Related
Ok - I've got the Desire, and I'm liking it.
I've also got Spotify, and it's excellent.
But Spotify in the car would be amazing.
So, question is, would the above kit be a useful purchase?
This particular Parrot comes in 3 flavours, the bog standrd MKi9000, but there's another two which also have a small screen accompaniement.
Question is, which should I get?
Or should I get something else entirely?
I like the idea of FM transmitters, but pretty much across the board, they are meant to perform poorly. I also don't like the idea of being restricted by having to instal some of them in the cigarette lighter - I'd rather the stero component was hard wired if possible (and easy to fit myself as I'm on a budget).
So, any advice peeps?
I have a parrot SK4000 and it's terrible.
I've got a Parrot Mki9200 and it's great. It's a Parrot device so you have to expect the occasional oddity but I just get in the car and I have bluetooth handsfree and A2DP streaming from my Desire. I'm even contemplating changing my earlier Parrot 3400GPS in another car.
Haven't tried it with Spotify but I can't see why it wouldn't work. Works fine with Google Maps Navigation, although occasionally the A2DP streaming takes a second to kick in which means you miss the very first part of the voice instruction.
Edited to add that you can plug the Desire into the USB connector which both charges it and allows you full onscreen browsing of the media on your Desire. Select songs by album, artist, playlist, folder, etc.
Ian A.
Thing is, do you need the small screen that comes with the 9200, if you only use it with a Desire? I mean, what exactly would you use the screen for, assuming you've already got your Desire on a dashboard mount anyway?
I'm clueless about in car bluetooth connectivity and suchlike, so any advice is great. You can get the mki9000 quite cheap if you look around, but with the screens, you add a fair bit to the cost.
So - any other advice?
I had a MKi9100 Parrot which had to be returned as it had a fault. However, i was really disppointed with the quality of the music, as it uses its own inbuilt amp, not the car stereo amp. Quality suffers as a result.
With the MKI9200, I believe that there is a way to wire the kit, so the music plays through the car stereo, but you then have to have a separate speaker for phone calls, else you won't hear calls when the stereo is off. A good source of info can be found at the Parrot forums.
The benefit of the Parrot gear is that you can integrate it with your stearing wheel controls (if fitted), although you will need the additional control module.
Given my rather unreliable experience of Parrot gear, I'm looking to ditch my present Parrot CK3000 unit in favour of the Bury cc9060 kit. Not only does this kit have A2DP (music via bluetooth) and the ability I believe to route music via the stereo (please check to confirm), but most impressively it has multipoint - the ability to connect 2 bluetooth phones at the same time. A real bonus for those of us with 2 mobiles....
Hope this helps.
Parrot
I have the LS3200 and there is a lot of problems with the Desire sync of contacts from phone
This is exactly the kind of info we need.
I hadn't even heard of Bury kits, so cheers for the heads up...
crazybones said:
With the MKI9200, I believe that there is a way to wire the kit, so the music plays through the car stereo, but you then have to have a separate speaker for phone calls, else you won't hear calls when the stereo is off. A good source of info can be found at the Parrot forums.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Parrot instruction manual is wrong on this. If you have a decent car stereo, you can wire a line-out from the Parrot to the Line-In from the car stereo and use the car hi-fi amp for streaming music. You still connect the speaker bypass which kicks in if you get/make a voice call. I've confirmed this with Parrot tech support.
As for the screen, if you've got (or are getting) the Desire car dock and you only listen to music from the phone, I guess you don't need the screen. However I find that I use the SD card & USB connection to listen to music as well so the screen is pretty essential. The 9200 is only around £20 more than the 9100 so it was a no brainer for me.
However I did look at the Bury devices as well. I do expect the Bury ones are slightly more reliable (although the 9200 is better than expected) but I found them lacking in some features.
