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Charge problem

I have a problem with charging my HTC Kaiser.
When connected to the PC it charges the battery without any problems.
But when connected to the 220volt or 12/24volt, the PDA stops charging after 10 minutes.
With the OEM ROM from Kaiser I had no problems, but now I am running Dutty's DualTouchFlo No.2
Anyone any ideas?

should it be at 115 volts?

You really need to tell us what country you live in.

Shadow7789 said:
You really need to tell us what country you live in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am living in the Netherlands where there is 220/240 volts

A couple known issues. See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=355232
My issue originally presented like yours. It was a result of a slightly broken USB port. Look for bowing or anything other than an arrow straight usb port pin block. May be slightly lower on the right side. Also, if you use a tool like sk tools you can see what the power is doing. My charge light would temporarily come on as yours does, but sk tools actualy reported a higher rate of discharge. This issue requires a return, at least for me it did.

MartinKoppen said:
I have a problem with charging my HTC Kaiser.
When connected to the PC it charges the battery without any problems.
But when connected to the 220volt or 12/24volt, the PDA stops charging after 10 minutes.
With the OEM ROM from Kaiser I had no problems, but now I am running Dutty's DualTouchFlo No.2
Anyone any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My suggestion:
Backup data
Reflash to stock
Return to sender
lol

GSLEON3 said:
A couple known issues. See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=355232
My issue originally presented like yours. It was a result of a slightly broken USB port. Look for bowing or anything other than an arrow straight usb port pin block. May be slightly lower on the right side. Also, if you use a tool like sk tools you can see what the power is doing. My charge light would temporarily come on as yours does, but sk tools actualy reported a higher rate of discharge. This issue requires a return, at least for me it did.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey,
do you know where I can find an technical overview of the five pins with the USB charge port?

MartinKoppen said:
Hey,
do you know where I can find an technical overview of the five pins with the USB charge port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are actually 11 pins. Here is the chart:
If you click the image, you'll see a bigger pic.

Take a look at this thread.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=354760
Your problem sounds similar. If your USB port is defective, it would not charge at all, no matter where it is connected.
I have found problems using AC USB chargers. Many will not work with PDA phones.

ttt123 said:
Take a look at this thread.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=354760
Your problem sounds similar. If your USB port is defective, it would not charge at all, no matter where it is connected.
I have found problems using AC USB chargers. Many will not work with PDA phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's just wrong. There are multiple pins. See the chart guy. If it's broke on the right side, you may only lose the 5V charge & maybe left audio. Remember this is USB & there is more than just a single connection you're dealing with. Also, I know for a fact that this is what caused mine because I enclosed a letter with my device & the Tech at HTC Repair called me & confirmed.

The pinout on the Kaiser:
- only pins A, B, C, D, E are used for the USB plug.
- take a look at the USB male plug. There are only 5 pins.
- only pins A=GND and E=+5V are used for charging. (I did some research into this when I was converting a camera charger to a USB charger, by adding a female USB plug)
These are the same charge connections that are used, whether you plug it into your PC, or into an AC charger. If the Kaiser charges normally when connected to the PC, and does not fully charge when connected to an AC USB charger, then it is the charger that is the problem, not the Kaiser.
I have experienced the same symptoms on some chargers, and not on others, on both the Hermes, and the Kaiser. I have tried different chargers, and verified that certain chargers will charge the Kaiser, and others will not.
So, GSLEON3, your symptom may be accurate for your phone, in that a problem on the right side of the USB plug may have affected pin E, and caused a charge problem. However, that would have stopped charging from any source, and not just from a USB/car charger.
My opinion is based upon my own experience. I have about 10 different AC USB chargers. Cheap ones and proper ones, up to 3A output. None of them would charge the Kaiser properly. The iPod one would. I can switch back and forth, and get the exact same symptoms described in this post.
If you had the same symptoms as in this post (could charge OK from the PC, but not from other sources), and HTC service told you that it was a defective USB plug, then I would say that they are just taking the easy way out, and telling you something without really knowing what the problem was. This is not an uncommon thing for service groups to do. As somebody who comes from a service background (though not on consumer electronics), I have seen this happen too often, hearing an explanation from the service department that I knew was wrong.
My analysis/opinion is easily proven right or wrong. Just try it on another charger that is known to work. An iPod charger, Blackberry charger, etc. If it proves out, then you have an answer. If it does not, then there must be another reason.
It's not very good troubleshooting to exclude options without trying them. Try them all, and see which one fits.

mOrE URGENT HELP WATED - Have I fried my Nexus One?

