What's New:
"The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them." - xdabbeb
Instructions:
1) Do a backup in recovery, or backup the original files to be overwritten (check ZIP for names).
2) Flash.
AOSP
1) Flash.
NOTE: If these work on your variant and it's not on the list below, let us know so we can add it.
STOCK ROM
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed (Mirror)
AOSP-based ROM (EXPERIMENTAL)
DOWNLOAD - v2
DOWNLOAD - v1
AOSP-based ROM Notes
The low-light FPS increase may not be in effect.
Burst is not working (but is available and may cause issues).
The intelligent auto does not work in low-lighting.
FC occurs when switching to front-camera, or using Panorama settings.
Confirmed Variants for Stock:
F320KE11
VS98011A (VZW)
D802A
D802B
LS980 (Sprint)
D800
Confirmed Variants for AOSP-based:
D802B
D803
D800 (AT&T)
LG Optimus 2x (P990)
Confirmed ROMs for Stock:
Stock rooted on all confirmed variants.
Malladus (VZW)
Grievous (D800)
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.3):
AOSP
HeatshiverSX (AOKP)
OSE (VZW)
Carbon
PACman
PA
Slim ROM
CM10.2
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.4):
PA
Gummy (VZW)
CM11
SlimKat
LucidPhusion
Create a Flashable ZIP Backup
1) If you would like to make a ZIP backup simply download the ZIP file for the update and make a copy.
2) Download a file explorer like ES Explorer or Root Explorer.
3) Open up the update ZIP and look at all the names of the folders, those will be mimicked in your phone's system folder.
4) Check the files within the folders of the update ZIP and note all the names, these will also be mimicked in your phone.
5) Use your file explorer and copy all the mimicked files in your phone to your SD card.
6) Connect your phone to your PC.
7) Move all your files to somewhere easily accessible.
8) Open (do not extract) the update ZIP copy with 7z or WinRAR.
9) Go into each folder (except META-INF) and copy over the files from your phone to the update ZIP copy.
10) Once you are done you now have a flashable ZIP to revert back to your previous state.
Camera NOT Showing in 4.3/4.4 Fix
If the AOSP camera is not appearing in the app drawer, first stop the camera that comes with the ROM, clear that camera's data, and then disable it. Reboot the phone and the AOSP camera should now be present. If it is not, then it is likely disabled. Re-enable it and that should get it to display.
Credits: xdabbeb, sefnap, Jishnu Sur
Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??
Tried this on the Sprint version. Didn't work. First time I installed the apks my phone did a boot loop twice and updated Android. Then I copied all the files into the other locations now my camera FC.
Sent from my LG-LS980 using xda app-developers app
edangel said:
Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java
Thinking about trying this. I'll be smart and nandroid. I'll let you know in about 30 minutes. I'm att
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4
I was in the process of making some flashable additions for "my" ROM so here goes a flashable update and one to revert.
It removes and adds the necessary files.
Here's a flashable restore: http://www.adrive.com/public/bZgr7H/LGCamera_Restore.zip
If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.
This did work for me. I over wrote all the files and changed their permissions then deleted the odex files for the gallery and camera. The video focus is not fixed so not really worth the time IMO but thanks for sharing!!
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4
I'm playing with it and I've noticed no difference. I'm still getting watercolor photos.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
great work!thx
Looks like viewfinder now is less laggy. And at last i got the menu like in all reviews, before i had a strange Verizon moded camera without pics in menu and without Auto Flash in A.I. mode.
Anyway need to test it in low light conditions in the evening.
xdabbeb said:
If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, just wanted to know if you have any comment on this particular post someone made in another thread regarding the camera:
ZigZagJoe said:
TL;DR: Use sports mode. If desperate, try forcing ISO to 800.
