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Greetings to all of you. I hope you be very patient with my poor english (I write and speak spanish) and this long post (please, read all of this) and please help me with this question, my first question here.
I am a XDA user a time ago, 2 years or least; I have flashed the kernel or the ROM of a lot of Android devices (+10, tablets and phones) using your knowledge posted on this wonderful community and I talk about this to prove that I'm not a totally noob and I never had a problem like this before; sadly, this happens with my own phone: SGH-T959V.
The charging port stopped working as data transfer port and just worked as charging port, this occurred just 2 months ago; but it was not relevant for me because I did not use the function in a long time, I used to charge my phone when it requires energy and nothing else. But I read about a CyanogenMod update (unofficial) for my phone and decided try it. Then I download it, install it via CWM and it worked successfully; I had a beauty JB 4.2 running on my 3 years old phone. I noted that there was a trouble with the RAM size, the new CM ROM just recognizes 346 MB of the RAM and the last ROM (CM 9) could recognize the 512 MB. I looked for a post here which talked about my problem and I found it, they suggest to install another kernel and I proceeded to do it. It was the 3 am or close, I was tired and here comes the first big mistake: I download and install a wrong kernel, a kernel for the T959, not the T959V. I cannot remember the name of the wrong kernel (because I deleted it from my PC) but since I installed it, the phone is always on recovery mode and the title of menu is: “Devil touch recovery v6.0.1.9”.
I tried to install the last kernel which worked fine (hefe-kernel-v0.8.1) and I always get the following messages: (as with any other kernel or ROM)
E:Can’t mount /cache/recovery/last_log
E:Can’t open /cache/recovery/last_log
E:failed to find “cache” partition to mount at “/cache”
Status 4 error and Status 7 error appeared too. (I solved the status 7 error modifying the Meta.inf data into the zip)
I formatted the SD card, put the kernel there and tried again to install it, but I have no success. I fixed permissions, tried to wipe data, wipe cache, but the same messages appeared. I look for a solution on some threads here and read about the cache format, they talk about ext3 and ext4 but I cannot find the way to reformat the phone with a kernel which has the right format to then, finally, install the right kernel for the phone. Well, at this point, I thought about all the mess up and then I conclude: Why the hell I don’t just recover the phone via download mode and Odin? If you remember, the charging port just worked for charging, not for data transfer or any other usb function; yep, I got it on that dawn: I was screwed.
Next morning, I carried the phone to the technical service (here in Cali, Colombia. It is not from Samsung) looking for a new charging port, the technician told me that he had the right repairing part; he said that was the same of the SGS3 (IFC700). I returned the next day for my phone and I found a major disaster: the “technician” did not apply properly the heat gun and all the electric conducting lines (the 7) were pasted at the pins of the old and damaged port.
I searched for another technician and thanks God could find one that gave me hope, although somewhat unreal, for my bad luck. He suggested me that if we could detect the origin of the electric conducting lines on the mainboard (unit U701, specifically) we could make a bridge between them and the pins of the new charging port; the problem is that I surf and surf through all internet and found only this pdf: On bit ly :/1dS7M61 (I cannot post links yet.)
But here, they do not give information about the PCB and the specific connections for pins, so, here comes my first question:
Do you know the specific origin of the seven electric conducting lines of the charging port? And, if you do, do you know if possible make a bridge with them?
In case this does not work, do you know how to recover the phone to the original kernel and ROM (as Odin does) but without using the usb cable, just the SD card?
I will stay watchful. Thank you for your time, your patience and your help.
Most of the lines for the pins are on the surface layer and go right up to the connector so unless you have ripped them all the way off you should be able to tell what goes where. The first and last connections are GND and there's a big area of gnd on either side of the connector. There are 2 other lines that are VCC I can't remember which lines now from memory but it should be fairly obvious to a technician. The last 3 are the tougher ones. TX and RX each have a tiny little line on the surface layer which leads up to the corresponding pin. The last one is the host mode pin which actually comes out from inside the board into the pin itself. If you look really close it looks like a little dot where the pin would sit. That last one I found nearly impossible to repair, but the other lines you can peel off the coating and solder a really small wire on top of them to complete the connection. All the more important lines are visible so unless somebody really jacked up your phone a decent tech should be able to repair it mostly.
If this doesn't work you're screwed. And even if you can repair 6 of the 7 lines the one that tells the phone to be in dock or download mode is necessary if you can't get into download mode with the volume buttons.
TwitchyEye said:
Most of the lines for the pins are on the surface layer and go right up to the connector so unless you have ripped them all the way off you should be able to tell what goes where. The first and last connections are GND and there's a big area of gnd on either side of the connector. There are 2 other lines that are VCC I can't remember which lines now from memory but it should be fairly obvious to a technician. The last 3 are the tougher ones. TX and RX each have a tiny little line on the surface layer which leads up to the corresponding pin. The last one is the host mode pin which actually comes out from inside the board into the pin itself. If you look really close it looks like a little dot where the pin would sit. That last one I found nearly impossible to repair, but the other lines you can peel off the coating and solder a really small wire on top of them to complete the connection. All the more important lines are visible so unless somebody really jacked up your phone a decent tech should be able to repair it mostly.