Hi guys,
I stupidly plugged my Nexus One USB cable into a higher voltage charger in my car, about 8v-10v I think, and I could immediately smell burning. I unplugged it straight away and the phone died. The result was;
1. I could no longer charge it off the wall charger or computer USB charger, just got zero response, no led's etc.. seemed as though the phone was totally gone.
2. Then I took the battery out and charged it in my external battery charger. When I put the battery back in the phone it turned on and worked perfectly!!! although the battery didn't seem to last as long.
3. When it was powered on an working, it wouldn't pick up the USB connection to my PC. Did nothing.
So.... it seems as though the USB port is obviously not working. Would this be the extent of the damage or would it be something more serious in the phone?
Would the official Google dock allow me to charge the phone and connect it to my computer given that it uses the 3 pin method and not the USB?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Morgan

Ahhhh the smell of a resistor going. And within a circuit when one major component goes it will drag some others with it. Which could explain short battery life. Back up your stuff. And look into your options to replace device. Unless you have extencesive knowlege on micro surface mounted printed circuit board components and measureing values.
good day.

I don't have any knowledge of circuit boards so is there any other options to repairing this device? It is basically brand new!
Is there any chance that a dock would allow me to charge it?
If not, can I replace the main board? I disassembled it yesterday and know how to change it out.

spartain27 said:
Is there any chance that a dock would allow me to charge it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just guessing, but no. The cooked components for the charging circuit would also be in parallel to the dock port.
spartain27 said:
If not, can I replace the main board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can find someone to sell it to you. yes
spartain27 said:
I disassembled it yesterday and know how to change it out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There goes any hope for a warranty claim.
good day

[Q] Charge + USB Connectivity Simultaneously

(Yes I mention android development but this is regarding a 'general' topic)
As an android app developer, it's pretty much mandatory that I have my devices plugged into the computer for ADB. However, with wifi / bluetooth / GPS / screen brightness turned on or cranked up, I also need to have the device plugged into something that provides more than the measly 500mA that the computer's USB port can provide. From what I've been able to gather, the USB standard requires that USB hubs and ports cannot supply more than 500mA to a connected device. However, I suspect that there are manufacturers out there that are aware of the need for simultaneous charging + connectivity and have made special cables specifically for this (What I'm thinking of is a Y usb cable where one end plugs into the device, one plugs into the computer and only uses the data wires, and the other plugs into the charger which feeds and charges the device.) Do any of you know if something like this exists and where I can find one? I've definitely tried to Google for it but the phrases I'm using are long and not producing the right results. I obviously don't know the correct term(s) to search for.
If I knew a bit more about circuitry in general and the USB standard specifically, I could probably solder together a cable like this with a couple diodes to prevent the charger from zapping the motherboard's USB, or perhaps, as mentioned, not connect the power wires at all. I do have 6-8 spare cables laying around but I'd rather not start chopping and black-taping unless I get some confirmation Plus I only have one female end to mangle, so... yeah ;p
My idea for the splice & solder (in case no commercially available alternative exists):
Code:
computer - 2 data -----\
|----------------- device
charger - 2 power -----/

Most chargers and phones have some kind of regulator circuit built-in anyway, at least that's the impression I'm under. Generally if you crack open a charger there are only two cables black and red (+/-) which makes things considerably easier but that's assuming you have a charger that's just for charging and not one that requires you already have a usb cable to plug into it (like some that come with phones now). Standard wiring color schemes applied to all the cables I've cut open and spliced so as long as you go black/black red/red from the charger and leave the other wires untouched you should be ok. You'll know if something's wrong quickly because your phone will get quite a bit hotter than normal and do so faster, and you shouldn't need to add any components as they're already in the charger circuit (diodes to prevent current flow-back, resistors and the transformer to convert to dc, capacitors to smooth the current, etc). Just use common sense when working with this, don't solder until you test, don't splice wires together that don't seem right, use a multimeter to make sure you're getting the proper wires, don't work on anything while it's live unless you're properly insulated and even then not if you can help it, all that jazz.