Did some more testing of the camera. Sports mode does indeed bias towards faster shutter speeds - usually seems to pick ISO 400 where normal/auto would have used a shutter speed two stops slower and ISO 100. If sports mode is not cutting it, set ISO 800 and hope. If you don't get it at ISO 800, you won't get it with the default camera app. Some third party apps (I tried FV-5) allow you to specify ISO 1600, but image quality will be even worse. Really, just get a real camera out or get into better lighting.
Something else I have to mention is if you are using the modified camera app, if the guy did indeed manage to modify the actual amplification levels, what he did will reduce performance in regards to capturing moving objects as it will force a slower shutter speed - not entirely sure that guy knows what he is monkeying with.
My personal theory on the slow focus in low light is its being caused by the camera dropping below 1/30th of a second shutter speeds in favor of getting a proper exposure to be able focus precisely. If this is the case, forcing it to underexpose to get a smooth preview and faster focus could result in it being unable to focus.
There is a workaround for that, though, and focusing on moving objects: use the manual focus feature LG was so kind to include and set it to infinity focus. As long as you are about 3 feet or more from the object being photographed, everything will be in focus and there will be no shutter lag.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Who is this ZigZagJoe Elite Recognized Dev?? If he thinks I'm a noob, please fix all the problems of the camera. Seems like He made the camera for the LG G2. If you did, man you are a bad engineer! !
Heatshiver said:
and provides a simple method to turn off the camera click sound.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not working in my f320k. Camera ver. 4.3.1
javahuan said:
Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks...deleting the odex files made camera working..
@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
@KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.
Heatshiver said:
@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
@KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Image quality definitely gets worse as ISO increases - saturation and fine detail take a dive off a cliff, to say nothing of noise. Fine detail loss is then compounded by overzealous noise reduction. Quality loss is more noticeable in these cameras due to the tiny sensor.
Yes, it makes sense that sports mode would increase shutter speed, but without documentation to that effect, who knows what it might do? For all I knew it could just be applying filters and/or changing WB like the other modes seem to do. Not sure what landscape mode does, even. Probably modifies saturation. Exposure settings increasing and decreasing framerate would make sense as it'd be changing exposure by decreasing/increasing shutter speed. Only time you'd have things out of focus is if they are closer than 3 feet, which is the approximate hyperfocal length for these sensor/lens combinations. One of the only blessings of such a small sensor....
Misc data, the phone is able to capture at 1/10000 of a second if conditions permit - ie. taking a picture of a light bulb. Might be able to go a bit faster; some images has the speed recorded as 1/INT_MAX. 1/6s seems to be the minimum shutter speed.
If autofocus was made a bit more "brave", ie. bigger focus steps, it could help, at the expense of focus precision. Could possibly be gotten away with as focus doesn't need to be hyper precise on these things anyways. Trade offs no matter how you go though - you either get slow, but accurate AF, faster but less accurate AF, or fast AF that can't focus (minimum FPS raised). A bandaid fix would be to have the flash LED turn on and be used as an AF-assist lamp for focusing in low light always instead of only when flash is enabled. Of course, wouldn't help when the object isn't in range, but still an improvement.
@ZigZagJoe
Unfortunately, that's not how ISO works. An ISO increase increases noise, it does not desaturate or deteriorate fine detail. Quality is also not saturation. A person who knows about and performs color correction does not saturate a photo as it will hinder quality in post. That isn't to say that is what quality is. If saturation is how you like your pictures, that's fine, but that lends to a personal definition (albeit common) of quality, not a technical definition of quality. I would imagine it is pretty hard to determine detail loss if noise is covering it up to begin with? It would have to be drastically different for that to be apparent. Maybe you are mistaking compression artifacts for noise? Quality is about bitrates, the higher the bitrate the less compression artifacts, which means the better the detail. In either case, the ISO is not making it worse. So it is either bitrate variation you are talking about, or the post-processing system of the camera. The sensor is tiny, but that doesn't mean much other than more ISO noise than a larger sensor. If it did, then a 5DMKII would look leaps and bounds better than a 7D, but it doesn't. It is a matter of hardware. I can name two phones from last year with near-identical sized sensors, but their quality is vastly different.
