I dropped it a few weeks ago and the screen is toast along with the lcd and digitizer. I have it taken apart and I was wondering - what are the chances it will work again? I have debugging enabled and ended up trying to use androidscreencast java program. It will read the internal memory but won't display a screen. Also, the HDMI out occasionally works but it's a little rocky.
My question is this: Is it possible it's fried, or is there a possibility that maybe it is malfunctioning because the digitizer is completely ruined along with the LCD? I have everything still attached including the camera(s).
Right now the screen lights up (though you can't see anything) but my computer won't detect it when plugged in nor will it output HDMI to my TV =(.
Should I spend the money to get a new lcd/digitizer/screen, or should I just give up? I JUST got this phone (no insurance)
How would it be fried if you only dropped it?
As for anything else, for HDMI I have to enable by using the SCREEN, so that might be why you can't use it when connected to your TV.
And for the connection to your computer, mine detects that I have it plugged it, but it doesn't let me transfer files to or from without enabling mass storage, which is again done by touching the SCREEN.
On a side note, I broke the LCD on my Vibrant twice, everything worked fine, just had to replace the screen. Don't know about this phone, but if the phone turns on, then chances are everything is fine. Unless its a software related, such as being bricked.
Sent from my LG-P999 using XDA
Related
I've got a transformer, and the screen doesn't appear to be working. My boyfriend bought it the first day it came out, dropped it, was able to play with it a bit. The battery died and he set it to charge, and after that the screen wouldn't work. The screen itself is fine, it just isn't displaying anything (He can't take it back for a warranty repair, because he threw out the receipt, that's why he threw it to me to look at).
When you plug it into a computer, the computer recognizes it and you can browse the files on it. When you use the hdmi cable to plug it into the tv you can see the screen of the tablet on the tv and you can use it, so it's not anything wrong with inside workings of the tablet itself. I took it apart and everything looked alright on the inside to me, nothing rattling around, and all the connections appeared to be connected tightly. I was able to see the slide to unlock symbol on the screen by shining a flash light directly on it while the unit was on, but it was really faint and hard to see.
Does anyone know what the problem could be? In a normal laptop I would say it's the inverter, but I'm not really sure if tablets use technology like that. I'm a bit at a loss here for what the problem could be and how to fix it.
Pretty close i would say its the digitizer though you will need to rma it to get it fixed
Screens break in many different ways, just because there is no crack or leaking LCD look to it doesn't mean its fine
I would place my bets on the screen being damaged, although the board could have cracked or a solder joint could have come lose or a tiny tear in the ribbon cable
Screen is the most fragile though
I had the same problem, and after opening the TF everything looked fine too. It was not. What I did was to unplug all the cables and plug them all again. Problem solved.
Probably the screen cable got a little loose after the drop.
Good luck.
I have searched for similar issues, nothing posted. My phone went swimming with me the other day, DOH!
I have thoroughly dried the unit in rice/dehydration powder (works REALLY well by the way). Unit is completely dry, boots up, recognizes sdcard, radios work etc.
Unfortunately the touch screen doesn't work. I have read that the unit may simply need to be recalibrated. I have carefully disassembled the unit cleaned and checked all leads etc. The unit again reboots, everything works but touch screen.
I am thinking about odin new image to see if it recalibrates screen solves problem, any thoughts advice etc?
Might have to replace the lcd
Sent from my MIUI powered S3 thanks to StrumerJohn and using Tapatalk 4. Respect My Authoritah!
A friend if mine experienced the same problem. And now none of the speakers work nor does Bluetooth. Phone is also going in to safe mode quite often. Is it fixable? I've repaired plenty of iPhones, and did remove the back to try to disconnect and reconnect the flex cables to see if that would work but to no avail.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
Did you trip the water sensor? I had a similar issue, did not trip the sensor though. I tried some of the recal methods, not sure off the top of my head but i think you have to hold your finger for a certain amount of time in one of the corner, I am sure someone will know how to do it.
However what I ended up needing to do since the re-cal didnt work. I bought a usb otg adapter to connect a mouse to my phone, followed the steps to return it to stock, odin, unroot, triangle away etc, and sent it back to verizon for a replacement with no problems at all.
