Hi,
As you can see im pretty new to the polaris and i have been seeking a few answer for a few hours and can't seem to find an answer to a few of them,
So i hope some of you might be able to answer these for me.
1) I would only like to use internet through WIFI, so to prevent a huge phone bill i would like to disable gprs (this is the only internet option next to wifi right?)
I tried an application called NoData but it crashes on startup.
2) These are spb shell related: With spb 3 my phone doesn't go into standby (the screen turns off to save battery) also my scroll bars don't function anymore (this doesn't really bother me though)
3) Speed and memory, will using less memory speed up my device? As i see it memory will only reduce performance when it really low (usually i am at 50% usage)
Thanks allot for reading.
1) Advanced Config from here http://www.touchxperience.com/en/advanced-configuration-tool/downloads.html
Go to menu => more settings => connections Then disable the ones you dont want (all in your case)
2) No idea whats going on there sorry
3) Less memory used will mean faster. The main thing that slows it down is background applications running (using memory and cpu). So if you dont need something open then shut it. Thats pretty much it.
Hope its helpful!
menu => more settings => connections is empty does that mean i safe from huge bills?
The thing with my memory i have nothing running and i am at 50% so i was thinking of possibly switching to a light rom if that would matter (I just like the tools full comes with)
Thanks for your answers!
http://www.modaco.com/content/pocket-pc-software/246171/new-free-utility-nodata/
See above link. The tiny program "No Data" does what you seek.
Scalee said:
1) I would only like to use internet through WIFI, so to prevent a huge phone bill i would like to disable gprs (this is the only internet option next to wifi right?)
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Click to collapse
Hmmm... there could be a bit of problem... I'm connecting trough all types of connection: EDGE, GPRS, HSDPA, WiFi...
Altough, I'm not sure does EDGE connection work if you don't have data plan...
andbertina said:
http://www.modaco.com/content/pocket-pc-software/246171/new-free-utility-nodata/
See above link. The tiny program "No Data" does what you seek.
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Click to collapse
If you read my post, you would see i tried No Data but it crashes when i start it Nullrefence exception.
Maybe i could just ask this, i like the idea of footprint when i start it asks if it can use google location service.
Now from working with this i know that google can either query using CellID (which is free) or using the internet well i don't really want to use internet for every footprint or every weather update that is not wifi you see
If there are no connections then i would say that you cannot connect to whatever mobile internet point. If you dont mind having a small charge try it once and see then you can be sure that it will not have an unwanted connection.
On the front of light vs full probably a little difference but really there wont be huge differences i think.
@Bodisson yeh edge will still work without a data plan but it will eat your money for breakfast
chris10230 said:
If there are no connections then i would say that you cannot connect to whatever mobile internet point. If you dont mind having a small charge try it once and see then you can be sure that it will not have an unwanted connection.
On the front of light vs full probably a little difference but really there wont be huge differences i think.
@Bodisson yeh edge will still work without a data plan but it will eat your money for breakfast
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Click to collapse
You where right, i tried to weather update nothing, i tried footprints and then to connect to googlemaps it crashed.
Guess im safe
Hi!
So I'm new to Android (not so much XDA...left WM after a few years).
I switched to Verizon from AT&T right before VZ dropped the unlimited data and secured a Droid Charge based off some of the rave reviews from Engadget among others.
I've installed Humble 1.4 and it seems to be working great (Thanks!). I have run into a couple questions that I was hoping to get some conclusive answers to.
With regards to Data Tethering I use tethering about once or twice a month and not for a lot of data so I feel less inclined to pay $30/mos for something I'll hardly use. However, for those occasional occasions I installed android-wifi-tether and it seems to work, but I saw a comment indicating that VZ could track the unauthorized usage through that app- how is that possible? What is the best tethering app I could/should be using? (I'm good with any connection, wifi/bluetooth/usb)
Now for my biggest point of pain- the battery- I've read through the various guides, and tried bump charging (extensively)- tried the simpler methods with wiping stats via CWM etc, and at most I seem to get about 10-12hrs of minimal usage...I haven't been able to tell conclusively are there truly 'defective' batteries, or just miscalibrated ones? I don't want to make a futile attempt at calibrating this if it'll never work right. Since I'm new to Android is there anything I could be missing in general that's being blatantly assumed in all the battery discussion threads? I've tried Juice Defender, but it's been spotty for me with re-enabling mobile data which is frustrating in its own right.
