Hi everyone
I managed recently to broke my simcard reader on my lte tablet by storing my empty simcard adapter (microSIM to nanoSIM) in my sim slot. When i tried to remove the adapter it got stuck on some pins inside and broke some of them off as you could see on the pictures below
After i had to search and order the right simreader which is : https://www.mouser.ch/ProductDetail/Alps-Alpine/SCGD1B0209?qs=raqtESnDWsCnTRfNgBUKsg==
I desoldered the broken slot which wasnt too easy because it needs a lot off heat ( in my case 500-550° Celsius that enough heat reach the small tip i used) and even with the most possible caution i lost one of the attachement solderspots as you can see too on one of the pictures. To lose the pins i added some fresh solder over all the pins and heated it up equally so that i could carefully lift the whole black ground plate from one side to the other.
After this its very important to clean all the old solder and add fresh one.
To install the slot back on i soldered first the attachement spots on while checking the pins
are fit to the right spot. Then i soldered the pins one by one with the help of flux.
The port is now working again but i really have to say its not a easy job a beginner can do with basic equipment its way more complicated than de- and resolder the battery cable
Here i a video that helped me a lot before i started my repair:
I hope this little Guide and Warning is helpful for you
Related
I took my TF700 apart last night as the digitizer was not working following a drop and assumed that a cable had come loose.
Anyway, made a mistake while doing it.
I could not disconnect the cables between the LCD and digitizer and the connectors.
I since realise that there is a small white bar that you flip up. I presume I have "broken" the connectors or something as the tablet works fine when plugged into HDMI, but I cannot use the digitizer and the screen does not come on.
Any suggestions? Most that I have found have suggested "throw away and buy again as spares too much", but wondered if anyone had a bright idea.
I have found why the digitizer was not working, there is corrosion over the SD card and around the top connector to the digitizer nearest the SD card slot. It looks like mositure/drip got into the slot and may have shorted something? I have cleaned off the surface debris as much as can.
Anyway this would not impact the LCD which still displayed (until connector concern.)
Following that, is anyone getting rid of their TF700 and would be interested in selling it at a sensible price?
Thanks
If you didn't pull that white bar off or break it, it could possibly be that you have not properly inserted the ribbon cable and fastened the connector. I would open it again and check this before I did anything else.
Most of them work like this:
Open it by pulling at each end of the white bar until it moves foward a little, then gently lift it to about 45 degeres and the cable slides out with a slight tug. Putting the cable back in is the reverse. That bar has to be loose and at about 45 degrees to get the cable back inside the connector. Make sure the end of the cable is in straight and close the connector. Cable should be tight and not come out if you gently tug it.
The OP here may be willing to sell a likely brick:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2769818
flhthemi said:
If you didn't pull that white bar off or break it, it could possibly be that you have not properly inserted the ribbon cable and fastened the connector. I would open it again and check this before I did anything else.
Most of them work like this:
Open it by pulling at each end of the white bar until it moves foward a little, then gently lift it to about 45 degeres and the cable slides out with a slight tug. Putting the cable back in is the reverse. That bar has to be loose and at about 45 degrees to get the cable back inside the connector. Make sure the end of the cable is in straight and close the connector. Cable should be tight and not come out if you gently tug it.
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Click to collapse
Thank you for the suggestions, I have tried that, but none of the 3 connectors (2 for digitizer, 1 for LCD) respond. I connected it to the HDMI, but cannot see the screen respondin to my finger (maybe that is broken also ha ha)
Is it more likely the connector, or cable is broken? I suspect connector pins to be honest. Abit small for me to see though.
Digitizer or Ribbon Cable or ZIF socket ??? How to tell ???
dilfred said:
Thank you for the suggestions, I have tried that, but none of the 3 connectors (2 for digitizer, 1 for LCD) respond. I connected it to the HDMI, but cannot see the screen respondin to my finger (maybe that is broken also ha ha)
Is it more likely the connector, or cable is broken? I suspect connector pins to be honest. Abit small for me to see though.
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Click to collapse
Greetings!
Just curious how this problem worked out? I too have a TF700 with a working screen but no digitizer. Some time back during my first battery replacement (another story) I tried (we ARE a curious species you know) to open the ZIF socket for the digitizer cable (has twin, gold ribbons) and accidentally flipped the wrong side... needless to say it did NOT flip open. The black plastic top of the socket broke off exposing a little of the ribbon. Everything still worked fine so I counted myself lucky and closed her up and all was good.