Same issue:
Phone was soaking in my gym bag because one of my water bottles leaked. It was in there for a good 10 minutes. I took it out. Dried it and put it in rice asap. 24 hours later I take it out and it boots fine, can connect to my computer move files everything. However, the touch screen will not work. Any tips for self repair? Will leaving it in rice longer fix my issue?
So I broke my digitizer glass a few weeks ago. I ordered a new digitizer off ebay... I made sure I ordered the correct version (it was the "no model version" or whatever). Installed it which was really annoying because of all the nasty glue.
Now I can't get the tablet to turn on at all. Before at least the LCD was functional. The red charging light comes on when I plug in the charger but that's it.
Any way I accidentally broke a cable or something when I was taking it apart? I checked it all and everything seems fine... I really don't know what to do.
Assuming I can't get it fixed, think I could sell the broken tablet for anything?
Thanks!
zaner123 said:
So I broke my digitizer glass a few weeks ago. I ordered a new digitizer off ebay... I made sure I ordered the correct version (it was the "no model version" or whatever). Installed it which was really annoying because of all the nasty glue.
Now I can't get the tablet to turn on at all. Before at least the LCD was functional. The red charging light comes on when I plug in the charger but that's it.
Any way I accidentally broke a cable or something when I was taking it apart? I checked it all and everything seems fine... I really don't know what to do.
Assuming I can't get it fixed, think I could sell the broken tablet for anything?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course you can resell the tab in its current state. Quickly or slowly depending on the asking price. But before doing that, you should check one more time. The fastest way is plug it to a TV monitor via the micro HDMI port. If it comes on, at least you know the system is working except for the video. Past that, there can only be two possibilities. (1) Bad lcd: something might have happened when you pried it off the broken digitizer; and/or (2) the video cable is bad, or improperly connected - by that, I mean you need to make sure it fits all the way in at both ends (mainboard & LCD). Check connection with a magnifying glass, You won't believe how many times people forget to reconnect the cable or connect it wrong. Lastly, if you did turn the service switch off, make sure it's turned on again. Good luck.
LCD to Mainboard connection...can it be connected "wrong"? Or simply not as snug as it should be?
Also, what is the service switch?
zaner123 said:
LCD to Mainboard connection...can it be connected "wrong"? Or simply not as snug as it should be?
Also, what is the service switch?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's the link to the relevant thread. Search for the necessary information within it. The cable that goes from LCD to mainboard is labeled: "MB" end goes to mainboard. The service switch is located at the top of the mainboard looking from the back, to the left of the power button ribbon (top right corner of tab), and is labeled "on"/"off". You should turn it off before doing anything. It cuts off all current to the boards and prevents accidental shortcircuitings. If you don't and mess around with the digitizer board, you might burn a fuse that controls the dig's operations. But this is for later. Go to the thread and browse it.
Has anyone encountered the following issues with their SHIELD?
Mine was working just fine after updating to 4.3 and rooting with CWM. I performed multiple reboots in this configuration, played games, etc. - everything was fine.
I had a pretty busy weekend so didn't touch the SHIELD at all for a few days. When I got back:
When I opened it up, I saw the screen backlight turn on but nothing displayed on the screen. The SHIELD button was glowing green.
I long-pressed the SHIELD button to turn off the device. When I turn it back on, I get a white screen that is dark around the edges (mostly vignetting around the corners). The brightness of the screen here and degree of vignetting seem to change every time I try and turn on the device.
If I enter fastboot mode via the key combo, the same thing happens - white vignetted screen. The device DOES appear to enumerate as a fastboot device on my PC in this configuration.
At one point I figured it might be due to a low battery, so plugged it into the charger. 30 minutes later, when I opened the lid, I actually came up to a launcher screen with 65% battery.
However, after closing the lid and reopening it again - black screen again, with the "white vignette of death" coming back if I reboot.
Has anyone else seen similar behavior? Searching results in no one complaining about a white screen like this, at least not on this device.
Screen of Death
This just happened to me today. Did you find a fix for this problem?
Entropy512 said:
Has anyone encountered the following issues with their SHIELD?
Mine was working just fine after updating to 4.3 and rooting with CWM. I performed multiple reboots in this configuration, played games, etc. - everything was fine.
