Related
There were some requests into forcing the charger controller in the Nooks to allow higher rate charging from non-B&N chargers, I also was constantly annoyed by how my Nooks are always discharging when plugged into my computer with screen on because of only drawing about 500mA, where as the ports would happily provide 1A (development led by Apple).
The work here is experimental and if you decide to try anything, you bear the risk of stuff frying and catching on fire (granted, I did not burn anything here yet, but who knows, this is electricity we deal with here).
The "TRM" is here for anybody interested, sadly it does not match with what the hardware actually does in some important areas (also reflected in the driver comments). It looks like there is no real way to control the charging rate much, as soon as you write into draw rate register, it's two lowest bits are reset to 0 until D+/D- detection is performed, but then the detection resets draw rate back to appropriate defaults, huh? So this leaves us with two settints: 100mA or 1.2A
Plus there's something else going on, e.g. all of my iPhone chargers that I happen to have around only provide about 1.5 Watts of power and the controller refuses to draw more than 500mA from it anyway. All the Android stuff chargers I have on the other hand work out of the box and allow Nook to draw about 1.2A from them (even the native charger does not seem to draw more than this, about 7.5W according to my Kill-a-Watt display and also according to the battery current rate reported by the battery).
Anyway, I am providing two kernels, kernel for Nook HD+ and kernel for Nook HD
Flash the appropriate one for your device.
Then there's the control app: NookChargerControl.apk
Run the app, and it will present you with the main switch at the top (ignore the second switch, it's from the earlier experimentation and currently does not do anything).
If you flip the switch on, the charging is forced at 1.2A rate, no matter where you are connected (but see my earlier note about my iPhone chargers).
In addition to whatever physical measurements you are making, thee are two clues displayed about stuff:
The registers 00 and 08. When register 00 is 0x34 - that's indication of 1.2A, 0x32 = 0.5A, 0x30 = 0.1A, 0x37 should be 3A (When connected to power).
Also a battery-reported current is shown, this is your main clue about how much power does the battery really gets, negative values = discharging.
Tap anywhere on the screen to refresh the values, the battery rate reported sometimes takes several seconds to update, so do not panic if the values appear to be stuck for some time.
If you decide to try this, please report back in the thread with your findings.
In my testing, enabling the switch (while plugged into a computer) results in as much battery charging current as I am getting from B&N charger.
verygreen said:
There were some requests into forcing the charger controller in the Nooks to allow higher rate charging from non-B&N chargers.... If you decide to try this, please report back in the thread with your findings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Flashed new kernel and installed charger app. When I first turned on the charger app, I'm pretty sure it said "Reg00: 0x37". After turning on the "Force USB charger mode", Reg00 went to 0x34, and stays there whether I turn USB charger mode off or on. The "Battery current" started at 476000 and is now at 358000, but I'm pretty sure that's because it was already almost completely charged, and now it says it's at 100%, though the LED is still orange. All of these measurements are on the Nook charger. Haven't tried anything else yet.
dbrickg said:
Flashed new kernel and installed charger app. When I first turned on the charger app, I'm pretty sure it said "Reg00: 0x37". After turning on the "Force USB charger mode", Reg00 went to 0x34, and stays there whether I turn USB charger mode off or on. The "Battery current" started at 476000 and is now at 358000, but I'm pretty sure that's because it was already almost completely charged, and now it says it's at 100%, though the LED is still orange. All of these measurements are on the Nook charger. Haven't tried anything else yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks.
Using nook charger with this app is pointless, as it's already working (as are a bunch of other chargers from android devices).
So I guess it's being targeted at people who want to draw more power from their host computer or with incompatible chargers.
Tried with a 1amp Samsung charger. It Is showing 1092000 on an HD+
Force power 2
Reg 00 0x34
Reg 08 0xac
is this for cm10.1 or nook original os or both of them?
verygreen said:
Thanks.
Using nook charger with this app is pointless, as it's already working (as are a bunch of other chargers from android devices).
So I guess it's being targeted at people who want to draw more power from their host computer or with incompatible chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now if you could just write a kernel to make the nook compatible with normal USB cables... heh.
loverppc said:
is this for cm10.1 or nook original os or both of them?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's just for CM10.1
dbrickg said:
Flashed new kernel and installed charger app. When I first turned on the charger app, I'm pretty sure it said "Reg00: 0x37". After turning on the "Force USB charger mode", Reg00 went to 0x34, and stays there whether I turn USB charger mode off or on. The "Battery current" started at 476000....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wasn't sure if the Reg00 was originally 0x37 or not, so I reinstalled everything, and yes, it was. And for a better benchmark, when I first started charging it, with the battery at about 70%, using the nook charger, the "Battery current" was around 1670000.
Tried with this charger and neither port seems to work. Shows right around 0 for the charge amount on both ports so no charge or discharge. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088U4YAG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
On my nexus 4 and 7 it shows USB charging from apple port and ac from the other.
