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Remote Desktop Cannot Connect

Hello all:
(first of all, I apologize for the double post, I erred and replied to a thread in the diamond forum)
I'm having problems getting my remote desktop to work. Been trying to connect since I picked up my Fuze on the 11th.
I have three different computers that I can successfully administer via my desktop. I've tried using 3G to connect, no success. I've tried using Wi-fi to connect, no success. I've used local computer names, IP addresses, properly forwarded ports --
It has to be a setting I'm missing on the phone. Any ideas? TIA

What version of Windows are you trying to connect to? Do you have a Firewall? And have you done the port forwarding on the router?
But the only options you need is Computer: IP Address and the user name and password. Use a Domain if you are connecting to PCs on a domain. Also when I logged in not using 16bit color under options the PC was almost unusable.

My attempts
The things I have tried since my post:
1) attempting to connect to Windows Server 2003 machine, non-local. Used IP address with port, same IPort that works from my desktop. Left username/password blank -- filled them both in -- left the domain name blank -- filled it in. All failed. Get the error message with three possible causes listed. Connected to my home network via wifi, data connection disabled (sometimes causes problems with my internet browsing if they're both enabled)
2) attempted to connect to a local machine, running XP Pro. Again, tried all possible combinations of username/password completeness, no success. Using Wifi
My local router does have a firewall, and the remote router does as well. I can successfully navigate those using my desktop (or laptop, for that matter)
GTO: I appreciate the quick reply...thank you.

3daysaside said:
The things I have tried since my post:
1) attempting to connect to Windows Server 2003 machine, non-local. Used IP address with port, same IPort that works from my desktop. Left username/password blank -- filled them both in -- left the domain name blank -- filled it in. All failed. Get the error message with three possible causes listed. Connected to my home network via wifi, data connection disabled (sometimes causes problems with my internet browsing if they're both enabled)
2) attempted to connect to a local machine, running XP Pro. Again, tried all possible combinations of username/password completeness, no success. Using Wifi
My local router does have a firewall, and the remote router does as well. I can successfully navigate those using my desktop (or laptop, for that matter)
GTO: I appreciate the quick reply...thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay its been awhile since I used 2k3 sever. Using 2k8 lately but are you trying to use Terminal Server? and if your using 2k3 and you have ISA enabled I know it can be a pain to do port forwarding with it. But let me get this stright. You have no issues using XPs Remote Desktop to log into the server machines Terminal Server/Remote Desktop? Here is an idea. Whatever port your running Terminal Server/Remote Desktop type the IP Address with a : and port. IE 192.168.0.1:3000
Also if you would like you can PM the IP address of one of the Machines and I will try from my phone that I know is working with my machine. I am pretty sure you don't need to end a user name or password and it will bring me up to the login screen or you can make a temp account. On also on the Win2k3 machine I am pretty sure you have to add the option to login with Terminal Server even if its the Administrator account.

I am able to connect to my local XP machine over wifi using the ip addy/no port. Hostname (DNS) connection attempt failed, though. My 2k3 server's power supply died or I would test that for you.
No special router config (port fwd) for my device had been done.
The fact that you can't get to your local box on your local network is where I'd start.

Local Network Issues
Thanks again to you both...
I think that might be the problem -- the local network setup. I can connect via wifi, and browse the web. However, I can't install a network printer using the WinMo app that's included, and I can't seem get to the local PC even when I use the local IP instead of the DNS name. I did check, I'm being issued an IP address by the router (obviously), but still no dice on anything relating to network based traffic.
Is there a way to ping using WinMo? I'd like to be able to use that start.

Cont..
Also, I've noticed that I don't get the same error each time. Depending on which machine I'm trying to connect to, it'll give me an error with either two or three options as to why it's not working. Trying to figure out what that's telling me.
As far as Terminal Services are concerned, when I connect from the desktop, I believe I'm using Remote Desktop there (honestly, I haven't been paying attention -- I just use whatever pops up when I type 'mstsc' from the Run dialog, lol), and I can connect to the 2003 server. However, I can't play with this anymore today, because apparently the server is down, and I won't be able to get to it till Monday.
I think I'm going to go play with the ATT proxy and see if that changes anything. I think mine is still enabled because I read that it might help with the GPS problems...

I have found some freeware app... pocketping 1.6 and microsoft has a network tool offering which I am not sure will work on WM6. I have no exp. with either tool on WM.
Can you get to your http/https router mgmt interface from the device? Check your router's client table? Does your router have any logging capabilities?
Sorry, more questions than answers.

Router
I am able to "dial" into the router from my phone -- it shows the HTCP4600 in the clients table with an IP of 192.168.2.108 ... all good.
My logging on the router was disabled, but now it is enabled. What should I be looking for?
I think i'll try the pocketping...

