Related
I’m going to try to consolidate a lot of battery information in this thread and prioritize it. This is a WIP.
1) Check your charger first!!!
2) Fix wakelocks
3) Remove bloatware
4) Replace your battery
5) Try a new ROM
The Charger Problem
Using certain chargers causes a wakelock on your phone that prevents it from going into deep sleep. This results in roughly 10% battery attrition, regardless of activity or screen on time. Before you try anything else, you should test each of your chargers and make sure they aren’t causing a wakelock.
Do you have this problem?
Install CPU Spy from the Play Store. Open the app to see how much time your phone spends in each CPU state. If Deep Sleep is a very small percentage, or Deep Sleep doesn’t even appear, you have a problem with your charger. Follow one of the methods below to test each of your chargers.
Charger Test App
I've created an app with the sole function of reporting your charge type and current. See the thread below to download and install the app.
UPDATE: This app is now available on the Play Store for easier installation: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jellisapps.srchargertest
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=29451951#post29451951
Testing with only CPU Spy:
1) Plug your phone into the charger and turn the screen off. Leave it charging for about 30 seconds. (Don't do this with a fully charged phone, as I don't know how that affects the testing)
2) With the screen still off, unplug the phone from the charger.
3) Open CPU Spy, hit the menu button, and "Reset Timers". Turn the screen off.
4) Let the phone sit idle for a few minutes with the screen off.
5) Turn the phone back on and refresh the timers in CPU Spy (menu button again).
If Deep Sleep doesn’t appear in the list of CPU states, your phone is experiencing a wakelock brought on by the charger. It’s probably spent the majority of time at 192mhz or 384mhz.
To further confirm this, leave your phone unplugged, restart it, leave the screen off for a few minutes, and then check CPU spy again. You should now see it going into Deep Sleep.
It’s rumored that some USB cables can also cause this problem, even if used with a good charger. I have not experienced this with the cables I’ve used.
Testing with Terminal Emulator:
This method will not show the wakelock, but it will show you what charging mode the phone is in. Because I’ve identified the problematic charging mode that creates the wakelock, this method can be used to test your chargers fairly quickly. (Thanks to pj_rage)
If you have Tasker, you can download and import my Tasker profile that will check the charger when it’s connected and toast you with the charger type. It will also pop a notification if the charger will create a wakelock. Profile: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jewrvalkc7agtoz/Charger_Type.prf.xml (hat tip to Note-owner G8351427 for the Tasker idea)
1) Plug your phone into the charger you want to test.
2) Use your favorite terminal emulator (ROM Toolbox has one) to run:
cat /sys/class/power_supply/battery/charging_source
3) Look for your results:
0= No charger connected.
1= USB Normal Charge. There is 5VDC on pins 1&4 and data current is detected on 2&3
2= AC Fast Charge. AC Fast Charge. There is 5VDC on pins 1&4, and pins 2&3 are BRIDGED.
6= AC Regular Charge. This is the charge state that creates the wakelock. There is 5VDC on pins 1&4, and pins 2&3 are OPEN/DISCONNECTED.
Thanks to SR-owner nighthawkmckenzie for additional information on charging states.
Known Workarounds:
If you can't use a proper charger, there are two known workarounds.
1) Restart your phone after charging. This is what I did for a while, until I found one of my chargers that works with the phone.
2) Plug your phone into a "Type 2" charger. If your phone is plugged into a Type 6 charger, it creates the wakelock upon disconnection. But if you plug in a Type 2, even briefly, it clears the wakelock. For example, I would charge my phone overnight on a Type 6 charger (leaving a wakelock), and then just plug it into my car charger (Type 2) for a few seconds on the way to work to eliminate the wakelock.
3) Mod your charger to bridge pins 2&3. Instructions can be found here.
4) Buy one of these adapters. I have not tested this, but Note users say that it increases the charger current for chargers without pins 2&3 bridged. Theoretically, that means it should be recognized as 2 instead of 6. Someone let me know if you try it and verify effectiveness.
5) Turn on your screen before unplugging the phone. Some users report that this works. I've been unable to get it to work for me. Try it with your charger using my testing steps above if you'd like. (This workaround is courtesy of Note-owner ultravorx)
Why This Happens:
Thanks to pj_rage's research and nighthawkmckenzie's help putting the pieces together. As stated above, the Skyrocket and the Note detect if pins 2&3 are bridged or not. It seems that, for chargers to be Apple certified, they must not bridge pins 2&3. These chargers don't cause a big problem for most phones, but they do for ours. It lowers the mA current and causes a wakelock that persists after the charger is unplugged. The wakelock I usually notice is sdio_al, which seems like it's related to I/O on the SD card. Perhaps detecting a cable connected without pins 2&3 bridged, the phone is preparing for data, then fails to terminate the wakelock.
Here is a really good thread by pj_rage with information on chargers and the Note
My phone takes FOREVER to charge!
Not all chargers are created equal. Some of them enable quick charging, while some of them do not. Plug your charger in, open your Terminal Emulator, and run this command:
cat /sys/class/power_supply/battery/batt_current_adc
Divide the result by 10 to determine the mA rate of your charger. If the result (after dividing) is close to 1000, quick charging is enabled. If the result is close to 5000, quick charging does not work with your charger.
Wakelocks That Destroy Your Battery Life
If you're not familiar with wakelocks, they're basically processes that run on your phone that prevent it from going into deep sleep. Deep sleep is the mode your phone should go into when you're not using it so that it can conserve battery. Some wakelocks are intentional, while others can be the result of rogue apps or system processes.
For an excellent and thorough guide to Wakelocks and the Skyrocket, check out this thread started by T.J. Bender.
To effectively find your wakelocks, you'll need BetterBatteryStats. It's free to us XDA users. You can get it in this thread. Read that OP for more information about wakelocks.
AudioOut_1 - Hat tip to T.J. Bender's post in this thread for information on AudioOut_1.
Settings -> Sound
Turn keytone, touch sounds, screen lock sound and vibrate on screen tap off.
sdio_al - This is the wakelock created by your charger, detailed above in this OP.
Clean Out the Bloat
Some of the bloatware and unnecessary apps on our phones can drain battery. Here is a good thread by Earthdog that is stickied in the Themes and Apps forum that tells you what apps are safe to freeze or uninstall. I really recommend you freeze the apps in Titanium Backup and run for a few days before you uninstall. This way you won’t accidentally uninstall something your phone needs to remain stable.
We’re Gonna Need a Bigger Battery
Many Skyrocket owners (myself included) have discovered that the Verizon Galaxy Nexus extended battery works pretty well in the Skyrocket. The Skyrocket’s battery is 1850mAh, while the Nexus extended battery is 2100mAh.
Here’s the thread discussing the battery.
It costs less than $25 at a Verizon store and will add over 10% to your battery capacity. The battery is also made by Samsung and has built in NFC, just like our stock battery.
Some people report filing down the battery so that it will fit in their Skyrocket. I followed the advice of user stevenlong and took the sticker off of the outside of my extended battery. Picture of his battery is here. After this modification, it fits almost perfect. The slight bulge is not noticeable unless you’re looking for it (that’s what she said).
The Stock ROM Sucks
If you’re still unrooted and on stock Gingerbread, I feel sorry for you. What the heck are you doing on this forum if you’re scared to flash a new ROM?
This guide would be way too long if I tried to explain the battery improvements you might see by stepping up to the Stock ICS leak. You’ll probably see even more improvement if you flash one of the many custom ROMs in the Development section.
If you’re dedicated to getting the most out of your phone, spend a weekend reading the ever-loving sh*t out of the stickies in the Development forum. Only after you have read those threads and feel like you have a good understanding, backup your phone and flash a new ROM on it. As long as you’ve backed up properly, you can flash between several ROMs and choose the one that works best for you.