I am not going to go over the modes as they do have purposes, but they will take a long time to explain. If you have used any basic cameras of the last decade you should know what they do. Manufacturers rarely deviate from these modes other than by name. Besides, the best photographers use the manual mode.
Exposure value would not just affect shutter speeds but ISO settings as well (as evident through simple testing). It should also affect aperture, but cameras on phones have a fixed aperture. However, while shutter speeds are initially changed on this phone, they stay constant. ISO then varies depending on the lighting situation. I took 4 videos of 2 locations, all at 30fps, two at +2 EV, and two at -2 EV, and each set in a light and near-black (dark) area. The results were that the light +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of compression artifacts from a bitrate of 13+MB/s. The dark +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of noise. The light -2 changed to 24fps and showed much less compression artifacts at a bitrate of 17+MB/s. The dark -2 showed almost nothing at all, but the tiny emitting lights that were shown were smooth. These were all done with this mod and no focus issues were present.
I think the true issue with auto-focus primarily stems from IOS. This is the first 13MP to have it, so it's bound to have some kinks (hence the need for an update).
The more important issue is that people all want to complain about a camera phone. And when someone like @Jishnu Sur wants to help out, people insert the comments with false or half-truth information that others take as fact. Some could argue that there is no harm if just speculating, but smarter people know better. The bottom line is that the camera is great as it is. If you want a better AF, get a real camera. But those who get a real camera, and know how to use them, already know that manual focus is the way to go.
I hope this helps clear some things up, but any further comments should be left to PM or back on the thread where this actually started as I want this to be for the updated camera. Continuing this discussion is in part the fault of @KassaNovaKaine for bringing this up instead of just using a PM, and mine for wanting to correct it.
Been testing this update, and it is a vast improvement!
I had a chance so sift through the updated libs, etc., and have made a flashable zip with all the updated files.
This probably should have its own thread, but it doesn't make sense to create more clutter. @Heatshiver, if you don't mind, could you please update the title stating that this is the F320K11E Stock Camera + libs and remove the original download (as it was incomplete) to avoid any confusion. Actually, it would probably be a good idea to quote all of this as well so people don't have to read/search through the whole thread. I don't mind that you started it, as long as you field all the support questions
I have tested this on my VS98011A and it is a marked improvement over the original. All of my comments are in relation to that version of the software/camera.
What's new:
The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them.
Instructions:
1) Do a nandroid, or see which files are being updated and manually back them up.
2) See #1. If you mess something up you'll wish you had.
3) Flash away. I tested this with TWRP on a VS98011A and it works perfectly.
4) If you have another variant, let us know here whether or not it works.
F320K11E Camera Update
*I will also send the files along to Jishnu separately for inclusion/analysis in his mod.
So, loss of detail. For an example, have a look at this comparison. Less severe in larger sensors (IE. DSLRs) and more severe in smaller sensors, you know, what phones use. To what degree detail is lost depends on the severity of processing. Noise obscuring detail = detail loss. NR processing smoothing the image = more detail loss. Safe to say, higher ISO, more detail lost.
Saturation - essentially, color purity. I'm not referring to manipulation of saturation. A washed out image lacks saturation. Yes, it is moronic to equate saturation = quality. But, my personal preference doesn't enter into this at all. Is color information lost in an ISO 3200 image when compared an ISO 100 image? Yes. To what degree depends on the sensor and processing performed. Most dedicated cameras keep it fairly well in check, but phones tend to have serious issues with saturation at higher ISOs (also, Foveon sensors).
It does depend on the sensor pedigree, though - for instance, nikon's midrange APS-C sensors handle their noise a lot better than canon's 18mp-based offerings. So for phones to have different image quality is not unexpected.
Uh, JPG artifacting is way different than noise, and we were not even talking about compression in the first place?
