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[Q] 1.2 amp charger work on gtablet

I have a 12 volt 1.2 amp charger that fits into the DC in Jack. Can I use this to charge the Gtablet in an emergency (if I lost or broke my original charger) without damaging my Gtab? Want some expert opinions before I make the attempt. Rather be safe than sorry. Thanks in advance.

I'm no expert, but a little math tells you that the charger that you have will only output 14.4 watts VxA=W (12Vx1.2A=14.4W). Since the G-Tab is rated at 12V,2A or 24W you will be under powering it. If I remember correctly a 24V1A supply would work just fine as the output is still 24W. A 12V3A charger would work just as well, as it is designed to feed up to 36W. In this case it would only feed the 24W that the G-Tab pulls.
In the end it would still power the device, however the battery charging would come to a crawl as the the available output is 60% of the rated charger.
I'd be cautious though, as your 1.2A charger may get really hot trying to feed the G-Tab.
I'm sure that someone else can explain this more elegantly than I just did.

Given the lack of voltage it may not work at all. You need enough voltage to overcome any resistance in the circuit or the result is a lot of nothing, or just heat. Been awhile since electronics school though.
Sent from the awesome ZTab

Phantom_Midge said:
I'm no expert, but a little math tells you that the charger that you have will only output 14.4 watts VxA=W (12Vx1.2A=14.4W). Since the G-Tab is rated at 12V,2A or 24W you will be under powering it. If I remember correctly a 24V1A supply would work just fine as the output is still 24W. A 12V3A charger would work just as well, as it is designed to feed up to 36W. In this case it would only feed the 24W that the G-Tab pulls.
In the end it would still power the device, however the battery charging would come to a crawl as the the available output is 60% of the rated charger.
I'd be cautious though, as your 1.2A charger may get really hot trying to feed the G-Tab.
I'm sure that someone else can explain this more elegantly than I just did.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't be charging while using the Gtab. It would be powered off so there would be no drain and should only be charging. In my layman thinking, it would be a safe charge but only at a slower time rate than a 2 amp charge. If it won't damage my Grab, I'll try it with it powered off. Is this a safe go?

I have one from a tv. It does not work. It makes the charging indicator flicker...

Phantom_Midge said:
I'm no expert,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Given the nature of electricity, always a good idea to know what you're talking about before you recommend a course of action, since improper advice can result in death and destruction of equipment. A two-lecture treatment of electricity in physics class that basically boils down to V=IR and P=VI is not sufficient for giving advice about things like this.
Phantom_Midge said:
but a little math tells you that the charger that you have will only output 14.4 watts VxA=W (12Vx1.2A=14.4W). Since the G-Tab is rated at 12V,2A or 24W you will be under powering it. If I remember correctly a 24V1A supply would work just fine as the output is still 24W. A 12V3A charger would work just as well, as it is designed to feed up to 36W. In this case it would only feed the 24W that the G-Tab pulls.
In the end it would still power the device, however the battery charging would come to a crawl as the the available output is 60% of the rated charger.
I'd be cautious though, as your 1.2A charger may get really hot trying to feed the G-Tab.
I'm sure that someone else can explain this more elegantly than I just did.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please do not plug a 24V charger into a device that is supposed to take 12V. Bad things are likely to happen. At best, the GTab has internal protection circuitry to shut things off and prevent internal damage. If not, you're going to ruin the battery or cause things to blow up. It's like plugging your 120V hair dryer into a 240V outlet in Europe. Much smoke to follow.
Power (wattage) is not the relevant issue here. There are actually quite a few things that matter, but for the purposes of this discussion, voltage is the most important one. A 12V 1.2A charger *may* not be able to supply enough power to both run and charge the GTab, but it is unlikely to cause problems. I don't know the internals of the GTab specifically, but my guess is that it regulates the charging current, meaning you could also probably get away with a 12V 3A charger, though if the internal circuitry of the GTab is poorly designed, that might shorten your battery life.
As to your specific concern about heat on the 1.2A charger, heat production is a function both of the efficiency of the particular charger and the amount of power it produces. It's likely the 1.2A charger wouldn't get as hot as the 2A charger, given that its power output is 60% as much, unless it was significantly less efficient. Assuming, of course, that both were operating at maximum power.