Yeah, my biggest concern would be that I was told that some USB devices negotiate current requirements with the motherboard, which I'd assume goes over the two data wires, but I remember landline phones have 2 wires but both power and data flow over it, so I wasn't completely confident that the two power wires weren't passing data as well. If I run the 2 data to the computer and the 2 power to the charger, and it turns out that the negotiation requires all 4 wires be connected from the device to the computer, then I've just ruined two good cables.
I just am not so super confident in my logic and theorizing that I'd want to risk frying circuitry If I can nab a commercially available accessory that does this for $30 it's a lot less than having to buy another $700 device and a new $200 motherboard (at the least)

I don't think you really have to worry, but I wouldn't replace the charger wires, I'd connect the wires from the charger to the power lines inside the usb cable that way even when the charger isn't plugged in the phone is still getting some power and it'd basically be hooking them up in parallel when the usb and charger are plugged in. You could always go buy a $20/$30 cheapo phone that connects through microusb-to-usb and test the cable on that through a USB hub. that way if something goes wrong you're only losing a cheapo phone and a usb hub, but honestly things shouldn't fry as long as you get the wiring right and don't try to do something like black to red because then you're feeding power from the charger back into the usb socket which is where things get ugly.

I think i've found something on the interwebs, that will actually save you the wire-splicing and soldering
It is actually just what you described, it uses 2 USB ports in order to provide 1000mA to a device.
dealextreme.com/p/cable-style-dual-power-1000ma-usb-2-0-4-port-hub-13526
Sorry for the inconvience with the url, atm i'm not yet allowed to post links directly... :/

Xadro said:
I think i've found something on the interwebs, that will actually save you the wire-splicing and soldering
It is actually just what you described, it uses 2 USB ports in order to provide 1000mA to a device.
dealextreme.com/p/cable-style-dual-power-1000ma-usb-2-0-4-port-hub-13526
Sorry for the inconvience with the url, atm i'm not yet allowed to post links directly... :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know that some of the smaller usb external drives have a cable that has 2 "type-a" connectorsto allow data connection/enough power for the drive. I have not seen these in micro-usb form, only mini-usb. SO, I do not see why it would not work.

papabear said:
I know that some of the smaller usb external drives have a cable that has 2 "type-a" connectorsto allow data connection/enough power for the drive. I have not seen these in micro-usb form, only mini-usb. SO, I do not see why it would not work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed, USB offers about 2.5v of charge aswell as data connectivity of course, I don't understand why it wouldn't work... I can tell you from experence through that it does take about 40% longer, and will suck the life out of a laptop if you are using it on battery mode.

The reason I was thinking about cutting the power wires from the computer entirely is I don't know what dumping 1-2 amps into the computer's USB port is going to do ;p
Edit: Looks like newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817707145&cm_re=2a_output_usb-_-17-707-145-_-Product should do what I'm interested in, if the details are legitimate. Who knew finding a hub with full details would be so hard? ><

LycaonX said:
The reason I was thinking about cutting the power wires from the computer entirely is I don't know what dumping 1-2 amps into the computer's USB port is going to do ;p
Edit: Looks like newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817707145&cm_re=2a_output_usb-_-17-707-145-_-Product should do what I'm interested in, if the details are legitimate. Who knew finding a hub with full details would be so hard? ><
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
just as papabear already said, there are also external hdd, that use this kind of wire.. so it should be no problem. If the ports arent't capable of delivering that power (but as far as i know they are designed for 500mA each), simply you will not get the the full 1 A.
And i must agree, hardware vendors rarely add detailed power info -.-

Triumph won't charge

I got my Triumph and it will not charge no matter where I have plugged it in or fiddled with the charger. It does not matter whether it is on or off. I have been using the wall charger that's included and I have tried USB through my computer. Before I go to the hassle of sending my triumph back I wanted to see if there is a solution. Thanks in advance.

The first one I got did this sometimes as well. I took it back and swapped it.

Jumpstart
My triumph would not even turn on strait out of the box. I had to "Jumpstart" the battery, here is a link on how to do it. thejosea.com/2011/02/jump-start-your-droid-when-no-wall.html (Sorry i cant post links yet, gonna have to copy paste)
You pretty much have to charge the battery by its self outside of the phone. Once you do this let it sit charging for about 20 minutes then try to charge it through the phone.
You should only have to do this once.
It seems like the batteries are not being shipped charged and they run "Dry".

You MIGHT want to try a different USB cable.
I'm using my Nook Color adapter(1A) and a generic USB cord which works fine, however one time I accidentally used my Optimus V cable and it would NOT charge while the MT was up and running, however it WOULD charge IF I powered down the MT...
I haven't even tried the cable that came with MT yet... nor have I tried charging via a USB port on my nb, but I imagine that would be REALLY sssslllloooowwwww....