Ian A.
ray4438 said:
I have the LS3200 and there is a lot of problems with the Desire sync of contacts from phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've also got a 3400 (same thing but with GPS, not the most reliable of devices!) and the best way is to delete all contacts, re-pair the phone and then send a multi-contact VCF file to the Parrot. You can create a multi-contact VCF from MS Outlook if you have that.
I've managed to get multi-number contacts (so you can do voice dialling with "Call... Alex... Home"), contact pictures and all features working correctly with the Desire. It did take some fiddling though, especially compared to the 9200 which was pretty seemless.
Ian A.
Just got an MKi9200 and installed in my 2008 Civic. I am loving it so far!!
I have paired my Desire which I plan to use for calls and sat-nav using the bluetooth audio feature.
I also plugged in a 32Gb USB stick which I will be using for playing music.
All this works well so far, except for a few little niggles.... I am hoping someone can help
1. When the phone sync's with the Parrot I get a message "File format not supported" which appears, disappears and appears again during the sync. Its possibly contact related (either pictures or the contact themselves) - can anyone advise??
2. When the sat nav (Copilot) gives directions, the sound comes out of the Desire AND the cars speakers. This is fine but the phone sounds up first, then after a 1/2 second delay the same instruction comes through the cars speakers. Any ideas on how to get them to play at the same time or mute the phones instruction but still hear the car speakers?
Any help gratefully received!
Thanks
zippyioa
I use the venturi mini on mine and it works flawlessly the only problem is it does plug into the lighter socket, I did end up buying a 3 way extension plug for the socket though off ebay so it is now mounted elsewhere and i still have 2 spare lighter sockets and a usb charging port on it as well as on the bluetooth car kit.
the kit was about £20 off of ebay of £50 in the shops, phonebook dl all ok even transmits it on the head unit if it has RDS on it.
ray4438 said:
I have the LS3200 and there is a lot of problems with the Desire sync of contacts from phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the exact same model, had the exact same problems but cured it.
I wrote a post about my experiences http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=668042 , but I think the upshot is actually to break all the "links" in your contacts.
My LS3200 works flawlessly now.
advice please
I'd like to get Bluetooth handsfree set up with my Desire in my Toyota Rav4 (2005). Am looking at the following:
1. Brodit active cradle (hardwired to car, avoiding cigarette charger)
2. Parrot BT kit
So, my questions are: which Parrot kit am I best getting (dont want to spend a fortune, but would be nice to stream music from Desire through stereo speakers), & can anyone recommend a company to do the installation professionally in London? (as much as I'd love to do it all myself, probably not a good idea to open up the dashboard etc?)
Its a no brainer to go wth the MKi series, thebosh, but it depends if you want clutter on your dash or keep it clean and minimalistic.
But following the parrot forums loosely, its seems that more and more people are having difficulties with the 9100 and 9200 than the 9000 due to the added screens and with displaying what they wantr and how they want it, especially with software updates, changes to phonebook layouts and intergrations with social feeds etc.
For me, it had to be the 9000 with just the remote, which I mounted on a spring clip and then to a face vent.
I also got a brodit active charger (the one with the hardwired charging lead) for sat nav purposes, so I saw no need for an extra bluetooth screen you have to mount somewhere.
I too am planning to cut the cigar charger plug off and hardwire it, just need to get around to it.
The sound quality from the desire to the parrot 9000/9100/9200 BT is exceptional, and the music bass/treble is well balanced.
As for installation, register on the parrot forums and ask there.
You'll be surprised how many installers are registered for troubleshooting and can give you some sort of price/advice on whos doing it in that area.
I put mine into my 206, and its no sweat.
Thanks for the really helpful advice Touch Graphite. The 9000 seems perfect for my needs.
Had my first quote this week for professional installation - £244 for the lot. No idea if that's any good or not!
Will do as you suggest re. Parrot forum, as it would be awesome if I could do it all myself!
(For info, the quote came from avrmobiles.co.uk, & guy I spoke to warned me to rather go for the Bury 'Music' as he had experienced issues with Android & Parrot devices...)