Unfortunately I'm never willing to leave sleeping dogs alone and I attempted to replace the 2nd dud battery with yet another one (don't ever trust those "Brand New" eBay batteries)! This time I must have accidentally pulled on a ribbon cable a bit too much. When I closed up the tablet I ended up with a tablet just like yours... everything works great... just not with my finger! I opened it up AGAIN... to replace the original battery... you never can tell you know... while I was in there I tried reseating the digitizer cables (both sockets)... no luck.
So... now what... I'm hearing that some folks had their digitizers fail after about a year anyway... mine is two years old... so my digitizer COULD have just failed... or it COULD have been my messing with the ribbons and/or ZIF connectors. How to tell ??? Is there ANYTHING one can do short of ordering a replacement ZIF socket PC board ($25 eBay) and / or ribbon? With a two year old device I'm reluctant to spend much on repair... ASUS wanted $184 to fix it... and buying an eBay digitizer or ZIF board on the blind chance that one or the other is the problem seems a bit risky.... to say nothing about the chance of mucking up the heat separation of the LCD/digitizer! What's a digital explorer to do???
The only thing I was unable to determine was where does the forked golden digitizer ribbon cable GO on the glass end. Does THAT end ever come loose? How does it attach to the digitizer? Anything I could "fix" on that end?
Micro sim adaptor got stuck in the sim tray of my 2 year old nexus 5 (yes stupid mistake) but I very carefully followed instructions by droid life and recovered the sim tray. But now phone doesn't recognize the sim anymore...
I am sure either the pins are damaged or have loosened leading to no contact with sim... I think my options are:
1. Try to add a piece of shim to the sim tray to create better contact - should this go above the sim or below?
2. Dissemble the phone following ifixit videos and try to solder the broken pins - i don't have any soldering equipment and its been ages I did something requiring such precision
3. Buy a new motherboard sim tray and replace - does this also need soldering?
4. Buy a broken nexus 5 and do the same as above
5. Or use the phone as an android pod.
Any suggestions appreciated!
I have zero fine soldering skills. I called a few cell repair shops and, even though they will replace power buttons and USB ports, none would replace the sim card tray because there are very fine components and solder points on the other side of the sim tray. Had to buy a phone with a busted screen to use in the phone.
audit13 said:
I have zero fine soldering skills. I called a few cell repair shops and, even though they will replace power buttons and USB ports, none would replace the sim card tray because there are very fine components and solder points on the other side of the sim tray. Had to buy a phone with a busted screen to use in the phone.
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Thanks for replying. Did you follow any particular guide to replace the motherboard + sim tray like iFixit teardown etc.?
I am not an electronics engineer nor a DIY expert and hence a bit worried that I might damage something else in the process and make the phone even more useless...
Replacing the motherboard was very easy. The sim tray, wi-fi chip, memory, etc. are all attached to the motherboard. The sim tray and motherboard are not separate pieces.
It's very easy once you watch a few Youtube videos about removing the plastic back, removing screws, etc.
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
tjmethod said:
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
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Click to collapse
I got the same issue, and yesterday I just unplugged and replugged the battery connector which solved my issue.
But I believe this is temporarly and that I would do a better repair if I do solder.
Thanks for providing pictures.
Ya unfortunately the wire connectors inside the white plastic connector aren't making a tight pinch on the terminals and there is no way to close the distance without getting the white connector out of the way. You could remove the white plastic connector and pinch each one on with needle nose pliers but you might as well solder them on if you go that far. This is why people are having problems replacement tablets- its faulty battery connectors…
luffy092 said:
I got the same issue, and yesterday I just unplugged and replugged the battery connector which solved my issue.
But I believe this is temporarly and that I would do a better repair if I do solder.
Thanks for providing pictures.
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Click to collapse
tjmethod said:
Ya unfortunately the wire connectors inside the white plastic connector aren't making a tight pinch on the terminals and there is no way to close the distance without getting the white connector out of the way. You could remove the white plastic connector and pinch each one on with needle nose pliers but you might as well solder them on if you go that far. This is why people are having problems replacement tablets- its faulty battery connectors…
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Click to collapse
The battery connector with 6 wires only a minor source of flickering screen. You don't need to cut and solder it to the male connector.
