php

Not the best...but better than nothing....
Here are my own instructions I started... maybe someone else can expand/refine/clean this up. I'm done with this finally. Changing this is possible, but not necessarily easy. There's this tinny like sticker on the OEM LCD in the phone that's a real pain to pull off of the LCD. The pictures are terrible too...sorry...again..something= better than nothing.
In the end, it works...everything except my toggle does not click in like it used to...that's probably because of that rubber piece I did not know about. (A rubber piece fell out when I was taking it apart and I never figured out where it was supposed to go..so if anyone knows where that belongs and how it should be oriented..please post it.)
I took the stylus out.
I took the miniSD plastic blank out/ or miniSD memory card out just in case.
I took the battery cover off.
I took the battery out.
I set the camera lens in between the picture of the flower and the sun in the back.
I took the rubber piece out..there's a little probe looking thing behind it. (Probably was not necessary to take out.)
I took the back camera cover off. (Remove two Philips head screws with a PH0 head.) There are 7 notches holding it in place. [One above sun/flower adjuster, one slightly to the right above the flash hole, one above the rubber piece, one a tiny bit below the rubber piece, 2 on the insides at the bottom of the philips head screws, and one to the right of the speakerphone.]
I took the green circuit board that has camera flash behind the camera cover off. (Pops up off slot after removing one philips head screw.)
I took the camera unit off. (Do not pull up on camera, just pull the green board up off. The camera is sitting there, the board is wired like the camera flash board was plugged in, just pop it off.)
I took the cell phone antenna philips head screw off that is above where the camera was.
I took the 4 torx .050 allen head type size screws out to remove the back plastic cover of the phone off. Be very careful prying this portion apart. There are probably about 14 notches maybe that holds the back plate on. Some say to start trying to pry it apart from the antenna, but I was able to pry it apart from the bottom part of the phone on the antenna side... not where the antenna is. Be extremely careful how you pry this apart. You have to watch out for the speakerphone wires, there is a plug for what I think might be the keyboard and or LCD, the vibrating weight, and the main board itself... you don't want to scratch or sever any of these parts.
I slid the antenna off of the main board. Lift the board and gently pull up and out the black antenna.
I did not take the speakerphone off, but it looks like you have to pull the wire from the board that would still be attached to the back plate. The vibrating weight is also on the backplate.
I took the main board out of the phone. Keep the slider in mind between the IE button and the recorder button on the side of the phone. The black portion on the main board needs to line up with the actual switch you would slide up or down with your thumb on the side of the phone. When pulling the main board out, slide open the keyboard fully/halfway. Watch for a black rubber piece.
I removed the 4 philips head screws that hold the keyboard portion of the phone to the LCD portion of the phone together and lifted them apart. There is a silver/grey tape that you need to pop up the data cable and pull the tape off to completely separate the LCD portion.
I removed the 4 torx screws from behind the LCD screen and carefully took the LCD portion apart.
...ok well it's getting quite annoying to try and write everything I did after this, but it's pretty self explanatory. If it's not, you probably should not be changing your LCD in the first place anyhow. In order to release the LCD ribbon, the plastic piece at the end will need to pop up at an angle..it's kind of like a winch.
Here's a similar phone that gets taken apart if that helps you out in any way.
.........http://www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf
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re
what is the toggle you are refering to? i took mine apart to clean around the screen without any instructions, and everything still works, but the digitizer has had it, where did you get your replacement from?

I got my replacement from eBay. goldelec
The LCD had a weird rainbow thing going on in the center of it, that you can see if you look at it at the right angle and the bottom corner looks bright white when the screen is on for an extensive period of time. Again, it works...better than what I had. I did not get great instructions, but what he sold me worked fine.
The toggle i'm talking about is the button in between the call and hangup buttons on the front face of the phone. That toggle switch just does not seem connected or stiff like it used to be. I can't "click" up/down/left/right or select anything. I am convinced the rubber piece goes behind it somewhere somehow. I just have to take it apart and figure out the orientation of it.

thanks for these pics & instructions, I just replaced with a part from goldelec on ebay as well (though the auction list instructions as part of the deal, they didn't come with my shipment, so your play-by-play was invaluable)...and there's no screws left afterward! Always a good sign.

