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Plugged in Transformer last night to charge it up overnight when the battery hit 30%. I updated the firmware yesterday morning and everything was going swimmingly.
Woke it up this morning, and found it was at 9% battery remaining and had a low battery warning. I had a closer look and the battery icon shows no indication that it's charging when it's plugged in.
Right now I've plugged it into a bog-standard USB charger and turned it off, hoping it'll trickle charge (damn the lack of a charge LED!) and that it's a fault with the power adapter rather than the device itself.
Anyone else had this issue?
I had the same problem a few days ago, my charger was plugged in via a multi block and it would not charge.
I even went to the extreme of taking my device back to comet in the hope I could swap the charger out with their demo unit.
Man behind counter plugs my charger into some sort electrical surge protected socket and it starts charging straight away leaving me looking like a right tool standing their. (and they tried to sell me 3 years extended cover)
Brought it home and plugged it into the very socket where it wasn't working and what do you know? It starts working!
Not sure what the issue was but it now works again.
Ok well that's good to know!
On trickle-charge it's now gone up by 2% since I posted.
Looks like the power adapter has its own faults...
Oh, and what do you know... plugged wall charger back in (it's been unplugged for 20mins) and now it's all happy and charging again.
Hooray.
yeah maybe that 20 minute trip to comet fixed mine too..
the USB mains adapter plug has a fatal flaw - the middle part of the usb connection isn't as sturdy as it sould be so it is easy to plug a USB port in the wrong way around and it looks and feels plugged in correctly as the middle part just moves out of the way.
If it isn't charing always check to make sure the USB connection is in the right way around in the plug.
I am bummed about this proprietary power connector; and apparently proprietary USB cable with extra pins (negating the use of USB extension cables). I wish the TF had a standard round power adapter similar to the Acer A500.
Thank God, i thought i was the only one. Had exactly this problem with mine when it arrived a couple of days ago, i am lucky enough to have lots of USB chargers around so i tried and tested various combinations and tried to charge other devices with the asus charger.
The problem lies as far as i can see, entirely with the charger unit. The charger comes in two parts, one is the usb dock and the other the relevant country plug. The way the plug fits onto the face of the charger is the important part. There is a central 'locating pin' made from plastic and two contacts that slot into the charger carrying the live and negative. The construction of this part is very, very poor. The tolerances are not a match for the quality of the plastic, the T shaped plastic locater does not actually locate the bottom pins properly and needs a great deal of force to lock in placce, and here is the best part, it doesnt like STAYING locked. As the plastic is weak, and we are looking at just a couple of mm here, it will snap, that will stop there being a clean contact and no charge. As a remedy, i have secured the face plate to the charger very tightly with a high tech rubber band
I agree, the use of specific power connectors in this day and age is just as dumb a decision as any manufacturer can make, and the rate it recharges at from a USB to PC connection can only be described as comical, a full recharge in 26 hours . Aside from all that its nigh on perfect, but i can see power related alternatives being VERY popular until Asus catches up with the rest of the electronics industry.
havent even had mine an hour and i havent done the update because its not at 50% and it will not charg at all. when i first tried to start it i thought it was doa because it would not turn on. guess ill take you guys advice and leave it unplugged for a while. i hate the charging cable is so small too that definately sucks.
Hmmm... if only a few other people created topics about not charging...
Hello all. I found some information that some of you may find useful, so I wanted to share.
If you are running a custom kernel, go download Current Widget from the market
https://market.android.com/details?id=com.manor.currentwidget&hl=en
Install it, add the widget to your screen, and plug in your phone. You should be getting 350-380mA, this is AC charging mode. If you are getting in the low 200's you have a charger or cable that is not bypassing the data+ and data- wires in your phone, this is called USB charging.
If it is showing 0mA, then your kernal is not supported and it will not work. You can still do the steps below and get the same results, you will just not be able to see the data visually. I am running Gummy2.0 and the widget works great.
Some chargers are built .. badly.. and rely on a specific cable that will bypass the D+ and D-. the problem is, that cable will not work for anything USB related, such as flashing roms.