If you have any questions about the ROM you’re trying to flash, ask in the Q&A forum. Don’t start out by asking in the ROM’s threads, unless you’re POSITIVE that the question has not already been answered in the thread or the stickies. You did search first, right?
I can only speak to my own experience, but SKY ICS by seanzscreams has been AMAZING for battery life. I’ve really wanted to try some of the other ROMs, because they look good as well, but SKY ICS has been so good that it’s hard to think of using anything else. Try them all and see which one you like the best. Don't forget to donate a few bucks through the donate button for your favorite ROM's developer!
Good reference guide from entropy
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1308030
[REF] Known identified battery drainers
Sent from my SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
jivy26 said:
Good reference guide from entropy
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1308030
[REF] Known identified battery drainers
Sent from my SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That guide seems to cover Wifi and BT drain issues with the GS2. I'm not sure how similar our Wifi and BT is to theirs. Our phone hardware is closer to the T-Mobile GS2 hardware than the AT&T.
In my experience, our phone and the AT&T Note have the charger issue. I just tested my wife's AT&T GS2 and it does not have the problem. My problem charger that gives me a wakelock (and is reported as type 6) does not give her a wakelock and is reported as charger type 2.
I'm editing the OP as I discover more and more information and perform various tests today.
I think I've discovered that the wakelock is ALWAYS caused by using an iPhone certified charger (or one that the Skyrocket thinks is iPhone certified). To be certified for iPhone, the charger must include a special circuit that identifies it as such.
I also created a Tasker profile to easily test your charger. The profile reports your charger type when you plug it in and creates a notification if your charger will cause a wakelock.
I would really appreciate if some people can test these theories out. In my experience, chargers that are reported as type 6 ALWAYS create the wakelock. Any reported as 1 or 2 do not.
ALSO: I've always used Stock and Sky ICS. Can someone on an AOSP-based ROM check a known iPhone charger to see if it reports type 2 or 6? This can help us determine if this problem only exists in the Samsung-based ROMs.
Very good info, I checked a couple of my chargers and they were working properly. Thanx
Edit..
I just checked my car charger, bought it at [email protected] when I got my skyrocket. On the attached charging cable it reads 6 in term. Emulator, and if I plug a cable into the USB connection it reads 2.
Jrockttu said:
ALSO: I've always used Stock and Sky ICS. Can someone on an AOSP-based ROM check a known iPhone charger to see if it reports type 2 or 6? This can help us determine if this problem only exists in the Samsung-based ROMs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am running CM9 nightly 7/7 with Instigatorx kernel, and I just tested the following chargers with the same cable:
Stock Samsung Skyrocket
Stock Motorola RAZR
Stock Palm Pre
Stock 1st gen iPad
All but the iPad report as 2, the iPad reports as 6.
Also, I tried your Tasker profile but it says it can't find /mnt/emmc/chargetype.txt
Tom
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
rpr69 said:
I am running CM9 nightly 7/7 with Instigatorx kernel, and I just tested the following chargers with the same cable:
Stock Samsung Skyrocket
Stock Motorola RAZR
Stock Palm Pre
Stock 1st gen iPad
All but the iPad report as 2, the iPad reports as 6.
Also, I tried your Tasker profile but it says it can't find /mnt/emmc/chargetype.txt
Tom
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for testing.
I also flashed aokp earlier and charger behavior is the same. I wonder if this means it's a hardware problem, not software.
Chargetype.txt should be created in /mnt/sdcard/. I'll have to look as to why it works different for you. You can try changing the path for the read task in the meantime.
No worries, I just manually cat'ted the file. So far I haven't seen the charger wake lock recently on my setup, but I'm still investigating. I am seeing a lot of 'deleted_wake_locks', which may be related to my tasker profile that turns off Wifi and BT during the day.
rpr69 said:
No worries, I just manually cat'ted the file. So far I haven't seen the charger wake lock recently on my setup, but I'm still investigating. I am seeing a lot of 'deleted_wake_locks', which may be related to my tasker profile that turns off Wifi and BT during the day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're not seeing the wakelock after using your iPad charger? In my experience, plugging in to a type 6 charger immediately eliminates the wakelock, even without restarting the phone. The wakelock seems tied to the last charger you used before unplugging.
Thank you very much for this useful post. I sometimes charge my phone using my usb port on my MacBook at home (it's a work computer--I hate Macs), and I wonder if using that port is causing a wakelock issue for me. I charge it on that and then leave my phone off the charger at night, and when I wake up my battery is usually depleted by 15% minimum by morning (running CM9 nightlies currently).
I'll test it out tonight and report back (if I remember to...which I should...lol).
skrambled said:
Thank you very much for this useful post. I sometimes charge my phone using my usb port on my MacBook at home (it's a work computer--I hate Macs), and I wonder if using that port is causing a wakelock issue for me. I charge it on that and then leave my phone off the charger at night, and when I wake up my battery is usually depleted by 15% minimum by morning (running CM9 nightlies currently).
I'll test it out tonight and report back (if I remember to...which I should...lol).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A 15% drain over an 8 hour period of no use seems normal to me if you have accounts syncing. If you had the wakelock, it would be more like 50-80% drain over that same time.
Your MacBook should report charger type 1 (USB charging), but please let me know if it causes the wakelock (using the CPU Spy method).
I've been using an app called Juice Defender, it's a pretty nice app that will turn off your radios while your phone is in standby mode. I can set my phone on my night stand when I go to sleep and leave it for 8 hours and get anywhere between a 7-11% percent drain. There is three levels of the app (free, pro, and ultimate)
sorry I can't link it cause of the 10 post rule
Just my two cents...
NaughtyNinja74 said:
I've been using an app called Juice Defender, it's a pretty nice app that will turn off your radios while your phone is in standby mode. I can set my phone on my night stand when I go to sleep and leave it for 8 hours and get anywhere between a 7-11% percent drain. There is three levels of the app (free, pro, and ultimate)
sorry I can't link it cause of the 10 post rule
Just my two cents...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A lot of people use Juice Defender, but the app is very polarizing. Some people claim it's made their battery last forever, while others say it's the same or worse with JD. I used it briefly on my Nexus One and didn't notice a difference. I didn't include it because of the controversy surrounding its effectiveness.
I'll look around and see if anyone has a really good thread explaining its worth and link it in my OP.
My issues with the SR battery have been around the syncing that happens in the background. I finally got my work email down to syncing once and hour and gmail to once every 2 hours. Obviously this varies per person but I think how often the phone sync's is Androids worst enemy. With Juice Defender at least you have somewhat "universal" control over the radio's and when they connect when YOU want them to.
Whether or not you get better battery is in fact subjective to the user.
pctx said:
My issues with the SR battery have been around the syncing that happens in the background. I finally got my work email down to syncing once and hour and gmail to once every 2 hours. Obviously this varies per person but I think how often the phone sync's is Androids worst enemy. With Juice Defender at least you have somewhat "universal" control over the radio's and when they connect when YOU want them to.
Whether or not you get better battery is in fact subjective to the user.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as I understand push email, you shouldn't see much, if any, battery improvement by delaying gmail because it's pushed, not polled. Increasing polling intervals on Exchange email will help, though.
And you're right, the biggest factor in battery life is how people use their phones. The thing I hope to accomplish with this thread is to eliminate the problems that ruin battery life regardless of how someone uses their Skyrocket.
My charger was recognizing as 2 (AC fast charge) but I switched to OEM just to see and it does indeed seem to be idling much better and charging faster. Go figure.
I do suspect this is partly a software issue, but if using the OEM charger works, it works. Good thread.
Thanks for the good info! I try to monitor my usage as much as possible and once I root my phone it will be a lot more flexible, but some new stuff in here I'm gonna try out as well.
