lab power supply - General Questions and Answers

Hi everyone,
I'm interested in buying a lab power supply for smartphones, tablets and laptops.
I would like to be able to test faulty products without battery or power adapter.
There are many lab power supply's out there and i do'nt know which one to buy.
I did some research on volts/amps but i'm still unsure how much amps a product can handle.
Maybe somebody could share me some of his experiences with lab power supplies?
Here's another question, how can i workout the amps for e.q. an tablet if i only know volts/mah?
I think all smartphones use 1A, correct me if i'm wrong
Thanks.

Related

alternativ chargers?

last week i were on a holyday where i really didn?t have access to any form of power (that is unless i went into a store to use their power to charge my xda2 where i then had to wait for something which felt like a year for it to get some power)
needless to say that i didn?t use my xda2 all that much for that week
I remember that you for normal cell phones can get different types of funny chargers
Like one where you have to turn some handle to produce power
And also one which used solar power
Have anybody had any experience with such types of chargers and the xda series ?
I mean sure they would prob not have the right connector but modding one yourself using the connector from the charger to connect a modded wire would be a walk in the park
Hi Rudegar,
have a look at
http://secure.proporta.com/proporta/F02/PPF02P05.php?t_id=657&t_mode=des
Proporta iSun
I was thinking on buying the Proporta iSun...
That would solve the problem Rudegar had!
And of course it was a right good suggestion from bejay!
So anybody has it?
When you buy it does it comes with the right Himalaya cable?
Tnx.
Any charger that supplies 5V on a "sony walkman style" jack plug (+ on tip if I recall) will do.
Most chargers come with a variety of jack plugs.
The jack plug goes on the charger-to-mda-plug converter that was shipped with your device.
Worked for me in the car when I had no carkit
I just purchased a Covertec travel usb charger + car usb charger + usb cable for $19.95 + shipping from Mobileplanet.com Search covertec xda on the site. The DC 5V output is rated at 850mA or 1A. There is a review up on pccw.net.
I like the usb solution better because I can reuse the charger for most new cell phones, blackberries, pda etc. So I only need to carry one power source instead of 2 or 3.
There is another USB high current charger wiith a brand called Ecovell which costs $15 just for the AC charger.
http://www.pdagold.com/forums/view_topic.asp?t=4626
heh
Rudegar said:
http://www.pdagold.com/forums/view_topic.asp?t=4626
heh
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For my it's a little bit expensive...
But who has core can buy it!
I'll remain on Proporta iSun solution.
http://www.coolpromotions.co.uk/rotarycharger.htm
i would asume this one is even cheaper not sure how many volts it give however and if using it could damage ones xda
also since it give somewhat less then 1 to 1 charging to 100% would likely take a great deal of time but hey they say we should get some workout once in awhile
good stuf for a reasonable price: www.time168.com
(also on eBay, but cheaper when bought directly)