Now make sure inside of the router then you have all the correct ports forwarded.

It should be port 3999 to 3999 On UDP and TCP and then your PC ip behind the firewall.

Pocketping, JETCET Print 5, and success
Here's the update:
Discovered that by disabling the AT&T proxy on the Fuze, I was finally able to connect to my network printer -- the Fuze doesn't have the drivers for my printer, but that's another thread.
So I was able to make my first IN-Network contact. Installed pocketping 1.6, and it's a very useful tool. I'm able to successfully ping the computers on my network now that the proxy is disabled -- an voila...I can also connect to my laptop on my own network! The main trick was to use the network IP address and not the DNS name.
Thanks to both of you who helped out.

Remote Desktop & "Administrator" User Name?

When I go to set up RDP on my laptop, it asks for "Computer" & "User Name". Well I think I found my Computer's name - when you go to System and click the Remote tab, it displays: 'Full Computer Name' - so I *think* I'm set there (right?) My problem is that for "User Name", when click the Start button, at the top it says "Administrator". So when I fired up RDP on my phone and filled out the information, it came back with:
"Cannot connect. Likely reasons are: 1. Specified computer name or IP does not exist 2. A network error occured while establishing a connection"
I will say that I HAVE checked the Firewall Exception box that allows for Remote Access and I have also allowed users to connect via remote access through my System window on the Remote tab. What I HAVEN'T done, however, is anything in the way of port forwarding for 3389. I'm more than familiar with networking and working with routers, so that's not my issue. My issue is, if I'm supposed to forward a port to my IP address, how can I do that when all I can change is the last number:
http://img9.imageshack.us/my.php?image=portip4.jpg
1 - Is my user name being 'Administrator' a problem?
2 - How do I forward the ports, or work with this end of RDP? I've read about the DNS, but don't know exactly how to go about doing it.
I've been in my router before and changed some settings for the Xbox, so I don't think that has to do with DHCP on my local machine here, but correct me if I'm wrong. My question/problem is that this is set to "Automatic Configuration - DHCP"...
http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?image=configbz4.jpg
...is this a problem? Do I need to change this at all, as in, get in contact with my ISP and go through this setup? Furthermore, if I DO end up having to change this, will it affect anything else on my network? Some people just said they checked the exceptions and logged in without configuring a DNS, so I'm wondering exactly what all I have left to change?

When you try to connect to your computer or laptop from the internet you'll need your public IP address. (not your computer name)
Go yo http://www.whatismyip.com/ on your computer at home.
Second, on your router you have to forward port 3389 to the local ip address from your computer.
Then from outside your home network you start RDP and connect to your public IP address. Your router then will forward that connection to your computer/laptop.

johanromijn said:
When you try to connect to your computer or laptop from the internet you'll need your public IP address. (not your computer name)
Go yo http://www.whatismyip.com/ on your computer at home.
Second, on your router you have to forward port 3389 to the local ip address from your computer.
Then from outside your home network you start RDP and connect to your public IP address. Your router then will forward that connection to your computer/laptop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
**EDIT**
Perfect, got it down 100%. Although as a side note.. does anyone know of a way to make the resolution/colors better? It works fine and all, but the picture is just a bit distorted with the colors all off.

I use Remote Administrator and I have found it to be the best! It will also allow you to use your native resloution that is set on the host PC you are connecting to whereas RDP won't and if you are tying to view remote camera's like I do or anything that has a specific resolution required, RDP will fail where Remote Admin will not.
The latest version is v.3.0 and it's only like $30 or even less if I remember correctly. A search of your favorite file dispensing forum may find a test version to try out and if I remember correctly, Radmin lets you use it for 30 days before you have to buy the reg key.
My original version V2.1 was upgradeable to V3.0 for free and works for Vista and allows me to connect to my PC at home which I still have v2.1 on.
It's a great app, real small and FAST!
There's also VNC which is similar to Radmin, but lacks the hidden view only mode... Great for keeping an eye on what the kids are doing on the internet without them knowing you are watching!
Hope this helps...