Finally- are there any 'must have' or cool apps out there? What are your favorites? Also- what would you recommend for the following areas: Speech-to-txt for text/e-mail etc; profile automation (e.g. when at gps location 'x' turn off mobile data, turn on wifi etc)
Thanks!
Edvard_Greig said:
With regards to Data Tethering I use tethering about once or twice a month and not for a lot of data so I feel less inclined to pay $30/mos for something I'll hardly use. However, for those occasional occasions I installed android-wifi-tether and it seems to work, but I saw a comment indicating that VZ could track the unauthorized usage through that app- how is that possible? What is the best tethering app I could/should be using? (I'm good with any connection, wifi/bluetooth/usb)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They can do it by analyzing the traffic going through their network. There are a variety of hints that the traffic is coming from a PC instead of phone, in addition to more obvious things like requests hitting Apple or Microsoft Update (our Android phones won't need to update iTunes or Windows 7 ).
Edvard_Greig said:
Now for my biggest point of pain- the battery- I've read through the various guides, and tried bump charging (extensively)- tried the simpler methods with wiping stats via CWM etc, and at most I seem to get about 10-12hrs of minimal usage...I haven't been able to tell conclusively are there truly 'defective' batteries, or just miscalibrated ones? I don't want to make a futile attempt at calibrating this if it'll never work right. Since I'm new to Android is there anything I could be missing in general that's being blatantly assumed in all the battery discussion threads? I've tried Juice Defender, but it's been spotty for me with re-enabling mobile data which is frustrating in its own right.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not totally hopeless, but ultimately if you have LTE on with this first generation of phones the battery life won't be the best. It has a tendency to wander on and off of it in my case (especially 3 bars and lower), there are two radios running drawing power and the re/connection process is the most power-hungry thing they can do. Disabling LTE with one of the apps or digging into wireless settings is the number one way to get more out of the battery.
Edvard_Greig said:
Finally- are there any 'must have' or cool apps out there? What are your favorites? Also- what would you recommend for the following areas: Speech-to-txt for text/e-mail etc; profile automation (e.g. when at gps location 'x' turn off mobile data, turn on wifi etc)
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For speech I don't know of anything better than the Google service already there (maybe Vlingo?). I don't know if anything exists for that automation though, it'd be helpful for me too though - got a promotion and my new desk has horrible signal.
If you plan on getting into ROMs you can't go wrong with Titanium Backup, restoring apps quickly with data intact is absolutely wonderful as even if the ROM doesn't require they tend to always run fastest when data is wiped when you install. Alternative SMS apps and Launchers can add a lot to the experience (I like GO SMS and GO Launcher or LauncherPro).
Danrarbc said:
I don't know if anything exists for that automation though, it'd be helpful for me too though - got a promotion and my new desk has horrible signal.
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Finally found the apps I was thinking of...take a look at the following (still haven't decided which I like best)
Locale
Tasker
Setting Profiles
Timeriffic
Smarter Profiles
Tasker appears to be one of the most powerful, but a bit complex to setup and use...it's basically guided scripting from what I can tell....Locale looks pretty simple to use, but can get pricey. Haven't played enough with the others.
So the S3 has known WiFi issues, but mine seems to have none of the issues I've read about thus far. It does have one irritating thing that has been driving me crazy for the longest time. If I ever move outside of the range of my network, reboot, or etc such that the WiFi has to be reestablished, it will decide that my network is "out of range" even though the signal is well within an acceptable minimum (it's a tad bit weak, but, once established it holds extremely steady pretty much no matter what I'm doing.) If I remove and re-add the network settings it works perfectly, again with a stable signal and perfect speeds until the next time I move out of range or reboot.
For now I've reenabled SSID broadcast, but I really liked the idea of having it off as it's a ridiculously simple yet strikingly effective security mechanism (I like the "security through obscurity" methods when I can -- especially since I'm having to use the old WEP encryption protocol to support some older devices, though I'm just about ready just to give up on them at this point. Even the best hacker in the world couldn't get into my network if (s)he never actually made any attempt to do so in the first place.) With SSID enabled, it has no troubles picking up my network every time, it just won't automatically pick it up without it.
Is this just an issue with the software itself or something? Anything that can be fixed from the user side, or is it something that can only be fixed by an update to the OS or related software itself? (But then with 4.1 coming soon supposedly I'm kind of hoping that if it is an issue with the software that would fix it. Still, that's a while away at least and this is assuming their plans aren't messed up with this whole lawsuit business causing them so many problems right now.)