Also shows this for both ports
Reg00 0x32
Reg08 0x4c
Hope this info is useful.
paaco said:
Tried with this charger and neither port seems to work. Shows right around 0 for the charge amount on both ports so no charge or discharge. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088U4YAG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
On my nexus 4 and 7 it shows USB charging from apple port and ac from the other.
Also shows this for both ports
Reg00 0x32
Reg08 0x4c
Hope this info is useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
0x32 is 500mAh, so it tries to draw this much, but if charge current in the battery is 0, that means there's not enough power left after what's used by tablet itself with screen on.
I have this problem with my iPhone chargers, not sure how the charger controller differentiates.
Big win for me is with a computer port, where with the app and a new kernel I can draw much more current and keep battery charging even with the screen on
verygreen said:
0x32 is 500mAh, so it tries to draw this much, but if charge current in the battery is 0, that means there's not enough power left after what's used by tablet itself with screen on.
I have this problem with my iPhone chargers, not sure how the charger controller differentiates.
Big win for me is with a computer port, where with the app and a new kernel I can draw much more current and keep battery charging even with the screen on
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahh, I got you. It is nice having it charge from computer. Didn't know if your ultimate goal was to get it to work with as many chargers as possible so was trying to give you more info.
Either way, thanks for all the work you are doing and sharing to make our Nooks more enjoyable.
paaco said:
Ahh, I got you. It is nice having it charge from computer. Didn't know if your ultimate goal was to get it to work with as many chargers as possible so was trying to give you more info.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that was the original goal, but sadly doc does not match with the controller behavior, so current state is the best I could achieve at the moment.
Verygreen: I'm having a really hard time understanding what's happening with Nook charging.
When I plug into the original nook charger (and SOME other charges), the little light is YELLOW and the lightening bolt shows up in Android to indicate it's charging. However, it clearly charges slower in my portable charger (Monster cable charger) than with the nook charger.
It I plug it into apple compatible chargers (including my battery) the little light is GREEN rather than yellow. This is true even if I plug the nook cable into one of these a shorted cable (which will cause my Nexus 7 to go into high power charging mode).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-ONLY-...67?pt=Camera_Cables_Cords&hash=item58944a169b
Your system has two switches. "Force USB Charger Mode" and "Force 1A when charging". Your notes say ignore the Force 1A (second button)? I can't tell if the force usb charger mode does anything when the light is green. I get various numbers for battery current (seem to be all over the map)
In the monster charger, I get similar numbers whether Force USB is on or off, 100,000 - 200,000 current. I can't tell if it's better or not with Force USB on or off.
In the nook charger, I get around 700,000 current.
So it doesn't appear to be going into high power mode with Force USB in the Monster charger (which supports 1.5 amps).
In a windows usb port I get the green light and low charging current whether I enable or disable FORCE USB.
So, I'm confused.
I don't know if it's connected but it is certainly a battery issue which only presents itself on CM10.1 ... I mean I had it before in both stock and other roms but not nearly to that extend. Basically the rom seems to lose battery very fast and when it reaches 0% it simply switches off. If I boot at stock I can see I have around 40% left.
In other words battery is seriously misrepresented on CM and CM alone, other roms have nowhere near this kind of problem and every time I switch to them most of my battery issues solve themselves. It practically halves the battery life of the device for no good reason (ill-reporting). So VG, I guess it's better if you can take a look at it, it's something that I have seen reported by other people too, but it's quite of a hardle.
Your rom (CM) is basically the most complete but I always have to go elsewhere in search of/for battery life. It's the last big thing that needs to be solved and I think we're set. And -no- callibration never helps, it's not 100% that is misrepresented but 0%...
Thanks for your attention.
Stevethegreat said:
I don't know if it's connected but it is certainly a battery issue which only presents itself on CM10.1 ... I mean I had it before in both stock and other roms but not nearly to that extend. Basically the rom seems to lose battery very fast and when it reaches 0% it simply switches off. If I boot at stock I can see I have around 40% left.
In other words battery is seriously misrepresented on CM and CM alone, other roms have nowhere near this kind of problem and every time I switch to them most of my battery issues solve themselves. It practically halves the battery life of the device for no good reason (ill-reporting). So VG, I guess it's better if you can take a look at it, it's something that I have seen reported by other people too, but it's quite of a hardle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not sure what do you mean by "other ROMs", there are only two roms out there, this and B&N stock. Everything else is based on one of the two kernels and userspaces (or sometimes combinations of thereof).
Also, is there a point in time you can think of when this problem started if it did not happen from the get go? Did 6/24 and prior exhibit premature empty battery detection?
I do not drain battery on my nooks as it takes too long and means I cannot do anything to them in the meanwhile.
verygreen said:
I am not sure what do you mean by "other ROMs", there are only two roms out there, this and B&N stock. Everything else is based on one of the two kernels and userspaces (or sometimes combinations of thereof).
