Related
I am trying to boost the signal strength of my Desire S. I know the antenna is in the battery cover. What is the correct specifications of an aerial for the Optus network in Australia? What I intend to do (if possible) is attach a wire to the 2 connectors when the battery cover is off and loop the wire behind the phone (will be hidden by the phones protective cover.
I have tried this and it sort of works (you can put the battery cover back on too).
I am assuming that as the aerial is designed for multiple signals/carriers then it may be less efficient than a specific one I can make myself.
Or do I sound stupid?
UPDATE:
I wish I'd done some temperature benchmarking beforehand, but instead sourced the community to help out. Check out the various results on XDA... there are also results from two TF700 owners (in Europe) who were gracious enough to help me out.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=28051518
First, it seems clear that my mod really didn't mitigate the heat issue enough... so don't bother.
Second, comparing the numbers between other A700's and the TF700... well, I'll let you draw your own conclusion on that one. :-(
---
Hi all,
As many of you have experienced, the A700 can get very hot under certain conditions. Mine got extremely hot to the touch after just an hour of gaming (Heavy Gunner, NFL Flick QB, and Cut the Rope), and crashed 2 or 3 times.
Well I decided to do something about it. Reading through the Service Guide (thank you paugustin!!!) & A700 teardown photos from another site, I came to some conclusions. First, from the looks of things, the back panel has some kind of metal plate lining, and 3 "pads" that closed the gap between the metal plate and several surfaces of the mainboard. My hope was that these pads were not simply foam pads but were actual thermal pads. I guessed that a bit of thermal paste might help the efficiency of those thermal pads... and if I got really ambitious, I could replace the thermal pads with larger ones (and paste those too).
Service Guide:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1716922
I followed the instructions in the Service Guide & opened up my A700 earlier tonight. I'm pleased to report that as long as you take your time, it's super easy to open up.
And lo and behold, my conclusions were accurate... the back plate is copper and the pads were thermal pads!
Back Plate:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/um556g6vtl7y99e/C360_2012-06-26-20-14-30.jpg
MainBoard:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jka8gooiyqn9r2d/C360_2012-06-26-20-14-46.jpg
Closer Look @ the Thermal Pads:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0j4e7wjfodwryk9/C360_2012-06-26-20-15-06.jpg
I took some CPU thermal paste I had lying around & dabbed some on:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvv99k3ghx73a00/C360_2012-06-26-20-17-24.jpg
Afterwards, I slapped everything back together, fired up NFL Flick QB and played for a half hour. I'm pleased to report that the A700 got warm but nowhere near as hot as it did in my prior gaming session. The "level of warmth" was what I'd consider mildly warm, comparable to my fiancee's iPad3, so definitely within reasonable tolerances.
I still intend to put the A700 through some more intense gaming tomorrow, but I wanted to write this post up and share it with everyone first. Hope folks find this useful and insightful!
Nice discovery, but yikes! Thermal grease is meant to go on in a translucently thin layer or it ends up having the opposite effect! If you put that much between a CPU and it's cooler, you'd kill the CPU! :S
superawesome!
Yet still i'd like to wait for more people to evaluate the hardwaremodding before i go in there myself.
Still, kudos to you. :good:
FloatingFatMan said:
Nice discovery, but yikes! Thermal grease is meant to go on in a translucently thin layer or it ends up having the opposite effect! If you put that much between a CPU and it's cooler, you'd kill the CPU! :S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Except in this case, the thermal grease isn't going up directly against the CPU... it's going up against a thermal pad & large metal plate that is covering the entire mainboard.
Additionally, unlike a heatsink & CPU which are fitted together tightly, the back panel of the A700 & thermal pads do not contact anywhere near as tight to the mainboard plate. I fitted the two halves together, then pulled them apart again, to see how much the paste really spread out. This way I could better gauge how tight the contact was & remove any excess that got squished out. However, not much paste really did, telling me that the compression between the two isn't that great. That is why I'm toying with the idea of replacing the thermal pads entirely.
Hey, good stuff. Keep us in the loop on this....
