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SGS Carbon Fiber case mod

Hi, Just decided to take some 3M Carbon Fiber tape and apply them on my SGS case... The result is pretty good in my opinion. Calling it Galaxy S Carbon now Here goes the pictures. Sorry for bad english.
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I have no camera here to take pictures closed on the device, so don't ask for it
EDIT: Some finished better light condition pictures

very cool bro

Very nice. Saw a friend do this with his iPhone 4. Guess not everyone likes the glass back, who knew.

Same thing I´ve done
Indeed, I did it a bit more precisely

Woah, I'm really impressed by both your efforts. I didn't even think of doing this, but now...... I think I might look into it. Any tips for anything that could save me trouble down the track?
And Vln_Thomas: Did you measure out a piece beforehand and then stick it on or did you stick it on and then cut?
EDIT: Although, now that I think about it, I don't even know where I'd get carbon fibre tape. Australia sucks like that.

Vln_Thomas said:
Same thing I´ve done
Indeed, I did it a bit more precisely
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you do to make it so precisely? Appreciate

I´ve simply bought a 4*8 Inches sized Fibre tape.
Then i attached it on my backcover, heated the tape with a hair dryer and pulled it around the corners. When a part of the Cover was without folds, I let it cool down so that the tape cured and then cut a part of the fibre tape off.
Then I heated the cover again and the procedure started once more.
It took me for about 45 minutes and a very steady hand, even though a friend supported me.

That's awesome! Where did you buy the tape? I'm hoping that it was online...

Here : 3M™ DI-NOC™ CA-421 Carbon Folie
10*20cm are 4*8 Inches, enough for the Galaxy S
Greetings from Germany

Vln_Thomas said:
I´ve simply bought a 4*8 Inches sized Fibre tape.
Then i attached it on my backcover, heated the tape with a hair dryer and pulled it around the corners. When a part of the Cover was without folds, I let it cool down so that the tape cured and then cut a part of the fibre tape of.
Then I heated the cover again and the procedure started once more.
It took me for about 45 minutes and a very steady hand, even though a friend supported me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly the same here... My edges just didn't get perfect because i was afraid to break them... I was usign the hair drier and it looked like the back cover was going way too wobbly (i don't know the word opposit to "hard"). So pulled it as I could by the edges, wait to cool down and cut off the resting tape..

Nice mod man, and btw is that a tamiya tt-01e you have there in the background? haha

Adam01Rule said:
Nice mod man, and btw is that a tamiya tt-01e you have there in the background? haha
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha yeah, tt01 ED actually

oh man, your sgs looks cool tho! thumbs up!

Very cool mod.
But just a warning, the backcover usually gets really hot when the phone is charging while running demanding apps. So you might want to be careful doing that in case it is not releasing its heat buildups as easy anymore. Would be sad to have it overheat after making it look so awesome.

kblood said:
Very cool mod.
But just a warning, the backcover usually gets really hot when the phone is charging while running demanding apps. So you might want to be careful doing that in case it is not releasing its heat buildups as easy anymore. Would be sad to have it overheat after making it look so awesome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the warning but i don't think it can get any hotter.. i was already using a tpu full back cover, some extra tape will not kill it

No problem at all with overheating....
Same temperatures as before

Vln_Thomas said:
No problem at all with overheating....
Same temperatures as before
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess so, I just thought it might become a problem if getting rid of all that heat got harder. Mainly because the original gets very hot, and the phone once came up with a warning on mine about not charging the phone while using it so much, I think I was using it to watch a full HD video or something, that I had not bothered to convert to something more fitting to the SGS. But it is nice to use it as a portable media centre.

What a great idea!! Here's me probably bought about 6 different battery covers and cases and always got rid of them because they never fit properly, or if I find one i DO like then they get cracks or the paint wears off.
And this is using the original! Brilliant idea.
Does the tape make the sides of the cover wider than the phone? You know how some cheap badly fitting battery covers seems to stick out at the sides where they should join seamlessly?