If you have SSID broadcast disabled, how do you expect your phone to recognize the network? I can see how it would work if you enable SSID, connect to your network then disable it again, but it's not going magically reconnect with SSID disabled, its not logical seeing your SSID is what makes it possible for your phone to find your network.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
Wep sucks ofcourse but how about just setting up a mac addy auth to give another layer of security and enable ur ssid
Sent from my SCH-I535
I do use MAC address filtering if that's what you mean. While it might stop a script kiddie, I don't have a huge amount of confidence in it. MAC address spoofing is so pitifully easy than with computer equipment at least you usually are even presented with a configuration option that lets you specifically change the MAC address to anything you want. I'm definitely sticking with it because, well, there's absolutely no reason not to, but I actually have less confidence in MAC address filtering to stop anyone than disabled SSID broadcasting because anyone actually actively trying to break in should pretty much immediately bypass that particular mechanism right off.
Shibby87 said:
If you have SSID broadcast disabled, how do you expect your phone to recognize the network? I can see how it would work if you enable SSID, connect to your network then disable it again, but it's not going magically reconnect with SSID disabled, its not logical seeing your SSID is what makes it possible for your phone to find your network.
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Click to collapse
ALL other devices are smart enough to search for a manually configured network if they actually know the SSID to search for. My Roku, my Android 2.2 "Internet Tablet" (basically a PDA) by Archos, my Nintendo DS (this is the main thing holding me back at WEP, and as ancient and pitiful as its networking is, even IT can connect on its own without making me manually recreate the settings every time!) and my EeePC running Windows XP without any software to manage the WiFi settings except the built-in Windows thing.
Nazo said:
So the S3 has known WiFi issues, but mine seems to have none of the issues I've read about thus far. It does have one irritating thing that has been driving me crazy for the longest time. If I ever move outside of the range of my network, reboot, or etc such that the WiFi has to be reestablished, it will decide that my network is "out of range" even though the signal is well within an acceptable minimum (it's a tad bit weak, but, once established it holds extremely steady pretty much no matter what I'm doing.) If I remove and re-add the network settings it works perfectly, again with a stable signal and perfect speeds until the next time I move out of range or reboot.
For now I've reenabled SSID broadcast, but I really liked the idea of having it off as it's a ridiculously simple yet strikingly effective security mechanism (I like the "security through obscurity" methods when I can -- especially since I'm having to use the old WEP encryption protocol to support some older devices, though I'm just about ready just to give up on them at this point. Even the best hacker in the world couldn't get into my network if (s)he never actually made any attempt to do so in the first place.) With SSID enabled, it has no troubles picking up my network every time, it just won't automatically pick it up without it.
Is this just an issue with the software itself or something? Anything that can be fixed from the user side, or is it something that can only be fixed by an update to the OS or related software itself? (But then with 4.1 coming soon supposedly I'm kind of hoping that if it is an issue with the software that would fix it. Still, that's a while away at least and this is assuming their plans aren't messed up with this whole lawsuit business causing them so many problems right now.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hidden ssid enabler will solve this problem. it works great for me. follow the directions in comments of play store though.
You know, I do believe that did actually solve the problem. I guess more testing is needed, but in my initial test it seems to have worked just fine with the SSID broadcast set to hidden again (I even rebooted the router and phone both just to be sure the settings fully took.)
It still strikes me as being a bit dumb that my ancient Nintendo DS that can't even handle WPA can handle a non-broadcast SSID and my previous Android PDA could as well, yet this Android phone couldn't out of the box...
OK, so I know M7 isn't the latest CM build, but it's the latest one without issues with GPS, so that's what I'm on since I use GPS a lot.
So last week I replaced my home router. This of course means reconfiguring all the wifi devices around the house, including my wifi thermostat. The unique thing about the thermostat is that to configure it, you connect a laptop/phone/tablet to the thermostat's ad-hoc wifi network, tell it which infrastructure ssid to connect to, verify a pin from the thermostat's screen (so nobody can hijack your t-stat from outside the house), and that's it.
thing is, when you use Cyanogenmod (at least on the relay) to connect to an adhoc network, it breaks wifi. what happens is you can't connect to any other wifi networks, and can't even scan to see available networks till you reboot. sometimes it doesn't work even after a reboot. strangely, the tethering/hotspot still works fine. you just can't connect the phone to a hotspot whether it's at home or work or anywhere.
i'd been having other issues and general slowness with the phone, so i decided to backup a few apps with TiBu and do a factory reset. that worked... till i tried connecting to the thermostat again, and it broke wifi completely this time.