Thicker thermal pads might be in order, or a better paste job under the plate on the CPU/GPU...
Bigger pads to spread the heat out more since the back looks to be one copper heat sink..
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g8/c487/list/p1/Thermal-Thermal_Pads_Tape.html
Beknatok said:
Hi all,
As many of you have experienced, the A700 can get very hot under certain conditions. Mine got extremely hot to the touch after just an hour of gaming (Heavy Gunner, NFL Flick QB, and Cut the Rope), and crashed 2 or 3 times.
Well I decided to do something about it. Reading through the Service Guide (thank you paugustin!!!) & A700 teardown photos from another site, I came to some conclusions. First, from the looks of things, the back panel has some kind of metal plate lining, and 3 "pads" that closed the gap between the metal plate and several surfaces of the mainboard. My hope was that these pads were not simply foam pads but were actual thermal pads. I guessed that a bit of thermal paste might help the efficiency of those thermal pads... and if I got really ambitious, I could replace the thermal pads with larger ones (and paste those too).
Service Guide:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1716922
I followed the instructions in the Service Guide & opened up my A700 earlier tonight. I'm pleased to report that as long as you take your time, it's super easy to open up.
And lo and behold, my conclusions were accurate... the back plate is copper and the pads were thermal pads!
Back Plate:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/um556g6vtl7y99e/C360_2012-06-26-20-14-30.jpg
MainBoard:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jka8gooiyqn9r2d/C360_2012-06-26-20-14-46.jpg
Closer Look @ the Thermal Pads:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0j4e7wjfodwryk9/C360_2012-06-26-20-15-06.jpg
I took some CPU thermal paste I had lying around & dabbed some on:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvv99k3ghx73a00/C360_2012-06-26-20-17-24.jpg
Afterwards, I slapped everything back together, fired up NFL Flick QB and played for a half hour. I'm pleased to report that the A700 got warm but nowhere near as hot as it did in my prior gaming session. The "level of warmth" was what I'd consider mildly warm, comparable to my fiancee's iPad3, so definitely within reasonable tolerances.
I still intend to put the A700 through some more intense gaming tomorrow, but I wanted to write this post up and share it with everyone first. Hope folks find this useful and insightful!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fantastic for the XDA community, but the average buyer will be like the cheesey pop group Power Station and will "Feel the heat".
rushless said:
Fantastic for the XDA community, but the average buyer will be like the cheesey pop group Power Station and will "Feel the heat".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then be happy that you're amongst the enlightened!
CAUTION!!!!!
OK maybe that's a bit strong, but as an engineer I have to question the logic employed.
First of all, the heat generated by the CPU, battery, etc. must exit the device. ALL OF IT!
Temperature of the back plate is determined by two factors alone: thermal resistance (e.g. insulation, heat pipes, air flow, fins, etc.) and the amount of heat transfer. I'm serious!
It appears that you have done nothing to affect the thermal resistance between the back plate and the air (e.g. adding cooling fins or increasing air flow). Therefore if your back plate temperature has decreased (and the air temp stayed the same), then we would conclude that heat transfer between the back plate and the air has DECREASED.
If hea
If heat transfer from the plate to the air has decreased, then that means the heat transfer from the CPU etc. to the plate must have decreased as well!
My guess is that your thermal paste is producing a higher thermal resistance, as predicted by FFM! And it's deceptive because it's insulating the back plate from the CPU etc.
So where's the heat going? (I hear myself asking... myself.)
My guess is that it's dissipating through the tablet, getting distributed and absorbed and ultimately emitted more uniformly from the device. This would raise the internal temperature of the device, including the CPU! Hence the CAUTION!!!!!
Your idea could have some benefit, though, and here's how i see it playing out:
If you decrease the thermal resistance between the CPU and the back plate, then the CPU would be closer to the temperature of the back plate (i.e. lower). But the back plate temperature won't really change because you still have the same total heat coming through and the same thermal resistance with the air.