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Zippy,
There are alot of bugs when it comes to the screened versions of the Mki series, hence my recommendation of the 9000.
I have no such problems with any sort of delay in sat nav commands, music quality or phone sync from my desire.
Only niggle I get is blipping when im canning the music at full chat from my desire on fuller vocal songs,
but using the Mix-zing app, and turning up the buffer size does help.
Keep It Simple.
IPAddis said:
The Parrot instruction manual is wrong on this. If you have a decent car stereo, you can wire a line-out from the Parrot to the Line-In from the car stereo and use the car hi-fi amp for streaming music. You still connect the speaker bypass which kicks in if you get/make a voice call. I've confirmed this with Parrot tech support.
Ian A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
This is exactly the kind of solution I am looking for! I just got my MKI9000 installed and unfortunately the installer routed all 4 speaker output through the cutoff and not through the line-in.
I have a Skoda (part of the VAG family) and I am now trying to cross information so I can come back to the installer and get him to fix the installation (he will learn a thing or two from the infinite internet wisdom )
Any more information you can share on this option?
Moshe
This application is a hotfix for a really annoying (and potentially unsafe!) bug in the Epic4G:
http://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=11372
http://forum.sdx-developers.com/epi...audio-routing-on-epic-4g/msg115990/#msg115990
The long and sort of it is that when anything is plugged into the 3.5mm headphone jack, the phone will only play call audio over that jack.
In order to route the audio through the earpiece, bluetooth or speakerphone, you must pull the plug out of the jack. This is at the very least annoying, and at the very worst potentially dangerous if, for example, you're driving.
How-To
Download the APK attached below for your android version.
Install like any other APK using adb or your favorite file manager.
What it does
This simple application allows you to pick the audio device to use for call audio to override this behavior, and can be changed on the fly.
All in-call audio will be routed to the device you specify when something is plugged into the 3.5mm headphone jack. If nothing is in the jack, the default behavior for the phone applies.
This also allows you to use the Speaker Phone when the headphone jack is occupied, even though the button on the call screen is disabled!
Your configuration should persist between reboots.
What it doesn't do
This app does not route any other type of audio. Your music, notifications, etc will still play over the headphone jack or phone speaker.
Again, this *only* affects in-call voice audio, and only when something is plugged into the headphone jack.
Notes
This app completely overrides the options on the call page! If you want to switch outputs during a call, you will have to do it from this app - your call will not be dropped when changing the output device.
In order to route the call audio properly, the system's mediaserver service must be restarted, however.
This means that any other audio you have playing when you apply the change will be disrupted, and related services may force close. For example, Pandora will skip to the next song. Other applications may not behave that well.
Disclaimer
This app modifies files in the /system partition, so use this at your own risk! I am not responsible for any problems that arise from this hotfix on your device!
This is currently for the EPIC4G *ONLY* - Do not use this on any other device. Please contact me if you have a different phone which experiences this bug and I will see if I can get it working for you as well.
This is *BETA* software, a work in progress, please post here if you experience any issues, but I cannot guarantee it will work for you!
ROM DEVs, feel free to bake this into your roms in whole or part, I encourage it as this provides a workaround for a safety issue, but please give credit if you use or derive from this application.
Special thanks to UberPinguin - his initiative, debugging, code-diving and testing helped make this happen every step of the way!
Many, many thanks to everyone in #samsung-epic for helping me test and work this out.
Be sure to download the APK for the right android version on your phone!
epicBT - v0.3.5 (Froyo)
* Fixed crash/reboot when applying settings in DK17 roms
epicBT - v0.3
* Layout cleanup when root is unavailable
epicBT - v0.2
* Requires root!
* Superuser compatible
* auto-remounts /system RW if necessary
* Sends call audio to wired device ( default ), speaker phone, or bluetooth
Sources
https://github.com/cicada/epicBT
If this works as described above I will be so f-ing happy. One of my biggest gripes, solved.