solution? go to /data/misc/wifi/ and rename wpa_supplicant.conf to wpa_supplicant.conf.old (or whatever, as long as it's a different name) and reboot. the system will automatically create a new conf file. boom - wifi fixed.
obviously this requires root, but that's not an issue in CM. I doubt it matters, but i used ES file explorer since it's got a good root filesystem browser and mounting / or system as RW is a simple matter of a checkbox in the settings.
when i compared the newly created wpa_supplicant.conf with the one i'd renamed (.old) the only real difference i could see was the saved networks at the bottom. so you might be able to get away with simply deleting the offending network={ blah blah } section instead of completely renaming the conf file. the advantage here would be if you have a bunch of saved networks that you don't want to get rid of, it will keep those saved networks. the conf file is a plaintext file so it's easy enough to understand what you're looking at, and modify appropriately.
MODS: I apologize if this is in the wrong forum. I figured since it probably only applies to CM, I should post it in the dev forum rather than the general one. If it needs to be moved, I don't be offended.
Gibson99 said:
OK, so I know M7 isn't the latest CM build, but it's the latest one without issues with GPS, so that's what I'm on since I use GPS a lot.
So last week I replaced my home router. This of course means reconfiguring all the wifi devices around the house, including my wifi thermostat. The unique thing about the thermostat is that to configure it, you connect a laptop/phone/tablet to the thermostat's ad-hoc wifi network, tell it which infrastructure ssid to connect to, verify a pin from the thermostat's screen (so nobody can hijack your t-stat from outside the house), and that's it.
thing is, when you use Cyanogenmod (at least on the relay) to connect to an adhoc network, it breaks wifi. what happens is you can't connect to any other wifi networks, and can't even scan to see available networks till you reboot. sometimes it doesn't work even after a reboot. strangely, the tethering/hotspot still works fine. you just can't connect the phone to a hotspot whether it's at home or work or anywhere.
i'd been having other issues and general slowness with the phone, so i decided to backup a few apps with TiBu and do a factory reset. that worked... till i tried connecting to the thermostat again, and it broke wifi completely this time.
solution? go to /data/misc/wifi/ and rename wpa_supplicant.conf to wpa_supplicant.conf.old (or whatever, as long as it's a different name) and reboot. the system will automatically create a new conf file. boom - wifi fixed.
obviously this requires root, but that's not an issue in CM. I doubt it matters, but i used ES file explorer since it's got a good root filesystem browser and mounting / or system as RW is a simple matter of a checkbox in the settings.
when i compared the newly created wpa_supplicant.conf with the one i'd renamed (.old) the only real difference i could see was the saved networks at the bottom. so you might be able to get away with simply deleting the offending network={ blah blah } section instead of completely renaming the conf file. the advantage here would be if you have a bunch of saved networks that you don't want to get rid of, it will keep those saved networks. the conf file is a plaintext file so it's easy enough to understand what you're looking at, and modify appropriately.
MODS: I apologize if this is in the wrong forum. I figured since it probably only applies to CM, I should post it in the dev forum rather than the general one. If it needs to be moved, I don't be offended.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does belong in q&a...but my lollipop validus has working gps
REV3NT3CH said:
It does belong in q&a...but my lollipop validus has working gps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As does FatToad. However, I do know that the privacy bit in the GPS can be flipped with the drivers we're using in FT. There's an old thread with a post from nard about how to fix that.
Magamo said:
As does FatToad. However, I do know that the privacy bit in the GPS can be flipped with the drivers we're using in FT. There's an old thread with a post from nard about how to fix that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you understand more about this "privacy bit", what call in the API flips it, or can give me any other pointers about it? The poster previous to you indicates that GPS works with M7. I thought I had it working with M8, but can't really guarantee that, any more. The post from nard was quite an onerous process, including what looked like reflashing the baseband.
It seems to me that if we really understood this problem, the fix would be quite simple, and could be done by a root-access app. I've done more digging, and see that it seems to be common to many models of Samsung Galaxy phones, and some of the fixes involve doing potentially horrible things to the NVRAM. (like clearing it completely - what could possibly go wrong?)
It seems that the GPS is done in the baseband processor, along with the other radio stuff, but so far I haven't been able to find it. The transceiver chip is just a transceiver, no baseband processor. It looks like the baseband processor might be on the Snapdragon main processor chip, though they don't enumerate it well. In addition they mention a "gpsOne engine" without describing exactly what it is.
I'm still relatively ignorant about Android, a year after getting one. (not enough time) I'm better versed on hardware, but this problem seems to be in the cracks between.
