need a bright flash light mod. - Sony Xperia XZ Premium Questions & Answers

need a bright flash light mod. - Sony Xperia XZ Premium Questions & Answers

Hello guys!
in my previous phone (xperia z2) i downloaded and replaced a file called flashled.calc.parameters.cfg and it made the flashlight very bright. i dont know what values to change in the file for xz premium. can someone help me pls?
here's the original file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m3sRtciBH1vCMQInty7R9TJwjPP74TDj/view?usp=sharing
many thanks in advance.

I was wondering about that.
I know that using the LED as a flashlight beyond its intended purpose (a camera flash) may deteriorate its performance, but in its current form it is pretty poor.

4rz0 said:
I was wondering about that.
I know that using the LED as a flashlight beyond its intended purpose (a camera flash) may deteriorate its performance, but in its current form it is pretty poor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed, we dont use it all the time. only when needed like night time or someplace dark. but i used the mod on z2 and the flashlight was equal to other smartphones like s7/8 and/or lenovo. flash used to get hot so i never used it for more than 1/2 minutes.
lets see if someone can help with that .cfg file

I'm also looking for a solution.
The light is tremendously low, indeed I can do virtually more light with display than with the led. I had the same problem with Z5 Compact and Xz Premium, while when I had Sony M4acqua I had no problems, it worked perfectly.
The same problem with led notifications, values should also be increased there, they are too low...

Nobody knows a solution?

up

enige1993 said:
up
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
still waiting for someone to help

Saadkhalid786 said:
still waiting for someone to help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To me, those parameters seem to be fairly simple to parse.
So lets break it down:
v_batt_thres_num = 5 <- Means there are 5 different brightness values.
v_batt_0 = 4200,4100,1000000 <- Means the first value is valid when the battery voltage is between 4.2V and 4.1V and supplies 1,000,000uA (or 1 Amp) to the LED.
v_batt_1 = 4100,3700,900000 <- Same as above, only for battery between 4.1V and 3.7V with the LED getting 900mA.
v_batt_2 = 3700,3500,800000 <- Next level down. When the battery voltage has sagged to 3.7V-3.5V, only supply 800mA to the LED.
And so on.
If you want to increase the brightness, then change the last number, which appears to be measured in micro-Amps (uA).
I really wouldn't go much over 1 Amp though. The LED will generate a lot of heat, which could cause a number of problems, including melting the solder joints making it non-functional, burning out due to an overcurrent situation, having its brightness reduced over time due to premature phosphor degradation, and even heat induced problems in nearby components.
The problem you're seeing is likely due to the LED current being reduced when the phone's battery is low.
So, if you aren't concerned about battery life, then as a starting point, you could change all the final values to 1000000.
From there, if you still want it brighter, then move up in 100mA increments. Like 1100000, then 1200000.
Bear in mind that LEDs tend to be more efficient at lower current levels.
So going from 1000mA to 1100mA is going to have less of an increase in brightness than the jump from 900mA to 1000mA.
There comes a point where more power does not equal more brightness, and at 1000mA, you're already dumping around 3.5W of heat into the phone (White LED at 3.5Vf * 1Amp = 3.5 Watts).

pbarrette said:
To me, those parameters seem to be fairly simple to parse.
So lets break it down:
v_batt_thres_num = 5 <- Means there are 5 different brightness values.
v_batt_0 = 4200,4100,1000000 <- Means the first value is valid when the battery voltage is between 4.2V and 4.1V and supplies 1,000,000uA (or 1 Amp) to the LED.
v_batt_1 = 4100,3700,900000 <- Same as above, only for battery between 4.1V and 3.7V with the LED getting 900mA.
v_batt_2 = 3700,3500,800000 <- Next level down. When the battery voltage has sagged to 3.7V-3.5V, only supply 800mA to the LED.
And so on.
If you want to increase the brightness, then change the last number, which appears to be measured in micro-Amps (uA).
I really wouldn't go much over 1 Amp though. The LED will generate a lot of heat, which could cause a number of problems, including melting the solder joints making it non-functional, burning out due to an overcurrent situation, having its brightness reduced over time due to premature phosphor degradation, and even heat induced problems in nearby components.
The problem you're seeing is likely due to the LED current being reduced when the phone's battery is low.
So, if you aren't concerned about battery life, then as a starting point, you could change all the final values to 1000000.
From there, if you still want it brighter, then move up in 100mA increments. Like 1100000, then 1200000.
Bear in mind that LEDs tend to be more efficient at lower current levels.
So going from 1000mA to 1100mA is going to have less of an increase in brightness than the jump from 900mA to 1000mA.
There comes a point where more power does not equal more brightness, and at 1000mA, you're already dumping around 3.5W of heat into the phone (White LED at 3.5Vf * 1Amp = 3.5 Watts).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
im sorry but im a complete noob in this. the flash is same in full battery or low .i dont want it to be too bright, just want it to be equal to all other phones with very good brightness. can u edit and upload the file pls?
much thanks for your response.

It's entirely possible that they just use a pretty poor LED in the phone.
I may try to figure that out.
Also, how can we make sure the torch toggle is using the highest possible battery threshold and not just always the lowest one?

4rz0 said:
It's entirely possible that they just use a pretty poor LED in the phone.
I may try to figure that out.
Also, how can we make sure the torch toggle is using the highest possible battery threshold and not just always the lowest one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i realized the flash is brighter than when toggled with torch button. for example take a picture with flash and look at flash. the first flash (focusing) will be lower, and the second flash (capturing) will be very bright.
on my previous xperia z2 i downloaded a modded file and the flash was way brighter. and i think it has the same flash as previous flagship models.

but where is the file?

enige1993 said:
but where is the file?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already deleted the firmware image I extracted, but if I recall correctly, it's in /system/vendor/etc/.

Here is the original file if someone will lost it.
Anyway I've just tried to set all the parameters to 1,5A (1500000value), but I can not see significant changes...
Infact it's really so less bright than other devices ever with just one led, but WHY?
Do you think that increasing those value to 2A or little more is too mutch the risk?