[Q] Charge quickly 10 Samsung Galaxy S at the same time

Hello everybody,
I have a problematic that I will explain you :
I'm working in a company which rents cell-phones (only Samsung Galaxy S, it's why I post in this part of the forum), with a software installed on these.
But the problem is that we have a lot of SGS, and not a lot of outlets, so when we need to recharge a huge part of these phones it's a mess.
We want to find a charger with at least 4 USB ports, like this :
Kensington 4 Port USB Charger, you can find features on amazon (I can't post external links, because I'm new on the forum)
or
Lenmar ACUSB4 Adapter Powered (Also on amazon)
Or more, like this :
Plugable 10 USB Port Power Adapter (still amazon)
or
Plugable 7 Port High Speed USB 2.0 Hub with 3A Power Adapter
But I have another problem :
I need to have a charger which supplies more than 500mA per port/device, because it will take too much time for charging, and if a customer want to rent a phone quickly, I also have to charge it quickly.
I found this :
Cambrionix c3-Case (features on the Cambrionix's website)
but I'm sure it will be very expensive and I don't have the features so I don't know if I can charge 16 SGS, with a least 1 Amp per port.
We tried to charge the SGS with a Nokia charger with 1.2 Amp, and it was much faster than with the OEM charger from Samsung. But it's impossible to find a hub charger with 1.2 Amp port, because an USB cable can just support 1 Amp.
So I want to mix those 2 ideas :
1) to use the maximum capacity of an USB cable (1 Amp) but for each port and for each device
2) to charge, at least 4 devices in the same time (but 8 or 10 will be better)
Do you understand my problem, and can you give me some ideas or names of products if you know some.
Thank you
why dont you use a high power usb hub?
why dont you buy reserve batteries? you can get them cheap and external chargers too.
Buy original batteries and external chargers, easiest and fastest way to do this than to a rely on a 1A charger.
elviroo said:
why dont you use a high power usb hub?
why dont you buy reserve batteries? you can get them cheap and external chargers too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought about high power usb hub, but the problem is that generally this kind of hub, because they are plugged on a computer, can't give more than 500 mA per port/device.
We don't want to buy reserve batteries, because with the number of SGS we have, it will be a mess. I mean if we have 100 reserve batteries we will never know if one battery is charged or not...
An external charger means that we need to give that with the phone to the renter and we don't want to burden our customers with another device.
I'm thinking about another solution :
Maybe I can buy a powered USB 3.0 hub, because USB 3.0 can provide 900mA per port.
But I'm not an electronic engineer and I have a question :
I found powered USB 3.0 hub with 7 ports, it's written that each port can provide 900mA, so for this it's ok. But it's also written that the Power Adapter is 5V/2A.
So i'm wondering if I plug 7 devices, do they will share 2A together (so it's mean each port will provide 2A / 7 devices = 300mA per device) or there is no relation between the amperage of the power adapter and the amperage that ports can supply, so they will effectively provide 900mA each ?
of couse every port can provide 900mA but not all at the same time. they share the 2A. maybe there is some more current from the pc if its connected (+500mA ?)
fact is: if there are 7 devices connectedyou will never have 900mA at every device. i guess max 500mA at 7 devices.
At the end of the day the phone only needs a basic 5 Volt supply and it'll charge.
Why not just buy some USB sockets from RS check out the wiring diagrams for USB and the buy a 5 Volts high current PSU from Ebay.
Something like this:
USB Sockets:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2x-Female-USB-Dual-A-Type-Connector-PCB-Mount-Socket-/260573457292?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3cab636b8c#ht_583wt_905
Power supply:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/7-5A-POWER-SUPPLY-PSU-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-22-23-24-VOLT-/170568030677?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_PowerAdaptors_SM&hash=item27b6a599d5#ht_3859wt_1139
USB wiring diagram:
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.data-recovery-experts.com/images/usb-cable-wiring-diagram.gif&imgrefurl=http://diskdrive.wordpress.com/2008/02/21/flash-read-error-flash-drive-not-recognized-how-to-repair-usb-flash-drive/&usg=__ZZ1N-S5GzD9HSNtscBxhjtlDWEc=&h=123&w=379&sz=6&hl=en&start=0&sig2=oyfXvh5ugBS09egECdFMZw&zoom=1&tbnid=tYS2afVtcCWHpM:&tbnh=54&tbnw=167&ei=tkVJTeDBGM2FhQfNtKGqDg&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dusb%2Bwiring%2Bdiagram%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26biw%3D1386%26bih%3D676%26tbs%3Disch:1&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=752&vpy=120&dur=3710&hovh=98&hovw=303&tx=144&ty=68&oei=tkVJTeDBGM2FhQfNtKGqDg&esq=1&page=1&ndsp=28&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:0
Would take about an hour to construct wit the right tools.
Hoe this helps
Logicalstep
why won't you just buy a lot of extension chords? i mean those SGS's should have a bundled charger, right?
Our customers can rent the smartphone directly from us, but also in some partners places, which are luxury brands, so we can not give to this luxury company something built by us, they will say no.
We need an official product, not something which looks like cheap...
And our partners don't want to use 7 or 8 outlets to charge phones, they want to charge all in the same place and easily, so the hub is the best solution, or something with the same idea.
I didn't get the idea with extension cables ?
I think your only option is to use spare batteries and chargers.
It would be fairly easy to create a nice looking charger box.
You could mount the chargers to the top of a thin box, then have their power cables go inside the box and all connect to one power socket out the back. Nice and neat and does what you need.
If you are looking for an off the shelf solution, then Google is your friend, but I don't think you'll find something that does what you need.
How much is you company willing to pay...I'd be interested in building it for you, but it would have to be worth while.
I get the feeling that you were after a cheap quick fix for this, which I don;t think exists?
Logicalstep
It could be interesting but my company is in Hong Kong, so I don't know where you live but if you live far away from Hong Kong the shipping cost will be very expensive, maybe more than the cost of the product.