I exchanged my device for a new one, and with my new phone, when plugged in, the lock screen no longer shows "Chargin" with the %. Any ideas how to bring it back?

It only shows that if you're on an AC charge. If you're on USB it won't.

I've tried on 2 different AC chargers and it still doesn't display

Same cord? The AC pins have to be shorted or it won't go into AC charge mode. I have a couple of USB cords that work fine for connections to the computer but will not go into AC mode (the USB cords that come with the Optimus are known for doing this on other phones, incidentally....)
It'll charge without AC mode being "engaged" but at the 500ma rate instead of the 1A rate, so it will take a lot longer.

the answer is simple.....due to crappy crappy design of micro usb the charge port actually comes un-soldered from the board and obviously it no longer will charge nor will usb work!!! now before you ramble on with how do i know i wondered why mine wouldn't worked i opened the phone and notice the micro usb pins were not attached anymore....i have sent this in to Motorola which gives you a 2 year warranty instead of virgin mobiles crap $5 a month insurence then you still have to pay like $100 to get a new phone!!! so i will post how everything goes so far i know the repair center is in McAllen TX and they give you a free 2day shipping label valued at $100 to send in the phone!

You might want to try plugging it into a wall (not pc) and leave it for 20 minutes. Mine ran completely dry one time and it wouldn't display nothing until it charged for a while. If you've already tried this then definitely take it back.

nickmcnamara said:
the answer is simple.....due to crappy crappy design of micro usb the charge port actually comes un-soldered from the board and obviously it no longer will charge nor will usb work!!! now before you ramble on with how do i know i wondered why mine wouldn't worked i opened the phone and notice the micro usb pins were not attached anymore....i have sent this in to Motorola which gives you a 2 year warranty instead of virgin mobiles crap $5 a month insurence then you still have to pay like $100 to get a new phone!!! so i will post how everything goes so far i know the repair center is in McAllen TX and they give you a free 2day shipping label valued at $100 to send in the phone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
*update* They are fixing my phone now and i should get it in 5-7 business days no problems they received the phone and started the repair

I had the same problem but different solution.
I too let my phone completely discharge to find that it would not indicate that it was charging or even power on with or without the battery being present, but I "jumped started" my phone. This is a weird technical solution that went as followed in its entirety, meaning, some of these steps might be pointless or useless but I did them and I now have a working resurrected MT in my hands that is charging. This solution is assuming that there is no problem with the micro USB soldering on the main board.
"Jump Starting"
1) Remove the back casing and your MT battery and place both to the side, but keep the battery close by for polarity reference.
2) Have another battery of the same 3.7v that is charged (disregarding mAh).
3) Now here is the fun part and pay CLOSE ATTENTION to POLARITY!!!
-Get two spare wires, preferably of different colors so you can tell the [+] from the [-].
-With the spare 3.7v battery you have, in what ever way you can, connect your spare wires to it, paying close attention to polarity.
-Now that you have your spare battery wired, CORRECTLY connect the wires to the inside connectors of your MT what ever way you can, paying close attention to polarity.
Being [+] connected to [+] and [-] connected to[-]
4) Boot your phone until you know you are at the home/lock screen. Then remove the wires from the MT battery connectors.
5) Use this same battery and connect it to your battery for about 30-60 seconds, paying close attention to polarity. This will give the battery some juice for the system to recognize.
6) Place the battery back in the phone without attempting to turn it on and return the back case to the closed position.
7) Now connect your MT to a powered micro USB cable and see if the red indicator charging light turns on.
-If so then great!
-If not then you may have some other problems
-If yes and no, as in the cable has to set a certain way for it to charge then just keep on reading for that fix as well.
"Loose Connection Fix"
This is how I fixed my loose micro USB cable and it worked for me, but I do not have soldering problems on my main board of my MT so proceed if you think this will help.
1) Your micro USB male side of the cable that plugs into your MT should look something like this (excuse the crude drawing of letters)
{the dots are empty space}
____________
\................... /
\UUUUUU/
2) Get a pair of needle nose pliers and SLIGHTLY pinch/squeeze the center of the male port closed so it looks like this
____...... ____
\.... \...... /.... /
\UUUUUU/
Except not that extremely bent inward, but you get the idea.
This will force the male tongue in the MT charging port to be forced onto the pins inside the micro USB cable for a better connection and thus fixing the loose connection problem
I hope this helps someone, it helped me save my $300 paper weight from actually being a paper weight.