The loose connector can be fixed by pushing the opening tip closer like this
Samsung fix it by adding the silver conductive glue like this
The major problem is from the male connector soldered to the mainboard. From my professional experiences, 90 % from cracked male connector ( black with 6 pins and soldered to mainboard ) , only 10% causing by loose female battery connector ( white with 6 wires ) : Samsung just simply use a conductive glue.
Trust me, I have fixed not a few but hundreds of them with this problem.
Great pictures! Well it looks like I am one of the lucky ones- glad I was able to even solder those wires on to the male connector terminals. I did check them- they were solid- I wouldn't have been able to have done it without the Carson LED Magnavisor- its got 4 different interchangeable power lenses. I dont think my tip would have been small enough to heat up the solder on the male connector termials- but I totally believe you most are cracked- glad I havent had a problem since. I have like 5 note tablets and the xe7000t1a windows slate in fact almost everything I own is Samsung including the 17" i7 chronos notebook I'm typing this on. So do you do this sort of thing in the line of business?
Beut said:
The battery connector with 6 wires only a minor source of flickering screen. You don't need to cut and solder it to the male connector.
The loose connector can be fixed by pushing the opening tip closer like this
Samsung fix it by adding the silver conductive glue like this
The major problem is from the male connector soldered to the mainboard. From my professional experiences, 90 % from cracked male connector ( black with 6 pins and soldered to mainboard ) , only 10% causing by loose female battery connector ( white with 6 wires ) : Samsung just simply use a conductive glue.
Trust me, I have fixed not a few but hundreds of them with this problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tjmethod said:
Great pictures! Well it looks like I am one of the lucky ones- glad I was able to even solder those wires on to the male connector terminals. I did check them- they were solid- I wouldn't have been able to have done it without the Carson LED Magnavisor- its got 4 different interchangeable power lenses. I dont think my tip would have been small enough to heat up the solder on the male connector termials- but I totally believe you most are cracked- glad I havent had a problem since. I have like 5 note tablets and the xe7000t1a windows slate in fact almost everything I own is Samsung including the 17" i7 chronos notebook I'm typing this on. So do you do this sort of thing in the line of business?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to work at Samsung Repair Center, fixed more than thousands of them
That wouldnt be Intelisol in Fort Worth Tx?
QUOTE=Beut;65498191]I used to work at Samsung Repair Center, fixed more than thousands of them[/QUOTE]
tjmethod said:
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself
I would check all posts/ threads/ responses from 'Beut'- he's a former samsumg repairman who's repaired thousands of these
[QQUOTE=chumvi;65509217]I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself[/QUOTE]
chumvi said:
I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Videos won't help if you don't have experiences in soldering. There are many components close to these six pins, without experience and proper solder tip you will cause solder bridges on mainboard. I need a 10x microscope to see clearly what I am doing. You should bring it to a professional , they won't charge much for a 5 to 10 minute re work.
This is the original battery connector with hairline cracks
Then a re soldered battery connector which has more solders added to secure the connections
An experienced tech will routine re work on these two battery connectors first, even the screen is not flickering, because sooner or later it will come back with this problem.
Hi guys,
I didn't want to post in an old thread, but I'm still having trouble with my Note. I took it to a "Pro" to solder the connectors down because the whole thing came off the board somehow. The "Pro" was pretty useless. He left solder all over the place and the tablet was shorting when I picked it up. So I took it back and the photo shows what I ended up with after 4 attempts at fixing the flickering. At this point I've decided to dump the "Pro" and solder the wires directly to the circuit pads. Only one problem - Solder will not stick to the pads no matter what I do. I've tried heating the pads with the iron before applying the solder but it wont stick. I've cleaned the site with alcohol and took off the sticky residue left by the "Pro".
Can anyone see an issue in the photo which might be causing the problem?
Thanks for the help.