Also, is there a point in time you can think of when this problem started if it did not happen from the get go? Did 6/24 and prior exhibit premature empty battery detection?
I do not drain battery on my nooks as it takes too long and means I cannot do anything to them in the meanwhile.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By other ROMs I mean SGT7, Carbon and stock. Using any of the three I have misrepresentation of battery life for anything below 15%, on CM I have misrepresentation all the time. It always existed as a problem but not in this level, it only became worse with the latest builds. Maybe it's hardware issue but why is it made whose by CM, basically that's what I'm asking...
I know without logs I'm not much help but for the time being I have reverted to carbon and all is well. In a few days I will retry CM and have my logs sent then. What I can safely say by looking at other people's battery graphs is that it happens to others too' maybe not as dramatically (for someone it went from 50% to 30% in one instant), but it is there...
I'm on HD+ BTW
UK Car Charger
Being unable to source a B&N car Charger in the UK - I am assuming that this mod allows me to charge from any 1 or 2 amp car charger..?
Also does it only work with CM10.0 as I am currently running CarbonROM - mainly for the improved PIE controls on Expaned screen mode..?
LucaToo said:
Being unable to source a B&N car Charger in the UK - I am assuming that this mod allows me to charge from any 1 or 2 amp car charger..?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I cannot promise "any".
I found that apple (and apple-devices targeting) charges generally don't work.
On the other hand chargers that target android devices seem to be working all by themselves without any tweak. My sample size is not too big, though.
Also does it only work with CM10.0 as I am currently running CarbonROM - mainly for the improved PIE controls on Expaned screen mode..?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
depend on if the kernel support for it was added.
UK Car Charger
verygreen said:
I cannot promise "any".
I found that apple (and apple-devices targeting) charges generally don't work.
On the other hand chargers that target android devices seem to be working all by themselves without any tweak.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to be a pain but do you have any specific make/model car chargers that you could recommend (as most seem to be labelled as 'universal' regardless of whether they are intended for iPhone or Android)..?
Would an HTC or Samsung branded charger work for example..?
LucaToo said:
Sorry to be a pain but do you have any specific make/model car chargers that you could recommend (as most seem to be labelled as 'universal' regardless of whether they are intended for iPhone or Android)..?
Would an HTC or Samsung branded charger work for example..?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have any experience with car chargers.
There's a high chance Samsung charger will work, I think.
hi, since i got the phone (2 month) i was very surprised because the fast charge, 1 game of lol was enough to get 60% or more, but since last 4 or 5 days, i have noticed that it does not longer charge like before, it used to need around 1 and a 20 min to charge all the battery, but now it takes around 2 hours, like using a normal charger. Thanks, and btw english is not my first language :silly:
Happened to me once, rebooted the phone and fast charging was working again.
4chanz said:
hi, since i got the phone (2 month) i was very surprised because the fast charge, 1 game of lol was enough to get 60% or more, but since last 4 or 5 days, i have noticed that it does not longer charge like before, it used to need around 1 and a 20 min to charge all the battery, but now it takes around 2 hours, like using a normal charger. Thanks, and btw english is not my first language :silly:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
fastcharge works only with screen off and no app opened (es. game/video/music/etc)
Also make sure you using good quality cable. Some weak ones can "block" quick charge. Best setup is just the stock one.
superdioz said:
fastcharge works only with screen off and no app opened (es. game/video/music/etc)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue. EDIT: as przemo3679 says below, Qualcomm Quick Charge standard negotiates the higher voltage mode over the data pins, so "charge only" style cords with the data pins missing or shorted will not work in QC mode.
PhantasmRezound said:
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, the snapdragon 810 has overheating problems so if the screen is on the fastcharge is disabled, is the same reason because while you play and the phone heat up the display brightness cant be over 75%.
superdioz said:
no, the snapdragon 810 has overheating problems so if the screen is on the fastcharge is disabled, is the same reason because while you play and the phone heat up the display brightness cant be over 75%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does not disable the fast charge simply because the screen is on. That is how you keep phrasing it.
It disables fast charge if the phone is overheating. Technically this is not the same thing.
Many common usage factors (gaming, heavy mobile data use, high screen brightness, etc.) can make the heat build up fast enough to trigger thermal throttling and disable fast charge of course. But it is also possible to tweak the kernel and thermal files and adjust usage (light browsing only, use strong wifi in lieu of mobile radio, reduce screen brightness) to keep the phone in fast charge even when screen is on.
PhantasmRezound said:
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I disagree. If phone is charging, but not fast it is usually caused by damaged data lanes, or too big resistance on some lane. Cables without sync lanes would work on some devices, but would not on others, current will be limited to 500mA. It's hard to say on which.
And w/o data pins quick charge can't work on any device. Phone use it to communicate with charger to set best voltage and current to actual device.
As i said, original is the best. U can't blame damaged cord for charging issues.
I have a usb voltmeter and I can assure you that it use the 9V charging while the screen is on and also when it's in use (so the screen is on and the phone is in use). The amp only drop when percentage is near complete charging but stay at 9V so technically it still use fast charging.