Related

[Kernel][EB13/EC05][Battery][Experimental] Tweaked Battery Charging Kernel

:[Disclaimer]:
Use this at your own risk!
:[Extra Disclaimer]:
This alters the way the Epic charges the battery.
Precaution has been taken to not exceed "normal" values, but when dealing with batteries (and their various sources and quality) there is always a chance something could go horribly wrong.
If you are in any way worried about this, then please move on, as this is not for you.
If you bought an extended battery off ebay and are worried your battery might explode, then please move on, as this is not for you.
This should be considered experimental, and only people who wish to experiment should use it.
There may come a time this will be incorporated into more (all?) kernels, but until then, you have been warned!
:[Requirements]:
Built for and tested on EB13 / EC05 EXT4.
:[Description]:
This is a tweak of the values that are used by the Epic to determine when the battery is at it's fully charged state, and when it should begin it's recharge state.
This is built on Bonsai 3.0.1
It includes the following: tun support, cifs support, 1.2GHz Overclock, autogroup scheduling, keyboard fix (thanks mkasick), video mode fix (thanks again mkasick), etc.
Thank you to all the devs who have contributed and I haven't listed (pm me).
I have also implemented nullghost's Idle timer from 2.6.34 thanks to ACS and nullghost.
[update]
I have also implemented the changes from the EC05 kernel, thanks to Rodderik.
And the scaling_available_frequencies sysfs interface thanks again to nullghost.
[update]
Attached source files for those who want them.
:[Features]:
Alters the "fully charged notification" to be more accurate.
Charges the battery to near full capacity.
Allows for less drain before the "recharge" kicks in.
Gives you a better chance at having a full charge when unplugging.
[update]
Provides over charge protection in the form of a max voltage cut-off.
Increased charge rates (mA) in both USB and AC modes.
There is a chance this change could cause fire or explosion!
Understand this is trial and error!
Even tho I've tested this for the past couple days, there is still a chance you will have a problem where I have not!
Especially if you use a charger other than a stock charger (rated at 0.7A)!
!!Again, you have been warned!!
Adjusted calculations for the fuel gauge (battery level percentage).
I have added a few kernel debug messages that can be seen using dmesg.
"OS Monitor" free in the market will allow you to view them (filter tag = [BATT).
:[What this does not do]:
This does not alter any of the following built in protections:
Max total charge time of 5 hours.
Max total recharge time of 2 hours.
Low battery voltage condition of 3400 (used for auto shutdown).
Low battery level condition of 0 (used for auto shutdown).This does not change the charge rate (current coming from the charger).
So no, it wont charge your phone faster (well technically it does, but only during the higher voltages where you would normally be "recharging" on a stock kernel).
:[Recommendations]:
Go download the free app "Battery Monitor Widget". Go into the settings and make sure that "Monitor without widget" is enabled (checked).
The app has a really nice history feature that I find useful, and can be used to help track things with this kernel.
:[Details]:
From the code (original and older values commented out)::
(Some line numbers might be a little off, as I have added some debug messages.)
[Full charge and Recharge adjustments]
Kernel/drivers/power/victory/s5pc110_battery.h: Line 166
Code:
#define BATT_RECHARGE_COUNT [COLOR="Blue"]15[/COLOR]//20
Kernel/drivers/power/victory/s5pc110_battery.h: Lines 170 ~ 173
Code:
#define OVER_CHARGE_COND_VOLTAGE [COLOR="Blue"]4210[/COLOR]// nubecoder
#define FULL_CHARGE_COND_VOLTAGE [COLOR="Blue"]4190[/COLOR]//4170//4000
#define RECHARGE_COND_VOLTAGE [COLOR="Blue"]4150[/COLOR]//4140//4110 // 2010.05.08.
#define RECHARGE_COND_VOLTAGE_BACKUP [COLOR="Blue"]4090[/COLOR]//4110//4000
Kernel/drivers/power/victory/s5pc110_battery.h: Lines 184 ~ 185
Code:
#define CURRENT_OF_FULL_CHG [COLOR="Blue"]60[/COLOR]//90//91 // 2010.05.08.
#define CHG_CURRENT_COUNT [COLOR="Blue"]15[/COLOR]//20
Which means:
When voltage is greater than or equal to 4190(mV) and current is less than or equal to 60(mA), full charge has been achieved.
When voltage is below 4150(mV) or 4090(mV), recharge activates (what determines if "backup" is used a Samsung mystery).
The current and recharge count values are also somewhat of a mystery, I decreased them to have a bit more consistent charge behavior.
[Over charge protection]
Kernel/drivers/power/victory/s5pc110_battery.c: Lines 438 ~ 444 and 458 ~ 464
Code:
if (s3c_bat_info.bat_info.batt_vol >= OVER_CHARGE_COND_VOLTAGE) {
s3c_set_chg_en(0);//Set charge off
s3c_bat_info.bat_info.batt_is_full = 1;
force_update = 1;
}
Which means:
If voltage is greater than or equal to 4210mV stop charging.
[Increased charge rate]
Kernel/drivers/regulator/victory/max9889_function.c: Line 3092
Code:
reg_buff[0] = (0x0 <<5) |(0x3 << 3) | /*(0x5<<0)*/ [COLOR="Blue"](0x6<<0)[/COLOR] ; // CHG_TOPOFF_TH=10%, CHG_RST_HYS=Disable, AC_FCGH=600mA // ???mA
Kernel/drivers/regulator/victory/max9889_function.c: Line 3106
Code:
reg_buff[0] = (0x0 <<5) |(0x3 << 3) |/*(0x1<<0)*/ [COLOR="Blue"](0x3<<0)[/COLOR] ; // CHG_TOPOFF_TH=10%, CHG_RST_HYS=Disable, AC_FCGH=380mA // ???mA
Based on some rudimentary calculations this translates to:
Code:
AC: @320mA which translates to @704mA
USB: @249mA which translates to @548mA
Note:: This was tested with a stock cable and charger for AC, and a stock cable and a direct laptop port for USB.
For more information read this post.
[Adjusted fuel gauge (battery level percentage)]
Kernel/drivers/power/victory/fuel_gauge.c: Line 159
Code:
adj_soc = (((data[0]*10) - 15) * 100) / (/*950*/ [COLOR="Blue"]980[/COLOR] - 15); // hanapark_Atlas
Which means:
Instead of rounding 95% up to 100% round 98% up to 100%.
:[WishList]:
Fixing the battery percentage output to be more accurate. (Partially done, we'll see how it goes.)
Adjusting the values to what I feel is the best charging experience (while still remaining "safe").
Possibly(?) increasing the charge rate to enable faster charging.
:[Testing]:
This has been tested on an Epic 4G running Bonsai 4.0.0b2 with a stock battery.
This build has not been tested on an extended battery (yet).
:[Feedback]:
Please post your feedback, I'd like to know some of the values reported when full charge occurs, when recharge starts / stops, if you've noticed your battery keeps charge longer / less, etc...
[Download HERE]
Download no longer available...
:[Special thanks]:
jaronow, for initial testing.
:[ChangeLog]:
Code:
v0.0.2 (03-22-2011)
Attached current source files to this post.
v0.0.2 (03-22-2011)
Added over charge protection cut-off of 4210mV.
Increased full charge voltage to 4190mV.
Increased recharge cond voltage to 4150mV.
Decreased recharge backup cond voltage to 4090mV.
Decreased full charge current condition to 60mA.
Decreased charge current count to 15.
Decreased recharge count to 15
Increased charge rate for AC from an estimated 600mA to @ 704mA.
Increased charge rate for USB from an estimated 380mA to @ 548mA.
Adjusted fuel gauge to be more accurate.
v0.0.1 (03-16-2011)
Initial Release
=]