ByByIpad said:
I have a 12 volt 1.2 amp charger that fits into the DC in Jack. Can I use this to charge the Gtablet in an emergency (if I lost or broke my original charger) without damaging my Gtab? Want some expert opinions before I make the attempt. Rather be safe than sorry. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bottom Line, without all the Hype and Hyperbola....
Yeah, it'll work and destroy nothing, but will take longer to fully charge the battery.
Do not use the tab while it's connected.

ByByIpad said:
I have a 12 volt 1.2 amp charger that fits into the DC in Jack. Can I use this to charge the Gtablet in an emergency (if I lost or broke my original charger) without damaging my Gtab? Want some expert opinions before I make the attempt. Rather be safe than sorry. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't use it. The GTab expects 2 amps to be available, and will not know to throttle the charge back to 1.2. You risk overheating or otherwise damaging the charger, which could then turn around and damage your GTab, depending on the charger's failure mode.
12v and at least 2 amp is what you need. More than 2amp is fine.
Jim

jmdearras said:
I wouldn't use it. The GTab expects 2 amps to be available, and will not know to throttle the charge back to 1.2. You risk overheating or otherwise damaging the charger, which could then turn around and damage your GTab, depending on the charger's failure mode.
12v and at least 2 amp is what you need. More than 2amp is fine.
Jim
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes.
Lithium Polymer batteries require a CV/CC charging scheme. This means "Constant Voltage" and "Constant Current". One after another. Without knowing how the charging circuit is setup, you COULD damage the battery or the charging circuit by not supplying the appropriate power to the circuit.
To summarize.
1.) NEVER use a higher voltage supply, unless you are 100% sure the internal power supplies can handle that voltage. 24VDC = most likely really bad
2.) NEVER use a power supply that is under the rated current of the device. For good quality external AC/DC bricks, it's usually not a concern. For cheaply made, haphazardly designed bricks (mostly from China), this can cause fire.
3.) You can ALWAYS use a brick that is rated at MORE current. That's available current, not "I'm going to shove this current down your throat". Typically, bricks rated at a higher current will supply the required current at a higher efficiency anyway, so pending you don't care about the size increase, it's better. They also tend to supply cleaner power (voltage really), which is always a good thing.
That concludes todays electronics seminar. Class dismissed.

[Q] Is the miniUSB non standard?

I tried plugging in my mini usb cables I have used for other phones but it does not fit. It looks like the opening on the MT is larger then the standard. Is anyone else noticing this?

I've used all my other ones fine. I use a blackberry mini usb to charge while I sleep, another blackberry cable to hook to my laptop at work, and the one that came with it at my home desktop. No problems for me.

All my chargers work fine as well.

It uses microusb, not mini. The standard ones work fine.
Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using XDA App

It's not the volts, it's the amps....
Just as an FYI, one thing to watch out for even though the USB plug is standard is that the power output can be different on different chargers. 5v is the USB standard, but the amperage can vary. I think the Max is 1A for the USB (2?) spec, but I'm not sure if or what the Min amperage is. The V/A output should be listed on the charger.
The plug that comes with the mt4gs is 5V-1A. When I've tried charging phones (e.g. Blackberry) in the past with a 5V-.2A charger, it has worked extremely poorly (half charge after 12+hours). I would expect similar results with the mt4gs.

websculling is right. Additionally, using the wrong amperage to charge significantly decreases the number of charges you get out of your battery before it fails. Stick to chargers that have the amperage the battery was optimally designed to accommodate.

_atlien_ said:
websculling is right. Additionally, using the wrong amperage to charge significantly decreases the number of charges you get out of your battery before it fails. Stick to chargers that have the amperage the battery was optimally designed to accommodate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So amperage is what matters with USB charger compatibility and not the voltage?
My wife's old feature phone came with a micro-usb charger so I'm trying to figure out if it will damage by MT4GS or the MY3GS I handed down to my wife.

fallenturtle said:
So amperage is what matters with USB charger compatibility and not the voltage?
My wife's old feature phone came with a micro-usb charger so I'm trying to figure out if it will damage by MT4GS or the MY3GS I handed down to my wife.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both are important.
Too high of a voltage and you'll burn up the battery or damage the charging circuit.
Too low of an amperage (blackberry chargers) and you'll wear out the battery much more quickly. Trickling in power like that to these kind of batteries that weren't designed to handle it that way 'ages' the cells and reduces their already less then impressive lifespan.
Battery tech is better then it was even a few short years ago, but these kind of batteries in this small of a package are barely efficient enough to be useful. A few more years and things will be a lot better, but for the time being you should really try to care for your battery as best as you can and not abuse it.
I'll post the link here to the XDA battery writeup I linked to in both the anker and mugen threads later on when I get back to a real computer and am not using a phone app to browse the forums.
(Because babysitting a door you just painted and can't close right away is such an engaging task...lol)
Sent from my Bulletproof_Doubleshot using xda premium