If this doesn't work you're screwed. And even if you can repair 6 of the 7 lines the one that tells the phone to be in dock or download mode is necessary if you can't get into download mode with the volume buttons.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the fast answer! I will show this to the techinician and I hope that he can repair it; although I really think it is almost impossible, the lines are all deeply ripped, just the third and fifth line survived the attack.
Again, I want to answer just one more time about fixing the problem of installing kernels or ROMs via recovery mode (please read again the first post): "E:Can’t mount /cache/recovery/last_log
E:Can’t open /cache/recovery/last_log
E:failed to find “cache” partition to mount at “/cache”
Status 4 error and Status 7 error appeared too. (I solved the status 7 error modifying the Meta.inf data into the zip)"
Do you know how to fix this? Or install a stock kernel without those problems?
Thank you!
PD: I will post the answer of the technician to this.
Yeah the kernel you flashed screwed up your phone and the only way to recover is through heimdall or Odin which you'll need usb for.
Thank you again for your attention. Unfortunately the technician could not find the download mode pin, so it's official: my phone is a paperweight. I thank you again for your help and interest, have a good weekend.
First of all, fo ur problem, I believe that the only way u can save ur phone is using heimdall to flash another mtd kernel (if u can luckily boot into download mode) but sad that ur usb port was doom (correct me if I am wrong).
In addition, why on new kernel the phone just shows 384MB of RAM? Just fyi, new aries kernels changed the way counting RAM as they don't count the reserved RAM that the init system took but just the remain. As if u look into the kernel, there is somewhere says that RAM = total subtract reserved (in a specific calculation not words). That's why u saw 384MB even in fact we have 512MB. N why it is 384 but not 400 or 450, idk lol. So if anyone is curious bout this can have this rep as an answer as well
Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk 2
You don't need the download pin if you can get into download mode by holding the volume buttons. If you need a usb jig to get into download mode then you're out of luck. Otherwise your phone will function normally except when you put it in a dock or try to use otg which as far as I know we don't have support for anyway.
Hello folks!
I purchased a bricked TF300t from ebay. I knew it was bricked when I bought it, but I asked the original owner a bunch of questions before buying and it seemed like I could fix it. Well he wasn't completely honest about the issues it had and now I am stuck in a bootloop. It will load the ASUS splash screen, then it will begin to load the rom by showing the metallic looking asus splash screen with the spinning circle. It will spin for a little while, freeze, then reboot.
I was able to flash the stock JB 4.2 rom via the sdcard and the stock recovery (yes it is the JB bootloader) and this is where it lands me. I was hoping to use a TWRP or ClockworkMod recovery, but when I boot to the bootloader and it says fastboot protocol is on, neither of my Windows 8x64 pc will recognize it. Not just that it can't find the right driver, but that it doesn't see anything at all has been connected. Nothing in the device manager, no sound effects, nada. I have no blobs, so APX is worthless to me (and it doesn't find anything in apx mode either). I have used universal ADB drivers, Naked drivers, Driving Ms. Daisy, all to no avail. I have also tried to connect it to a 64 bit windows 7 machine with no luck. I am using the stock USB cable as well.
Basically I need a way to get out of the bootloop, a way to make fastboot work, or to flash a new recovery via sd-card (which I don't even think is possible). Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Oh, and before you give me the standard forum-snob response, "Google is your friend. Search the forums. Your issue has been answered," I have been wrestling with this problem for over a month, and have Googled my brains out. I have dome my due diligence. If you think the answer is out there, put up or shut up. Give me a link.
brandonharrison10 said:
Hello folks!
Oh, and before you give me the standard forum-snob response, "Google is your friend. Search the forums. Your issue has been answered," I have been wrestling with this problem for over a month, and have Googled my brains out. I have dome my due diligence. If you think the answer is out there, put up or shut up. Give me a link.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If they know, they wouldn't give you the Google-is-your-friend thing. But sarcasm won't get you far either, I'm afraid. People are willing to help, but nobody owes anybody anything up here. Your due diligence is for your own good, and counts for little here. No need to remind them to put up with you. You're asking for help you're not paying for, remember?
Now to the matter at hand: is it possible that the cable and/or the I/O port is bad? That takes place quite often. A wrong push might bend the tiny pins inside (happened to me, I had to replace the ribbon cable ). Some have gone through 2 or 3 USB cables before getting the thing to work. There have been cases where the PC couldn't connect with the tab in fastboot mode because the drivers did not install correctly or it's Win 7 64, etc... But if you can verify software validity PC-side, then it can't be anything other than physical non-connectivity. You might be barking up the wrong tree by focusing solely on firmware tab-side.
graphdarnell said:
If they know, they wouldn't give you the Google-is-your-friend thing. But sarcasm won't get you far either, I'm afraid. People are willing to help, but nobody owes anybody anything up here. Your due diligence is for your own good, and counts for little here. No need to remind them to put up with you. You're asking for help you're not paying for, remember?