Guinea Pig Number #1 reporting for duty!!! My phone booted up ok and did not explode!
I am using the Midnight Rom 4.2 Byor Edition so far my phone has booted up ok. I am charging my phone right now as we speak. I will do benchmark speeds when my phone is done charge up fully. I wiped my partination cache and the Dilvke cache too. I am trying to get a full charge.

Sweet Awesome work bro 8)

is this just a kernal flash? can't see what the file is from work. also, is it still the bonsai kernal? so smart ass governor still an option?
is it relatively simple to jack up the charge rate? my friends iphone charges in like an hour or less. mine takes at least 3 hours. annoying to say the least.

removed root for me

What makes the smartass governor special.
Can I keep my phone on 1.2 GHZ and the smartass governor will only use as much power it needs to complete the task at hand or would I save battery life by putting my phone on 800 MHz or it does not matter? Great Rom Kernal fast and efficient. The first time I flashed it I go slow benchmark scores but the score kept on improving and now they are pretty close to the score on the Bonsai Rom Kernal and this Rom gives you a fuller battery charge. I am loving this Kernal I highly recommend it. It is the best kernal I have tried so far and I have tried a lot of kernals in my day. This experimental kernal is the best kernal I have put in my phone this could be my daily driver. I have to give it a full day's test. So far so good not problems to report yet.

thank you! loved this kernels on my evo! will try today/tonight!
ms79723 said:
removed root for me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you running syndicate? i think i read the other day that root is in the kernel in syndicate. just run the 1 click root again

The other day I was looking at how to get a little more "umph" from the USB port charging. Do you think that we could tinker with this
Code:
static void s3c_set_chg_en(int enable)
{
int chg_en_val = maxim_chg_status();
if (enable) {
if (chg_en_val) {
if(curent_device_type==PM_CHARGER_TA)
maxim_charging_control(PM_CHARGER_TA, TRUE);
else if (curent_device_type==PM_CHARGER_USB_INSERT)
maxim_charging_control(PM_CHARGER_USB_INSERT, TRUE);
else{
maxim_charging_control(PM_CHARGER_DEFAULT, FALSE);
}
s3c_set_time_for_charging(1);
}
} else {
maxim_charging_control(PM_CHARGER_DEFAULT, FALSE);
s3c_set_time_for_charging(0);
s3c_bat_info.bat_info.batt_is_recharging = 0;
s3c_bat_info.bat_info.batt_current = 0; // hanapark_Victory
}
s3c_bat_info.bat_info.charging_enabled = enable;
}
Making it think that is never is plugged into anything but the wall charger would cause a little more current to be pushed through, and since we only pull like 600 mah from the wall, I think a could USB port/ Cord could handle it.
If none of that makes since, just tell me. I haven't spent more than a few minutes reading through the code that is there, and I really don't know too much about this stuff anyways.

Is this similar to the evo's sbc kernal where it will allow to fully (Trickle) charge an extended battery?

robl45 said:
is this just a kernal flash? can't see what the file is from work. also, is it still the bonsai kernal? so smart ass governor still an option?
is it relatively simple to jack up the charge rate? my friends iphone charges in like an hour or less. mine takes at least 3 hours. annoying to say the least.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes this is just a kernel, and yes this is based on the Bonsai kernel, anything that is included in the sources available here is included.
I've also added the 2.6.34 Idle timer that nullghost has given to us (taken from the ACS github, Thanks for your hard work guys!).
ms79723 said:
removed root for me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems that some Roms have root included in the kernel, which is not the case for Bonsai (and therefore this kernel as well).
ps- Thanks for your work on the SBC kernel for the Evo! This was definitely inspired by it.
vide infra said:
thank you! loved this kernels on my evo! will try today/tonight!
[snipped]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
asj2583 said:
Is this similar to the evo's sbc kernal where it will allow to fully (Trickle) charge an extended battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is not quite the same as the SBC kernel for the Evo (this does not trickle-charge).
It differs in that, the Epic already performs a "bump-charge" by default.
This kernel is a simple modification of the values used to determine when the bump charging occurs, etc.
So this is, more or less, just a modification of the stock charging behavior.
=]