Modes - don't care what the other ones are for, I was simply mentioning their presence. Don't ever use them on my real camera, but don't exactly have a choice in regards to phone. I was unable to get any sort of significant difference out of sports mode when I first tried it.... rest of the modes seem to be purely post processing related, for all I know LG made sports mode the same way. Later, checking EXIF info, I did see it changing shutter speed and ISO, favoring faster shutter speeds, which is the expected behavior, it's just not got much leeway for adjustment.
If ISO isn't already maxed (you know, like it is in low-light situations), yes, exposure control could be adjusting ISO too. But in the context of preview in low light, the exposure control directly affects the preview FPS, so it can only be adjusting shutter speed as ISO is already maxed. Would expect a similar effect on video but haven't tested it. Autofocus speed is directly linked to preview FPS, which is in turn limited by shutter speed (currently).
Hello everybody!
I have been interested in buying this phone, I have been messing around with it at the store and everything checks out for me except for two things.
I noticed that even in manual mode I don't get live exposure preview. By that I mean that the display doesn't show the exposure I will get before I take the photo. For example on my current phone (Blackberry Priv with the stock android photo app) If I set the ISO and aperture to something that would obviously result in an under exposed photo the live view will accurately display an under exposed preview and same goes for over exposed settings. My phone even does this in automatic mode. If I touch a dark part of the frame my live view will expose higher and when I touch a bright part of the frame it will expose lower. This is really important to me and the phones at the store don't do this and it baffles me to say the least, also considering that their advertisements include their 101 DXOmark photo rating. Is there a way around this? I never liked any of the fancy camera apps in the play store because of how buggy and clunky they are, they didn't have a google account on them so I couldn't try.
The other issue is the ISO range is limited from 100 - 1600 as on my phone I get 50 - 6400. I don't expect that big of a range but it seems tiny compared to everything else.
At the store the Mix 2s as well as the Mix 2 had serious banding issues at ISO 200 and above, I tried all the Hz settings and that didn't change anything. I'm assuming that this is a very limited issue due to location and I would probably never see it from day to day life.
I'm planning on installing as stock of android if available, would this fix any of the issues? Of course I would like to maintain the excellent camera quality if there is a fix.
Thank you for all your help!
Hi,
Live exposure preview is working here with auto mode and manual mode... I'm on xiaomi.eu rom (it's based on Chinese stable). I also can only set ISO from 100 - 1600. However, I don't know what banding is and what the different frequencies change there so I can't say something about that
That's without changing exposure compensation right?
This a Taiwanese 6GB Mix 2s, I don't know what rom it has but I know that it has the play store. I will have to check what rom it uses.
I found a post from somebody else talking about using it on his 8GB Chinese phone quote "Global fastboot image (9.5.4.0) from the Taiwan MIUI website" I don't know if its the same rom as the xiaomi.eu.
I have attached a photo of the phone with banding on a picture I took. Banding is when the framerate doesn't line up with the frequency of the lights. Its the first time that I have experienced this but I'm probably worried over nothing.
Thanks for helping me out with this.
jonnyczi said:
That's without changing exposure compensation right?
This a Taiwanese 6GB Mix 2s, I don't know what rom it has but I know that it has the play store. I will have to check what rom it uses.
I found a post from somebody else talking about using it on his 8GB Chinese phone quote "Global fastboot image (9.5.4.0) from the Taiwan MIUI website" I don't know if its the same rom as the xiaomi.eu.
I have attached a photo of the phone with banding on a picture I took. Banding is when the framerate doesn't line up with the frequency of the lights. Its the first time that I have experienced this but I'm probably worried over nothing.
Thanks for helping me out with this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Global rom and xiaomi.eu rom are different roms, xiaomi.eu is a custom rom based on chinese stable but optimized for the use in western countrys(or any country outside china) with play services and playstore and so on. Beside the name it's not related to xiaomi so it's not official. My banding settings are on 50Hz (didn't change anything, was like this before) and I was not able to reproduce an effect like on your photo. The only setting I found related to exposure is "auto exposure settings" and it's set to "center weighted" don't know if that is what you meant with "That's without changing exposure compensation right?"