Quality of the usb cable is very important but quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important. I can use a 3 meter usb cable for example, with a iPad charger (5V 2.1A and genuine) I can't even charge my flex 2 (it can't draw more than 300mA and the battery deplete more slowly but don't charge even is not in use). I won't explain why a higher voltage is less sensitive to resistance (the resistance rise with the lenght of the wire) but that's the reason we use high voltage line to transport electricity.
OP here. I use the stock charger and cable that came with the phone, plus they dont see damaged or very used. Still feeling it "slow" :s
I have H950 Stock 5.0.1 , sometimes quick charge doesn't work properly so I turn the power off and charge while off for half an hour it charges very fast and reaches over 70% then turn it back on
Le_Zouave said:
I have a usb voltmeter and I can assure you that it use the 9V charging while the screen is on and also when it's in use (so the screen is on and the phone is in use). The amp only drop when percentage is near complete charging but stay at 9V so technically it still use fast charging.
Quality of the usb cable is very important but quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important. I can use a 3 meter usb cable for example, with a iPad charger (5V 2.1A and genuine) I can't even charge my flex 2 (it can't draw more than 300mA and the battery deplete more slowly but don't charge even is not in use). I won't explain why a higher voltage is less sensitive to resistance (the resistance rise with the lenght of the wire) but that's the reason we use high voltage line to transport electricity.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree with You, in short words more current (A) means more temperature. At the same power (W) bigger voltage (V) means lower current (A). But i think u didn't get what i mean. There is some kind mechanism, which block quick charge when cable is too crapy. I had one of those, and it was fully functional witch data lanes, but it was designed to power 0,5A device. When i tried to connect it to the Flex it said slow charging (or something like that). I think it somehow measures resistance.
I also want to refer to your words: "quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important". It is advantage of the quick charge, but not main purpose. U can always made a bit thicker lanes. But you can't change connector. Remember that USB 2.0 standard was designed in april 2000, so it is a bit old now . Back in the days nobody was thinking about 5,5" monsters with 3Ah batteries. Flex is charging with around 15W and it is too much(it can dangerously hot, create arcs etc.). Remember that conductor heats up the most in the greatest resistance point, which is connector. Now we have USB type C, with better connector, which can hold on greater currents, but if we have standard, why did not use it (QC2.0 & QC3.0), and have thinner cord?
About charging time, mine from 0-10% to about 90% takes about an hour.
Guys i solved the problem, after noticing that now the animations (rotation, multitasking, and others) werent working, i decided to do a hard reset, now everything is working, fastcharge, animations, etc. not sure what was the cause, a friend told me was a virus for watching porn lol
przemo3679 said:
When i tried to connect it to the Flex it said slow charging (or something like that). I think it somehow measures resistance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see exactly what message you get, it's the same message when you connect to a computer, right?
It detect a computer and limit itself to 5V and 500mA which was the standard back in the time.
I know someone that fried a laptop motherboard with a vaping bypass, so that limit have purpose.
What is strange is if you get that message with a faulty cable and a lg fast charge charger because the charger should only send signal to negociate quick charge.
I don't think it can measure the resistance or the intensity, or at least the measurement is not monitored in some app because when I use a cable with high resistance and the battery percentage don't go up, I don't have that message.
Le_Zouave said:
I see exactly what message you get, it's the same message when you connect to a computer, right?
It detect a computer and limit itself to 5V and 500mA which was the standard back in the time.
I know someone that fried a laptop motherboard with a vaping bypass, so that limit have purpose.
What is strange is if you get that message with a faulty cable and a lg fast charge charger because the charger should only send signal to negociate quick charge.
I don't think it can measure the resistance or the intensity, or at least the measurement is not monitored in some app because when I use a cable with high resistance and the battery percentage don't go up, I don't have that message.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My bad with translation. If you have no data lanes phone will usually charge with 0.5A as You said, but when i used this crappy one it was something closer to "To maintain best performance use original standardized charger". It was charging faster than 0.5A, but it wasn't QC.
przemo3679 said:
My bad with translation. If you have no data lanes phone will usually charge with 0.5A as You said, but when i used this crappy one it was something closer to "To maintain best performance use original standardized charger". It was charging faster than 0.5A, but it wasn't QC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you mean the opposite, without the data pin (2 center pin on usb plug) the phone will think he is on a charger and don't limit itself for drawing current even if it's connected to a computer.
Normally a usb device have to be limited to 5V and 500mA,
But qc need the data pin to negotiate the qc voltage so if you use a usb cable without data pin it will stay at 5V.
I have one cable that top at 5V and 100mA (around 80mA normaly) it's very low and it can't charge the phone, it just make it lose battery more slowly, in that case I don't have the message you talk about. That message should appear when it's connected on a computer. My usb voltmeter also have a feature to block data pin, when that feature is activated the message don't pop and it draw more than 500mA from a computer.
