Related
So I was investigating loadable kernel modules on the Droid 2 this weekend. One of the modules I tried loading was the smartass governor module and to my surprise it worked. From what I can tell it appears to be working with no problems.
The module itself is from a Milestone Cyanogen ROM. Given how close the Milestone is to the Droid 1 and how close the Droid 1 is to the Droid 2 it seemed like a safe try to see if it would load.
Requirements:
You must be rooted. This really should go without saying but I'm trying to cover all the bases here.
You must have busybox installed.
You must be able to boot into clockwork recovery.
I've tried this on Fission ROM but since we can't change the kernel on the Droid 2 this will probably work on any other Droid 2 ROM. D2G users, YMMV.
NOTICE: By installing this you assume any and all risk for what might happen to your phone. I am not responsible if this mod causes your phone to stop working, catch fire, steal your significant other, and/or hijack a plane. Basically I haven't had any issues but that is not a guarantee that you won't have any issues.
Attached is the update.zip. Boot into clockwork recovery and choose this zip to install. Once you reboot you'll be using the smartass governor.
So what has this done for your battery life?
Anecdotally I believe my battery life has improved. With the ondemand governor and data and wifi off I've seen my battery drop 10% in a night. With the smartass governor under the same conditions my battery appears to be the same. Now given that Motorola phones report the battery in just 10% increments my totally non-scientific analysis might end up being nothing.
Really you'd have to try it yourself and determine if things are better. From what I've read online the smartass governor is better at conserving battery than ondemand but it really depends on how you use your phone.
Download circle battery widget from the market. Its free and somehow it reports 1% increments. I have been using it for a while now and it seems to be spot on.
Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk
It just guesses
Well, there is a way to get an accurate battery reading. Reading /sys/devices/platform/cpcap_battery/power_supply/battery/charge_counter will give you the battery level in 1% increments. However, the system reads from /sys/devices/platform/cpcap_battery/power_supply/battery/capacity which provides the bounded 10% increments. Some widgets, Minimalistic Text for example, will read from charge_counter on Moto devices.
Ideally a kernel module could be written that changes what is written out to capacity so the entire system could take advantage of 1% battery increments. If I had the time I would take a crack at it, but it's been awhile since I've done any C coding.
Looks interesting. I'll wait until a little more feedback is given before I try it. How is the performance after the install?
I'm guessing you have to sbf to go back?
tbaker077 said:
How is the performance after the install?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No different than using the ondemand governor. Smartass takes a clever approach to CPU scaling: instead of polling CPU usage like ondemand it detects when the phone comes out of sleep and sets a timer to go off in two ticks. Once that timer goes off it looks at CPU usage and scales if needed. What does all this mean? Well, if you turn on your phone to quickly check the time and then turn it back off the smartass governor will never ramp up the clockspeed. So far after a few days of light usage I've been quite pleased.
rtfield said:
I'm guessing you have to sbf to go back?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope. If you want to revert just chmod 644 /etc/startup/smartass.sh and reboot.
Sweet
Thanks
I wonder if they could modify this to work with the new gingerbread kernel.
I know when I had an HTC Eris, Conap used a smartass gov on his kernel and it was awesome.
So I took a shot and flashed the smartass governor a second ago on my GB d2, and seems to be working just fine. I'll report later with battery stats and anything else i notice.
Spitemare said:
Well, there is a way to get an accurate battery reading. Reading /sys/devices/platform/cpcap_battery/power_supply/battery/charge_counter will give you the battery level in 1% increments. However, the system reads from /sys/devices/platform/cpcap_battery/power_supply/battery/capacity which provides the bounded 10% increments. Some widgets, Minimalistic Text for example, will read from charge_counter on Moto devices.
Ideally a kernel module could be written that changes what is written out to capacity so the entire system could take advantage of 1% battery increments. If I had the time I would take a crack at it, but it's been awhile since I've done any C coding.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I took a look at this and found some stuff that might be encouraging.
Here is the source for the battery driver. Line 397 reads as such:
Code:
val->intval = sply->batt_state.capacity;
If line 397 is changed to this
Code:
val->intval = sply->batt_state.batt_capacity_one;
then battery level should be reported in 1% increments. I've posted the updated driver code here.
The problem is the gorram encrypted bootloader. It's not easily possible to swap a built-in hardware driver with a compiled module. If someone with more Linux kernel experience than I wants to take a crack at it then by all means...
Do we really need busybox to uses this?
tbaker077 said:
Do we really need busybox to uses this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Busybox's insmod is a little more robust then the insmod that's on the Droid 2. You can try editing the file /etc/startup/smartass.sh to remove the references to busybox and see if it works; I just stuck with busybox since that was what worked for me when building this thing. I'd try it myself but I can't at the moment.
I'm running an experiment now to see how long this governor will take me. I charged my phone to 100% last night (really 100% and not just to when the charging light went off) and turned it off. I turned it on this morning and will let the phone run until 5% battery is left. At that time I'll take a screenshot showing how long the system has been up. A few guidelines:
ROM is Fission 2.6.1 which of course means Froyo. I've been thinking about switching to the leaked Gingerbread ROM but I've decided to wait a little longer
Data must remain on. I usually turn data off when I'm not using it but to get results closer to worst case I'll keep data on. The only time it will go off is when I turn on Wi-Fi at home.
No turning off the phone at any time nor plugging it in. I guess I'm going to be using Dropbox a lot during this to transfer files but I don't want to reset the time since plugged in at all.
No overclocking, underclocking, or undervolting. Clockspeed and voltage are stock.
Usage will be light to moderate. I tend to use my phones for calls, chats, and web browsing. I'll throw in some YouTube videos and maybe download Angry Birds.
No apps that try to maximize battery life. That means no SetCPU, Tasker, Superpower, etc. This is supposed to be about how well the smartass governor does for battery life.
Again, once I reach 5% I'll try to take a screenshot of how long the phone went without being recharged.
Spitemare said:
I took a look at this and found some stuff that might be encouraging.
The problem is the gorram encrypted bootloader. It's not easily possible to swap a built-in hardware driver with a compiled module. If someone with more Linux kernel experience than I wants to take a crack at it then by all means...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this difficult to swap in simply because of the nature of what we'd be switching out, or does the eFuse chip and whatever other protection play a role here? I would try compiling your modified code and putting it on my device, except I'm afraid there will be some protective measure or something like that would brick my phone if I try. That and the fact that I have no idea what libraries and stuff I would compile this against.
So unfortunately my phone rebooted halfway into the experiment so there is no screenshot for you all. I will say my phone made it just under 36 hours (6:30 Friday to 18:15 Saturday) on this governor. With some moderate internet browsing and way too many YouTube videos I'm quite happy with the outcome using this governor.
ZaneKaminski said:
Is this difficult to swap in simply because of the nature of what we'd be switching out, or does the eFuse chip and whatever other protection play a role here? I would try compiling your modified code and putting it on my device, except I'm afraid there will be some protective measure or something like that would brick my phone if I try. That and the fact that I have no idea what libraries and stuff I would compile this against.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've already compiled the modified module and tried to load it. The phone just prevents it from loading since the hardware interrupts are already bound to the compiled in driver.
eFuse doesn't prevent new kernel modules from being loaded. Since a kernel module can alter almost anything not being able to change the kernel isn't too much of a problem. What a kernel module can't really do, however, is change device drivers. There's not a really clean way to unload a device driver module since it binds to hardware interrupts and you can't really unbind that once the phone is up and running. If you want to replace a device driver with an alternate module you have to load the module before the original module is loaded sometime during the boot process. With compiled in device drivers though that's not really possible.
Basically we're in a situation where we need to load an alternate version of the device driver in module form before the compiled in device driver binds to the hardware interrupts. That would take some sort of ramdisk containing the altered driver module and we can't do that with eFuse.
The other option would be to write a module that hijacks calls to the particular function in the device driver and replaces that call with an alternative. That's got loads of problems though and is potentially dangerous. It would take someone with a lot more kernel experience than I have to write such a thing.
I installed this and didn't see any improvement in battery life until I ran
Code:
cat /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu0/cpufreq/scaling_governor
It said it was still ondemand. I checked scaling_available_governors and smartass was not in there, so I went ahead and installed the zip again... still doesn't work.
I went ahead and took a look at /etc/startup/smartass.sh. The permissions were right, so I ran /etc/startup/smartass.sh. I then checked /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu0/cpufreq/scaling_governor and it was set to smartass.
Can anyone shed some light on why this script is not running on boot? I'm running the leaked Motorola Gingerbread ROM if that makes a difference.
Spitemare said:
The other option would be to write a module that hijacks calls to the particular function in the device driver and replaces that call with an alternative. That's got loads of problems though and is potentially dangerous. It would take someone with a lot more kernel experience than I have to write such a thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see. I'm guessing the way to hijack said calls would be through directly modifying memory, right? That definitely is not something that sounds easy to do.
I tried running smartass.sh through an init.d script... still nothing. I actually had to make the /etc/init.d/ directory, so I figured that init.d scripts aren't supported on the Motorola Gingerbread rom... strange. I'll look for somewhere else where I can run stuff on startup.
Look for /etc/install_recovery.sh. That file is run by /init.rc if it exists. It's how the overclock stuff gets loaded on Fission. What the update.zip does is back up that file if it exists and then append /etc/startup/smartass.sh to the end. Just add the following to the end of /etc/install_recovery.sh if the update.zip doesn't add it:
Code:
/etc/startup/smartass.sh
UPDATE [11th September 2011]
Modified the SetCPU profiles:
Removed AC-charging Overclock (subject to temperature warnings mentioned in replies)Reduced some MAX values (has added 5 hours of real-world battery use and makes no noticable difference in performance)Added an optional < 101% profile to default the maximum clock speed to 729MHz (does not reduce performance, adds 2 hours effective runtime)Specified the Priority values (which I had forgotten to mention originally)
Introduction - The Desire S Battery Problem
As a fellow Desire S owner, you no doubt agree that it is a lovely phone: sleek, thin, relatively light, feature-filled... almost everything anyone could ever want from a phone!
However...
As a fellow Desire S owner, you no doubt agree that the battery life (on the Stock Sense ROM, regardless of how strict your PWM settings) is rather pathetic.
I have two HTC Desire S phones (one for myself, one for my wife), and both of them have almost exactly the same runtime (give or take a few minutes) when run in identical test conditions... no more than 18 hours (almost all of which with the display turned off) between charges, and less than 8 hours average with light-to-moderate screen-time when in use.
Bottom line: it's rather pathetic, and unacceptable.
Thankfully, we have options now... and this guide provides you with the option I have chosen for my Desire S phones.
Introduction - The Sacrifice
HTC Sense is (to many) considered a very "pretty" GUI, with nice animated transitions, a rounded feel etc, however it comes at a price: it's a battery hog!
I have played with many Sense 2 and Sense 3 ROMs on the Desire S, all of which share the common result of dimished battery runtime...
Bottom line: The simplest way to get more battery life is to sacrifice Sense entirely!
Just to point out: HTC Sense is the only sacrifice this guide makes in the persuit of optimal battery life! Unlike other guides, this one doesn't compromise any other features, or ANY performance (in fact, I've found performance with the setup described here to be even better than the stock ROM... noticably so!)
DISCLAIMER
I cannot (and will not) be held responsible for any losses or damages resulting from your use of this guide or the materials it contains. If you brick your phone, you've done something wrong and the fault is your own.
You should follow this guide with a fully charged battery, and if possible perform all steps involving a PC from a Laptop, with your phone connected via USB to minimize the risks associated with sudden power loss on your mains supply.
Stage 1: S-OFF
Aside from a lucky few whose Desire S came with S-OFF as a factory default, most of us have S-ON handsets.
With S-ON, you cannot flash a custom ROM onto your Desire S... but fear not, as there is now a FREE (and insanely simple) way to unlock our handsets, giving us the precious S-OFF we require.
You will require the Android SDK to be installed on your system, as well as the USB drivers for the HTC Desire S (these are installed as part of HTC Sync, though you should close HTC Sync from the system tray before proceeding as the S-OFF process will refuse to run with HTC Sync running at the same time)
Head on over to http://revolutionary.io/ to download their tool. This guide presumes you are using Windows, though it should be easy enough - if you're a Linux user - to adapt this information for your Linux platform.
Once you press the link to download Revolutionary, you will notice that a form appears asking for certain information. You'll see a screenshot of this below, but before we get to that there's something you must do...
Open a Command Prompt window from the Platform-Tools directory of the Android SDK.
From that Command Prompt window, type adb devices. Presuming you have the HTC Desire S drivers installed correctly, and your handset connected to your PC via USB, you should something like this:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
LEAVE THIS COMMAND PROMPT WINDOW OPEN, WE'LL NEED IT AGAIN SHORTLY
The third line of text begins with your handset's serial number.... you will need to enter this into the form on the Revolutionary website in order to generate your Beta key:
Once the Revolutionary zip file has downloaded, extract its contents into a folder on your PC (doesn't matter where, so long as you have access to that location).
Run revolutionary.exe following the instructions provided (it's a very quick and simple process... the automated portion of which shouldn't take more than 2 or 3 minutes to complete)
When it prompts you to install the Recovery mod, do it! You will need it for the next stage of this guide!
Your HTC Desire S now has S-OFF, is equipped with a version of ClockWork Recovery, and is ready to recieve the custom ROM! (All is good with the world).
Stage 2: The Custom ROM
IMPORTANT - THIS WILL FACTORY RESET YOUR PHONE (UNAVOIDABLE) SO DON'T FORGET TO BACK UP WHATEVER YOU NEED BEFORE YOU PROCEED WITH THIS GUIDE! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!