There are lot's of camera tests on youtube, maybe one of them can answer your questions better than me
Thank you for the info. I didn't know that the global and xiaomi.eu Roms were different. I wonder why the xiaomi.eu Rom isn't based on the global rom?
Exposure compensation can be changed by tapping on the image to focus, a circle will appear with two little arrows on the right. Slide the arrows up and down to change exposure compensation.
I will verify the auto exposure settings. Maybe this will fix the issue I'm having.
The problem with exposure is that in the camera live preview, the shutter speed is always set to automatic. The shutter speed change triggers only while thr phone is taking a picture.
Regarding banding, never had trouble. It might be appearing due to a very bad setup of halogen lights in the store, I think that these people that work there get a lot of eye strain
You are right, I went to a different store and in manual mode the exposure preview shutter speed/ISO wasn't changing. I'm sure that other phones use a combination of shutter speed and ISO to generate the preview because the image remains pretty smooth even when setting a long exposure.
I checked again for the live preview in automatic mode, when touching bright spots the exposure would decrease and touching dark spots would increase exposure, so at least we have that.
You are right about the lights they are very harsh in the first store. I couldn't reproduce the banding in the second store.
I can confirm that the Taiwanese phones use Global stable 9.5.4.0 and the model is: M1803D5XA
The phones are out of stock everywhere so I need to wait
Using global stable here. Changing ISO has immediate affects on the subject for me. In the viewfinder, I can see the difference between ISO 100-1600
skw5115 said:
Using global stable here. Changing ISO has immediate affects on the subject for me. In the viewfinder, I can see the difference between ISO 100-1600
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which version of Global Stable? The phone's here are running 9.5.4.0 Global Stable.
jonnyczi said:
Which version of Global Stable? The phone's here are running 9.5.4.0 Global Stable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
9.5.18.0
Alright some of you have seen my contributions in the magisk thread by aer0zer0 but i seem to update it a lot and seem to spam the thread up, so i decided to make a seperate thread where i can post updates and edits.
//:
Q:Reason for using this over arnovas and cstarks gcams?
A:These settings are made especially for essentials IMX 258 and use more vibrant colors as seen in samples, plus the noise settings are manually tweaked by me and keep getting better as i tinker with them more, as well as the gcams provided by arnova and cstark use custom set blacklevel fix which is not an good idea, tolyan's uses dynamic black level which adjusts the tint values by ISO settings as said when checking the Fix Black level option.
://
Grab my compiled version with preset here- 5.3 https://mega.nz/#!qk4ggYqC!Pb3gY6DW0KNYd6huvbEvIARIGhdRrJckLZYBPnZ8q9I
6.1 Preset build based on MGC_6.1.021_V1d-Advances_test2.apkhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1QV88P65dzBAy7wJTlozei24owB8mzA5U/view?usp=sharing
Old method below
we are using tolyans builds
https://www.celsoazevedo.com/files/android/google-camera/dev-tolyan009/
1: Advanced Settings
//: Final JPG quality hdr+ = 100%
//: Resampling method = Raisr
//: Fix Black Level = on
//: Enable Motion = on
//: Max BlackLevel offset = 25 or 50
2: Noise Reduction -> tuning back cam
Rev 0.23 - October 9th
//: Tuning master switch = ON
• Apply custom sensor noise model = ON
• Custom sensor noise offset a = 3000
• Custom sensor noise offset b = 22500 (default)
• Custom sensor noise scale a = 2117875
• Custom sensor noise scale b = 113625
//: Apply custom denoise params = ON
• Custom luma denoise at high ISO values = 1.5
• Custom luma denoise at average ISO values = 2
• Custom luma denoise at low ISO values = 0.4
• Custom chroma denoise at high ISO values = 40
• Custom chroma denoise at average ISO values = 10
• Custom chroma denoise at low ISO values = 2.55
• Custom denoise revert factor at high ISO values = 0
• Custom denoise revert factor at average ISO values = 0.05
• Custom denoise revert factor at low ISO values = 0.05
3: Back to Advanced Settings -> Saturation
//: Highlight Saturation: 1.2
//: Shadow Saturation: 2.0
Samples: https://imgur.com/a/O9hYlBh
Noise settings differences: https://i.imgur.com/ICn5fmi.jpg
We need more people like you. Thanks!