Blue6IX said:
Both are important.
Too high of a voltage and you'll burn up the battery or damage the charging circuit.
Too low of an amperage (blackberry chargers) and you'll wear out the battery much more quickly. Trickling in power like that to these kind of batteries that weren't designed to handle it that way 'ages' the cells and reduces their already less then impressive lifespan.
Battery tech is better then it was even a few short years ago, but these kind of batteries in this small of a package are barely efficient enough to be useful. A few more years and things will be a lot better, but for the time being you should really try to care for your battery as best as you can and not abuse it.
I'll post the link here to the XDA battery writeup I linked to in both the anker and mugen threads later on when I get back to a real computer and am not using a phone app to browse the forums.
(Because babysitting a door you just painted and can't close right away is such an engaging task...lol)
Sent from my Bulletproof_Doubleshot using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This particular adapter is 5.1V and .7A.

fallenturtle said:
This particular adapter is 5.1V and .7A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not too far out of spec, but I would rather let my battery die then use it, personally. Finding an AC adapter that is in spec is very easy and very cheap.
Something to note here is the doubleshot does not have a hardware regulated charging circuit inside the phone - this is the reason why it was rough with the early unofficial ClockworkMod recoveries and the source of their charging issues.
Knowing there is no hardware failsafe, it makes it that much easier to do permanent damage to the battery, device or both.
Do what you think is best, but just want you to have as much information as possible to base your decision on.

Blue6IX said:
That's not too far out of spec, but I would rather let my battery die then use it, personally. Finding an AC adapter that is in spec is very easy and very cheap.
Something to note here is the doubleshot does not have a hardware regulated charging circuit inside the phone - this is the reason why it was rough with the early unofficial ClockworkMod recoveries and the source of their charging issues.
Knowing there is no hardware failsafe, it makes it that much easier to do permanent damage to the battery, device or both.
Do what you think is best, but just want you to have as much information as possible to base your decision on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's good info to know. Do you know if Espresso is also lacking that hardware failsafe?

fallenturtle said:
That's good info to know. Do you know if Espresso is also lacking that hardware failsafe?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unsure - this is my first smart-phone, so I don't have the history of knowledge a lot of people don't realize they possess and am playing catch-up as quickly as I can.
I know a lot about this device, and the Nook Color, but anything else is pretty foreign to me at this time.

Blue6IX said:
Unsure - this is my first smart-phone, so I don't have the history of knowledge a lot of people don't realize they possess and am playing catch-up as quickly as I can.
I know a lot about this device, and the Nook Color, but anything else is pretty foreign to me at this time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since you're new to Android, download and read this guide.
Sent via smoke signal.

blackknightavalon said:
Since you're new to Android, download and read this guide.
Sent via smoke signal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That looks like a pretty helpful download. I don't have any social media accounts anywhere, so sometime later on i'll subscribe to get the link.
Thanks, I really appreciate you sharing that!

http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=669497
XDA write up on these types of batteries - the link I said i'd drop in this thread before.
Sorry, been busy around here, trying to find time to clean up all my loose ends.

Need some help with otg + charge mod

Dear XDA, i really need your help,
I am planning to make this (see thubnail)
i want to make a custom case for my htc one s. (I know it will be a little bigger but that's ok)
I want to charge my phone using a usb cable or a micro usb cable, and at the same time doing OTG. I don't know what resistor i will use yet (tips?)
Also add an extra battery. It is an old phone battery. So if i want to charge from the battery i need to stop the solar cell and guide the electricity through the 5v regulator to charge. What ya think?
I am new to modding so please comment cause i need a lot of help to make this one succeed!
Greetings, pro-one1000
sent from htc one s ville

