Hi all,
As i started servicing all pdas for a couple of monthes (only as a hobby, i fix them for friends and relatives), i came across one BA that gave me some trouble.
i got it to replace its LCD that was broken as it was dropped and thats very simple to replace it, so far so good. now it has two main problems :
1. no sound from speaker (even when in speakerphone mode), but there is sound in the stereo earphones (i plugged to the connector by the sd card slot). - i can only assume that a bluetooth handsfree device it will also work.
2. although the backup battery is fully charged, if i remove the main battery even for a brief second, when turned on, the BA acts as if i made a hard reset.
as for solving the problems :
1. using a digital multimeter, i managed to track the conductivity from the internal speaker through its connector, flat ribbon to the connector which connects to the main pcb - so there is no contact problem from the speaker to the main pcb.
using the help from WIKI, i went to site that has the list of all components and their description - the IC that is responsible for audio amp is a MAXIM's MAX4410 which is a stereo headphone driver. a quick look at its charasteristics and typical configuration and i understood that (assuming this is the IC that drives the internal speaker) the speaker should have one pin which is ground and the other goes to the amplified signal from the IC. neither one of the pins showed it has GND to it. so maybe there is a bad GND line to the connector.
2. regarding the backup battery issue i do not know what makes this problem.
I am sharing this info with you all with two ideas in mind :
1. to resolve my problem and know those devices hardware better.
2. because i am quite a while watching xda-developers and WIKI and i got the feeling that a lot of eforth is given to the software side of all those pdas (which is greate!!! keep going, this work helps lots of people and it shows al thos mega corps they are not the only ones), but the hardware is a bit forgotten and left behind. let me tell you this, there are many VERY simple mini projects i made useing electronics (i am an electronics engineer in my profession) that made my life easy . i am now investigating those instruments hardware as i have several ideas to develope useful accessories to my pda (like an external IR transciver to control IR devices like TV,DVD and to communicate with my laptop, and some other ideas) and i believe we can do the same info sharing as done on software side but on the hardware side.
I will thank any ideas, thoghts or commentsabout this matter. Yol.
Great job Yol!
I once read somewhere here that the problem with the speaker had something to do with the headset jack. Since you mentioned that the BA was dropped and that it still is experiencing battery and other problems, then most probably the motherboard is damaged.
In any case, keep up the good work!
hints....
Thanks zerimar, i also had this cross my mind i will check this speaker issue.
it is right that usualy, headphones jacks have a switch in them which connect/disconnect a main speaker from the system.
regarding the backup battery, i noticed an interesting thing - if i leave the main battery connected untill it is fully discharged, the backup battery stays fully charged and does not discharg !! it leads me to think that the backup battery is connected with two sets of transistors - one charges it and the other is responsible of supplying it power to the system - may be the second set is damaged and thus do not back up the instrument.
That's the same thing with the Magicians (at least with mine). As soon as the main battery is taken out, the backup battery discharges very fast.
There was a thread about this long time ago. I'll try to search when I have the time, coz if I remember there was some workaround.
Related
Hello, after a lot of research, this is what i came up with, and it works perfectly !!
(Hint! Look here: http://wiki.xda-developers.com/wiki/Connectors )
Regards, Per
Zapro.dk
Lets see some picture of your settup
It's coming folks !
Yes-Yes it's coming!
I'm taking some pictures of it later this day. BTW it's a modified SonyEricsson-holder, just like ID64's setup
I'll be back !!
// Per
Shown'setup works fine for the XDA 1 (pin 2 and 5 worked for me more than a year)
I don't see the difference, the part on the pins 18 up to 22 i really don't undertand, does hat make the difference ??
Pins 18 up to 22 ?
The pins from 18 up to 22 is for the power, so my phone can charge in the holder.... i'm taking some pictures here a little later so you can see my setup.
P.S. Pin 19 does, when connected to GND, make the XDA disconnect internal Speaker/Microphone and use the external sound - as you can read on the connectors-site.
Re: Pins 18 up to 22 ?
zapro said:
The pins from 18 up to 22 is for the power, so my phone can charge in the holder.... i'm taking some pictures here a little later so you can see my setup.
P.S. Pin 19 does, when connected to GND, make the XDA disconnect internal Speaker/Microphone and use the external sound - as you can read on the connectors-site.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know, i didn't have to use it on the XDA 1. On the MDA it didn't even work with pin19 grounded, not Navigation or MP3 sound at least...
I cant get Phone trough BT, with less hassle
pin 19 only turns off the internal microphone and speaker during a call. So ir wont work for navigation mp3 etc
Cheers
Justinp
From what i understand, JP2 is a power connector where pin 1 is V+ and pin2 is GND? Correct?
Pope said:
From what i understand, JP2 is a power connector where pin 1 is V+ and pin2 is GND? Correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it's actually just the other way round :arrow: - Pin 1 is GND and Pin-2 is V+
// Per
Oh yeah - should have just looked at the pinout on the voltage regulator! doh!