Froxen said:
I too let my phone completely discharge to find that it would not indicate that it was charging or even power on with or without the battery being present, but I "jumped started" my phone. This is a weird technical solution that went as followed in its entirety, meaning, some of these steps might be pointless or useless but I did them and I now have a working resurrected MT in my hands that is charging. This solution is assuming that there is no problem with the micro USB soldering on the main board.
"Jump Starting"
1) Remove the back casing and your MT battery and place both to the side, but keep the battery close by for polarity reference.
2) Have another battery of the same 3.7v that is charged (disregarding mAh).
3) Now here is the fun part and pay CLOSE ATTENTION to POLARITY!!!
-Get two spare wires, preferably of different colors so you can tell the [+] from the [-].
-With the spare 3.7v battery you have, in what ever way you can, connect your spare wires to it, paying close attention to polarity.
-Now that you have your spare battery wired, CORRECTLY connect the wires to the inside connectors of your MT what ever way you can, paying close attention to polarity.
Being [+] connected to [+] and [-] connected to[-]
4) Boot your phone until you know you are at the home/lock screen. Then remove the wires from the MT battery connectors.
5) Use this same battery and connect it to your battery for about 30-60 seconds, paying close attention to polarity. This will give the battery some juice for the system to recognize.
6) Place the battery back in the phone without attempting to turn it on and return the back case to the closed position.
7) Now connect your MT to a powered micro USB cable and see if the red indicator charging light turns on.
-If so then great!
-If not then you may have some other problems
-If yes and no, as in the cable has to set a certain way for it to charge then just keep on reading for that fix as well.
"Loose Connection Fix"
This is how I fixed my loose micro USB cable and it worked for me, but I do not have soldering problems on my main board of my MT so proceed if you think this will help.
1) Your micro USB male side of the cable that plugs into your MT should look something like this (excuse the crude drawing of letters)
{the dots are empty space}
____________
\................... /
\UUUUUU/
2) Get a pair of needle nose pliers and SLIGHTLY pinch/squeeze the center of the male port closed so it looks like this
____...... ____
\.... \...... /.... /
\UUUUUU/
Except not that extremely bent inward, but you get the idea.
This will force the male tongue in the MT charging port to be forced onto the pins inside the micro USB cable for a better connection and thus fixing the loose connection problem
I hope this helps someone, it helped me save my $300 paper weight from actually being a paper weight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I let my battery die down and also did a battery memory reset, then the phone acted bricked.
Then I tried this to revive and it worked!
Thanks for the help here I did this but when I connected the batter to the phone nothing happened. I connected battery to battery let sit for about 90 sec put it in phone and plugged in and the red light is now on!
Thanks!

Well,
add my phone to the list. It started about 2 weeks ago when after completing charge, instead of maintaining trickle charge it just let battery drain. I woke up couple of times in the morning finding the phone's battery on it's last legs. Now it simply refuses to charge by anything but my car charger. Lucky for me (and I thought I would never say it in my life) I have a long commute to work and it allows me to recharge the phone while I enjoy typical traffic delights.
I am going to call Motorola and discuss my options with them. I hate doing this as my phone is long since rooted and running CM7, so I will probably have to revert to factory settings before sending it off and if they decide to exchange I would be running a chance of receiving one with bad GPS.

yes i've had this problem to i have to charge my phone on a Samsung charger no motorola charger will work on my phone.

Sorry, I'm somewhat new here.
I have a Motorola Triumph and it just stopped working. The general idea is that the Micro-USB port was shoved up into the device?
How do you go about contacting Motorola about sending it back to be repaired?

I have delt with this problem SO MUCH, have you tried my battery charging fix yet ? I have the link posted in this section called battery charging fix, Hope this helps you it sucks when your phone won't charge.

Well the problem is that it won't even turn on. I think the battery has some kind of charge but when I hit the power button, it vibrates like it's booting up then stays off.
I don't know that much about phones, but from what I can gather off Google and the various threads on XDA (Great site, by the way!) the general consensus is that it's the micro-usb port.
Granted, I may be wrong, which is a very real possibility. Heh.

Well 2 things, have you replaced your recovery with the clockwork recovery image ? If so try any means nessary to get into recovery, My old Triumph would NOT charge with any motorola charger, I belive this is a defect with the triumph. You might try a powermat of some kind to get enough power to get to recovery & do what my guide says to fix this most pain in the ass problem, Or get another battery & follow the guide. It's worth a shot anyway. otherwise you've got two options replace it or open it up, if you're gonna open it up then get a super fine sautering tip or file one down to needle size, this is how I do precision sautering on circut boards.