If you are anything like me, you have a dozen USB cables laying around and just use the closet one you can find when you need to charge up. However, if you use a data cable with a wall charger that does not disable D+ and D- you will charge at the USB charging rate, which is much slower than when AC charging is enabled, and can be irritating when your phone drains more power than its getting from the charger, resulting in power loss. This happens often while using your phone as a wifi hotspot. In USB charging mode, you can potentially drain the battery faster than the charger can charge. This can be prevented by being in AC charging mode.
You can either dig around for cables and test them out with your charger to see if you can get up to the 380mA range, or you can solder the D+ and D- points together in your charger. I do not recommend the 2nd option unless you are failure with soldering on small IC circuit boards.
But if you are adventurous, the 2 center pins on the USB cable are D+ and D-. If you open up your charger you will see the backside of the USB port and notice the 4 solder points that connect to the USB plug side. Place a bead of solder between this 2 to short them together. This will allow the charger to be in "AC" mode and charge at the higher rate.
This will also work for USB plug car chargers and will allow your phone to continue to have a positive charge even while navigating (which as most people know, Navigating can still drain your battery even when its plugged in).
Hope this helps! Feel free to ask any questions, I will do my best to answer them.
-EDIT-
Make sure to set the update interval in Current Widget to 1, for 1 second updates, this will help when monitoring the charge current.
Let me test this out... I'll report back in a lil bit. Calibrating battery, can't charge. Later...
I'm using a 10' cable from Monoprice. I'm getting 373mA. I'll post on what I get using my car charger... but I'm getting pretty good battery life that I rarely have to charge it in the ride
Hi,
My TF101 won't charge anymore. The original charger stopped working a while back, which is when I first switched to a 12v 1.5a charger with USB tip from Radioshack. ---Insert long story about using the charger last night to charge a drill battery and possibly shorting some wires in bad ways---. I just bought a brand new adapter from Radioshack. Plugged in my tablet, the battery charging icon pops up for a second then goes away and there are no other signs of charging. Same thing happens when I plug it into one of my computer's 12v rails (similar to this). I think it might be trickle charging, but I haven't yet left it alone for more than an hour or so. Same thing happened when I plugged it into a 19v laptop adapter (swapped out the barrel tip with my USB tip). The USB tip is a single unchanged variable in all of these tests, but when I was at Radioshack I quickly tested the new adapter with a new tip, and it did not work, so I don't think the USB tip is the problem, but maybe. A multimeter shows correct voltage from both adapters and computer. I can't seem to get any reading from the female USB tip plug, but I also don't know where the put the meter leads, when I put them both inside the plug I got some sparks so I stopped.
Could there be something wrong with the tablet itself?
Thanks,
Marc
Edit: Or how can I test the 30-pin connector that goes into the tablet with a multimeter?
EDIT: SCROLL DOWN TO POST #12 WHERE I SHOW YOU HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN FULL-1900 mAh CHARGER!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=43663686&postcount=12
-=========================================
Has anyone used this particular item before? Or can recommend a similar hard-wire unit that operates at 2A to 3A?
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Connectors-Adapter-Recorder/dp/B00D6B6CJI
I'm thinking about getting one for my SUV and Motorcyle to charge the S4 at normal 1900 rates like the OEM wall-charger. Get that FAST charge.
Yes, I know about cig lighter chargers. No, that is not what this thread is for.
hello did you buy it?
CZ Eddie said:
Has anyone used this particular item before? Or can recommend a similar hard-wire unit that operates at 2A to 3A?
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Connectors-Adapter-Recorder/dp/B00D6B6CJI
I'm thinking about getting one for my SUV and Motorcyle to charge the S4 at normal 1900 rates like the OEM wall-charger. Get that FAST charge.
Yes, I know about cig lighter chargers. No, that is not what this thread is for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this hardwired into my WRX:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDL-WaterPr...35?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item1c34627e83
I ran it off the clock circuit (my clock is dead anyways) but any switched 12v source will do. It charges my car integrated Nexus7 without any issues, and at the faster rate.
I have another powering a servo and an aux USB port, but unfortunately I ran so much wire to get it into the center console by the handbrake it charges at USB rates.
paolopaulpaul said:
hello did you buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet.
Caferacer said:
I have this hardwired into my WRX:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDL-WaterPr...35?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item1c34627e83
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that's a great price! Does it charge at ~1900 rates? Here is an app that will tell you the charging rate:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw&hl=en
Just bought this one for $9 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-waterpr...34?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item3a7a051922
It's a waterproof box so it'll be better on my Motorcycle. I'll let you guys know how it works out by next week sometime.