Now to the matter at hand: is it possible that the cable and/or the I/O port is bad? That takes place quite often. A wrong push might bend the tiny pins inside (happened to me, I had to replace the ribbon cable ). Some have gone through 2 or 3 USB cables before getting the thing to work. There have been cases where the PC couldn't connect with the tab in fastboot mode because the drivers did not install correctly or it's Win 7 64, etc... But if you can verify software validity PC-side, then it can't be anything other than physical non-connectivity. You might be barking up the wrong tree by focusing solely on firmware tab-side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First off, thanks for your reply! Secondly, I am sorry that my original post came off sounding so harsh! It didn't sound so bad in my head (but rereading it I think you are right). Sorry if I offended. I have edited my original post to remove some of the snarkiness.
Also, it may be a bad IO port, but when I plug it into the computer while on the bootloader menu, for example, the tablet freezes for just a moment as if it is getting ready for communication with my pc.. I hope the IO port is not bad, but even if it is, any other ideas that anyone can give me would be welcome.
brandonharrison10 said:
First off, thanks for your reply! Secondly, I am sorry that my original post came off sounding so harsh! It didn't sound so bad in my head (but rereading it I think you are right). Sorry if I offended. I have edited my original post to remove some of the snarkiness.
Also, it may be a bad IO port, but when I plug it into the computer while on the bootloader menu, for example, the tablet freezes for just a moment as if it is getting ready for communication with my pc.. I hope the IO port is not bad, but even if it is, any other ideas that anyone can give me would be welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I read your OP again. Your problem is interesting. I assume at this point your tab is stuck at the bootloader with at least 2 icons (RCK and Wipe Data), since if you can load the 4.2 rom, you can use Goo manager to download the custom recovery. But even if stuck at fastboot page, you should be able to select RCK and flash back to 4.1 with the official zip (104220 unzipped once) on SD card. I've done this after selecting the wipe data icon (while you're on official rom with no custom recovery installed, it's safe to wipe data). Once you succeed at downgrading to 4.1, you can work your way back up to 4.2. Have you tried this?
graphdarnell said:
If they know, they wouldn't give you the Google-is-your-friend thing. But sarcasm won't get you far either, I'm afraid. People are willing to help, but nobody owes anybody anything up here. Your due diligence is for your own good, and counts for little here. No need to remind them to put up with you. You're asking for help you're not paying for, remember?
Now to the matter at hand: is it possible that the cable and/or the I/O port is bad? That takes place quite often. A wrong push might bend the tiny pins inside (happened to me, I had to replace the ribbon cable ). Some have gone through 2 or 3 USB cables before getting the thing to work. There have been cases where the PC couldn't connect with the tab in fastboot mode because the drivers did not install correctly or it's Win 7 64, etc... But if you can verify software validity PC-side, then it can't be anything other than physical non-connectivity. You might be barking up the wrong tree by focusing solely on firmware tab-side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Emphasis is my own. Sorry to go grave digging but I'm running into issues with my tablet trying to fastboot with win 7 x64. Is this a known issue or was that just a dig at Microsoft?
TwStD said:
Emphasis is my own. Sorry to go grave digging but I'm running into issues with my tablet trying to fastboot with win 7 x64. Is this a known issue or was that just a dig at Microsoft?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There were reports of people running into problems using W7 64. I've used it, and it's not so much problems as it is it'd act weird sometimes. So I mostly used W7 32. Hope that answers your question.
graphdarnell said:
There were reports of people running into problems using W7 64. I've used it, and it's not so much problems as it is it'd act weird sometimes. So I mostly used W7 32. Hope that answers your question.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I only use X64. No issues here, I just use the drivers posted on the sticky ( http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1697227 Post 2 Under "Utilities 300T 300TG" ). I didnt have any luck with the universal drivers though. One thing that DID make a difference for me was whether I plugged it into a USB port on the front ( from the motherboard header ) or directly to the motherboard in the rear. Rear worked where front didnt ( on 2 different computers ). It might have something to do with the length of the cable + connecting in multiple spots. My external USB drives / Wireless adapters work perfect on the front ports, and one computer is brand new ( Intel extreme board + 3770K ). The new rig has USB3 on the front as well.
pyraxiate said:
I only use X64. No issues here, I just use the drivers posted on the sticky ( http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1697227 Post 2 Under "Utilities 300T 300TG" ). I didnt have any luck with the universal drivers though. One thing that DID make a difference for me was whether I plugged it into a USB port on the front ( from the motherboard header ) or directly to the motherboard in the rear. Rear worked where front didnt ( on 2 different computers ). It might have something to do with the length of the cable + connecting in multiple spots. My external USB drives / Wireless adapters work perfect on the front ports, and one computer is brand new ( Intel extreme board + 3770K ). The new rig has USB3 on the front as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be fair, I am on a ME301T but the hardware and most of the software is nearly identical. I'll try the drivers you recommended.
TwStD said:
To be fair, I am on a ME301T but the hardware and most of the software is nearly identical. I'll try the drivers you recommended.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also try different usb ports as well. Its weird, but fixed my issue. Also on laptops, some have daughterboards or small ribbons connecting to some of the USB ports. Its worth a shot trying different ports on a laptop as well.
Let us know if it works !
If not, it could be your dock connector as mentioned earlier. Luckily, they are cheap though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-ASUS-TF...216?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7a699730
OK, will do. Thanks!
try using a Linux. and install adb and fastboot drivers. win8 is a pain in the butt with android. i switched to Linux mint as a main os for everything android. also check the forum here. I posted a guide to reflash from a softbrick as long as fastboot is working.