---------- Post added at 01:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 AM ----------
Hi guys,
I didn't want to post in an old thread, but I'm still having trouble with my Note. I took it to a "Pro" to solder the connectors down because the whole thing came off the board somehow. The "Pro" was pretty useless. He left solder all over the place and the tablet was shorting when I picked it up. So I took it back and the photo shows what I ended up with after 4 attempts at fixing the flickering. At this point I've decided to dump the "Pro" and solder the wires directly to the circuit pads. Only one problem - Solder will not stick to the pads no matter what I do. I've tried heating the pads with the iron before applying the solder but it wont stick. I've cleaned the site with alcohol and took off the sticky residue left by the "Pro".
Can anyone see an issue in the photo which might be causing the problem?
Thanks for the help.
Hi from Spain, i not see the flickering on use, but whem was power off and i chargue apears a flash every 3 or 4 seconds... All time¿Can be the same problem?
Thanks
Hello! So I have an Nexus 5 D820 and after changing my battery in some areas of my city or my country I don't have any reception. While writing this I popped the battery cover and applied a little pressure with electrical tape to the black wire which I believe is for the reception but I can't tell if I fixed it because most of the time I have reception. So what should I change to fix my reception - only the little black wire or the hole bottom PCB with the plastic cover ? Thanks in advance!
Since it's working at some places it's probably not your device's fault that it can't connect at some other places. Nevertheless:
To change your battery you must have removed the motherboard cover to remove the battery cable. The GSM antenna is on the motherboard cover and is connected by simply touching 2 small conductive pieces on the motherboard (with the phone facing down and the motherboard cover removed, these should be at the top right area of the motherboard). There are also 2 wires (along with a big wire strip) that connect the 2 bottom edges of the motherboard to an extra little board below the battery (where the USB port and other components are). Those are antenna extensions, one of these is probably the black wire you are talking about. The right one is for 3G and the left one is for 4G (with the phone facing down), don't remember the colors. If you have a problem with data connection and not normal cell reception, check those 2 wires. The 3G and 4G antennas are on the black plastic cover of that extra little board and connect to it with a similar way the GSM antenna connects to the motherboard (each one has 2 gold flexible metal pins). You didn't need to remove that plastic cover to replace the battery, but if you did, remove it again and check the connector and those gold pins.
Whatever you do: NEVER DO ::ANYTHING:: WITHOUT DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY (xp talking).
Shutdown the device normally, remove back cover, remove motherboard cover, disconnect the battery cable, and THEN do whatever you have to do.
The screwdriver is usually metal and can short things. You really don't want to short something on the motherboard with the battery connected.
Thanks! I started losing signal after I replaced my battery(before that no problems whatsoever), but couple of days ago I opened the phone again and applied a little pressure to the both wires and I hope it's fixed. Also today I'm going to the place where I'm losing signal and I will find out.
Hi all,
It's been two years I have been using my Z5 Compact, and the MicroUSB connector is hardly usable now.
I of course tried several cables.
It is very difficult to charge the telephone. I don't know exactly what the problem is. I tried cleaning with a dry air bomb (for keyboards etc.), but to no avail. Seems like a bad contact.
Is it possible to use electrical parts liquid cleaner to properly clean the USB contacts?
Anybody having the same experience?
MF
I had the same problem, usb cable didn't fit in entirely.
Culprit was a piece from the inside of my jeans pocket was pushed deep inside my usb port. It was pretty much stuck in there but once I got it out the problems where solved and I switched to magnetic usb cable to prevent this.
I got it out using very tiny pliers and a magnifying loupe.
Hope this helps..
Regards
Mine is going to die sometime, soon, too! i already bought a new one on ebay, laying ready to be installed here! In a couple of days i´ll take a hair dryer and then i´ll peel of the back cover and replace that broken connector
update: 17th of june!
Just wanted to tell you guys, it worked! I just replaced the USB Connector with the one i bought on Ebay, price was around 4 Euro or so, not much i think
It was rather easy, as i already own the needed tools (a very very small philips screw driver, and a tool to go underneath the back cover and a hairdryer)
took about 20 minutes or less!
Just use the hairddryer to heat up the back cover, then use the special tool (or a thin knife?) to loose the back cover and peel it off
then you have to remove 2 screws on the lower part, then you can remove some sort of a "bar" over the usb connector! next you have to lift the "motherboard" on the lower part (yes it moves down to the usb connector) but first disconnect the usb connector! then pull out the broken usb, shove the new one in and do all the above in reverse order!