As for spreading the temperature across the back plate more, I'm not sure you can do it more effectively than the copper plate that's already there. Not without insulating the most direct heat transfer path!
yeoldeusrename said:
CAUTION!!!!!
OK maybe that's a bit strong, but as an engineer I have to question the logic employed.
First of all, the heat generated by the CPU, battery, etc. must exit the device. ALL OF IT!
Temperature of the back plate is determined by two factors alone: thermal resistance (e.g. insulation, heat pipes, air flow, fins, etc.) and the amount of heat transfer. I'm serious!
It appears that you have done nothing to affect the thermal resistance between the back plate and the air (e.g. adding cooling fins or increasing air flow). Therefore if your back plate temperature has decreased (and the air temp stayed the same), then we would conclude that heat transfer between the back plate and the air has DECREASED.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, I'm aware of this.
The exact problem I was attempting to mitigate, is the transfer of heat between the mainboard cover plate and the back panel copper plate. I was theorizing that the thermal pads being used were not fitted well, thus not functioning optimally as designed to begin with. As a result, not enough heat was being transfered to the back panel copper plate for proper dissipation.
So either heat is being transferred to the back copper plate more efficiently now and dissipating more effectively... or the opposite as you proposed.
However, if heat transfer has decreased, wouldn't heat buildup would still occur within the small area between the back panel & mainboard? While it wouldn't be absorbing the same amount of heat directly from the thermal pad, heat would still build up over time and that should still be noticable no matter what, right?
I'd also note that the BETTER solution would be to NOT combine thermal paste with the thermal pads, since as you point out, that can adversely affect thermal resistance.... but rather to replace the pads with better pads.
But I decided to be a guinea pig and try it out anyway.
Sorry I got distracted before posting my conclusion:
So my conclusion (prior to your latest comments) is that you can effectively lower the temperature of the CPU but not of the back plate. (unless you're insulating it from the CPU, which will spread the heat around and raise the temp of the internals!!!!).
I will consider your latest comments and repost!
The way I see it, the heat was not effectively transferred to the radiator. We have to remember that the case heat-up experienced by touch is not only the radiator, but the case itself heated by both the radiator and the air.
I'd assume that lack of crashes indicates smaller temperature of the CPU\GPU, as the heat is conducted more effectively by the paste to the radiator and dissipates evenly, instead of building up in one place and transferred to the case by air.
It's times like this, that highlights the one minor missing flaw of the A700... there's no bloody temperature sensors that we can poll!!!
*bashes head against desk*
So unfortunately, all findings are really subjective unless yeoldeusrename's conclusions are correct and mine are totally incorrect, and my A700 decides to fry itself.
Beknatok said:
It's times like this, that highlights the one minor missing flaw of the A700... there's no bloody temperature sensors that we can poll!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, i wouldn't be that sure. The A510 has them (at least separately for cpu and battery) and can be read by certain apps from the store. (E.g system tuner and battery monitor widget) so i would guess the A700 has them too.
Perhaps that helps
Sent from my A510 using xda app-developers app
mearoth said:
Well, i wouldn't be that sure. The A510 has them (at least separately for cpu and battery) and can be read by certain apps from the store. (E.g system tuner and battery monitor widget) so i would guess the A700 has them too.
Perhaps that helps
Sent from my A510 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The two apps I tried, didn't show anything for temperature, but I just grabbed system tuner & it does register cpu temp! Yay! Will explore the app further to figure out how to record history for accurate metrics. Thanks for the hint.
Sent from my A700 using Tapatalk 2
Beginning to wonder if the heat and touch issues are why the 700 is priced the exact same as the 510. Nothing else apparently makes sense.
Anyone who is tracking this thread & wouldn't mind helping gather some additional data, please check out this thread:
CPU Temp Benchmarking - Request for Help
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=28009068
Thanks!!!
I think I'm going to look into creating a heat shield to place against the rear cover.
2 to 3 inches across and 4 down on the right side should do it.
This is a great tablet otherwise and don't want to give up on it just yet.
Besides the Asus sound system is inferior.
For those of you who have a Tronsmart Promethius media box and are having lockup issues, there is a fix!