No sh#t! I was just about to start searching the Market for an app like this! Downloading now to test.
Thank you!
bigdbag said:
If this works as described above I will be so f-ing happy. One of my biggest gripes, solved.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree
updated OP with source link
First of all,...Thank you, Thank you, Thank you for working on this... This was one of my biggest gripes with this phone and I couldn't understand why the "geniuses" at Samsung/Sprint couldn't get this right.
I've done some extensive testing in my car for the Eclair version and wanted to share my results:
For the most part, the app does what it's supposed to...but I did notice that:
1) the "on the fly" feature doesn't work so well. That is, when changing from one mode to the other, I had to reboot the phone to get the new setting to take effect. This feature would be great with an app like Tasker, which could automatically open up the app and ask you which setting you want to use when a headset/aux jack is plugged in,...thus giving you the flexibility to use the best option depending on your situation. Is there a way to tweak the app to recognize the switch without rebooting by resetting something like the mediashare service?
2) For some reason, the mic volume (volume heard on the opposite end of call) on the bluetooth setting is lower when the headset/aux jack is plugged in. I'm not sure whether the regular phone mic, speaker phone mic, or the bluetooth mic is utilized in this setting, but the volume is definitely harder to hear on the other end than when the headset jack is unplugged. I would guess about 20-25% lower. I tested this effect during the call as well by plugging and unplugging the jack while counting 1 to 10 and it's the same. Is there away to increase the sensitivity of the bluetooth mic when the headset jack is plugged in?
Donation coming if you can get this working! Thanks again.
sinman02 said:
1) the "on the fly" feature doesn't work so well. That is, when changing from one mode to the other, I had to reboot the phone to get the new setting to take effect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Strange, it works well for me - it takes a second to switch outputs while mediaserver is restarting, but never had to reboot. I'll look into this, may have accidentally tweaked something in the last build.
UberPinguin and I are still looking at the sources to find a better fix that works the way it's supposed to - the trouble seems to be that Phone.apk is actually selecting the 'correct' source and setting options appropriately, but the underlying OS isn't switching outputs. Restarting mediaserver was the only workaround I could find for this.
sinman02 said:
2) For some reason, the mic volume (volume heard on the opposite end of call) on the bluetooth setting is lower when the headset/aux jack is plugged in. I'm not sure whether the regular phone mic, speaker phone mic, or the bluetooth mic is utilized in this setting, but the volume is definitely harder to hear on the other end than when the headset jack is unplugged. I would guess about 20-25% lower. I tested this effect during the call as well by plugging and unplugging the jack while counting 1 to 10 and it's the same. Is there away to increase the sensitivity of the bluetooth mic when the headset jack is plugged in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hadn't noticed any volume issues but truthfully I haven't been using the BT often because of this bug - I've just been letting my calls go to VM instead of crashing my car Volume selection should be working properly so I'll see if I can add something to select volume as well.
To be clear on the MIC, input should always be the proper input for whichever mode you choose - phone MIC for speakerphone and BT mic for BT HP/HS.
If you're on stock then the phone mic should be used when your wired device doesn't have it's own, however this is broken in all of our custom community kernels - Wired Headset mode should only be used when you actually have a wired headset with a MIC of it's own if you're using one of these, otherwise the phone doesn't enable any MIC at all.
I should note, that all my tests were conducted on outgoing phone calls. I don't know if incoming calls are any different. I am using the Syndicate rom.
If you can get the bluetooth volume issue resolved, I'll likely leave it there, but it would be nice to be able to switch on the fly to speakerphone mode when bluetooth isn't handy.
Question: Does the froyo version have the same implementation?
Please keep up the good work!