HOW TO: Configure AndroidVNC to control your home pc (XP, Vista, 7, Mac OS/X, Linux)

1: Goto the market and download the Android VNC program
2: http://downloads.sourceforge.net/vnc-tight/tightvnc-1.3.10-setup.exe (If your using anything other than windows goto their download page, this file is for windows based pc's only)
3: Download #2, run the server and it will ask you to configure it. ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS SET A PASSWORD THAT IS 8 CHARACTERS OR LESS AND CONFIRM IT. Click ok to finish loading the tightvnc. You should see a small little icon in the lower right corner near the time that looks like a little V
4: http://www.whatismyip.com/ Write down your ip address (you will need this to configure the VNC program to tell it where your computer is on the internet
5: *******THIS IS A LITTLE ADVANCED FOR SOME PEOPLE DONT ATTEMPT IF YOUR NOT COMFORTABLE, GOOGLE SHOULD HAVE A WALKTHROUGH FOR YOUR MODEL OF ROUTER*******
6: This is very important part or it WILL NOT work. To make sure the proper ports are open to allow the vnc program to work
7: click start menu > run (windows vista uses start/search) type cmd, will open a black box up.
8. Type ipconfig into this box. Look for your connection that your using and the gateway ipaddress of that connection (should be along the lines of 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.254 for most mass produced routers, also write down your ip address (IF YOUR USING WINDOWS VISTA YOU ARE LOOKING FOR IP ADDRESSV4 NOT V6)
9: After getting this information, type hostmask and hit enter, write down your computer name
10: Once inside of your router, there will be a dmz option to set (usually within a NAT/QOS menu)
*******This will open all ports on the computer to the internet, if you dont feel comfortable doing this, follow these directions*********
11: goto the port forwarding section (should be in the same area as DMZ)
12: usually theres a nickname you type in to label the port forwarding your doing (label it androidvnc)
13: the FROM port number will be 5800 and TO will be 5900 and make sure to check the enable box (if there is one)
14: once in the DMZ menu input your ipaddressV4 into it and enable dmz mode if a checkmark is needed to enable DMZ for that ip address
15: load AndroidVNC, configure the Nickname with the anything you you wrote down (not sure if this is neccessary, which after research is not needed its just a nickname of the connection your making) type the password that you set within the Tightvnc program, Address is the ip address that you got from www.whatismyip.com, leave the port number the same
16: Connect and once it says "downloading first frame" you are connected and give it a second to work and than you will see the screen in front of you of your pc!
17: Configure AndroidVNC for the color depth that runs the fastest for you, also input should be set to the last one on the list (touch pan trackball mouse or something) which will allow you to pan the screen by touching it and the trackball is now your mouse.
P.S. I used scaling to goto 1:1, not fit to screen as it looked horrible in that mode.
P.S.S. That should do it, now you have a vnc connection made and downloading files while your at work (or whatever have you!) Any questions please feel free to PM me and i will help out to the best i can. If i missed a step please let me know and i will add it, but thats all it should take (had mine working in 5-10 minutes)
P.S.S.S! Everytime you disconnect wirelessly (if you use wireless) or shut your computer down, your IP address will more than likely change, upon reboot you will have to redue this process by getting the newly obtained IP address and changing the port forwarding ip address to reflect your new ip. If you know how to set static IP's.... you probably dont need this tutorial

mine is stuck at handshake.
i have tried everything
i have a 2wire router and i put it into dmz plus mode which allows all incoming connections

inpherno3 said:
1
10: once in the DMZ menu input your ipaddressV4 into it and enable dmz mode if a checkmark is needed to enable DMZ for that ip address
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bad idea. You just opened every port on the PC to the world, removing an important layer of protection. Playing around with DMZ is something to be done only if you know the potential consequences.
VNC listens on port 5900/tcp. Only forward that one. Also you'll need to add an exception on any firewall you may have on the PC.

Yes i understood that when writing it, thing is, to walk someone through specifying the port was a little much. People want it working, thats the easiest way.
@kp123: Dont forget to check for a software firewall, if your running vista make sure you allow it through when you run it for the first time.
@TonyHoyle: Most people have a software firewall on their pc's, if not than yes, someone looking to do something can. But thats a slim chance. Oh and tightvnc also uses port 5800. Yes still a port range of 5800-5900 would work.

bump for love

TonyHoyle said:
Bad idea. You just opened every port on the PC to the world, removing an important layer of protection. Playing around with DMZ is something to be done only if you know the potential consequences.
VNC listens on port 5900/tcp. Only forward that one. Also you'll need to add an exception on any firewall you may have on the PC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
good point... haha just forwarded port 5900 instead of all ports

I just installed AndroidVNC on my phone... VNC-Tight on my notebook with Windows7.
filled in the same username as notebook
changed password in VNCtight
filled in at my Desire HD
the 192.. ipv4 ip
and connection in 0.5sec

a more secure option
For more security use SSH ( quick version ):
- Forward port 22 instead of 5900 to your PC. The PC must have a SSH server runnign. I have linux so is basically ready, for windows you have to get a ssh server.
- From android use connectbot (from the market) to log into your PC and do a port forwad of 5900 to localhost:5900.
- use android VNC viewer to connect to localhost:5900.
VNC connection through a secure line.