There is a good voltmeter on aliexpress, I can make you the link but it's easily recognizable with a transparent blue case, around 10$. There is many model so be sure to take the quick charge compatible. You can make theory on many things but you can truly understand only if you try by yourself.
I just picked up a wireless fast charger for use in my car, and found out (via one of those USB power meters) that the S7 isn't actually fast charging even though it says it is. When the screen is off and the device is fully idle, it will charge at 7-12W (power input to the wireless fast charger) but when the screen is on, it drops down to 3-5W which is not even enough to maintain state of charge if I'm doing something like a phone call or GPS navigation. Any ideas why this is? Seems like it might be thermal related. I've got root and various tweaking apps, is there a way to force it to do full 10W charging whenever possible and throttle CPU instead if needed for thermals?
Found the answer to part of my question here: http://androidforums.com/threads/galaxy-s7-wont-fast-charge-if-the-screen-is-on.1002329/
It's by design that if the temperature is too high or the screen is on fast charging is disabled. Question remains if this can be bypassed by root commands/tweaks or not.
jkenny23 said:
Found the answer to part of my question here: http://androidforums.com/threads/galaxy-s7-wont-fast-charge-if-the-screen-is-on.1002329/
It's by design that if the temperature is too high or the screen is on fast charging is disabled. Question remains if this can be bypassed by root commands/tweaks or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It also depends on charger
As long fast charging is switched ON on your phone and the wireless charger does support fast charging, it will say that its fast charging.
However, if your phone while charging got hot or you are charging in a hot ambient temperature, the phone will charge at normal rates even less as the temps of the phone goes up. Thus the fan in the wireless charger
Btw am referring to the official samsung fast charger stand with a gs7, havent tried other brands.
Hope this helps
Hey guys,
I was looking for some clarification on this topic.
So I heard on a youtube video (can't remember which, for the life of me, I just know it was an S8 video) that Wireless Charging has a better impact on battery in the long run.
They had stated that the battery would continue to hold a better charge over time, where as, if you used wired charging, the amount of charge the battery can hold over time would be much less to when you first got it.
Now I do know that battery gets worse over time, however, I have never heard anything about how wireless charging can increase the longitivtiy of the battery.
Maybe someone on here might have more information on this?
I will try to find that youtube video but if this is the case, then I will definitely need to get a wireless charger.
Regards
Unless this youtuber tested 2 phones for a year, charging one with a cable and another with wireless charging i wouldn't listen to what they're saying.
peachpuff said:
Unless this youtuber tested 2 phones for a year, charging one with a cable and another with wireless charging i wouldn't listen to what they're saying.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I agree. A believe a charge cycle is the same regardless of how it is being charged.
Would never think wired charging puts more stress on battery life.
I think though that with wireless charging once the phone is fully charged the pad cuts out so it won't over charge
With a wired connection when the phone is charged its still consistently trying to charge which can end up damage battering the long term
craigels said:
I think though that with wireless charging once the phone is fully charged the pad cuts out so it won't over charge
With a wired connection when the phone is charged its still consistently trying to charge which can end up damage battering the long term
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is also what I have been wondering. If this is true then I may get a nice wireless pad for charging overnight (maybe the new official samsung "convertible" one but its damn expensive). I would have thought that the phone itself knows when a battery is charged and stops drawing the current from the cable though, so it would make no difference either way if that is true (but perhaps its not?).
But I did hear the exact opposite to op, that wireless charging was worse for the batteries, possibly due to the heat generated. But I don't know how true that is.
True
It's better for the battery because it charges it more slowly than a direct wired connection. There is no more heat buildup than using a wired charger, in fact likely less since the charging rate is lower.
As for the other comment that a wired charger doesn't shut off but keeps charging once the battery is full is patently false. The charging circuits whether wired or wireless are quite intelligent and gradually ramp down the charging current as the battery approaches capacity, ultimately delivering just enough current to keep the phone running. In a closed system the energy has to go somewhere and if the charger didn't do this you'd have 18W of power being dissipated as heat and a serious problem on your hands.
craigdamey said:
It's better for the battery because it charges it more slowly than a direct wired connection. There is no more heat buildup than using a wired charger, in fact likely less since the charging rate is lower.
As for the other comment that a wired charger doesn't shut off but keeps charging once the battery is full is patently false. The charging circuits whether wired or wireless are quite intelligent and gradually ramp down the charging current as the battery approaches capacity, ultimately delivering just enough current to keep the phone running. In a closed system the energy has to go somewhere and if the charger didn't do this you'd have 18W of power being dissipated as heat and a serious problem on your hands.
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For wireless I believe the heat generated is more, it is about the method of delivering the power, not the speed. The induction used to transfer power wirelessly is obviously going to be far less efficient and will generate more heat to get even a slower transfer rate then getting the power straight down a cable (but if someone knows otherwise then feel free to correct me). But then I guess the slower charging rate might also put less stress on the battery which is probably good.