I had a pretty busy weekend so didn't touch the SHIELD at all for a few days. When I got back:
When I opened it up, I saw the screen backlight turn on but nothing displayed on the screen. The SHIELD button was glowing green.
I long-pressed the SHIELD button to turn off the device. When I turn it back on, I get a white screen that is dark around the edges (mostly vignetting around the corners). The brightness of the screen here and degree of vignetting seem to change every time I try and turn on the device.
If I enter fastboot mode via the key combo, the same thing happens - white vignetted screen. The device DOES appear to enumerate as a fastboot device on my PC in this configuration.
At one point I figured it might be due to a low battery, so plugged it into the charger. 30 minutes later, when I opened the lid, I actually came up to a launcher screen with 65% battery.
However, after closing the lid and reopening it again - black screen again, with the "white vignette of death" coming back if I reboot.
Has anyone else seen similar behavior? Searching results in no one complaining about a white screen like this, at least not on this device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might be just bad luck for me.....
nmerc001 said:
This just happened to me today. Did you find a fix for this problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So ive already gotten two shields and they both got the same effect. my guess is the ribbon cable when you open and close the screen, is wearing off? because when i open my shield in a certain way, it works... when i open it at around 100 degrees or open correctly then tilt it forward, the screen tears and slowly shows the white screen. I do admit that i open and close the screen more than i should, but i do it carefully. Ill look over at the ifixit site to see how the cable is connected to the board.
This is what has me worried about buying a shield, the ribbon cable, did you confirmed this was the problem?
DJNinja1625 said:
So ive already gotten two shields and they both got the same effect. my guess is the ribbon cable when you open and close the screen, is wearing off? because when i open my shield in a certain way, it works... when i open it at around 100 degrees or open correctly then tilt it forward, the screen tears and slowly shows the white screen. I do admit that i open and close the screen more than i should, but i do it carefully. Ill look over at the ifixit site to see how the cable is connected to the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am a tech by trade and bought one of ebay for 40 bucks cuz it would not power up so the guy claimed. After getting it I found the issue was actually the display was not coming on and once it did. Then went out in a few moments. Connect it to HDMI and the unit runs all day of you want to be cabled. ]
So I tore it down and found that the issue is the flex cable. The problem is that the flex cable is part of the LCD and you cannot just replace the cable. Also since the unit is so new there are no sources as of yet to by the LCD from.
So if you have this issue I suggest just holding out till a source of LCD's at hopefully a reasonable price become available.
So it's soldered to the screen and not replacable right?
nex86 said:
So it's soldered to the screen and not replacable right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is correct.. The flex cable is actually an integral part of the display and even has much of the driver circuitry placed right on it at the LCD. In the business we call it a flex circuit since it is a flexible circuit board and not just a cable.
I pretty much know what you mean.
On my old Archos Gamepad I ripped the flex that connected the left side of the controler to the logic board by accident.
It was a pain in the ass to fix it by soldering seperate wires, I guess it's impossible to do this with the display connection in the Shield.
nex86 said:
I pretty much know what you mean.
On my old Archos Gamepad I ripped the flex that connected the left side of the controler to the logic board by accident.
It was a pain in the ass to fix it by soldering seperate wires, I guess it's impossible to do this with the display connection in the Shield.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might be possible if you used 32 gauge magnet wire. It is enamel coated so it won't short, but it to will break over time.
hi, flash factory image
Sent from my LT25i using XDA Free mobile app
dragxdk said:
hi, flash factory image
Sent from my LT25i using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How are you supposed to flash a factory image when the screen won't let you see what you are doing? When you are in the bootloader screen the HDMI drivers are not loaded yet so not even hooking it to an external monitor will work. You might want to fully read and understand the problem next time before offering advice.:good:
fastboot tells you if you were sucessful or not.
just for relocking the bootloader you have to do some button combinations, you can look up some tutorial videos to see what you have to press.
nex86 said:
fastboot tells you if you were sucessful or not.
just for relocking the bootloader you have to do some button combinations, you can look up some tutorial videos to see what you have to press.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Even still, it is not a software problem that causes this. I know because if I move my display to a certain angle it will start to work sometimes. A software issue would not cause this. I also have taken my apart since I am a tech and can actually see the traces in the flex cable that have broken..