Kcarpenter said:
The other day I was looking at how to get a little more "umph" from the USB port charging. Do you think that we could tinker with this
Code:
[snipped]
Making it think that is never is plugged into anything but the wall charger would cause a little more current to be pushed through, and since we only pull like 600 mah from the wall, I think a could USB port/ Cord could handle it.
If none of that makes since, just tell me. I haven't spent more than a few minutes reading through the code that is there, and I really don't know too much about this stuff anyways.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You sir, get a separate reply ;]
You are correct that you could change that code to force the USB into thinking it's being charged via AC, but I feel that would be a bad choice in implementation.
Rather check the code here:
/drivers/regulator/victory/max8998_function.c Lines: 3089 ~ 3118
Code:
else if(dev_type==PM_CHARGER_TA)
{
// hanapark_Victory (2010.05.12)
[COLOR="Blue"]reg_buff[0] = (0x0 <<5) |(0x3 << 3) |(0x5<<0) ; // CHG_TOPOFF_TH=10%, CHG_RST_HYS=Disable, AC_FCGH=600mA[/COLOR]
reg_buff[1] = (0x2<<6) |(0x3<<4) | (0x0<<3) | (0x0<<1) | (0x0<<0); //ESAFEOUT1,2= 10, FCHG_TMR=disable, MBAT_REG_TH=4.2V, MBATT_THERM_REG=105C
#ifdef CONFIG_KERNEL_DEBUG_SEC
kernel_sec_clear_upload_magic_number(); // hanapark_DF01
#endif
Set_MAX8998_PM_ADDR(CHGR1, reg_buff, 2);
//printk("%s TA charging enable \n",__func__);
}
else if(dev_type==PM_CHARGER_USB_INSERT)
{
value = FSA9480_PMIC_CP_USB();
// hanapark_Victory (2010.05.12)
[COLOR="Blue"]reg_buff[0] = (0x0 <<5) |(0x3 << 3) |(0x1<<0) ; // CHG_TOPOFF_TH=10%, CHG_RST_HYS=Disable, AC_FCGH=380mA[/COLOR]
if(value){
if (askonstatus)
reg_buff[1] = (0x1<<6) |(0x3<<4) | (0x0<<3) | (0x0<<1) | (0x0<<0); //ESAFEOUT1,2= 01, FCHG_TMR=disable, MBAT_REG_TH=4.2V, MBATT_THERM_REG=105C
else
reg_buff[1] = (0x3<<6) |(0x3<<4) | (0x0<<3) | (0x0<<1) | (0x0<<0); //ESAFEOUT1,2= 11, FCHG_TMR=disable, MBAT_REG_TH=4.2V, MBATT_THERM_REG=105C
}
else
reg_buff[1] = (0x2<<5) |(0x3<<4) | (0x0<<3) | (0x0<<1) | (0x0<<0); //ESAFEOUT1,2= 01, FCHG_TMR=disable, MBAT_REG_TH=4.2V, MBATT_THERM_REG=105C
#ifdef CONFIG_KERNEL_DEBUG_SEC
kernel_sec_clear_upload_magic_number(); // hanapark_DF01
#endif
Set_MAX8998_PM_ADDR(CHGR1, reg_buff, 2);
//printk("%s USB charging enable \n",__func__);
}
I believe it would be better to adjust the values marked above.
But I'm no good with bit shifting code, and I haven't yet figured out what to change the values to.
Of course we (you?) could simply change the value and see what happens, but I prefer to (at least somewhat) understand what I'm doing when I apply a change.
So that is why I haven't messed with it yet, more research needs to be done IMO.
If you do decide to try this, let me know how it goes.
And remember the USB spec says that it only gives out 500mA max.
=]

Well in that case ill be building tonight..... just needed a little refirmation from someone. Makes me sleep bettr at night.
Sent from my Samsung-SPH-D700 using XDA App

FWIW, we used something from no2chem called "Fast Charge" on WinMo, back when I used a Diamond.
It would charge around 900 maH(much less than Diamond's 1340 MaH battery) on USB and AC and drop down(trickle charge) once it reached 90 percent.
"A quick test from a usb2 port shows the following approx values:
At 50% charge, charges at 918mA
50 minutes later, battery is at 90% and charging at 462mA"
Batteries can accept up to their mA in charging, and since the batteries aren't usually spot on to their rated mA, I'd say we'd be safe up until about 1200 mA charging.
If all that makes sense, it's been a while since I've devved and had to learn all that good stuff.
EDIT: @Kcarp: I've got like 4 OEM batteries here, I'm willing to put at least one of them towards testing, assuming it's not going to harm the phone and would be a battery only affair.

mA and mAh are completely different units, one measures current and one measures capacity.
Sent from my Samsung-SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

My Battery has been charging for 4 hours and it is at 60%
My battery has been charging for 4 hours and it is only at 60% what gives? It is at taking a long time to recharge my battery.

intx said:
FWIW, we used something from no2chem called "Fast Charge" on WinMo, back when I used a Diamond.
It would charge around 900 maH(much less than Diamond's 1340 MaH battery) on USB and AC and drop down(trickle charge) once it reached 90 percent.
"A quick test from a usb2 port shows the following approx values:
At 50% charge, charges at 918mA
50 minutes later, battery is at 90% and charging at 462mA"
Batteries can accept up to their mA in charging, and since the batteries aren't usually spot on to their rated mA, I'd say we'd be safe up until about 1200 mA charging.
If all that makes sense, it's been a while since I've devved and had to learn all that good stuff.
EDIT: @Kcarp: I've got like 4 OEM batteries here, I'm willing to put at least one of them towards testing, assuming it's not going to harm the phone and would be a battery only affair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, I always loaded the fast charger drivers from no2chem on my TP1 and TP2. Enjoyed the increased charging rate from the car charger, usb, and other chargers.
That's the one thing I missed when I moved from the TP2 to the Epic...the Epic was god awful slow at charging!

Well, forgot that the hdd on my laptop has become "unstable" gotta go buy one, probably be tomorrow night before I can build I might try building anyways...it still boots, just locks up and makes god awful noises...we shall see I guess.
Sent from my Samsung-SPH-D700 using XDA App

jamice4u said:
My battery has been charging for 4 hours and it is only at 60% what gives? It is at taking a long time to recharge my battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you have reported is not normal behavior.
Did you get the battery monitor widget? Could you post some of the history?
I would suggest you unplug from the charger, reboot into CWM, clear the battery stats, and reboot.
Sometimes the percentage readout behaves strangely, some people have reported that rebooting the phone drastically changes their reported percentages.
(Not on this kernel, but it's been mentioned at least a couple times in the Bonsai thread.)
Maybe you are experiencing this?
If you battery has been charging for 4hrs+ and isn't increasing it's percentage, then something is going wrong and needs to be investigated.
This is where the monitor widget comes in handy, what voltage is being reported, what current (mA) is being pumped into the phone, etc.
=]

i tried the kernal, took like 3 1/2 hours to charge up from 35% or so. but i dont know that we are really gaining much, what are we getting,another 2%?
if we could increase the charge rate, that would be something.