Don't mean to be negative but I see a couple issues right of the bat. First, where are you going to get a 5 volt charger? I would guess most dc chargers are going to be 12, 24, or 36 volts. I don't think they'll run on significantly less. The solar panel is only going to output about one half of one watt. Assuming no friction loss or inefficiencies that would hardly slow your phone's discharge.
If you want to power the phone and hub I would suggest a small sealed lead acid battery. They're available in 12 volts in many sizes. Easily enough power to keep phone totally charged. Will work with cigarette lighter car chargers so you won't need to customize that part. Depending on the size it'll last a week to a month non-stop. Unfortunately, it probably won't fit in your pocket but if you carry a book bag or briefcase you could hide it there... I use a battery like this at work when I'm using a lot of phone battery and moving around too much to plug in.
Good luck with which ever route you choose!
Sent from my HTC One S using xda app-developers app

thanks
lampel said:
Don't mean to be negative but I see a couple issues right of the bat. First, where are you going to get a 5 volt charger? I would guess most dc chargers are going to be 12, 24, or 36 volts. I don't think they'll run on significantly less. The solar panel is only going to output about one half of one watt. Assuming no friction loss or inefficiencies that would hardly slow your phone's discharge.
If you want to power the phone and hub I would suggest a small sealed lead acid battery. They're available in 12 volts in many sizes. Easily enough power to keep phone totally charged. Will work with cigarette lighter car chargers so you won't need to customize that part. Depending on the size it'll last a week to a month non-stop. Unfortunately, it probably won't fit in your pocket but if you carry a book bag or briefcase you could hide it there... I use a battery like this at work when I'm using a lot of phone battery and moving around too much to plug in.
Good luck with which ever route you choose!
Sent from my HTC One S using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply!
First about the charger, i will use my 5v 1amp charger (micro usb) or an usb male to male usb cable from my pc to charge. So i'll be able to get a charger.
You're i think right about the solar panel, i need to find a better one indeed, trying to get one cheap on ebay! If i try to search for a "smal sealed lead acid battery" i get 40 dollar + big cases of batteries, could you please give a example in the form of an ebay-link?
Anyway thanks a lot and when i have ordered the parts i will try to upload the stuff!
Greetings

I'm assuming the 5v charger you're talking about it a car charger; which means it would have an input voltage of 12 - 14 and won't run on 3.7 (and even if it could run on the lower voltage the amperage would go up dramatically draining the usable power in the battery in minutes. And I wouldn't connect anything to a USB port for two reasons: first, if you connect two batteries in parallel (red to red and black to black) and they're not identical one will usually drain the other as they try and equalize (unless you isolate them from each other). Second, I don't think most USB ports (USB 3.0 i believe has provisions to receive power) are designed to receive power on a computer and your schematic doesn't include anything to prevent back feeding power to the computer.
There are many solar chargers I've seen that would give you the output you need - I've seen them designed to trickle charge RVs, boats, cars, and motorcycles - but I think they would be way to larger for what your looking for.
And I guess I should clarify what I meant by small... Was a bad choice of words for a cell phone forum, I guess. I meant small relative to other lead acid batteries; i.e. car or boat batteries. This is similiar to what I use:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12VOLT-5AMP...US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item589ef11aed
Attached is a pic of my batteries and the adapter that gives me a cigarette lighter type receptacle. And I use a spare motorcycle float charger to keep them charged. And because they're 12 volt batteries they'll power and accessory that is designed to run in a car.
I guess I should probably have asked what is your ultimate goal? And do you carry anything where you could stash the battery?
giesse1996 said:
Thanks for your reply!
First about the charger, i will use my 5v 1amp charger (micro usb) or an usb male to male usb cable from my pc to charge. So i'll be able to get a charger.
You're i think right about the solar panel, i need to find a better one indeed, trying to get one cheap on ebay! If i try to search for a "smal sealed lead acid battery" i get 40 dollar + big cases of batteries, could you please give a example in the form of an ebay-link?
Anyway thanks a lot and when i have ordered the parts i will try to upload the stuff!
Greetings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Thanks for your reply,
After thinking I want to use a second1-5 volt boost regulator attached a small high capicity battery of 3.7 volt. (like a galaxy sIII battery or something. So if i put the switch to on the extra battery should charge with 5v my phone battery. Or i could charge my phone directly from a high efficient solar cell with 5v.
I indeed have no idea how to prevent backfleeding. Do I need diodes / light emmitting diodes for this? And indeed the batteries you mentioned are way to big. I am planning to use an old battery from an other phone with the 5v boost regulator mentioned above. Further i don't understand where you see a computer in my scheme?
Your mod ( i think i it deserves that wonderfull name) with the 12v battery is a good idea. Very handy when going out without a charge point. I usually go to school and am probably able to put the large battery in there, but as i mentioned i want to keep it a "phone case".
My ultimate goal is to make the tiniest possible case for the htc one s ville with,
- a very small usb hub 4 port for 3 female ports and inside a micro sdhc memory for more storage.
- Add the charge ability, so i don't need to take the phone out of the case to charge
- be in otg mode and charging mode at the same time (i guess the hardest challenge)
optionary:
- Add a battery so when i get the actual phone out of the case the solar cell can keep providing power to the battery
- Add a solar cell
- make it actual work with multiple switches
Really appreciate your help!
Greetings,

