Hi,
The connector on the motherboard that has the flex cable which goes to the smaller board down of the battery is partly snapped off. (imgur.com/BnYn0OZ left side) This also means my screen is disconnected... When pressing on the connector it will still work but when not pressed the screen is just blank. Can I fix this without buying a new motherboard, which is expensive as ****, or am I screwed?
Thanks in advance!
teunko123 said:
Hi,
The connector on the motherboard that has the flex cable which goes to the smaller board down of the battery is partly snapped off. (imgur.com/BnYn0OZ left side) This also means my screen is disconnected... When pressing on the connector it will still work but when not pressed the screen is just blank. Can I fix this without buying a new motherboard, which is expensive as ****, or am I screwed?
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can stick something (like little plastic sheets) at the back of that cable, so it is always pushed against back cover.
I fixed a similar problem in my old Canon point and shot digital camera this way
hevangel said:
You can stick something (like little plastic sheets) at the back of that cable, so it is always pushed against back cover.
I fixed a similar problem in my old Canon point and shot digital camera this way
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much!! It works again!
Related
I took my TF700 apart last night as the digitizer was not working following a drop and assumed that a cable had come loose.
Anyway, made a mistake while doing it.
I could not disconnect the cables between the LCD and digitizer and the connectors.
I since realise that there is a small white bar that you flip up. I presume I have "broken" the connectors or something as the tablet works fine when plugged into HDMI, but I cannot use the digitizer and the screen does not come on.
Any suggestions? Most that I have found have suggested "throw away and buy again as spares too much", but wondered if anyone had a bright idea.
I have found why the digitizer was not working, there is corrosion over the SD card and around the top connector to the digitizer nearest the SD card slot. It looks like mositure/drip got into the slot and may have shorted something? I have cleaned off the surface debris as much as can.
Anyway this would not impact the LCD which still displayed (until connector concern.)
Following that, is anyone getting rid of their TF700 and would be interested in selling it at a sensible price?
Thanks
If you didn't pull that white bar off or break it, it could possibly be that you have not properly inserted the ribbon cable and fastened the connector. I would open it again and check this before I did anything else.
Most of them work like this:
Open it by pulling at each end of the white bar until it moves foward a little, then gently lift it to about 45 degeres and the cable slides out with a slight tug. Putting the cable back in is the reverse. That bar has to be loose and at about 45 degrees to get the cable back inside the connector. Make sure the end of the cable is in straight and close the connector. Cable should be tight and not come out if you gently tug it.
The OP here may be willing to sell a likely brick:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2769818
flhthemi said:
If you didn't pull that white bar off or break it, it could possibly be that you have not properly inserted the ribbon cable and fastened the connector. I would open it again and check this before I did anything else.
Most of them work like this:
Open it by pulling at each end of the white bar until it moves foward a little, then gently lift it to about 45 degeres and the cable slides out with a slight tug. Putting the cable back in is the reverse. That bar has to be loose and at about 45 degrees to get the cable back inside the connector. Make sure the end of the cable is in straight and close the connector. Cable should be tight and not come out if you gently tug it.
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Click to collapse
Thank you for the suggestions, I have tried that, but none of the 3 connectors (2 for digitizer, 1 for LCD) respond. I connected it to the HDMI, but cannot see the screen respondin to my finger (maybe that is broken also ha ha)
Is it more likely the connector, or cable is broken? I suspect connector pins to be honest. Abit small for me to see though.
Digitizer or Ribbon Cable or ZIF socket ??? How to tell ???
dilfred said:
Thank you for the suggestions, I have tried that, but none of the 3 connectors (2 for digitizer, 1 for LCD) respond. I connected it to the HDMI, but cannot see the screen respondin to my finger (maybe that is broken also ha ha)
Is it more likely the connector, or cable is broken? I suspect connector pins to be honest. Abit small for me to see though.
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Click to collapse
Greetings!
Just curious how this problem worked out? I too have a TF700 with a working screen but no digitizer. Some time back during my first battery replacement (another story) I tried (we ARE a curious species you know) to open the ZIF socket for the digitizer cable (has twin, gold ribbons) and accidentally flipped the wrong side... needless to say it did NOT flip open. The black plastic top of the socket broke off exposing a little of the ribbon. Everything still worked fine so I counted myself lucky and closed her up and all was good.