NOTE You will either need a spare MicroSD card, or to back up your existing MicroSD card and make it accessible to have files written to it from your PC (I use a card reader, but you can always use the USB Mass Storage feature of the phone itself to access the SD card in your phone from your PC)
The custom ROM of choice is NeoLojik's CyanogenMod 7, lovingly and paintakingly prepared especially for our HTC Desire S handsets, with quite probably the most prompt and spectactular support from NeoLojik himself.
I have chosen NeoLojik's CM7 ROM because it has proven (after exhastively testing other ROMs for the Desire S) to provide me with the very best battery performance, as well as all of the settings you will tweak as part of this guide.
Download (from the ROM's thread linked above):
The latest version of his ROM
The recommended Tiamat Kernel
The recommended version of the Google Apps package
To save time later, download The Android Market 3.1.3 APK
(You can download the APK from your phone directly after you've completed this portion of the guide, if you prefer)
Place the three ZIP files, as well as the Android Market APK, on the root folder of your MicroSD card (by "root" I mean the initial path of the SD card, which is whatever drive letter it mounts as on your Windows PC - e.g. "H:\")
Now, with your phone still connected to your PC via USB (and the SD card put back into your phone, if required), return to the Command Prompt window we used earlier and type adb reboot recovery
Now direct your attention to your phone
Once the Recovery Menu has loaded (should take about 30 seconds) we will follow some simple instructions below... but first, a few points on how to use Recovery:
Use the Volume Up and Down buttons on your handset to highlight one of the displayed options
Use the Power button to trigger the highlighted option.
wipe data/factory reset
wipe cache partition
apply update from sdcard
choose zip from sdcard
update-cm7.1.0-RC1-DesireS-Nexx-signed.zip (or whatever the ROM's filename is at your time of downloading... it will change as the ROM evolves)
apply update from sdcard
choose zip from sdcard
Tiamat_Saga-v1.1.2.zip (or whatever the filename is for the recommended Tiamat kernel at your time of downloading)
apply update from sdcard
choose zip from sdcard
gapps-gb-20110613.zip (again, filename might be slightly different for you)
Remembering with each selection to navigate to the "YES" option in the confirmation menu (this exists to prevent you from accidentally flashing the wrong file onto your phone)
Now, from your PC (or from the Recovery menu... doesn't matter which), you want to reboot your phone! To do this from the PC, you will just type adb reboot into the Command Line window we used previously.
Your phone will now boot with the new ROM (CyanogenMod), and has been factory reset (so you'll have to run through the first-run configuration wizard).
NOTE: Don't be scared if (after the boot animation disappears) the screen remains black for a minute or so! The first boot of the new ROM (especially with the Tiamat Kernel) does take a bit longer than every subsequent boot there-after. Just give the phone a few minutes, and press the Power button. You SHOULD see the Lock screen once the device is ready!
Run through the first-run wizard following instructions provided (fairly strait forward), though keep in mind that (at the time of writing) the wizard does not prompt for a WiFi connection until AFTER it attempts to log in to your Google account! Fear not, though, as when it fails to connect to your Google account (presuming you don't have Mobile Data available to you), it'll then prompt for a WiFi network and repeat the Google account login afterwards.
Once you have completed the first run config, open the "File Manager" app included as part of the ROM.
Navigate to /sdcard and run the com.android.vending-3.1.3.apk file. You'll be prompted to allow unknown sources, you want to tick that box and click on the APK again.
Once you've installed this, you will be running the latest (and greatest) version of Android Market, which (amongst other things) enables you to use a different Google account for your Apps (very useful if you want to install your paid applications on your wife's phone, as I have)
Welcome to CyanogenMod!....
Stage 3: Battery-saving Mega Settings [Menu-by-Menu]
The Settings I'm providing you here are the results of countless hours of experimentation (as well as logic and common sense). They have proven to provide the best degree of battery runtime with absolutely no performance or feature sacrifice!
If a menu or entry within a menu isn't mentioned, it's because it has no bearing on power saving!
Wireless & networks
Wi-Fi settings
Network notification = OFF
Press the Menu button, then Advanced
Wi-Fi sleep policy = NEVER
Call settings
Vibrate on answer = OFF
Vibrate every 45 seconds = OFF
Vibrate on hangup = OFF (NOTE: I leave this ON as my one concession as it's the only way you will know if a call drops out on you unexpectedly!)
Vibrate call waiting = OFF
Always use proximity = OFF
Enable sensor rotation = OFF
Voicemail notifications = ON (it doesn't save power, but seriously... you want it on!)
CyanogenMod settings
Display
Automatic backlight
Light sensor filter > Enabled = OFF (If enabled, unnecessarily drains more battery life! The feature itself is pointless as there is no difference to the UX with it Enabled or Disabled!)Light levels
Use custom = ON
Screen dim level = 14
Allow light decrease = ON
Edit other levels...
This is what I consider to be the most optimal set of levels:
Lower | Screen | Buttons
0 | 21 | 2
160 | 31 | 2
255 | 35 | 2
320 | 40 | 0
640 | 50 | 0
1280 | 75 | 0
2600 | 90 | 0
5800 | 130 | 0
8000 | 200 | 0
10000 | 255 | 0
Press Save & apply (scroll to the top to find the button)
NOTE: You may want to play around with some of the values in this table, as screen brightness is not a "one size fits all" affair, and what I can see clearly might not be so clear for you (or vice-versa). Basically, use those levels as a starting point, and tweak them from there until you find the best settings for you in various lighting conditions.
I will say this, you don't want to set the Buttons value above 0 if you can see the buttons even faintly at a given light level. The backlighting for the buttons is a surprising battery drain (it's calculated as part of the Screen's power consumption in the Battery Usage menu). Bottom line: if you don't need any lighting on the hardware buttons in order to use them even in pitch blackness, then set the value of Buttons for each set in the table to 0 and squeeze more life out of your battery!
Performance (press OK when the warning is displayed)
CPU settings
Available governors = SMARTASS ("SMARTASS" has been designed specifically [and brilliantly] to scale the CPU frequency with such a perfect balance of performance-on-demand versus power saving... it's the perfect choice!)
Min CPU frequency = 192
Max CPU frequency = 1036 (We'll be using SetCPU [full version, bought from the Market] to set up some magical CPU profiles later in this guide, saving us LOTS more battery life!)
Set on boot = ON
Sound
Haptic feedback = OFF (Remember: The phone's vibrator consumes more power than playing a beep or other short tone through the speaker at even the highest volume!)
Accounts and sync
Auto-sync = OFF (Auto-sync being disabled saves both battery power, as well as bandwidth on your Mobile Data tarif [2G and/or 3G dependant on carrier]. Really, you should just "sync on demand" as and when you want/need to!)
This concludes the Settings portion of the guide!
Stage 4: SetCPU (for ROOT users) configuration
SetCPU for ROOT Users is available for on the Android Market for just £1.25 (or $1.99 USD). Not only does this program enable you to overclock/underclock your phone's CPU, but more importantly it enables you to provide Profiles, to scale the CPU based on the operational status of your phone.
This is well worth the infintismal pricetag, as the potential power savings (at no performance cost) is more than significant!
Open SetCPU, go to the Profiles tab:
Enable = ON
Notifications = ON (Really this is up to you! I like to have notifications for when the profile is changing to ensure that the CPU is scaling properly, and to ensure that my profiles are the best they can be for performance/battery balance)
Add Profile
Profile = Charging AC
Max = 1036800 (Potentially, you could set it up to 2GHz, but I have stability (and heat) concerns, and I can't possibly see any circumstance where 2GHz would be remotely useful! If you do elect to overclock (particularly whilst charging), you will need to add a profile (with 100% priority) to drop the Max value if the temperature exceeds 45 C)
Min = 192000
Scaling = smartass
Press Save
Add Profile
Profile = Charging USB
Max = 1036800 (Basically 1GHz [original] CPU clock. We don't want to bleed into the minimal input of power provided by USB, so this is the best setting to use)
Min = 192000
Scaling = smartass
Press Save
Add Profile
Profile = Battery <
Battery < = 75%
Max = 652800
Min = 192000
Scaling = smartass
Press Save
Add Profile
Profile = Battery <
Battery < = 50%
Max = 576000
Min = 192000
Scaling = smartass
Press Save
B]Add Profile[/B]
Profile = Battery <
Battery < = 30%
Max = 422400
Min = 192000
Scaling = smartass
Priority = 80
Press Save
Add Profile
Profile = Screen Off
Max = 345600
Min = 192000
Scaling = smartass
Priority = 60
Press Save
Add Profile
Profile = Time
Time = 01:00 - 08:00 (NOTE: Substitute the given range with whatever your daily sleeping hours are!)
Max = 345600
Min = 192000
Scaling = smartass
Priority = 70
Press Save
The following profile is optional... and (if used) would specify your default clock speed
Add Profile
Profile = Battery <
Battery < = 101%
Max = 729600
Min = 192000
Scaling = smartass
Press Save
Feel free to experiment with other profiles as well! Perhaps you may want to procedurally reduce your CPU speed based on Battery % in a more gentle way... this is certainly possible, and would squeeze even more life out of your battery.
You should also feel free to use lower MAX values for each setting (I would strongly advise against higher values) if you feel that the lower clock speed makes little-to-no noticable difference in performance as you use your phone.
Personally, I notice no difference between 729600 and 1038600!
Stage 4: Recalibrating your Battery
Install the Battery Calibration app (FREE on the Android Market).
If your phone isn't charged, charge it up so that it is showing 100% (with the Green LED lit).
Run Battery Calibration and press the Battery Calibration button. Immediately unplug the power/USB cable from your phone, and allow it to run (as normal) until fully discharged.
Once the phone has switched itself off, plug it into the AC cable (using the mains charger).... and LEAVE YOUR PHONE SWITCHED OFF until the LED indicator is lit green!
You may want to repeat the discharge/recharge cycle one or two more times (as many people claim that this provides a better calibration)... though really that just entails running your phone on the battery until it is fully discharged, then allowing it (whilst switched off) to fully recharge on the mains adapter (AC)... which is not what most people would normally do as a routine.
Potential Stage 5: Tasker
Tasker (£3.99 on the Android Market) enables you to create profiles which automatically change various settings based on one or more given criteria. This even includes the ability to switch on and off features of your phone such as WiFi, Bluetooth, GPS, GSM, Mobile Data and Airplane Mode.
By creating suitable Tasker profiles, you can squeeze even more battery life out of your phone!
If it's of benefit to people (let me know in the comments) I can expand this guide to include step-by-step instructions on creating the various profiles I would recommend in order to squeeze more battery runtime out of your phone without sacrifising features/functionality.
General Battery Storage/Maintenance Advice (Applies to all Lithium-Ion Batteries, including those used in Laptops)
To prolong the operational lifespan of your battery, you should not really allow your battery to run for very long below 50% charge, as "topping up" a half-charged battery generates less wear and tear on the battery, prolonging its overall lifespan.
NEVER leave your phone fully discharged for more than an hour, or the LiIon cells will begin to degrade, meaning your battery will never be able to physically hold as much charge. Indeed, the longer you leave a discharged battery, the less overall capacity your battery will retain.
NEVER store your battery (even if the phone is running at the time) in cold conditions! As a general rule of thumb, if it's "a little chilly" for you, it's unhealthy for the battery!
Both of the above tips form respectively the Number 1 and 2 causes of battery death! Don't let your battery become another statistic!
If - like me - you have one or more "spare batteries", you will likely be tempted to store them when they are fully charged (100%). This sounds like a good thing to do, but actually it can have (to a slightly lesser degree) the same damaging effect on the battery as leaving it fully discharged for any prolonged period of time!
The absolute best level of charge at which you should store a battery is at 50%, or as close there-to as possible!
Dependant on how often you find yourself recharging your battery, you should recalibrate it between every 3 to 6 months (the more often you discharge/recharge, the less often you should recalibrate).
Also, you should ALWAYS recalibrate after having flashed a new (or updated) ROM and/or Kernel!
My results using the exact configuration [excluding Tasker] detailed in this guide...
As I stated above, with the way I use my Desire S, I was lucky to get 8 hours of what I would call "light-to-moderate" use whilst running on the battery!
With the configuration detailed in this guide, I have now had a successful "100% to discharged" usage of 46 hours (under the exact same usage conditions as when I was using the stock ROM factory-installed on the phone (and updated OTA ~ a week ago).
This is a VERY significant improvement, though I must stress that results will vary heavily based on how much (or what) software you're running on the phone, how often you're interacting with it, how long you spend in calls etc.
Basically, every phone is different, and every operator (me, you, everyone) is different.
Please also keep in mind that your phone won't "settle in" to the new settings in terms of battery runtime until you've done 2 or 3 discharge/recharge cycles (as explained in the Battery Calibration portion of this guide)
Conclusion
There are plenty of third-party ROMs out there, and (obviously) I can't physically test them all! I have tested what I believe anyone would consider to be a perfectly suitable number (more than a dozen now), and have found the exact combination detailed in this guide to provide the very best battery runtime for me.
I understand that some of you will likely have your own ROM preference (for various reasons), but I hope that at least some sections of this guide will be useful to you.
If you just want to get the very best battery performance out of your Desire S, and either don't particularly care what ROM you use, or (like me) happen to love Cyanogen anyway... this guide will fit you like a glove!
Need any more advice?
No problem... post your comments and questions as a reply to this guide, and I'll answer anything I can, as promptly as possible (please consider that I have a company to run, and a life beyond the Internet... so replies might not always be "instant")
I hope you like this guide, and more importantly... I hope you enjoy your new-found battery runtime!