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
sinman02 said:
Question: Does the froyo version have the same implementation?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the froyo version is the same - Samsung used a different asound.conf in froyo ( added in some interesting VOIP pcm ), so this is the only difference between versions currently.
cicada said:
This application is a hotfix for a really annoying (and potentially unsafe!) bug in the Epic4G:
The long and sort of it is that when anything is plugged into the 3.5mm headphone jack, the phone will only play call audio over that jack.
In order to route the audio through the earpiece, bluetooth or speakerphone, you must pull the plug out of the jack. This is at the very least annoying, and at the very worst potentially dangerous if, for example, you're driving.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...So this should work on for Sip/VOIP apps like Sipdroid, 3CX, and Fring? I managed to pick up 3CX and Sipdroid through my bluetooth headset but no mic...meaning the other end could not hear me... There aren't that many good sip/voip soft wares out there for the Android today.. I rated Fring the BEST but with no bluetooth support.
EDIT: Nevermind... I read the post again.. I don't think this will do the job other than support for the actual phone.. but it would be nice to have that option for sip/voip as well.
The SIP/VoIP stuff may work better in Froyo considering there are dedicated PCM devices listed in the asound.conf - however I've never used any of these applications, so this is pure speculation.
You're correct, this does only effect in-call phone audio, those applications would be handling (or in this case, not) the bluetooth audio routing directly. I've found lots of other similar quirks with BT on the Epic4G, such as the << and >> buttons on my A2DP headphones not working.
cicada said:
The SIP/VoIP stuff may work better in Froyo considering there are dedicated PCM devices listed in the asound.conf - however I've never used any of these applications, so this is pure speculation.
You're correct, this does only effect in-call phone audio, those applications would be handling (or in this case, not) the bluetooth audio routing directly. I've found lots of other similar quirks with BT on the Epic4G, such as the << and >> buttons on my A2DP headphones not working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am using Froyo the DJ29 Build on the epic... Dare I try?
****ing yea! Thanks, downloading now. This has been my biggest complaint with the phone
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
Hell Yea! You rock! I Threw out a fairly long search sentence in google and actually found your post here. No sooner did I install and set it up that my phone rang while plugged into the car audio and FINALLY I can use my friggin BT headset without yelling hold on hold on I gotta unplug the stereo cable. This has really peeved me off since I got the phone. Now what I don't get is why this obvious flaw has been ignored by Samsung and Sprint. Nice job on making it work like it should. BTW running stock 2.1 with root. No bugs so far.
THANK GOD. someone fixed this. bugged me so much in the car when i'm receiving a call. will report any bugs.
bump, updated to fix crash in DK17 based roms
cicada said:
I hadn't noticed any volume issues but truthfully I haven't been using the BT often because of this bug - I've just been letting my calls go to VM instead of crashing my car Volume selection should be working properly so I'll see if I can add something to select volume as well.
To be clear on the MIC, input should always be the proper input for whichever mode you choose - phone MIC for speakerphone and BT mic for BT HP/HS.
If you're on stock then the phone mic should be used when your wired device doesn't have it's own, however this is broken in all of our custom community kernels - Wired Headset mode should only be used when you actually have a wired headset with a MIC of it's own if you're using one of these, otherwise the phone doesn't enable any MIC at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As others, I'm very grateful for this fix. After trying it out, if it works for me, donation on the way.
Regarding the MIC: My experience, all the way back to pure stock (IIRC) is that there is no MIC at all when a two-channel, stereo plug is inserted (headphones, cassette adapter, etc.). Every time I've been driving, listening to something via the headset jack, when a call comes in I can hear the other party, but they can't hear me at all until I unplug from the jack. So, even though there was no mic plugged in and the device was correctly sending 2-channel audio out through the jack (usually to a cass adapter, so I can listen via my car stereo), but doesn't "do the right thing" with the mic, even though the hardware and drivers are capable of detecting the absence of the mic.
It should, of course, default to the BT mic if there is a BT connection, or the built-in mic otherwise. For some reason this simple flow-diagram logic eludes Samsung.