I appreciate you, thanks .
praise be to the @TheIronLefty
aer0zer0 said:
praise be to the @TheIronLefty
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not til i make the apk recompiler work
Slow Motion does not appear to be working with this. Crashes app.
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Spey said:
Slow Motion does not appear to be working with this. Crashes app.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still need the magisk mod, but you can turn it off.
We should use HDR+ enhanced right?
aer0zer0 said:
Still need the magisk mod, but you can turn it off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thx 4 reply.
Will keep using SloMo on GoogleCamera-Pixel2Mod-Arnova8G2-V8.1.apk for time being. Was hoping to find 240fps (120fps only on this Arnova).
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
HaloTechnology said:
We should use HDR+ enhanced right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both work just fine.
Huh, this might make me finally install Magisk.
Just for your information, you might have missed that, another developer going by the name of ArtZ did something similar, just for a regular apk (https://www.celsoazevedo.com/files/android/google-camera/dev-artz/). He developed for the LG G6 which shares the IMX 258 with the PH-1 and very much focused on color reproduction. I've been using his latest apk since its release and always returned to it when testing other ones in between since the color reproduction is much better in HDR+ enhanced compared to other apks, his settings might be of interest to you as well in your development.
Edit: after testing tolyans build with your settings I'm definitely impressed by the speed and noise settings, but color reproduction is still significantly better with the black level settings introduced by ArtZ. The color shift can best be seen when taking a low light picture with HDR+ and HDR+ enhanced, the latter will often have a green tint. ArtZ talked a bit about his settings in this post: https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75432324&postcount=1568. Integrating a PH-1 specific color fix into a Gcam apk could very well be worth the work.
Skirr said:
Huh, this might make me finally install Magisk.
Just for your information, you might have missed that, another developer going by the name of ArtZ did something similar, just for a regular apk (https://www.celsoazevedo.com/files/android/google-camera/dev-artz/). He developed for the LG G6 which shares the IMX 258 with the PH-1 and very much focused on color reproduction. I've been using his latest apk since its release and always returned to it when testing other ones in between since the color reproduction is much better in HDR+ enhanced compared to other apks, his settings might be of interest to you as well in your development.
Edit: after testing tolyans build with your settings I'm definitely impressed by the speed and noise settings, but color reproduction is still significantly better with the black level settings introduced by ArtZ. The color shift can best be seen when taking a low light picture with HDR+ and HDR+ enhanced, the latter will often have a green tint. ArtZ talked a bit about his settings in this post: https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75432324&postcount=1568. Integrating a PH-1 specific color fix into a Gcam apk could very well be worth the work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My settings are based of Artz's, in my testing i never got green or magenta tint on my settings, however i did have those issues when u used to use ArtZ's last builds
Skirr said:
Huh, this might make me finally install Magisk.
Just for your information, you might have missed that, another developer going by the name of ArtZ did something similar, just for a regular apk (https://www.celsoazevedo.com/files/android/google-camera/dev-artz/). He developed for the LG G6 which shares the IMX 258 with the PH-1 and very much focused on color reproduction. I've been using his latest apk since its release and always returned to it when testing other ones in between since the color reproduction is much better in HDR+ enhanced compared to other apks, his settings might be of interest to you as well in your development.