Of course it´s a bit thicker, but it fits pretty well Much better than those rubbish Back-covers from Ebay
And to clarify it: There is no problem with overheating at my phone at all....
Battery temps are the same as without the tape so i guess CPU and everything else will be the same too
Anyway temperatures highly depend on the modem-file you use...

I've got (yet another) back cover on the way from eBay, but I think this one may fit just right after talking to the seller... but this carbon tape idea i love! I was thinking about sanding down my stock Samsung back because i love the fit and everything, its' just too damn slippery.... and paint would scratch off over time. but sanding it (if it could be done evenly) would fix that.
Might consider this idea though. I wonder what different types of tape there are.... hmmm....

Revive your Smart Phone from Water Damage!!

No one in the world has an intention to throw phone in water But by chance it happens.. So i read a lot and tried to find best possible solutions to revive phone after water damage. This may not help every phone but a last chance to get ur phone back to life
1.Take the phone out of the water as soon as possible: The plastic covers on cell phones are fairly tight, but water can enter the phone in a short period of time, perhaps only 20 seconds or less. Grab your phone quickly. Don't switch the phone on, as this can cause it to short circuit – if it has been in water, assume it needs drying immediately whether or not it is working. If you can't get to the phone in time, your best bet is to remove the battery while it is still under water. Water helps to dissipate heat from shorts that can damage the phone, so most damage occurs when the inside of the phone is wet and connected to a power source. This can go both ways, however. Being under water is more likely to short the battery to even more sensitive contacts, so be careful.
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2.Don't panic: Your phone will probably not be too damaged if you take it out of the water right away. A longer period of immersion, such as being in the washing machine cycle, will be cause for more alarm but it is still worth trying the following steps before giving up completely.
3.Remove the battery: This is one of the most important steps. Don't take time to think about it; electricity and water do not mix. Cutting power to your phone is a crucial first step in saving it. Many circuits inside the phone will survive immersion in water provided they are not attached to a power source when wet. To find out if the phone is truly water damaged, check the corner near where the battery is – there should be a white square or circle, with or without red lines. If this is pink or red, your phone has water damage.
4..Remove the SIM card if you have a GSM carrier: Some or all of your valuable contacts (along with other data) could be stored on your SIM. For many people, this could be more worth saving than the phone itself. SIM cards survive water damage well, but some of the following steps might damage it, so getting it out immediately makes good sense. Just pat it dry and leave it aside until you need to connect your phone to your cellular network. (This step does not apply to CDMA carriers such as Verizon, Alltel, US Cellular, Sprint, etc.)
5.Dry your phone: If there is even one drop of water left inside, it can ruin your phone by corroding it and making the wrong contact. Obviously you need to remove as much of the water as soon as possible, to prevent it from easing its way into the phone.Gently wipe off as much water as possible without dropping the phone. Avoid shaking or moving the phone excessively, so as to avoid moving water through it.Wipe down using a towel or paper towel. Ideally, try not to clog the wet paper in the gaps and grooves of the phone. Keep wiping, to gently remove as much of the remaining water as possible.
(Optional) If you pulled the battery out in time, cleaning the inside of your phone with cleaning alcohol (alcohol will displace the water) or contact spray might remedy the problem.Dry any remaining excess moisture by moving your dry or mitten-clad hand across the surface.
6.Use a vacuum cleaner if possible: If you want to try and suck the liquid out of the inner parts of the phone, try using a vacuum cleaner. Remove all residual moisture by drawing it away with a vacuum cleaner held over the affected areas for up to 20 minutes, in each accessible area (take it in turns with a friend). This is the fastest method and can completely dry out your phone and get it working in thirty minutes. However, unless the exposure to water was extremely short, it's not recommended to attempt to turn your phone on this soon. Be careful not to hold the vacuum too close to the phone, as a vacuum can create static electricity, which is even worse for the phone.
7.Use a substance with a high affinity for water to help draw out moisture: Leave the phone in a bowl or bag of uncooked rice overnight. The rice would absorb any remaining moisture. If available, it is preferable to use desiccant instead. Desiccant will absorb moisture better than rice.
8.Let the phone sit on absorbent towels, napkin, or other paper.: After removing the phone from the rice or desiccant (or if you were not able to use either method), place the phone on absorbent material. Remember that the goal is to evacuate all of the moisture and humidity, not to trap it or add even more.
9.Test your phone. After you have waited at least 24 hours, or longer if possible, check to see that everything on and in your cell phone is clean and looks dry. Re-attach the battery to the phone. Try turning it on. If your phone still does not work, try plugging it into its charger without the battery. If this works, you need a new battery.
10.Take the phone apart if your phone doesn't turn on at all. If you feel comfortable doing this, try taking it apart. First, make sure that you have all of the right parts and know exactly where they go. Be sure to put everything back in its proper place once finished. As you're disassembling it, pat each individual part dry with a small towel and use the vacuum cleaner once more on the crevices (but be careful not to accidentally suck up any loose parts – keep them well to one side, or stretch a length of old pantyhose over the nozzle). If this doesn't work, or you're too unsure about undoing your phone, get help from cell phone professionals.
Final thanks to wikipedia for such a useful info Hope it helps someone...
I know it has no relation with android. But couldnt find a better place to post..