Nothing an old South Bridge low profile heat sink and some MX4 thermal compound can't fix!
Take a look at the attached photos for some shots!
A few more shots!
Here are a few more shots of the applied heat sink.
(Edit I had to change the spring loaded pins to shorter ones because I could not get the Prometheus to go back together due to the old pegs being too tall.
Good post
SovereignKnight said:
Here are a few more shots of the applied heat sink.
(Edit I had to change the spring loaded pins to shorter ones because I could not get the Prometheus to go back together due to the old pegs being too tall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great little mod, I did this to my box and it's improved the stability no end.
Thanks for posting.
All my old PC motherboards laying around just got harvested
Several others also reporting success at: http://www.armtvtech.com/armtvtechforum/viewtopic.php?f=133&t=1340
I also used a scavenged heatsink from my parts pile.
Apparently the mounting pattern for the holes is 60mm and the max height is 8mm.
As usual a heatsink for any of these android sticks/boxes is a great mod!
deadhp1 said:
Several others also reporting success at: http://www.armtvtech.com/armtvtechforum/viewtopic.php?f=133&t=1340
I also used a scavenged heatsink from my parts pile.
Apparently the mounting pattern for the holes is 60mm and the max height is 8mm.
As usual a heatsink for any of these android sticks/boxes is a great mod!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've taken my mod one step further! I've removed the small heat sink, cut a hole in the roof, used a much taller heat sink and added a fan and soldered it in.
Now I'm running at 1.3 GHz and stable as a rock! Antu scores 7500., and a Quadrent of 3300. I've attached the hardware photos.
SovereignKnight said:
I've taken my mod one step further! I've removed the small heat sink, cut a hole in the roof, used a much taller heat sink and added a fan and soldered it in.
Now I'm running at 1.3 GHz and stable as a rock! Antu scores 7500., and a Quadrent of 3300. I've attached the hardware photos.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It really looks like a spaceship now. Or maybe some sort of futuristic hovercraft.
Nice and clean looking!
deadhp1 said:
It really looks like a spaceship now. Or maybe some sort of futuristic hovercraft.
Nice and clean looking!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I tried to make it as clean as possible but cutting a hole in the top of tough plastic was a challenge with the tools I had to work with lol.
The reason why I changed the cooling to active is I thought about it. The heat sink will cover the processor but also the dram chips and the flash chip. The dram and flash chip will now share the heat of the CPU. I don't think dram chips and flash chips are designed to function at temps as hot as this CPU gets. Even if clocked at 1.2GHz all day long. I'd think this is bad in the long run without cooling down everything. This new mod gives me peace of mind. The CPU gets WAY to damn hot even with the extended heat sink passively. With a fan everything runs super cool. I think the Chinese designers of this product really did a half baked job on the design and really didn't think this trough. That seems typical now days.
I've only had my Relay a week and already it's been torn apart! But what's bad for warranties is good for you, because now I can make a hardware reference guide for this phone like I did for the Sidekick 4G.
As before, this is a work in progress and based on my own research. I'm not an expert on cell phone tech, so everything here is provided with no warranties. Please let me know if you notice any mistakes and I'll be happy to update this document. I'm particularly interested in better documentation for the various components, like in-house PDFs.
Samsung Galaxy S Relay 4G Specifications:
Released as T-Mobile exclusive on September 19th, 2012.