Thank you so much for putting this together. I wrote a couple of scripts in ROM Manager to test all of my chargers, and the two Griffin dual-USB car lighter chargers I have both return a 6... After reading this thread, it's not surprising because Griffin is in bed with Apple, and pins 2 and 3 must be open to receive Apple certification. My bad, but I like the Griffin products, and think they are robust and designed well. I've used them with my iPods all along...
I unplugged my Skyrocket the other day when I went to play golf, and used my Golf Logix GPS app. I had a full charge when I started, but I noticed the charge dropping rapidly as I played, even though I kept turning the screen of constantly. By the end of a full round (18 holes), my phone was down to 14%! I figured out was the golf app and uninstalled it, but afterwards, when I checked in CPU Spy, I found that my phone never slept the whole time, even with the screen off...
Turns out, out must be the charger in my car. It's currently cracked open, awaiting my soldering iron and my 1 year old girl's next nap
Thanks again!
Sent from somewhere in Galaxy SII...
Is Juice Defender worth it? With AOKP and many other custom ROMs you get toggles for data/wifi/brightness; shouldn't manually regulating their on/off state be just as efficient (if not more) than automated control? Or am I missing some features that Juice Defender carries
whosgotlag said:
Is Juice Defender worth it? With AOKP and many other custom ROMs you get toggles for data/wifi/brightness; shouldn't manually regulating their on/off state be just as efficient (if not more) than automated control? Or am I missing some features that Juice Defender carries
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a simplicity thing for me. Yes, I could flash a custom ROM and configure everything manually to max my battery savings. Or, I could root the phone, freeze bloatware, and set JD up so that it handles all that for me. I'd probably have somewhat longer battery life doing it the first way (or significantly longer, depending on the ROM), but my battery life with JD is fine for my purposes, so why mess with flashing a custom ROM, the ever-present brick possibility and resetting the flash counter later when I can just root it and forget it?
I have used this tablet for 2 days now and almost everything works perfect (thanks to latest ota) but there's one thing that is bothering me. Battery life. I had ipad 3 for 2 months but I finally sold it and bought the infinity. Now I know ios sucks on phones AND tablets. But the battery life was amazing. I could use it to browse and for games for 9 hours at least. But on the infinity I am lucky if I get 4 hours browsing. 4 hours sucks on a tablet. But I think that wifi is the problem. I have added 2 pictures were you can see I used the tablet for 1 hour last night then I used it for almost 3 more hours today. Now the battery is at 10%. But I was wondering why the battery uses 62%? On my galaxy nexus wifi is using 5%.
Have I got a faulty unit or is it like this for everyone? If so please let me know fast so I can send it back before it's too late.
Somethings not right there. Tests/reviews done by some major outlets (thinking PC World or Engadget) reported 9 hours of video play over wifi with screen at 50% brightness. iOS has always had good battery life due to their stict contols over the OS, but you should be seeing more then 4 hours. Hell I was at 40% and played WindUp Knight for hours straight last night which takes up much more battery then a movie. I usually don't suggest using task managers, but there is one built in by asus, I'd use it and see if you can kill some processes. Also be mindful which profile is being used. I stick to balanced most of the time and switch to low when the battery starts getting low (24%ish)
http://www.engadget.com/2012/06/25/asus-transformer-pad-infinity-tf700-review/
The TF700 packs a 25Wh battery rated for up to nine and a half hours of runtime. Indeed, it lasted nine hours and 25 in our battery rundown test, which involves looping a video with WiFi on and the brightness fixed at 50 percent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. I am always on Balanced and i am seeing over 20% down in an hour. Maybe i have a faulty unit?
I wouldn't be so sure. I was playing nova 3 on performance mode though.
jdeoxys said:
I wouldn't be so sure. I was playing nova 3 on performance mode though.
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Click to collapse
Hmm so i'm not the only one. I hope Asus fixes this fast or im gonna have to return, but i can't see any tablet better then this atm.
armanisafarai said:
Hmm so i'm not the only one. I hope Asus fixes this fast or im gonna have to return, but i can't see any tablet better then this atm.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, what do you expect? It's going to take some power to push all the pixels on this massive resolution.
jdeoxys said:
Well, what do you expect? It's going to take some power to push all the pixels on this massive resolution.
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Click to collapse
Exactly, it all depends on what your doing OP. The movie scenerio in the review doesnt take much juice in that it uses the low power single core. I don't know for sure, but web browsing may require all 4 cores to kick in depending on exactly what your doing. Regardless, your wifi being a big consumer is easy to deal with. Somewhere in the settings is an option that automatically turns wifi off when screen is off.
Chief Geek said:
Exactly, it all depends on what your doing OP. The movie scenerio in the review doesnt take much juice in that it uses the low power single core. I don't know for sure, but web browsing may require all 4 cores to kick in depending on exactly what your doing. Regardless, your wifi being a big consumer is easy to deal with. Somewhere in the settings is an option that automatically turns wifi off when screen is off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, all i was doing was using chrome... I think it's pretty bad when i cant browse for more then 4 hours on a tablet. I thought it had to do something with WiFi since its using over 62%. I did the same test with my nexus where i i just used chrome and when i looked in battery , wifi only used 10%. Maybe there is a bug with wifi?
Try Battery HD for some averages/estimates.
I tend to get about 9+ hrs of reading, balanced mode, WiFi off, and about 7 hrs of browsing over WiFi (undocked, dock charges me about 2/3 full), but it all drops down drastically for gaming, which is about 4 hrs you mentioned.
If you get 4 hrs of pure browsing, I'd consider re-flashing, wiping data and - if these don't help - returning your device.
Chief Geek's point has much merit, and you could always look at (for example) GreenPower or some other time-/screen-based toggler. They do pretty well, and you do not even lose out anything except direct push functionality. (Does it really matter for 99.9% of mail when it comes in once every 15 or 30 minutes? When it does (when you're buying a house or something), shut down the toggler for the time being and cope with some battery drain, then when the situation has resolved, enable it again.
And try using BetterBatterStats for your statistics -- the main battery stat app Android offers has some quirks to prevent meaningful interpretations of many scenarios. Let that get a few charging/discharging cycles and then look at the stats.
So battery hd tells me I should get 8 hours of browsing and 9 for video playback. Will do another test tomorrow with screen on whole time and see how long it will last watching videos. Also battery hd tells me I can play 3d games for only 2 hours. Eh
MartyHulskemper said:
Chief Geek's point has much merit, and you could always look at (for example) GreenPower or some other time-/screen-based toggler. They do pretty well, and you do not even lose out anything except direct push functionality. (Does it really matter for 99.9% of mail when it comes in once every 15 or 30 minutes? When it does (when you're buying a house or something), shut down the toggler for the time being and cope with some battery drain, then when the situation has resolved, enable it again.
And try using BetterBatterStats for your statistics -- the main battery stat app Android offers has some quirks to prevent meaningful interpretations of many scenarios. Let that get a few charging/discharging cycles and then look at the stats.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I installed betterbatterystats last night, will do more testing.
armanisafarai said:
So battery hd tells me I should get 8 hours of browsing and 9 for video playback. Will do another test tomorrow with screen on whole time and see how long it will last watching videos. Also battery hd tells me I can play 3d games for only 2 hours. Eh
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Remember that these are just averages for your device, at least in the beginning.
If you mistreated your battery upon receiving it, it can kill battery life. You are suppose to plug in your asus tablet for at least 8 hours (well beyond the tablet would say the battery is 100%) the first time you get it. This is sound advice for any new Lithium Ion Battery.
Then you can start using it. Letting the battery die at 0% also decrease the life of the Li-Ion battery every time it happens (ignore old sites that say you should do a full discharge cycle every 2 weeks, that was for old Nickel Cadmium batteries).