Come to think of it, a simple question... Is there documentation on the communications between Android and the baseband processor?
Gibson99 said:
OK, so I know M7 isn't the latest CM build, but it's the latest one without issues with GPS, so that's what I'm on since I use GPS a lot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just took my wife's phone outside and tested it. GPS works on M8 from last summer, as does wifi. AFAIK the only thing that doesn't work on M8 is the video camera. (Stills on the camera work.)
This was an older phone than mine, purchased after mine. With mine I didn't need the radio or bootloader updates, my wife's did. I bought the phone for her, used it briefly with my PureTalkUSA SIM card to make sure it was really unlocked. Then I put CM11 on it.
phred14 said:
I just took my wife's phone outside and tested it. GPS works on M8 from last summer, as does wifi. AFAIK the only thing that doesn't work on M8 is the video camera. (Stills on the camera work.)
This was an older phone than mine, purchased after mine. With mine I didn't need the radio or bootloader updates, my wife's did. I bought the phone for her, used it briefly with my PureTalkUSA SIM card to make sure it was really unlocked. Then I put CM11 on it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no idea how old mine actually is; i bought it "like new" from a tmobile reseller here in town and i actually use tmobile for service.
right now i'm on fattoad and once i stepped down my paranoia (i turned on privacy guard for everything including all system apps. hint: don't do that ) it seems good so far. nova launcher has an issue with flickering or disappearing icons, and everything is huge (i need to adjust the dpi) but so far no issues with gps or wifi (though i havent needed to connect to an adhoc network yet).
Do be careful with Privacy Guard. I didn't mention, but although Privacy Guard out of the box tends to make it so that most system apps are unable to be tuned, TeamApexQ likes the option of being able to tune everything in that regard, so we removed the safeguard. (For example, when PG was first ported to CM12, you could tune the settings of the 'Settings' app. Then at our next internal testing build, it was suddenly coming up empty, because CM made a change to exclude tuning for it. We restored full capability because we liked it. But that does mean you can more easily 'shoot yourself in the foot'.
Magamo said:
Do be careful with Privacy Guard. I didn't mention, but although Privacy Guard out of the box tends to make it so that most system apps are unable to be tuned, TeamApexQ likes the option of being able to tune everything in that regard, so we removed the safeguard. (For example, when PG was first ported to CM12, you could tune the settings of the 'Settings' app. Then at our next internal testing build, it was suddenly coming up empty, because CM made a change to exclude tuning for it. We restored full capability because we liked it. But that does mean you can more easily 'shoot yourself in the foot'.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've recently begun to wonder if Privacy Guard might be partially responsible for reduced battery life. I'm under the impression that it lies to apps, providing false information when they have insufficient authority for the real information. Some of those permissions in Privacy Guard are to turn radios on and off. If an app thinks it's turned a radio on, and is trying to communicate based on faked (Really, it's going to look like a failure, at this point.) returns, it may spend more time continuing to try instead of just staying asleep. My battery life comes an goes, but I've noticed that on a "bad day" there are quite a few wakeups in the middle of nowhen, when the phone was sitting there in airplane mode with all radios off.
Of course I may be all wet on this - radio control may be one area where it can say, "You're in Airplane Mode, no program can turn the radio on."
good theory, and like you said, it depends on the app and how pg implements each block.
personally i'm having great battery life in L. i have a 5000mah battery, but usually by this point in the day i'm at about 60%. right now i'm still at 83%. i like how it projects your estimated remaining battery time. first time i looked at the battery chart, i lol'd - it was projecting 4.5 days before it died. i can probably get 2 no sweat even with regular usage, but i'd have to turn off sync and really cut back to make it 4 days.
I've had very good results with some simple rules with Privacy Guard. Generally the only thing I've turned off is the ability for Google Play Services and the Google App (Google Now) to wake up my device and to keep it awake. With those turned off, my battery life has gotten to be pretty damned nice... Though it makes Google Play Services FC once maybe every 24 hours. It restarts just fine, no harm no foul.
My battery life seems to be "bimodal". It either barely makes it 24 hours - basically needs recharging every night, or it lasts on the order of three or four days on a charge.
It seems to be somehow wifi-related, if I were guessing, and in an odd way. If wifi is largely off, but occasionally on, the battery life seems shorter. After wifi has been left off for "a while" (quantity not yet determined) it seems to go into long-battery-life mode. If I keep wifi largely on, and occasionally off (basically between known/trusted wifi places) the battery life comes out somewhere in between, consistent with wifi itself taking some power.