For the wired, what you are basically saying is that leaving a phone plugged in to a wired charger will not harm it since the current will have been reduced in the same way a car battery charger might reduce it to a "maintenance" mode once it is fully charged. So people are believing the old myths that you can overcharge a phone, which would seem to be impossible (although I do wonder why they keep slapping up notifications saying things like "FULLY CHARGED! UNPLUG CABLE!" as if leaving it plugged in would in some way damage it!).
Just saw this which explains the overcharging possibility (or lack of)
http://www.androidauthority.com/leave-phone-plugged-overnight-703078/
ewokuk said:
For wireless I believe the heat generated is more, it is about the method of delivering the power, not the speed. [/url]
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The coils themselves don't generate a significant amount of heat, it's the battery itself that causes the phone to get hot. Slower charging means less heat, which is better for your battery so wireless charging will increase your battery life. As the article notes it is also best to keep your phone above 40% charge, partly because fast chargers slow down significantly after 50% to save the battery. That initial burst from 0-50% is done to save you from a dying battery but it takes its toll.
Also note that the S8/S8+ have new battery technology that provides much improved battery life. They're saying 5% loss of capacity after two years compared to 20% for previous generations.
As a bonus not continuously plugging/unplugging a cable from your USB port will make that last longer too. I hardly ever plug my S7 Edge into a physical cable, and I know quite a few people who have killed their USB ports and can no longer charge and or transfer data from them.
craigdamey said:
The coils themselves don't generate a significant amount of heat, it's the battery itself that causes the phone to get hot. Slower charging means less heat, which is better for your battery so wireless charging will increase your battery life. As the article notes it is also best to keep your phone above 40% charge, partly because fast chargers slow down significantly after 50% to save the battery. That initial burst from 0-50% is done to save you from a dying battery but it takes its toll.
Also note that the S8/S8+ have new battery technology that provides much improved battery life. They're saying 5% loss of capacity after two years compared to 20% for previous generations.
As a bonus not continuously plugging/unplugging a cable from your USB port will make that last longer too. I hardly ever plug my S7 Edge into a physical cable, and I know quite a few people who have killed their USB ports and can no longer charge and or transfer data from them.
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Yeah I am torn at the moment between using cable and getting a wireless charger. I like my stuff charged asap but that's partly because i never leave it plugged in overnight and want it charged before bed (which I now know is not a problem anyway) and partly because i want to be able to unplug it to use it if i get a message or email, which isn't an issue with wireless as I can just pick it up and put it back on there after. I assume taking it off the charging pad and putting it back on will not have any detrimental effects to the battery. I am just trying to weigh up the pros and cons of each. All things considered I am leaning towards wireless, particularly if it isn't worse for the battery (although lets face it the difference in degradation between wireless and wired, is going to be so small it's probably not even noticeable after a couple of years by which time I would have a new phone anyway). I wonder if there is a better wireless charger which will be more future proof than the new convertible samsung one (in case I ditch samsung in future) and still give max speed, I would like one that is tilted so I can see the screen though.
My s5 is 3 years old and has only ever been charged by the massive double width "micro USB" cable which takes some force to get in and out of the socket. Still works perfectly though. Never had any usb port of any kind on any device fail, no idea what these other people are doing to kill them!
ewokuk said:
Yeah I am torn at the moment between using cable and getting a wireless charger.
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Having the dock by my bed is very convenient. Just place it on at night and pick it up during the morning. If I need to grab it for anything I can without getting tangled up in wires and it even sits at the right angle so that the always on display becomes my nightstand clock/alarm clock. Once you've gone wireless you won't go back.
craigdamey said:
Having the dock by my bed is very convenient. Just place it on at night and pick it up during the morning. If I need to grab it for anything I can without getting tangled up in wires and it even sits at the right angle so that the always on display becomes my nightstand clock/alarm clock. Once you've gone wireless you won't go back.
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I always turn my phone off at night anyway so I don't get disturbed by some spam message or something (I know I can probably set it up to be silent at certain times, but then why leave it on at all, using the battery for nothing). £70 for that Samsung charger though!! I know there are much cheaper ones but I am not sure they will charge at the same rate, the new samsung one charges faster than any previous wireless charger AFAIK and I would want one where the phone can sit up, and most are just flat. Hmmmm although the do have it for £50 on amazon sold by "fonejoy", still steep though.
This one looks good https://www.amazon.co.uk/CHOETECH-W...=UTF8&qid=1492192247&sr=1-9&keywords=choetech but not sure if itll charge at the same speed as the new samsung one and doesnt use a USB-C connector which probably rules it out. May as well just get the samsung one.
I use the US version of this and it works fine. https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Mobile-P...d=1492192742&sr=1-5&keywords=rav+power+qc+2.0. The Fast Charging Dock comes with a cable so that should be all you need.