Here are 2 bugs I would like to report you loose root, the superuser icon is there, but you can't let special apps ask for permission. 2nd, the kernel is not supported for wirless tether, I am using the snydicate rom if that makes a difference.
Thanks for the kernel, I see great promise in it

4.0.4 battery corrected?

Have upgraded my 9023 to 4.0.4 after rooting. The UI and animation are visibly faster but the battery life seems to be the same. I read some people say the battery life is better... Is there an optimized settling for the same? Also what is a better setting for the brightness? Minimum or Auto?
Thanks

Doubt the battery life is going to be noticeably better or worse. The main change regarding the battery is that they fixed the battery stats, it calculated the AndroidOS usage wrong which skewed all of the results. This has no effect on battery life.

Thank You. Could you also suggest what is the optimal brightness setting to save battery? Minimum or auto? Common sense would suggest minimum but I have seen a lot of people say auto brightness works best?

Minimum saves the most battery. Auto uses a tiny (negligible amount) bit more as it powers the photodetector (light sensor) while the screen is on, however it will scale up the brightness when there is excessive light in the room, and lower it eventually when it's dark (this takes longer than i'd like, some ROMs allow adjustments). Generally, it's best to keep it on auto unless you know the conditions you will be in for most of the day.

Harbb said:
Minimum saves the most battery. Auto uses a tiny (negligible amount) bit more as it powers the photodetector (light sensor) while the screen is on, however it will scale up the brightness when there is excessive light in the room, and lower it eventually when it's dark (this takes longer than i'd like, some ROMs allow adjustments). Generally, it's best to keep it on auto unless you know the conditions you will be in for most of the day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Harbb for your contribution ...
Honestly 4.0.3 was fast for me (and faster by the way from GB)...I never noticed 4.0.4 is faster than 4.0.3 in anything but maybe a bit in browser ...

Thanks Harbb. Will try on auto.

[GUIDE] Undervolting and You

Introduction:
If you’re reading this, I’m going to assume that you want to learn something new. I love sharing knowledge with others, so I hope you do as well. With that being said, please understand that I’m doing this in my spare time, and have no degree of any kind on this topic. What I’ve compiled here is a pretty good guide to explain and hopefully educate some of you on a highly talked about, but widely misunderstood concept of CPU architecture.
Before we begin, I need to make sure you all understand a few basic concepts of electricity. I can’t teach you new material if you don’t know the language, right?
Terminology:
Voltage
The first term is, of course, voltage. Voltage is defined as the difference in electrical potential between two points. What does that mean, I’m sure you wonder? Well, to put it simply, think of a fire hydrant. When the valve is opened to let water into a hose, from the hydrant, it rushes in all at once to the end of the hose. It sits there in the hose until the nozzle is opened to put out the fire. The force that pushes the water forward is called water pressure, and like water pressure, voltage pushes the electrical current along as well. So, we will think of voltage itself as the force or pressure being applied behind an electrical current to keep it moving.
Amperage
Next up is the term, amperes. In short this is the electrical current itself. An ampere, or amp for short, is the actual unit of measurement for the amount of electricity passing a single point in a circuit at one time. This might seem confusing, so let’s just keep it simple and think of an amp as the electrical current itself. In the fire hose example, the amperage would be the water inside the hose.
Wattage
Last up is something called a watt. Now, this one can get tricky, so stick with me. A watt literally measures the rate of energy conversion or the transfer of energy. So, essentially, the watt measures the amount of work done over time. This is where it gets tricky and a little confusing. Wattage, in the fire hose example, would be the amount of water that the fire hose can hold. This is the work, or wattage, generated by the hose while operating under a constant flow of water. Now, that’s the tricky part right there. ‘Work’ in this example isn’t a normal 9-5 job. It is, more simply put, the overall capacity of the hose. A normal household lightbulb is rated around 60 watts. This means that while it’s on, it is producing a constant amount of light. This constant amount is 60 watts, which is its peak brightness under constant current.
So, to sum these three terms up as simply as possible, think of voltage as pressure, amperage as the current, and wattage as the capacity.
Example
One final example should help with this analogy. We’ve all seen those wacky waving inflatable arm flailing tubemen before, right? If not, or if you’ve never seen Family Guy before, it’s basically a long, nylon tube that is open at both ends. One end is attached to a fan at the bottom, while the other end is left open for air to escape. When the fan at the bottom is turned on, it begins to generate wind that inflates the tube and causes it to rise off the ground and flail about in the air. In this example, the voltage is the air pressure keeping the tube floating, the wind flowing through the tube is the amperage, and the amount of wind needed to make the tube rise off the ground is called the wattage.
Undervolting:
Myth or fact?
Let’s go ahead and start off with a bang, shall we? First, let me make it clear to you that no matter what people tell you, undervolting your CPU will not magically make your battery last five days longer than it should. I’m not saying it doesn’t save battery at all, because it does. It just doesn’t save as much as you’ve probably been led to believe. On any average smartphone battery under normal conditions, you should not expect an increase of more than a few percent while undervolting.
Does this mean you should stop undervolting altogether? Not at all! Quite the contrary, actually. Undervolting is actually a very good thing for your smart phone when you do it correctly. Undervolting has one major positive effect on your CPU: it will extend the life of your processor by allowing it to do demanding things with lower heat generation. In the tube example from before, undervolting would be like reducing the fan speed as low as possible while still keeping the tube in the air. The air pressure lowers along with the wind current, or amperage. Due to the now lower amount of pressure, the amount of wind being pushed through the tube (amperage, remember?) is lowered slightly as well. This, in turn, prolongs the life of the nylon tube itself by putting less strain on it while it’s flapping around in the breeze. It’s kind of like how a flag flying in the breeze will last longer than one you fly on the back of your truck while you drive down the highway.
Summary:
Now that we’ve learned all this, what does it all mean? Well, going back to the nylon tube example, the tube itself is the CPU. So, all three properties discussed before come into play here around the nylon tube (CPU). The air pressure forces the wind up through the tube and causes the tube to raise in much the same way as the voltage from your battery causes the electrical current to flow along the circuits through the CPU. Wattage is simply the maximum amount of juice flowing from the battery keeping everything running at the same current.
All this nylon tube talk is only here to show you how the act of undervolting your CPU actually affects the processor itself. Yes, it does reduce stress on your CPU. Yes, it does reduce the drain on the battery. No, it will not likely produce a result that you’ve been hyped up to believe. The effects of undervolting your CPU are minimal at best, and should, in my opinion, only be used if you want your CPU to run a bit cooler under demanding tasks, such as using a heavy GPS app, like CoPilot, for a few hours, or while playing graphics intensive games for a while. Outside of that, you may gain about 30 minutes of extra run time on your battery on average (everyone’s phone is different, this is a rough average), or another couple of months of life on your CPU. Keep in mind that CPUs last many years on average under normal use, notwithstanding defects or abuse.
I’m certainly not telling you to avoid undervolting. I undervolt all my devices, including my personal computers. This post is meant to be informative since most people do this without understanding most of the concepts, while they buy into the hype generated around this. My main point is that the main reason you should undervolt is to keep the heat down on your device while you do demanding things. After all, you have a device in your hands today, most likely, that is more powerful than most desktop PCs just a few short years ago. Why wouldn’t you want to get everything out of it?
Bonus example:
Yet another example of voltage and amperage is your own cell phone charger. Most cell phone chargers now are 5V (volt), 1A (ampere/amp) chargers. This means that there are 5 volts pushing the 1 ampere electrical current to your phone over the USB cable. Wattage comes into play here in the electrical outlet. Most US electrical outlets are rated at 125 watts. Most cell phones are rated at 4-5W (watts) per hour. This means, that the outlet will still have a capacity of 120 or so watts per hour left over while your phone is charging.
How to undervolt:
The procedure for undervolting is different for each device (normally), so I’m not going to show anyone how to do it here. There are a few apps on the market that can help you do it if your kernel supports this feature. If you don’t know if your kernel supports this feature, please ask your ROM chef. Most, if not all, stock ROMs do not support this.
Apps:
The following apps will allow you to tweak your voltage settings if your kernel/ROM allow it. Root is required. There are many more on the market, but these are a few of the most popular ones.
System Tuner Pro
Set CPU
Voltage Control
IncrediControl