Unfortunately, I'm a Sense fan. ...so will take persuding to move away from the interface, as been using it for many years, but, I still appreciate a piece full of insight and advice written for the communities benefit. Well done and thanks for sharing.
I'll reference this in the development INDEX next to CM7 ROMS
ben_pyett said:
Unfortunately, I'm a Sense fan. ...so will take persuding to move away from the interface, as been using it for many years, but, I still appreciate a piece full of insight and advice written for the communities benefit. Well done and thanks for sharing.
I'll reference this in the development INDEX next to CM7 ROMS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I can understand why so many people strictly adhere to Sense ROMs... for me the "slight prettiness" of Sense doesn't justify the hammering of the battery... especially as I actually preffer the L&F of Cyanogen anyway
If I have gotten 18 hours with almost always screen off I returned the phone. With nomal usage my phone last more than one day. Keeping the screen almost always off last almost 2 days with wifi and sync turned on (to be honest, never reached that again). ROM is whether LBC or rooted stock whith stock HTC kernel. So I can find any problem there. Nevertheless, this is a smartphone, and I always have a charger with me
I will try CM and what the battery life is like.
Profile = Charging AC
Max = 157440 (Potentially, you could set it up to 2GHz, but I have stability concerns, and I can't possibly see any circumstance where 2GHz would be remotely useful!)
Min = 192000
Scaling = smartass
Press Save
Fried CPU kgo. Overclock + Charging = Excessive heat being generated.
zeekiz said:
Profile = Charging AC
Max = 157440 (Potentially, you could set it up to 2GHz, but I have stability concerns, and I can't possibly see any circumstance where 2GHz would be remotely useful!)
Min = 192000
Scaling = smartass
Press Save
Fried CPU kgo. Overclock + Charging = Excessive heat being generated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have tested this setting with my own phone, and the heat increase was LESS than 1 Celcius (infintismal)... sure, if you wanted, you could use a lower value.
Its your call, your thread, I just feel that it isn't a good idea. At least even consider placing a warning adjacent to it.
LaKraven said:
I have tested this setting with my own phone, and the heat increase was LESS than 1 Celcius (infintismal)... sure, if you wanted, you could use a lower value.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could add a setcpu profile for limitting the temperature. I dont overclock, but when im using my phone while charging, it gets hot, so I limit the temperature at 41.1 C , so 768mhz - 245mhz , on demand.
lbc ROM, stock kernel
zeekiz said:
Its your call, your thread, I just feel that it isn't a good idea. At least even consider placing a warning adjacent to it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've updated the guide (see the update notes at the very top of the post). The on-AC overclock setting has been removed, and I have placed a warning about overclocking next to it.
Updated the post to address a typo in one of the SetCPU profiles (I missed a 0 from the end of 345600).
I will have done this process by tomorrow, I'm sure - even bought Tasker. - Hoping I wont damage something in the process since I've never dealt with an HTC phone before. :/ Since my mom bought it to me as a present, she just peeks in from time to time to check wth am I doing with it - gotta keep a satisfied grin on my face all the time while I'm figuring how to fix this problem lolz
Really you just need to follow instructions (read everything through at least twice before you begin), be patient... and double-check everything you're abuot to do before you do it.
You can't do any more than that!
I've flashed both of these phones so many times now, and the only mistake I ever made was forgetting to clear the cache (Which results in an infinite boot loop or "soft brick", easily recovered by constantly typing "adb reboot recovery" in your Command Prompt, which will eventually make the phone re-enter recovery mode (exiting the infinite boot loop), at which point you can wipe, clear cache, reflash, and relax!
LaKraven said:
Really you just need to follow instructions (read everything through at least twice before you begin), be patient... and double-check everything you're abuot to do before you do it.
You can't do any more than that!
I've flashed both of these phones so many times now, and the only mistake I ever made was forgetting to clear the cache (Which results in an infinite boot loop or "soft brick", easily recovered by constantly typing "adb reboot recovery" in your Command Prompt, which will eventually make the phone re-enter recovery mode (exiting the infinite boot loop), at which point you can wipe, clear cache, reflash, and relax!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Funny, so true, in fact, did just that myself about two minutes ago while testing another ROM, meant trip to PC, plug in, power on, and then sorted adb reboot recovery
Swyped from HTC Desire S using XDA Premium
ben_pyett said:
Funny, so true, in fact, did just that myself about two minutes ago while testing another ROM, meant trip to PC, plug in, power on, and then sorted adb reboot recovery
Swyped from HTC Desire S using XDA Premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know I'm not the only one! It's such an easy step to overlock... just a good job it's also the least fatal mistake to make!
and then this
.. Ther is no Path in User, but there is in System...Geez, so tired..What do....:/ I'm all set to flash, just this thing I think...
You need to reinstall Java JDK.
This has happened to me before!
LaKraven said:
You need to reinstall Java JDK.
This has happened to me before!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thx man I did that, I also don't have any command prompts in here :
C:\Program Files (x86)\Android\android-sdk\platform-tools
Bombastc said:
Thx man I did that, I also don't have any command prompts in here :
C:\Program Files (x86)\Android\android-sdk\platform-tools
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Open Windows Explorer, navigate to C:\Program Files (x86)\Android\android-sdk\platform-tools
Hold down SHIFT and RIGHT-CLICK in on that folder
Click "Open command line window here"
You're then ready to start using ADB commands
LaKraven said:
UPDATE [11th September 2011]
Potential Stage 5: Tasker
By creating suitable Tasker profiles, you can squeeze even more battery life out of your phone!
If it's of benefit to people (let me know in the comments) I can expand this guide to include step-by-step instructions on creating the various profiles I would recommend in order to squeeze more battery runtime out of your phone without sacrifising features/functionality.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would really like that. Yesterday followed your guide and learning new things as i went about the CyanogenMod. I'm curious now how far my battery will bring me :-D.
At the moment i'm using the trial version of phoneweaver and automateit, which are nice programs, but if tasker is more efficient although having a steeper learning curve, i will switch in an instant.
shizuku said:
I would really like that. Yesterday followed your guide and learning new things as i went about the CyanogenMod. I'm curious now how far my battery will bring me :-D.
At the moment i'm using the trial version of phoneweaver and automateit, which are nice programs, but if tasker is more efficient although having a steeper learning curve, i will switch in an instant.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As a tasker convert myself, I can also say that you'll read a great review of some of its functionality and a slightly biased review of the product by wnp_79 as part of his [GUIDE] Update 28/06/11: HTC Desire S Guide (V1.03) For Newcomers to Android which is in a sticky at the top of the forum.
I've been doing some digging about the touchscreen , it's mechanism and how or in what ways it can be tweaked.
First of all i broke my first digitizer , ordered another one and replaced it completely. This gave me an opportunity to experiment on the old broken one (Although cracked , it was still intact)
The digitizer creates an electrostatic barrier which is sustained by the battery. When disturbed by a capacitive material (Skin) electrons flood through the capacitive material leaving the digitizer.
The controller measures the disturbance in the electrostatic barrier and it's location.
As the current leaves the digitizer , it increases its response time , especially in multi-touch situations.
Inspired by the Overvolting , i wired 3 1.5 volt batteries in parallel and wired the output to a 0.5 volt regulator. (If you connect the negative side you can't use the touchscreen)
I taped the wires to the touchscreen , connected it and opened up the phone.
The touchscreen's response time decreased a little bit , i don't actually know if it's actually placebo.
I unwired the regulator and tried the 1.5 volt in parallel alone.
Guess what , i noticed at least %40 improvement on the touchscreen... (Not placebo , i'm sure.)
So according to the information above i have 2 questions ;
1. Is there any way to tweak the operating system to give the digitizer additional , more powerful current ?
2. Is there any way to optimize the touchscreen more efficiently , softwarewise ? (Read about the scrolling cache and few other things , if you could explain how i can disable it and measure the differences , that'd be great.)
Thanks in advance.
These are good information s to know ,, thank you very much .
About tweaking there are some tweaks avaiable for every device (init.d scripts and build.prop tweaks) I do not know what do they actually do but it's inprove it .
About the voltage I do not know (but maybe it will damage the screen if it still on for a long time maybe) .
But be careful do not play with these things much maybe you will lose your screen .
Use these commands (tweak) :-
echo 7035 > /sys/class/touch/switch/set_touchscreen;
echo 8002 > /sys/class/touch/switch/set_touchscreen;
echo 11000 > /sys/class/touch/switch/set_touchscreen;
echo 13060 > /sys/class/touch/switch/set_touchscreen;
echo 14005 > /sys/class/touch/switch/set_touchscreen;
Run them with terminal emulator or save them as *.SH file or you can make them as an init.d script to make it run every reboot .
Sent From My LG-P920 (ICS Ported)
Try Use THANKS Button If I Helped
Revised 1-Mar-2018
I've updated the writings a bit for the 1 Sept firmware update.
In case you are wondering I have this unit : Joying EU-JY-FL121N2
01. It is worth the upgrade from Androd 5 to 6?
For me this things determined me to update
1. Split screen - you can put side by side 2 apps, not all apps work but most do. (does not work with 1 sept firmware)
On Android 6 the split screen it known to be buggy but for me it worked ok, i find it useful putting Waze and PlayerPro side by side. iGo does not support split screen if you wonder.
When the units enters sleep it "forgets" which apps were in split screen so next time the HU wakes up you need to set those 2 apps again in split screen. It does not take long but if you do it on a daily basis it gets annoying... quickly.
2. Better CPU management and with that comes a bit better CPU power management (less heat generated for basic tasks, like playing music)
3. The notifications background is not white anymore with the white text on it... it's how it is supposed to be... dark gray so you can read the white text
Later edit :
I been through all the Android 6 releases and I can tell you that it still does not feel as stable as it was on Android 5. There are many times when I felt sorry that I've upgraded to 6. I would downgrade to 5 in an instant if it would be possible. The unit bad implementation of the sleep behavior it really bugs me.
Ranting more on the subject here : https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=72726651&postcount=47
L.E. 25 July offers the best stability so far, can't recommend the 1 sept update : read here
02. The mods of Android 5 are updated for Android 6 - 21 Sept (the latest at the time of writing)
Yes ! All of them.
03. Are there any custom roms for the Joying Intel Sofia ?
Yes ! Finally ! Thanks to @gtxaspec and @surfer63 we have this :
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an.../rom-gtx-joying-stock-rom-2018-01-29-t3742482
04. Deezer white bar issue : This bug presents itself on android 6 only. Deezer has a white bar in player mode, annoying at night and ugly looking. Contacted Deezer, they promised a fix that never came, it’s been a month. Contacted Joying, they told me that they can’t do anything about it. Tested a lot of Deezer versions and found out that the version 5.3.11.90 is the newest that does not have the bug.
LE : they still haven't fixed it and wrote them 5 times already... they promised each time... they value my input... yeah, right.
L.E.E - 2018: kept writing up tickets latest was 2 weeks ago... they are still looking into was the answer.... for more then 1 year i must add... very poor user support,
05. XiiaLive Pro issue : If the unit has the server no-kill mod installed, XiiaLive Pro has FFmpeg as the decoder (this is set by default), you put the app on pause and send the unit to sleep (turn off the engine), for some unknown reason the unit start to drain 0.15A instead of the default 0.01A and after a few minutes of sleeping it shuts down. You NEED to change the decoder from FFmpeg to Android to solve the problem.
LE : They pretty much abandoned the development. This app has some issues, a big one being that when another music app steals the audio focus the Xia app does not pause or stop and continues to stream in the background, eating data for no reason. Wrote them a few times... nothing...
06. What is the unit default DPI? Everything seems so small coming from my old unit.
The default DPI is 160. If you set the DPI to 161 some apps will change the look of the interface (tablet - phone)
L.E. - this can be solved with the help of the @gtxaspec custom ROM or installing Xposed and AppSettings mod via JET app made by @surfer63
Unfortunately once you change the unit DPI from the default 160 to anything else, say 200, some of the default apps do not scale well and the notification bar grows in thickness a lot (taking a lot of screen estate) so I recommend a restart after each DPI modification to see how the android UI looks and also you need to check all the apps to see if there are badly affected by the DPI change.
You can set the DPI via adb like this (you need to have adb installed) :
adb kill-server
adb connect IP (exemple : adb connect 192.168.1.55)
adb shell wm density xxx (xxx being the density number for example 180 or 190 or 200 or 220 )
07. After the update the unit shuts down instead of sleeping what shall I do:
This unit has some kind of power monitoring, if an process or an app hangs the unit, draining more power then it should while it's in sleep mode it shuts down the unit in order to protect the car battery from draining completely.
Most of the people that upgraded the unit (from android 5 to 6 or from one build of android 6 to another build of 6) without wipeing the data had various problems so updating this unit is not an option in my opinion with a proper wipe, no matter the firmware or version number.
For trouble free, smooth operation you MUST do the following: (revised 05-sep-2017)
1. backup data
2. take out all the microsd cards, usb sticks and check them all for errors (some users had problems with data corruption on the cards that they kept in while updating)
3. delete ALL the files from the internal storage (with the default file manager, go to internal storage, select all, delete)
4. wipe the unit / reset the unit to defaults from the settings
5. before flash the new firmware (again) let the unit cool down at least 30-45 minutes because without additional cooling it overheats and the CPU throttles all the way down to 416Mhz (processing everything extremely slowly) preventing the unit to successfully finish the firmware update. The updating is on a timer and once the timer is out the unit reset itself even if it did not finish the update. And you might find yourself in an endless loop and in some rare cases people got their units bricked. I've never had any problems because I update my units at home and while they are on my desk I take the lid off and put an big fan to blow over the components to cool everything down.