Benson Leung Reviews: What they actually tell us and how to use it.

Benson Leung is doing a great service by identifying to users whether various Legacy to Type C adapters and cables use the appropriate pullup resistor. Unfortunately, most people have misread his statements and even worse, drawn erroneous conclusions. Benson Leung Amazon Profile (Reviews)
What the Leung Reviews Actually Tell Us:
Whether the reviewed product uses the correct pullup resistor base on Type C specifications or not.
For whatever reason, the Google Chromebook Pixel (2015) will not charge with a cable that has the wrong pullup resistor.
The Google Chromebook Pixel (2015) might attempt to draw 3A at startup and depending on the port it is drawing from, it might burn the attached port.
What They Tell Us w/ Respect to the Nexus 6p:
Absolutely nothing
While we can infer that the Nexus 6P will believe that the attached facing port can deliver up to 3A, the review gives us no indication about how the attached devices (6P on the C end or the port device on the legacy) will react. We know the 6P behaves better with these cables than the Pixel. Link for a post and video link for getting 3A from an Anker Type A charger.
How to use this information:
If you desire a cable or adapter that adheres to the Type c specification, buy the ones Mr. Leung reviews favorably and avoid the ones he reviews unfavorably.
If you desire the possibility of getting more than 2.4A from a legacy charger, buy the cables that Mr. Leung tells you have the wrong pullup resistor. This includes having a single charger to charge your Nexus 6P and other phones and devices that need less than 3A all with Type A cables. It has been confirmed that you can get 3A safely to the 6P using these cables with Type A chargers. We hope manufactures will provide 5V/3A capacity, if not rated, chargers.
Recommendations for using these “Out of Spec” devices:
Mark them. While it is ignorant to shun these cables because you don’t understand the potential benefits they can provide, it is also ignorant to use them unknowingly. Also, if you have an issue, it makes it easier to determine if the cable is the problem.
Test your specific devices with the cables before deploying them for use.
Is it Safe to use these Cables to get 3A from a Charger through a legacy port charger?
First, a charger has a rated capacity, say 2.4A and a higher actual capacity. What that means is that the manufacturer certifies the device to supply enough power for a device that needs no more than 2.4A Because of sample to sample variation, the device must be designed to supply more than 2.4A so that those at the bottom of the sample will still meet that 2.4A requirement. For example, my device might need to be designed to output 2.7A so that I have a 99% confidence that any single randomly selected charger will be able to produce 2.4A. Hence, a device rated at 2.4A, outputting more than that is not unsafe. It is normal and expected It is only unsafe when the device exceeds it actual capacity leading to thermal shutdown.
A USB charger does not blithely output full rated current continuously. It is also important to understand that the attached device (the sink) controls the draw. This is why you can safely use the same charger to charge a 900mA device, a 1.5A device and 3A device. Battery charger does not require a full power!! The 6P will draw up to 3A, but does not require 3A
We know that these cables advertise 3A to the Type C port. That is, the device believes can draw up to 3A. The Nexus 6P seems to behave well when 3A is unavailable. It appears to work as it is supposed to by monitoring vRd on the buss and moderates it’s current draw to maintain the reference voltage. This is how it precludes overdriving a charger without the charger having to trip it’s own over current protection.
I have little need to connect my 6P to my computer and so I don’t use these cables connected to computer USB ports. I have the cable in my car and the 2 adapters in our other vehicles where I know there is a Type A to Micro B cable always available. Since the only at risk component is the $10 charger, if I ever have an issue, I really don’t care. However, to date, these have worked fine everywhere I’ve tried them.
Thanks! Very informative. I was wondering how his reviews affect usage with the Nexus 6P, and was starting to sway towards waiting for a spec-compliant adapter to come out. But now I think I'll just go for it...
Hi there!
Thanks for making this thread! This has been a hotly debated topic in numerous other threads, and has probably deserved it's own for quite a while now. I don't think it is a secret that @dwswager and I have had a slight disagreement from time to time concerning this. I'm not here to flame or derail the post, but hopefully provide a different perspective in hopes of furthering the discussion and understanding.
dwswager said:
How to use this information:
If you desire a cable or adapter that adheres to the Type c specification, buy the ones Mr. Leung reviews favorably and avoid the ones he reviews unfavorably.
If you desire the possibility of getting more than 2.4A from a legacy charger, buy the cables that Mr. Leung tells you have the wrong pullup resistor. This includes having a single charger to charge your Nexus 6P and other phones and devices that need less than 3A all with Type A cables. It has been confirmed that you can get 3A safely to the 6P using these cables with Type A chargers. We hope manufactures will provide 5V/3A capacity, if not rated, chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is great advice. If you don't want to take the risk, please buy in-spec cables. Intentionally using the out of specification cables is akin to hacking and tweaking an OS. I'm not against doing so - we wouldn't have custom roms without it - but, you should know the risks and be willing to accept them. With that said, it is my belief that current non-compliant cables should be removed from the market altogether. Unless the product is correctly labeled as such and specifically sold and marketed as non-compliant hardware, consumers don't really know what they are buying. Allowing manufacturers to sell these USB cables, and having users believe they are within specifications when they aren't, shouldn't be allowed.
Regardless, I would consider intentionally using out of spec cables in an attempt to gain further charging benefits to be "charging hacking". The goal, as stated, is to push the hardware beyond it's rated capabilities and/or to exceed documented specifications. As long as you know that is what you are trying to do, go for it! It's like flashing a rom to your phone - If you brick your charger, void your warranty, or get your charger stuck in a boot loop, it's your own fault. hehehe.