I misunderstood "First about the charger, i will use my 5v 1amp charger (micro usb) or an usb male to male usb cable from my pc to charge" to mean you might have a computer available to charge. I guess you just meant the cable itself. Understood.
I'm not an electronics expert by any means but yes I believe diodes will prevent the current from flowing in an undesirable direction but they won't prevent one battery from draining another. Two batteries connected in parallel can drain each other and the diode will slow that but I don't think it will eliminate it. Might be able to mitigate the affect by opening one of your switches when the auxiliary battery is not in use. When two batteries are wired in parallel they are frequently connected to an isolator that has three terminals (for a two battery setup). Terminals one and two go to batteries one and two and terminal three goes to the system it's connected to. Batteries one and two never 'see' each other and therefore cannot affect or drain each other.
Not sure I have anything else that can really help... GOOD LUCK! And post pics and details if you build a working prototype.

Thanks again!
I'll try to order a couple extra diodes with low consuption, that plus the switches will hopefully do the job. I ordered yesterday the parts out of China, so it'll take a month to get it in my hands. Now I have more time to consider how it can be assembled all together, but if i get anything i will post it directly!! If it works i may try to make a tutorial for other people so they could also enjoy more ports on their phone!
Greetings

[Q] Wireless Charging + Daydream Bizarre Performance

This is my first experience with wireless charging so I'm probably missing the obvious here so please, anybody, point that out.
I'm newly using a wireless charger with my N5 & performance just doesn't make any sense to me. It's the Korean/Chinese knock-off of the N4 Orb which others on XDA have used successfully. On basic charging it does work but I can't make any sense of these numbers:
Charging I get roughly 10% per hour -- not great, but okay for bedside/overnight.
Charging with daydream on (Dashclock) on I get a loss of roughly 10% per hour! Yes, the phone keeps indicating it is charging in spite of this heavy drain.
But sometimes daydream just turns off & it returns to charging -- this seems to happen if I start off with the phone (mostly) charged. For the most part though, if I leave the phone on the charger overnight with daydream enabled I'll wake to a nearly empty battery.
As I said, these numbers make no sense to me at all. Part of the problem may be the power source for the orb - it's only 1A but even if it's underpowered I can't see the drop from +10% to -10% /hour.
Second part of my query -- does anyone know if it would be effective (and safe!) to feed 1.2A to the orb & maybe get faster charge. Or maybe that would be enough to keep up with the Daydream drain?
FWIW the the USB charger (1.2A) is very fast, I get better than 1% per minute -- unaffected by Daydream.

im using this and mine gets full charge within 1 and half hours
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app

10% per hour? Something's wrong. A wireless charger shouldn't take much longer than wired.
It's possible your adapter is a dud. Try using the 1.2a adapter, it'll be fine. If it still isn't faster, you might have a bad charger.
Also, if it came with a USB cable, don't use it. The wires are too small to carry a reasonable amount of current.

NotFromMountainView said:
This is my first experience with wireless charging so I'm probably missing the obvious here so please, anybody, point that out.
I'm newly using a wireless charger with my N5 & performance just doesn't make any sense to me. It's the Korean/Chinese knock-off of the N4 Orb which others on XDA have used successfully. On basic charging it does work but I can't make any sense of these numbers:
Charging I get roughly 10% per hour -- not great, but okay for bedside/overnight.
Charging with daydream on (Dashclock) on I get a loss of roughly 10% per hour! Yes, the phone keeps indicating it is charging in spite of this heavy drain.
But sometimes daydream just turns off & it returns to charging -- this seems to happen if I start off with the phone (mostly) charged. For the most part though, if I leave the phone on the charger overnight with daydream enabled I'll wake to a nearly empty battery.
As I said, these numbers make no sense to me at all. Part of the problem may be the power source for the orb - it's only 1A but even if it's underpowered I can't see the drop from +10% to -10% /hour.
Second part of my query -- does anyone know if it would be effective (and safe!) to feed 1.2A to the orb & maybe get faster charge. Or maybe that would be enough to keep up with the Daydream drain?
FWIW the the USB charger (1.2A) is very fast, I get better than 1% per minute -- unaffected by Daydream.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I'm using DashClock also and when it doesn't crash, my phone will charge just fine. Seems like about 3 hours total with daydream on, and about 2 hours with it off just regular charging. Here's my charger: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DOW1RD0/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Seems like you have a defective charger but it is a really weird situation.