6. wipe it again / reset the unit to defaults from the settings (this is optional)
7. test the sleep function (to see if the unit without any additional software installed behaves ok)
8. put everything back / reconfigure (I personally prefer not to restore from a Titanium backup and reinstall everything and reconfigure)
9. test the sleep function again (to see if the unit is still ok after all that you installed or moded)
10. before inserting back the old microSD cards and usb sticks in the new reflashed/reinstalled unit, make sure that are no files on them from the previous installation (files left over by apps from the the previous installation)
It's always a good idea to start clean and delete the leftovers files that sometimes could be damaged and once you put the back you might encounter problems.
08. I’ve just upgraded my unit and it feels slow, slugish?
Follow the above tutorial except step 7 and 9
09.I can’t turn off the screen/touch BEEP, it’s annoying! Help !
Solution 1
BEFORE flashing or reflashing edit the file “config.txt” from the root of the update
And change this line "ro.fyt.amp_switch=1" to this "ro.fyt.amp_switch=0" (it sets the AMP Enable to OFF by default)
Solution 2
1. Enter Car Settings app
2. Go to the bottom right tab (the one with the screwdriver on it) ckick it and enter 3368
3. go to the AMP Enable option and turn it OFF
4. go to the EQ menu (second bottom tab from right to left) from the Car Settings and now you have Keypad Tone option and you can turn it off.
10. After update, adb via wi-fi does not work anymore.
Solution 1: by @gtxaspec
Before flashing edit the “config.txt” (in the root of the firmware) and add this line without the quotes “service.adb.tcp.port=5555”
Solution 2 : by @gustden
1) download a terminal program ( Terminal Emulator for Android )
2) enter the following command: setprop persist.adb.tcp.port 5555
3) reboot
Solution 3 : mod by @AssassinsLament
In order to be able to do anything on the unit via ADB you NEED to enable ABD over Wi-Fi so download AoW_v1.0.apk from here https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=71616884&postcount=273 , copy the apk to a stick, run it in the unit and let it do it's job. (you can uninstall it at the end but I advise you to keep it and disable the ADB Over Wi-FI for security purposes)
11. I need to root what shall I do?
The mod credit goes to @surfer63 !
1. Go to https://github.com/hvdwolf/Joying-RootAssistant
2. go to the green button "Clone or download" and choose Download ZIP, download the file
3. create folder c:\rootjoy and unpack the zip there
4. connect to a router (home or phone router), and check what IP your headunit has (something like 192.168.1.34)
4. open an command prompt with admin rights
5. type the following without the quotes
- "cd c:\rootjoy"
- "cd SuperSU_for_Joying_Intel"
6. at this point restart the unit, once it has booted enter next line (don't let the HU IDLE too long once it has booted because you will get disconnect errors)
- copy_install.bat IP (example copy_install.bat 192.168.1.34)
- if there are no errors, reboot (I followed the steps above and never failed)
7. you are now rooted
Later edit : @surfer63 moved files around and the repository adress from point 1 is at : https://github.com/hvdwolf/Joying-RootAssistant/releases/tag/20170617-02
I haven't tested rooting with the new archive
Later edit 2 : @surfer63 put up a nice tutorial here : https://hvdwolf.github.io/Joying-RootAssistant/rooting.html
12. The default EQ and overall sound quality is poor, can I do anything to improve it?
Solution 1
Viper4Android : brought the sound to life for me, without it the sound quality is poor. With this software you can improve it quite a lot. The unit NEEDS to be rooted so you have to follow the above tutorial and root the unit first in order to install the Viper.
01. go to this post https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=72064749&postcount=41, download the viper.zip file.
02. For the me last version of the Viper4Android (included in the viper.zip) works ok but the EQ section is broken for me (meaning changing the EQ modifies the sound just slightly) so I used an older version of Viper4Android where the EQ section actually works and you can clearly hear the difference when playing with the EQ bars.. If you want to use my version go to to step 12 if you want to install the @AssassinsLament version go to step 03
03. unpack the viper.zip to C:\viper
04. open an cmd prompt with admin rights
05. "cd c:\viper"
06. restart the HU, just to be safe, after the reboot enter the next line in cmd prompt
07. enter "viper.bat IP" (example : viper.bat 192.168.1.34)
08. after it finished reboot the HU
09. after reboot ran the app, say yes when it wants to install the driver, wait, it takes a few minutes, if android wants to end the task press wait, be patient, when it's done reboot again.
10. ran the app again, from the left menu select settings, and lock on the headset profile (because the headset has all the options enabled so more power to you for tweaking the sound)
11. select headset profile and have fun tweaking the sound.
12. unpack the viper.zip to C:\viper
13. go to https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2191223 scroll down to v2.3.4.0 (Android 2.3~5.0) and download the mediafire link next to it (http://www.mediafire.com/download/cnqqdme51qy9ft4/ViPER4Android_FX_v2340.zip)
14. inside the ViPER4Android_FX_v2340.zip there are 2 files, unpack the ViPER4Android_FX_A4.x.apk to the "c:\viper\viper" folder
15. rename it from ViPER4Android_FX_A4.x.apk to ViPER4Android_FX_v2505_A4.x-A7.x.apk and overwrite the original ViPER4Android_FX_v2505_A4.x-A7.x.apk
16. now you can follow the steps from 05 to 10 pretty much.
Later edit : Unfortunately, the EQ section from the Viper app (no matter the version used) does not work with 25May and 7July firmware, the sound stutters, the music speed slows down in a weird way, there are pops in the speakers.
Currently I am using the Viper only to enhance the bass mainly that you can't do otherwise with the extremely limited default Joying EQ.
My settings are as follows :
Viper Bass to +8db
Viper Clarity to +3.5db
Dynamic System to 10% - High Performance Headphones v1
Solution 2 - by @bogdi1988
You can change the default AMP TDA 7388 chip with the Pioneer PA2030A or the TDA7850
Read here the details:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/android-head-units/joying-sofia-chip-upgrade-t3589587
13. Enable “OK Google” from any screen or app possible on this unit?
No, at this time, with this firmware version (25 May) at the time of writing there is no solution.
The velvet.apk works fine, it does not crash, you can OK Google from any screen/app BUT it breaks the unit sleep mode, the unit will shutdown instead of sleeping.
14. In this (25 May) firmware of android 6 is the Google Maps voice finally works with the FM Radio app?
Yes!
15. When I turn off the engine all the apps that are running are closed (killed) while the unit is sleeping.
You need to have a look at this thread for the @gustden mod:
For the 25 May firmware he built the 6.3 version of it’s mod.
All the details and more here :
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...-units/joying-2gb-steering-wheel-key-t3543390
Later edit : The 6.3 mod still works with 7 July but the guy that worked his magic on the mod did not update the mod for the 7July firmware at the time of writing and it's been away for 1.5 months so I am not sure about the future of the mod
16. I want to enable split screen so I can run 2 apps at the same time.
In order to do that you need to replace the Joying modified Settings.apk with the original android.
We are gonna use the @AssassinsLament script so
1. Go to this post https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=72107737&postcount=109 and download the “4-27-17_Original_5009_20_Settings.zip” file
2. Create the folder c:\replace_settings and unpack the content of the 4-27-17_Original_5009_20_Settings.zip file
3. Create a new folder called c:\replace_settings_temp and unpack the in this folder the contents of the 5009_60.zip file that it’s in the root of the firmware that that you used to flash the unit.
If you don't have it download exactly the same firmware archive that you did to update the unit, unpack it and in the root you will find the 5009_60.zip archive that contains the Settings.apk and Settings.odex that you need.
4. Copy the Settings.apk file that you will find in the c:\replace_settings_temp\system\priv-app\Settings\ to c:\replace_settings\SETTINGS, (overwriting the old one)
5. Also copy the file Settings.odex from c:\replace_settings_temp\system\priv-app\Settings\oat\x86\ to c:\replace_settings\SETTINGS, (overwriting the old one)
6. Now run a cmd prompt with admin rights and enter the c:\replace_settings folder
7. Enter settings.bat IP (IP of the unit, example: settings.bat 192.168.1.55)
8. Reboot
9.Go to settings and to About Tablet option, go all the way down to the Build number and keep tapping it till it tells you that you have become a developer
10.Push back once and now you have a new menu “Developer options”
11.Enter it and at the “Drawing” section there is an option called “Multi-window mode” ENABLE it
12.Now when you push the task switcher (from the notification bar) when the running apps are presented they have some icons on the left and you can decide how the apps will run, full screen, split screen on the right part of the screen, split screen on the left of the screen
17. I want to tether via Bluetooth, is it possible?
Yes with the mod made by @doitright
Solution 1
Go to https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...elopment/bluetooth-settings-launcher-t3504526 and download BluetoothTethering.apk
You can follow the tutorial on that page if you are comfortable with ADB or if can follow mine so :
1. Make a folder (with Root Explorer) named “BluetoothTethering” in “/system/priv-app/
2. Give the folder 755 permissions (long click on the folder to have the folder selected and then go to the upper left to the 3 dots , and from the menu pick permissions then tick the boxes till you get 755)
3. Copy in the newly created folder the BluetoothTethering.apk file and give it 644 permissions
4. Reboot
5. Open the HU default bluetooth app and pair the phone with the HU (I suggest to change the default PIN (0000) to something else for security purposes
6. Start the BluetoothTethering app select the paired phone, enable Auto Connect PAN, push Start Service, also Enable Auto Bluetooth Tethering.
Solution 2
Use this app from the playstore :
Free version : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tomlocksapps.bluetoothtetheringmanager
Paid version : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tomlocksapps.bluetoothtetheringmanager.pro
18. Even at the lowest settings the screen is too bright.
Solution 1
1. Enter the Car Settings app
2. Select the lowest tab on the lower right (the one with the screwdriver)
3. Enter code 3368
4. Scroll towards the bottom and you shall see a option named :”Backlight current adjustment”. I have this menu, some said they don’t have it so my guess is that it depends on the model of the unit … can’t say for sure. (LE : the menu is present if you flash the firmware with a certain file read at no 48 down the page)
5. The pass for the menu is 5768 and here you can define the high and low of the brightness slider from the notification bar (swipe down 2 times). For my unit I have no problem turning the brightness low point all the way to 5 and still I am not quite satisfied by the brightness low level.. Some users complained that if they turn it down to 30 the screen turns black, like in the illumination stops completely and some complained that they can’t turn it back on. So PAY ATTENTION while you play with the sliders… and if something bad happens don’t touch the screen at random in order to avoid pushing the SAVE button… you better reset the unit via RST button and start over.
Solution 2:
You need to modify in the customercfg.txt file that you find it in the root of the firmware before flashing.The file contains these 2 lines :
set-blduty-min=5 -> 5 defines the lowest point for brightness slider
set-blduty-max=100 -> 100 defines the highest point for the brightness slider
For me works perfectly 5 and 100. For some at 5 the illumination turns completely off so they run into issues like “after booting the screen turns off” so you NEED to TEST how low can you go on the slider in the “Backlight current adjustment” manu before modifying the file with the proper numbers.
Solution 3: Software
There are some software solutions for dimming the screen even more by applying a screen filter/overlay:
Warning : It does not play well with SuperSu that has TapJacking protection so while the filter is active the SuperSu does not acknowledge your tapping on it's menus if you want to Grand an app permissions for instance.
There is an option to disable the Tapjacking protection in SuperSu but I would advise not to.
The go to app for me is this : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.haxor
19. When I install Google app the launcher crashes.
Yes it does, you can’t do anything about it except changing the launcher before installing Google app or change the launcher to a 3rd party launcher like Nova launcher or the default “launcher” (not Launcher3).
If you have installed Google and it keeps on crashing use the DOT app (if you haven’t disable it) on the screen to get to settings and uninstall Google app, reboot, then change the launcher, then reinstall the Google app.
Later edit - 7july - They finally fixed the problem in the 7 July firmware. I haven't tested personally but from what people wrote on the forum it seems ok now.
@CadillacMike confirms here : https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=73063409&postcount=969
20. Everytime I reboot the unit the FM Radio app starts automatically, can I turn that off.
No, there is no solution on how to take that “feature” down yet
Later edit : @Skinzaholic found this solution : https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=73672935&postcount=251
Other threads that you need to read
1. Mostly about android 5 but also many usefull informations and redirects to various usefull threads like hardware cooling mods
ROLL-UP -Joying 2GB - Sofia ( Non MTCB/MTCD )- Tips, tricks and mods
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...roll-joying-2gb-sofia-mtcb-mtcd-tips-t3555249
2. The initial android 6 thread with lots of good info but spread on many pages, a good read none the less
Joying Intel Head Unit Android 6 Update
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ing-intel-head-unit-android-6-update-t3597121
21. Some have the FYT5009 SOM but some have the new FYT6021, what are the differences?
1. both have 2Gb or ram and 32Gb storage
2. the CPU on the FYT5009 has a max clock of 1.041Ghz
3. the CPU on the FYT6021 has a max clock of 1,2Ghz
4. the FYT6021 SOM has a tiny bit better heatsink (shape wise to dissipate the heat) but worse for cooling mods. The heatsink is attached with screws so it's easy to take out and replace the thermal paste (with a higher quality one) between the components of the SOM (CPU, VRM) and the heatsink. It does not have thermal pads between the components of the SOM and the heatsink like the FYT5009 does if you look at the pictures here http://4pda.ru/forum/lofiversion/index.php?t793304-1400.html
5. the FYT5009 has an worse heatsink but way better for a cooling mod because of it's smooth surface (glue a bigger heatsink on it), it also has a big and thick thermal pad under the SOM to move some of the heat to the bottom of the steel case. The heatsink is soldered to the SOM board so it's tricky to open up and replace the thermal paste, but someone did it on the russian forum, user YAM1966 and he claims that he lowered the temp by 13C . More details here : http://4pda.ru/forum/lofiversion/index.php?t793304-1400.html (use google translate)
6. the motherboard that hosts the FYT6021 SoM does not have the 2 video out RCAs like the one that hosts the FYT5009 SoM
If you ask me BOTH SOMs need active cooling. The default heatsink on both is poor and without active cooling the heat builds up very fast to 60-70C.