Juice Defender is typically a phone app but you can run it as well to detect if any background processes are eating up your battery life.
I get almost 10 hours on my TF700 with moderate usage (mix of browsing, video playback, reading, etc.).
Diogenes5 said:
If you mistreated your battery upon receiving it, it can kill battery life. You are suppose to plug in your asus tablet for at least 8 hours (well beyond the tablet would say the battery is 100%) the first time you get it. This is sound advice for any new Lithium Ion Battery.
Then you can start using it. Letting the battery die at 0% also decrease the life of the Li-Ion battery every time it happens (ignore old sites that say you should do a full discharge cycle every 2 weeks, that was for old Nickel Cadmium batteries).
Juice Defender is typically a phone app but you can run it as well to detect if any background processes are eating up your battery life.
I get almost 10 hours on my TF700 with moderate usage (mix of browsing, video playback, reading, etc.).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All correct -- there is a lot of disinformation going on with batteries (especially regarding the charging cycles, although a single, long, full charge and then draining to zero charge actually helps calibrate the battery indication algorithms in the device). The optimum minimum charge level seems to be about 40% or so I've read.
Juice Defender and Greenpower toggle WiFi on either time- or location-based profiles, and that works on tablets as well. Recommended!
Your phone doesnt actually discharge a battery to zero. The thing with lithium batteries is they maintain voltage untill nearly the end. This is a very large benifit for modern devices. Once the voltage starts to drop the phones circuitry cuts it off and prevents it from powering on with the LVC circuit that checks the battery before allowing phone to power on then immeditately cuts it (first attempting a power down then all out power cut). This happens to protect the battery. So what the phone considers a dead battery is simply an exhausted battery ready for charge. If a lithium is actually dischardged completely it will damage the cell and prevent it from taking a charge. The power being given to it is then converted to heat. The battery then ignites and very very bad things happen such as your house burning down. The point of all that is to point out that discharging your phone to "zero" isn't actually doing any damage past the normal wear and tear on the battery. I buy batteries that cost hundreds for some of my RC hobbies and have learned the hard way about how lithium batteries work. (bypassed LVC and ruined a $80 3S2P pack)
Diogenes5 said:
If you mistreated your battery upon receiving it, it can kill battery life. You are suppose to plug in your asus tablet for at least 8 hours (well beyond the tablet would say the battery is 100%) the first time you get it. This is sound advice for any new Lithium Ion Battery.
Then you can start using it. Letting the battery die at 0% also decrease the life of the Li-Ion battery every time it happens (ignore old sites that say you should do a full discharge cycle every 2 weeks, that was for old Nickel Cadmium batteries).
Juice Defender is typically a phone app but you can run it as well to detect if any background processes are eating up your battery life.
I get almost 10 hours on my TF700 with moderate usage (mix of browsing, video playback, reading, etc.).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have actually read that Li-Ion batteries can be used out of the box. Sp i turned on my infinity right away. I put the charger in, but i still used the tablet. It was about 25% when i got it out of the box. So what you're saying is that i have basically ****ed up the battery? If so, then i will return and get a new one. But i dont understand why most people say that you can usre a device with Li-Ion battery staright out of the box without needing to charge it first.
Chief Geek said:
Your phone doesnt actually discharge a battery to zero. The thing with lithium batteries is they maintain voltage untill nearly the end. This is a very large benifit for modern devices. Once the voltage starts to drop the phones circuitry cuts it off and prevents it from powering on with the LVC circuit that checks the battery before allowing phone to power on then immeditately cuts it (first attempting a power down then all out power cut). This happens to protect the battery. So what the phone considers a dead battery is simply an exhausted battery ready for charge. If a lithium is actually dischardged completely it will damage the cell and prevent it from taking a charge. The power being given to it is then converted to heat. The battery then ignites and very very bad things happen such as your house burning down. The point of all that is to point out that discharging your phone to "zero" isn't actually doing any damage past the normal wear and tear on the battery. I buy batteries that cost hundreds for some of my RC hobbies and have learned the hard way about how lithium batteries work. (bypassed LVC and ruined a $80 3S2P pack)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing to add, technical and extensive, but fully correct, sir. I think we may have had a slight misunderstanding, however: my point was that discharging your phone to 'zero' (and as you rightfully point out, that is not an actual fully discharged battery state) is a required step in calibrating most device's algorithms (some devices, such as my SGS2 do not need this because of advanced hardware). I'd rather not fully discharge any Li-Ion batteries either.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T
armanisafarai said:
i have actually read that Li-Ion batteries can be used out of the box. Sp i turned on my infinity right away. I put the charger in, but i still used the tablet. It was about 25% when i got it out of the box. So what you're saying is that i have basically ****ed up the battery? If so, then i will return and get a new one. But i dont understand why most people say that you can usre a device with Li-Ion battery staright out of the box without needing to charge it first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A typical case of RTFM, an affliction I sometimes suffer from as well, as do most men. Hahaha! Do you think ASUS put it in the manual for laughs, or just to give you a few more hours of painful desire to use your device while you cannot, yet? Nah, it's there for a reason. Sometimes, though -- and again that's SGS2 experience -- just running a few battery cycles might make the readout correspond to the actual battery level again. You could at least give it a try, right?
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T
armanisafarai said:
I have used this tablet for 2 days now and almost everything works perfect (thanks to latest ota) but there's one thing that is bothering me. Battery life. I had ipad 3 for 2 months but I finally sold it and bought the infinity. Now I know ios sucks on phones AND tablets. But the battery life was amazing. I could use it to browse and for games for 9 hours at least. But on the infinity I am lucky if I get 4 hours browsing. 4 hours sucks on a tablet. But I think that wifi is the problem. I have added 2 pictures were you can see I used the tablet for 1 hour last night then I used it for almost 3 more hours today. Now the battery is at 10%. But I was wondering why the battery uses 62%? On my galaxy nexus wifi is using 5%.
Have I got a faulty unit or is it like this for everyone? If so please let me know fast so I can send it back before it's too late.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see the same picture here. Looking at the battery stats I see WIFI using >90% of the battery when surfing in balanced/50% backligt mode.
Hope they fix this.
No matter which phone you have, an iPhone or a GS3/GS2 or a Xperia device, you always fret over the battery life of your device! (Xperia owners a little more)
Instead of splashing out on expensive battery packs, here is a list of things you can do to get the maximum out of your battery :
1. It’s all about the Apps!
Many of the more than one million apps available to download to smartphones contain programming errors and software bugs that mishandle power control. This means your devices can remain active when they should be sleeping which further leads to unnecessary draining of your battery. Identify these apps! (Other apps like Carat can help you with that) and monitor there use!
Also, there is a good chance that there are apps running in the background of your phone that you think you closed or reappear each time you reboot your device. Fortunately, it’s easy to identify and correct this on the iOS and Android operating systems with a few easy steps. All open apps drain battery, so in this case, the lesser, the merrier!
2. The battery is always better on the cooler side!
Your smartphone most likely uses a Lithium Ion (Li-ion) battery. Be aware that extreme temperatures can negatively impact battery life so whenever possible keep your device in elements between 32 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. While a frigid phone should reclaim its functionality once it returns to room temperature, an overheated device could permanently ruin your battery. Over the course of a year, prolonged exposure to climates above 95 degrees could reduce a phone capacity by as much as 35 percent.
Remove any protective cover or accessory every time your phone is being charged. When you’re walking around, keep your phone in a ventilated holster or belt clip rather than a sweaty hand or pocket. Over-charging will also contribute to an overheated phone.
3. Always look at the bright side of life! – well the screen actually!
Turn on Auto Brightness! Most phones have an ambient light sensor that adjusts the brightness of the screen based on the light around it (darker in dark places, brighter when there’s more ambient light) to both save battery and make it easier to see. Turn Auto-Brightness on and you’ll save battery because your screen will need to use less power in dark places.