Very nice guide
I hope I never have to use it XD
Sent from my SGH-T989 with Darthstalker

[HOW-TO][DIY] Depron/Polystyrol QI charging dock below 10$/€

Hi guys,
I bought myself a QI charging board for my Nexus 4 a few days ago, and decided to build a dock out of the Depron I normally use for RC planes. Now I want to share my build-process to you, as well as the blueprints I created and used.
If you want to build one, too, you need the following parts/tools:
1x A4 sheet of 3mm Depron
1x A4 sheet of 6mm Depron (or another 3mm if you don't get 6mm)
a SHARP cutter knife
UHU® Por Styropor-glue or similar glue
my attached blueprint as PDF and dxf for LibreCAD
and of course, a QI board, e.g. Amazon.de | Amazon.com
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After you printed the pages of attached PDF to an A4 paper, you can softly glue the first page onto the Depron sheet with some sort of spray glue, I used 3M SprayMount for it.
Wait with the second page, for now.
Then cut out the parts with the knife, be careful not to hurt yourself! The knife should be very sharp that the Depron gets cut cleanly, and doesn't rip.
Don't cut out the parts marked red in the blueprint, they should only be slit slightly. After you finished one part, you can safely remove the paper from it, use the knife to pull it away. Put away all parts except the ones with the red mark. Use the knife to remove a layer of about 1mm inside the red circles, look at the picture for a template.
You do the same at the position where we later store the cable, look again at the picture for a template.
Remove the coil from the board with a soldering iron, as the cable is too short currently. Solder the coil onto piece of cable then, don't connect the cable to the board by now!
Glueing time!
Begin with the parts which hold the QI coil: first put the coil into the backplate, then glue the front plate on it. My glue required me to put glue on both sides, wait 10 mins, and then stick them together.
While the backplate dries, glue the two triangles to the long rectangular, this will later keep the phone from sliding to the front/hold the phone at the charging plate.
After everything has dried, glue the front part to the backplate.
Glue the triangle to the backplate like this:
Now take one of the bottom plates, and cut a hole for the cable. I marked the position with a pencil, I suggest you doing the same. Glue the bottom plate to the other parts.
Now it's time for the second page of my PDF:
This page should either be glued to an 6mm Depron sheet, you then only need to cut out one of the parts, or you glue it to a sheet of 3mm Depron, and cut out both parts, which then will be glued together.
Glue the just created part on the remaining bottom plate from the first sheet, and lay the circuit board into it.
Cut the cable from the coil to a suitable length and solder it to the board. Be very careful while soldering, Depron melts easily, also make sure the cables don't get to hot! Then, you can glue the bottom case and the plate together, and you're basically finished!
In the end you can apply some finishing touches, like smoothening the borders/edges where you glued pieces together. You can of course also paint the dock in any color you like, I will maybe paint mine with a black acrylic dye later..
Result:
I hope you liked my little How-To, if you have any suggestions or ideas, feel free to comment.
//View all images: http://imgur.com/a/LJB6b