And yes, I have my Do Not Disturb settings to suppress notifications 10:30PM to 6:30AM. Wife complained she couldn't sleep with all that noise going on
craigdamey said:
I use the US version of this and it works fine. https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Mobile-P...d=1492192742&sr=1-5&keywords=rav+power+qc+2.0. The Fast Charging Dock comes with a cable so that should be all you need.
And yes, I have my Do Not Disturb settings to suppress notifications 10:30PM to 6:30AM. Wife complained she couldn't sleep with all that noise going on
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Thats a wall charger? I'm talking about the charging pad itself. I believe the new Samsung one outputs 15w so is faster than any previous ones which are all 10w I think.
ewokuk said:
Thats a wall charger? I'm talking about the charging pad itself. I believe the new Samsung one outputs 15w so is faster than any previous ones which are all 10w I think.
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There are only two types of charging dock, standard and fast-charge. None of them output 15W to the phone. The expensive Samsung is just a fancy fast-charge dock so it will charge at the same rate as the Seneo and others that support fast-charge. The Samsung fast-charge adapter only provides a maximum output power of 15W (9V @ 1.67A) so it would require 100% transfer efficiency to charge the phone at that power, and in reality it's only about 65% so at most you'll see 10W versus standard Qi charging at around 7W.
All of the Seneo chargers I have coupled with RavPower or Samsung Fast-Charge adapters charge at the same rate (10W to begin with tapering off to 7W above 50% charge).
craigdamey said:
There are only two types of charging dock, standard and fast-charge. None of them output 15W to the phone. The expensive Samsung is just a fancy fast-charge dock so it will charge at the same rate as the Seneo and others that support fast-charge. The Samsung fast-charge adapter only provides a maximum output power of 15W (9V @ 1.67A) so it would require 100% transfer efficiency to charge the phone at that power, and in reality it's only about 65% so at most you'll see 10W versus standard Qi charging at around 7W.
All of the Seneo chargers I have coupled with RavPower or Samsung Fast-Charge adapters charge at the same rate (10W to begin with tapering off to 7W above 50% charge).
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Ahh ok, I will have to check out a few seneo pads.
If your using fast charging AKA Adaptive charging it shouldn't matter either way. The Fast charging port on the phone, and the wireless charging should go through the phone and the phone should automatically stop all charging going to the battery. This is the reason why if you were to leave your fast charger on all night whether it be Wireless or wired, you can pick your phone up at 99% or 98% instead of 100%. The phone stopped charging, then when it drops to a certain % it starts to charge up again.
As far as which is actually best for strain, it shouldnt matter because afaik to the battery its the all the same. Wireless charging just has some coils almost that send the charge wirelessly, but it still goes to the same place.
This is what I have read from google, so I am no expert on the subject, but it seemed pretty legit, and makes sense to me, a person with a Tech background. If anyone knows better please be my guest.
I'm going with wireless charging pads at home but a magnetic cable for in the car.
Not found a good car holder that has the wireless pad built in so I will stick with my ibolt for a bit longer
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
There is no correct answer to this question. Battery life is function of many things -
1. Every battery has specified charge cycle. One full charge from min to max is 1 cycle. Two full charge from mid to max is also 1 cycle. So the more you use your device, charge cycles will come to an end more quickly. For example if you use two similar spec phones; first one you use heavily requiring full cycle charge everyday vs second which you use less and requires full charge every alternate day (or to phrase in other way, first is almost completely discharged by evening, second is half discharged). So the theory goes that second phone battery will last double the time than first.
2. Every battery articles you read, you will find recommendation to charge battery in specified current or usually slow charging. Today's battery technology should be immune to this but I still turn fast charging off. It is likely that not all the batteries are immune.
3. Heat is bad for battery. Some wireless chargers heat up. The TYLT VU that I use get uncomfortably warm when I place phone vertically (possibly coils do not align and multiple of them gets activated). Heat build up is there during fast charging too. If you play CPU intensive games and charge at the same time, phone gets warm. All this heat is working negative to the life span of battery.
4. Lithium ion batteries have less chemical stress when they are not fully charged or fully discharged. If you research you will find articles telling one to keep battery between 40% to 90%. Hence I usually do not charge to 100% and if I do, I watch or play games to bring battery level down. Search for best charge level to store lithium ion batteries, I think it is from 45% to 50%. This I guess keeps batteries at the least chemical stress state. So do your maths if you are type who likes to keep battery at 100% charge at all the times.
As you can see there is no straight answer to this question. Battery life is function of all these factors.
Added: I didn't read full article but you can check this link which speaks about impact of heat and leaving battery to full charge state.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
Thanks for everyones input on this!
By the way, not sure if it has been mentioned, but this is a pretty cool read:
http://www.androidpolice.com/2017/0...ill-degrade-less-quickly-than-the-galaxy-s7s/
So looks like the S8 won't deteriorate as much over time!