If not, manually adjust your screen brightness according to your needs by accessing it from the settings menu.
4. Stay (dis)connected!
Transmitting data wirelessly takes battery and leaving Bluetooth on to accept incoming data at all times requires even more juice. Turn off Bluetooth except when you’re using it (duh!) to squeeze more juice from your battery.
3G can be a real battery zapper, especially if you’re using it in an area of marginal coverage. If in doubt, your phone probably has a toggle setting where you can set your phone to use only 2G, You will soon see an extension to battery life that way while not really compromising speed or service.
And disabling a 3G connection when not needed is just the start. If you know you’re going to be away from home or a known wireless Internet connection, turn off your Wi-Fi locator. Also, GPS is particularly handy if you find yourself navigating somewhere new, but don’t leave it on all the time if you’re not using it.
5. Zip it!
When in a meeting or a movie, switch your phone into silent mode. Unnecessary notifications will only lead to lesser battery life. Use a basic ringtone! Advanced ringtones can sound better, but the phone will die soon! Also, turning off location services and push-notifications is definitively a step-forward towards saving battery life!
If you discover your smartphone seems to be running out of battery life quicker than ever despite your habits remaining unchanged, it could be worth investing in a spare or new battery. It’s worth noting that aftermarket batteries not made by the original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) are considerably cheaper. They do, however, vary in quality. Some aftermarket batteries can be trusted, but be aware of ‘too good to be true’ prices for smartphone batteries on retailers like eBay. You could end up with junk, or worse, a faulty battery that permanently damage your device. Buy carefully and smartly from trusted retailers to be safe.
Underclock your phone to 800/1000Mhz (while you are travelling) cz SGSII can do most of the stuffs within that speed.
Use Custom kernel like siyah wch has better battery backup than stock
dont set min freq to 100MHz cz 200MHz is much more energy efficient than 100 & has more operationg power !!
Come on man, show some love for Celsius! Besides, it is what most of the world uses and is not seemingly arbitrary (or based on how cold it gets in the average american's basement)!
Anyway, well written guide, may prove useful for the lesser knowledgeable folks out there
Whilst I applaud you for putting this info together, it is not specific to the SGS2. This is SGS2 General. This kind of thread belongs General Discussion or at the very least in Android General (tho probably the former).
For 1. I would recommend using an app such as Go Power Master, as it tracks which apps are running as how much power they are using. Some apps are always running, but use very little power while others can use a lot while it is running.
Also, if this may be applicable:
If, after rooting or more likely that case after flashing a new rom, you often have battery reporting errors (as mentioned above), and re-calibrating the battery along with some steps I will outline for you below will ensure that your battery is getting a full charge, and the battery reporting accuracy is right on. As far as power cycling, I run my Atrix 2 in performance mode all the time, and with a CPU overclock of 1.25GHz and various tweaks, I have about a day an a half to a day and a quarter of full runtime from my battery. This is moderate to heavy usage (calls, emailing, text, gaming, web browsing, etc.) so you should have no problems getting acceptable battery performance after following these steps:
1. Take the case off your device (one of the latter steps involves taking the battery out from the phone while it's plugged in. Make sure your case won't stand in the way.)
2. Install Battery Calibration app from the market
3. Plug in your device to charge while it's on, wait till it gets to a 100%
4. When the charge is 100%, open the BatteryCalibration app and lookup what the charge is in MV while at 100%. Write it down.
My Atrix 2 was showing ~3400MV while at 100%, which is definitely not the maximum capacity.
5. Discharge your device completely until it shuts off.
A good way of doing this quickly is by turning on wifi, and a video player.
6. Without turning on the phone plug it into a wall charger and let it get to 100%
7. When it's at 100%, without unplugging it from the wall charger, take off the battery cover, and take the battery out.
Your phone will "reboot" and show a Missing Battery icon.
8. Without unplugging the phone from the wall charger or turning it on, put the battery back in and wait until the phone recognizes the battery.
9. Your battery should now be recognized by the phone, and showing a charge % significantly lower than 100%.
Mine showed only 5%.
10. Let it sit there charging for 2-3 hours (or more).
My phone wouldn't charge past 10%, but yours might. The numbers don't matter much as the phone is definitely getting additional charge that could have been lost while flashing ROMs, etc.
11. After 2-3 hours (or more), turn the phone on while holding the volume down button and get into CWM.
Do not disconnect it from the charger still!
12. Wipe battery stats in CWM, reboot.
Do not disconnect it from the charger still!
13. When the phone turns on, go into Battery Calibration app again and look up your MV numbers -if you were like me, they should be significantly higher than before. After this whole process I had 4351MV at 100%, comparing to 3400MV before calibration.
Do not disconnect it from the charger still!
14. Before going to sleep - Install Watchdog Task Manager Lite from the market. Go into it's preferences, set CPU threshhold to 20%, check "Include phone processes", check "Monitor phone processes", check "Display all phone processes", set system CPU threshhold to 20% as well.
Do not disconnect it from the charger still!
15. Make sure your wifi and data connections are off. Now finally unplug the phone from the charger.
Go to bed, let your phone sleep too.
16. Success! Next morning check where your battery % is at and if you followed the instructions correctly / got lucky like me, your battery life should be 90% or more.
I went to bed with 98% and woke up to 94%. So, I consider this mission a success.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
A samsung developer actually said that whiping battery stats doesn't matter at all, it was on the XDA frontpage some time ago
AOKP undercloking
sekhargreen said:
No matter which phone you have, an iPhone or a GS3/GS2 or a Xperia device, you always fret over the battery life of your device! (Xperia owners a little more)
Instead of splashing out on expensive battery packs, here is a list of things you can do to get the maximum out of your battery :
1. It’s all about the Apps!
Many of the more than one million apps available to download to smartphones contain programming errors and software bugs that mishandle power control. This means your devices can remain active when they should be sleeping which further leads to unnecessary draining of your battery. Identify these apps! (Other apps like Carat can help you with that) and monitor there use!
Also, there is a good chance that there are apps running in the background of your phone that you think you closed or reappear each time you reboot your device. Fortunately, it’s easy to identify and correct this on the iOS and Android operating systems with a few easy steps. All open apps drain battery, so in this case, the lesser, the merrier!
2. The battery is always better on the cooler side!
Your smartphone most likely uses a Lithium Ion (Li-ion) battery. Be aware that extreme temperatures can negatively impact battery life so whenever possible keep your device in elements between 32 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. While a frigid phone should reclaim its functionality once it returns to room temperature, an overheated device could permanently ruin your battery. Over the course of a year, prolonged exposure to climates above 95 degrees could reduce a phone capacity by as much as 35 percent.
Remove any protective cover or accessory every time your phone is being charged. When you’re walking around, keep your phone in a ventilated holster or belt clip rather than a sweaty hand or pocket. Over-charging will also contribute to an overheated phone.
3. Always look at the bright side of life! – well the screen actually!
Turn on Auto Brightness! Most phones have an ambient light sensor that adjusts the brightness of the screen based on the light around it (darker in dark places, brighter when there’s more ambient light) to both save battery and make it easier to see. Turn Auto-Brightness on and you’ll save battery because your screen will need to use less power in dark places.
If not, manually adjust your screen brightness according to your needs by accessing it from the settings menu.
4. Stay (dis)connected!
Transmitting data wirelessly takes battery and leaving Bluetooth on to accept incoming data at all times requires even more juice. Turn off Bluetooth except when you’re using it (duh!) to squeeze more juice from your battery.
3G can be a real battery zapper, especially if you’re using it in an area of marginal coverage. If in doubt, your phone probably has a toggle setting where you can set your phone to use only 2G, You will soon see an extension to battery life that way while not really compromising speed or service.