I am gonna try this.
Thanks

first of all, very nice charger. nice work and thank you for sharing.
now i have two questions.
1) how much time does it take to charge and how much ampers does that charger output?
2)does the charger circuit overheat in the base?
thank you in advance

ttheodorou said:
first of all, very nice charger. nice work and thank you for sharing.
now i have two questions.
1) how much time does it take to charge and how much ampers does that charger output?
2)does the charger circuit overheat in the base?
thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I charged the device from 20% to 100% this morning, and it took about 2½ hours (probably less) to charge, I didn't look on the clock though.. Ampere says about 600mA with a 2A ZTE charger connected to the board, I cannot use the Nexus 4 charger (Got an US version).
Overheating was my biggest fear, but it actually stays absolutely cool. When well positioned (like on the dock) it stays cool, far away from melting the Depron, while when I in before just laid the phone onto the coil outside the dock, it got pretty hot.
Ah, and next time, please don't quote the whole OP. Maybe even edit your post now.
Sent using my nexus⁴ running Euphoria 1.0 with Xposed and hells-Core B69-t4 L
Bitcoin donation address

Maxr1998 said:
Well, I charged the device from 20% to 100% this morning, and it took about 2½ hours (probably less) to charge, I didn't look on the clock though.. Ampere says about 600mA with a 2A ZTE charger connected to the board, I cannot use the Nexus 4 charger (Got an US version).
Overheating was my biggest fear, but it actually stays absolutely cool. When well positioned (like on the dock) it stays cool, far away from melting the Depron, while when I in before just laid the phone onto the coil outside the dock, it got pretty hot.
Ah, and next time, please don't quote the whole OP. Maybe even edit your post now.
Sent using my nexus⁴ running Euphoria 1.0 with Xposed and hells-Core B69-t4 L
Bitcoin donation address
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
force of habbit the quote. thanks for your answer. i will probably try to built this when i get my hands on the parts!! thanks again

ttheodorou said:
force of habbit the quote. thanks for your answer. i will probably try to built this when i get my hands on the parts!! thanks again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. Glad that you like it

Quick status update: I found out that the triangle stabilizing the charging pad isn't that robust, so I suggest either using a 6mm Depron for it or even two 6mm Depron triangles at the left and the right edge..
Sent using my nexus⁴ running Euphoria 1.0 with Xposed and hells-Core B69-t4 L
Bitcoin donation address

Looks incredibly great!
Definitely giving this a go when i have the time!