No, I had downloaded Clockwork with the intention of installing a 2.3 rom on it, but never got around to it. As for the charger, my Triumph charges with any micro-USB, from my old LG and Samsung chargers to the Motorola charger that came with it. It acts weird though when I plug it into a computer, saying it is connected to a computer, then that it's not, then that it is, then that it's not, repeatedly. I usually just end up turning it off so it won't do that.
I find it weird, though, that now when I try to charge it, the charging light up where the speaker is will not come on, as if it isn't charging. (And I don't think it is charging.)
I've also tried putting it into the "recovery mode". (Like I say, not too knowledgeable about phones yet. Learning experience. ) When I boot it up (into "recovery mode" or "regular" (?) mode) it just vibrates like it should then does nothing.
Edit: It finally did boot into the "recovery mode", but the touch button things at the bottom (menu, home, back, and search) don't do anything, and I cannot get into the menu to do a factory reset.
I don't think it's the battery now? I am more confused then I was when I started, and appreciate any and all help!

Galaxy 10.1 n8010 won't charge. Tried all solutions.

So I bought a cheap cable from eBay that converts microusb to the proprietary Galaxy connector on this device. Tried to charge the device but it entered a bootloop. Unplugged the cable and tried charging with the stock cable and left it overnight. Woke up and the device was completely dead.
Wouldn't boot at all.
Tore it open, unplugged the battery and plugged it back in. It booted! BUT the battery was critical and it shut off immediately. Tried charging again, no dice.
So I unplugged the battery and applied 4v to get some charge into it. Got the battery up to about 3.6V, booted again and it showed 3%. So in the time I had with the device turned on I tried both cables again but neither would charge the device. I used a multimeter to test the stock cable and it was all good, I even did a beep test between the 4 USB pins in the stock cable and the places they're wired up to inside the note and everything was fine so it's most likely not the cable.
Anyway the 3% is long gone now and I can't boot or charge. The device and battery are fine and definitely working, it just won't charge through USB no matter what. I've tried different power points, different adapters including stock and normal usb ports.
I've also cleaned both the plug and the jack with a toothbrush.
Could it be that the internal charging circuitry got fried when I tried the dodgy cable? If so, is there any way to fix/bypass this?
I'm at a complete loss so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Nas.

I would not recommend to charge battery directly outside the device or even remove the battery at all.
First you gotta make sure your cables are capable of charge other galaxy devices if a friend has Tab 7 or Tab 10.1 or other note 10.1 or another try your cables to see if they really work.
Because it may just be your cable, remember batteries have their own circuits boards of sort and batteries are sometimes picky on how they are charge especially OEM batteries that are not suppose to ever be out of the device unless are change for a new one in a repair.
So first of all cable check it a must, again is not as simple as check if all the pins works as this is not a simple USB (Universal Serial Bus) port is a proprietary port and cable, check the port in the tablet too.
As well it may be just a defective battery or worst case even a board problem.

Unfortunately I have no other device to test it with. I might just buy another cable and see how I go.
I know about the circuits on the battery, but I always thought they were just there as a safety measure due to the potentially volatile nature of Li-Ion when it drops below a certain voltage. I'll probably take your advice and stay away from charging it externally, I only did it once to see if the tab died or it was just a dead battery. The voltage never dropped low enough to trigger the circuit to 'kill' it, evidenced by the fact that I could get it back up to 3% just applying a constant voltage.
I'm guessing you've hit it on the head with the last sentence, might be a board problem which would be quite sad. Silly reason for a great device to die.
Thanks a lot for the reply, I'll update this thread once I try an alternative cable for future reference.

Ok, So to update:
I've bought and tested 3 separate cables, all provide 4.99V inside the device, but none of this makes it to the battery so I'm fairly certain it's the charging IC that's dead.
I bought a new battery that was charged to 40% so I was able to flash the device to see if it was maybe the custom kernel messing something up. Flashed to stock via Odin, still not charging.
From what I've read, I need a cell balancing circuit (since the battery is 2-cell Li-Ion) and a charging IC. I've found a suitable IC for fairly cheap, but I'm not sure if the balancing circuit is necessary. The battery already has one of these inside, but I'm not sure if this is just for Voltage/Current protection or if it also balances.
MP24AG: http://eng.it-m.co.kr/cnt/prod/tep_5l/MP24AG.pdf
If anyone knows I'd be very grateful.