dwswager said:
Is it Safe to use these Cables to get 3A from a Charger through a legacy port charger?
First, a charger has a rated capacity, say 2.4A and a higher actual capacity. What that means is that the manufacturer certifies the device to supply enough power for a device that needs no more than 2.4A Because of sample to sample variation, the device must be designed to supply more than 2.4A so that those at the bottom of the sample will still meet that 2.4A requirement. For example, my device might need to be designed to output 2.7A so that I have a 99% confidence that any single randomly selected charger will be able to produce 2.4A. Hence, a device rated at 2.4A, outputting more than that is not unsafe. It is normal and expected It is only unsafe when the device exceeds it actual capacity leading to thermal shutdown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is an area I would be concerned about. As there is no way to know how much over the charger's rating you can safely go, I would advise caution. Also, it is entirely possible that the "higher actual capacity" is a safety buffer the manufacturer didn't intend for daily use.
dwswager said:
A USB charger doesn't blithely output full rated current continuously. It is also important to understand that the attached device (the sink) controls the draw. This is why you can safely use the same charger to charge a 900mA device, a 1.5A device and 3A device. Battery charger does not require a full power!! The 6P will draw up to 3A, but does not require 3A
We know that these cables advertise 3A to the Type C port. That is, the device believes can draw up to 3A. The Nexus 6P seems to behave well when 3A is unavailable. It appears to work as it is supposed to by monitoring vRd on the buss and moderates it’s current draw to maintain the reference voltage. This is how it precludes overdriving a charger without the charger having to trip it’s own over current protection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not entirely sure how proven this is as there are some examples online demonstrating the 6P pulling about 50% more current from an Anker charger than it is rated to provide. Again, I would advise caution.
dwswager said:
I have little need to connect my 6P to my computer and so I don’t use these cables connected to computer USB ports. I have the cable in my car and the 2 adapters in our other vehicles where I know there is a Type A to Micro B cable always available. Since the only at risk component is the $10 charger, if I ever have an issue, I really don’t care. However, to date, these have worked fine everywhere I’ve tried them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, probably best not to do this on an expensive laptop or PC. :good:
quitlee said:
Thanks! Very informative. I was wondering how his reviews affect usage with the Nexus 6P, and was starting to sway towards waiting for a spec-compliant adapter to come out. But now I think I'll just go for it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it is just a cheap car adapter that is one thing, but i would not want any cables like that near a computer. even if i know better than to plug it in i still may or someone else may.
What They Tell Us w/ Respect to the Nexus 6p: Absolutely nothing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do NOT buy this #USB #TypeC to Type-A cable from +OnePlus.
It is not spec compliant (uses a 3A identifier resistor instead of the "Default USB Power" one), and may cause damage to your charger, hub, or PC USB port if you use it with #ChromebookPixel or #nexus6p #Nexus5x .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
https://plus.google.com/+BensonLeung/posts/JmcU4rA1csh
zeitgeb3r said:
What They Tell Us w/ Respect to the Nexus 6p: Absolutely nothing
Do NOT buy this #USB #TypeC to Type-A cable from +OnePlus.
It is not spec compliant (uses a 3A identifier resistor instead of the "Default USB Power" one), and may cause damage to your charger, hub, or PC USB port if you use it with #ChromebookPixel or #nexus6p #Nexus5x .
https://plus.google.com/+BensonLeung/posts/JmcU4rA1csh
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've used one many times and it hasn't fried my charger or phone.
Regardless, I would consider intentionally using out of spec cables in an attempt to gain further charging benefits to be "charging hacking". The goal, as stated, is to push the hardware beyond it's rated capabilities and/or to exceed documented specifications. As long as you know that is what you are trying to do, go for it! It's like flashing a rom to your phone - If you brick your charger, void your warranty, or get your charger stuck in a boot loop, it's your own fault. hehehe.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I agree with this, I'm a lot more worried about someone who unknowingly or unintentionally (or stupidly) starts using those cables all over the places because "Damn it, Martha, that there cable worked just fine in the past", and plugs into a variety of ports not designed for the current, such as, but not limited to: notebook USB ports, PC USB ports, portable lion battery ports, airport charger ports, airline seat ports, the USB port in your Mom's car, your buddy's $1 USB charger that he got at WalMart and what have you. Yeah, it'll mostly work, but when it doesn't.... You could also replace all the 20A fuses in your house with 40A fuses and that would mostly work. Until it doesn't.
I just don't see the point. Buying spec compliant cables is no big deal. Buying a C->C fast charger is no big deal. What's the upside here? Save a few bucks? If that?
DebauchedSloth said:
Regardless, I would consider intentionally using out of spec cables in an attempt to gain further charging benefits to be "charging hacking". The goal, as stated, is to push the hardware beyond it's rated capabilities and/or to exceed documented specifications. As long as you know that is what you are trying to do, go for it! It's like flashing a rom to your phone - If you brick your charger, void your warranty, or get your charger stuck in a boot loop, it's your own fault. hehehe.
While I agree with this, I'm a lot more worried about someone who unknowingly or unintentionally (or stupidly) starts using those cables all over the places because "Damn it, Martha, that there cable worked just fine in the past", and plugs into a variety of ports not designed for the current, such as, but not limited to: notebook USB ports, PC USB ports, portable lion battery ports, airport charger ports, airline seat ports, the USB port in your Mom's car, your buddy's $1 USB charger that he got at WalMart and what have you. Yeah, it'll mostly work, but when it doesn't.... You could also replace all the 20A fuses in your house with 40A fuses and that would mostly work. Until it doesn't.