Plastic cover over the motherboard

Hi, I would like to ask. I have a HTC U11 mobile phone with which my battery is slowly running out and the phone lasted a maximum of 3-4 hours. I decided to order the battery and replace it myself, because it is not complicated. I managed to remove the back cover of the phone by warming it with a hair dryer and then circling the sides of the phone with a regular plastic thin card and the cover came loose, so I went to take it off. After removing the cover, I needed to unscrew the plastic cover that covers the motherboard and connectors to disconnect the battery. Unfortunately, the plastic cover was screwed in with very small screws, which I could not unscrew. Since it wasn't screwed in some extra tight, I managed to remove the cover with the screws. Then I disconnected the battery, removed it, and connected a new battery. The problem was that when I clicked the plastic cover again and then wanted to close the phone completely with the back cover, it didn't work and there was a big gap and the back cover just didn't hold. When I took the plastic cover off the motherboard, the back cover went to close beautifully. So I dripped glue in there and glued the back cover to it. Everything works as it should, but I couldn't help but wonder if anything bothered that the motherboard cover wasn't there. Thank you.
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danfousak said:
Hi, I would like to ask. I have a HTC U11 mobile phone with which my battery is slowly running out and the phone lasted a maximum of 3-4 hours. I decided to order the battery and replace it myself, because it is not complicated. I managed to remove the back cover of the phone by warming it with a hair dryer and then circling the sides of the phone with a regular plastic thin card and the cover came loose, so I went to take it off. After removing the cover, I needed to unscrew the plastic cover that covers the motherboard and connectors to disconnect the battery. Unfortunately, the plastic cover was screwed in with very small screws, which I could not unscrew. Since it wasn't screwed in some extra tight, I managed to remove the cover with the screws. Then I disconnected the battery, removed it, and connected a new battery. The problem was that when I clicked the plastic cover again and then wanted to close the phone completely with the back cover, it didn't work and there was a big gap and the back cover just didn't hold. When I took the plastic cover off the motherboard, the back cover went to close beautifully. So I dripped glue in there and glued the back cover to it. Everything works as it should, but I couldn't help but wonder if anything bothered that the motherboard cover wasn't there. Thank you.View attachment 5261623
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had several of these fully apart numerous times ,, I have never run across this issue, I know the mb cover kind of snaps into place and can be tricky, the only issue with the mb cover missing is i believe the copper strip is used for the nfc part of the phone, with that missing I dont think it will work., and depending on the type of glue you used, if you need to pull the back cover off again you will have to be very careful with prying it back off as it wont be as forgiving and you could crack the glass back cover. Dont ask how I know!! lol,, hth

hammered58 said:
I have had several of these fully apart numerous times ,, I have never run across this issue, I know the mb cover kind of snaps into place and can be tricky, the only issue with the mb cover missing is i believe the copper strip is used for the nfc part of the phone, with that missing I dont think it will work., and depending on the type of glue you used, if you need to pull the back cover off again you will have to be very careful with prying it back off as it wont be as forgiving and you could crack the glass back cover. Dont ask how I know!! lol,, hth
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These phones really don't have any parts that aren't functional in some way. If you don't use nfc I'd leave it be. Personally I never do... who knows you may even increase the signal gain a bit
Always use OEM parts and reassemble exactly as it was... in the future.

Watch frame broken: What type of plastic is it made of? Which glue is best?

So my watch frame had a lug break off it. I figured I would be able to glue it back on however certain types of plastics can be very difficult to glue. I assumed it would be some type of Polyethylene, polypropylene, or ABS. I used an epoxy resin initially which failed. I then used a regular cheapo super glue (cleaning the surface with IPA first.)
The super glue worked great for a few months however i notice it starting to crack change it color from clear to yellow/white.
I recently had to replace my battery and the lug broke off again when removing the back cover.
So now I am back to square one. If i can understand what the frame housing is made of I can pick the best glue/primer.

mrlb said:
So my watch frame had a lug break off it. I figured I would be able to glue it back on however certain types of plastics can be very difficult to glue. I assumed it would be some type of Polyethylene, polypropylene, or ABS. I used an epoxy resin initially which failed. I then used a regular cheapo super glue (cleaning the surface with IPA first.)
The super glue worked great for a few months however i notice it starting to crack change it color from clear to yellow/white.
I recently had to replace my battery and the lug broke off again when removing the back cover.
So now I am back to square one. If i can understand what the frame housing is made of I can pick the best glue/primer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as I'm aware it isn't plastic it's actually ceramic, in all honesty it's a high end face, normally found on high end running watches.
As for a swap out, no idea bud. Are you still in warranty? Would Huawei do a patch up for you for a price? Can't be that much

dladz said:
As far as I'm aware it isn't plastic it's actually ceramic, in all honesty it's a high end face, normally found on high end running watches.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks dladz. The watch dial that goes around the screen is the ceramic. But the actual body, the sides where the buttons are and where the watch strap connects the lugs is plastic.
dladz said:
As for a swap out, no idea bud. Are you still in warranty? Would Huawei do a patch up for you for a price? Can't be that much
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm 4 years since i purchased so no warranty. For about $35 USD you can buy a aliexpress OEM replacement housing but i decided to use super glue.
The plastic is definitely some kind of Polyethylene, polypropylene, or ABS. I used IPA alcohol to clean the surface and allow the glue to bind better. I used an industrial super glue. It's been holding strong so far the past week so we'll see how that goes.