I'm grave digging here but i hit this problem just now I installed CrossLoop on my Laptop Win 7 Ultimate (32-Bit) i set a password, i installed crossloop on my ascend M860 i set the same password i entered my IPv4 into crossloop droid i hit connect it stays on handshake i tried it the other way around still sticks at handshake i have also tried conecting through partner connect and still sticks at handshake. I have forwarded port 4900 TCP on a verizon modem! STILL stuck on handshake any pointers?

I thought I'd be major gravedigging but apparently not.
I used to use this all the time, but it was confusing me today as to why it wasn't working..
Turns out I forgot to portforward!
*facepalm*

WiFi Connection Issues

Hello all!
Not sure if this has been posted but I figured I would put up a new post. I am showing that I am connected to my home WiFi but I am not able to actually use it. For instance, I cannot open links or watch YouTube videos. I believe it is the router because I just had a Droid RAZR and my connections to the Internet were not dependable. Currently, I am using AT&T's 2Wire 2701HG-B Gateway router.
Are there any settings that should be adjusted within the router? Encryption type is WPA-PSK. Wireless mode is 802.11g/b.
I just got my S3 yesterday and so far WiFi works in other places. Also, I tried the #*0011# thing and that did not work for me. I've rebooted and factory reset my device. Nothing helps. Anything I can change?
Thanks in advance!

Does your router Administration panel (perhaps accessed via a web browser?) show your phone as connected with an assigned IP address?
- ooofest

ooofest said:
Does your router Administration panel (perhaps accessed via a web browser?) show your phone as connected with an assigned IP address?
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now that I'm looking, no it doesn't have it listed there. My phone says its connoted though. I forgot the connection, rebooted the phone and did the #*0011# and reconnected the network. Still the same result. Any ideas?

I've seen some routers being a bit buggy about showing all wireless-connected devices (my dual-band Netgear comes to mind), so I can only think of a few things to check:
This assumes your router is configured for DHCP and that you have addresses available in its configured range, etc.
1. Does anything else use this router successfully to access the Internet?
2. On your phone, Settings -> Wi-Fi->(click on the wireless network you are "Connected" to)->View, does it show an expected speed and a valid IP address from your router?
3. If (2.) revealed a valid IP address on the phone, can you ping that address from another system attached to the same router?
4. Did you connect the phone using a typed-in passphrase on both router and phone or by using the Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) push-button method on the router? I found that, no matter how carefully I typed the passphrase, it often would not connect to my desired network because something was somehow amiss. However, this phone is compatible with using WPS, so I used the router's push-button method and it connected easily + worked fine.
Just some things to check and ensure nothing critical is amiss.
- ooofest

ooofest said:
I've seen some routers being a bit buggy about showing all wireless-connected devices (my dual-band Netgear comes to mind), so I can only think of a few things to check:
This assumes your router is configured for DHCP and that you have addresses available in its configured range, etc.
1. Does anything else use this router successfully to access the Internet?
2. On your phone, Settings -> Wi-Fi->(click on the wireless network you are "Connected" to)->View, does it show an expected speed and a valid IP address from your router?
3. If (2.) revealed a valid IP address on the phone, can you ping that address from another system attached to the same router?
4. Did you connect the phone using a typed-in passphrase on both router and phone or by using the Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) push-button method on the router? I found that, no matter how carefully I typed the passphrase, it often would not connect to my desired network because something was somehow amiss. However, this phone is compatible with using WPS, so I used the router's push-button method and it connected easily + worked fine.
Just some things to check and ensure nothing critical is amiss.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Yes, my iPad and two laptops.
2. There is a link speed and an IP address but the third number of the IP address on my phone is different than the third number of the IP addresses of the devices listed that connect to the router. I hope I made some type of sense saying that lol! There are about 6 devices listed that connect to the router and the first, second and third numbers are the same. My phone only have the first & second numbers in common.
3. didn't try that because I'm assuming something isn't right from the previous answer.
4. I typed in the pass phrase from my phone. I do not know of any other way to connect the device. I am not familiar with doing it from the admin panel especially since I'm not even seeing the device there.
Thanks again!