And disabling a 3G connection when not needed is just the start. If you know you’re going to be away from home or a known wireless Internet connection, turn off your Wi-Fi locator. Also, GPS is particularly handy if you find yourself navigating somewhere new, but don’t leave it on all the time if you’re not using it.
5. Zip it!
When in a meeting or a movie, switch your phone into silent mode. Unnecessary notifications will only lead to lesser battery life. Use a basic ringtone! Advanced ringtones can sound better, but the phone will die soon! Also, turning off location services and push-notifications is definitively a step-forward towards saving battery life!
If you discover your smartphone seems to be running out of battery life quicker than ever despite your habits remaining unchanged, it could be worth investing in a spare or new battery. It’s worth noting that aftermarket batteries not made by the original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) are considerably cheaper. They do, however, vary in quality. Some aftermarket batteries can be trusted, but be aware of ‘too good to be true’ prices for smartphone batteries on retailers like eBay. You could end up with junk, or worse, a faulty battery that permanently damage your device. Buy carefully and smartly from trusted retailers to be safe.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually I underclock my GS2 to 800Mhz thanks to an AOKP Rom and my battery last one hour or one hour and a half more, which is great when you just have 7/8 hours of battery life normally. It didn't really affect the use of common apps, but of course if you want to play big 3D games, I suggest you to clock it a its original rate (1.2Ghz for the GS2 for example).
---------- Post added at 01:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21 PM ----------
Neefy said:
A samsung developer actually said that whiping battery stats doesn't matter at all, it was on the XDA frontpage some time ago
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I think so because this is just statistics, it will not affect the actual battery life of the phone.
Apex_Strider said:
Also, if this may be applicable:
If, after rooting or more likely that case after flashing a new rom, you often have battery reporting errors (as mentioned above), and re-calibrating the battery along with some steps I will outline for you below will ensure that your battery is getting a full charge, and the battery reporting accuracy is right on.
<Snip>
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is bump charging and while it does work, it is not good for Li-on batteries. I'll find the link and edit it back in but bump charging will shorten the life of your battery due to inconsistent charge cycles.
Neefy said:
A samsung developer actually said that whiping battery stats doesn't matter at all, it was on the XDA frontpage some time ago
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is from my battery guide. OP (or anyone for that matter), feel free to check it out. There is far more information, apps, deep memory management trick,... Link is in my signature.
Batter Calibrator –
<Snip>
**Note that this can be done two other ways. You can boot into CWR or Custom Recovery and go to Advanced Settings and there will be the Wipe Batterystats.bin option. Or you can do it manually by going into /data/system/ and deleting the batterystats.bin in there. Any of the three methods work to get the entirely same result in the end. I just like using the app or manually myself. **
<Snip>
Recently there has been information debunking this process. I will post it below, however I know what it says, but I also know what I've seen/experienced too. Here is the post by Dianne Hackborn, a Google Dev on her G+ account.
Dianne Hackborn - Jan 12, 2012 - Public
Today's myth debunking:
"The battery indicator in the status/notification bar is a reflection of the batterystats.bin file in the data/system/ directory."
No, it does not.
This file is used to maintain, across reboots, low-level data about the kinds of operations the device and your apps are doing between battery changes. That is, it is solely used to compute the blame for battery usage shown in the "Battery Use" UI in settings.
That is, it has deeply significant things like "app X held a wake lock for 2 minutes" and "the screen was on at 60% brightness for 10 minutes."
It has no impact on the current battery level shown to you.
It has no impact on your battery life.
Deleting it is not going to do anything to make your more device more fantastic and wonderful... well, unless you have some deep hatred for seeing anything shown in the battery usage UI. And anyway, it is reset every time you unplug from power with a relatively full charge (thus why the battery usage UI data resets at that point), so this would be a much easier way to make it go away.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Neefy said:
A samsung developer actually said that whiping battery stats doesn't matter at all, it was on the XDA frontpage some time ago
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The point of doing so is if you happen to get incorrect battery reporting, which DOES occur in certain capacities. So, in my book as well as many others, it does matter for these situations. If only one developer told you the world was flat, would you believe that also?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
Thanks for the useful information!
Great information that applies to any phone, thank you.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda app-developers app
sekhargreen said:
No matter which phone you have, an iPhone or a GS3/GS2 or a Xperia device, you always fret over the battery life of your device! (Xperia owners a little more)
Instead of splashing out on expensive battery packs, here is a list of things you can do to get the maximum out of your battery...<snip>
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apex_Strider said:
Also, if this may be applicable: <snip>
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great info/tips from both members above. Thanks button thanked for both!
Fosho bro thanks a lot...simple tips
Sent from my One X using xda app-developers app
Actually I could only save battery on my MEIZU by underclocking & battery saver app.
Thanks for your infos, I'll give some of them a try now (again )
Nice information... thanks for sharing..
You can also buy a better battery for your phone. They normally are cheap too
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using xda app-developers app
I just turn on power saving mode. But I still need to recharge my phone daily, once in two days if I'm lucky. But after reading this topic I will see if I can scratch those pesky powerhungry little demons.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
Apex_Strider said:
The point of doing so is if you happen to get incorrect battery reporting, which DOES occur in certain capacities. So, in my book as well as many others, it does matter for these situations. If only one developer told you the world was flat, would you believe that also?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery stats has nothing to do with battery reporting. And it was an engineer from Google's Android team that debunked the battery stats wives' tale.
So yeah, folks probably should believe a recognized subject matter expert when they clearly and concisely debunk misinformation such as the advice to wipe battery stats.
Also, it bears mentioning that the os clears battery stats upon every reboot, making the advice to do so even more pointless than it already is.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Great tips...definately learned something! Much appreciated!!
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda app-developers app
I have a problem with my mi4c.
Everytime my phone touches the 30 % mark it shuts down.
After it is off I restart it and I can see ~25% and use it until shuts down at 0%.
Does anyone know how to solve the problem?
I'm running Resurrection Rom 5.7.4 with 2.00 OC kernel.
Also I'm using magisk.
I flashed the Rom etc. Around 3 days ago
first of all, flash some other rom to see if it persists
but frankly, most probably the battery is worn out, ie. if there's some stress and huge amount of power is being drawn, a dead battery won't be able to give proper voltage, the voltage drops and the system reads it as if battery level dropped to 0% level (the percentage is calculated from actual voltage, ie. ~4,35v = full, somewhere about 3,5v means 'empty') <-sorry for non-scientific description
btw. my battery shows similar symptoms - ie. it quickly drops from 100% to 85% and it happens that the phone shuts down if I try to run something demanding when batt level <20%. waiting for replacement to be delivered
I have the same issue
I just saw similar complaints in polish mi4c forums - I believe the batteries are either bad quality ones or rather they're designed to give too much output concerning their real size/capacity. How is that? just let electronics charge it waay over 4,2v - you "gain" some capacity and then you let it discharge to much less than 3,6v - you "gain" another couple of mAh. You can boast your slim battery has 3000mAh, but only for first 50-100 cycles (enogh for web tests to get good opinions and sell many phones) and then its capacity falls rapidly - because you're left with "real" battery capacity (I mean for voltages between 4,2 and 3,6v).
So, I personally believe the replacement battery will behave more or less the same because of the phone electronics it will be killed within similar period of time
adamuadamu said:
I just saw similar complaints in polish mi4c forums - I believe the batteries are either bad quality ones or rather they're designed to give too much output concerning their real size/capacity. How is that? just let electronics charge it waay over 4,2v - you "gain" some capacity and then you let it discharge to much less than 3,6v - you "gain" another couple of mAh. You can boast your slim battery has 3000mAh, but only for first 50-100 cycles (enogh for web tests to get good opinions and sell many phones) and then its capacity falls rapidly - because you're left with "real" battery capacity (I mean for voltages between 4,2 and 3,6v).