I've done it, but sound quality is bad.
Hi.
I've built this kit and tested it with many configurations (of grounding CAR_ON and using different grounds for audio).
I've put the wavedev.dll too to get sound from mp3/gpsnav
Anyway, the sound it hissy all the time (no bass).
I've tested my MDAIII's headset audio out and it's OK.
Can't get good audio from bottom connector.
Anybody had anything like that ?
Yes, it's why I gave up on a self-made kit. I did many hours of troubleshooting and figured out it wasn't going to happen easily. My best success was with a self-built amplifier, but then I'd lose all the other features of the car kit.
Wasn't worth it, bought the official one.
Maybe I'd buy it, but it seems that there's no car kit with real audio out for car stereo (only some switchboxes etc.)
I've just tested audio with "ground seperator - noise filter".
It clears ground interference quite well.
But can anybody say why MDAIII has the same GND for audio, communications and charging ? This is insane !
I've cleared the noise, but the sound is still near bass-less.
I'll make some simple pre-amplifier and test using other GND's, but nothing would do as good as HTC detailed datasheet
If You have some good car kit, maybe You can look into it, to check how they managed to get clear audio ?
The ground loop isolators lose a lot of bass in the process. They are either simple matching transformers or largish capacitors. A capacitor won't pass frequencies below a certain point, and a transformer above a certain point.
The common ground was a source of many issues I ran into also. I don't have any ideas for you; I had the same problems. My next step, if I had the time, would be to design and build a pre-amp circuit with full floating grounds, and full-range frequency response. That could then be sent to a regular car amp.
Thanks for tips. Apparently, I'm building a pre-amplifier right now
But the problem with no-bass is not related to ground seperating transformer.
Whether I use GND seperation or not, there's nearly no bass from MDAIII.
Irritating... Sound from headset connector is super-fine.
I'll post my comments on pre-amplifier (when it's ready), and how it helps the situation.
Possibly they never intended to have that output used for music, just speakerphone. As I recall, I had the same issue.
It seems that only pre-amplifier with equalizer can help.
I'll keep informing of my progress.
If they truly restricted the low frequencies, then an EQ won't help. If they applied a bandpass or high pass filter, it will drop at least 6db per octave. An EQ would only work for light roll-off, and this is pretty severe.
Hi, I've had this problem with several devices, and now it's happened again. When I got my phone, I bought the Sennheiser MM 50 Nokia edition headphones, and at first they were working great. Now, after about a months use, the right earbud has stopped working. This is the first time it has happened on my Galaxy S, but I've had the same problem with several other devices (HTC Magic, iPod, etc) and LOADS of headphones. Now I'm starting to wonder if it's something I do, or if this is a general problem that's caused by normal wear and tear.
I've tested with other headphones, and that works, so it's not the phone. I also did a test where I disconnected the microphone part, to see if it was the plug that was broken, but the problem still persists. I also tried to twist the cable all the way down, but sound didn't differ at all.
Anyone with any info on this, and best of all, a fix?
EDIT: To specify: the right earbud still plays, but the volume is significantly decreased. From personal experience, it will stop completely in a matter of days.
Yep, this has happened to me a few times with my Sennheisers. The cable/wire is usually thin hence why they provide the pouch. There might be a crook in the cable. Sometimes this can be fixed by cutting that part out and soldering the wires back together. Usually not worth it if you don't have any soldering equipment.
Hi Everyone,
This is my first time posting as I am normally pretty good at googling solutions. But this time I am pretty stumped!
I brought an Nexus S i9023 and the speaker on it was faulty. It worked but it hissed and popped and was extremely quiet. Sounded like a dodgy connection more than anything. If you put pressure in the right place it would work for a few seconds.
Hence I decided to go and buy a replacement. I brought the replacement speaker with a new lead on it too from Aliexpress.
It arrived promptly and well packaged. It was obviously brand new too as the flex had not been bent.
I fitted this today but it doesn't work. nothing not a sound.
I put the old one back in and low and behold its hissing and making noises as per usual.
Can anyone tell me if I am missing anything here? Its definitely the right part, It fitted perfectly too.
Massively stumped and if anyone could suggest anything it would be greatly appreciated.
Fastraxs
Cannot think of anything else than to refit the new one and double check the connections...
if you've got a multimeter, measure the resistance (Ohms) across the terminals and compare to the old one, it should give you
a reading of a few Ohms - measure the readings with the speakers not connected to the board - that way you can deduce
if the "new" speaker is in fact good or not
gunner49 said:
Cannot think of anything else than to refit the new one and double check the connections...
if you've got a multimeter, measure the resistance (Ohms) across the terminals and compare to the old one, it should give you
a reading of a few Ohms - measure the readings with the speakers not connected to the board - that way you can deduce
if the "new" speaker is in fact good or not
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for the advice, my situation has gone from bad to considerably worse! So, I had the original which was quiet making funny noises and then the new replacement which wasn't doing anything. So I decided that perhaps it was just the speaker and decided to solder the new speaker to the old flex and see if I was in business.... exactly the same issue sound was working but very quiet and fading in and out and hissing etc. Hence I thought right then, got this one sorted its the flex. Back to the iron, I soldered the original speaker which I knew was working to the new flex, but still no sound tried a few times as I was worried that the connection from the new flex to the speaker wasn't quite solid enough.