Edit: after testing tolyans build with your settings I'm definitely impressed by the speed and noise settings, but color reproduction is still significantly better with the black level settings introduced by ArtZ. The color shift can best be seen when taking a low light picture with HDR+ and HDR+ enhanced, the latter will often have a green tint. ArtZ talked a bit about his settings in this post: https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75432324&postcount=1568. Integrating a PH-1 specific color fix into a Gcam apk could very well be worth the work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you don't care about slomo or hevc, you don't need magisk
TheIronLefty said:
My settings are based of Artz's, in my testing i never got green or magenta tint on my settings, however i did have those issues when u used to use ArtZ's last builds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The settings you describe though do only cover chroma and luminance noise handling, right? There are no IMX 258 specific black level offsett settings (aside from activating "Fix Black Level") applied like the ones ArtZ describes:
Release (default is 64.0 for all)
0x427F70A4 # 63.86f
0x427FB852 # 63.93f
0x427FB852 # 63.93f
0x428047AE # 64.14f
(Decimals are very important. There's visible differences using for instance 63.85 instead of 63.86!!!)
I haven't found that option in tolyans build, but I remember some apks would let you change these 4 values in 0.1 intervals. I tried the upper values in a few of those builds a while ago but they never gave the same result compared to the ArtZ apk, probably because ArtZ directly integrated them in the build including the second digit.
I'll try to whip up a quick comparison album this evening between the Essential cam, ArtZ v3.0 Taimen and the tolyan build with your settings to illustrate what I mean with respect to the green tint.
In the meantime, here is an older album I created this February with a few different ports, including the ArtZ v3.1 (which, oddly enough, is older than the v3.0). You can cleary see how most ports handle HDR+ (which i dubbed ZSL in the image descriptions back then) similarily but differentiate heavily when using HDR+ enhanced (HDR+ in the image description): https://photos.app.goo.gl/iGKAjwAD6PbUrgia2
aer0zer0 said:
If you don't care about slomo or hevc, you don't need magisk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're right of course, I initially misread and thought the settings described by TheIronLefty were part of a specific magisk gcam module, not "just" settings for tolyans build.
Skirr said:
The settings you describe though do only cover chroma and luminance noise handling, right? There are no IMX 258 specific black level offsett settings (aside from activating "Fix Black Level") applied like the ones ArtZ describes:
Release (default is 64.0 for all)
0x427F70A4 # 63.86f
0x427FB852 # 63.93f
0x427FB852 # 63.93f
0x428047AE # 64.14f
(Decimals are very important. There's visible differences using for instance 63.85 instead of 63.86!!!)
I haven't found that option in tolyans build, but I remember some apks would let you change these 4 values in 0.1 intervals. I tried the upper values in a few of those builds a while ago but they never gave the same result compared to the ArtZ apk, probably because ArtZ directly integrated them in the build including the second digit.
I'll try to whip up a quick comparison album this evening between the Essential cam, ArtZ v3.0 Taimen and the tolyan build with your settings to illustrate what I mean with respect to the green tint.
In the meantime, here is an older album I created this February with a few different ports, including the ArtZ v3.1 (which, oddly enough, is older than the v3.0). You can cleary see how most ports handle HDR+ (which i dubbed ZSL in the image descriptions back then) similarily but differentiate heavily when using HDR+ enhanced (HDR+ in the image description).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried using those settings on arthurs build, i even discussed about it in magisk thread, but i never got the same results too. Besides i cant really do anything about integrating it, since i dont know how to work with java.
@TheIronLefty, looks like colour noise reduction is a bit overdone in your sample. Very apparent on the depth of field scale on the old lens.
When I try to install tolyans build, it says "update existing application" and I am unable to install it... Any fixes?
Sent from my PH-1 using XDA Labs
NummerEinsNerd said:
When I try to install tolyans build, it says "update existing application" and I am unable to install it... Any fixes?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uninstall any other custom GCAM application and try again.
Genghis1227 said:
Uninstall any other custom GCAM application and try again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have already done that, still won't work :/
Sent from my PH-1 using XDA Labs
aer0zer0 said:
Still need the magisk mod, but you can turn it off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
which magisk mod do I need to activate slow mo on pie?