Maybe this will help some people...
http://wiki.ppcgeeks.com/index.php?title=How_To:Disassemble_your_6700

lcd replacement instructions
www.htclcd.com has a lot of good lcd replacement instructions also
as well as the LCD's

I just took apart two 6700's today (had to replace the buttons on the face and the circuit board underneath so for now I scavenged the parts from my backup phone)
anyway the phone is surprisingly easy to take apart and surprisingly straight forward.
You do not even have to organize the screws as there is ONLY 2 kinds (I like that) and its obvious when to use each as they are very different in size.
a straight head will take out the star bits if your careful (if you have one of those many different jewlers drivers kits you will find one that fits just fine)
OK cover card stylus battery out.
4 screws. 2 dark large at the bottom 2 small silver at the top of the battery cavity (the one on the top right is hidden underneath a small white sticker)
Now the "top" plastic section comes apart. (the area with the camera) make sure the camera switch is ALL THE WAY one way first it will make things easier later.
Lift from the bottom LEFT there is a tab under the black antennae casing and a tab on the right next to the speaker. Pry gently and it will "pop free" don't YANK as the speaker is attached still.
Pop the speaker out (leave it attached no reason to mess with that wee connector.)
Remove the single screw from the center of those board. NOW caution there is a square white soft "seal" around the led do not lose it.
finger tail "pop" the boards out.
Camera module same thing finger nail "pop" the module pops out but those asside.
3 more larger dark screws remove them now.
Now you need to remove the back half the the shell. Lift with force till you have a small opening and start poking at the hold downs till you can work it free. the hang point is again the black antennae housing. This was the most difficult part to remove and it was not that hard. Use care so it will look clean when you put it back together if thats important to you.
Now you see the mother board. one single screw is left silver middle right side (away from antennae)
Time to remove the main board. you need to use CARE here as its "catched" on opposing side (the usb port and ear piece ports) and the Black antenna housing.) and also atached via a short ribbon cable.
Once you have it free SLIDE out the keyboard this will give you a lot more slack to lift up the main board and tilt it sideways.
Peel the tape carefully once its free it will "pop" free using the same style connector as the camera board etc.. used.
remove and put asside.
now remove the 4 screws holding the keyboard to the phone. its free put asside (those are the only 4 that are different just LEAVE them in there holes they will stay if you don't toss it around)
now remove the 4 black screws holding the back of the keyboard housing down. Pop it free (its not hard there are poke holes made for this like flat screwdriver slots)
once you do this the ribbon will slide through the opening no worries.
now act like your breaking a glow stick and "bend" the case sides so the screen can be popped up a little.
lift the orange tape and you will see a different kind of rubbon connector. its white with a tiny black flap. use a finger nail and lift it will ROTATE 90's to vertical. the ribbon cable will now pop free.
now remove the 2 screws holding down the circuit board. remove it and the button pad (this is why you had to lift the screen a little or these won't come out.
Thats it. I did not go further than this but I do not remember it "looking" like it would be hard at all to get the screen and digitizer out.
This is all straight from memory so read ALL this first and adapt as you progress. DO not take it verbatum.
If something does not want to give ASSUME you forgot a screw and be extra diligent to find it before attempting to increase the amount of force you use though sometimes it just "needs" a wee more force.
Good Luck
I should have taken pics which I usually do when I do this again I will take detailed pics.
Ohh dolt reassembly
do everything in reverse. thats it. here are some tips for the tricky spots.
Reinserting the button pad ribbon. IE reconnect the ribbon BEFORE you put it in. its a lot easier. make sure its in all the way push the flap back down push the tape back down. Easy
Rescrewing the keyboard into the main shell. Get it roughly lined up and LOOK INSIDE one of the holes as you wiggle it around. you will see the screw hole quite clearly when it appears. insert and screw down. Do one on the other side easy as pie.
When you put the main board back in you need to make sure the VOLUME slide switch is in the MIDDLE neutral position so it it lines up with the volume slider itself IE it has to move BOTH direction misalign this and it will be jammed one way or the other. Pop it apart and try again.
When you put the final cover back on make sure the SWITCH for the camera is in the same direction as the plastic lever (the actual switch) so that they line up when you snap them together.
thats it. Really not that hard.

Microphone replacement question.

Hi, my phone mic has stop working no one can hear me.
any one know´s what is the mic replacement for the tornado 2125??
hope any can help me.
thanks.

Strange - already the second with Mic problems for the devices that I watch (all the old ones: Typhoon, Hurricane, Tornado, Excalibur and Vox). It seems that some are offering replacement MICs on ebay, but the more problematic part is to unsolder the old one and re-solder the new on the PBA.
Check first if it is really the MIC and not another problem in the radio part. Try to record a note or a voice tag to see if the MIC is working. Also check if the Headset would work to record.

The mic works ramdom, voice recoder sometimes record the sound other not the radio version is 4.1.13.28_02.61.01 try whit lot of rom´s and the same.
headset is lost but i will try when i found it :S
if you can provide me a newest radio it will very appreciate that.
thanks.

You already have the latest Radio - there is nothing newer for the Tornado. Changing SW will not help if the HW has a problem - and as the recording sometimes works and sometimes not - seems you have a HW problem :-(

Love my phone, but is old know that!
can you help me giving me the correct mic reference?
i will try to fix replacing the bad mic for a new one.
thanks.