Yeah, not getting the proper address range would be indicative of a problem authenticating with the router, I'd suspect. If you are using the default router configuration, it should have an IP address of 192.168.1.x, where x = {some number}
You might try temporarily setting the router to "WEP-Open" and no passphrase on the phone (i.e., connect to the open network) to determine if the phone can obtain a valid IP address from this router before doing more debugging. This might weed out the possibility that this new phone has an inherent problem connecting with your specific router - even though other devices don't have such issues, maybe the Galaxy S III is sensitive in this regard.
Consider ensuring that the "Power setting" in your wireless configuration is at its maximum value (10?).
Aside, I don't know if the latest firmware enables WPA2-PSK, but that utilizes AES and is often more efficient than WPA-PSK, from my understanding. If using WEP-Open works for your new phone in the above test, then consider setting the router to "WPA-PSK and WPA2-PSK" (if it has that value) and try reconnecting using the passphrase (either 10 or 26 letters/numbers) - that setting should be compatible with your other devices and not require them to be reconfigured, I believe.
This topic seems to indicate people have problems with your model of router in making and keeping wireless connections at times, sometimes needing to hardcode the router down to only use "b" protocol (i.e., slower) for maintaining stable connections. I don't think that's the case here, though.
This User Guide (.pdf) for your router model does not seem to show that it offers WPS as an alternative for establishing device connectivity. From my recollection, my phone would only connect reliably to the router using encryption when I used the WPS button on the router. That's why I asked you to set your router to be Open for a test.
- ooofest

I had the same issue as you. I would be connected to my router and nothing at all. I am using a att modem/router along with my netgear wndr3800. But wifi was dropping a lot of the time. I never had this problem before when I had my Rezound. 3 days before I got my S3 I upgraded the firmware on my netgear router. I am guessing my S3 didn't like the firmware update or something. I tried everything in the router settings to doing a factory reset on both the att modem and my netgear router. Nothing... So I honestly thought it was my phone. Called Verizon and asked them to ship me a refurbished. So, I thought I would try one more thing. Revert back to my old firmware on the netgear router. Well it worked. Since Friday night I haven't had the issue you are having. Connected to my home wifi with no drops at all. It could be the firmware. Wonder if you could revert back. On a att modem/router I am not sure.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

ooofest said:
Yeah, not getting the proper address range would be indicative of a problem authenticating with the router, I'd suspect. If you are using the default router configuration, it should have an IP address of 192.168.1.x, where x = {some number}
You might try temporarily setting the router to "WEP-Open" and no passphrase on the phone (i.e., connect to the open network) to determine if the phone can obtain a valid IP address from this router before doing more debugging. This might weed out the possibility that this new phone has an inherent problem connecting with your specific router - even though other devices don't have such issues, maybe the Galaxy S III is sensitive in this regard.
Consider ensuring that the "Power setting" in your wireless configuration is at its maximum value (10?).
Aside, I don't know if the latest firmware enables WPA2-PSK, but that utilizes AES and is often more efficient than WPA-PSK, from my understanding. If using WEP-Open works for your new phone in the above test, then consider setting the router to "WPA-PSK and WPA2-PSK" (if it has that value) and try reconnecting using the passphrase (either 10 or 26 letters/numbers) - that setting should be compatible with your other devices and not require them to be reconfigured, I believe.
This topic seems to indicate people have problems with your model of router in making and keeping wireless connections at times, sometimes needing to hardcode the router down to only use "b" protocol (i.e., slower) for maintaining stable connections. I don't think that's the case here, though.
This User Guide (.pdf) for your router model does not seem to show that it offers WPS as an alternative for establishing device connectivity. From my recollection, my phone would only connect reliably to the router using encryption when I used the WPS button on the router. That's why I asked you to set your router to be Open for a test.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried WEEP-Open and that did not allow me to connect either. I did set up WPA2 but I still was not able to connect. The power setting was set to 10. Not sure how to manually add the device which I was going to try. I've forgot it several times and added it again but it does not work. I did connect at a different location. Not sure what else to try. Even tried changing the channel.

iLogikk said:
I tried WEEP-Open and that did not allow me to connect either. I did set up WPA2 but I still was not able to connect. The power setting was set to 10. Not sure how to manually add the device which I was going to try. I've forgot it several times and added it again but it does not work. I did connect at a different location. Not sure what else to try. Even tried changing the channel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's not connecting to your router with WEP-Open, then something different is going on. I looked in the manual for MAC Address access lists, but that doesn't appear to be a feature of this router (unless it was added in a firmware update which came after the manual was published - if this was the case, your laptops and iDevice would have had their MAC addresses added to the router as another layer of access control to the WiFi network).
Sorry, I'm out of ideas on this one. You seemed to say that the Samsung connects to other WiFi points, so perhaps there is an inherent incompatibility between this router model and your phone which can be reported to Samsung and/or Verizon Tech Support - for all we know, this is a known issue.
- ooofest

ooofest said:
If it's not connecting to your router with WEP-Open, then something different is going on. I looked in the manual for MAC Address access lists, but that doesn't appear to be a feature of this router (unless it was added in a firmware update which came after the manual was published - if this was the case, your laptops and iDevice would have had their MAC addresses added to the router as another layer of access control to the WiFi network).
Sorry, I'm out of ideas on this one. You seemed to say that the Samsung connects to other WiFi points, so perhaps there is an inherent incompatibility between this router model and your phone which can be reported to Samsung and/or Verizon Tech Support - for all we know, this is a known issue.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for all of your help!