I just don't see the point. Buying spec compliant cables is no big deal. Buying a C->C fast charger is no big deal. What's the upside here? Save a few bucks? If that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No the upside is that inspec cables are harder to come by than out of spec ones. I bought the OP ones before we knew if they were in spec. I have the iorange one which is in spec as well but i don't want to waste the money i spent on the OP cables since i have 4 plus their adapter. I have Nexus Protect so i don't care if my phone magically dies since that's why i bought an extended warranty for it. I also own the Google 22.5W charger and i will gladly get more C-C cables but that doesn't help my charge my phone in the car
I have been using my old quick charge wall adapters with OnePlus cables for over a month now and I haven't had a single issue. They all charge at their rated rate, or under (my moto turbo charger tops out at 1300mah even though it can go much higher). Ive asked Benson already: what about the wall adapters? No reply. Oh, and USB Type C wall adapters are even harder to find then these cables, and who knows if those are "in spec." I already spent nearly $40 in OnePlus cables, im not about to buy $50 more in "in spec cables" to then find out that some google guy is now saying "dont use xxx wall adapters." I think if this really was a FIRE risk, google itself would be issuing a statement not just some guy who works there at some capacity. As far as i know, the device will be fine, and with my 1 year warranty i doubt anyone is going to run into a DEVICE issue. I think this is blowing up way out of proportion. My Samsung non fast charging wall adapter chargers at a max of 2.1a, and its rated for 2a. That 100 isnt going to do squat and i wouldnt be surprised if that was within the power rating anyway. My quick charge 2.0 aukey chargers also charge at that speed with the oneplus cables. Again, no issue. I think at this point ill risk the potential of damaging a $5 wall adapter due to a cable being "out of spec" than spending $12-19 a cable (times 5 as id want 2 in my cars and 3 at home) and then worrying about the wall adapters going with it possibly spending even more to replace those. Oh, and then you have to worry about the in car charging on top of those. I get what he's saying, and I don't disbelieve him, I just don't think its as big of an issue as people are making this out to be. Ill update my opinion if something happens, but im doubting it.
Don't buy these cables. Period.
See this report on Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/Nexus/comments/3rjiol/my_nexus_5x_fried_two_car_chargers_help_please/
Worst case: burn your house, die.
I have Nexus Protect so i don't care if my phone magically dies
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FWIW, it won't be your phone that dies, as far as I know. Worse case, whatever you plug it it into will die, potentially in a very bad way.
Just doesn't seem worth it.
Pilz said:
I've used one many times and it hasn't fried my charger or phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Murphy's Law.
All high-quality, brand name chargers feature overcurrent protection of some sort. All of them. You can stick a paper clip in them and totally short them out with no ill effect. If a charger emitted magic smoke under load it was a defective unit. They are by design "constant voltage, constant current" chargers, meaning they endeavor to supply a constant voltage until they hit their current maximum, at which point they become constant current and allow the voltage to drop to maintain the current constant.
For those who are curious about the exact behavior of various chargers under load, read all about it here:
http://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html
ackattacker said:
All high-quality, brand name chargers feature overcurrent protection of some sort. All of them. You can stick a paper clip in them and totally short them out with no ill effect. If a charger emitted magic smoke under load it was a defective unit. They are by design "constant voltage, constant current" chargers, meaning they endeavor to supply a constant voltage until they hit their current maximum, at which point they become constant current and allow the voltage to drop to maintain the current constant.
For those who are curious about the exact behavior of various chargers under load, read all about it here:
http://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well said, and great article!
ackattacker said:
All high-quality, brand name chargers feature overcurrent protection of some sort. All of them. You can stick a paper clip in them and totally short them out with no ill effect. If a charger emitted magic smoke under load it was a defective unit. They are by design "constant voltage, constant current" chargers, meaning they endeavor to supply a constant voltage until they hit their current maximum, at which point they become constant current and allow the voltage to drop to maintain the current constant.
For those who are curious about the exact behavior of various chargers under load, read all about it here:
http://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been looking everywhere for information on this topic. Everyone seems to think using a non spec cable is the end of the world but it seems it is not.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
so i'd be correct to say that if i used the One Plus type A to type C cable rated for 2.4A on my 12W iPad charger rated for 2.4A output, i'd be ok?
semajm85 said:
so i'd be correct to say that if i used the One Plus type A to type C cable rated for 2.4A on my 12W iPad charger rated for 2.4A output, i'd be ok?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe. It's not entirely risk free, but - as that article notes - it's probably OK. It's a calculated risk. That about sums up the entire issue.
Has there been any A to C adapters that have been approved? I don't think I saw any in that spreadsheet going around.
NCguy said:
Has there been any A to C adapters that have been approved? I don't think I saw any in that spreadsheet going around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/iOrange-E-Bra...?ie=UTF8&qid=1447681815&sr=8-2&keywords=USB-C
DebauchedSloth said:
http://www.amazon.com/iOrange-E-Bra...?ie=UTF8&qid=1447681815&sr=8-2&keywords=USB-C
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that. Looks like that adapter is C to A. Is there a certified A to C that I've overlooked?