Unfortunately I'm never willing to leave sleeping dogs alone and I attempted to replace the 2nd dud battery with yet another one (don't ever trust those "Brand New" eBay batteries)! This time I must have accidentally pulled on a ribbon cable a bit too much. When I closed up the tablet I ended up with a tablet just like yours... everything works great... just not with my finger! I opened it up AGAIN... to replace the original battery... you never can tell you know... while I was in there I tried reseating the digitizer cables (both sockets)... no luck.
So... now what... I'm hearing that some folks had their digitizers fail after about a year anyway... mine is two years old... so my digitizer COULD have just failed... or it COULD have been my messing with the ribbons and/or ZIF connectors. How to tell ??? Is there ANYTHING one can do short of ordering a replacement ZIF socket PC board ($25 eBay) and / or ribbon? With a two year old device I'm reluctant to spend much on repair... ASUS wanted $184 to fix it... and buying an eBay digitizer or ZIF board on the blind chance that one or the other is the problem seems a bit risky.... to say nothing about the chance of mucking up the heat separation of the LCD/digitizer! What's a digital explorer to do???
The only thing I was unable to determine was where does the forked golden digitizer ribbon cable GO on the glass end. Does THAT end ever come loose? How does it attach to the digitizer? Anything I could "fix" on that end?
Hi guys. This is gonna sound awkward. I'm having issues in my personal life and I was talking on whatsapp with brother when I got angry and threw my nexus. the screen is broken like colors and stuff and lines so I tries to turn the phone off by touching where the power off button appears on screen butI couldn't.
since I was angry I removed the back cover and cut the golden wire at the bottom point where it turn. I've tried turning it on by holding the cut ends but no luck. tried charger too but nope. All I wanna do is get into recovery somehow (TWRP) and dump my internal storage.
Thank you.
After some thought about your description.... I wonder if you have actually cut the main ribbon cable from the microphone/speakers/USB assembly this is the one that runs down the side of your phone. your best bet will be to purchase another cable assembly.. since you are dealing with a multi conductor ribbon cable.
I really doubt that you will be able to repair and re-connect the cable without some pretty highly skilled soldering ability.
The battery cable is very short and comes directly out of the battery itself... it is not likely that you actually cut it but did cut the main circuit cable. Too Bad, but this will be a real problem for a repair.
no joy... but you might want to investigate a reputable repair shop.
paultbear said:
After some thought about your description.... I wonder if you have actually cut the main ribbon cable from the microphone/speakers/USB assembly this is the one that runs down the side of your phone. your best bet will be to purchase another cable assembly.. since you are dealing with a multi conductor ribbon cable.
I really doubt that you will be able to repair and re-connect the cable without some pretty highly skilled soldering ability.
The battery cable is very short and comes directly out of the battery itself... it is not likely that you actually cut it but did cut the main circuit cable. Too Bad, but this will be a real problem for a repair.
no joy... but you might want to investigate a reputable repair shop.
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Click to collapse
Thanks so much for replying. Yes indeed I cut the ribbon cable. I'm in no position of buying a new one. I guess I'm gonna take it to someone with high soldering skill. Before that I'm gonna try tape too
Xami said:
Thanks so much for replying. Yes indeed I cut the ribbon cable. I'm in no position of buying a new one. I guess I'm gonna take it to someone with high soldering skill. Before that I'm gonna try tape too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Question: if this ribbon isn't battery wire then why the phone doesn't start
main connection cable ( do NOT cut)
Xami said:
Question: if this ribbon isn't battery wire then why the phone doesn't start
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Click to collapse
That ribbon cable is the one that interconnects the working boards in your phone, Microphone, Speakers, buttons. Unlike the battery cable you probably won't be able to fix it... it is pretty much a replacement only part.
this part is called -- LG Nexus 5 D820 D821 Charging Port Flex Cable Dock Connector USB Port With Mic Microphone Flex Cable Repair Part (amazon.com)
you will have to source a supplier close to you... but the good news is that it is relatively inexpensive... Ebay has it listed for $10USD or so.
not trying to be the bearer of bad tidings... but I've spent 20 odd years repairing computers and associated devices. It is always best if you don't cut ribbon cables.
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
tjmethod said:
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the same issue, and yesterday I just unplugged and replugged the battery connector which solved my issue.