Rams99 said:
I had the same issue as you. I would be connected to my router and nothing at all. I am using a att modem/router along with my netgear wndr3800. But wifi was dropping a lot of the time. I never had this problem before when I had my Rezound. 3 days before I got my S3 I upgraded the firmware on my netgear router. I am guessing my S3 didn't like the firmware update or something. I tried everything in the router settings to doing a factory reset on both the att modem and my netgear router. Nothing... So I honestly thought it was my phone. Called Verizon and asked them to ship me a refurbished. So, I thought I would try one more thing. Revert back to my old firmware on the netgear router. Well it worked. Since Friday night I haven't had the issue you are having. Connected to my home wifi with no drops at all. It could be the firmware. Wonder if you could revert back. On a att modem/router I am not sure.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried every way possible to find a way to revert back but it does not work. No success. I've noticed that this S3, my old razr, & another android phone does not actually connect. The comet (3rd phone) actually appears on the the panel but the ip address on the phone is different than what is showing on the admin page for my router. The phone does show whereas the razr and s3 never even appear in the list though they say they are connected.
I'm at a dead end

iLogikk said:
I've tried every way possible to find a way to revert back but it does not work. No success. I've noticed that this S3, my old razr, & another android phone does not actually connect. The comet (3rd phone) actually appears on the the panel but the ip address on the phone is different than what is showing on the admin page for my router. The phone does show whereas the razr and s3 never even appear in the list though they say they are connected.
I'm at a dead end
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be honest. It's not your phone. I think you said you already did a factory reset on the modem/router correct? If not, do it and revert back to factory settings. If that doesn't work I would call att and tell them to send you another att modem/router. Tell them your wifi is down. Hopefully you'll get everything back to where it was. Good luck.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

Fix
This is what finally worked after two weeks of researching! Found this here for the toshiba thrive but it worked for mr! http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
I tried this part but all of my settings were already set to match this....including it because it was part of the process.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by shakefry
My little sister received a cool Toshiba Thrive for Christmas but the thing will not connect to the proprietary router we have. The router isn't the problem because I've been able to connect a Macbook, 2 PCs, a 3DS and a smartphone to it and they all work as needed. When we put in the password for the connection it saying it is 'scanning' and 'connecting' then disconnects and starts going into a scanning loop saying is scanning then stopping then starting again.
I found a similar topic about this but the thread did not answer my question. I followed all of the steps of given solutions to no avail. And the constant suggestion to set the beacon or preamble differently is highly frustrating because the model router I have does not have such settings (I have gone through all the menus about ten times, literally).
I have also heard that the connection security could be a factor but I am not willing to downgrade my WPA 2 (TKIP & AES) to a WPA 1 or WEP, unless its absolutely necessary. I've been googling for hours so I need a solution or unfortunately we will have to return it for a more compatible device, which would suck because we got this for a good price (new).
Our router is a 2WIRE 3800 hgv-b (we have AT&T Uverse, idk if I should specify anything else)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi shakefry - Nice to meet you. You are 100 percent right you should not lower your security - WPA2 is the strongest and it does work fine with Thrive. That is what I use.
For some reason the ATT 2-wire routers are the most frustrating, but that is not a problem. We just might have to try a few different things, instead of getting it to connect the first time, so stay with me, OK? big brothers always have to help their little sisters...
----
1. You do not have MAC Filtering enabled,do you? If you do add the Thrive's MAC to the Router's list of permitted devices. Then try connecting.....
2. Not using MAC Filtering, or you added the thrive and still can not connect ......
OK, First ... Lets get the info your Windows Laptop has about your router when it connects
successfully to the 3800HG-B Router via wifi:
On your (Win7?) PC that is successfully connected by wifi to the same network, lets get some wifi settings. Vista - pretty much the same screens, XP a little different looking.
Click on the wifi signal lower right taskbar, open network and sharing center.
click on right side in blue, your network name
Pop up window - click on Details
the detail window opens ...
IPv4 Subnet Mask should be 255.255.255.0, if not we need to change it in the router settings.
This would prevent you from getting to the internet, but with all devices not just thrive.
Copy down IPv4 Default Gateway, and both IPv4 Servers
(Most routers will not need the actual IPv4 addresses in the devices DNS1 and DNS2, but yours might)
Now (no picture) close the DETAILS window and click on WIRELESS PROPERTIES. click on SECURITY tab, then click on SHOW PASSWORD. DO NOT CHANGE THIS FIELD, YOUR PC WILL DISCONNECT. WHAT YOU SEE IN THIS FIELD IS THE CORRECT PASSWORD TO YOUR NETWORK.
(I just want to be 100 percent sure - this is the password you need to log the thrive on. You are pretty sharp with all this stuff, so you know it is case sensitive, don't mistake a "zero" for the cap letter O, etc.
We will try using these when we set Thrive's wifi settings for your network.
(Go to link to find the screenshot)
Now please check the following router summary page by logging on to your router.
Make sure, on the right side it, shows enough DHCP Available, and on that the router
address is still 192.168.1.254
And on the left, the page is exactly the same as below, none of the blank fields are filled in, right?
And the top button is still selected ..... 192.168.1.0/255.255.255.0 (default)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THIS IS WHERE THE ACTUAL FIX CAME IN
Originally Posted by shakefry
"Would it possibly help if i DID enable filtering? then I could just put in all the device's MAC addresses and maybe it'll be more focused or something?"
No filtering wont "pull in" the devices, through the front door of the router. Filtering will just turn them around and kick them out again if they are not on the "invited to the party" List.
"edit: I just found a similar page, the design is slightly different. The router/gateway address is one number above my DHCP range and it says I have 178 available and there are 12 allocated (weird because we only have 10 devices connected to this thing that I know of)
OK so you have plenty of available IP addresses (DHCP). It is normal to see a couple more than the number of devices you have."
So now you have the info you need to connect the thrive (maybe):
1-Hold the Thrive in portrait mode so the keyboard does not hide the settings
...
2- Go to Settings >> Wireless and Networks >> Wi-Fi settings >> tap your network name, Tap FORGET
Now when your network name shows up again under wifi settings ....
select WPA2
Enter password, it is case sensitive.
3- tap the triangle where it says DHCP, select "static"
enter 192.168.1.173. (a nice odd numbered unused ip, away from the auto assigned ones).
(You are making it an odd number (173) because if you buy, in the future, something like a network drive, or AppleTV, it will probably come with a nice "multiple of five" static number like 150 or 155 or 35
the "CONNECT" is greyed out .... right?
4- enter routers gateway 192.168.1.254
enter prefix 24
enter dns1 192.168.1.254
5- the"CONNECT" brightened up again? Tap CONNECT.
....... OR ..........
CONNECT is still greyed out? Enter DNS2 192.168.1.254, tap CONNECT
ARE YOU CONNECTED???
If NO
1- update the router's firmware - try connecting again
2- We will give up on the 3800 and add your second router, with different sets of DHCP ranges, and broadcasting on a non-conflicting channels to the 3800's channel ( channels 1, 6, and 11 do not conflict with each other - assign one router to channel one and the other to channel 11, and keep them a couple of feet away from each other.
shakefry, Please Let us know how it goes, which solution worked ... so other forum readers can help their little sisters too ....
we are standing by (actually in my comfy recliner waiting ..)
Thanks, bobj
aka Bojo, or Obi-Wan, or RouterRooter
I was able to connect to wifi consistently and access the Internet and YouTube app successfully. Hope this helps someone else!!!
Source: http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html