Reserved

Thanks for the info CFB
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

cajunflavoredbob said:
Introduction:
If you’re reading this, I’m going to assume that you want to learn something new. I love sharing knowledge with others, so I hope you do as well. With that being said, please understand that I’m doing this in my spare time, and have no degree of any kind on this topic. What I’ve compiled here is a pretty good guide to explain and hopefully educate some of you on a highly talked about, but widely misunderstood concept of CPU architecture.
Before we begin, I need to make sure you all understand a few basic concepts of electricity. I can’t teach you new material if you don’t know the language, right?
Terminology:
Voltage
The first term is, of course, voltage. Voltage is defined as the difference in electrical potential between two points. What does that mean, I’m sure you wonder? Well, to put it simply, think of a fire hydrant. When the valve is opened to let water into a hose, from the hydrant, it rushes in all at once to the end of the hose. It sits there in the hose until the nozzle is opened to put out the fire. The force that pushes the water forward is called water pressure, and like water pressure, voltage pushes the electrical current along as well. So, we will think of voltage itself as the force or pressure being applied behind an electrical current to keep it moving.
Amperage
Next up is the term, amperes. In short this is the electrical current itself. An ampere, or amp for short, is the actual unit of measurement for the amount of electricity passing a single point in a circuit at one time. This might seem confusing, so let’s just keep it simple and think of an amp as the electrical current itself. In the fire hose example, the amperage would be the water inside the hose.
Wattage
Last up is something called a watt. Now, this one can get tricky, so stick with me. A watt literally measures the rate of energy conversion or the transfer of energy. So, essentially, the watt measures the amount of work done over time. This is where it gets tricky and a little confusing. Wattage, in the fire hose example, would be the amount of water that the fire hose can hold. This is the work, or wattage, generated by the hose while operating under a constant flow of water. Now, that’s the tricky part right there. ‘Work’ in this example isn’t a normal 9-5 job. It is, more simply put, the overall capacity of the hose. A normal household lightbulb is rated around 60 watts. This means that while it’s on, it is producing a constant amount of light. This constant amount is 60 watts, which is its peak brightness under constant current.
So, to sum these three terms up as simply as possible, think of voltage as pressure, amperage as the current, and wattage as the capacity.
Example
One final example should help with this analogy. We’ve all seen those wacky waving inflatable arm flailing tubemen before, right? If not, or if you’ve never seen Family Guy before, it’s basically a long, nylon tube that is open at both ends. One end is attached to a fan at the bottom, while the other end is left open for air to escape. When the fan at the bottom is turned on, it begins to generate wind that inflates the tube and causes it to rise off the ground and flail about in the air. In this example, the voltage is the air pressure keeping the tube floating, the wind flowing through the tube is the amperage, and the amount of wind needed to make the tube rise off the ground is called the wattage.
Undervolting:
Myth or fact?
Let’s go ahead and start off with a bang, shall we? First, let me make it clear to you that no matter what people tell you, undervolting your CPU will not magically make your battery last five days longer than it should. I’m not saying it doesn’t save battery at all, because it does. It just doesn’t save as much as you’ve probably been led to believe. On any average smartphone battery under normal conditions, you should not expect an increase of more than a few percent while undervolting.
Does this mean you should stop undervolting altogether? Not at all! Quite the contrary, actually. Undervolting is actually a very good thing for your smart phone when you do it correctly. Undervolting has one major positive effect on your CPU: it will extend the life of your processor by allowing it to do demanding things with lower heat generation. In the tube example from before, undervolting would be like reducing the fan speed as low as possible while still keeping the tube in the air. The air pressure lowers along with the wind current, or amperage. Due to the now lower amount of pressure, the amount of wind being pushed through the tube (amperage, remember?) is lowered slightly as well. This, in turn, prolongs the life of the nylon tube itself by putting less strain on it while it’s flapping around in the breeze. It’s kind of like how a flag flying in the breeze will last longer than one you fly on the back of your truck while you drive down the highway.
Summary:
Now that we’ve learned all this, what does it all mean? Well, going back to the nylon tube example, the tube itself is the CPU. So, all three properties discussed before come into play here around the nylon tube (CPU). The air pressure forces the wind up through the tube and causes the tube to raise in much the same way as the voltage from your battery causes the electrical current to flow along the circuits through the CPU. Wattage is simply the maximum amount of juice flowing from the battery keeping everything running at the same current.
All this nylon tube talk is only here to show you how the act of undervolting your CPU actually affects the processor itself. Yes, it does reduce stress on your CPU. Yes, it does reduce the drain on the battery. No, it will not likely produce a result that you’ve been hyped up to believe. The effects of undervolting your CPU are minimal at best, and should, in my opinion, only be used if you want your CPU to run a bit cooler under demanding tasks, such as using a heavy GPS app, like CoPilot, for a few hours, or while playing graphics intensive games for a while. Outside of that, you may gain about 30 minutes of extra run time on your battery on average (everyone’s phone is different, this is a rough average), or another couple of months of life on your CPU. Keep in mind that CPUs last many years on average under normal use, notwithstanding defects or abuse.
I’m certainly not telling you to avoid undervolting. I undervolt all my devices, including my personal computers. This post is meant to be informative since most people do this without understanding most of the concepts, while they buy into the hype generated around this. My main point is that the main reason you should undervolt is to keep the heat down on your device while you do demanding things. After all, you have a device in your hands today, most likely, that is more powerful than most desktop PCs just a few short years ago. Why wouldn’t you want to get everything out of it?
Bonus example:
Yet another example of voltage and amperage is your own cell phone charger. Most cell phone chargers now are 5V (volt), 1A (ampere/amp) chargers. This means that there are 5 volts pushing the 1 ampere electrical current to your phone over the USB cable. Wattage comes into play here in the electrical outlet. Most US electrical outlets are rated at 125 watts. Most cell phones are rated at 4-5W (watts) per hour. This means, that the outlet will still have a capacity of 120 or so watts per hour left over while your phone is charging.
How to undervolt:
The procedure for undervolting is different for each device (normally), so I’m not going to show anyone how to do it here. There are a few apps on the market that can help you do it if your kernel supports this feature. If you don’t know if your kernel supports this feature, please ask your ROM chef. Most, if not all, stock ROMs do not support this.
Apps:
The following apps will allow you to tweak your voltage settings if your kernel/ROM allow it. Root is required. There are many more on the market, but these are a few of the most popular ones.
System Tuner Pro
Set CPU
Voltage Control
IncrediControl
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great post but I still have a few questions - How do we know what are safe values to undervolt to and what aren't? I'm on the HTC Mecha so my issue may be slightly different.