I got the OEM samsung convertible fast charging pad but it doesn't come with a wall plug as I read somewhere (I guess thats just us in the UK getting screwed over yet again). The manual says "Use only Samsung-approved chargers that support fast charging (9v/1.67A, 9v/2A, 12v/2.1A).". So I need a wall plug that will be able to provide the fastest charging speeds from it (which I am guessing is one that does 12v/2.1A??). I dont think all the standard plugs with 2.4a sockets are going to do it right? The "30w" RAVpower one that craigdamey linked says it can do 12v/2A but only for QC3.0 (which I obviously wont get since its just being plugged straight into the charging pad), otherwise its 5v/2.4a. Not sure what one to get now. Theres an Anker 24w one but that says 2.4a per port (I know little about electrics and how these things work!).
So I got an adapter to use a wired headset with my phone, it's one of those that allows for both headphone use and charging, though you need to plug in both, but I notice after I tested them out, my estimated battery drain declined all the way down to 9 hours remaining from a charge of 89 percent.
It used to be anywhere from 23 hours to a whole day, did I just break my battery? I'm not in a position where i can replace it if it goes wrong, especially since I just got this a month ago.
Checked it and it doesn't show any apps sucking power, I also disabled various bloatwares to make sure it would run smoothly.
I only had this phone since December and I made sure to charge it when needed, keeping it at around 40-80% charge as much as I could.
Phone is a OnePlus 8 5G, battery drain before was about a whole day before I needed to charge unless I were watching videos, and even with that it still lasted a good while.
It's not a good idea to use and charge the phone as it disrupts the charging curve*. If the screen is off and the device power usage is minimal like listening to music on bt does not interfere with normal charging, at least on my 10+.
Give the phone it's quiet time to charge.
Limit charges to 80% preferable 70% and discharges to 30% preferably 40% to maximize battery life.
Avoid going under 20% or full charges to 100% as it needlessly stresses the battery.
Li's love short, frequent midrange usage like from 40-65%
Li's hate high heat (>100°F) and high cell voltages ie >90% charge.
Avoid charging below 72°F as it can cause Li plating which will permanently degrade it.
Never attempt to charge if below 32°F.
*if you're drawing power whilst charging the device you can not gauge its actual battery capacity. It will charge much slower or maybe not at all.
Stop that you!
Take a 10 or 15 minute break and let get it take a charge.
blackhawk said:
It's not a good idea to use and charge the phone as it disrupts the charging curve. If the screen is off and the device power usage is minimal like listening to music on bt does not interfere with normal charging, at least on my 10+.
Give the phone it's quiet time to charge.
Limit charges to 80% preferable 70% and discharges to 30% preferably 40% to maximize battery life.
Avoid going under 20% or full charges to 100% as it needlessly stresses the battery.
Li's love short, frequent midrange usage like from 40-65%
Li's hate high heat (>100°F) and high cell voltages ie >90% charge.
Avoid charging below 72°F as it can cause Li plating which will permanently degrade it.
Never attempt to charge if below 32°F.
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I don't use it when it's charging, it's a OnePlus with warp charging so I let it sit until it's either full or usually at around the 80 range.
It seemed fine until I tried using this headset adapter, I don't know if these can break the battery in any way so i don't know if just using this messed something up.
MarkiMarko2221 said:
I don't use it when it's charging, it's a OnePlus with warp charging so I let it sit until it's either full or usually at around the 80 range.
It seemed fine until I tried using this headset adapter, I don't know if these can break the battery in any way so i don't know if just using this messed something up.
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If you have fast charging just use the standard fast charging cable to charge it not the daul use one.
The latter may not be recognized by the phone for fast charging, if so it will default to slow charging.
blackhawk said:
If you have fast charging just use the standard fast charging cable to charge it not the daul use one.
The latter may not be recognized by the phone for fast charging, if so it will default to slow charging.
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Warp Charging works yeah, I'm returning the headset cable and replacing it, since i don't know if it messed my system up, and aside from that it's clunky to use.
Amazon.com: VOLT PLUS TECH USB C to 3.5mm Headphone Jack Audio Aux & C-Type Fast Charging Adapter Compatible with Your OnePlus 8and Many More Devices with C-Port : Electronics
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It was this thing.
do you think my battery is just messed up at this point or is it fine? Battery estimates used to show 23 hours to a whole day, but now it's down to 9 hours so I don't know if that messed up my battery somehow.
I doubt it messed up the battery especially if it's been only a week or whatever.
More than likely it's a misbehaving apk(s) causing the drain.
If your battery's rated capacity is 1000 mAh and you're only getting 400 mAh out of it, then you have a battery issue. How long it can run doesn't reflect battery condition unless the load is the same as before. So you need to scrutinize it further before making the assumption the battery has deteriorated.
I use two overlay apks (Accubattery is one) that let me see total current draw in near real time. I'm running Pie and doubt these will run in Q.
At idle my draw is an average of 150 ma or so with lows going down to 79 ma. If I see it averaging 300 ma with spikes going to 800 ma at idle I go looking for the cause.