Best cable, power brick and power bank

Hi everyone, I'm gonna change the USB board of my i-9505 which now is too much ruined by using Chinese cables for too long. I'm looking for 2 good cables(one around 2-3 meters for my powerbrick and a shorter one for my power bank), which can easily support 5V 2A, and maybe compatible with the latest quick charging technology (if it doesn't affect price too much). Moreover I'm searching for a good power brick capable of 5V 2A or 5V 2.4A and a big good quality power bank (around 15000 or 20000 mah) capable of 2 or 2.4A and quick charge compatible, again if it doesn't affect price too much. I've heard about Anker making good products...what could you suggest me, or what are you currently using?
For the cable, you should really get one of those thick ones. They allow more current to pass through.
Best cables:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Charg...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
I have a bunch of these and I use them in all my chargers.
As for a power brick, I have an 18000 mah brick but it's way too big. The product I ordered doesn't existing on Amazon anymore so I can't share a link to it.
It is similar to this model: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6VA7OU?psc=1
I just got a smaller power bank because the 18000 was way too big and heavy for normal use.
This one is small and light enough to carry in my back pack all the time and it works great. I've used it to recharge by phone 3 times before it needed to be recharged itself.
http://www.amazon.com/Emie-Memo-000...1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
For cords, the "Anker" pacsks avail at amazon work great. (sorry i cant post links). They sell many different lengths and quantities.
Power bank - Anker Astro E5 16000. Great price with Panasonic cells