Unrecoverable bootloader error but not Bricked!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=44244313
Unrecoverable bootloader error but not Bricked!
gl
buster
Sent from my GT-I9505 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
HELLO,
i would like to try to replace the nand chip of my bricked tv box with a new chip
this because the original chip has been damaged shortening two pins trying to put the device in mask rom mode
my device is t-r42 based on rk3188
the price of the nand flash is about $4,
i can found it on some chinese online store
i hope that replacing the nand, my device will go to mask rom mode, enabling me to do the firmware loading through pc (rkbatchtool)
i know that this mode has been designed specifically to load the firmware the first time,
so i hope my device will go to this mode the first time i power on it after replacing it
any suggestion?
any hint?
i know this must be done with :microscopic` attention
thanks!!
Vicolodo said:
HELLO,
i would like to try to replace the nand chip of my bricked tv box with a new chip
this because the original chip has been damaged shortening two pins trying to put the device in mask rom mode
my device is t-r42 based on rk3188
the price of the nand flash is about $4,
i can found it on some chinese online store
i hope that replacing the nand, my device will go to mask rom mode, enabling me to do the firmware loading through pc (rkbatchtool)
i know that this mode has been designed specifically to load the firmware the first time,
so i hope my device will go to this mode the first time i power on it after replacing it
any suggestion?
any hint?
i know this must be done with :microscopic` attention
thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
your going to have to find someone with a hot air rework station to unmount and or remount a new chip. the thing of it is, the pcb has to have perfect traces,,, 0 damage. even if that is met, unmounting and remounting a new chip in a perfect world takes a lot of skill and experience. will it get you into mask rom mode,,, I would guess yes. far as I understand it, thats a hardware thing not a os thing (os=firmware). Unless its something you just want to tinker with just to see if you can do it I wouldnt bother. Thats just me. I have crashed units over and over and got into mask rom mode doing the pin short, purposely trying different firmwares to see if they would work. I am not sure if mask rom mode will happen with out the pin short on a blank chip. maybe thats another question.
if you find someone local that does rework on surface chips, best bet would be ask them. Also a better answer here at least for me would be a close up picture of the chip you speak of, it would probly tell a thousand words. I have done rework, not in the past 5 years but I have. it takes a extremely steady hand and a good feel for when the solder is fluid. Theres tricks to it, do it wrong and theres no fixing the torn traces. Maybe craiglist would point you to someone who does this sort of work in your area. Possibly a local flat screen tv repair center may be able to direct you to someone local also, they are packed with sm chips.
Just some thoughts
stinkster said:
your going to have to find someone with a hot air rework station to unmount and or remount a new chip. the thing of it is, the pcb has to have perfect traces,,, 0 damage. even if that is met, unmounting and remounting a new chip in a perfect world takes a lot of skill and experience. will it get you into mask rom mode,,, I would guess yes. far as I understand it, thats a hardware thing not a os thing (os=firmware). Unless its something you just want to tinker with just to see if you can do it I wouldnt bother. Thats just me. I have crashed units over and over and got into mask rom mode doing the pin short, purposely trying different firmwares to see if they would work. I am not sure if mask rom mode will happen with out the pin short on a blank chip. maybe thats another question.
if you find someone local that does rework on surface chips, best bet would be ask them. Also a better answer here at least for me would be a close up picture of the chip you speak of, it would probly tell a thousand words. I have done rework, not in the past 5 years but I have. it takes a extremely steady hand and a good feel for when the solder is fluid. Theres tricks to it, do it wrong and theres no fixing the torn traces. Maybe craiglist would point you to someone who does this sort of work in your area. Possibly a local flat screen tv repair center may be able to direct you to someone local also, they are packed with sm chips.
Just some thoughts
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you very much,
i will let you know!!
Vicolodo said:
thank you very much,
i will let you know!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A quick alternative for establishing that it is only a faulty NAND is to try booting Linux from an SD card. If that works, then you could look around for someone who has created running Android from SD card for your device and you could at least still use your device in the interim.
[Q&A] WiFi stuck on turning on; MAC 02:00:00:00:00:00; G2 G3 G4 G5 Nexus5 Nexus 7 etc
Hi!
If you are reading this now, you are probably one of the unlucky fellows who's WiFi (and Bluetooth) stopped functioning, and if so, you are probably deperately searching for a solution/fix. I might have something for you, but first:
*** DISCLAIMER/WARNING ***
You yourself are exclusively responsible for whatever may (or may not) happen to your mobile device, to yourself or others. I am only giving hints/advices here that *MAY* help, but I will not take any responsability, nor will I provide any support, in absolutely *ANY CASE*, including, but not limited to: your problem not being solved or/and your mobile device becoming partially or completely broken. Let me be very clear: If you do anything to your device rendering it useless, destroying it, seriously or fataly injuring you or others, and then come blaming me or/and cry for help, I will point my index finger at you and laugh at you. Period.
If you are a impatient person and want to get straight to the point, jump right to section 6.