SGH-T699
FCC ID: A3LSGHT699
2G Network: GSM/GPRS/EDGE – 850, 900, 1800, 1900 MHz
3G Network: UMTS/HSPA+ – 850, 900, 1700, 1900, 2100 MHz
WiFi: 802.11A/B/G/N dual-band 2.4/5GHz
Bluetooth 4.0
Near Field Communication
CPU: 32-bit 1.5GHz dual-core Qualcomm Snapdragon S4 (ARM V7 Architecture)
GPU: Qualcomm Adreno 225
RAM: 1 Gigabyte DDR2
Flash: 8 Gigabytes, ~5GB available to user under stock ROM
MicroSD slot for expansion
Display: 4" Samsung SuperAMOLED screen @ 800x480 with Multi-Touch Capacitive Touchscreen. 16,777,216 colours
Keyboard: 5 row 52-key QWERTY keyboard with inverted-T arrow keys
Rear Camera: 5 Megapixel with LED flash
Front Camera: 1.3 Megapixel
Other Features:
Augmented GPS/GLONASS
Accelerometer/Gyroscope
Compass
Light sensor/Proximity sensor
Mobile High-Definition Link (HDMI)
Size: 4.96" x 2.56" x 0.53"
Weight: 5.6 Ounces
Power: 1800mAH Lithium-Polymer rechargeable battery model EB-L1K6ILA with NFC antenna integrated.
http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/c...y_S_Relay_4G_English_User_Manual_UVLG8_F4.pdf - User manual
http://www.jax184.com/projects/Relay 4G/Draft Users Manual.pdf - Early draft of user manual, submitted during FCC approval.
Hardware Details:
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"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
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0. Qualcomm MSM8260A Integrated Snapdragon S4 CPU, Adreno graphics core, UMTS modem, WiFi/Bluetooth backend, GPS/GLONASS receiver, DSP and USB controller
Marked:
Unknown
(Located under RAM IC as package-on-package)
1. Qualcomm WCD9310 "Tabla" Audio codec
Marked:
WCD9310
NCM218R1
A228002
13
2. Silicon Image SiI9244 MHL Transmitter
Marked:
SIMG
9244BO
NCS371A
10L2230
3. Samsung 8Gb (1GB) Low Power DDR2 DRAM
Marked:
Samsung 210
K3PE7E700D-XGC2
GKB2709U
4. Samsung 8GB NAND Flash
Marked:
Samsung 228
KLM8G2FE3B-B001
HHGX259X
5. Qualcomm HSPA+/CDMA2K/TDSCDMA/EDGE/GPS Transciever
Marked:
WTR1605
OVV
PHX403R1
AA22501
6. Qualcomm Dual-band Wi-Fi A/B/G/N, Bluetooth and FM Radios
Marked:
WCN3660
PGW541R1
A222002
7. Unknown
Marked:
SWt
GAD92
8. Anadigics Multimode Multiband Power Amplifier Module
Marked:
ALT6181
33945AC
1231PH
9. Anadigics AWT6624 UMTS1700 Power Amplifier
Marked:
6624R
4233AD
1230 PH
10. Anadigics AWT6622 UMTS1900 Power Amplifier
Marked:
6622R
4110AA
1228 PH
11. Invensense 6050 six-axis gyroscope/accelerometer
Marked:
Invensense
MPU-6050M
D2G554-K1
EI 1226 D
12. Qualcomm Power Management IC
PM8921
AD35130
f3228004
13. Analog Devices Mobile I/O Expander and QWERTY Keypad Controller
Marked:
ADP
5587
#215
14. Texas Instruments BQ24157 Lithium-Ion Battery Charger
Marked:
TI27A3JXI
BQ24157B
15. NXP PN544 Near Field Communication Controller
Marked:
44501
10 05
NXD2314
16. Atmel MaXTouch mXT224E
Marked:
MXT224E
MAH-IR0
2W1315B
http://www.jax184.com/projects/Relay 4G/Internal Photos.pdf - Photos of a prototype Relay submitted to the FCC for approval. Notice that the PCB, RF plate, keyboard frame and even the back cover have all been revised.
http://www.jax184.com/projects/Relay 4G/Test Results.pdf - Results of FCC testing of the NFC radio.
Take Apart:
Start with the phone turned off.
Flip the phone onto its back and remove the battery, SIM card and MicroSD card.
Remove the 8 long screws around the edge of the phone and the two short screws in the battery bay using a fine-tipped Phillips screwdriver. Be sure not to mix these screws up when reassembling!
If available, use a thin nylon guitar pick for this next step. Metal tools will mar the plastic.
Unlike most Galaxy S devices, the seam between the inner back and the front case of the Relay 4G is not visible from the back of the device. Instead it is on the front, around the perimeter of the keyboard. Insert a thin prying tool here and gently unsnap the plastic halves.