It's been really tough to detect any sort of pattern, but this is the best I've been able to come up with so far. I haven't done rigorous testing, or at least attempts at rigor so far have yielded inconsistent results. I've looked at what the Settings->Battery has available for power diagnostics, and one thing I noted was a lot of spurious wakeups when all radios were turned off. That's what led me to tentatively finger Privacy Guard.
I just saw the setting to show "built-in" apps on PG. I see two different entries for google.services and google.services.framework. The former has scads of wakeups - thanks for the tip. The latter has many, but a much smaller number. Did you block wakeups for both? I presume "built-in" are also "system" that others have said shouldn't be bulk-denied in PG. Are there guidelines anywhere about which are OK, which are useful, etc? (Like this case, and perhaps battery life.)
phred14 said:
My battery life seems to be "bimodal". It either barely makes it 24 hours - basically needs recharging every night, or it lasts on the order of three or four days on a charge.
It seems to be somehow wifi-related, if I were guessing, and in an odd way. If wifi is largely off, but occasionally on, the battery life seems shorter. After wifi has been left off for "a while" (quantity not yet determined) it seems to go into long-battery-life mode. If I keep wifi largely on, and occasionally off (basically between known/trusted wifi places) the battery life comes out somewhere in between, consistent with wifi itself taking some power.
It's been really tough to detect any sort of pattern, but this is the best I've been able to come up with so far. I haven't done rigorous testing, or at least attempts at rigor so far have yielded inconsistent results. I've looked at what the Settings->Battery has available for power diagnostics, and one thing I noted was a lot of spurious wakeups when all radios were turned off. That's what led me to tentatively finger Privacy Guard.
I just saw the setting to show "built-in" apps on PG. I see two different entries for google.services and google.services.framework. The former has scads of wakeups - thanks for the tip. The latter has many, but a much smaller number. Did you block wakeups for both? I presume "built-in" are also "system" that others have said shouldn't be bulk-denied in PG. Are there guidelines anywhere about which are OK, which are useful, etc? (Like this case, and perhaps battery life.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's difficult to give tips for this, because everyones' usage is different. Get 'WakeLock Detector' and keep an eye on that when your power drain seems more intense. Disable things that make sense to disable based on that.
I know this isn't really the topic, but just because you get a new router doesn't mean you have to reconfigure everything. Why couldn't you just configure the new router with the SSID and password from the old one?
slartibartfast42 said:
I know this isn't really the topic, but just because you get a new router doesn't mean you have to reconfigure everything. Why couldn't you just configure the new router with the SSID and password from the old one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
believe me, i tried that. it's stupidly tedious to enter a long keyphrase via the remote control on our tivos and only slightly less tedious on the roku (its remote is much more responsive). laptops and phones aren't as bad since they have keyboards. apparently the devices are smart enough to notice a different MAC behind the BSSID. which if you think about it, is actually a GOOD thing in terms of security, since it makes spoofing a little more difficult. granted, you'd also have to know the wpa key to successfully spoof, but it's a simple check to implement for security's sake, and i'm glad they did.
by the way, do you like fjords?
Magamo said:
It's difficult to give tips for this, because everyones' usage is different. Get 'WakeLock Detector' and keep an eye on that when your power drain seems more intense. Disable things that make sense to disable based on that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"Wakelock Detector" has certainly been enlightening. "Google Fit", which makes sense, once you think about it. But the other aspect that was even more important, I just happened to see when one of the other forums popped up on some sort of search result or other.
You have to boot your Android device on battery. If the kernel starts up on charger, it never gets into the deepest power-saving states. When I first started using Wakelock Detector, my phone showed up as being awake something like 97% of the time. Google Fit was the biggest user, but not that big. After seeing that advice I've been careful to boot on battery, and now most of the time is spent asleep. Google Fit still uses wakes as much, but when it's not, the phone is really sleeping. My normal battery life has moved out to two or three days, sometimes into a fourth. As long as I consider Google Fit worth having around, this battery life is good enough for me - there is always a decent window to recharge.
phred14 said:
You have to boot your Android device on battery. If the kernel starts up on charger, it never gets into the deepest power-saving states.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So much for that theory. A day or two back, after good battery life since this post, I noticed it draining faster. Today I looked, and sure enough, it's not going into deep sleep. I tried rebooting with all four states of wifi and cell service, and nothing has gotten deep sleep back. I think I'm going to try charging tonight, booting while charging, then rebooting after disconnecting. It would be good to have an exact and repeatable set of circumstances that cause both good and bad battery life.