Klonopin said:
Great post but I still have a few questions - How do we know what are safe values to undervolt to and what aren't? I'm on the HTC Mecha so my issue may be slightly different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Re-read the heading in the OP that says "How to undervolt."

Great guide for anyone wanting to learn about undervolting and CPU. So simply stated that Even an apple user could understand this. :thumbup:
AT&T SGS3
ParanoidKangDroid 1.1.0
KT747 10/28 OC'ed & UV'ed
Medical MJ Supporter

Dankest said:
Great guide for anyone wanting to learn about undervolting and CPU. So simply stated that Even an apple user could understand this. :thumbup:
AT&T SGS3
ParanoidKangDroid 1.1.0
KT747 10/28 OC'ed & UV'ed
Medical MJ Supporter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aww. That's not nice. Lol

Good job guys. Why don't I requote the entire passage to thank the op instead of hitting the thanks button.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Xparent ICS Tapatalk 2

hariskoirala said:
thanks for the information!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for quoting a long post like a douchebag.

Markuzy said:
Good job guys. Why don't I requote the entire passage to thank the op instead of hitting the thanks button.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Xparent ICS Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, please do. You're not cool unless you do it. /sarcasm
I don't understand those guys...

cajunflavoredbob said:
Thanks for quoting a long post like a douchebag.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He's probably post farming with useless "Thanks/me too/excellent/this is useful" posts to get the min 10 posts...
All such people should be reported.

Markuzy said:
He's probably post farming with useless "Thanks/me too/excellent/this is useful" posts to get the min 10 posts...
All such people should be reported.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably so. Those guys don't understand how easy it is to make ten useful posts.

Epic thanks for the guide its pretty easy for dummies like me to follow

nikufellow said:
Epic thanks for the guide its pretty easy for dummies like me to follow
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad you enjoyed it. I was hoping to make it as simple as possible. I'm glad it worked.

Very useful info
Thanks
Sent from my ST25i using Tapatalk 2

Really informative thread. Helped clear a lot of confusions. Wish everyone explained things this nicely.

Very nice. Thanks be clicked.
WHO DAT!!

Can you please tell a rough estimate of safe range. Or is there no danger in undervolting?
Sent from my IM-A770K using xda app-developers app

When I undervolt, I do a little at a time and make sure things are stable before trying again.. Make sure u do a nandroid and if u have any trouble, you can always boot into recovery and restore if u can't change ur voltages back to where they were stable.. Just my 2¢
From my rat infested note ii

What are your CPU and batt temperatures?

Just wanna ask around to check if I'm the only one who feels my phone is a tad bit too hot?
Usually when not charging , the batt temps are around 34-38°C, with the CPU in the range of 38-45°C
When charging the batt goes up to 38°C - 44.7°C or even overheating in the 45-50°C range( ok this would be my fault in using heavier apps)
And the CPU would stay in the range of 40°C - 55°C even without use sometimes

Those temperatures aren't out of the ordinary for this device, that's pretty normal actually. I've had my battery temperature go between 50-55°C fairly regularly, and even as high as 66°C without the phone shutting down (I did cool it down very quickly upon seeing how hot it was though).
Sent from my Evita

timmaaa said:
Those temperatures aren't out of the ordinary for this device, that's pretty normal actually. I've had my battery temperature go between 50-55°C fairly regularly, and even as high as 66°C without the phone shutting down (I did cool it down very quickly upon seeing how hot it was though).
Sent from my Evita
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks timmaaa, for a moment I thought I was the only one.