See this thread. Search ebay for "microphone dash".
I don't know how you would be able to remove the old mic and resolder the new one. I would not dare doing this. Best option is to open the device (careful! - don't rip off the keyboard cable) - seach for descriptions how to do it - and then clean the PBA from dirt that may have accumulated there.
Edit: all identically looking HTC microphones should work. There is no reason for HTC to have different MIC in the same shape. I found the following item-ids matching on ebay:
310238895928
180534133999
400143006229
400141063057
190419550974
190420686600
110371836182
190429433138
190428972283
180534132679

Mic just work again xD no more problem whit that.
now the Ring Speaker stop working only work´s sometimes and sound rare :S
what is the replacement for that speaker??'
thanks for all.

What did you do to make the microphone work again?
The ring speaker hardly ever breaks, but it is the same for Typhoon, Hurricane and Tornado. It is more probable that dirt has accumulated on the speakers membrane and/or that the contacts to the PBA are not working properly.
If you had already disassembled the device you can take care of both. Check the contacts on speaker and PBA first, as removing and cleaning the speaker is more delicate to do.To remove the speaker from the middle frame you have
to disassemble the device (several manuals available around the net) to its main parts:
Front cover with LCD and PBA
middle frame (with ring speaker, camera and buzzer)
then remove the 3 black screws from the black plastic cover,
now carefully lever up the camera which is glued to the frame with a small double adhesive ring around the lens from inside (really delicate if you don't want to break it!). You could possibly skip that step, but then the next step will require you to bend the flex cable from the camera very much. Never bent it much on my devices, so I cannot tell if that would not break the camera either.
carefully lever between the black cover and the frame (small adhesive frame around the edge) and step by step pull it up to finally remove it. Take care not to rip too fast as you need the adhesive later to keep it stuck well to not vibrate and distort the sound.
now you can access the speaker which should lift up together with the black plastic cover. The speaker is glued with double adhesive tape to that frame - again care to to lift it up.
good luck!

I conected the hands free, to the cellphone and it´s worked again.
i disassemly the phone clean whit isopropyl alcohol and nothing.
only the ringer speaker works somethimes so i thinks is faulty and sound like weird
try to change for another ringer.
thanks for you help!

Ah, that is interesting The 3.rd ring on the plug (the one you do not have on normal plugs) is for the external microphone and shortcut to grounds acts as pickup/hangup button. So it seems that some dirt in the socket has created confusion regarding the microphone?!
To my experience the switch that toggles headset/normal also steers the use of the external/internal microphone. Consequently you should have noticed also the sound disappear (when going to "headset" mode).
When you disassembled the device already, look at the rear part of the headset socket. You see at the left side a gold contact that is normally closed and that opens when you insert a plug. The closed contact must be well connecting or otherwise you are stuck in headset mode. When open (plug inserted) use a wooden toothpick + alcohol to clean the surfaces. Depending on the place where you keep your phone when carrying, the socket eats grid and dust that accumulates at the rear part - so keep the socket clean.

Spv c600 disassembly

does anybody know how to disassemble a spv c600 since i want to replace a cover

Look up the web for similar device disassembly (Qtek 8200 has a simliar housing). Basically they are all made the same. Rough sequence is:
remove battery cover
loosen all visible screws (2 at the bottom + 2 under the battery, 1 of them is under the warranty sticker) - you need Torx T6
Flip up the antenna/Cover. This depends on the device-type how it is locked, but you must for any device start lifting at the bottom/back side - you will not succeed on the topside. For some (SDA-USA) you have to lift the sides from the device- for others (O2 XDA Phone, Qtek 8200) there are little holes in the frame part towards the battery. You must lift the locks at the right place. If you take a very small flat screwdriver, just insert carfeully (about 1 cm) and lift up - using the screw driver as a lever. Once both sides are up, you can lift it completely and remove it.
2 more screws are on top of the device - remove them.
insert a credit card or something alike between frame and top cover, usually at the side buttons it is the easiest. Don't insert that too deep (1-2mm) and slide it along the side until all locks are open. Be careful at the bottom right side (looking on the face) as there goes the keyboard cable - don't hurt that!
Once cover is loose, start flipping away from the topside until a gap of about 8 mm (keep the bottom where it is). Peek inside from the top:
You see a flat connector from the camera to the PBA. Flip it up with a screwdriver.
Separate Frontside (it has the LCD and PBA connected) and frame (with camera) carefully. Take care at bottom of the device as the connectors on the PBA are inserted in the frame.
Done
Rest is easy as there is nothing hidden. For Keyboard removal you need a small PH00 cross screwdriver.

can i get guide with pictures.ive searched on google for hours but i havent found any .i really dont want anything to go wrong

Michaelbukachi said:
does anybody know how to disassemble a spv c600 since i want to replace a cover
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you look at http://www.modaco.com/content/torna...co-com/241033/i-mate-sp5-tornado-disassembly/
or try look from http://cellphonerepairtutorials.blogspot.com/search/label/HTC Service Manual

[Q] soldering new sim card tray. Which sim tray do I purchase?