Thanks guys, the jump to 1.2A made a world of difference! It still seems strange, but I guess there's a minimum threshold for the phone to properly charge. (I am really guessing!) Plugging the OEM charger into my qi orb I finally get a positive charge with daydream -- not fast, but good enough to wake with a charged phone! Without daydream I just got about 36% in the past hour.
A quick scan of eBay and the only 1.2A USB supplies I can find are refurbished LG & cost as much as the full qi orb! (from US with crazy shipping costs on these - I'm in Canada) But there are lots of 1.5A blocks, cheap (and free shipping from China). So... do you think it would be safe to try the 1.5A? According to Play the Google qi comes with a 1.8A supply but I have no idea how much the pad modulates the power or if that is all in the phone itself. It would be nice to have fast wireless charging, but with the dramatic jump with just the .2A increase I may be looking at something too powerful.
My concerns are (in order) 1. Don't want to fry the phone!
2. Don't want to burn down my apartment!
3. Would rather not trash the orb. The orb was inexpensive so I'm willing to gamble on point # 3.
Advice / assurances / suggestions? Please.
Mr. Sprinkles said:
Also, if it came with a USB cable, don't use it. The wires are too small to carry a reasonable amount of current.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume you mean USB out from PC since OEM charger is USB and orb power supply is USB as well. Point taken on PC charging though.

NotFromMountainView said:
Thanks guys, the jump to 1.2A made a world of difference! It still seems strange, but I guess there's a minimum threshold for the phone to properly charge. (I am really guessing!) Plugging the OEM charger into my qi orb I finally get a positive charge with daydream -- not fast, but good enough to wake with a charged phone! Without daydream I just got about 36% in the past hour.
A quick scan of eBay and the only 1.2A USB supplies I can find are refurbished LG & cost as much as the full qi orb! (from US with crazy shipping costs on these - I'm in Canada) But there are lots of 1.5A blocks, cheap (and free shipping from China). So... do you think it would be safe to try the 1.5A? According to Play the Google qi comes with a 1.8A supply but I have no idea how much the pad modulates the power or if that is all in the phone itself. It would be nice to have fast wireless charging, but with the dramatic jump with just the .2A increase I may be looking at something too powerful.
My concerns are (in order) 1. Don't want to fry the phone!
2. Don't want to burn down my apartment!
3. Would rather not trash the orb. The orb was inexpensive so I'm willing to gamble on point # 3.
Advice / assurances / suggestions? Please.
I assume you mean USB out from PC since OEM charger is USB and orb power supply is USB as well. Point taken on PC charging though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The official orb charger comes with a 1.8a brick. You should be fine.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk 4

NotFromMountainView said:
Thanks guys, the jump to 1.2A made a world of difference! [...] you mean USB out from PC since OEM charger is USB and orb power supply is USB as well. Point taken on PC charging though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean if your orb uses a USB cable and came with one, don't use the cable it came with. They're often very cheap and add a lot of resistance which will increase charge time.
It wasn't the step up to 1.2A that made a world of difference, it's using a quality adapter that made the difference. Your 1A adapter must have been faulty or grossly overrated. Sounds like it was putting out less than 500mA.
As for a higher amperage power supply somehow damaging things? Not possible. The circuitry in the wireless charger is only going to use what it needs, you could hook it up to a 50A power supply and it'll still draw around 1A. The N5 is also input current limited to 1.2A, so using a crazy high amperage adapter won't have much benefit anyway.
Still, not a bad idea to get a 1.5A - 2A adapter to compensate for whatever current the wireless charger itself uses. This is probably why the official one includes a 1.8A adapter.