Lift the back off.
Gently disconnect the headphone jack cable. This connector is very fragile, and should not be pried on with metal tools. Instead it should be gripped with fingernails and slowly pulled upward.
Disconnect the screen cable along the left side of the board. Like the headphone jack, this connector is fragile and must not by forced apart. Then remove the 5 short screws which hold the PCB to the front frame.
Gently lift the PCB upwards. There are clips around the edge which will need to be gently pressed to free the board.
If needed, the keyboard can now be removed. To separate the keyboard frame from the screen, remove the final screw and gently pull the plastic straight up. Be sure not to put undue stress on the screen cable. It is held to the keyboard frame in the gold plate, which is attached using double-sided tape.
I did not dismantle the screen section of my phone beyond this point, but further disassembly appears to be straight forward.
To continue dismantling the PCB, gently disconnect the camera and MicroSD card socket cables. As above, these connectors are delicate and must not be forced apart.
Remove the two screws on the keypad side of the PCB to unfasten the RF plate.
Lift the RF plate off of the PCB.
The PCB is now bare.
Assemble in reverse order.
The PDFs linked to in the above document are owned by their respective companies. All else is covered by the following:
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.
Great thread.
Just wanted to share my picture of the broken 4G that I have.
So part of the flex cable is broken and the following things don't work anymore:
- Frontcamera
- lightsensor
- LED indicator
- normal phone speaker.
I ordered a new display that comes with a cable from here, to solve the problem, because I could't find the flex cable itself and T-Mobile didn't want to invoke a warranty case(I am in germany, that's the main reason)
Ciao fsg
GPS antenna
I'm not happy with my phone's GPS, the reception quality is really poor. I've found several threads discussing the problems with Samsung's phones' GPS antenna contacts, e.g. this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=39570338
So I've disassembled my Relay and found those contacts after experimenting without any antenna attached. The picture is below.
I've gently bent the PCB contacts toward the rear panel to make sure they will touch the antenna pads with pressure. The GPS works much better now. In case if it'll not last long, there is a possibility to solder them with tiny copper wires.
Great thread.
But does anyone have experience or insight they can share as to how to dismantle/reassemble the front fascia/housing surrounding the screen.
Mine is mashed up and needs replacing, my replacement housing arrives tomorrow.
Thanks in advance
Sent from my SGH-T699 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Just received my Relay yesterday, planning to do some surgery on it to add Palm Touchstone charging to it.
I can't really tell from the photos if it's a separate board, but I found this on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Charging-US...Galaxy-S-Relay-4G-T-mobile-T699-/151050168018
I don't want to solder on the original parts so if that's the right part I'll grab one and solder on that instead?
Thanks.
ToniCipriani said:
Just received my Relay yesterday, planning to do some surgery on it to add Palm Touchstone charging to it.
I can't really tell from the photos if it's a separate board, but I found this on eBay:
<link>
I don't want to solder on the original parts so if that's the right part I'll grab one and solder on that instead?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think it's related to Palm Touchstone in anyway, from the link you posted:
...OEM USB charging For Samsung Galaxy S Relay 4G T-mobile SGH-T699
...
...3. Replace your broken, damaged, cracked, unusable
So, by my understanding it's just a replacement board for the regular USB charging.
The wireless charging is not possible without a special "antenna" - a coil regularly attached to the back cover, e.g. see:
www ebay com/itm/Samsung-Galaxy-S4-Wireless-Charging-Back-Cover-Touchstone-Dock-White-/161017497675
(please replace spaces with dots, I can't post links at the moment)
aragats said:
I don't think it's related to Palm Touchstone in anyway, from the link you posted:
...OEM USB charging For Samsung Galaxy S Relay 4G T-mobile SGH-T699
...
...3. Replace your broken, damaged, cracked, unusable
So, by my understanding it's just a replacement board for the regular USB charging.