This is where things got....well....rather gutting! The phone isn't turning on anymore. I get the screen light up for a split second, then go dark again. Tried to do all the usual things such as removing battery, tried to get it into boot mode (holding sound up and power), I get nothing when plugged into pc, nothing when plugged into the charger. I am worried that when soldering the speaker I could have bridged the positive and negative terminals and hence made it short. Would this blow my motherboard up? Is that even possible?
I am now at a complete loss what to do now, and before I do any more damage, I thought I would consult the experts. I should also say that it is completely stock and hasn't been rooted or anything along those lines.
Any help, advice, suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Again thank you gunner for your advice it is greatly appreciated, but my situation is rather worse now and I think I have a rather expensive paperweight on my hands.
I'm sorry things have gone to worse mate I assume you've been doing the soldering with no power to the phone!?
If you're suspecting you may have shorted the speaker, I think its a good idea to check that! I suggest to desolder, clean and resolder.
Put some soldering flux if you have any as those little flex things are sometimes a pain to get them attached.
I'm not familiar with the NS circuitry but I reckon a shorted speaker would not result in blowing the whole board! Before assembling
everything back again, check whether there are any tiny bits of solder that may have stayed on the board or to the components.
Clean around the soldered area carefully.
Also, you might want to check if the phone powers up with no speaker attached at all. You might be having another issue as to why its
not turning on.
Good luck and hope you can have it back up and running again mate!
Hi,
I replaced the screen of my brother's Nexus 5 and even so the display works perfectly we seem to have destroyed a component.
I managed to connect the device to lte/3g/2g networks (see photo in the attachment) and sometimes a few packets are even successfully transmitted but that's an exception. Usually it is not even possible to load a website within a reasonable amount of time..
Wifi works.
Stock and cm13-caf firmware show the same behavior.
Like shown in the photo the phone is successfully connected to a 4g/lte network.
Phone calls on a 2g-network work.
Any ideas to which component we have to replace? Or any hints on what could give more information about the actual issue?
Thanks in advance!
Best Regards
Michael
Does the original screen still work? If it does, you could try moving everything back to see if that makes a difference.
When you replaced the screen, did you use a where the LCD/frame/glass were pre-assembled?
Thanks for your response.
I had two replacement displays and noticed the same issues with both of them.
(I bought a cheap one first from ebay which had multiple touch screen issues and only after that bought a way more expensive original replacement unit.)
Hmm, hopefully, it is not a motherboard issue. I would suggest trying the old screen is possible.
Another part that may affect signal would be the USB flex port cable. The other pieces that attach to the motherboard are the camera, headphone jack, USB charging/data cable, and battery.
We completely destroyed the old display unit after removing all other components except for the battery. This made it easier to bend it and remove the battery without damaging its enclosing.
I'm afraid it might be the mainboard but was hoping for a cheaper solution . The usb board is still a possibility since it routes a quite a few signals between components.... Are there some schematics of the device available online?
Haven't seen any schematics.
I guess you didn't use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before using a spudger to remove the battery.
Examine the USB flex cable to see if there are any breaks.
If you get a phone with a smashed screen and working internals, you should be able to get the phone working.
I wasn't sure if heating up the battery is a good idea and since the old screen has already been damaged I really didn't care if it's even more so...
Heating the battery is fine as long as you keep moving the hair dryer around. The battery just needs to get warm, not hot. Also, you would heat it from the front of the phone, not the back.
I bought a Nexus 5 with a damaged display unit online and used its mainboard and antenna cables to fix my unit. Everything works again. Seems to have been something on the mainboard but I have no idea which component exactly.
Thanks for updating the thread with your solution.
So this may be kind of a weird question, or could be kind of an advanced question.
Lets start with the backstory first,
I got a vernee thor (the first model) 2 years ago,
a month or so ago I started having some serious battery leaking problems (very powerful smell of acetone and ether) after I changed the battery of the phone everything was working ok except the back speaker which doesn't want to work (i tried to reopen the phone and see if by removing the speaker and re apply it to its position will solve the problem but no luck) and i was thinking that the problem could be in 3 parts, the flat flexible cable tape that connects the two main boards of the phone, the charging board or the speaker itself.
now my question is what is the easiest way to test if my phone speaker is working, i know i can remove it from the phone and it was two poles that connect to two pins with just some force power (charging board --> speaker it self).
any idea on how to test something like that without just using another identical phone board ?
tldr: phone speaker doesn't work where is a good place to connect it to see if it is broken or not.