GT-N8020 dead

Hi,
I stopped using my GT-N8020 for a month or two (dont remember if I powered it of before, but I dont think I did). When I wanted to use it again, it would not turn on. I left it on the charger over night (original charger, original cable, unlikely to be broken because they were working a few weeks before and not touched afterwards), but still nothing. The display stays black, the charging symbol does not show.
My first guess was a broken battery. So I went ahead, opened the tablet and replaced the battery (after first trying to unplug it for a few hours, charge it, and see what happens). I left it to charge for a few hours afterwards and again tried to power it up. Still nothing. The screen stays black.
I also made sure that all the cables are connected properly and nothing got loose (some people reported loosened ribbon cables as a potential issue). Also I tried every combination of holding all buttons forever, which many people have been recommending.
Although I am very sure that the cable is not broken, I just ordered a new one just in case. The charger was working with my phone, so that cannot be the issue, also other chargers dont work. If the new cable does not work either (which I am pretty sure it wont), I am out of ideas. Does somebody here maybe have any idea what else I could try? Maybe there is something that I missed, or maybe someone has encountered a similar issue before.
Thanks in advance
Galaxy Note "dead"
Hi,
I had the same problem once with my tablet and was able to solve the issue. Resurch on the internet reveiled that you need an extra strong charger to revive the device. They recommended a charger for the IPhone. I did not have that but used a quick-charger from my Asus phone. This worked in the end. Good luck!
didiheine said:
Hi,
I had the same problem once with my tablet and was able to solve the issue. Resurch on the internet reveiled that you need an extra strong charger to revive the device. They recommended a charger for the IPhone. I did not have that but used a quick-charger from my Asus phone. This worked in the end. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are a lot of misconceptions about basic electronics. Chargers do not "push" current "into" your device; your device pulls current from its power source; in other words, the device determines how much power is drawn (provided the power source meets the device's voltage and current requirements). The OEM charger is 5V 2A. If you plugged the Note into a 5V 10A charger, it will still only draw up to 2A--assuming the Note doesn't think it's plugged into a USB port and only draw up to 500mA (0.5A).
The key takeaway here is that a power supply's current rating is only specifying the maximum current it can provide, not how much current will be drawn.
Use an app like Ampere or this one: https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/apps-games/charge-monitor-t3555496
...to verify charging current.
Rolo42 said:
There are a lot of misconceptions about basic electronics. Chargers do not "push" current "into" your device; your device pulls current from its power source; in other words, the device determines how much power is drawn (provided the power source meets the device's voltage and current requirements). The OEM charger is 5V 2A. If you plugged the Note into a 5V 10A charger, it will still only draw up to 2A--assuming the Note doesn't think it's plugged into a USB port and only draw up to 500mA (0.5A).
The key takeaway here is that a power supply's current rating is only specifying the maximum current it can provide, not how much current will be drawn.
Use an app like Ampere or this one: https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/apps-games/charge-monitor-t3555496
...to verify charging current.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your lesson on basic physics!
The truth is that a charger with higher power rating did the trick for me. Apparently with the battery fully depleeted the Galaxy Note needs to draw (initially) from a charger with a higher power provision. My Note is still alive and kicking and I never had charging problems afterwords.
The charge-monitor you are linking to is need; it is just a bit hard to install on a dead device. :laugh:
didiheine said:
Thanks for your lesson on basic physics!
The truth is that a charger with higher power rating did the trick for me. Apparently with the battery fully depleeted the Galaxy Note needs to draw (initially) from a charger with a higher power provision. My Note is still alive and kicking and I never had charging problems afterwords.
The charge-monitor you are linking to is need; it is just a bit hard to install on a dead device. :laugh:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...or you could install it on a working device to compare chargers.
I don't know why you mock me when I'm only trying to help you.
Now that it is working, you can compare the current draw between the two chargers and compare what the device draws vs. what the charter is rated.
If your OEM charger didn't charge the device, then it is defective, not "too small". Alternatively, the charger on the device could be defective and if indeed it does pull more current than what it was designed to do, component failure can occur (as well as a fire).

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