The wireless charging is not possible without a special "antenna" - a coil regularly attached to the back cover, e.g. see:
www ebay com/itm/Samsung-Galaxy-S4-Wireless-Charging-Back-Cover-Touchstone-Dock-White-/161017497675
(please replace spaces with dots, I can't post links at the moment)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No no, that's not what I'm getting it for. I just want to make sure that is indeed the USB board for our phones, since the pictures seem to indicate the port is actually on the main PCB. If it is a separate board, I rather solder on a separate piece rather than the one that's on the phone.
I'm scavenging the coil from my old Pre, then tapping the volt line into USB. That's how it was done on the Nexus S and EVO 4G.
For future reference, that auction is NOT for the Relay. It's for some random phone. The Relay's USB port is soldered straight to the mainboard. Anyone with a broken USB port should NOT order that one from eBay.
GPS antenna
aragats said:
I'm not happy with my phone's GPS, the reception quality is really poor.
...
So I've disassembled my Relay and found those contacts after experimenting without any antenna attached.
...
I've gently bent the PCB contacts toward the rear panel to make sure they will touch the antenna pads with pressure. The GPS works much better now. In case if it'll not last long, there is a possibility to solder them with tiny copper wires.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Replying my own post just to confirm: after extensively using the phone's GPS the last 4 days in wildernesses (without any data channel available) I can confirm, that there is a HUGE difference between "before" and "after". Now GPS locks satellites in 2-3 seconds, I had no problems in deep forests and narrow canyons.
Jax184 said:
I've only had my Relay a week and already it's been torn apart! But what's bad for warranties is good for you, because now I can make a hardware reference guide for this phone like I did for the Sidekick 4G.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the great guide!
I experienced that after some drops the screen-unit and the keyboard-unit of the device get more and more loose. One unpleasant effect is, that if the slider is closed and I tap the screen, the screen unit yields a bit due to a too big gap between screen unit and keyboard unit. It rattles, when I write s.th. on the virtual keyboard.
I did not understand from the guide, which screws I have to tighten, to solve this issue. I'd be very grateful for any ideas.
Thanks!
fsg4u said:
Great thread.
Just wanted to share my picture of the broken 4G that I have.
So part of the flex cable is broken and the following things don't work anymore:
- Frontcamera
- lightsensor
- LED indicator
- normal phone speaker.
I ordered a new display that comes with a cable from here, to solve the problem, because I could't find the flex cable itself and T-Mobile didn't want to invoke a warranty case(I am in germany, that's the main reason)
Ciao fsg
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Click to collapse
Please, do you remember having relay dissasembled? Is it possible to change the display flex cable from other device (e.g. with cracked display)?
Thank you very much for you answer, I'm having probably the same problem with the relay (too much keyboard opening I suppose...)
sorgo said:
Please, do you remember having relay dissasembled? Is it possible to change the display flex cable from other device (e.g. with cracked display)?
Thank you very much for you answer, I'm having probably the same problem with the relay (too much keyboard opening I suppose...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Relay's cable is custom to the Relay, as far as I know.
Jax184 said:
The Relay's cable is custom to the Relay, as far as I know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I meant other relay s 4g device with cracked display. is the cable fixed to the screen in any way? or can I disconnect it with no problem?
Thanks
The way I've seen these sold in the past is the LCD and digitizer is sold as one unit and replaced as such, here
http://www.sinomobileparts.com/for-...ay-touch-digitizer-screen-assembly_p4624.html
So if you want to swap this out of another relay it should work fine, the main flex cable is separate than the cable coming from the screen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
demkantor said:
The way I've seen these sold in the past is the LCD and digitizer is sold as one unit and replaced as such, here
http://www.sinomobileparts.com/for-...ay-touch-digitizer-screen-assembly_p4624.html
So if you want to swap this out of another relay it should work fine, the main flex cable is separate than the cable coming from the screen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your answer. So I could eventually replace the main flex cable from a unit with broken screen? Do I get it right?
But I will take a risk anyway, as I only suppose it's the main flex cable problem.
Is there a possibility that by opening/closing the keybard other parts are bended or stressed? Or would you guess it's main flex cable problem for sure?