But I believe this is temporarly and that I would do a better repair if I do solder.
Thanks for providing pictures.
Ya unfortunately the wire connectors inside the white plastic connector aren't making a tight pinch on the terminals and there is no way to close the distance without getting the white connector out of the way. You could remove the white plastic connector and pinch each one on with needle nose pliers but you might as well solder them on if you go that far. This is why people are having problems replacement tablets- its faulty battery connectors…
luffy092 said:
I got the same issue, and yesterday I just unplugged and replugged the battery connector which solved my issue.
But I believe this is temporarly and that I would do a better repair if I do solder.
Thanks for providing pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tjmethod said:
Ya unfortunately the wire connectors inside the white plastic connector aren't making a tight pinch on the terminals and there is no way to close the distance without getting the white connector out of the way. You could remove the white plastic connector and pinch each one on with needle nose pliers but you might as well solder them on if you go that far. This is why people are having problems replacement tablets- its faulty battery connectors…
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Click to collapse
The battery connector with 6 wires only a minor source of flickering screen. You don't need to cut and solder it to the male connector.
The loose connector can be fixed by pushing the opening tip closer like this
Samsung fix it by adding the silver conductive glue like this
The major problem is from the male connector soldered to the mainboard. From my professional experiences, 90 % from cracked male connector ( black with 6 pins and soldered to mainboard ) , only 10% causing by loose female battery connector ( white with 6 wires ) : Samsung just simply use a conductive glue.
Trust me, I have fixed not a few but hundreds of them with this problem.
Great pictures! Well it looks like I am one of the lucky ones- glad I was able to even solder those wires on to the male connector terminals. I did check them- they were solid- I wouldn't have been able to have done it without the Carson LED Magnavisor- its got 4 different interchangeable power lenses. I dont think my tip would have been small enough to heat up the solder on the male connector termials- but I totally believe you most are cracked- glad I havent had a problem since. I have like 5 note tablets and the xe7000t1a windows slate in fact almost everything I own is Samsung including the 17" i7 chronos notebook I'm typing this on. So do you do this sort of thing in the line of business?
Beut said:
The battery connector with 6 wires only a minor source of flickering screen. You don't need to cut and solder it to the male connector.
The loose connector can be fixed by pushing the opening tip closer like this
Samsung fix it by adding the silver conductive glue like this
The major problem is from the male connector soldered to the mainboard. From my professional experiences, 90 % from cracked male connector ( black with 6 pins and soldered to mainboard ) , only 10% causing by loose female battery connector ( white with 6 wires ) : Samsung just simply use a conductive glue.
Trust me, I have fixed not a few but hundreds of them with this problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tjmethod said:
Great pictures! Well it looks like I am one of the lucky ones- glad I was able to even solder those wires on to the male connector terminals. I did check them- they were solid- I wouldn't have been able to have done it without the Carson LED Magnavisor- its got 4 different interchangeable power lenses. I dont think my tip would have been small enough to heat up the solder on the male connector termials- but I totally believe you most are cracked- glad I havent had a problem since. I have like 5 note tablets and the xe7000t1a windows slate in fact almost everything I own is Samsung including the 17" i7 chronos notebook I'm typing this on. So do you do this sort of thing in the line of business?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to work at Samsung Repair Center, fixed more than thousands of them
That wouldnt be Intelisol in Fort Worth Tx?
QUOTE=Beut;65498191]I used to work at Samsung Repair Center, fixed more than thousands of them[/QUOTE]
tjmethod said:
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself
I would check all posts/ threads/ responses from 'Beut'- he's a former samsumg repairman who's repaired thousands of these
[QQUOTE=chumvi;65509217]I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself[/QUOTE]
chumvi said:
I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Videos won't help if you don't have experiences in soldering. There are many components close to these six pins, without experience and proper solder tip you will cause solder bridges on mainboard. I need a 10x microscope to see clearly what I am doing. You should bring it to a professional , they won't charge much for a 5 to 10 minute re work.
This is the original battery connector with hairline cracks
Then a re soldered battery connector which has more solders added to secure the connections
An experienced tech will routine re work on these two battery connectors first, even the screen is not flickering, because sooner or later it will come back with this problem.