There was a thread somewhere that explained why some chargers won't do the 1900mah charge. He figured out where and what size resistors to put across the wires to enable it. I think it was in a car dock thread, I'll try and find it.
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
CZ Eddie said:
Not yet.
Wow, that's a great price! Does it charge at ~1900 rates? Here is an app that will tell you the charging rate:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw&hl=en
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That app won't show the mA on my N7 but does show it charging near the same % as a fast charger.
MonkeyTime said:
There was a thread somewhere that explained why some chargers won't do the 1900mah charge. He figured out where and what size resistors to put across the wires to enable it. I think it was in a car dock thread, I'll try and find it.
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the shorting/grounding of the data pins that activates 'fast charge' mode on some phones. Nexus 7's and my E4GT (Sprint S2) when I used it didn't require the pins to be shorted to charge faster. Mostly it was the charger (duh) and the quality/length of the cable that affected the charge speed. As well, most of the heavy 1A plus chargers short the data pins in the charger itself so you can use any cable. I believe the S4 doesn't require it as well, but don't have any data to confirm it.
The way I wired mine was to sacrifice a USB female port from a USB extender, and attached the power leads and shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Caferacer said:
shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yours is the second post I've seen where someone has shorted the data pins on a charging-only setup. Is there a reason for doing that?
Ehh, n/m. I remembered the "Google before you ask" mantra...
This explains it nicely:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/194362-wont-charge-over-usb-car.html
MichaelBR said:
There are some reasons why it won't work, and some ways to solve it. First, let's understand how it works:
The USB cable has four pins. The inner two pins are where the data goes through. THe outer, power.
When the USB cable is plugged in to a computer, the data pins are connected normally and the phone knows it can only draw certain amount of power
When the cable is plugged in to a charger, the two middle pins are shorted, and the phone knows that it's NOT going to be sendind/receiving data, so it can draw as much power as it can. That's why it charges faster with the charger than when plugged in to a computer
Most chargers short the two pins. Some cables have a switch to do that.
There are different cable cauges as well, with different power capacities.
Some USB chargers, notably car chargers and some low-end (i.e. not good brand) chargers that don't draw from the car/don't give the phone as much current as it needs.
So, if any of below, the phone won't charge, or won't charge fast enough. Or, worse: it may appear as charging, but actually losing battery charge!
Cable too long or incorrect gauge
Middle pins not shorted for some reason
Charger doesn't deliver enough current
And the solutions are:
Don't use cable extensions, cables that are too long. Stick with the cable that came with the phone or with the charger
Get a good car charger, that delivers the right amount of current
I imagine you just got the cable from your original wall charger and plugged it in to the car charger. If you did that, then chances are the cable is OK, and the charger is the culprit. If this is the case, then get a better charger. Check how much current that charger can deliver. Check how much current your device actually needs.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
CZ Eddie said:
Yours is the second post I've seen where someone has shorted the data pins on a charging-only setup. Is there a reason for doing that?
Ehh, n/m. I remembered the "Google before you ask" mantra...
This explains it nicely:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/194362-wont-charge-over-usb-car.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be clear, there is no indication it is *required* for the S4. Mine quick charges just fine without shorted data leads. However I did this because my friends have a variety of phones and it only took a few minutes to do.
Caferacer said:
That app won't show the mA on my N7 but does show it charging near the same % as a fast charger.
It's the shorting/grounding of the data pins that activates 'fast charge' mode on some phones. Nexus 7's and my E4GT (Sprint S2) when I used it didn't require the pins to be shorted to charge faster. Mostly it was the charger (duh) and the quality/length of the cable that affected the charge speed. As well, most of the heavy 1A plus chargers short the data pins in the charger itself so you can use any cable. I believe the S4 doesn't require it as well, but don't have any data to confirm it.
The way I wired mine was to sacrifice a USB female port from a USB extender, and attached the power leads and shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Caferacer said:
To be clear, there is no indication it is *required* for the S4. Mine quick charges just fine without shorted data leads. However I did this because my friends have a variety of phones and it only took a few minutes to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I agree with what you posted in general terms, below is the link to the thread I was talking about. He did some testing and found the pins aren't just shorted, but shorted w/ 82K resistors to get the maximum charging current.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2274321
Will it damage the phone to have a 3A charger plugged into it? Also If it does not damage would it be able to run the camera as a "blackbox" and not die? I currently have a 2a charger and when i use the black box software it dies after about an hour or so.