Table of Contents
0. Foreword
1. Description of the problem
2. Urgent advice
3. Things that didn't work
4. There is little hope
5. My most obvious advice
6. LET'S GET SERIOUS!
6.a Sellotape / Scotch tape
6.b Refrigerator / Freezer
6.c Oven
0. Foreword
Two or three months ago, one fine morning, the WiFi/BT of my LG G2 suddenly stopped working. Initially I thought this would be only one stupid annoying minor thingy, that I’d be able to solve it fast. I was wrong.
1. Description of the problem
When turning on the WiFi, it would just stay in "Turning on..." forever. Similar thing for Bluetooth: It would stay on for a few seconds and then turn itself off again after. (But then, who needs Bluetooth anyway, WiFi ist probably 100 times more important...). I have thoroughly searched the internet, and I found quite some videos with exactly the same problem (remove the two blanks from the links to watch):
h ttps://w ww.youtube.com/watch?v=fRGnQz1zUmw
h ttps://w ww.youtube.com/watch?v=4W8YJMDFM88
h ttp://w ww.dailymotion.com/video/x2cuyjt_nexus-5-turning-wifi-on-frozen-problem_tech
2. Urgent advice
I want to prevent you from wasting countless hours searching for a solution - I wasted so much of my time already, no need for you to repeat that. Therefore: *Please* be aware that there is a VERY HIGH PROBABILITY that this issue is being caused by a hardware defect. I can not speak for all devices of course, but keep in mind that the main reason I wasted so much time, was me beliving it was some software issue! See the next section for a glimpse of stuff I have tried without any success:
3. Things that *DIDN'T* work
01. Restarting WiFi/Bluetooth several times
02. Rebooting the phone
03. Turning airplane mode on/off several times
04. Slapping/hitting the phone (this was indeed suggested in a forum)
05. Using WiFi-Fixer apps
06. Resetting to factory settings
07. Upgrading to newest Android version
08. Fully drained the battery and left it uncharged for several hours
(Rooted the phone)
09. Deleting the /data/misc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf
10. Deleting the whole /data/misc/wifi folder
11. Creating a file named ".bdaddr" in /persist/bluetooth containing a MAC-Address in hexadecimal format
12. Creating a file named ".macaddr" in /persist/wifi containing a MAC-Address in hexadecimal format
13. Flashing several custom ROMs to it (CyanogenMod, ParanoidAndroid, ...)
14. Going back to stock ROM
15. etc. etc. etc.
16. Several combinations and permutations of the above
4. There is little hope
Again, as the cause of the problem is most likely a hardware issue, I don't recommend going through all the steps as described in the previous section; however, though none of the steps worked for me, this doesn't mean that none won't work for you neither; you might be luckier than I was. In that case, enjoy your restored WiFi and be happy.
5. My most obvious advice
You need to replace the motherboard (main board) of your device.
Honestly, if you can afford it and it doesn't cause too many inconveniences to you, you'll be better off by simply buying a new device. If you don't want to buy a new device, send it in for repairs. If you don't want to do that as well, you'll have to fallback to a DIY solution:
I. Buy a new main board for your device. Be careful to get exactly the right component for your specific model. If you dont find any shop selling those, there are plenty of individuals out there that own devices with broken displays. You dont need the displays, you need the motherboard. Buy one such broken device, and you'll have your main board replacement.
II. Replace your main board or let someone else do it for you
Continues below.
continuation
6. LET'S GET SERIOUS!
If you are reading this, you either didn't read or you decided not to follow my most obvious advice in section 5. So be it. If you want to carry on from here, be sure to re-read my disclaimer at the top of my post.
There are 3 DIY possible fixes for the WiFi problem - none is guaranteed. I will describe them from the most harmless to the most kamikaze/deadliest. All of them will require you to open your device; if you are not careful and damage any of the components inside, you will end up with a worse device than before - but hey, don't say I didn't warn you.
At this point we assume that the cause of the problem is a faulty solder joint of your WiFi IC. The goal is to try to restore that solder joint. To do that, you will have to:
I. Open your device
II. Find your main board and separate it from all connected plugs
III. Find / identify the WiFi IC chip on the main board. I recommend searching for a service manual for your device, or/and searching for a disassembly video for your device; you need to know which one of the chips on the main board is the WiFi one.
Once you have identified your WiFi chip, you have 3 options, which you may combine with each other, but I recommend to try them out one-by-one as follows:
6.a Sellotape / Scotch tape
You need to make sure that your WiFi chip is pressed against the main board (ideally, this ensures the broken contacts touch each other, solving the problem). The best way to achieve this, is to attach a series of tape strips on the top of the WiFi chip, causing it to be pressed against the main board by the surrounding cover/hull once you reassemble/close the device. The tape strips are just a suggestion, do whatever you find convenient as long as you ensure that the chip is pushed against the board at all times.
This method may solve the WiFi problem already. When you turn your device back on, give it some time (5-10 minutes) and reboot it a few times if the problem still persists. My own WiFi didn't function right away, but after a while it finally recovered - hurray!
6.b Refrigerator / Freezer
Instead of using the tape as described in 6.a, you may first try to put your motherboard in a fridge for a few hours/days. But make sure to put it there in a plastic bag, and avoid moisture as much as you can, specially when taking it out of the fridge. Make sure its completely dry before reassembling your device!
By the way, try the refrigerator option BEFORE you try the freezer option!