So I got my first experience with this today...worked great. I was streaming Pandora, phone call came in, music was paused and I answered the call. Once I finished the call, the music continued playing. Minor detail, but since I was on WiFi, is there anyway that the music could have kept on playing while I was still on the call for the sake of my guys who were still working while I was taking the call? It's great that the music paused and resumed by itself, but it would have been cooler to have it keep going while I was on the call.
m5james said:
.. is there anyway that the music could have kept on playing while I was still on the call .. ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately Pandora's phone-state listeners control that, it'd have to be modified or their devs would have to add options for it. Would be cool though, I agree
I've got a hacked version of Pandora that allows unlimited skips, I'll have to ask the guy who did it to see if they can tweak that as well. Come to think of it, it'd be nice to have it keep going for the times I'm driving down the road as well so whoevers in the car doesn't have to sit there and listen to me blah blah blah.
Hello there!
Recently I have encountered a strange issue with the wired headphone stereo balance. The volume on the left side is as expected, but audio on the right channel is all but inaudible. It´s there, but extremely quiet. If I set the volume to maximum, audio on the right ramps up to being listenable (with what would usually be a low to low medium volume setting)...while the left is blazing like crazy, of course.
Using a stereo test MP3 (ping pong sounds, basically), I could verify that the channel seperation is correct, just to rule out that it´s a headphone jack/plug problem (i.e. the plug making no contact with the correct connectors inside the jack). Or, to put it simply, both audio channels do indeed get to the correct side of the headphone, just not enough on the one side.
I have no idea what could have caused this. Stereo balance was definitly working correctly the one time I tried wired headphones on the stock ASUS ROM, way back before I unlocked, rooted and installed custom ROMs. I haven´t tried it since, until a couple of days ago and that´s when I noticed.
Things I´ve tried since then:
- Dozens of different headphones, headsets, adapter cables. All show the same problem.
- Tried to clean out the headphone jack as best as possible.
- I even filed down the tip of one plug a bit to maybe get a better connection, but the connection itself doesn´t seem to be the problem.
- Factory resets, full wipes, different ROMs (stock, CM, CROMi).
- Different audio DSPs.
- A LOT of audio related apps (Volume+, EQs...)
- Audio players with built in balance control. These do indeed shift the stereo image to the right side, but don´t make the right channel itself louder, which results in a very quiet, kinda mono-y, hollow-y sound at normal volume levels.
I am assuming there is a hardware problem, and I assume it´s not the headphone jack itself, but something else in the circuitry.
I really, really, really don´t want to RMA the thing, since it took me *weeks* of discussion with ASUS support to get it unlocked in the first place (wasn´t able to, due to the infamous MAC/server mismatch thingie), and I don´t want to get it back with a new mainboard and perma-locked.
So, my questions are: What else can I try? Is there a way to boost the one faulty audio channel? Maybe by editing some system file or writing a script or something?
I´m unlocked, rooted and running CROMi-X 4.3b4 now (which is going to be great, once it matures, btw).
Thanks!
I'm on 8.1 dp2 in hopes of a fix but it doesn't seem to have helped. My Bluetooth audio skips once every song or two and it's super frustrating while in my car. I've tried disabling WiFi and Bluetooth scanning and adjusting the codec options but nothing seems to work? Anyone else with this issue or a solution? I just received wireless earbuds so I'll test those to make sure it's not my stereo but my s8 had worked fine...
Ok say my new ear buds are Bluetooth 5 and I haven't noticed a single skip yet. My stereo is only 3 so maybe that has something to do with it? As far as I can find however there are no current bt5 stereos so I'm not sure what the issue or solution would be...
Enable the developer options. You can choose between sound quality and connective stability. You can also lower the sampling rate to 44100kHz. In a word, reduce the data transferring rate. I think these might help.