SUCCESS!
I got the little black box in from eBay.
Gave it a quick/test wire setup. This is NOT indicative of the end result which will be soldered & have shrink tubing, etc.
Okay, first I grabbed my stock S3 data/charge cable.
Snipped off the standard USB end.
Cut off the ends of the pin 2 & 3 wires since they were not being used anymore (data pins).
Then attached the red (power) from the S3 cable to the yellow (power) lead from the little black box. And did the same for the black (negative) leads.
Then hard wired the red & black from the little black box to my motorcycle battery terminals.
On the first test, I only got 460mAh.
Then I decided to short the 2 & 3 pin wires (green & white) on the S3 cable together (attach them to each other). This gave me 1120mAh!
Next I took the tin-foil and wire braid from the S3 cable and tied them together with the negative lead on the S3 cable. This gave me 1220mAh!
Still not satisfied, I then cut down the 5' S3 cable and made it a 1.5' cable.
AND THIS RESULTED IN A FULL 1920mAh!!!! Right on.
That is exactly the same mAh as the stock S4 wall charger & cable combo give me. Very stoked about this. So now I'll do a nice clean install on the bike and then duplicate it for my car dock sometime soon. FULL CHARGE AHEAD!
Crxdc said:
Will it damage the phone to have a 3A charger plugged into it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it will be fine. The phone only draws 1900mAh. If the phone were drawing 3000mAh then there might be a problem.
All done and installed now. And working great!
Negative battery connection (I forgot to shrink tube it but will do that later).
Braided negative wire (~16 to 18awg?) running under gas tank to front of bike.
I wish I would have waited till I got black zip ties in. I hate white zip ties.
The braided wire at the right side of pic that goes up above the gas tank is the pos/neg wire lead that plus right into the phone.
2A inline fuse connecting via blade connector (sorry MC) to a previously used power-on-ignition wire.
This goes to (+) on the little black box.
Note the shrink tube over the braid over the crimp connector (wire goes to top-right of screen).
Phone sitting next to the phone dock I made out of a holster that came with my phone case.
You can see the braided/shrink tubed MicroUSB connector already plugged into the phone.
It's not showing a charge though, because the ignition key is not turned on.
Phone is inserted into stable dock (it will never fall out unless I crash hard).
Ignition is turned on and battery is charging!
And proof that it's charging at the full 1900mAh. Success!
CZ Eddie said:
All done and installed now. And working great!
Negative battery connection (I forgot to shrink tube it but will do that later).
Braided negative wire (~16 to 18awg?) running under gas tank to front of bike.
I wish I would have waited till I got black zip ties in. I hate white zip ties.
The braided wire at the right side of pic that goes up above the gas tank is the pos/neg wire lead that plus right into the phone.
2A inline fuse connecting via blade connector (sorry MC) to a previously used power-on-ignition wire.
This goes to (+) on the little black box.
Note the shrink tube over the braid over the crimp connector (wire goes to top-right of screen).
Phone sitting next to the phone dock I made out of a holster that came with my phone case.
You can see the braided/shrink tubed MicroUSB connector already plugged into the phone.
It's not showing a charge though, because the ignition key is not turned on.
Phone is inserted into stable dock (it will never fall out unless I crash hard).
Ignition is turned on and battery is charging!
And proof that it's charging at the full 1900mAh. Success!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome.
Hard wire phone charger and Bluetooth Receiver to car battery plan...
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
ebrowni said:
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks good to me. :good:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-USB-Ca...064?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51af639938
ebrowni said:
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead. I personally wouldn't wire anything directly to the battery, especially since you didn't mention an inline fuse. Find a switched 12v lead inside the car. Not only does this protect your phone, charger, and car, but it also means you don't have to run anything through the firewall, which is a pain.
You can either tie into the cig lighter wiring, or find something else (I used my clock circuit since it runs to a 10A fuse and is switched).