6.c Oven
If everything else fails, the oven might be your last chance. This is not a joke, but as you probably can assume, it is "All-In" i.e. highly risky. The theory behind this is that high temperature will cause defective solder joints to reflow, reconnecting and thus fixing the problem.
You should only try this as a matter of last ressort. Be warned that you may fully destroy your main board, and there is a high chance that you will. Also, you may cause serious injury to yourself or others. Make sure you make backups of your data first. DO NOT BAKE THE WHOLE DEVICE, ONLY THE MAIN BOARD. DO NOT BAKE THE BATTERY!!
If you are still reading:
I. pre-heat your oven to 385° Fahrenheit (196° Celsius)
II. put your main board in the oven, bake it there for 7 minutes
III. remove from the oven, let it cool down until every component of the board has room temperature
Finally, here is a video of a guy doing a similar thing, but with a heat gun:
h ttps://w ww.youtube.com/watch?v=A4n0j3uaS7E
Ok, this is all, I hope I could help you.
Good luck!
Summary
Hello all,
first of all, I want to thank brysclar and xbing6 for their valuable feedback! Thanks a lot guys! :good:
Now, in an effort to update this thread and in an effort of trying to summarize it in fewer words (my disclaimer above applies!):
- The described problem seems to affect mainly (all kinds of) LG devices
- The issue seems to be caused by a defective soldering of the Wi-Fi chip on the main board
- The defect seems to be induced by dropping or/and overheating the device; recharging the battery, big/long app or android updates or the flashing of custom roms could cause excessive heating
- brysclar pointed out that replacing the battery might solve the problem (I haven't tried this out myself, so I can neither deny nor confirm this)
- My recommended solution is 6.a - applying pressure on the Wi-Fi chip, pushing it against the main board, using tape stripes
- There is a video of a brasilean guy doing some similar, but using pieces of an old credit card instead of tape strips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJkdva2iOag BUT PLEASE NOTE THAT HE IS APPLYING THE PRESSURE ON A RANDOM SPOT, NOT DIRECTLY TO THE WIFI CHIP! It *may* work for you, but if it doesn't, find/identify your Wi-Fi chip and apply the pressure there
- If everything else fails, and only as a matter of last ressort, you may try what I have written in 6.c
So... this thread has over 500 views, but not one single reply.
Guys... what has your experience been? Have you tried anything out from the posts above, and if so, what was the result? Did it help you? Do you recommend anything? Has something else, not written here, worked for you?
There are a lot of people out there having the same problem. It would be great if you could give any feedback, share anything that helps the community.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I honestly didn't see this post before. You really covered every detail very well. So far, returning my G3 to stock and replacing the battery has fixed it for me. Weird. I know. I did try 90% of the things on your "things that don't work" list and you are correct. They don't work.
wlanmac 02/00/00/00/00, Bluetooth is OK
Hey, i just got an LG LS990 with same Wifi issue and i'm ready to try so WITNESS ME!
Thanks for an amazing and detailed post lml
Simply awesome.
I have similar issue with my Nexus 5x. It is QCA6174 hw 3.2 chip, lspci does not detect this chip any more. I am going to do a little bit investigation from device driver (cnss) perspective. It enables one GPIO to provide power to this WiFi chip, I will try read back this GPIO status to see if it is enabled. I do not have the schematics, I do not know how to check if power is supplied to this wifi chip.
lspci used to show below:
$ ./lspci
00:00.0 PCI bridge: Airgo Networks Inc Device 0300 (rev ff)
01:00.0 Network controller: Atheros Communications Inc. Device 003e (rev ff) (this is qca6174)
If kernel driver investigation does not reveal anything helpful, I will ask other guys to replace the chip.
I thought it is because of vendor partition is accidentally wiped out, maybe it is unlikely.
---------- Post added at 08:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:40 PM ----------
As Bluetooth can not be turned either, I am tending to think this is hardware related as well. As described previously, I will see if I can check that gpio status.
investigating
xbing6 said:
I have similar issue with my Nexus 5x.
(...)
I am going to do a little bit investigation
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi xbing, and thank you for your feedback! :good:
I am really curious and looking forward to hear the results of your investigation! I believe that in your case, too, the Wi-Fi/BT chip is not being supplied correctly due to a defective soldering. Note that I don't think that the chip itself is defective, only the contacts between the chip and the main board. So, before replacing the chip, I'd recommend to first try what I've written in 6.a (or check my update/summary above).
Keep us posted about everything you find out!
Sprint declined to fix my LS990 due to "water damage" being the reason for it not working, and wanted to charge me a $150 deductible for a $100 phone. Shimming the WiFi chip against the metal covering with some thermal pad I had lying around and adding a bit of sticky foam on top of the ribbon cable for the camera worked great! Much thanks!
Tomcat5 said:
Sprint declined to fix my LS990 due to "water damage" being the reason for it not working, and wanted to charge me a $150 deductible for a $100 phone. Shimming the WiFi chip against the metal covering with some thermal pad I had lying around and adding a bit of sticky foam on top of the ribbon cable for the camera worked great! Much thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any idea if thermal paste/grease could work?
unlikely
NavHur said:
Any idea if thermal paste/grease could work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi NavHur,
since the problem is mostly caused by a loose Wi-Fi chip, respectively a defective solder joint, using thermal paste or grease is unlikely to help; again, what you need to do is to have your Wi-Fi chip pushed against your main board. You can use your imagination on how to accomplish this; what Tomcat5 described he did ultimately led to exactly having his chip being pressed against the board.