22. Is there a problem if I flash the firmware made for FYT6021 to the FYT5009?
I heaven't seen anyone doing that for testing purposes so I don't know what happens. I was curious to see if flashing the 6021 firmware onto a 5009 drives the CPU clock to 1.2Ghz but I haven't found any info on it.
Although the SOMs are pretty much the same the motherboards that sit on look different from one model to another (different layout, some extra connectors on the board, missing video outputs) so the MCU's could be a bit different... I would say it's a small chance that you could brick the unit.... I can't tell if it will be permanent or temporary (if in the brick state allows you to you flash it again with the proper firmware)
23. Are there any mods/skins of the default FM Radio app?
Yes. @surfer63 did a very nice work here (with pictures)
https://hvdwolf.github.io/Joying-RootAssistant/RadioMods-examples.html
24. Are there any mirrors to the Joying firmwares?
Yes. @gtxaspec was very kind and hosted some here : http://mirrors.gtxlabs.com/joying/1_Firmware/
But not the latest one....
25. I need a small ADB kit to install and use, where can I find one?
Here : https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=42407269#post42407269
You can find portable (no install needed) and non portable versions also.
26. How much power it drains in sleep mode?
Usually the unit enters sleep in 50 seconds to 1 minute after you turn off the engine. In those 50 seconds to 1 minute the power drain fluctuates from 0.50 to 0.75A. After that the unit drains ONLY 0.012A.
I noticed 2 instances when the sleep behavior changes, can't really tell if it's by design or it's a bug:
1 If you happen turn on the engine in that 50 seconds to 1 minute time frame, before the HU enters sleep, from that moment on the unit will enter sleep only after 5 minutes from the moment the engine is off. In those 5 minutes the power drain fluctuates from 0.50A to 0.75A but mostly in the 0.60A area. After those 5 minutes it enters sleep mode and drains only 0.012A
2. After using Waze and iGo at some point the same issue occurs, and the unit behaves like I described above.
The unit has some fail safes and if for some reason it gets stuck draining more power than it should it shuts down/power off on it's own.
27. How long does it stay in sleep mode ?
Personally I haven't test it for more then 2.5 days and it slept fine 2.5 days without shutting down.. I use my car every day so it rarely sits in the driveway for long periods of time.
Some users said that it shuts down after 72 hours.
28. I am leaving my car in a parking lot of a month, I am afraid that my car battery will be empty when I get back, what shall I do?
If you don't start the car for a a longer period of time and you left the unit sleeping the HU shuts down/turn off at some point on it's own, no one really knows exactly after how much time is needed for that to happen.
To be absolutely sure that the unit drains no power at all and the car battery is safe do this :
1. enter Car settings app
2. Go to the bottom right tab (the one with the screwdriver on it) ckick it and enter 3368
3. Make sure that Dormancy Settings is set to OFF (the unit will power off/shut down when you stop the engine)
In the power off mode the HU it drains 0.00A
29. Why not use the Shutdown button from the notification bar to shutdown the unit ( 2 swipes down) ?
If in the Car Settings app the Dormancy Settings is set to ON, after you pushed the on screen button with the engine still running, the HU turns off the screen and backlight and it drains 0.45-0.60A. After you turn off the engine it enters sleep mode and drains the usual 0.012A. It does NOT shutdown! If you turn on the engine it wakes up in 2 seconds.
30. What about the Standby button?
It is semi-useless in my opinion. It displays the time and the date, white fonts on a black background.... nothing more.
31. Waze hangs when the HU exits sleep
I happened to me in many firmware versions, did not had the time to check how it behaves in the 25May version.
What I did is:
1. install the V6.3-Custom_Keys-Mods.zip made by @gustden from here : https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...-units/joying-2gb-steering-wheel-key-t3543390
2. I've downloaded Notepad++ app to be able to edit the install.sh from here : https://notepad-plus-plus.org/download/v7.4.1.html
2. Edited the launcher.sh with Notepad++ and inserted this
sleep 5
am force-stop com.waze
After this:
98) # ACC_OFF - executes on key off
$pause
In the end it should look like this :
98) # ACC_OFF - executes on key off
$pause
sleep 5
am force-stop com.waze
What is does is after you turn off the engine, it waits for 5 seconds and it kills the waze task. The good thing is that once the units wakes up it launches automatically the last active app, so it starts Waze and it resumes the course if it was interrupted during a course.
32. What app shall I use to edit launcher.sh ?
Notepad++, free, official download site : https://notepad-plus-plus.org/download/v7.4.1.html
33. How fast does the unit start?
1. From shutdown it takes 43 seconds.
2. From sleep it takes 2-3 seconds
My experience : I am using the unit for more then 3 weeks now and the unit never rebooted and it never started in the morning from shutdown.
34. What was your previous unit? Why did you choose this one?
Before this one I had an Witson unit with an RK3066 (dual core 1.6Ghz) with 1Gb of ram and 8Gb of storage, 2 microsd slots, 2 usb ports.
I upgraded to this one mostly for 2 reasons it's instant power on and the XDA support and community. After I bought it, I discovered that it has GLONASS and that was a great addition and it had a bit better GPS signal also a welcomed plus. After that I discovered that the unit can be tethered via bluetooth, a major plus.
The new unit lacks a CD/DVD drive but I don't need one, because I mostly stream music and use Waze... when I am in an area with no cellular coverage I use PlayerPro and iGo/Here. I haven't touched a CD in years also I consider the DVD technology obsolete. The sound quality of the FM Radio on the Joying unit is a lot better than my previous unit but it still lacks badly for me, especially when I listen to music, it lacks the dynamic range, it lacks punch, the clarity needed to be able to enjoy music. For talk shows and news is perfectly fine.
Believe me or not but I haven't really felt that this unit is faster then my previous one probably because I keep my units simple, I have very few apps loaded and running.
35. Have you done any hardware mods to your unit?
Yes. I could not stand the high temperatures of the CPU and the throttling on a hot day so I glued (with the help of Arctic Alumina thermal adhesive) some small heatsinks on top the (default) smooth aluminium heatsink to help dissipate the heat more efficiently and soon after I added a few more taller heatsinks for an even better efficiency. All that helped till a certain point where the heat buillt up in the steel case and remains trapped there heating everything up pretty nicely. So I drilled a lot of holes into the top of the case and mounted an low power, low noise high quality fan (Noctua NF R8 redux 1200). The fan sucks the air into the case and slowly cools down the internals.
36. Is there a way to start Google Maps with a darker theme at night to search for a place?
Yes! I was also bothered that when I start the Google Maps at night time, it welcomes me with a blinding white-gray map. Once you plot a course it enters navigation mode, checks (via gps) if its night outside and goes to a dark theme but untill that moment you have to deal with the white map.
So there is an Google Maps widget, more like a shortcut called "Driving" and that one starts the Google Maps in driving mode and at night has the proper dark theme and the cool thing is that in daytime has the proper bright theme.
37. Is there a way to set the default start up volume?
Yes ! In Car Settings app, first tab, lower left, scroll down till you found "Default boot volume" and set it to a decent 7 or 8... the default is 18 and it's too much.
38. I am using a pair of sunglasses that are polarized when I am driving and when I look at the unit the screen reflections (glare) are rainbow like, extremely annoying and the screen looks somewhat darker? Is there a solution for that?
Yes I bought an anti-reflex screen protector, from here : http://www.magic-guard.com/screen-protector-antireflex.html
I measured the screen exactly and ordered 2 sets, one exactly what I measured and the second with 1mm smaller just to be on the safe side in case the first one does not fit for some reason. They take custom size measurements and they laser cut it to your specifications.
It cuts the rainbow effect of the reflections, the fingerprints are no longer a problem, yes it still gathers fingerprints but are not that visible. It cuts down a bit on clarity if you look at it really close, it's nothing bad, but that was to be expected since the screen protector has a grainy texture. I don't really notice any clarity issues because the unit it's at an arm length from my face at all times
39. The glare on these units with clear glass on a car environment are absolutely horrible, any solution?
Yes! look above at question 38. Indeed the fixed unit position, depending on the car of course, mine is pretty up on the dashboard and pointed a bit up so the light from the side windows reflects pretty badly. I cannot use it without an anti-reflex screen protector to cut down the glare.
40. I installed Poweramp, I have the Custom Keys mod installed and working alright with other apps but it does not work with Poweramp to start the music on engine start. Is there a solution?
Yes! In the launcher.sh I added this :
# Poweramp
poweramp="com.maxmpz.audioplayer/.PlayerUIActivity"
poweramp_press=$play
and at "97)" you have to replace the simple "$play" with "( $poweramp && sleep 2 && $play ) &" in the end it should look like this:
97) # ACC_ON - execute on key on
( $poweramp && sleep 2 && $play ) &
;;
41. I've made the modifications that you mentioned above at 40 but it take some time for the music to play when I start the engine.
Yes, indeed it takes about 15 seconds. I haven't found a solution for that yet. On PlayerPro music player I did not encounter these kind of problems, it was almost instant from the moment the car was on and the app resumed ( not exactly instant mode like 5-6 seconds overall). @dayanandgp mentioned that is the units fault because it insists to scan the USB ports at every unit wake up.
Later edit : I found out after tons of testing (of course it's never fast or easy) that when you have installed the Google app there is that 15 seconds delay at Poweramp start. Once I uninstalled Google app the Poweramp music starts playing 3-4 seconds after the unit wakes up. What's strange is that Deezer is not affected by the Google app presence.... with or without Google app installed it starts playing in 3-4 seconds after the unit wakes up.
42. Poweramp does not work with Viper4Android even if other installed apps seem to work file with Viper.
Go to Settings -> Audio -> Advanced Tweaks -> Direct Volume Control (untick / disable it)
Now it should work fine..
43. are you using a different Google account for the car or the same that you have on your phone.
For a long time I was using my main account but at one point decided to make a new one just for my car because these Chinese units have very poor security and if you value your privacy I recommend to do the same.
44. How do you decide on what model to buy from all the Chinese units?
1. First of all I look for the unit that has the biggest fan club here on XDA Without the xda support, the mods that xda members make these units are pretty poor even if they have good hardware because most of the time the software (out of the box) is so bad that it makes you regret buying it in the first place.
2. Second, EXTREMELY important for me is to make sure the unit has ROOT. Most of the units that I've encountered have poor EQ, (that translates into very poor bass output for my speakers), some have 3 EQ bands, some have 7 or 9 or 10... NO matter how many EQ bands they have I've never seen a good implementation of the EQ... That's why for me Viper4Android is a MUST have piece of software I can tune the sound to my preference and tailor it to my car speakers. Viper4Android needs root to be able to install and run. For me and my car speakers (nothing fancy, but of average quality (or a bit above average) Viper4Android trully made the sound quality good (took it from poor to good).
3. I start to read a lot on the people experiences, gather as much data as I can find and decide if the unit will suits my needs or not.
4. After I gather enough data I make a list of questions to make sure that the unit really fits my needs and that I got all the facts straight (sometimes things change for better or worse depending on the firmwares)
5. it's also a bonus if the unit can be purchased from an European store because in some countries with the import taxes and vat the price can get quite high...
45. Why have you chosen this unit and not a different one ?
1. Mainly for the instant on feature. Got tired of my old unit that took 40 seconds to turn on each time I got into my car. After waiting for 40 seconds had to wait a bit more to start the music app, pick up a playlist of album and press play... then start waze, select the location and set sail. Wasted time around 1-1.30 minutes each time. With the new unit the time the music starts automatically where it left off, the waze starts automatically, I only need to enter the adress and go... wasted time 20 seconds at best.
The moment I turn on my car the last used music app resumes playing where it left off (this works only the @gustden "no kill" mod). Basically in 5 seconds from the car start the music starts playing without me touching the unit. Pure gold !
2. BT tethering - second best feature for me because I stream a lot of music and it's not heavy on the phone battery while I am the road for hours,
3. because it has GLONASS... it helps a lot with the GPS precision in many situations
4. the screen is decent for such a cheap unit. It has decent brightness during daytime and also goes low enough during night time but not as low as I would have liked... I have to use an app to take it further down... wrote about about it.
5. the SOM has the BT/Wi-Fi chip on it so the android has full access to the BT and WI-FI module so I can enable BT tethering something that I haven't seen on other Chinese units.... it's also very important for me. The downside is that is badly implemented in the software out of the box.... of course. A mod made it work (as i said the XDA community is pure gold when it comes to these units) but out of the box the BT tethering is impossible.
6. has good BT and Wi-Fi signal quality... not amazing speed or anything but enough
7. it has 2Gb of ram and 32 gb (24Gb free in fact) storage and a decent CPU. The CPU is just decent, it gets the job done but I could not call it good. The storage is slow when it comes to writing and decent when it comes to reading so rebooting (or booting from shutdown) is a bit on the slow side compared to my old rk3066 dual core at 1.6ghz with 1 gb of ram and 8gb storage. My old unit, using the same apps was booting in 40-45 seconds and this new one (Joying Sofia) is booting in the same amount of time (more of less) but it's a quad with 2gb of ram... I expected a faster booting experience but it is what it is. The upside is that I rarely reboot it or forced to boot up from the shutdown mode.