I did all of that and have tried all the options
slyr114 said:
I did all of that and have tried all the options
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had this problem cropping up on various Toyota forums with the root cause being the automotive entertainment systems. It appears that most newer systems are still based on 2008/9 technologies which only have a limited ability to buffer the B/T audio. I'm not suggesting that this is your car but I thought it is worth mentioning.
Ive got a Sony stereo I put in myself haha it's relatively new
Hi there. After two years on a PX5 it's time to get a new HU with a PX6 chipset. My PX5 was without a DSP but the sound was really good after updating the MCU to 3.x.
So I'm looking for this kind of device
https://www.ebay.de/itm/392478816533
This one again has no built in DSP but the price is good. A PX6 with DSP (Dasaita e. g.) is about 100 bucks higher than this. But is it worth the difference?
It's gonna ne installed on a Golf MK6 with Dynaudio.
Thanks
i bought a Xtrons PX5 without DSP module and then bought the DSP chip (my board support to add this chip) and there is a big difference with audio!
Another option is to buy a unit and install the Hal9K ROM on it (it's very easy to do, 5 minute job). It comes pre-packaged with Viper4Android (an android DSP app), which will give 95% of the inbuilt DSP functionality, plus a lot more. Hal9k is free but you need to pay a one-off fee of 10 Euro for ongoing updates. Works out a lot cheaper than the premium for a DSP unit.
I have a Dasaita with DSP, but I don't use any of the DSP functionality, I do everything in Viper instead, and to my ears, it sounds fantastic. But as a disclaimer, I have never compared a unit with DSP to one without, so I have no idea on any quantifiable differences there may be
Then u dont have a advanced car speakers/amplifiers setup. When u have amps and speakers (not factory stuff) u really NEED DSP because of the fact that u need crossover points, gaining, etc for every single speaker/rca output. All fun and stuff viper this and that. But ViperFX app cannot do this, cannot create individual channels all of the sudden. This is something that needs to be hardware built in.
Im waiting on my 2nd android headunit now in 2 month. Because i ordered one (with dsp), turns out it only has some fake ass 13band eq and a front rear shifter, no sub volume/gain control, no filtering. Besides missing allot of audio settings it sounded also like utter sh#t. The voltage out of the RCA are also way to low. So i turned it back.
Now waiting on the one with Dedicated hardware DSP. So i have individual channel audio control, real 32band eq, Filter Cutoff settings per channel (low pass, high pass). My guess is that this unit would work extremely well for my purpose and audio setup (1x 2channel amp front, 1x 2channel amp rear deck, 1x monoblock subwoofers).
Honestly i dont really get it how they cannot include subwoofer volume and hz filtering on a Android Headunit. Those are like basic audio settings in like every 1 din car radio.
AddixNL said:
Then u dont have a advanced car speakers/amplifiers setup. When u have amps and speakers (not factory stuff) u really NEED DSP because of the fact that u need crossover points, gaining, etc for every single speaker/rca output. All fun and stuff viper this and that. But ViperFX app cannot do this, cannot create individual channels all of the sudden. This is something that needs to be hardware built in.
Im waiting on my 2nd android headunit now in 2 month. Because i ordered one (with dsp), turns out it only has some fake ass 13band eq and a front rear shifter, no sub volume/gain control, no filtering. Besides missing allot of audio settings it sounded also like utter sh#t. The voltage out of the RCA are also way to low. So i turned it back.
Now waiting on the one with Dedicated hardware DSP. So i have individual channel audio control, real 32band eq, Filter Cutoff settings per channel (low pass, high pass). My guess is that this unit would work extremely well for my purpose and audio setup (1x 2channel amp front, 1x 2channel amp rear deck, 1x monoblock subwoofers).
Honestly i dont really get it how they cannot include subwoofer volume and hz filtering on a Android Headunit. Those are like basic audio settings in like every 1 din car radio.
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Which unit have you ordered that has all of the DSP features that you describe? And if you have such an "advanced" setup, why wouldn't you use an external DSP unit for complete control?