So, I personally believe the replacement battery will behave more or less the same because of the phone electronics it will be killed within similar period of time
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could be.
But why does it shut off at 30 %?
If I restart it I can use the 25%.
Is the voltage drop at 30 % so high that it shuts off?
I don't know if it happens on Miui.
I only experienced it on cm13 /rr 5.7.4
I was curious to find how's the battery condition, installed that app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=kr.hwangti.batterylog
it allows to see battery percentage, temp and current voltage when the percentage changes
so, my battery is already junk - there are numerous serious voltage drops like:
Code:
98% - 4270mV
96% - [COLOR="Red"]4075mV[/COLOR]
95% - 4199mV
or from previous charge cycle:
Code:
34% - 3715mV
33% - [COLOR="red"]3498mV[/COLOR]
31% - 3764mV
my new battery is on its way to destination country, curious to see how it'd look after replacement
right now, no wonder why it's shutting itself randomly
could you guys check your voltages and post here, too?
adamuadamu said:
I was curious to find how's the battery condition, installed that app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=kr.hwangti.batterylog
it allows to see battery percentage, temp and current voltage when the percentage changes
so, my battery is already junk - there are numerous serious voltage drops like:
Code:
98% - 4270mV
96% - [COLOR="Red"]4075mV[/COLOR]
95% - 4199mV
or from previous charge cycle:
Code:
34% - 3715mV
33% - [COLOR="red"]3498mV[/COLOR]
31% - 3764mV
my new battery is on its way to destination country, curious to see how it'd look after replacement
right now, no wonder why it's shutting itself randomly
could you guys check your voltages and post here, too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
According to the log, i also find random drops (max ~200mV). However I dont think my battery has problem. Battery life is excellent too. Maybe thats normal for LiPO batteries.
Ydraulikos said:
According to the log, i also find random drops (max ~200mV). However I dont think my battery has problem. Battery life is excellent too. Maybe thats normal for LiPO batteries.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you share what ROM you're using? I wondered if this can be somehow linked to rom and its internal readings and or interpretation
adamuadamu said:
can you share what ROM you're using? I wondered if this can be somehow linked to rom and its internal readings and or interpretation
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
CM13 with kuma sources latest (20161006) build from emfox
thanks for the reply
will try to change the ROM to see if it persists
I've tried with xiaomi.eu stable ROM. I have the same values. I think that it is regular, since even in the play store's images you can see the same.
adamuadamu said:
could you guys check your voltages and post here, too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here, have my log (in attachment) from charged at 100% to completely discharged. There are a few drops here and there but it recovers quickly. I get around 5h 30m screen-on-time on TeamSuperluminal's CM13.
This is happening to me too (and to others on our italan facebook group).
I was posting this:"Guys i'm not able to solve this problem: i have a xioami mi4c (1 year old), and recently (every time) when i arrive under 20% of battery it suddenly shuts down. I already tried to turn it off multiple times and to charge it back to 100% without unplugging it but it doesn't work.
I don't know what to do; and when it should be without power (like you cannot turn it on) it shows something like 43% when connected to the charger."
When i saw this thread .
I always had miui but till last week i flashed cm13.1 TS.. i went to cm trying to solve heating issues and now the phone is really a lot less hot but i'm keeping with me those battery issues.. they're really annoying :/
Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
---------- Post added at 11:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:41 AM ----------
Phlogistol said:
Here, have my log (in attachment) from charged at 100% to completely discharged. There are a few drops here and there but it recovers quickly. I get around 5h 30m screen-on-time on TeamSuperluminal's CM13.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How can you reach so many hours?i play sometimes to pokemon go or clash royale and i usually reach 3h!
Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
Bazzu said:
How can you reach so many hours?i play sometimes to pokemon go or clash royale and i usually reach 3h!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not the topic for that, but I rarely play games on the phone and mostly use it for text messaging. I also keep the screen brightness low (around 45 to 50%).
There seems to be quite a lot of variation between individual Mi4c's, so I guess some have better batteries or screens that spend less power; I've read up a lot on it and nobody's decided on an answer as of yet.
Aren't we in a troubleshooting thread ? this thing about variations between same model makes me really sad and angry..why the [email protected]%$ should be possible! I'm enjoying a lot my xiaomi but how can i trust again in the brand?
Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
Bazzu said:
Aren't we in a troubleshooting thread ? this thing about variations between same model makes me really sad and angry..why the [email protected]%$ should be possible! I'm enjoying a lot my xiaomi but how can i trust again in the brand?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's well known that manufacturers mix and match components to assemble even a single phone model. The most familiar case is Apple with the iPhone 6 and the A8 SoC, which had two flavors: TSMC and Samsung. But, what I've said is speculation and not fact.
I'm sure there are two variants of the Mi4c that use either a Sharp or an AUO screen, and it might be that the battery life is impacted by this or that there are two or more battery variants that are put into the Mi4c. No one ever collected enough data to be sure this is the definite cause of weaker battery life, though.
Same as everyone, I'd suggest buying the phone that gives you the most bang for your buck, be that Xiaomi or some other manufacturer. That's why I bought the Mi4c and I have only minor complaints, though the great community definitely helped
Phlogistol said:
It's well known that manufacturers mix and match components to assemble even a single phone model. The most familiar case is Apple with the iPhone 6 and the A8 SoC, which had two flavors: TSMC and Samsung. But, what I've said is speculation and not fact.
I'm sure there are two variants of the Mi4c that use either a Sharp or an AUO screen, and it might be that the battery life is impacted by this or that there are two or more battery variants that are put into the Mi4c. No one ever collected enough data to be sure this is the definite cause of weaker battery life, though.
Same as everyone, I'd suggest buying the phone that gives you the most bang for your buck, be that Xiaomi or some other manufacturer. That's why I bought the Mi4c and I have only minor complaints, though the great community definitely helped
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Yeah you're absolutely right :good:
I bought the mi4c for the same reason...but after all, i have to complain about its battery and touch (yeah i don't like it so much).
Anyway a new battery is coming; up to now it's working good but i don't trust so much of the hardware, so before the "shutting down threshold" grows, i'd like to be "safe".
(little ot: inside our italian forum someone suggested that redmi 3 pro is far better then mi4c ; what do you think ? ; if you prefer you can private message me)
redmi 3pro would be far better except for the camera depends on your needs - also, if you want to run custom roms, check if there are any stably ones beforehand
my battery arrived yesterday, changed yesterda, charged overnight and observing - still running battery log and so far the voltage drops are negligible compared to the original one like 0,02v instead of 0,2v. I'll give full report after full discharge cycle
adamuadamu said:
redmi 3pro would be far better except for the camera depends on your needs - also, if you want to run custom roms, check if there are any stably ones beforehand
my battery arrived yesterday, changed yesterda, charged overnight and observing - still running battery log and so far the voltage drops are negligible compared to the original one like 0,02v instead of 0,2v. I'll give full report after full discharge cycle
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Was the change easy to do?
I don't care so much about camera..i absolutely prefer battery and a smooth system, for casual gaming and browsing
Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
Use only MIUI 8 from Xiaomi.eu
Any other rom has various problems.
Hi everyone !
I haven't seen this info anywhere on XDA, at least on this forum, but i think everyone should know this.
Not trying to take credit in any way, because OP made a terrific job at researching and testing, just wanna spread the knowledge.
Basically : Charging your phone at night or leaving it charging even while at 100% for a few hours will have a big impact on how it behaves and how your battery holds up.
Quick explaination : Since Nougat, you don't get the App Optimization screen anymore on the first boot.
That's because Google has delayed it, and it triggers only in specific conditions : When the device is idle, fully charged, and still plugged in.