8. It has hardware buttons and volume knobs - The capacities buttons are not good for car use, you need to take your eyes from the road to look for the buttons you need to press
9. It does not have an CD unit but I am not interested in having one. I haven't touched a CD in the last 3 years and I haven't bought one in the last 6. I stream all my music for convenience. I don't need to handle CD's while driving, searching for an album or song is lightning fast, compiling big playlists is easy.
10. The FM radio implementation software and hardware is decent enough on the Joying unit but rather poor in my opinion so I don't use it. I rather stream an FM radio station over the internet... I get a lot better sound quality.
46. I want to flash JUST the MCU from another firmware without flashing the whole firmware how can I do that
If you want for some reason to flash the MCU only extract these files from an firmware and put in the in the root of a flashcard or usb stick :
AllInOne.bat
SQLSOFIA
STM8_PROJECT cov.s19
STM8UD.BIN
EVEN if you flash the MCU only at the end of the flashing it will wipe the unit also so BE carefully.
47. What If I want to flash the OS part of the firmware but I want to keep my old MCU
If you want for some reason to flash/reflash an firmware without the MCU (because you want to keep the MCU you have) unpack the firmware archive in a folder and delete these 3 files (just the 3, SQLSOFIA is needed for the unit to detect and flash the firmware, it's the flash trigger file)
AllInOne.bat
STM8_PROJECT cov.s19
STM8UD.BIN
48. I can't adjust brightness properly, it's way to bright at night and the "Backlight current adjustment" menu from the Car Settings app is gone
I flashed the 25May firmware the FYT5009 version on a 5009 unit and discovered that It does not have the brightness menu in the Car Settings app so I flashed the 25May FYT6021 version on the 5009 unit, flashed ok and the brightness menu showed up.
Then decided to compare the files (binary) between the firmwares to see what files are different and except the customercfg.txt and rksofiacfg.cfg all the other files are identical between the 2 firmwares.
The rksofiacfg.cfg file has the same size on both firmwares but the content is different.
It ALL comes down to this file when it comes to "Backlight current adjustment" menu being present or not : rksofiacfg.cfg
My advice is to get this file from a previous firmware that you used and where the "Backlight current adjustment" menu was present and working.
49. Is just me or the BT speed is lower with the Android 6 firmwares versus the Android 5 ones?
Indeed for some reason with Android 6 the bluetooth speed droped like 50-60%. Also I find the unit pretty picky with the phones when it comes to Bluetooth speed, I tested with an Huawei and it would never get past 220k DL but with a Samsung gets to 340k...
50. Is there any piece of software for the Joying unit that can make my life easier?
Yes it is. Thank @surfer63 for his nice piece of software!
More info here : https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...s/joying-extra-tools-apk-apk-to-help-t3628200
51. Can I cut the 3 second lag on the launcher.sh somehow? I feel that when I use the custom keys mod there is lag when I use the keys or steering wheel buttons.
@surfer63 gave some pointers here : https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=73023988&postcount=930
Edit the launcher.sh with Notepad++ and add "#!/system/bin/sh" at the beginning of the file
"This makes it slighly faster (approx 1 second) as the system does not have to check first whether "this executable" really is a shell script.
Next to that I removed all unused stuff as it makes the loading of the script slightly faster as well, but that should be in the range of milliseconds and is actually not worth the effort."
52. I want to turn off the screen but not the unit, the brightness bothers me at night.
Press and hold the MUTE button for 2-3 seconds and the screen will go off. Push any button or touch the screen to turn the screen back on.
53a. What cooling solutions do you have for the 5009 and 6021 units given the SoM have different heatsinks (more like heatplates)
Disclaimer : I am just giving some ideas here... just to make sure that your modding is safe talk to someone with extensive experience when it comes to electronics
IF you want to KEEP your warranty, especially when you have 2 years (European buyers) the best and single solution is to mount an 80 or 120 mm fan on the top of the case.
The fan needs to be high quality, silent, low power, low speed, no more then 1200-1800 RPM. Use a FUSE box for the FAN... ask someone with experience in electronics for more details.
You will need to cut a hole for the fan or drill a lot of small holes in the top steel cover for the air to get in... If you cut a single big hole and you are worried about the dust use an magnetic dust filter on top of the unit... you can find plenty of models online for PC cases.
With just a fan (and no additional heatsink glued onto the SoM), depending on your unit placement,the dash configuration, fan speed you might never see impressive low temperatures but at least you will not see the unit getting toasty at 100C. To explain a bit more about the temperature in the dash... some car have the air vents above the headunit and those vents cool the place up when AC is running , some cars have the headunit totally isolated... just a hole in the dash with little to no air getting to the unit so in this scenario the unit will heat up slowly but surely no matter what (in this case an the fan's help will be limited but still better then nothing)
On the 5009 - given the smooth surface, first remove the stickers, clean the surface, then find an aluminium heatsink that has many high fins (help dissipate the heat faster) and it's tall and long enough to NOT cover the SoM holes, use some thermal adhesive and glue it in. Also try not to pick up heatsinks with thick base, it ads up more weight but aren't necessarily more efficient. The CPU is under the "dent" so the dent and the area around it is very important. I guess you could fill up the dent with thermal glue to help with the contact of the new to be mounted heatsink although I did NOT test that.
You could glue in 2 heatsinks if they are the right size and the SoM holes will not be covered.
Example of heatsinks.
1 : https://www.micforg.co.jp/images/c_cs.jpg or this one http://northamericanshores.com/slowblog/good_heatsink.jpg
On the 6021 - given those tiny fins using a thermal adhesive on it it's a bit tricky. The CPU is under that middle flat square spot. You should use enough glue to fill the space between the fins (around the flat spot) to maximize the contact surface between your (new) soon to be mounted heatsink and the SoM heatsink. Be careful that a bigger amount of thermal adhesive will have a longer curing time (also is more liquid).
Use adhesive tape to cover the holes of the SoM heatsink so you don't accidentally get thermal adhesive inside those... and carefully remove the adhesive tape later when thermal adhesive has hardened enough.
About the height :
1. If you have a single DIN unit the heatsink needs to be lower so maybe 2 cm tall.... you need to measure because it depends on the fan position
2. if you have a standard 2DIN unit 3-4 cm would work ok (even 5 cm might be ok but check if you have enough spare room for the fan above)
When it comes to heatsinks the bigger the better... the more surface there is to dissipate the heat the cooler the component will get. I prefer aluminium heatsinks over the copper ones (when we talk about gluing them to the SoM) mostly because of the weight but there are some other issues like corrosion (copper with aluminium).... given the 5009 SoM is soldered to the motherboard the weight of the SoM+heatsink, combined with the car vibrations (more or less, depending on the car brand, engine type, road quality) could stress too much the SoM soldering points and possibly crack/break some in time. I am NOT sure of it, I don't have the means to test that, but just by looking at the soldering points I just don't have enough confidence to recommend an big 200-300 grams heatsinks. The heatsinks I've installed were around 60-120 grams max.
On the 6021 unit giving the socketed type of the SoM (way more solid built than 5009) you could probably install an heavier heatsink, say 200 grams, without worrying so much.... again, I have not test it to be absolute sure that nothing goes wrong in 3-6 years time.
Do NOT cover the SoM ventilation holes. Again, I don't have the expertise to be able to tell what happens if you cover those but I think the holes are there for a reason so let's keep them open.
Use some adhesive tape to cover the holes and remove it after you finished the modding (to prevent the holes to fill up with glue)
These thermal adhesive are good :
Warning : Both linked below are PERMANENT thermal adhesive, once you glued the heatsink on the SoM ... it's there for LIFE
I used this one because it's completly safe, it's not capacitive or conductive.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm
This is better formula for heat transfering but it is slightly capacitive :
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm
Be careful not to drop some by accident on the motherboard.
These 2 adhesives curing time depends a lot on the temperature.... the higher the temperature the faster the curing time is
Fans that I would use:
These 2 are adequate for a 2DIN unit :
Noctua, 80mm, 1200RPM - http://noctua.at/en/products/product-line-redux/nf-r8-redux-1200
Noctua, 120mm, 1200RPM - http://noctua.at/en/products/product-line-redux/nf-s12b-redux-1200
And maybe this ones are good option for some that think that they need more airflow although it will generate a bit more noise:
Noctua, 92mm, 1600RPM - http://noctua.at/en/products/product-line-redux/nf-b9-redux-1600
Noctua, 80mm, 1800RPM - http://noctua.at/en/products/product-line-redux/nf-r8-redux-1800
One thing I don't know is how these fans will behave in very cold weather, in the winter time at -10 to -25C.
I opted for the fans above because the Noctua brand is well known for it's very high quality fans and designs, 6 years warranty, having low RPM is good because they are very quiet although the airflow takes a hit, but I am using the 80mm 1200RPM fan and it's more then enough when you have an heatsink glued onto the SoM.
Remember that in the end no matter what fan size or speed you end up using, it is better to have a fan because every bit of airflow helps so if you don't have the space (in 1 din units) to install an 80mm fan install something that fits your space. Don't forget to install a fuse on the fan... if for some reason the fan breaks and for some reason shorts out... you need a failsafe (fuse).
go to 53b ->
53b. What cooling solutions do you have for the 5009 and 6021 units given the SoM have different heatsinks (more like heatplates)
-> continued
Just some test thoughts : If you want to do some testing with various types of heatsinks because you don't know what to install, cover the motherboard with adhesive tape and leave only the SoM heatsink heatplate clear (to avoid a short in case an heatsink falls down the SoM heatsink over the motherboard. Now cover the SoM holes (to avoid thermal paste gettin in there). Take some thermal paste (NOT thermal adesive) and spread a thin layer on the whole SoM heatsink/heatplate and put the heatsink/heatsinks on it and mount the fan above it. Be carefully with the fan speed because the thermal paste does not offer a lot of stability for the heatsink... so a big fan speed might push the heatsink away from the SoM heatplate. Test for temperatures. Use this app to check for temps https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=info.kfsoft.android.MemoryIndicator it shows the CPU temp (1 core of your choosing) and CPU load (average or per core) at all times in the upper bar (if you configure it)
Use this app to simulate heavy system load to check how is the heatsink coping with the heat : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.into.stability
Decide what do you want to keep. Clean very well the thermal paste from all the heatsinks and SoM heatsink with this http://www.arcticsilver.com/arcticlean.htm
Use permanent thermal adhesive this time to glue in the heatsink of your choice. Take all the adhesive tape out.
In the end is all about testing and taking risks, you don't feel like installing a big heatsink, you can do with small (15x15x15mm) heatsinks as long as you install many, not a single one but also remember that once you decided and you have glued them in and you are not happy with the performance (the risk i was talking about) there is no turning back.... if you don't feel like installing an 120mm fan because you feel like installing an 140mm fan that is laying around for years... install that one if it fits... if it breaks down after a week (risk) take everything out and change it.....just test everything before mounting it in your car and ask people if you want to do electric/electronic modification that you are not sure of.
Also when you drill holes always clean the holes of the metallic debris carefully, because if the debris drops on your motherboard it could short it out.
Later edit : Some people asked me if this mod it's a must and if their unit will fail if they will not mod it. If you ask me it's a must and without the mod the unit will fail and let me explain you why because it depends on a lot of factors. You see the CPU was made to function from -25C to 85C, 85 being the max safe temperature. The CPU on this unit gets easily to 90-100C if you run the unit for 1-2 hours, during a hot summer day, running an music player and a GPS software like Waze for instance (that tends to use a lot of CPU power). If you drive constantly for hours every day, during the day and you live in a hot climate this will shorten the lifespan of the unit by a lot. Not only that the CPU works above it's specifications but all the chips around the CPU (the RAM, storage chips, GPS chip, Wi-Fi, BT) will be force to run very hot because so called heatsink (more like a heatplate) will radiate the heat and slowly cook up everything on the SoM....sooner or later one of the chips will fail.
So if you are the kind of guy that drives 30 minutes in the morning and 30 minutes in the evening while listening to the radio or to some mp3 music, you keep your car always in a garage and you do not live in a hot climate, your unit will have a long life. But if you live in a hot climate and you drive a lot during the day, with music streaming over the internet, GPS software always on, you only park outside in the hot sun that gets the interior of the car frequently to 40-50C.... well, your unit will have a very short life.
54. What apps do you use to monitor the CPU temp?
Right now I am using this one, Resource Monitor Pro, because It shows me the temp (on a core of my choosing) but also the CPU usage (average) the free mem and CPU speed) and you can place all these info in the upper bar, visible at all times.
a. Paid version : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=info.kfsoft.android.MemoryIndicatorPro
b. Free version : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=info.kfsoft.android.MemoryIndicator
I also used this one, CPU Temperature Pure, it's a little more basic, it displays the CPU temp only but you can place it on the status bar, always visible and it looks good.
a. paid version : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.yanyan.cputemppure
b. free version : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.yanyan.cputemp
I also used this one to be able to look at all the CPU cores temps at once :
a. HWMonitor Pro - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cpuid.hwmonitorpro
b. CPU-Z - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cpuid.cpu_z
55. My steering wheel NEXT and PREV buttons functions are reversed. What can I do?
My previous unit an Witson 3066/1Gb ram had an CAN decoder that worked fine for my Ford but the Joying ones work only 85% fine meaning the PREV and NEXT buttons were reversed and that was a pain to use since all my life when I push the NEXT button I expect to hear the next song not the previous one. Although I was struggling to correct the Joying CAN mistake I could not because I did not find any way that I could reflash the CAN box. Joying said that the CAN might not be 100% compatible with my car although it should be.