Thanks
Guess is the main flex, and yes you can swap parts from another relay but maybe do a little digging first around the net to see if anyone sells only what you need as it may be cheaper
Best of luck!
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
The info is incorrect: no 900 Mhz for 3g in my country !
Hi!
Could somebody help me to find Main Flex Cable for Relay with worldwide shipping? I would be very grateful.
linoskoczek said:
Hi!
Could somebody help me to find Main Flex Cable for Relay with worldwide shipping? I would be very grateful.
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Click to collapse
Hi I was desperate a month ago, as my relay display gone blank for good after going blank in some specific position, due to the main flex cable. That's the Achilles heel of this phone. I was considering buying a device with broken screen and replacing it, but ended up waiting for a brand new one (unused). That decision came because now I'll have one device full of spare parts for any case.
sorgo said:
Hi I was desperate a month ago, as my relay display gone blank for good after going blank in some specific position, due to the main flex cable. That's the Achilles heel of this phone. I was considering buying a device with broken screen and replacing it, but ended up waiting for a brand new one (unused). That decision came because now I'll have one device full of spare parts for any case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't you consider to buy main flex cable itself?
The factory heatsing had thermal paste.
I got a new one from seller dince i had overheat problems at summer and i used thermal paste as well.
But the px6 is not flat. It has holes and such.
So i am wondering.
Maybe a thermal pad would be better than thermal paste? If it is what thickness?
Paste has always been better with uneven surfaces.
I can understand it exactly the opposite way. Even surfaces go for paste, non even with pad.
GnFgr said:
I can understand it exactly the opposite way. Even surfaces go for paste, non even with pad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may be thinking of EPOXY thermal compound, which in my opinion is garbage.
On the other hand any silicone based grease is far better at filling gaps than pads are. Most factories tend to use pads though because it's cleaner and there is less maintenance to perform on the factory assembly machines.
Good read here:
Thermal Pads vs Thermal Paste: The Best Choice for Mounting Your Heatsinks
I used to work as a construction assistant, where my primary responsibility was to level properties prior to the heavy concrete trucks laying down a level foundation. It was a tedious and taxing job, but something that is quite crucial for a building in order for it to withstand years of use and...
resources.altium.com
I never said about epoxy based. Never.
The px6 is not only uneven but has a metal shield on top. The metal shield acts as an interference shield ( like a faraday cage maybe?) And has holes. So the surface in not only not even it is full of holes.
I am not asking about even and not, and you stand correct, in surfaces that are either even or almost paste in my mind is the way to go.
But when the gap is bigger that x what is better?
So today i cleaned the paste with isopropyl alcohol and used a good pad from gelid i think. It is rated as 15W/mK and is 0.5mm thickness.
With external temp of 5 degrees Celsius the cpu was at 78 to 80 degrees after an hour. That is with thermal paste.
With the thermal pad the temperature after an hour is 65 degrees.
The usage is exactly the same at the one hour usage.
Maybe the metallic shield has no contact with the cpu and the pad manages through the holes to have at least some contact and achieve better heat transfer?
Well... some kind of cooling is better than none, that is for sure, but heat sinks are supposed to make full and direct contact with the device and if it can't then I suggest you have mechanical issues to correct rather than thermodynamic ones.
Damn.
I am not asking what is better as a general concept. I am asking what is better for a specific use that there is a shield above the cpu and there is no direct contact.
Anyway mate forget it.
GnFgr said:
Damn.
I am not asking what is better as a general concept. I am asking what is better for a specific use that there is a shield above the cpu and there is no direct contact.
Anyway mate forget it.
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Click to collapse
I doubt you can find many to answer a question on mounting a heat sink in such an improper fashion. Not withstanding, you seem to be convinced that the pad is the right way to go, so I'm not sure why you are asking the question in the first place.
I asked because i wanted to learn what is better. Haven't test both when i asked and thought asking in a forum might find someone that had data on it.
Sorry if i overwhelmed you.
Anyway just forget this thread to the void.
Keep on