This optimzation allows to build the ART cache, which speeds up the system and apps, saving CPU power because it avoids using the JIT (Just In Time) compiler, thus, saving battery juice.
This also means wiping cache isn't going to help with your battery life, quite the opposite.
You'll see he made a test with other users, and the results are quite clear.
Here is a link to the post with detailled explaination and testing, thanks a lot to anupritaisno1 for all this info :
https://forums.oneplus.com/threads/...-and-battery-calibration-myths-busted.993896/
Forced the building through "cmd package bg-dexopt job" on my own OP6 running Pixel Experience, took like 15mn. SOT improved quite a lot.
Interesting read, thanks
What if you charge it at night while the phone is OFF?
Thank you for sharing this :laugh:
---------- Post added at 11:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:41 PM ----------
SOCOM-HERO said:
What if you charge it at night while the phone is OFF?
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Read the thread linked in OP.
The system works harder when you charge your phone while it's off.
Very interesting read. Basically debunks majority of the stuff people preach to maximize phone performance and battery.
SOCOM-HERO said:
What if you charge it at night while the phone is OFF?
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If the phone is OFF it can't trigger the optimization task, this won't be beneficial.
In the article he actually made a test about this, you should read it !
Interesting, but... who claimed that clearing the cache helps with the *battery*?
Also, what happened to the old adage "never leave your phone plugged in" because it causes battery wear?
krakout said:
Interesting, but... who claimed that clearing the cache helps with the *battery*?
Also, what happened to the old adage "never leave your phone plugged in" because it causes battery wear?
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A lot of people claim this, that you should clear the cache after an update, without clear reason why. At least we have a reason not to.
And this old adage is indeed old, like the "Fully discharge it for calibration". We're not in 2002 anymore. Modern technology had the nice idea to remember to stop the charge, and use Lithium batteries haha !
Leaving it plugged at 100% is not causing any wear. The post mentions a response from an electrical engineer, saying the battery is in fact on stand by and the phone is running off the charger only.
krakout said:
Also, what happened to the old adage "never leave your phone plugged in" because it causes battery wear?
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Debunked here
Totone56 said:
A lot of people claim this, that you should clear the cache after an update, without clear reason why. At least we have a reason not to.
And this old adage is indeed old, like the "Fully discharge it for calibration". We're not in 2002 anymore. Modern technology had the nice idea to remember to stop the charge, and use Lithium batteries haha !
Leaving it plugged at 100% is not causing any wear. The post mentions a response from an electrical engineer, saying the battery is in fact on stand by and the phone is running off the charger only.
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That's just one way to read it. Leaving it plugged in does not, indeed, mean that it keeps trying to charge. But once it goes down, it will charge up again. Also, supposedly, the fuller the battery is when charging, the higher the temperature and hence, the wear. Cannot attest to that, that's just how the argument goes.
casual_kikoo said:
Debunked here
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Yes, but that's irrelevant. Totally different issue, I was not talking about calibration.
krakout said:
That's just one way to read it. Leaving it plugged in does not, indeed, mean that it keeps trying to charge. But once it goes down, it will charge up again. Also, supposedly, the fuller the battery is when charging, the higher the temperature and hence, the wear. Cannot attest to that, that's just how the argument goes.
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Indeed. But from the looks of it, and what i've read in other places, it waits for it to drop a bit. If the battery is not used, it won't fall to 99% in a night, and won't be charged again until you unplug it. Kinda like when your phone is off. It's gonna be a long time before the battery goes down on it's own.
Interesting, gotta try it.
Still, does the <50, >70% not apply in terms of battery wear? I mean, even for straight-forward charges?
krakout said:
Interesting, gotta try it.
Still, does the <50, >70% not apply in terms of battery wear? I mean, even for straight-forward charges?
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I'd say yes, it still applies. It's a different topic ! Everithing said here is related to software and charging control, when this is more related to battery chemistry. But you're right, it's still true.
To sum it up :
- Charging above 70 or 80% and discharging under 30% (Thoses are the values i read about) is indeed not the best thing for your battery health on the long term.
- BUT, the superior battery life your phone will get with these app optimizations easily counter-balances it. If the phones lasts twice longer, it means 2 times less chaging cycles required, when you think about it (Ofc not accurate, but you see what i mean)
Best thing you can do, if you really want to get the best of both worlds, is staying in between those ideal values, and triggering the optimization manually via the Linux Terminal Emulator
Although, i don't think i'm not personally going to bother, i'll just charge my phone, use it, and charge it again in the evening.
Two days after triggering dexopt manually, without flashing or changing anything, using the phone the same way, i went from 16h idle/2h SOT at the end of the day with 50% remaining to 20h idle/2h15 of SOT with 70% remaining, that's quite a drastic improvement.
Ooh can you share more?I tried googling about triggering the optimization but came up empty...
Yes, that's logic in that, if optimization is so dramatic!
PS I meant 80, not 70, just as you mentioned.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6000 using Tapatalk
krakout said:
Ooh can you share more?I tried googling about triggering the optimization but came up empty...
Yes, that's logic in that, if optimization is so dramatic!
PS I meant 80, not 70, just as you mentioned.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6000 using Tapatalk
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Yes, it's hard to get an info about this, wierd.
Run any terminal app on you phone, type "su" to ask for root permission, then enter "cmd package bg-dexopt-job" (without quotes).
It will run for a certain amount of time (between 10mn and more than an hour, depending of the number of apps you have installed).
When you get the shell back (A line appears under the last one to enter another command), it means it's complete.
If you wanna be sure, run it again, it will finish very fast, because the cache will be up to date (It still checks it, so it's not an instant completion).
Do it plugged in the charger, but with like 30% charge, maybe on USB so it doesn't get to 100% too fast, to avoid the awkward situation where it overlaps with the actual automatic background process doing the same thing haha
The phone can heat up a bit because the CPU is working quite a bit.
You can also run the command through an ADB shell on a PC, if you're not rooted.
Or just leave it charging during a night for once, works too
Best way seems to let if charge for the night regularly though (Quote from the OP) :
"I just say overnight because the device being idle is a condition for the optimisation to begin
Also the optimisation is profile guided. If you were to AOT compile your entire base system it would take 4-5 GB off your storage and that is just the base system we haven't even considered the apps you'll install. Since optimisation generates huge optimisation files it is more sensible to only compile what is slow for JIT to do at runtime. This might seem weird but it takes the cache size down to less than 1 GB on most devices
In other words every time you use your phone the runtime sees what is slow and queues it up for optimisation the next time the condition is satisfied"
Wow. This should be pinned somewhere!
I'll do it in the terminal just for fun, but will also leave it (for my first time ever) overnight too.
Thanks, man!
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6000 using Tapatalk
krakout said:
Wow. This should be pinned somewhere!
I'll do it in the terminal just for fun, but will also leave it (for my first time ever) overnight too.
Thanks, man!
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6000 using Tapatalk
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I think everyone should read this yes, even if it's just for the sake of knowing how things really work.
And i can confirm again, my battery life is so much better ...
A few days ago, going to work, listenting to Spotify on my motorcycle for 20mn, and checking my mails for 2m got me to 96% battery.
Yesterday, and today, same routine, an an hour after that i'm still at 100% ... That's very impressive.
Really interesting.
Sadly the command does nothing on my device.
Sent from my OnePlus6 using XDA Labs
Stroky said:
Really interesting.
Sadly the command does nothing on my device.
Sent from my OnePlus6 using XDA Labs
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Are you sure ? It doesn't display anything, that's true. But you'll know it's over when the shell returns.
Or you can juste leave your phone plugged for a night or two, same result.
My battery goes from 100% to ~97% within minutes without using it after unplugging the phone from the charger when charging overnight.
Why is that and how can I get rid of it? It occurs since a few days on custom rom as well as on oos now again.