Hi guys,
I didn't want to post in an old thread, but I'm still having trouble with my Note. I took it to a "Pro" to solder the connectors down because the whole thing came off the board somehow. The "Pro" was pretty useless. He left solder all over the place and the tablet was shorting when I picked it up. So I took it back and the photo shows what I ended up with after 4 attempts at fixing the flickering. At this point I've decided to dump the "Pro" and solder the wires directly to the circuit pads. Only one problem - Solder will not stick to the pads no matter what I do. I've tried heating the pads with the iron before applying the solder but it wont stick. I've cleaned the site with alcohol and took off the sticky residue left by the "Pro".
Can anyone see an issue in the photo which might be causing the problem?
Thanks for the help.
---------- Post added at 01:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 AM ----------
Hi guys,
I didn't want to post in an old thread, but I'm still having trouble with my Note. I took it to a "Pro" to solder the connectors down because the whole thing came off the board somehow. The "Pro" was pretty useless. He left solder all over the place and the tablet was shorting when I picked it up. So I took it back and the photo shows what I ended up with after 4 attempts at fixing the flickering. At this point I've decided to dump the "Pro" and solder the wires directly to the circuit pads. Only one problem - Solder will not stick to the pads no matter what I do. I've tried heating the pads with the iron before applying the solder but it wont stick. I've cleaned the site with alcohol and took off the sticky residue left by the "Pro".
Can anyone see an issue in the photo which might be causing the problem?
Thanks for the help.
Hi from Spain, i not see the flickering on use, but whem was power off and i chargue apears a flash every 3 or 4 seconds... All time¿Can be the same problem?
Thanks
(Sorry if this is the wrong subforum)
I just replaced my battery and I've noticed my front facing camera isn't working. I've tried re-flashing and it's still not working.
Any ideas on how to fix this? Let me know if I can provide any extra information.
Try connecting the cable of front camera again.it must've been slipped out while you were replacing.
Mr.Ak said:
Try connecting the cable of front camera again.it must've been slipped out while you were replacing.
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Click to collapse
Which cable is it? It looks to me like the cable for the front camera connects on the back side of the motherboard, which I didn't touch at all in the process of replacing the battery.
TomTuff said:
Which cable is it? It looks to me like the cable for the front camera connects on the back side of the motherboard, which I didn't touch at all in the process of replacing the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes,it may've been slipped out in the process unwantedly,try reconnecting.
So, I broke my screen and did the repair myself. Everything went well, except during reassembly I discovered that when I popped the antenna wire off the socket, I pulled the socket off the motherboard. I was able to solve this issue by soldering the bare antenna wire end to what remained of the socket...which was s tiny strip of copper where the socket used to be. After getting the wire to stick, I finished reassembly and everything work.... almost.
I discovered my auto-brightness is not working, along with screen shutoff when I bring the phone to my ear. I'm guessing I didn't plug a ribbon in correctly or fully. Can anyone give me any more detail on this sensor and how it connects to the motherboard? I can go back in, but I don't want to do it until I'm clear as to what I'm doing.
The phone is still usable though.... oh, one additional note. The screens available for around $50 are not of the same build quality as the OEM screen. They scratch allot easier. Probably not gorrilla glass III.
tonyzoc said:
I discovered my auto-brightness is not working, along with screen shutoff when I bring the phone to my ear. I'm guessing I didn't plug a ribbon in correctly or fully. Can anyone give me any more detail on this sensor and how it connects to the motherboard? I can go back in, but I don't want to do it until I'm clear as to what I'm doing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might have disconnected or forgotten to reconnect the proximity sensor to the motherboard. Provided your replacement unit even comes with one. If not, you may need to do some additional hacking.
EDIT: looks something like this
robogo1982 said:
You might have disconnected or forgotten to reconnect the proximity sensor to the motherboard. Provided your replacement unit even comes with one. If not, you may need to do some additional hacking.
EDIT: looks something like this
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Click to collapse
Thanks!. I know that part and I might have not plugged it in fully. Also, there is a metal plate that sits over it, and I discovered I forgot to put that plate on after I had it all put back together. I'm going to go back in and check and replace that plate. I'm a little hesitant to go back in because during the screen replacement I broke the wire antenna socket off the motherboard when I popped the connector. I literally had to solder the antenna wire to the tiny copper strip left in the antenna socket hole. It worked as I have good wifi and mobile data, but it's extremely fragile and I don't think I'll get a 2nd chance if I break that wire off.