Caferacer said:
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead. I personally wouldn't wire anything directly to the battery, especially since you didn't mention an inline fuse. Find a switched 12v lead inside the car. Not only does this protect your phone, charger, and car, but it also means you don't have to run anything through the firewall, which is a pain.
You can either tie into the cig lighter wiring, or find something else (I used my clock circuit since it runs to a 10A fuse and is switched).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your clock circuit is switched?
I agree with the firewall being a pita, but I'm not a huge fan of tapping on to other circuits either. With nothing charging, what would be drawing any current? If there's anything, it would have to be minimal. It also allows you to charge a phone/device with the car not running, sometimes very handy (and a modification I've made before for just that reason). An inline fuse is also a must, good point!
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
MonkeyTime said:
Your clock circuit is switched?
I agree with the firewall being a pita, but I'm not a huge fan of tapping on to other circuits either. With nothing charging, what would be drawing any current? If there's anything, it would have to be minimal. It also allows you to charge a phone/device with the car not running, sometimes very handy (and a modification I've made before for just that reason). An inline fuse is also a must, good point!
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, my clock circuit has a switched lead to wake up the clock as well as a hard wired lead to retain the time. Both run to the same 10A fuse.
There is a small transformer in the converter and the receiver bluetooth will stay on. They have a small energy draw which is not negligible over a long period of time. At the very least I would include a dash mounted switch to completely shut the charger and receiver off. For instance I have a bluetooth OBD adapter (Not too much unlike your bluetooth receiver) that drained a 2 year old car battery over a week I left the car sitting while I was on vacation. For day to day driving it's not a problem but my OBD adapter isn't hardwired and I can just remove it when I know the car will be sitting.
Thanks
Caferacer said:
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oooh, good point! Makes sense to me. I have never done a mod to my car's audio system so I'll be paying a professional installer. I'm so glad to have this information before I shop around at the good places here and get some offers!
Thank you!
I was just curious, lol. Would the phone break or something? Thanks.
patsimeon said:
I was just curious, lol. Would the phone break or something? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oops, wrong section...Sorry! I don't know how to move or delete this. Anyway, my curiosity stays.
I think qi charging overrides USB charging, but it could be the other way around. Either way, the phone knows to deactivate one.
According to the battery monitor, wired charging (USB or A/C) overrides wireless charging. So, if you plug it in, it doesn't matter if you place it on the wireless charger or not.
I seem to recall someone at Google (on one of their product QA's for this phone) that even though it makes logical sense for the AC charger to take precedence (faster, less heat generation) but the QI charger is the one actually doing the charger.
I realize this contradicts what the battery status would indicate, but it is plausible that the indicator does not report it correctly.
Either way, the only time I can really see this being a factor for me even REMOTELY, is in the extremely rare event I have the phone plugged into my computer via USB, and sitting on my qi charger. But that almost never happens, I sync data to/from the phone over wifi just because, well, it's easier. It's not faster, but since it happens automatically it takes less effort.
In that case, I'd actually prefer the qi charger to work, since it's a faster charge than my USB port.
imagine the hilarity if both charging circuits worked though...sounds good in theory but I think we'd all have broken phones
I've plugged in my USB cable (hooked up to my computer via USB 3.0), while my phone was sitting on my Qi charger (nokia, 750mah), and the usb cable takes priority over the charge.
When wireless charging is in effect, you hear the NFC tone from the phone. Also the light on the charger turns on when its charging. It doesn't play when you lay a phone with USB plugged in, and the light doesn't turn on in front of the charger, so.
I'm pretty sure this would disrupt the space-time continuum.
xybur said:
I've plugged in my USB cable (hooked up to my computer via USB 3.0), while my phone was sitting on my Qi charger (nokia, 750mah), and the usb cable takes priority over the charge.
When wireless charging is in effect, you hear the NFC tone from the phone. Also the light on the charger turns on when its charging. It doesn't play when you lay a phone with USB plugged in, and the light doesn't turn on in front of the charger, so.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm that while setting on the wireless charger, the "charging" light is on on the charger, but if I plug the cable in, the light goes out. The wired charger is DEFINITELY overriding the wireless charger.
For people using OTG cables or external storage adapters on the microUSB slot they do require wireless charging to work while being "plugged in".
awesome question...I have a S5, which has a galaxy charging current app
does one exist for the nexus? if so, you could tell by the amps it is charging at