Mr. Sprinkles said:
10% per hour? Something's wrong. A wireless charger shouldn't take much longer than wired.
It's possible your adapter is a dud. Try using the 1.2a adapter, it'll be fine. If it still isn't faster, you might have a bad charger.
Also, if it came with a USB cable, don't use it. The wires are too small to carry a reasonable amount of current.
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Mr. Sprinkles said:
I mean if your orb uses a USB cable and came with one, don't use the cable it came with. They're often very cheap and add a lot of resistance which will increase charge time.
It wasn't the step up to 1.2A that made a world of difference, it's using a quality adapter that made the difference. Your 1A adapter must have been faulty or grossly overrated. Sounds like it was putting out less than 500mA.
As for a higher amperage power supply somehow damaging things? Not possible. The circuitry in the wireless charger is only going to use what it needs, you could hook it up to a 50A power supply and it'll still draw around 1A. The N5 is also input current limited to 1.2A, so using a crazy high amperage adapter won't have much benefit anyway.
Still, not a bad idea to get a 1.5A - 2A adapter to compensate for whatever current the wireless charger itself uses. This is probably why the official one includes a 1.8A adapter.
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El Daddy & Mr. Sprinkles thanks, that's just the type of reassurance I needed!

just use the 2,1A amazon kindle charger with your orb... its cheap, safe and wont fry your phone
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk

Mr. Sprinkles said:
I mean if your orb uses a USB cable and came with one, don't use the cable it came with. They're often very cheap and add a lot of resistance which will increase charge time.
It wasn't the step up to 1.2A that made a world of difference, it's using a quality adapter that made the difference. Your 1A adapter must have been faulty or grossly overrated. Sounds like it was putting out less than 500mA.
As for a higher amperage power supply somehow damaging things? Not possible. The circuitry in the wireless charger is only going to use what it needs, you could hook it up to a 50A power supply and it'll still draw around 1A. The N5 is also input current limited to 1.2A, so using a crazy high amperage adapter won't have much benefit anyway.
Still, not a bad idea to get a 1.5A - 2A adapter to compensate for whatever current the wireless charger itself uses. This is probably why the official one includes a 1.8A adapter.
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Click to collapse
So from what I heard wireless charging, like a pogo plug can charge at a higher rate than the micro USB port in some devices (I've heard pogo plug can go up to 2.5A where the micro USB in that device is limited to 1.8A). So I'm wondering as these qi chargers get better, will this also be true. Mine is a 1A but seems like it charges around .8A so it's maxed out. I guess this also raises the question as to how fast is good for a battery also.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

1A charger for Gear S2 Classic

Gear S2 classic comes with 0.7A charger. Wondering I can use iPhone charger which has output 5V 1A?

I used my Note5 Samsung faster charger without issue.

Throwing juice at the battery faster than it was intended to will shorten its life. Not a big deal for a device with a removable battery but I wouldn't want to do it with my S2. Especially since it already charges in about an hour.

Oops I tend to use my S6 fast charger

A0425A said:
Throwing juice at the battery faster than it was intended to will shorten its life. Not a big deal for a device with a removable battery but I wouldn't want to do it with my S2. Especially since it already charges in about an hour.
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DO you really think the output of the charger determines charging current?

jacobgong said:
DO you really think the output of the charger determines charging current?
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No. Your probably right in this case and it wouldn't. I'm guessing that the charging dock would only draw what it needs. Wireless charging might be a different story. I'd have to read up on it. My comment centered mostly around heat and excess heat created during a faster than normal charge and the long term affects.

A0425A said:
No. Your probably right in this case and it wouldn't. I'm guessing that the charging dock would only draw what it needs. Wireless charging might be a different story. I'd have to read up on it. My comment centered mostly around heat and excess heat created during a faster than normal charge and the long term affects.
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I think it would make the most sense that wireless charging has at least, all the current regulator circuits wired charging has.

I'm using my old Note 2's charger (2.1A) without any issues. Charging circuit inside watch probably limits it to 0.5A anyway.
Sent from my SM-N910T using XDA Free mobile app

I was also wondering about taking the chargerfrommy Note 4 to charge the watch. It would be more comfortable to not always take everything with you and to decimize it to a minimum.
In general you can provide a 5 amps charger for a device that will take 1 amp without a problem because as already explained, the device will draw that amount of current, that it can take. Also with inductive charging there shouldn't be any difference.
You can test how your watch will react to another charger and if you find it getting very hot compared to the genuine charger and find any other incompatibilities, you should stop the charging process but otherwise i can't see any problems.