Glad to hear you got it going. I actually fixed mine about 3 days ago. I read somewhere changing your ssid inside the router helps. Well, I did and it actually worked. I haven't had a problem with my wifi signal yet. On mine what was happening also was whenever my phone would go into sleep for say 5min and I went to use the Internet immediately. It would take the wifi about 20-30secs for the wifi to wake up. So far, since changing my ssid I haven't had that problem at all.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

iLogikk said:
This is what finally worked after two weeks of researching! Found this here for the toshiba thrive but it worked for mr!
. . .
2- Go to Settings >> Wireless and Networks >> Wi-Fi settings >> tap your network name, Tap FORGET
Now when your network name shows up again under wifi settings ....
select WPA2
Enter password, it is case sensitive.
3- tap the triangle where it says DHCP, select "static"
. . .
4- enter routers gateway 192.168.1.254
enter prefix 24
enter dns1 192.168.1.254
5- the"CONNECT" brightened up again? Tap CONNECT.
....... OR ..........
CONNECT is still greyed out? Enter DNS2 192.168.1.254, tap CONNECT
. . .
Source: http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting a followup.
Did you delete and re-add the WiFi network on your phone, configuring it for a static route and IP address that was in the range on the router, essentially?
- ooofest

Help! Android tethering! Double nat! 100% packet loss

I'm having issues with my internet and am unable to do certain things that are sensitive to the NAT type. I have an LG Stylo 2 (Sprint), Windows 7 PC, Linksys router, Xbox One. Here's the order things are connected in
LGLS775>USB Tethered via PDANet>Windows 7 PC>Ethernet wire>Linksys router>Ethernet wire>Xbox One
I'm not sure how to set things up to fix the NAT type. Connection details: 60ms ping. 28 download. 7 upload. 100% packet loss.
I can still play certain games and access certain websites. But not everything. PLEASE DO NO TELL ME TO GO TO A DIFFERENT FORUM! ONLY POST HELPFUL ANSWERS