Of course you are free to try whatever you want - if you find new solutions please post some feedback.
Good luck.
NimbleWeasel said:
Hi NavHur,
since the problem is mostly caused by a loose Wi-Fi chip, respectively a defective solder joint, using thermal paste or grease is unlikely to help; again, what you need to do is to have your Wi-Fi chip pushed against your main board. You can use your imagination on how to accomplish this; what Tomcat5 described he did ultimately led to exactly having his chip being pressed against the board.
Of course you are free to try whatever you want - if you find new solutions please post some feedback.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks you so much, I placed a small piece of plastic above the wifi chip and one next to the camera lens. Now the wifi works fine. However my screen was pushed up so it bended a little. The faulty thing was my battery, not the added plastic. I compared mine with the one of a friend, mine was 1 mm bigger. (also with the battery of my friend's g3 the screen was fine)
I'll be changing it soon.
same problem as u but sometimes wifi works(mainly fully charged) and sometimes dont
i have lg g2 D802 model. It had a wifi problem as u shown in your videos,my phone also behaves same like yours but sometimes it works normally like while charging,works like 2 or 3 times a day(for 5-10 min).please tell me whether my phone got ic problem or software issue
Pratap94 said:
i have lg g2 D802 model. It had a wifi problem as u shown in your videos,my phone also behaves same like yours but sometimes it works normally like while charging,works like 2 or 3 times a day(for 5-10 min).please tell me whether my phone got ic problem or software issue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Pratap94,
nobody, neither here in this forum nor elsewhere in the internet, will be able to give you a reliable answer without having a *physical* look at your phone. Nobody.
However, I can give you my opinion, based on the stuff you wrote: The fact that it works normally sometimes, specially while charging (probably it heats up in the process?), indeed seems to indicate a hardware issue. I believe you have a loose Wi-Fi chip i.e. a defective solder joint, like I had on my LG G2 D802 as well. I solved my problem by doing the stuff I described in 6.a.
Good luck.
Thank you so much
NimbleWeasel said:
Hello all,
first of all, I want to thank brysclar and xbing6 for their valuable feedback! Thanks a lot guys! :good:
Problem solved good bless you!! the problem is fix in that youtube video XD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly step 6.a did not help me. Well, it worked for first 5-10 minutes and then back again.
Olzhas18 said:
Sadly step 6.a did not help me. Well, it worked for first 5-10 minutes and then back again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Olzhas18,
that might be an indication that your WiFi chip is still a bit loose and is not sitting tight enough on the main board. On LG G2, it is difficult to push the chip against the board because it's covered by a metal cover...
Also, did you check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJkdva2iOag ?
Good luck!
NimbleWeasel said:
Hi Olzhas18,
that might be an indication that your WiFi chip is still a bit loose and is not sitting tight enough on the main board. On LG G2, it is difficult to push the chip against the board because it's covered by a metal cover...
Also, did you check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJkdva2iOag ?
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you this tip and this whole thread. I have seen this video, but still the same effect. 5-10 minutes, I can rean some news and back to flashing. I'm going to buy Huawei Honor 8 soon, it was the last chance to recover my G4. I doubt I will purchase any other phone from LG.
Same boat
But bluetooth working
In cm roms also wifi tethring can be onn
But u cnt turn onn wifi
I had the same issue, can't turn on Wifi after factory reset.
I turn off my device off after one hour and reboot wifi was OK but when I want to upgrade some apps iwifi turn of again and my phone reboot with no SIM card.
I do "6.a Sellotape / Scotch tape" + a creedit card cut with this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_0jzp65eLY#t=73.319872
My LG G2 works fine
Hi all,
I've been running my Xtrons unit for a while now, with Malay v2 Android 8 for a few months. Everything used to work great, but since last week (without changing anything) my USB connection works crappy. My USB with music and DAB are connected directly through the two USB connections at the rear with an extension. They both stopped working suddenly, but the USB stick I have connected still has its power LED on. So there is power to it.
A few reboots later it worked again, but the next day it was gone again. I then checked the MCU settings and disabled PVR USB (I believe), and it worked again after a reboot. When it works, it works great by the way. The next day it still worked, so I was thinking I solved it.
However, the same afternoon same issue... Few minutes later (without a reboot) it worked again... Tried to disconnect everything and plug in either the DAB or the USB stick, but same result.
I strongly think its a software issue since I can 'solve' it with rebooting it sometimes. Anyone ever had something like this?
No one? Same problem today. Started my car and no USB whatsoever. 10 minutes later without doing anything everything worked fine for the remaining part of my journey to work.
Is it a "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) i think were having issues woth the usb controller.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...icane-px5-oreo-wifi-bluetooth-waking-t3852206
tw39515 said:
Is it a "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) i think were having issues woth the usb controller.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...icane-px5-oreo-wifi-bluetooth-waking-t3852206
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a GS unit. Not sure if they're the same perhaps. Weird that it suddenly appeared.