Even if the old CAN box from my former Witson unit was looking exactly the same and the wire socket was exactly the same as the Joying one, the wiring was completely different, different wiring positioning in the socket, different wire colours. The internals of the CAN boxes looked almost the same but I did not had the courage to test the Witson one on the Joying afraid that I would damage the headunit or more importantly the car...
What I did in the end was to directly connect the resistive buttons of the steering wheel directly to the unit using some of the printed diagrams found in the unit box (bypassing the CAN) and program them via the unit software and let the CAN box to decode the other stuff like putting the car in reverse, turning on the lights, feeding +12V to the unit when I start the car.
What I learned is that CAN box is a black box... if it's not working it's almost impossible to find a fix of any kind... or buy a working replacement...
56. Do you recommend the 1 September Android 6 update?
Short answer, no! Long answer read here : https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=74324433&postcount=338
57. I just got my unit, it has Android 6, what build/release date shall I use in order to have a functional Viper4Android ?
I just tested a bunch of Android 6 firmwares over the last 5 days and these are my results : https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75117890&postcount=412
Unfortunately none is as good as the Android 5 latest firmware ... not even close.
58. My GPS signal is poor. Any ideas?
Things to do :
1. check if GPS cable it's securely attached to the headunit
2. check the GPS antenna positioning and the signal strength - I personally attached directly to the windshield for the maximum signal strength but It's true that it does not look that good
- if the positioning is bad (under the dash for instance) and the signal is weak when you are on the road, open skys all around you, then it will be worse in the city and you might even loose it if you have tall buildings around... if that's the care you really need to reposition the GPS antenna
3. some windshields have a special coating to reduce cabin heat (have a greenish/violet tent when you look from outside) that blocks GPS signals up to 60% in that case you need to find a solution to mount the GPS antenna on the outside of the car OR in same cases there are special areas on the windshield (usually near/around the inside mirror) where are safe to mount the antenna - if that's the case check the car manual for more details of those zones
4. some windshields have heating elements in them, very thin and tiny wiring that heat up the windshields.... those block the GPS signal up to 40% but there are areas where you can mount the GPS antenna on the windshield without issues
5. antenna cable might get broken (inside wiring breaks and usually it's not visible when you visually inspect the cable) if the cable is bent, tensioned or from vibrations (usually on diesel cars where the engine vibrates a lot) - if that's the case buy another from a store that accept returns, it costs 9-12$, install it, if everything works fine then keep it... if not return it and go at step 6
6. open up the HU case and check GPS antenna cable soldering on the SoM, check if the soldering points are ok
7. if you use a custom rom with Xposed check if the GPSSpeedFix module is install and active, disable the GPS module from Xposed and restart the HU, check the behaviour again
8. if nothing works I would suggest reflashing a stock Joying firmware, so far, at this point in time (17/feb/2018) the December firmware worked the best for me... I still haven't tested the January one. Please follow the tutorial I made for flashing/reflashing.
59. My unit looses the GPS signal. Any ideas?
Check the answer for the question no 58 (above)
60. Where can I find/download the stock Joying firmware?
Have a look here : https://www.joyingauto.com/blog/tag/joying-intel-sofia-android-car-stereo-software-update/
Download the firmware based on your unit MCU (you will find it in the settings-> about section) and screen resolution.
When someone bothers to do a job as big as the one you have done here, the least thing is to appreciate the effort made.
Thank you very much @edit
sanangel said:
When someone bothers to do a job as big as the one you have done here, the least thing is to appreciate the effort made.
Thank you very much @edit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
agreed excellent, i just gifted him a month of ad-free XDA
Many, many thanks @CadillacMike for the gift and many thanks @sanangel.
For more then a month I've read everything there is about the units, flashed my HU at least 30 times to test for everything so I figured it's time to post most of all I know about the unit.
@gustden inspired me with it's roll-up thread on android 5... Being a newcomer, with zero knowledge about this unit his thread was pure gold for me back then.
It's work in progress, I have more to write but I figured that I need to post this wall of text so people can use it untill I prepare the rest.
Right now I hit a bump, I can't edit the post anymore... something about a security token error... I wrote to an admin to help me out... I still need to clean the first one a bit.
edit said:
18. Even at the lowest settings the screen is too bright.
Solution 1
1. Enter the Car Settings app
2. Select the lowest tab on the lower right (the one with the screwdriver)
3. Enter code 3368
4. Scroll towards the bottom and you shall see a option named :”Backlight current adjustment”. I have this menu, some said they don’t have it so my guess is that it depends on the model of the unit … can’t say for sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the 5/25 ROM and I don't have the menu It working fine for me on 5/8 ROM. I have contacted joying about it, hopefully they fix it for my unit.
edit said:
4. In this (25 May) firmware of android 6 is the Google Maps voice finally works with the FM Radio app?
Yes!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Google maps works, but it other apps that played previously while on radio do not. Even when added to the navi_app.txt file.
Thank you for this very informative post!
gustden said:
On the 5/25 ROM and I don't have the menu It working fine for me on 5/8 ROM. I have contacted joying about it, hopefully they fix it for my unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am really sorry that it does not show. For me it did not show in the 12May firmware and it took me weeks of emailing every single day trying to to explain in various ways how important is this menu.
In the end they understood what I was talking about and I can see the menu in the 25May update. In fact I was convinced that everyone could see it. The language barrier is a really big issue so you need to have patience. My advice is to show them screenshots of the missing menu (there are some posted by me) and ask them to bring the menu back in the next firmware for your unit. And don't give up until they understand what you want from them. Compared to other Chinese HU brands that I've talked to, the support from Joying is actually quite decent.
gustden said:
Google maps works, but it other apps that played previously while on radio do not. Even when added to the navi_app.txt file.!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Owww... that's an real issue. I only use, iGo, Here we GO, Waze and Google Maps... and in the last 2 years since I began to use Waze I rarely use the others. I keep iGo and Here only as backup when I am out of the net coverage.
gustden said:
Thank you for this very informative post!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for all the help that you given us all this time !
Really appreciate the write up! Does anyone have the issue when recieving a phone call while running Google Maps and the half screen bluetooth dialer comes up and all the caller can hear is a horrible distortion static sound? I can hear the caller but all they can hear is this terrible noise? I closed Google Maps and when the full screen bluetooth dialer comes up the call is fine.
Tervinder said:
Really appreciate the write up! Does anyone have the issue when recieving a phone call while running Google Maps and the half screen bluetooth dialer comes up and all the caller can hear is a horrible distortion static sound? I can hear the caller but all they can hear is this terrible noise? I closed Google Maps and when the full screen bluetooth dialer comes up the call is fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds like mic/cable interference to me. It a hardware problem. If you are using the external mic, from my testing (unit tested on my desk at home) the mic cable is not shielded at all and picks up really easy all the interference that the unit gives out and the one you are talking to on the phone hears all these strange sounds that the mic cable pics up.
1. first test mic cable is ok, test that is plugged in correctly, make a Google + voice call again, if the sound is bad go to step 2
2. unplug the mic, the one near the screen will take over, do the test again ? is it better? I bet it's better
3. if it's better you need an mic with good shielded cable
4. if the call test it's not better and the sound is same bad quality that means that you have an hardware issue related to the internals, mic, flat cables.
5. you can either have a look in side and check if all the flat cables inside the headunit and properly inserted
6. or you can send the unit for warranty repairs
Thanks that all sounds like good steps if the Mic was always like that. However it worked fine prior to Android 6 update. And still works fine, it only causes interference when the bluetooth dialer overlaps with Google Maps.
Tervinder said:
Thanks that all sounds like good steps if the Mic was always like that. However it worked fine prior to Android 6 update. And still works fine, it only causes interference when the bluetooth dialer overlaps with Google Maps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am curious if with the internal mic you encounter the same problem...
Have you wiped the unit after the update?
You updated from what version to what version?
Is there any way to disable the external mic without just unplugging it? As it is currently installed in my truck and would be tedious to remove.
Yes I wiped the unit after the May 25 update, but did not wipe it prior to the update. Possibly the issue?
I went from May 12 to May 25 update recently, but I'm not sure when the interference started. I know 100% it worked on the last newest 5.1 update.
Can someone confirm that the radio skins are working?
Dooing all those steps and i can see in cmd that it should work but when i reboot i still have the original radio app.
Thank you and greetings
Eureka!! I figured it out. I ended up factory resetting, reflashing, and then resetting again. However the problem of terrible noise with Bluetooth Calls during Google Maps still persisted. I was quite disheartened, I also noticed if I hit the home button during the call the call quality would return to normal. So I knew it was something to do with Google Maps. My last ditch effort was to go into the Google app and disable "Ok Google Detection in Google Maps" and VOILA I tested a call during the same scenario and no weird interference! So if anyone else has this issue, just do as stated. Finally, I think my head unit is near back to where I want it.
Cheers Thanks again for all the Q/As it helped greatly!
edit said:
That sounds like mic/cable interference to me. It a hardware problem. If you are using the external mic, from my testing (unit tested on my desk at home) the mic cable is not shielded at all and picks up really easy all the interference that the unit gives out and the one you are talking to on the phone hears all these strange sounds that the mic cable pics up.
1. first test mic cable is ok, test that is plugged in correctly, make a Google + voice call again, if the sound is bad go to step 2
2. unplug the mic, the one near the screen will take over, do the test again ? is it better? I bet it's better
3. if it's better you need an mic with good shielded cable
4. if the call test it's not better and the sound is same bad quality that means that you have an hardware issue related to the internals, mic, flat cables.
5. you can either have a look in side and check if all the flat cables inside the headunit and properly inserted
6. or you can send the unit for warranty repairs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tervinder said:
Eureka!! I figured it out. I ended up factory resetting, reflashing, and then resetting again. However the problem of terrible noise with Bluetooth Calls during Google Maps still persisted. I was quite disheartened, I also noticed if I hit the home button during the call the call quality would return to normal. So I knew it was something to do with Google Maps. My last ditch effort was to go into the Google app and disable "Ok Google Detection in Google Maps" and VOILA I tested a call during the same scenario and no weird interference! So if anyone else has this issue, just do as stated. Finally, I think my head unit is near back to where I want it.
Cheers Thanks again for all the Q/As it helped greatly!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for returning with a solution to your problem.
Tried to recreate your issue on my unit but I could't. (paired phone, google maps, google app installed, calling my phone while google apps running)
Do you have Google Assistant (velvet.apk) installed by any chance?
No I dont have Google Assistant (velvet.apk) installed. Just have the latest v6.3 nokill w/ gvs installed. My unit is JY-UL135N2.
Just noticed my bluetooth connection sometimes drops after ahwile on my phone, and I have to reconnect. Almost thought I was all fixed, damn.
edit said:
Thank you for returning with a solution to your problem.
Tried to recreate your issue on my unit but I could't. (paired phone, google maps, google app installed, calling my phone while google apps running)
Do you have Google Assistant (velvet.apk) installed by any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
unable to control volume
followed your guide for installing viper4android. i cant control the sound (radio) with the volume wheel. It is just set to a certain level and whenever i start the HU i can barely hear the sound till it jumps to the fixed audio level. anyone exp the same issue?
tommal said:
followed your guide for installing viper4android. i cant control the sound (radio) with the volume wheel. It is just set to a certain level and whenever i start the HU i can barely hear the sound till it jumps to the fixed audio level. anyone exp the same issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a weird issue. Are you sure it started after you installed Viper? What unit and android version do you have?
I've installed Viper on 2 unit models, Joying with the 5009 SOM and with the 6021 SOM. Both units has volume wheel not the crappy touch volume bar. I've never had any issues.
Viper4Android working perfect on my device.
It is just wow what this does with the sound...
Greetings
Headunit: JY-UM128N2
Hey xda-Community!
I recently wanted to reduce my idle drain and searched for ways to edit Android Doze settings, because I remembered seeing a tutorial that said you can change deviceidle-constants, that dictate how Doze works (how fast it kicks in, how long it kicks in, light/deep doze).
I tried all those old tutorials, but I quickly realized the old ways to change the parameters are deprecated, so I asked people on android.stackexchange.com and someone actually gave me the answer (thanks Andrew) (https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/247680/is-device-idle-constants-deprecated-in-android-12).
This works from Android 12 on and is achieved using a shell.
Commands:
Note: When using an adb shell, you have to put "adb shell" before those commands. I'll just put the bare commands here, you add what you have to add.
Checking the settings:
You can check your current Doze settings (and statistics) with "dumpsys deviceidle".
Changing a setting;
Every parameter has to be set individually. It's not that bad tho, as you only have to do this once.
Syntax is: "device_config put device_idle [KEY] [VALUE]".
One example: "device_config put device_idle light_after_inactive_to 30000"
You can check "dumpsys deviceidle" to see what keys there even are. To help you out, here's an explanation of what each key actually sets. You can also get a visual sense of how the light mode and the deep mode work (not my work, thanks to easz from github).
Spoiler: My recommended settings
First; reset parameters with: "device_config reset trusted_defaults device_idle"
light_after_inactive_to 30000
light_pre_idle_to 120000
light_idle_to 300000
light_idle_factor 2
light_max_idle_to 900000
light_idle_maintenance_min_budget 30000
light_idle_maintenance_max_budget 180000
inactive_to 900000
sensing_to 0
locating_to 0
motion_inactive_to 0
idle_after_inactive_to 900000
idle_pending_to 60000
max_idle_pending_to 120000
idle_pending_factor 2
idle_to 900000
max_idle_to 21600000
idle_factor 2
wait_for_unlock true
I also wrote a windows batch script (works via adb, you have to rename the .txt file to .bat) and a bash file that changes the parameters to my recommendations. See attachments.
will these settings persists even after a reboot? or upgrading rom?
maxs8007 said:
will these settings persists even after a reboot? or upgrading rom?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, these will stick after a reboot. Not sure about upgrading, but I would guess that it'll stay, because we don't actually modify anything on the system partition
@Doomkopf for me those settings won't stick.