Any device with a folding display is a bad idea and a failure waiting to happen. Flex cables have a limited number of flex cycles that is even usually published. So the idea of using them in a device that may get heavy use is just dumb.
Solarenemy68 said:
Any device with a folding display is a bad idea and a failure waiting to happen. Flex cables have a limited number of flex cycles that is even usually published. So the idea of using them in a device that may get heavy use is just dumb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, they used flex in the Nintendo DS and 3Ds as well, but they don't break that fast.
I find it still better if they have used recular cables like what they use for Laptops.
Solarenemy68 said:
Even still, it is not a software problem that causes this. I know because if I move my display to a certain angle it will start to work sometimes. A software issue would not cause this. I also have taken my apart since I am a tech and can actually see the traces in the flex cable that have broken..
Any device with a folding display is a bad idea and a failure waiting to happen. Flex cables have a limited number of flex cycles that is even usually published. So the idea of using them in a device that may get heavy use is just dumb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you are saying is the EXACT same thing that happened to my SHIELD. I can tell its a hardware problem because when I tilted my screen it would work, and sometimes it wouldn't. Now my SHIELD's display does not even show any signs of picture. HDMI still works, however. Like one of the previous posts said, there is not a screen available for purchase, so my next step is NVIDIA customer support. Maybe if they would sell these screens, I wouldn't even have to have a warranty claim. sigh.
White screen of death?
yes mine too same as
i tried connecting my via HDMI from power cable to large HDMI to plug it works fine on my galaxy tab
thought id be clever try it on nvidia shield never worked sould of bought mini HDMI so now White screen of death
i cant get into recovery or anything i had this on charge for 12 hrs yesterday still no green button on charge only orange .. i too cant find anything on internet to help with this White screen of death situation
Solarenemy68 said:
How are you supposed to flash a factory image when the screen won't let you see what you are doing? When you are in the bootloader screen the HDMI drivers are not loaded yet so not even hooking it to an external monitor will work. You might want to fully read and understand the problem next time before offering advice.:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This. I'm having a similar issue. My wife's SHIELD has an unresponsive touch screen. So I tried to flash the factory image (It was never rooted to begin with) and I got the white screen issue when in the bootloader screen. I have to keep restarting it to get the screen to show up as normal when the device boots to the home screen. But the bootloader screen is still blank and white. I was able to watch a video and mimick the steps to flash the factory image but that did not fix the issue. It's definitely a hardware issue. I live in Cincinnati OH, anywhere I can go to have this fixed? I have a portable myself and i know this is going to happen to mine soon.
Phone was at about 70 % plugged in at the time.
I went to check on something and the screen wouldn't turn on. It vibrates when I hold down the power buttons.
Initially I thought it was corrupted somehow so I flashed it using adb, fastboot command. I think I've flashed it properly . I even did it again for the heck of it using wugfresh. I can see it on the PC as Nexus 5.
Now I realize that it's probably the screen. It was dropped in water a few months ago but it's been okay since I replaced the battery. I pull the battery and plugged it in, there was no white battery charging indicator.
Any suggestions ?
Thanks.
Disassemble phone to check morherboard and screen for corrosion. Try to clean the connection points if possible. Depending on the problem you may have to buy a new screen or motherboard or both.
Can you see the internal storage through your computer and manipulate files and whatnot?
One thing you can try that isn't intrusive is to try a Slimport adapter and seeing if you can get the screen to show on a TV/monitor. If you can, that pretty much confirms it's the screen, and you can proceed to do what the above post suggests.
bitdomo said:
Disassemble phone to check morherboard and screen for corrosion. Try to clean the connection points if possible. Depending on the problem you may have to buy a new screen or motherboard or both.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I took it apart and noticed a tiny bit of corrosion through the magnifying glass and cleaned as best as I could.
Johmama said:
Can you see the internal storage through your computer and manipulate files and whatnot?
One thing you can try that isn't intrusive is to try a Slimport adapter and seeing if you can get the screen to show on a TV/monitor. If you can, that pretty much confirms it's the screen, and you can proceed to do what the above post suggests.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can see the internal storage. There's nothing on it because I did a stock re-install but I can see all the folders.
The Slimport adapter is a good idea to confirm if it's a screen issue. I'll look into it to see if it works just by plugging it in . If so, I'll grab one off e-flea.