I have the same issue.
when I connect USB/64GB and 3G dongle USB constantly reconnects. I'm on dasaita px5/4GB
1st up and not to be one of the thread patrol guys we seem to have running round the Android auto forums..
But general help questions like this should be in the QA area..
Maybe mods should shift it..
But to answer the question with a bit of experience lately..
In my USB thread on SSD's and the USB M2 casing I have used.. I found a similar thing going on with the USB ports..
As reported there.. plug in the M2 SSD (which of course is plugged into the controller in the housing)
And it's seemily pulling too much power as it affected the ability for a GPS lock..
Unplug it and GPS works..
My thinking there is as said..to me it is like it is either a software glitch and or power interruption. I am leaning more towards the power theory.
There is a bit of reading around on USB port burn out on some of the boards.. so it's almost like a case of being careful on actually plugging in to much to ...
In my case 3 USB ports..
This does bring up another point that has been bothering me the last few days as I hunt for a better storage situation..
My reading on 128g USBs via the comments section is showing up extremely hot usb's.. thus it's something to think about . As in these things in a glove compartment could end up being a fire hazard..
And or even in the case here, causing sort of interference back through the system..
Some of the more electronically minded techies with the right testing equipment would be able to have more input.. and I can bet you that the engineers in the factories making these things are not talking or reporting back to their bosses anything along these lines.. as they will be all about protecting thier jobs.. and no one is going to want to put thier hand up and say.. hey..I think we have a problem..
tw39515 said:
Is it a "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) i think were having issues woth the usb controller.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...icane-px5-oreo-wifi-bluetooth-waking-t3852206
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried the 'fix' from here, which should restart the usb hub, but all it does it restart the wifi, as can be seen in the code. The problem is that USB worked fine for me now twice while testing. So couldn't test if the 'fix' actually does help.
I can't seem to get Tasker to run with root... It says that my device is not rooted, although other apps give the SuperSU pop-up that ask for root access...
Tried the .sh file in the other tried, and an app to reset the USB hub, but no luck. Rebooting a few minutes later worked.
I have the same issue. I figured out that it is temperature related. When the outside temperature is ABOVE 11-12°C the USB works fine. When its colder It constantly reconnect every 20(?) Seconds. When the Car Heat Up enough the Error is gone again.
Still no solution for my issue. Also have it in the nice (12-14 degrees C) weather in the past few days. What else can I try before I bin it and go to another HU?
edit: Oh, and how can I get this to hardware?
Bose321 said:
Still no solution for my issue. Also have it in the nice (12-14 degrees C) weather in the past few days. What else can I try before I bin it and go to another HU?
edit: Oh, and how can I get this to hardware?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We need to replace the USB Controller Chip GL850 to GL852. You can get the Chip in AliExpress.
€ 3,47 11%OFF | 5 stücke GL852 GL852G USB hauptsteuerspan SSOP-28 SMD
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cPrldP21
EDGN said:
We need to replace the USB Controller Chip GL850 to GL852. You can get the Chip in AliExpress.
€ 3,47 11%OFF | 5 stücke GL852 GL852G USB hauptsteuerspan SSOP-28 SMD
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cPrldP21
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I've seen that, but it's too small for me to try. I'm not that great in soldering, so don't want to ruin my unit haha.
Install the Hal9k Rom, where you can restart the internal USB hub on startup and then USB devices will work again.
Ati_gangster said:
Install the Hal9k Rom, where you can restart the internal USB hub on startup and then USB devices will work again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already tried that, and I have the Malaysk ROM which also has the 'fix'. Also tried to run it manually. Also have a USB Controller app that can do this.
Worked a few times but doesn't anymore now.
check this thread
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...x5-mcte-low-temperature-fix-wifi-usb-t3868388
there are at least two solutions. one is mentioned before - to swap the GL850 chip. second is not checked yet.
mahtew said:
check this thread
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...x5-mcte-low-temperature-fix-wifi-usb-t3868388
there are at least two solutions. one is mentioned before - to swap the GL850 chip. second is not checked yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already tried the second 'solution'. Didn't work for me.
My best bet now is the new chip. I've ordered 5 of them, gonna check if I can solder it, or let it be soldered once it's arrived.
Bose321 said:
Already tried the second 'solution'. Didn't work for me.
My best bet now is the new chip. I've ordered 5 of them, gonna check if I can solder it, or let it be soldered once it's arrived.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's good feedback (that second method doesn't work ). also ordered three chips and going for swap.
i have other issues though. when using USB dongle or copying files from usb to internal mem my screen is blinking (like darker-brighter in fast pace).
i hope that swap will help with this issue also
mahtew said:
It's good feedback (that second method doesn't work ). also ordered three chips and going for swap.
i have other issues though. when using USB dongle or copying files from usb to internal mem my screen is blinking (like darker-brighter in fast pace).
i hope that swap will help with this issue also
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds weird as well! Good luck.
My unit disconnect USB with vibrations on the road. I also try replace USB chip.
karolp1993 said:
My unit disconnect USB with vibrations on the road. I also try replace USB chip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you need to see very closely in where the usb cable is welded in the morherboard and try to find cold weldings. I had same problems with my pumpkin and when i completely dissasemble it i saw a ton of cold welding and i reweld everything and its rock solid now.