For testing purpose I just applied those yesterday morning:
adb shell device_config put device_idle motion_inactive_to 300000
adb shell device_config put device_idle light_after_inactive_to 180000
This morning they are back to stock values. Any ideas? :S
Utini said:
@Doomkopf for me those settings won't stick.
For testing purpose I just applied those yesterday morning:
adb shell device_config put device_idle motion_inactive_to 300000
adb shell device_config put device_idle light_after_inactive_to 180000
This morning they are back to stock values. Any ideas? :S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I set mine like 6 weeks ago, it's still set. I miss many information, what phone do you use, what ROM, how you check if it's still set etc
Doomkopf said:
I set mine like 6 weeks ago, it's still set. I miss many information, what phone do you use, what ROM, how you check if it's still set etc
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, oh well here are some more infos:
Pixel 6 Pro
Latest Android 13 Stock ROM
Kirisakura Kernel
I check via "adb shell dumpsys deviceidle".
I set it all your settings on friday and today (monday) there are back to stock values.
Previously I tried settings my own settings on wednesday morning and had stock values on the next day already as well :S
Utini said:
Hi, oh well here are some more infos:
Pixel 6 Pro
Latest Android 13 Stock ROM
Kirisakura Kernel
I check via "adb shell dumpsys deviceidle".
I set it all your settings on friday and today (monday) there are back to stock values.
Previously I tried settings my own settings on wednesday morning and had stock values on the next day already as well :S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That doesn't sound good I'd check right after setting it, so you can see if it was changed at all (which I assume). If it indeed gets set and unset again, you could check this github repo (https://github.com/easz/doze-tweak) at "Caveat".
Those values got reset in the past already, but as it didn't happen to me, I thought Google stopped doing that. Maybe that old workaround still works Otherwise, you'll have to flash a custom rom I guess xD
EDIT: I also recommend looking at values easy to distinguish. For example, "sensing_to" and "locating_to" were nonzero before, now they are zero (for me), so these values are easy to compare for me. The values you need to look at are at the most upper part of the output, but I guess you already knew that
Doomkopf said:
That doesn't sound good
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever mess with any other settings using device_config before? Like the number phantom processes, empty or cached processes, ActivityManager tweaks or anything else? Because I assume you did (and using Android 10 or higher) and disabled the settings sync back to the defauls.
Did you ever use the below command?
device_config set_sync_disabled_for_tests persistent
What does the below commands says?
device_config is_sync_disabled_for_tests
Perhaps it says true? If yes that's why your settings aren't changing.
crok.bic said:
Did you ever mess with any other settings using device_config before? Like the number phantom processes, empty or cached processes, ActivityManager tweaks or anything else? Because I assume you did (and using Android 10 or higher) and disabled the settings sync back to the defauls.
Did you ever use the below command?
device_config set_sync_disabled_for_tests persistent
What does the below commands says?
device_config is_sync_disabled_for_tests
Perhaps it says true? If yes that's why your settings aren't changing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You quoted the wrong man
@Utini How'd it work out? If my last response doesn't help, maybe this one helps u
Doomkopf said:
You quoted the wrong man
@Utini How'd it work out? If my last response doesn't help, maybe this one helps u
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, logically I quoted the correct man Just wanted to indirectly tell others about the above trick / setting
Doomkopf said:
Hey xda-Community!
I recently wanted to reduce my idle drain and searched for ways to edit Android Doze settings, because I remembered seeing a tutorial that said you can change deviceidle-constants, that dictate how Doze works (how fast it kicks in, how long it kicks in, light/deep doze).
I tried all those old tutorials, but I quickly realized the old ways to change the parameters are deprecated, so I asked people on android.stackexchange.com and someone actually gave me the answer (thanks Andrew) (https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/247680/is-device-idle-constants-deprecated-in-android-12).
This works from Android 12 on and is achieved using a shell.
Commands:
Note: When using an adb shell, you have to put "adb shell" before those commands. I'll just put the bare commands here, you add what you have to add.
Checking the settings:
You can check your current Doze settings (and statistics) with "dumpsys deviceidle".
Changing a setting;
Every parameter has to be set individually. It's not that bad tho, as you only have to do this once.
Syntax is: "device_config put device_idle [KEY] [VALUE]".
One example: "device_config put device_idle light_after_inactive_to 30000"
You can check "dumpsys deviceidle" to see what keys there even are. To help you out, here's an explanation of what each key actually sets. You can also get a visual sense of how the light mode and the deep mode work (not my work, thanks to easz from github).
Spoiler: My recommended settings
First; reset parameters with: "device_config reset trusted_defaults device_idle"
light_after_inactive_to 30000
light_pre_idle_to 120000
light_idle_to 300000
light_idle_factor 2
light_max_idle_to 900000
light_idle_maintenance_min_budget 30000
light_idle_maintenance_max_budget 180000
inactive_to 900000
sensing_to 0
locating_to 0
motion_inactive_to 0
idle_after_inactive_to 900000
idle_pending_to 60000
max_idle_pending_to 120000
idle_pending_factor 2
idle_to 900000
max_idle_to 21600000
idle_factor 2
wait_for_unlock true
I also wrote a windows batch script (works via adb, you have to rename the .txt file to .bat) and a bash file that changes the parameters to my recommendations. See attachments.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, currently I am using Naptime by Franco with ADB permissions. I'm not sure, but it should work by using the following options (maybe not only these, but I don't know well if there are other places where Doze options are stored):
inactive_to=2592000000,
motion_inactive_to=2592000000,
light_after_inactive_to=0,
light_pre_idle_to=30000,
light_max_idle_to=86400000,
light_idle_to=43200000,
light_idle_maintenance_max_budget=30000,
light_idle_maintenance_min_budget=10000,
min_time_to_alarm=60000,
min_light_maintenance_time=10000,
wait_for_unlock=0,
quick_doze_delay_to=86400000
It's working very well (I get 2% drain in 8 hours of sleep), but I wanted to try and improve it further, because the App tells you when and how much Doze is enforced and when maintenances are performed.
In my case, from my understanding, I don't need maintanances so often, or maybe I don't need it at all, because all the apps of which I need notifications are in non-optimized battery mode.
For reference, during night it performs 4-6 maintenances circa.
Coming to the point, I wanted to ask you I can use you settings even if they have further options like:
sensing_to 0
locating_to 0
and if I can make your settings even more extreme on some values.
For further reference, I have disabled through adb the "motion_engine", any system gesture and I have the Location always disabled (through UI shortcut, not ADB or advanced options).
NovaProspekt70 said:
Hi, currently I am using Naptime by Franco with ADB permissions. I'm not sure, but it should work by using the following options (maybe not only these, but I don't know well if there are other places where Doze options are stored):
inactive_to=2592000000,
motion_inactive_to=2592000000,
light_after_inactive_to=0,
light_pre_idle_to=30000,
light_max_idle_to=86400000,
light_idle_to=43200000,
light_idle_maintenance_max_budget=30000,
light_idle_maintenance_min_budget=10000,
min_time_to_alarm=60000,
min_light_maintenance_time=10000,
wait_for_unlock=0,
quick_doze_delay_to=86400000
It's working very well (I get 2% drain in 8 hours of sleep), but I wanted to try and improve it further, because the App tells you when and how much Doze is enforced and when maintenances are performed.
In my case, from my understanding, I don't need maintanances so often, or maybe I don't need it at all, because all the apps of which I need notifications are in non-optimized battery mode.
For reference, during night it performs 4-6 maintenances circa.
Coming to the point, I wanted to ask you I can use you settings even if they have further options like:
sensing_to 0
locating_to 0
and if I can make your settings even more extreme on some values.
For further reference, I have disabled through adb the "motion_engine", any system gesture and I have the Location always disabled (through UI shortcut, not ADB or advanced options).
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Hey; please don't quote the whole post, it doesn't really tell me anything
I don't really understand: What do you want to know from me/what is your question? ^^
Yes, you can make some values more extreme, but you said you already did (less maintenance, more idle)
Doomkopf said:
Hey; please don't quote the whole post, it doesn't really tell me anything
I don't really understand: What do you want to know from me/what is your question? ^^
Yes, you can make some values more extreme, but you said you already did (less maintenance, more idle)
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Hey, I'm really sorry, I'm new on XDA.
I wanted to know why you have some options valued that I don't, like for example:
light_idle_factor 2
sensing_to 0
locating_to 0
and if using them might improve even more my doze.
Also, even if I have Naptime installed, which already improved things by a lot, I wanted to know if some of my values could be improved further to avoid useless maintenances (like I said I have between 4 and 6 maintenances during night, but I barely need 1).
NovaProspekt70 said:
Hey, I'm really sorry, I'm new on XDA.
I wanted to know why you have some options valued that I don't, like for example:
light_idle_factor 2
sensing_to 0
locating_to 0
and if using them might improve even more my doze.
Also, even if I have Naptime installed, which already improved things by a lot, I wanted to know if some of my values could be improved further to avoid useless maintenances (like I said I have between 4 and 6 maintenances during night, but I barely need 1).
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Click to collapse
Doomkopf said:
You can check "dumpsys deviceidle" to see what keys there even are. To help you out, here's an explanation of what each key actually sets. You can also get a visual sense of how the light mode and the deep mode work (not my work, thanks to easz from github).
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I linked a xda post that explains every value in detail (first link in second quote/my post);
locating_to and sensing_to: By the pictures (also in second quote/my post), you can see how deep doze works; before going into IDLE mode of deep doze, it goes through a sensing phase (motion detection starts) and locating phasing. Default behavior of doze is to not go sleep when you move the device. This skips this phase (time for detecting motion with sensor is 0). Same with locating; when android notices that you move the device (train, car, ...) via gps (or wifi triangulation, etc) it doesn't go to sleep. This also skips that phase
light_idle_factor 2: This multiplies light_idle_to with 2 everytime if goes thorugh a idle/maintenance cycle until it reaches light_max_idle_to. So this basically doubles your light idle time every cycle until it reaches a max duration (which you can set, I also did in my recommended settings)
In that overview you could also think about how to tweak your values so you get less maintenances during night, as you wanted. Basically you have to make both (deep and light) idle_to's longer. I recommend to increase light idle_to first (more light idle, less maintenance), before going too deep on deep sleep - sometimes your phone needs to do backups at night, etc. Dont be afraid to set a "too large" maintenance window, your phone won't suddenly start to draw much power for nothing. You just have a few seconds/minutes less deep sleep (which is ok, little percentage). Give it something like 2 minutes per night, if you're afraid a backup will take longer, you can even go for 3-4 minutes per night.
Doomkopf said:
I linked a xda post that explains every value in detail (first link in second quote/my post);
locating_to and sensing_to: By the pictures (also in second quote/my post), you can see how deep doze works; before going into IDLE mode of deep doze, it goes through a sensing phase (motion detection starts) and locating phasing. Default behavior of doze is to not go sleep when you move the device. This skips this phase (time for detecting motion with sensor is 0). Same with locating; when android notices that you move the device (train, car, ...) via gps (or wifi triangulation, etc) it doesn't go to sleep. This also skips that phase
light_idle_factor 2: This multiplies light_idle_to with 2 everytime if goes thorugh a idle/maintenance cycle until it reaches light_max_idle_to. So this basically doubles your light idle time every cycle until it reaches a max duration (which you can set, I also did in my recommended settings)
In that overview you could also think about how to tweak your values so you get less maintenances during night, as you wanted. Basically you have to make both (deep and light) idle_to's longer. I recommend to increase light idle_to first (more light idle, less maintenance), before going too deep on deep sleep - sometimes your phone needs to do backups at night, etc. Dont be afraid to set a "too large" maintenance window, your phone won't suddenly start to draw much power for nothing. You just have a few seconds/minutes less deep sleep (which is ok, little percentage). Give it something like 2 minutes per night, if you're afraid a backup will take longer, you can even go for 3-4 minutes per night.
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Thank you very much, very helpuful!!
Based on your information, I think I understand better how Naptime works. It increases the parameters of Light Doze making them similar to those of Deep Doze, and also increases the duration.
Wouldnt it be easier to just create a routine or mode ?
Like when I am around my work place I have set it to turn wifi off so it dont keep scanning for wifi and stuff.
I personally feel with Samsung most things can be controlled within their phone and developer settings and not to mention their add on apps like Good Guardian and Good lock.
tfn said:
Wouldnt it be easier to just create a routine or mode ?
Like when I am around my work place I have set it to turn wifi off so it dont keep scanning for wifi and stuff.
I personally feel with Samsung most things can be controlled within their phone and developer settings and not to mention their add on apps like Good Guardian and Good lock.
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I do use Samsung Routines to Enable Offline Mode and Battery Saving at night, which along with Naptime gives me 2% used battery in 8 hours over night, but during the day I can't find a good usage for it.
tfn said:
Wouldnt it be easier to just create a routine or mode ?
Like when I am around my work place I have set it to turn wifi off so it dont keep scanning for wifi and stuff.
I personally feel with Samsung most things can be controlled within their phone and developer settings and not to mention their add on apps like Good Guardian and Good lock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know what it would be easier as; this method?
This basically just configures doze to better fit your needs. It already had values in it before and it was activated before. You can (and should) do all this and still create a routine or mode additionally.
Doze is android's main internal battery saving feature, so tweaking it goes a long way.