I use Battery Mix to record my temperature vs. Battery % over time (use the JB feature to disable its persistent notification): https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jp.smapho.battery_mix&hl=en
One thing I've noticed is that when it hits 40C+, the space below the camera becomes extraordinarily hot! This happens at least once during a work day, especially happens when I don't touch the device.
When this happens, the drain rate just plummets (when I refer to the battery level slope vs. the phone temperature). However, a reboot fixes the heat (and as a result, the drain rate) over a lengthy amount of time.
I've heard of this, but haven't gotten around to trying it successfully:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/ht...g-red-while-charging-rapid-battery-drain.html

That shouldn't happen while you're not using the phone. Have you used an app like BetterBatteryStats to identify what's draining your battery?
Sent from my Evita

well this was previously answered by timmaa i had a similar concern cause none of my earlier phone actually felt that warm...
but when i got a green signal that these are normal temperatures, i tried gaming for almost an hour turns out the phone was hot indeed the battery was around 50+ but still the phone dint shut down itself or showed any inconsistency in its functions!
moral of the story.. it happens with everyone.. my friend has a endeavor it also suffers from heating... its so normal that if u search it in google that "why does ht one x get..... "it automatically completes it in with " get hot"(also for the new One).
if you want to cool it down get SET CPU and create a profile in which select battery temperature/cpu temperature at a certain temperature you don't want your phone to exceed and then set the cpu to a lower speed typically till 1026 or 1134...
but again if u feel its necessary cause doing so will obliviously slow down the device.:angel:

Sonone said:
moral of the story.. it happens with everyone.. my friend has a endeavor it also suffers from heating... its so normal
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course its normal. All computers generate heat as power is discharged. Manufacturers are also packing more and more computing power into these small devices, and in general that means more heat (although there are other variables). And every smartphone is designed to deal with the heat differently, so those might be some reasons why your previous phones did not feel as warm.

redpoint73 said:
Of course its normal. All computers generate heat as power is discharged. Manufacturers are also packing more and more computing power into these small devices, and in general that means more heat (although there are other variables). And every smartphone is designed to deal with the heat differently, so those might be some reasons why your previous phones did not feel as warm.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
true that!!
even i was actually worried before hearing about it being normal from u and timma as well!
its probably htc one x is build that way.
BTW sorry a little off topic since this issue has already been resolved has anyone heard a little rattling sound near the camera region only when the phone is sharked up and down (from screen to back)
this also is a build issue!

Sonone said:
BTW sorry a little off topic since this issue has already been resolved has anyone heard a little rattling sound near the camera region only when the phone is sharked up and down (from screen to back)
this also is a build issue!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Totally normal. Just a moving part in the camera module. Likely related to autofocus as you can sometimes hear a sound when focusing the image.
Sent from my HTC One XL using xda app-developers app

Razer Phone screen auto-dimming due to thermal profile; possible to change?

Hello XDA community,
As I am sure a few of you have experienced, the Razer Phone will drop the maximum device brightness substantially as a result of even a moderate system temperature increase. For me, this occurs consistently after I am running any GPU intensive game for more than 5-10 minutes (CSR 2, Black Desert Mobile etc.)
Is it possible to change or turn off this function in any way? The maximum NITS of the device is not impressive to begin with. Having the brightness potential effectively cut in half whenever I run Youtube in HD is rather ridiculous. I have read conflicting reports that some users brightness potential will 'default' after a period of lite use, but this is not the case with my device. I am forced to restart the device entirely to regain its original maximum brightness capability.
Does this community have any thoughts on a potential fix? Are there many other users out there experiencing this problem as well?

Yes same issue even when just watching video or YouTube. It drives me nuts. It's like brightness is turned down half way. It bloody awful and needs sorting. Would prefer the device to underclock rather than dim the screen. ?

**UPDATE** Possible fix for this issue.
Good morning XDA,
I have been spending some free moments working on a solution to this problem and I may have found it.
I recently rooted my device and installed Kernel Auditor to edit my build.prop....KA also allows the modification of pretty much any value you can think of--this includes the enable/disable of thermal profiles. When I toggled off ALL thermal profiles I no longer experienced the screen dimming phenomenon--the negative byproduct of course is that your phone will turn into a hot pocket. More testing to follow, but for those that are rooted I would appreciate it if you could try and replicate my results!
tl;dr -- Kernal Auditor > Thermal category > disable all 3 thermal profiles > no screen dimming/phone turns to lava.

No don't do it. Turning the throttling off completely will fry the main board and CPU / memory chips. Don't do it trust me I killed my last phone doing the same thing. It's the CPU that needs to throttle back not the screen brightness. Really don't understand why they would lower brightness rather than just throttle back the CPU.

arnookie said:
No don't do it. Turning the throttling off completely will fry the main board and CPU / memory chips. Don't do it trust me I killed my last phone doing the same thing. It's the CPU that needs to throttle back not the screen brightness. Really don't understand why they would lower brightness rather than just throttle back the CPU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They do throttle the cpu but it takes enough heat.
The reasom the screen dimms is because of the heat pipe that is connected the back of the display. Disabling such mechanism might put the backlight LED to risk. But that seems less likely.

iliais347 said:
They do throttle the cpu but it takes enough heat.
The reasom the screen dimms is because of the heat pipe that is connected the back of the display. Disabling such mechanism might put the backlight LED to risk. But that seems less likely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have a source for that information? I have seen from tear-down videos that the heatpipe is indeed attached to the back of the lcd panel, but I have not found any information on the specific mechanism of action that causes the thermal screen dimming.
Any information anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated.
-R

Rumaea.Timbre said:
Do you have a source for that information? I have seen from tear-down videos that the heatpipe is indeed attached to the back of the lcd panel, but I have not found any information on the specific mechanism of action that causes the thermal screen dimming.
Any information anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated.
-R
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do not have any source but i have seen other phones di the same thing due to heat. The LED might burn i guess but i do not see that likely.although that would such to have a half lit desplay.

The same thing happens to me!!
After 10 minutes of playing the screen looses a big amount of brightness!
I masst to restart the phone to make the screen to be at his full brightness!
This is annoying!! Is not like it is a cheap phone!
They should fixed this problem a while ago!
But they don't!!

Database Info

welcome