mrlb said:
Thanks dladz. The watch dial that goes around the screen is the ceramic. But the actual body, the sides where the buttons are and where the watch strap connects the lugs is plastic.
I'm 4 years since i purchased so no warranty. For about $35 USD you can buy a aliexpress OEM replacement housing but i decided to use super glue.
The plastic is definitely some kind of Polyethylene, polypropylene, or ABS. I used IPA alcohol to clean the surface and allow the glue to bind better. I used an industrial super glue. It's been holding strong so far the past week so we'll see how that goes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice one.
I'd still reach out they may offer a cheap price.

It's probably easier to replace it as a part or in whole
You need to know what you're gluing!!!
Is it a thermal plastic or a thermosetting polymer? Polypropylene is notoriously hard to glue. Polycarbonates can be solvent bonded with tetrahydrofurane.
Forget super glue. Junk.
If it's a high stress load area it will be hard to permanently repair it. It should be cleaned and maybe roughened with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to give it better surface area.
Get all the old glues off of it!
Clean/degrease with anhydrous isopropyl alcohol. Dry completely. Do not expose LCD displays to this or any solvent, it will poison them.
Many times urethane epoxies are the best choice.
Most specialty epoxies are expensive and very effective if used correctly. This is a urethane epoxy that is slightly flexible but rigid in a thin bonding layer. Its flexibility enhances it's strength. It sets up very fast, about 60-120 seconds working time.
3M Scotch-Weld Urethane Adhesive DP601NS, Gray, 48.5 mL Duo-Pak​$15.99
Use on only plastics/materials specified by 3m.
Choose the proper 3m product. If unsure this one is a good bet.
i used it to make a permanent repair on my Khyber Pass Mountain boot, leather to urethane sole. A very tough repair as it's on a high loading area. 5 months still holding.
Note, I transfer out of the original Duo-Pak into separate syringes. The Duo-Pak is a one time use only that needs additional equipment.

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Thanks for the detailed input @blackhawk especially about 3M Scotch-Weld Urethane Adhesive DP601NS this was the sort of specialized glue I was looking for!
I super glued it about a week ago and it's been holding strong so far. If it fails I'll try the Urethane Adhesive.
I used IPA a primer to clean and activate the surface. The plastic was already roughed up by the way it tore.

mrlb said:
Thanks for the detailed input @blackhawk especially about 3M Scotch-Weld Urethane Adhesive DP601NS this was the sort of specialized glue I was looking for!
I super glued it about a week ago and it's been holding strong so far. If it fails I'll try the Urethane Adhesive.
I used IPA a primer to clean and activate the surface. The plastic was already roughed up by the way it tore.
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You are welcome.
Hopefully it will hold. About the only thing I use super glue for is lacerations like Dermabond.
If you seal it in the first couple minutes and don't get in the wound it works very well. It can be healed almost completely in a 2-3 days, the glue just falls off then. Stitches in a tube.
Otherwise its been a disappointment for industrial applications.
If it doesn't hold redoing it will be a pain. The right adhesive the first time yields the best results. You'll need the somehow remove all of the residue from both surfaces. You need to minimize the gap for best results.
I got flak for posting links here to sellers; one numbskull thought I was a software salesperson.
PM me if you need the source as some vendor's prices are outrageous.

blackhawk said:
Hopefully it will hold. About the only thing I use super glue for is lacerations like Dermabond.
If you seal it in the first couple minutes and don't get in the wound it works very well. It can be healed almost completely in a 2-3 days, the glue just falls off then. Stitches in a tube.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Amazing hahaha!!
blackhawk said:
I got flak for posting links here to sellers; one numbskull thought I was a software salesperson.
PM me if you need the source as some vendor's prices are outrageous.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really lol a senior member with over 4,755 messages has infiltrated XDA as a secret software sales person. Clever. Take my money sir!