3 years later.
This is almost the same setup I'm working with but im using the wifi instead of usb on those parts.
For anyone having these issues I've got a couple things to try.
You can connect directly to pdanet via WiFi with pretty much any device (that I've seen so far) if you're able to set the proxy setting to manual using the ip given in pdanet with the port 8000. For me it would be 192.168.49.1:8000.
Or if you have to or just prefer to use a PDANet -> PC -> Router -> Device setup.
I used to have a much worse time with disconnects and error codes playing Destiny 2 on Steam, I still have problems here and there, sometimes often still. Ive got a good feeling though that what i did, actually improved my situation at least a bit.
In pdanet top right little menu with "Help" and "Dev Code", select IPv6 Support, then Prioritize IPv4.
Then in Windows, head to Network and Sharing, Change adapter settings, right click > properties on the adapter doing ICS then (what i did) uncheck "Internet Protocol Version 6 (TCP/IPv6)", "QoS Packet Scheduler", and anything else that isn't default, in my case, Npcap Packet Drivers.
I actually can't be sure that any of these really did anything but im much less frustrated than i used to be.
Also in my case im using a Netgear in AP mode, which ends up with a different local ip than ones that pdanet give. For me, after pdanet is adequately connected to the router, it seems that most of my Android devices work without further setup but some devices require setting a static ip, which should be easy to find using "arp -a" or "ipconfig" in cmd.
-In My Case-
The gateway was 192.168.137.1 so i choose any 2 digit number after 137. for the main (connecting device's) ip. Example. 192.168.137.23
So when connecting device to router via WiFi you will choose to set Manual/Static IP then after that the settings should look something like...
IP: 192.168.137.23
Gateway: 192.168.137.1
DNS: 192.168.137.1
Secondary DNS: 8.8.8.8
If v these v are set automatically or not required then you should be able to ignore them
Network prefix length: 24
Subnet mask: 255.255.255.0
I'm still trying to find other ways to set things that may be better but so far these are working okay for me. Don't hesitate to ask any question if clarification is needed, i understand a lot of things i post can be confusing. I hope at least some of this was helpful in any way!

CornholeOS_x86 said:
3 years later.
This is almost the same setup I'm working with but im using the wifi instead of usb on those parts.
For anyone having these issues I've got a couple things to try.
You can connect directly to pdanet via WiFi with pretty much any device (that I've seen so far) if you're able to set the proxy setting to manual using the ip given in pdanet with the port 8000. For me it would be 192.168.49.1:8000.
Or if you have to or just prefer to use a PDANet -> PC -> Router -> Device setup.
I used to have a much worse time with disconnects and error codes playing Destiny 2 on Steam, I still have problems here and there, sometimes often still. Ive got a good feeling though that what i did, actually improved my situation at least a bit.
In pdanet top right little menu with "Help" and "Dev Code", select IPv6 Support, then Prioritize IPv4.
Then in Windows, head to Network and Sharing, Change adapter settings, right click > properties on the adapter doing ICS then (what i did) uncheck "Internet Protocol Version 6 (TCP/IPv6)", "QoS Packet Scheduler", and anything else that isn't default, in my case, Npcap Packet Drivers.
I actually can't be sure that any of these really did anything but im much less frustrated than i used to be.
Also in my case im using a Netgear in AP mode, which ends up with a different local ip than ones that pdanet give. For me, after pdanet is adequately connected to the router, it seems that most of my Android devices work without further setup but some devices require setting a static ip, which should be easy to find using "arp -a" or "ipconfig" in cmd.
-In My Case-
The gateway was 192.168.137.1 so i choose any 2 digit number after 137. for the main (connecting device's) ip. Example. 192.168.137.23
So when connecting device to router via WiFi you will choose to set Manual/Static IP then after that the settings should look something like...
IP: 192.168.137.23
Gateway: 192.168.137.1
DNS: 192.168.137.1
Secondary DNS: 8.8.8.8
If v these v are set automatically or not required then you should be able to ignore them
Network prefix length: 24
Subnet mask: 255.255.255.0
I'm still trying to find other ways to set things that may be better but so far these are working okay for me. Don't hesitate to ask any question if clarification is needed, i understand a lot of things i post can be confusing. I hope at least some of this was helpful in any way!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I actually figured it out a while back but now I'm in the same boat since I've moved to a place with no highspeed again. Same basis except I'm now T-Mobile, using a VPN and the Hotspot VPN APK. Same connection route. If I remember correctly there was an IP address error with the 137.anything. I'll post an update soon.

Anything better then pdanet ? That bypass data speed throttle after using so much???