First off this Xoom is out of warranty. All ready called motorola to try and get the part number, but they are going to replace the whole board which would cost a lot out of warranty.
Well I put my micro sim card adapter into the xoom (with out the sim card in it) and when I pulled it out, it broke off two of the pins in the sim card tray inside the xoom.
So I took the thing apart and bent the pins up and it works great, except that anytime I want to pull it back out, I have to wedge a thin piece of plastic in there to try and slip it out, and it is a pain.
So I have great soldering skills, and I'm confident I can do it my self, but I need to get the correct sim card tray.
The best one I could find is the JAE SF8 and the SF9 series:
comparison chart: I cant use hyperlinks so see attached picture "JAE"
Does any one know which one will work?

Here are some more pictures of the Xoom and the solder points and the pins I broke.

fixed
I decided to just fix this thing with spare parts.
I found an old R/C car wire with some metal on the end, I broke it off and shaped the metal to the desired size and thickness. It was already bent but I could have done that easily as well.
Then I took the xoom apart with some websites, and also a few videos on youtube that showed me how to get some of the ribbons off with out damaging them.
Then I de-soldered the case, bent it back, and soldered on my new pieces. Put everything back and it works perfectly.
Hopefully this helps someone else, or maybe you can take it in to a small electronic repair shop and they should be able to do this. My soldering skills are not that good, so they could do a MUCH better and more professional looking job.

legobrains said:
I decided to just fix this thing with spare parts.
I found an old R/C car wire with some metal on the end, I broke it off and shaped the metal to the desired size and thickness. It was already bent but I could have done that easily as well.
Then I took the xoom apart with some websites, and also a few videos on youtube that showed me how to get some of the ribbons off with out damaging them.
Then I de-soldered the case, bent it back, and soldered on my new pieces. Put everything back and it works perfectly.
Hopefully this helps someone else, or maybe you can take it in to a small electronic repair shop and they should be able to do this. My soldering skills are not that good, so they could do a MUCH better and more professional looking job.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would you be willing to help me fix mine for a fee? I also damaged my sim connector.

[Q] Motherboard replacement help

Anyone have a guide or tips on replacing the motherboard. My tablet bricked while updating to 10.6.1.8 and is stuck in the Asus splash screen. I've seen to utube vid on the screen replacement but can not seem to find a motherboard how to. It seems to motherboard must be removed during the screen replacement. Will I need paste? Is the large copper heat sink cover glued on? Any advise would be great.

Tabbajit said:
Anyone have a guide or tips on replacing the motherboard. My tablet bricked while updating to 10.6.1.8 and is stuck in the Asus splash screen. I've seen to utube vid on the screen replacement but can not seem to find a motherboard how to. It seems to motherboard must be removed during the screen replacement. Will I need paste? Is the large copper heat sink cover glued on? Any advise would be great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The copper pad has glue where the processor and the rams are. Some might have glue at the far left and right side. But you can lift it off (you will break the warranty seal in the process). If you're replacing the motherboard, you need to:
A. Disconnect (1) the battery (connector located underneath the copper pad); (2) charging cable (flat amber); (3) touchscreen cable (flat white or silver, sometimes covered with black tape); (4) lcd screen cable (strand of multi-colored wires taped down to the battery); (5) remove the small amber cable connecting the power switch to the MB; and (6) disconnect the speakers connector from the MB.
B. Remove all the tiny screws in plain sight holding the MB to the magnesium frame.
C. Lift the cameras off their slots with something non-metal, like a toothpick.
D. Lift the MB just a bit to make sure it's loose, then SLIDE it out to the left, paying particular attention to the power button module (small amber ribbon assembly at the top right corner). If you pull it straight up, you will rip it.
Reassembly is just the reverse. Be sure to connect the battery last, just before reinstalling the copper pad. Good luck. Go to this thread for pics.

Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?

Tabbajit said:
Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently, the copper pad is smeared with some heat-conducting adhesive at contact points with the processor and ram chips. Some people would just stick it back. It didn't hold as well the second time though, in my experience. I cleaned off the sticky stuff, used Arctic Silver 5 on both components, and stuck some copper tape around the pad's edge. Just personal preferences.

Tabbajit said:
Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't think it is necessary...

so there are 2 cables I am not able to disconnect. one is the larger longer cooper ribbon that connects to the charging\docking port. the other has a similar connection. it is under black tape and is between the mico hdmi output and a multi color ribbon. I was able to get the other ones disconnected. Please help. Trying to take my time but I am getting frustrated and worried I am going to break something
EDIT- I figured it out. The black part behind the tan connection part is tinny but flips up. I got it disconnected. That was easier than I though!